last time i popped the cover to my g's battery i found 6 removable plugs and my owner's manual dedicates pages to the importance of frequently checking the water level in my battery. over my 5k miles of ownership, i've added distilled water once. in a perfect world all batteries are maintenance free, but our japanese counterparts at infiniti have yet to realize the techinal breakthrough allowing them to produce maintenance free batteries. maybe a visit from GM or Ford could be in order.
This is a SPORTS sedan. It has good power and performance. People that buy this car don't/shouldn't care much about gas mileage. If you want the performance, you have to give up the gas mileage. You can't have your cake and eat it too.
bigorange30 is correct, to an extent. Big torque cars are usually inversely powerful with respect to their fuel efficiency. But I, too, am disappointed with my G35's mileage. I got around 15-16 mpg on my first two tanks' worth (mainly city driving), and recently got around 22mpg on a highway drive. Some 4+ liter V8's get this kind of mileage, so indeed I think Nissan/Infiniti was more concerned with extracting maximum power from this engine, and not efficiency.
I agree that gas mileage shouldn't be a big concern for those of us that were seeking performance! BUT...My concern is more that everyone else seems to be getting 18-19 mpg in the city and 22 or so on the highway. I don't get why mine is so much worse. I was getting 17 during the first several months and it just seems to be getting worse instead of better. I only have 2900 miles on my car right now because I'm a fair weather driver.
I hope that the G35 coming out with 4WD is just a rumor because I'm afraid that now my husband will go out and buy one too!
I wonder if you did follow the break-in instructions for the first 1200 miles.
Anyway, if I were you, I'd experiment with the gas a bit (which is what I will do anyway). After the first few tanks of premium gas, I will try regular (87-octane) for a few tanks. I figure that the regular gas will be cheaper to use without appreciably sacrificing performance.
BTW, I got 17.7 mpg on my first tank (my dealer put premium gas there, as he said). It was on mixed driving (maybe 50-50 city and highway).
I was a little worried about gas mileage reading other people's experience on some of the G35 boards. Luckily, my experience so far has been a little bit better. I only have 550 miles on my G35 (1 week old) and I got very nearly 25 mpg on my first tank on mostly highway driving. It may be a combination of MT, NOT pushing it, and premium gas. I sincerely hope the mileage remains reasonable, i.e., within the EPA figures of 20/27, after the break-in!:)
swimminglady: worry not, your mileage is certainly within the norm many G35 drivers are seeing. To increase efficiency, make sure your tires are properly inflated, accelerate slowly, drive with the windows closed, run the AC on "econ," and avoid short, stop-and-go trips.
norbert444: Experimenting with 87-octane gas is NOT a good idea. Buying a $35k+ car designed to run on premium (91+) and then feeding it 87 just to save a few cents at the gas station doesn't make sense. These engines are smart enough to recognize the degraded gas and respond by retarding engine timing to reduce output (probably by 10-20 horsepower). Despite the recalibration, the engine's still at a greater risk for hazardous early detonation (pinging), especially under high-load, high-temperature situations. So, if you're in a bind and can't find premium fuel, getting 87 will certainly work. But I'd recommend against making the change in the hopes of spending less on gas.
I have used 91 since I bought my G35 in August. Just out of curosity, I swithced to 87. I have been using 87 for about 4 weeks now. My gas mileage is about the same (about 19 mpg). I do notice a slight decrease in power and response. In my opinion, if you drive your car hard, it is probably a good idea to use 91. But for everyday, normal driving, I have found that 87 is just fine.
Here in San Diego, the savings is more than just a few cents. In addition to the inflated gas prices in San Diego, the price differential between 87 and 91 can be 30 cents/gallon. That can be an additional $250 a year! Last week I paid $1.929 for 87 (91 would have been $2.29/gallon).
Everybody's situation is different. In my opinion, just try it yourself for a few weeks and make your own decision. Good luck!
In my opinion, you'd probably be doing more than $250 worth of damage to your engine every year using 87 exclusively. Oh, and by the way, pinging--aside from being harmful to your engine--is inherently inefficient and (ironically) would increase fuel consumption.
Yes, a lot of sensible comments! snagiel, you gave a good advice on how to increase mileage. The owner's manual has more on that subject on page 5-17.
However, the gas choice is not related to how much we paid for the car at all!! Except of course avoiding those gas pumps that put in more water in their gas.
(start underline) All other things being equal, octane rating that is good for your car is that which is not producing the pinging of your engine. (end underline)
This has always been the primary criteria. In fact, you may look at page 10-3 of your owner's manual. I reproduce the fuel recommendation for sedans here for your convenience: (shortened quote) Use unleaded regular gasoline with an octane rating of at least 87 ... For improved performance, use octane rating of at least 91 (end shortened quote)
And on page 10-4, under Octane rating tips, you may read on the use of lower octane: However, now and then you may notice light spark knock (pinging) for short time while accelerating or driving up hills. This is no cause for concern, because you get the greatest fuel benefit when there is light spark knock for a short time under heavy engine load.
For my other car (00 Maxima), the manual has the same recommendations. And I have discovered that after 30K miles, I get roughly 25.5 mpg on 87-octane and 24.5 on 91-octane. That engine I believe has a similar timing computer adjustment. Maybe - just maybe - it is a bit quieter with the 91 octane. Therefore I need to get something that measures noise, to be sure.
snagiel: Pinging, if persistent, is BAD for your engine, no question. However, be not afraid of occasional pinging (rapping metallic noise) that comes as a result of stepping on the gas pedal real hard. What I found on my Max, it is impossible to produce it on that engine. (I had that problem on some of my previous cars, especially when I bought ARCO gas. In fact, 1988 Mitsubishi Galant had to avoid ARCO 87 octane completely - it produced more than an occasional knock.) I cannot try hard acceleration on my G35 since it is still being broken in but some other folks may tell us about their experience with 87 octane, as eticketride did.
In Alabama the octane ratings are: 87, 89, & 93. The price difference is roughly 8 - 10 cents more as you increase the octane (such as $1.39 for 87, $1.49 for 89, & $1.59 for 93).
This may be a stupid question but what happens if you mix say a half tank of 89 octane with a half tank of 93 octane? Do the octanes mix in anyway, and do you get anything near a 91 octane? Does mixing gas work this way?
I have a G35 purchased in June 2002. I am at about 12,000 miles and when I had the car in for service, I was told that the front pads were down to 10%. In reading some of the other posts, it seems to be an issue. I drive in LA traffic, so I'm probably harder on brakes than most, but 12,00 miles? If that weren't enough, the brakes are on back order, I'm now on my third day without the car.
This is not scientific by any means, but if enthusiasts like us are talking and see a pattern, replacement brakes pads are on back order just as the first model turns a year old, I think Infiniti has a real problem they need to address. Just happy that the dealer has stood by me and taken care of me with a loaner car.
I just got my G35 and I live in LA too. Just out of curiosity, who's your dealer? I want to keep them in mind in case I run into a similar problem in the future.
you are not the only one with fast wearing brake pads. I'm at 12.5 k and still have the originals but they have not been checked Most people so far are reporting 15-20k. Whether or not it is an issue is debatable. They are very soft pads that will wear fast. They also stop extremely short. That's not necessarily a problem - it could have been a conscious decision.
Just bought a used '03, 6,600 miles, silver/ willow sedan with the premium package for 29K. Glad someone else took the depreciation. I think this car is one of the first G35s manufactured (January of 2002)? Does anyone know how to confirm this?
Was a one year lease turn-in. Also have an '03 Jaguar X-Type that requires premium fuel.
In reading all the posts, some items are not crystal clear.
Does the G35 require 94 octane or 91 octane? Even my salesman is unsure. I know my Jag will not run well, if at all, on anything less than 94 octane. Is this true of the G35?
Indeed: mixing gasolines (in the normal octane range at gas stations, at least) averages out linearly. So, a tank with half-89 and half-93 will yield (assuming it's sufficiently sloshed around) a tank of 91 octane. (In fact, I've read that gasoline companies actually arrive at different octane offerings with this simple method of mixing different ratios of high- and low-octane blends.)
The only downside to this is having to make two separate payment transactions at the pump.
On mixing octanes, yes, mixing them does exactly what you'd expect. I've actually gotten gas from a station where the pump had 5 choices.. 87, 89, 91, 92, 93.. and there were two fuel hoses running from the pump to the nozzle.
On prices in San Diego, where are you getting your gas from? Look around. I just filled up at $1.81/gal for premium today. It was $1.83 a couple weeks ago. That's Costco. But even Mobil is about $1.85/gal for 87 and $2.05/gal for 91 (and they're usually the pricey one near my house). If the difference is more than 20 cents between 87 and 91, go find another gas station.
I don't know about someone else taking the depreciation on your car. I have seen many people here and on other websites that are paying what you paid for a brand new one.
premium/sunroof probably stickered for about 32.5K. My premium/sunroof/winter($600)/bose($900)/wood($200) sticker was 34.2K.
In any event, a 1/02 build date is one of the first. I took delivery in late June of a 05/02 build car. Take a look at the last 6 digits of the VIN. That will tell you how old your car is. My 05/02 car is VIN 0147xx = almost the 15,000th car built.
re:gas - opinions will vary, but I use premium (93).
Looks like mine is one of the first 2,000 built. Have not seen many Edmunds issues regarding earlier vs. later manufactur dates.
The car originally had a sticker of over $34,500 with all the options and was originally sold in May of 2002. I checked many different dealers and the ones who had the used '03s with the same options were all selling at higher price point(s). I do not mind a little overpaying for a solid vehicle. Am also using a good dealer who will take care of any issues and offer free car washes. These factors mean more to me than paying a little less and working with a lousy dealer. This car is a true rocket and handles very well.
Am still a little uncertain about the octane? In reading many different discussions, I do not see a consensus. Some use 87 and hear a pinging and some use 94 and get less gas mileage. 91 octane (if you can find it) seems to be the best of all worlds?
oh, ok. That matched my car exactly, so the prices are the same. I thought maybe you got premium w/o Bose but I can't recall if that was possible. In any event, IMO you did fine.
Just ordered a Navman iCN 630, should be arriving on Monday.
Also seen people that have installed a Garmin Street Pilot III either one fits pretty nicely into the hole where the NAV would be. Cost~$800. Advantage can take out of car and use in other car/rentals.
I've also seen very nice installs that put a head unit with pop out LCD into the hole where the NAV would be but that option can get really pricey. Cost ~$4000 + instal. Advantage can use to play DVD movies can use a truck screen LCD.
Another possible option is to install a PC in the trunk and an LCD in the front.
I have had my car serviced at Miller Infiniti in Van Nuys. They've always been pretty godd. They did not make me bring the loaner car back when it took more than a day. The car was with them for four days because of the brake shortage. I even checked with another dealer to make sure I was getting an accurate story. I'm just starting to get a little concerned given the rattles, recalls and brakes. Everything has been fixed promptly, but I was not expecting this from an Infiniti...so soon.
Bezahar, please let us know how you like the Navman! The Garmin Street Pilot is coming in an updated version next month, so I may do that, as well.
As for the brake issue..after much research and calling four dealers: there is a brake part shortage. Nissan/Infinity is/are correcting this as quickly as possible to avoid negative press. What manufacturer wants their vehicle to get bad press due to a safety feature? Remember the Ford Exploaders? What happened to sales after the tire issues?
Getting my brake pads replaced next week on a 6,600 mile used '03! Also asked then to sand all the rust from the rotors.
Yes, the brakes are still on backorder. Took my car in at 10,500 for an oil change and squeaky brakes. I was told that the front brakes are fine, but they were going to replace the back brakes as a warranty job. They gave me my car back. Still waiting after 1 week...
Is there some recall on the fast-wearing brake pads? Or a silent acceptance by Infiniti that the pads will be replaced free just as soon as the customer asks for them? Thanks.
There is not a recall regarding the brakes. The "silent acceptance" method is being employed. The brakes on my used '03 with 6,600 miles need replacing, but Infinity does not have the parts. I need to wait until next week.
I've got 10k on my car now, since Feb. and put a set of front brake pads on order. I do not want to wait for days when my car needs them. 80% of my miles are highway. I'll need an oil change in a couple of weeks, so I'll get them to tell me how much I have left on them.
My G35 sedan, built in October 2002, has annoying sounds - squeaks, creaks, vibrations that appear to emanate from the area of the door jambs, and sometimes from a vibrating right front seat.
The main problem is the intermittent and variable sticking-type creaky noises that seem to have to do with the vertical rubber stripping at the door jambs. If I close the door over a sock, the noises diminish or disappear. The sock drops out into the street when I open the door - it's not a practical solution. Also I don't hear those noises if I drive along while holding the door open with my left arm - which proves it's coming somewhere in the area of the jamb.
I can't seem to pinpoint it. Is anyone else having this problem? Any solutions???
Try spraying the contacting surface that makes your seals squeek with a silicon oil (NOT the petroleum-based oil, though). Do it very lightly so that your oil will not attract dust. Wipe it off if you over-apply.
I had my car serviced this week, with 4700 mile on it. The dealer reported that 35% of the pads were gone. This suggests that around 11,000 miles Im due, and I do not beat on this car. I was pretty surprised about this to say the least!
There was some concern a while ago about the G35 fuel mileage. I now have nearly 1100 miles on my G35 6MT, and the mileage (mpg) has been as follows on the three fill-ups so far: 1. about 25 (mostly highway) 2. about 22 (70% city) 3. about 26 (mostly highway) Since I am still (technically) in the break-in period, I have not driven like a maniac, but I have not been pussyfooting around either. I have kept the RPMs in check (mostly south of 4k) but the speeds have been reasonable -- around 75 on the highway, sprinkled with short overtaking bursts!:) I use premium (91 octane) -- like I have done for the past 11 years on my 1993 Camry SE (v6 MT) and on my 1998 Maxima SE (MT).
In the more distant past (say, 15 years ago), premium gas was associated (it may well have been an old wives' tale though I suspect there was some truth to it) with more of the additives (detergents) that inhibited carbon build-up and kept the system clean. So, some would use premium gas occasionally (say every fifth or sixth fill) just to keep the system free of carbon build-up, EVEN if their car did not need premium gasoline. However, that argument does not hold water now -- all grades of gasoline (better brands, at least) have enough of the detergents.
Since the octane rating has directly to do with whether or not the engine will ping excessively, the decision to use a particular grade of fuel or not is fairly straightforward -- use it if it does not ping excessively!:) In my case, I trust the manufacturer to tell me the fuel that is optimal for the car. However, I recognize that all of us differ in how we look at avoidable expenses -- in my opinion, it does not necessarily have to do with affordability. People with a lot of money are often very particular (euphimism for thrifty!).
It is interesting to compare my G35 experience with yours since I just re-filled for the first time and got 17.7 mpg on mostly city driving on the dealer-supplied first tank of premium gas. However, I really baby my machine - rarely exceed 50 mph and 2000 RPM. But the itch is there, no doubt ... This car is a toy and begs for 95 and 6000 ...
Regarding the old wives tales, they are just that. I have been in the petroleum business since before most participants in this forum were born. Therefore I should know how gasolines are blended. On my Maxima, I found that the cheapest gas will give me about the same performance and mileage as the most expensive (ie, highest octane) gas and still no pinging. I expect the same on the G35 but have not had the chance to test it fully.
I love your last sentence. Yes, being thrifty has more to do with how well one can accumulate the money as opposed to how much money one has available.
Argh. My cd player jammed for the second time today. First time was back in January, and it took a month for the replacement to come in. This time, they think it'll "only" be two weeks.
Hi, I was wondering if anyone has a leather wrinkle problem at the right top side of the back seat? The car is only less than 6 months old and there's no problem with the front seat. There's only couple of time that the rear seat actually fitted with people. BTW, I have a premium package with it. Another problem is that the left head lamp seems oscillating more than the right. wondering if anyone has the same problem? Thanks!
I have a G35 with 6,600 miles. Bought it used and the rotors are warped and rusty. Seems like this is prevalent with Infinity (I35, G35, M Series, etc..). The brake pads also go within 12K miles. The I35 boards all list similar problems. Infinity did not want to replace the rotors or the brake pads, but I kicked and screamed until they finally gave.
The car is at the dealer now and they gave me an I35 which seems slower (maybe heavier) and has far more body roll. BTW - the car vibrates and has the same "buzzing" sound people mention in most I35 posts. Anyone have this issue with the G35?
What are the engine differences between the G35 and the I35? I thought the two cars have the same engines? They definitely do NOT drive the same and the G35 seems far superior.
My son noticed that the belt buckle at the left back seat (behind the driver) sticks out of the seat. It is there for the middle seat belt to enable THREE people to buckle up. What kind of discomfort do the people feel sitting there? (I have no way to test it out since I carry no passengers.)
I have recently ordered a 2004 Coupe. I love the cars looks and performance. However I am uncomfortable with the way the driver's seatbelt tugs down on my shoulder. It does not have any adjustment. The passenger seat should have a height adjustment for a car in this price range. Also, the console looks very cheap with so much plastic and seems as if it will scratch easily. Any feedback on these items? Does anyone know of any changes for the 2004 Coupe? Also, does anyone have these premature brake problems with the Coupe or just the sedan?
I currently own a 2001 Passat GLX V6 that I'm planning on trading for a G35 Coupe. My Passat is a wonderful solid, well finished, quality car. I'm not thrilled with the seats but it has been a completely reliable, rattle free car. After listened to all these nightmare stories of rattles, bad brakes, warped rotors, noisey A/c units, and bad paint... why would I trade something reliable in for some sporty car with so many issues? Are these problems mostly with the G35 sedan or the Coupe? I thought Japanese cars (Nissan, Toyota, and Honda) were quality tight cars?
These may have been posted before. If so, sorry for the redundancy. The G35 has non-public recalls for Fuel Hose Connections (R2014), Gas Headlamp Cap (R2022) and Radio Circuit Board (R3104) where "R" = Recall.
The shifter assembly cylinders also have a tendancy to break (no recall to date). All are easy fixes and tend to be more problamatic on the first G35s off the assembly line.
The rear brake rotors and pads may become a recall soon, according to my service person. Nothing about the front rotors and pads.
Hope this is of help to someone.
If you want good paint, buy a Jag..they have a 12 layer paint process.
Anyone have information regarding the Bridgestone tires?
Well, this morning I was told by my local Infiniti dealer that the horrible noise I was experiencing on the right front of the car for the last two days was my brake pads. I essentially have none on the right and severely worn on the left. This is to the tune of over $300 on a 15,000 mi. car! From the sound of the above posts, I'm not the only one. We are not hard maniacal drivers, and I object that this is NOT covered under warranty.
you have a solid, reliable, quality car and you want to trade it for an Infiniti? I have a G35, I've had more problems in 3 months than i've had in the past 3 vehicles put together. I'd personally have a burger-flipper from McDonalds work on my car well before i'd trust an Infiniti technician. AND wait until you need to contact Infiniti Cunsumer Affairs, I kept my head level and my voice calm, i was swore at and hung up on. My advice would be to avoid Infiniti at all costs, a BMW will give you superior performance and hold its value much longer. It's embarassing when you pick up clients and they ask what all the noises are in your brand new Infiniti. It's sadenning when the service dept. makes a 1-day visit into a 25 day nightmare. It's downright dumb to trade in a car you obviously enjoy, hoping, that in the bargain, youll gain performance and be happier with the Infiniti. You wont. Plain and simple. Drive the Bimmer, Drive the G. There always has been a wannabe, they'll always will be a wannabe, In this case and almost all others, Infiniti's got that role down to a tee, and unfortunately, with their attitude and customer service, it looks as if it will always be that way.
Traveling on the highway this morning, doing about 65 mph, I attempted to accelerate, but once I got to 3000rpm, the engine just revved up with no acceleration.
From a standstill, the car does the same thing. Once I get beyond 3000 - 3500 rpm, there is no power, nothing, I can't accelerate.
The only way I can accelerate is to keep rpm's below 3000, and accelerate gradually.
Trying to get to the dealership ASAP. Any similar problems?
The base engine is the same for the I35 and G35. However, the engine management, intake, exhaust, and transmission are different. This, combined with the differences between RWD and FWD, leads to better performance by the G35 over the I35.
Similarly, comparing the G35 sedan and coupe, the coupe has improved intake, exhaust, and (possibly) engine management. Nissan claims 20 HP more in the coupe.
Comments
I hope that the G35 coming out with 4WD is just a rumor because I'm afraid that now my husband will go out and buy one too!
Anyway, if I were you, I'd experiment with the gas a bit (which is what I will do anyway). After the first few tanks of premium gas, I will try regular (87-octane) for a few tanks. I figure that the regular gas will be cheaper to use without appreciably sacrificing performance.
BTW, I got 17.7 mpg on my first tank (my dealer put premium gas there, as he said). It was on mixed driving (maybe 50-50 city and highway).
norbert444: Experimenting with 87-octane gas is NOT a good idea. Buying a $35k+ car designed to run on premium (91+) and then feeding it 87 just to save a few cents at the gas station doesn't make sense. These engines are smart enough to recognize the degraded gas and respond by retarding engine timing to reduce output (probably by 10-20 horsepower). Despite the recalibration, the engine's still at a greater risk for hazardous early detonation (pinging), especially under high-load, high-temperature situations. So, if you're in a bind and can't find premium fuel, getting 87 will certainly work. But I'd recommend against making the change in the hopes of spending less on gas.
Here in San Diego, the savings is more than just a few cents. In addition to the inflated gas prices in San Diego, the price differential between 87 and 91 can be 30 cents/gallon. That can be an additional $250 a year! Last week I paid $1.929 for 87 (91 would have been $2.29/gallon).
Everybody's situation is different. In my opinion, just try it yourself for a few weeks and make your own decision. Good luck!
There are many, many articles out there about octane, but here's one that discusses the dangers early detonation: http://www.indianaobserver.com/2002/09/octane.html
Yes, a lot of sensible comments! snagiel, you gave a good advice on how to increase mileage. The owner's manual has more on that subject on page 5-17.
However, the gas choice is not related to how much we paid for the car at all!! Except of course avoiding those gas pumps that put in more water in their gas.
(start underline) All other things being equal, octane rating that is good for your car is that which is not producing the pinging of your engine. (end underline)
This has always been the primary criteria. In fact, you may look at page 10-3 of your owner's manual. I reproduce the fuel recommendation for sedans here for your convenience:
(shortened quote) Use unleaded regular gasoline with an octane rating of at least 87 ... For improved performance, use octane rating of at least 91 (end shortened quote)
And on page 10-4, under Octane rating tips, you may read on the use of lower octane: However, now and then you may notice light spark knock (pinging) for short time while accelerating or driving up hills. This is no cause for concern, because you get the greatest fuel benefit when there is light spark knock for a short time under heavy engine load.
For my other car (00 Maxima), the manual has the same recommendations. And I have discovered that after 30K miles, I get roughly 25.5 mpg on 87-octane and 24.5 on 91-octane. That engine I believe has a similar timing computer adjustment. Maybe - just maybe - it is a bit quieter with the 91 octane. Therefore I need to get something that measures noise, to be sure.
snagiel: Pinging, if persistent, is BAD for your engine, no question. However, be not afraid of occasional pinging (rapping metallic noise) that comes as a result of stepping on the gas pedal real hard. What I found on my Max, it is impossible to produce it on that engine. (I had that problem on some of my previous cars, especially when I bought ARCO gas. In fact, 1988 Mitsubishi Galant had to avoid ARCO 87 octane completely - it produced more than an occasional knock.) I cannot try hard acceleration on my G35 since it is still being broken in but some other folks may tell us about their experience with 87 octane, as eticketride did.
This may be a stupid question but what happens if you mix say a half tank of 89 octane with a half tank of 93 octane? Do the octanes mix in anyway, and do you get anything near a 91 octane? Does mixing gas work this way?
Thanks.
This is not scientific by any means, but if enthusiasts like us are talking and see a pattern, replacement brakes pads are on back order just as the first model turns a year old, I think Infiniti has a real problem they need to address. Just happy that the dealer has stood by me and taken care of me with a loaner car.
I just got my G35 and I live in LA too. Just out of curiosity, who's your dealer? I want to keep them in mind in case I run into a similar problem in the future.
Was a one year lease turn-in. Also have an '03 Jaguar X-Type that requires premium fuel.
In reading all the posts, some items are not crystal clear.
Does the G35 require 94 octane or 91 octane? Even my salesman is unsure. I know my Jag will not run well, if at all, on anything less than 94 octane. Is this true of the G35?
Are there other problems other than brake pads?
Any suggestions/input is appreciated.
BTW - the car drives like a dream.
Thank You.
The only downside to this is having to make two separate payment transactions at the pump.
On prices in San Diego, where are you getting your gas from? Look around. I just filled up at $1.81/gal for premium today. It was $1.83 a couple weeks ago. That's Costco. But even Mobil is about $1.85/gal for 87 and $2.05/gal for 91 (and they're usually the pricey one near my house). If the difference is more than 20 cents between 87 and 91, go find another gas station.
pmap "G35 Owners: What did you pay?" Apr 13, 2003 11:46am
Down below that first message, I see one with a lot of options that was quoted at $25 with 8,800 miles.
In any event, a 1/02 build date is one of the first. I took delivery in late June of a 05/02 build car. Take a look at the last 6 digits of the VIN. That will tell you how old your car is. My 05/02 car is VIN 0147xx = almost the 15,000th car built.
re:gas - opinions will vary, but I use premium (93).
The car originally had a sticker of over $34,500 with all the options and was originally sold in May of 2002. I checked many different dealers and the ones who had the used '03s with the same options were all selling at higher price point(s). I do not mind a little overpaying for a solid vehicle. Am also using a good dealer who will take care of any issues and offer free car washes. These factors mean more to me than paying a little less and working with a lousy dealer. This car is a true rocket and handles very well.
Am still a little uncertain about the octane? In reading many different discussions, I do not see a consensus. Some use 87 and hear a pinging and some use 94 and get less gas mileage. 91 octane (if you can find it) seems to be the best of all worlds?
Maybe I got ripped off..at this point it is too late and I just have to enjoy driving this little rocket.
Let's get back to problems and solutions. Has anyone installed a DVD player? If so, what do you recommend?
Also seen people that have installed a Garmin Street Pilot III either one fits pretty nicely into the hole where the NAV would be. Cost~$800. Advantage can take out of car and use in other car/rentals.
I've also seen very nice installs that put a head unit with pop out LCD into the hole where the NAV would be but that option can get really pricey. Cost ~$4000 + instal. Advantage can use to play DVD movies can use a truck screen LCD.
Another possible option is to install a PC in the trunk and an LCD in the front.
Bezahar, please let us know how you like the Navman! The Garmin Street Pilot is coming in an updated version next month, so I may do that, as well.
As for the brake issue..after much research and calling four dealers: there is a brake part shortage. Nissan/Infinity is/are correcting this as quickly as possible to avoid negative press. What manufacturer wants their vehicle to get bad press due to a safety feature? Remember the Ford Exploaders? What happened to sales after the tire issues?
Getting my brake pads replaced next week on a 6,600 mile used '03! Also asked then to sand all the rust from the rotors.
Don
The main problem is the intermittent and variable sticking-type creaky noises that seem to have to do with the vertical rubber stripping at the door jambs. If I close the door over a sock, the noises diminish or disappear. The sock drops out into the street when I open the door - it's not a practical solution. Also I don't hear those noises if I drive along while holding the door open with my left arm - which proves it's coming somewhere in the area of the jamb.
I can't seem to pinpoint it. Is anyone else having this problem? Any solutions???
1. about 25 (mostly highway)
2. about 22 (70% city)
3. about 26 (mostly highway)
Since I am still (technically) in the break-in period, I have not driven like a maniac, but I have not been pussyfooting around either. I have kept the RPMs in check (mostly south of 4k) but the speeds have been reasonable -- around 75 on the highway, sprinkled with short overtaking bursts!:)
I use premium (91 octane) -- like I have done for the past 11 years on my 1993 Camry SE (v6 MT) and on my 1998 Maxima SE (MT).
In the more distant past (say, 15 years ago), premium gas was associated (it may well have been an old wives' tale though I suspect there was some truth to it) with more of the additives (detergents) that inhibited carbon build-up and kept the system clean. So, some would use premium gas occasionally (say every fifth or sixth fill) just to keep the system free of carbon build-up, EVEN if their car did not need premium gasoline. However, that argument does not hold water now -- all grades of gasoline (better brands, at least) have enough of the detergents.
Since the octane rating has directly to do with whether or not the engine will ping excessively, the decision to use a particular grade of fuel or not is fairly straightforward -- use it if it does not ping excessively!:) In my case, I trust the manufacturer to tell me the fuel that is optimal for the car. However, I recognize that all of us differ in how we look at avoidable expenses -- in my opinion, it does not necessarily have to do with affordability. People with a lot of money are often very particular (euphimism for thrifty!).
Regarding the old wives tales, they are just that. I have been in the petroleum business since before most participants in this forum were born. Therefore I should know how gasolines are blended. On my Maxima, I found that the cheapest gas will give me about the same performance and mileage as the most expensive (ie, highest octane) gas and still no pinging. I expect the same on the G35 but have not had the chance to test it fully.
I love your last sentence. Yes, being thrifty has more to do with how well one can accumulate the money as opposed to how much money one has available.
Another problem is that the left head lamp seems oscillating more than the right. wondering if anyone has the same problem? Thanks!
The car is at the dealer now and they gave me an I35 which seems slower (maybe heavier) and has far more body roll. BTW - the car vibrates and has the same "buzzing" sound people mention in most I35 posts. Anyone have this issue with the G35?
What are the engine differences between the G35 and the I35? I thought the two cars have the same engines? They definitely do NOT drive the same and the G35 seems far superior.
The shifter assembly cylinders also have a tendancy to break (no recall to date). All are easy fixes and tend to be more problamatic on the first G35s off the assembly line.
The rear brake rotors and pads may become a recall soon, according to my service person. Nothing about the front rotors and pads.
Hope this is of help to someone.
If you want good paint, buy a Jag..they have a 12 layer paint process.
Anyone have information regarding the Bridgestone tires?
Does anybody smell class action....?
From a standstill, the car does the same thing. Once I get beyond 3000 - 3500 rpm, there is no power, nothing, I can't accelerate.
The only way I can accelerate is to keep rpm's below 3000, and accelerate gradually.
Trying to get to the dealership ASAP. Any similar problems?
Similarly, comparing the G35 sedan and coupe, the coupe has improved intake, exhaust, and (possibly) engine management. Nissan claims 20 HP more in the coupe.