Toyota Corolla Maintenance and Repair

c2cp

I have a 2001 corolla s and had the tension pulley go bad it would rattle when in gear during certain rpm ranges so I bought a new pulley with the assembly from toyota and within a year it also went bad. I know there has been alot of problems with the pulleys from toyota. I am going to try a aftermarket part. my question is the problem in the assembly or the pulley? I would hate to have to replace the whole assembly since it costs so much. If anybody knows please let me know.
thanks

terceltom

I know on my 2001 LE the car was recalled shortly after I purchased it for the tensioner. They put a new one on and haven't had a problem. Of course I didn't have a problem before it was recalled either.

ed2004corolla

hello,

New to the site.... Have a 2004 corolla(54,000 miles) had the squeaking belt- tensioner problem and replaced this(what fun doing this thanks toyota) and it has helped!!! put on a dayco ribbed v belt aswell.. Now I have always had this crazy grinding bearing noise when it is cold out.... Goes away after the car warms up....??????

Was thinking of squirting wd40 at the alternator bearing then the water pump so see if this goes away..... Has to be below 30 for it to happen thou....real strange Sounds like it is low in the engine.. I cant tell where its from...

Please let me know if anyone has had this problem or know s what to do or check for

ed2004corolla

Have a 2004 corolla(54,000 miles) had the squeaking sound and replaced the belt- tensioner myself... put on a dayco ribbed v belt aswell now that problems is gone...Use to hate that sound....Now I have always had this crazy grinding bearing noise when it is real cold out.... Goes away after the car warms up....??????Not a squeaking sound more of a hummm o/ grind bearing noise... Does not do this all the time..... Randomly will do this when it is under 30 outside...or freezing temps..

Dont seem to know what to do or check.... This started at about 10,000 miles never happens in the summer.... only all winter long.... Anyone with ideas guessing its a bearing in the waterpump, alternator or something.... seems low on the front engine when it happens cant seem to pin point it thou..... ????????? dry timing chain???? bearing in there?????

JDM5LugHatch

The tensioner problem seems to be very common on the Corolla's from what I have heard. My cousin-in-law went ahead and had it replaced at the Toyota dealership he works at under a goodwill warranty. That was 1 year ago and it has gone bad again. So now I have to replace it again. As for the grinding noise it seems to be the starter. Starters usually grind upon startup when cold because the solenoid sticks. This obviously isn't a problem during the warmer months. However, this sticking issue is going to take it's toll on the starter eventually.

joselito

I had the same problem it was usually the rear more often than the front. I removed the rear drums and clean off all the brake dust and lightly sanded the shoes and drums reinstalled them adjusted them for proper operation and it stopped the same with the front.

joselito

hey Andy try the ignition module that goes u usually wont get a spark

webby2

My check engine light came on today and started jerking on my way to work. Worried I stopped by a repair shop on my way to work to see what the issue was. They told me it was a P2716 solenoid d issue, and that my car was still under warranty so to take it to the dealership. They said they would go ahead and reset it for me and give me the diagnostics so I didn't have to pay a diagnostics fee twice. I called a dealership and they won't touch my car until the check engine light comes back on since they need to pull the code on their own diagnostic system for warranty issues. The told me basically to keep driving it and eventually the light would probably comem back on.

My warranty is up in August. Does anybody know when this type of code will set an engine light again? Is the dealership just giving me the run around? I'm concerned my warranty is going to expire and then the light will come back on.

Any thoughts would be appreciated

arussell2

arussell2

I have a 2005 Corolla. It had the Check Engine Light on ever since i bought it. When it was under warranty, the dealer replaced the O2 sensor thee times and the check engine light kept coming on. After, the warranty (36,000mi), the dealer told me to take a hike. Now the diagnostics is saying the main computer is bad which is warranteed until 80K miles. I have 83K miles and Toyota is saying "too bad". Doea anyone have any thoughts? Thanks.

terceltom

I would imagine that the light will come on again soon if this problem persists. I might also ask for a notataion to be put in writing that you did bring the car into the dealer for this problem before your warranty actually does expire should the light come again after the warranty does expire..

vtcycle

hi all,
just wondering if anyone here has adjusted the valve clearances on their Corrolla. I do my motorcycles easy enough, but have not attempted any work on the Toyota yet.
Is it difficult?
ANY recommendations for a good manual?
thanks in advance.
peace,
michel

terceltom

Are you experiencing a problem that would necessitate valve adjustments?

stevel

According to the manual valve "adjustment" involves pulling the camshaft(s) and replacing out of adjustment lifters with new lifters of appropriate thickness - seems if this was ever required you might just as well pull the heads and get valve guides, cam bearings etc...

dave594

I have a 2002 with almost 100k miles. I hear valve clatter when I start the car up on cold mornings (40 degrees and below) but it goes away once the engine warms up. Should this be a concern and to have the valves adjusted?

Mr_Shiftright

If it goes away in 2-3 minutes I wouldn't worry about it.

terceltom

The ticking noise you are hearing during cold morning start ups, especially in winter temps, even 45 degree weather with a heavier weight oil, often results in brief valve clatter noise during initial start up. Generally speaking, valves and overhead camshafts are the last parts of an engine to receive lubrication. The thicker the oil, the longer it takes to coat the metal lobes on cam and lifters. When lifters do not have a film of oil, you get metal to metal contact. Thus if you are using heavier oil in winter time, you will hear the lifters. Try switching to a 5w30 or ow20 if you are not already. Oil will get up to the valve train much more rapidly and keep valves quiet. This noise generally is not a harmful situation as long as it goes away, it's mostly just annoying.

nr08corolla

Hello,

just bought a 08 corolla. the brake fluid light is on all the time. the car drives fine. no problems at all. the car passed maryland inspection recently and the mechanic did not comment on the light. the car has about 20,000 miles on it

i checked the brake fluid and there is plenty of brake fluid.

What should be done about the light? does it indicate routine maintenance (oil/engine..)

Many thanks in advance for your help

terceltom

If the brake warning light comes on it could be indicating that the fluid level in the master cylinder is dangerously low (due to a leak somewhere in the brake system). This light could also be indicating contaminated brake fluid. Adding brake fluid to the master cylinder reservoir may temporarily solve the problem. But if there's a leak, the new fluid will soon be lost and the warning light will come back on. Brake fluid leaks are serious because they may cause the brakes to fail! So avoid driving the vehicle until the system can be inspected to determine what's wrong. Leaks can occur in brake hoses, brake lines, disc brake calipers, drum brake wheel cylinders or the master cylinder itself. Wet spots at hose or line connections would indicate a leak that needs to be fixed. Leaking brake fluid can also contaminate the brake linings, causing them to slip or grab. There is a sensor in the brake fluid reservoir that could be failing that could also cause your warning light to come on. Regardless, this should be brought to the attention of your auto mechanic.

nr08corolla

Many many thanks for the reply! I will take the car to a mechanic rightaway!

grandtotal

I suggest you take it to a Toyota dealer. Sounds like a warranty issue to me.

alex24

Try disconnecting the positive battery cable for a for a minute, or your emergency brake handle/peddle, not released all the way will keep the light on, I had some problem with a toyota pick up, tryed everything, nothing worked, So I unpluged a single wire that plugs onto the master brake cylinder, that is the sender that makes the light come on also. and that did the trick.

terceltom

Over riding a safety mechanism that is designed to protect you and your vehicle and could possibly save your life is highly discouraged. A brake warning light on a vehicle is the most important indicator on a vehicle and should not be taken lightly. A new car owner with a vehicle still under warranty would be better advised to have a Toyota Dealer solve the issue at no cost to the owner.

debjeff

On my 2007 Corolla, when I pull up to a traffic light or stop sign, the car vibrates. I was told by the dealer, that there is nothing mechanically wrong with the car. I took the car to a shop and they feel that the vibration is normal, that the new cars' computer will self adjust for idling. With the old cars you could manually set the idle. Is this all true info. The computer was replaced in the car approx. 1 1/2 years ago. Does this mean the computer is going bad?

Thanks for your help.

terceltom

I'm sorry I can't be of any help regarding your idling problem as I can't verify what they are telling you is correct. It seems like your computer was already replaced when your car was almost brand new. What was your problem back then? I'm wondering what it would cost to replace a computer in a Corolla. Do you know what it would have cost had your car not been under warranty?

debjeff

The computer was replaced after the check engine light came on. After the car was used earlier, I attempted to start the car and it would not start. After several tries, it finally started, but the check engine light remained on. The dealership ran a diagnostic check. I was told there was a computer concern. My warranty will expire in less than a month. I don't want to have to pay for a computer out of pocket.

smittay17

ive got the same problem... did you ever find an answer?

smittay17

when im driving and pull into a parking space, i hear this chirping underneath my car when im stopped for about a minute. it is only when im in Drive with the brakes on and completely stopped for about 30 secs - 1 minute.

i put the e-brake on while in Drive and got underneath the 2003 corolla le to confirm the noise and it was there. when the fan comes on, the chirping goes away temporarily, but then builds again until the fan comes on again. its pretty constant.

i put the car in park (from drive) and there is no chirping noise. its completely gone.

This noise usually comes only when I put it in DRIVE and press the Break pedal. The noise goes off immediately if I change to PARK. So essentially noise is only when I am at a halt with transmission in DRIVE and the break pedal pressed.
Any help/direction I can get, as to where that noise may be coming from and what I can do to fix it,is appreciated.

does anything else jump out at you as being the totally obvious problem?

thanks,
smitt

alex24

I have a corolla with the same noise, I sprayed WD-40 on the Belt Tensioner Pully Bearings, and also belt conditoner spray on the Belt, and that help my noise.

JDM5LugHatch

It's the belt tensioner. Just replace it with a Dayco model from your local auto parts store. Might as well replace the belt while you're at it. This installation is somewhat straight forward but definitely a pain in the [non-permissible content removed]. You must loosen the motor mount on the passanger side and lift the motor slightly. The longer the box wrenches (preferably reversible ratcheting) the easier your life will be. Unless you just want to pay someone to do the install. I don't think I would replace it with the Toyota original part. We had my wife's cousin replace it under goodwill and 1 year later it was already shot again.

terceltom

WD-40 will help in the short term but your noise will be back. Late model Corollas are noted for bad tensioners.

smittay17

is it the belt tensioner? i dont know enough. heres what other people said on another board:

"initially i would say it sounds like a belt problem. but after your detailed explanation about a vibration and leak you might have something wrong with your transmission. If you're stopped the brakes can't make any noise.Mechanic 17 years"

and

"transmission pump. It pumps the transmission oil through the cooler lines through the radiator and back to the transmission again. Sounds like the pump is chirping. Try putting a transmission fluid cleaner or transmission sealer in the transmilssion then see what happens."

?? help.

Mr_Shiftright

I'd go with the much more obvious cause (belt tensioner) than the far less likely one. That's the best rule for solving problems (look up "Occam's Razor") :P

terceltom

What leak? Most likely belt tensioner. A 2003 Toyota shouldn't a tranny problem already.

hayray1

Hi all... I just got an 04 Corolla S. The driver-side door lock stopped reacting to the door lock/unlock switch, as well as the remote. It only moves when opening manually. It makes no difference whether the door is open or closed, or if the engine is on or not. My guess is the actuator is on the fritz, but stranger things have happened. Anyone have a similar or seeb this befire?
Hayray1

mcdawgg

My old '99 has the same problem. The actuator is bad. I just use the key to open and push the lock down manually to lock, because with the age of mine it isn't worth it to replace it. Fortunately, at 108K+ miles, that's the only problem I have had.

sunstar

I have a 2005 Toyota Corolla. Last August the P0741 code was triggered and within days the transmission planetery gear failed. Mileage was 75000 however non dealer mechanic was not aware of TSB TC008-04 and warranty for ECU malfunction. After $3400 repair the car drove okay until now (7 months) and once again P0741 code has triggered and the next day the transmission failed again. Mileage is now 81000 and out of warranty. Local Toyota dealer service manager is not aware of any connection between P0741 code and planetery gear failure and doubts Toyota will honor warranty. Could ECU failure described in TSB lead to these transmission crashes and should Toyota honor warranty and replace ECU at no charge? I have documentation from transmission mechanic that P0741 code was trigger at 75000 miles.

rose920

How do I know if my mechanic is taking unfair of my "female" status? Yesterdays checkup cost me over a $1000. $500 in labor, two tires, new brakes, fluid changes etc. I feel as if I have been taken and this guy is a supposed friend. Your input would be appreciated, basically to tell me how I can find out what repair work on my car SHOULD be costing me.

terceltom

I would say your price for parts is high and your labor cost is exorberant. At the going rate that's about 8 hours labor. There no way that job should have taken 8 hours. Two hours tops. I would definitely confront him and ask him why so high. Perhaps you should ask to see the old tires and and brakes as well.

dave594

I think you've been robbed. There's no way a less than 2 year old Corolla needs that kind of work unless it's been really abused. For a routine 36k service, it's mostly an oil change with some additional visual inspection and other fluid change as needed. Did you check your owner's manual on what was called for in that service? I'd definitely ask for the old parts to see.

kenym

My wife has a 06 Corolla S. We were charged $200 for the 30K check up last month and I thought that was high.

terceltom

Yeh, but you didn't get tires and brakes did you? Tires and brakes and labor is roughly $350.00 right there. Let's break this down, Okay she needed two tires, that's likely, cost - p/l $150.00. Brakes all the way around, possibly, cost - p/l $200.00. Oil and filter, cost, - p/l $30.00. Coolant, okay they suggest it, cost - p/l $50.00 = total $430.00 on the high end depeding where you go and where you live.

kenym

What's your point?. You claim $450 on the high side. Well she spent $1,000. I thought she was over charged. As far as my 30k check up is concerned. You are right I didn't get tires or brakes.However I still think $200 for a 30k check up is high for what they do. Not much more than a oil change with a visual inspection of the vehicle, no other fluids or parts were required on our car. It was ONLY $200 because I had a $50 coupon I was at the Dealer about an hour total. That included washing the vehicle, paying the bill and listening to the guy telling me all the things they checked on my vehicle.

Mr_Shiftright

Perhaps she could post a line by line description of parts and labor so that we could inform her more accurately and be more fair to (or critical of) the garage in question. For instance, you can put on really good tires and have them mounted and balanced correctly or you could slam on some Chinese tires for far less money. Ditto the brakes. New high quality rotors all 'round or just a pad swap?

terceltom

Relax kenym, simply put, my point was, you can't compare your cost to her cost. She got tires and brakes and you didn't. And I believe YOU and HER both got ripped off, only she got it worse than you but at least she's walking away with something to show for it.!

kenym

I am relaxed ( retired actually ). I also don;t know why you thought I was comparing my 30k maintenance cost to the 2008 Corolla 36k posting. I posted what I thought was a lot of money for a 30k scheduled maintenance. By the way what do they charge for the 30k scheduled maintenance where you work?

terceltom

I also don;t know why you thought I was comparing my 30k maintenance cost to the 2008 Corolla 36k posting.

Post #3278

By the way what do they charge for the 30k scheduled maintenance where you work?

We work on felines not cars, not usually required my mileage, but that's way off topic. I never did and never would think of paying $200 plus for a 36k maintenance check-up. My Corollas NEVER go to the garage unless it's their yearly state inspection time or if I'm having a problem, and that's very rare. State inspections are around $30.00

rose920

OK. Now that I am over the shock of the huge bill, I see where I got taken and remember that I was advised not to have this "36k" checkup the way it was presented to me. Unfortunately, I forgot that. Here is the breakdown as it is listed on my bill:
Parts/Description

Synthetic Transmission Fluid
Big flush kit
Dexcool Antifreeze
Coolant Cleaner
Coolant Proteant
Wipers
Castrol GTZ Engine oil with filter
Oil Filter
brake fluid (cost) 3.58
Air Filter
Tire Integrity $65., size 1856515 2.00 $105.00 210.00
Cleaner ??? 1.00 4.00
pads 1.00 80.62
rotor 2.00 53.61 107.22
Shop supplies 20.09

Labor Description
30k, 60k, 90k, 120k Synthetic service $425.95
oil & filter, rotate & balance tires,
clean & adju. rear brakes, Replace air filter,
replace wiper blades, G coolant flush,
clean throttle body, alignment, clean & lube doors &
antenna & A17 Point Inspection

Replace front rotors & pads $80.00
Mount 2 tires
Balance 2 tires 18.
Hazardous Materials 26.20

Labor $550.15
Parts 421.93
Tax 29.54
total $100.62

I guess they saw me coming. Imagine if the owner was not a friend!!

terceltom

Yea well, live and learn! Half that stuff shouldn't have been needed at 36K. With friends like yours, who needs enemies? But what I really don't understand is what is "30k, 60k, 90k, 120k Synthetic service $425.95 "?

mcdawgg

I'd be surprised if you needed brakes - not impossible, but most people (depending on conditions) get way more miles than that! Tires, I could see, because most OEM tires are not great. I don't like GoodYear Integrity tires - see reviews at tirerack.com.

Interior air filter and engine air filter - yes, replace, but it takes all of 5 minutes to do both of them, and total OEM parts cost of about $40 at most. Your owner's manual even shows you how to change the interior cabin filter, and I've shown people that are not at all mechanically inclined how to change the engine air filter - very easy.

Coolant - no way. See the sticker under the hood of the car? It says 100,000 miles or (I think 6 years) for the first change. I don't know if I would wait that long, but I sure wouldn't do it at 36k or 2 years. The owner's manual tells you this also.

Coolant cleaner and protectant? No way, that's a joke. Just use Toyota coolant, that's it.

Wipers - inserts about $10-$12, 8 minutest to change.

Tranny fluid - see owner's manual, but you don't need it this early. At most, just a drain and fill, but even that is a bit overkill.

Throttle body - not needed this early, I do every 60k and never had any problems.

Clean and adjust rear brakes - not needed, never touched mine, over 100,000 miles.

Let's just say live and learn! Always check the owner's manual and check on the net and/or with people who are knowledgeable.