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Chevy S10 Owner Reviews



  • It seems like everybody is going through the same phase!! I'm thinking about buying a '94 Blazer Tahoe LT(Fully Loaded) It has 127,000 miles on it but it looks great, im afraid to buy because i been hearing too many trasmission probs and it seems like that's high moleage! I would preciate if i could get an opinion ASAP because i'm looking to buy next week between Sept.18-23. Any help is appreciated you can email me at:
  • I forgot to mention they wanted $$4995 for the Blazer
  • 4.3L V-6 Vortec, Towing package, leather seats, keyless entry, roof rack, alloys, the whole 9!
  • mjbwrtrmjbwrtr Posts: 172
    my temp gauge doesnt work right...just registers occasionally..and i am concerned..i dont wanna have it overheat and have me not know til its shot. i have a 1993 s-10 2wd with a five speed and 2.8 v-6. i have asked people about it and no one seems to be able to pin it down. the actual gauge on the dash is in working order, so i know it is a wire or a sending unit. there are two sending units which look almost identical. one is on top under the air filter housing and has two wires coming from it. i unplugged it as part of a "trial and error" and started the truck and it idled very rough. the other unit is on the right side under the valves. i changed this, as i thought it was the problem. it apparently wasnt, as the gauge still registers when it wants to. i am confused and dont wanna end up spending bug bucks to have it done professionally or replacing the engine due to an overheat. any ideas??
  • A broken wire or a loose contact. A general pain either way.
  • mjbwrtrmjbwrtr Posts: 172
    well i figured it was a contact problem or a broken wire but i need to know which of those two sending units is in charge of sending the info to my temp guage. any ideas? i think it is the one on top with two wires coming from it.
  • tommctommc Posts: 68
    The sensor with two wires on top, should have a black and a white or yellow looking wires, is the temp sensor for the computer, the lower one on the head with a green wire is the gauge sensor. Best bet at this point might be to put on an aftermarket gauge. They are usually mechanical with a copper tube and sensing bulb that goes into the place where the factory sensor is.
  • tommctommc Posts: 68
    Had seven S10s now. The best of the breed is the 91 to 93 with the v6 engines. The earlier ones are ok, but tend to rust and aren't generally as well equiped or comfortable. The later S10s, in my opinion, have serious build quality problems. Had a 96 and 97 and really quite surprised, or shocked at the problems with them. I now have a 93 with the Vortec 4.3 V6 that gets 25 mpg with all the power I would want. Had a 91 with 145,000 miles on it, 2.8 V6 five speed, that ran, drove, and looked pretty much as new. Very impressed with the earlier trucks, disappointed with the newer ones.
  • First, let me say that my post does not cover any problems regarding the Chevy S-10...just praises. I am the owner of a 1994 Chevy S-10 (standard short bed) pickup with a 5-speed transmission. I bought it two years ago, and it now has 43,000 miles. I average 28 miles per gallon. Last week I had new brakes/rotors and a new exhaust put on (the pipe ahead of the muffler rusted through. Being the pipe is welded to the muffler, I had to have both replaced). Grand total = $500.00. Other than the seemingly normal wear and tear, I've had no problems. It has the standard 2.2L engine, which doesn't have a tremendous amount of power, but I'm still happy with this truck. I know my two cents doesn't mean much to the people posting their problems, but I just wanted others to know that not all S-10's are problematic. I have a great little truck.
  • I own a 1998 Chevy S10 (4 cyl; automatic; AC)and I have a problem with heat from the engine compartment entering the vehicle. With the climate control in the "off" position, hot air, in lieu of outside fresh air, enters the vehicle at the accelerator (gets hot and is quite uncomfortable to the foot). With the controls in the "vent" position, the hot air blows in my face. The dealership says this is normal for the S10 and there is nothing they can do to correct this situation. If this is a factory defect, is there something that can be done to fix the problem? Please advise.
  • Sorry for interrupting this conversation, but since there seem to be some of you here who are having various problems with your S-10's, I wanted to throw this message out where you can see it. I have been having a problem finding a place to post this write-up, I originally posted it on my Personal webpage at Geocities but apparently no Search Engines can see it there. Maybe some of you in this S-10 forum have had this problem and this post will help you out...

    BTW: Our '94 4-cylinder Automatic S-10 2WD has had zero problems other than this one and the seat belt inertia locks that just quit working. With over 77K on it we still pull down over 27mpg, have had no traction problems in nasty winter driving with the Tiger Paws that now have over 80K on them (on another S-10) and still look pretty safe! Yeah, it rattles a little and rides rough - I bought a pick-up not a luxury sedan! For the under 10K price-tag 6 years ago this has been a very good vehicle...


    About the time the original 36,000 mile warrantee ran out on our ’94 S-10 Pick-up we started to have intermittent problems
    with the windshield wipers. They would either refuse to work or stop working, usually in warm weather or after the
    temperature warmed-up under the hood in colder weather.

    I checked GM Safety recalls and found nothing and, eventually, inquired of my dealer’s service department on a couple
    different occasions to see if GM was aware of this problem and if they would offer to fix it - no such luck!

    I knew the Wiper Motor Assembly would be an expensive part, so we limped along for the better part of 3 years with
    unreliable wipers on the truck. I found that I could wiggle the connector on the motor and get the wipers working again most of
    the time if I was willing to get out in the rain - for my wife and daughter, who also drive the S-10, I treated the windshield to a
    frequent coating of Rain-X. One of the first things I looked at when we bought our ’98 S-10 2 years ago was the wiper motor
    - it had the same configuration but a different part number which made me even more suspicious that the ’94 motor had some
    kind of design defect.


    Just this past week I decided that I was going to resolve the problem with the ’94 once and for all. I removed the Wiper Motor
    Assemblies from both trucks and found that the ’98 Assembly worked fine on the ’94 but the ’94 Motor demonstrated the
    same problem on the ’98 - if I wiggled the harness plugged into the ’94 Motor it would work sometimes on either truck. I
    removed the cover on the ’94 Motor Assembly and found that the male connector body is molded-into the Motor Circuit
    Board Assembly - the only thing holding it to the Motor Assembly is the plastic cover attached by 3 Torx screws.

    I couldn’t see anything obviously wrong so I set the thing aside and went to my local Advance Auto Parts store to see if I could
    buy a new Wiper Motor Assembly for a reasonable price. They listed a rebuilt Wiper Motor Assembly at $25.00 + $15.00
    core charge, which seemed pretty reasonable, but when the counterman brought the motor out and we opened it to make sure
    it was OK, I found that it did not include the Connector and Circuit Board Assembly! I was pretty sure the problem was in the
    Connector and Circuit Board so I told the counterman at Advance "No Thanks" and went home for a closer look. Before I left
    the store, though, I sneaked a peak at the computer terminal screen and noticed that they also listed a Delco Wiper Motor
    Assembly at $123.00! I didn’t feel so bad about the money I had spent on all that Rain-X over the past few years…

    When I got home I sat down with the old ’94 Wiper Motor and removed the Connector and Circuit Board Assembly. Now,
    looking really close at the board in the area of the Connector, I could see that the solder was cracked around 4 of the 5
    connector pins where they were soldered to the Circuit Board pads - AHA!

    I got out my trusty soldering iron (I’m a mechanic, not a sparky! I hate sniffing the smoke from burning solder flux and burning
    my fingers with the soldering iron. But I learned in soldering class that "a good mechanical joint makes a good solder joint" and
    it was pretty clear the Connector on that Motor board had neither!). I re-heated each of the five solder joints where the
    connector pins attached to the Circuit Board until the pins were hot enough to flow solder on the opposite side of each pin to
    the soldering iron, and ended-up with 5 nice, shiny, solder joints with no gaps or cracks around the pins. When I plugged the
    Motor in to the Harness it worked perfectly! I wiggled the Connector and it no longer seems to have any effect on the
    operation of the Motor! VIOLA! Two cents worth of electricity and a penny’s worth of solder seems to have done the trick!

    My theory is that the soldering machine that assembled the Wiper Motor Circuit Board Assembly for the ’94 S-10 was not
    set-up properly to get a good solder joint on the heavy connector pins. It would take a lot more power to heat the heavy pins
    than the small electrical components on the Circuit Board and, because the connector pins did not get hot enough during the
    soldering operation, they ended-up with "cold" solder joints that cracked during the first 3 years of the truck’s life. The Motor
    Assemblies at Advance Auto Parts are cheap because GM Dealers have been replacing Motor Assemblies like hot-cakes with
    those $123 Delco parts, and Delco is wholesaling the Motors to the rebuilder for next-to-nothing. Unfortunately, the rebuilt
    Motor won’t fix your Wipers if you have the same problem I had, and you’ll be doing a lot of nasty, unnecessary work by
    removing and replacing the whole motor.


    · DO NOT attempt to remove the whole Wiper Motor Assembly from your S-10! It is very difficult to remove the plastic cowl
    vent from the car to get at the nut that attaches the Motor shaft to the Wiper Arms and you do not need to do it.

    · Remove the Connector from the Wiper Motor by lifting the latch on top of the Connector and gently pulling the connector out
    of the Wiper Motor to the left.

    · Remove the three Torx screws that hold the black plastic cover on the Wiper Motor Assembly and pop the cover off.

    · The only thing holding the Circuit Board and Connector Assembly in place now is the snug fit between the edges of the
    Circuit Board and the Motor Housing. You will see about 4 spots around the periphery of the board where they have provided
    a small notch for a screwdriver blade to pry the Circuit Board away from the motor. Pry gently at each spot until the Circuit
    Board pops out and carefully slide it down and forward away from the motor.

    · Look carefully at the 5 spots where the Connector pins solder to the board - if you have "cold" solder joints there you may
    need to look real close to see the cracks in the solder around the pins or maybe even use a magnifying glass.

    · Now sit down with a small soldering iron (mine has about a ¼-inch tip - you don’t want to use a Wood-burning tool and a
    tiny instrument soldering iron might not get the pins hot enough) and heat each pin ‘til you see the solder on the Circuit Board
    pad "sag" around the pin and the crack disappears. I added a little bit of solder to each joint for good measure - just don’t
    "bridge" the space between copper traces on the board or you’ll end-up with a short!

    When you put it all back together you should have a more reliable Wiper system on your S-10. It takes a half-hour. costs
    almost nothing, and might even work on other GM cars with Wiper problems.

    If it works for you send me an E-mail and let me know!
  • My '95 has this exact problem and GM wouldn't repair it under the recall because my manufacture date was too early. The fix sounds simple enough. Yep, I do the wiggle the connector to get it working trick too.

    Much thanks again for saving me the bucks.
  • wincemwincem Posts: 1
    I bought a 2000 S-10 just this past June and have been totally happy so far. I've only had two complaints. One- The steering made a loud knocking noise when starting from a dead stop with the wheels totally turned (dealer changed bushings and fine now) and Two- the third door made really loud rattles going over even tiny bumps. I never really gave this too much of a thought seeing as how I knew about this problem before I bought the truck from reading this forum. However, today after washing my truck, I took the door panel off to see if it was something I could figure out. Well, it took me all of two minutes to fix the problem. There is a rod that runs from the door handle up to the top latch. This is the problem. All I had to do was unclip the black plastic clip holding the rod, and then move it up a couple notches, just enough to make it snug, without actually pulling on the rod. And Voila! Its all fixed. I figured you might all be interested about this since there used to be so many postings regarding this annoying rattle. Most of the posts said their dealers couldn't fix it either. Well, do it yourself. Takes five minutes tops, and didn't even get my hands dirty. I took it all over the place over large bumps and potholes too, and not a peep out of the door. (I'm so proud of myself!!) As for my overall feelings on the truck- I highly recommend getting one. Mine is a Victory Red, 2000 S-10 ext-cab 4.3, with the sport side bed and Z-Q8 suspension. I am always getting looks from people as I cruise down the street and get plenty of compliments. The engine has plenty of horsepower stock from the factory, and I haven't lost a race yet. One other hint for those of you concerned about gas mileage- I know it won't make that much of a difference, but a tonneau cover will help cut down on wind drag, thus helping your mpg. Its worth the little money they cost if you do alot of highway driving. Otherwise, leave the tailgate at home, it'll help too, unless you absolutely need it. If you have any other questions, please feel free to e-mail me at Thanks for listening!
  • Mine: a 91 S-10 4.3 V6 with 225,000 miles on it, and plenty of HP and compression left. Husband maintained from day one with reg oil changes, TLC, and lectures (to me) to treat it with respect. His: a 56 step side Apache with the small window - such a BEAST, but a real looker around town.
    I love my truck, have had some minor repairs, mostly maint, radiator, fuel pump, alternator etc.
    Biggest complaint is electrical (power windows, gauge quirks) but overall a GREAT truck. Bought new, and hubby always good about changing the oil, etc. Still has lots of giddyup. My truck has been there, done that, and will do it again. Is now a challenge to see how many miles I can go. Dog owns the ext third door back then!
  • I have a standard cab with the long bed. This great truck has almost 130,000 miles on it and still runs great. I put larger tires on it. 235 75R 15 they give me good ground clearance and a great ride. I keep the oil changed and don't treat it mean. It should keep running several more years.
  • joe3891joe3891 Posts: 759
    I have a 1999 Sonoma auto & ac.With the system turned off you still have air coming in at the floor and the temperature control will still control the temp.IN moderate cold I dont even turn the sys. on I just adjust the temp.control.I know your S10 has the same sys.I like it,if you lose a blower motor you could still have heat.Any ? just ask.
  • dangbwidangbwi Posts: 35
    Own a 1997 S-10 LS 4 cyl. 5 speed, with air, cruise and tilt. I have 46,000 mostly highway miles on it now, and it has been perfect. I average around 28 mpg all around and 30 plus mpg at 65 mph, with the cruise, on the highway. No complaints about the truck, it rides quiet and comfortable. I have never had the TigerPaw tires do anything to make me hate them. We have ice and snow covered roads for most of the winter in Northern Wisconsin and the tires have been fine for me.
  • dannygdannyg Posts: 131
    Any news if Chevy is going to offer their new 2.2L OHC 4cyl in the S10? It is now used by Saturn, but I hear it will be used in a lot of GM cars/trucks in the future. Info at

    I'm looking to replace my old V6 Ranger with a new S10 or Ranger, probably a 4cyl for better fuel economy. A new 2.3L OHC engine will be available in the 2001 Ranger this winter, I wonder if Chevy will counter with their 2.2 OHC.

    Thanks for any info.
  • joe3891joe3891 Posts: 759
    I would wait to see how the new engine works out,GM has had bad luck with new engines.Look at the 2.3 & 2.4 OHC lots of trouble,still trouble. I believe in the kiss system,Keep It Simple Stupid,more parts more problems more trouble.
  • Transmission goes out at 58K. Power brakes, brake pads, battery, oil seal, differential seal, assorted plastics, seat lever, hanger hinge, and
    weather stripping all go out under warranty, along with three factory recals. Third year model -- What's up Chevy?

    I had perfectly maintained this vehicle, having full maintainence records. The Chevy dealer offered no partial Goodwill credit on the transmission. GM Corporate did not even bother replying to my follow up letter. GM seems to have no professionalism, and seems not to care about
    maintaining customers whatsoever. It makes me depressed to say, but buy a Toyota and have some piece of mind :(
  • Anyone here know why GM has dropped the EPA mileage estimates on the 4.3, Auto, 4wd for 2001? The 2000 estimates were 16/21 and the 2001 estimates are 15/18, quite a difference. I have a 95 Sonoma that gets 18 around town and 22 on the highway. I'm about to order a 2001, but was surprised to see the new mileage figures. The salesman was no help, pretty sure I know more about the truck than he does.
  • tommctommc Posts: 68
    When you buy a new truck or car you'll get a questionaire after a few months. I suspect the feds get this info and adjust the mileage ratings according to the feedback they get. My 97 was rated at 30 highway, actually would get no more than 28 at absolute best. The next year the EPA rating was 28, maybe even less now. The ratings are usually pretty accurate and this continuous adjustment may be why.
  • dannygdannyg Posts: 131
    Yes, 15/18 MPG is pretty bad--might as well buy a Silverado. I guess you've got to get a 4cyl to get decent MPG these days. Ford will have a new 2.3L OHC 4cyl engine with about 140hp and 155 torque. I hope Chevy retaliates with a more-powerful OHC 4cyl.
  • I am in the market for a new pick-up (I currently have an Eclipse.) I have always had my eyes set on a Tacoma, but realized I could get more for my buck with a Chevy S10. I am looked today at the 2001 LS V6 Extended Cab series and got instant google eyes. However, I am slightly discouraged now by reading the responses. If I could get anything from someone who has purchased a 2001 S10 I would be appreciative :)
  • barlitzbarlitz Posts: 752
    Have you though about the 2001 Ranger it has a new
    4.0 V6 207 HP engine,standard 4 doors on supercab along with standard 4 wheel abs.Nice truck I though about a 2000 ZR2 great rebates and 0% financing for 5 years up here in Boston,but I'm not a big fan of the Chevy
  • gmsjsbgmsjsb Posts: 8
    My friend's '87 Sonoma just turned 300,000 miles. 2.5L, 4speed manual. Used for work all it's life. Same friend owned an '84 Cavalier before that. 2.0L, 3speed auto. Traded it in at 170,000 miles. Still ran fine. My father had a Chevy Van 30 a few years back that had 240,000 miles on it. Another friend's 1500 pickup has 225,000 miles on it. Grandfather has an '84 Olds Custom Cruiser at 101,000 miles, even with woodgrain. 2 Delta 88's in the family went 140,000 miles. My '91 S-10 is young at 101,000 miles. Starts every morning without question. No significant problems with any of these vehicles. Exhaust, tires, shocks, belts, maybe a water pump, that's about it.

    If you take care of a Chevy, it'll last forever... Be proud to own an American-made, American-company owned vehicle.

  • mjbwrtrmjbwrtr Posts: 172
    my 1993 s-10's driver side window refuses to co-operate. it will roll down smoothlt but balks and grinds and makes a "click" noise when i try to wind it back up. it does roll back up but not without great force applied to the handle. i tired squirting oil down into the track but it didnt work. someone told me that i would have to take the door apart and use white lithium grease. any ideas? if i do have to remove the door panel, how do i do it? thanks.
  • meredithmeredith Posts: 578
    Been there, done that....

    albeit with a Cherokee and power windows.

    First look at the door panel. The handle, and any other obvious fastners will have to come off. Then you should be able to "pop" the panel loose around the outside. Pick a corner and work in both directions, slowly and carefully. It pops out, it will pop back in.

    The window mechanism uses some parts that are metal and some that are plastic/nylon. The latter wear out and must be replaced. For an electric opener this means buying a $300 motor because a $2.50 nylon wheel has worn down. Hopefully yours will be cheaper.

    If you do not already own a Haynes manual for your vehicle I would strongly recommend it.

    Good luck!

    Front Porch Philosopher
    SUV, Pickups & Aftermarket and Accessories Host
  • that makes the S10 look small.
  • vjanvjan Posts: 2
    it does look small to your full size,,what if you had the motor out of the full size and put it in the S10? i did. and put dual wheels on the back too. tell me how you put your pic on there and i will send you on of mine,,,,vince
This discussion has been closed.