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Comments
Nope I dont have any tinting.... and I live in Northern Virginia, about 13 miles from Wash. DC, which is home to quite a few radio stations, and sometimes I cant even make out what they are saying.
Its probably something I should tell my dealer about when I get my first oil change, but it comes and goes... I hate those problems cause they always look at you like your an idiot
1north -- I live N.V. also, we had a thread going on FA about those of us near DC getting together for an owners meet... check out the thread.
--brian
I went with a set of 16" wheels and dedicated snow tires for my second and third winters in Wisconsin and have three observations:
1. I'll never drive in snow again on all season tires. The worst dedicated snows are way better than the best all season tires.
2. By driving 10-15k miles on my snows for 2 winters, my potenzas lasted until I had 90k on the odometer and they're very expensive to replace while the snows in 16" size are cheap (relatively).
3. When it comes time to replace the 17" take a
good hard look at the Michlein Pilot Sport A/S. They are expensive ~$200 each but the handling improvement is simply tremendous.
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tests/testResultsPerformance.jsp?perfType=W
The Michelin's are good tires, but personally I think the Bridgestones would be a better all around tire.
Scott
But there is some sacrifice involved. The ride is a little more intimate with the surface (slightly harsher), the tire has a huge amount of rayon for high speed capability so they flat spot for the first few miles, and they don't like the grooved freeways here in Socal (they tend to follow the groove as it wanders from left to right).
It could be that the LS is not tuned for this particular tire.
But on a corner this tire has tremendous grip. The breakaway is silent, predictable, and smooth.
Some tires lose their grip and give up. The SO-3's keep on trying to hold on even when the laws of physics say it's impossible.
Incredible tire but Grandma wouldn't like the ride. It's worth the trade off to me.
But I will feel guilty if I bait someone following me into a corner and they end up in the weeds.
I also have chip in the paint bout the size of a pin head. The dealer is sending me some touch up pain (Twilight Blue) and instructed me to use just a safety pin to apply it. Then redo again if needed. They do seem to chip easy.
- The Seat Belt Noise
- The A/C Compressor Noise
- The Center Console going inoperative (which I am tempted to report to NHTSA as a safety issue - no ability to defog windows)
- Three rattles the dealer can seem to hear
Now, I have a steering wheel vibration at 60 - 70. Yes, the wheels have been balanced. It is seems to happen when I release the accelerator, but not apply the brakes. Anyone else? Solutions?
But at least I get an Infiniti as a loaner and not the Escort the Mercedes dealer gave me.
I am also thinking about putting the Xpel protective film on the front bumper and hood of the car. I have had this on my Corvette for over a year, and am very pleased with it.
I did the same thing. I could not find the region setting either. In order to clear the blinking -----, follow the instructions in the manual. You need to drive in a couple of circles with the AC and Radio Off. Once you do that it is calibrated and it will work again. I am not sure what is going on with not being able to set the region.
Good Luck
N2
Compass deviation setting.
The manual is wrong concerning the deviation setting. To set the deviation or area setting turn off the ignition then hold down compass setting button while turning the ignition on. After a few seconds the numbers will come up, in my case it was #4 for San Diego area. Cycle through to correct # for your area and you will be done and be happy with an accurate setting.
Thanks so much! I am out of town (I flew) but will follow your suggestions as soon as I get home Friday. I had not drove in a few circles in a parking lot as suggested, but has drove around my neighborhood. I probably did not turn in circles tight enough either. I will be sure to do the ignition thing too. Thanks again!
pat
I am also experiencing the noisy AC problem. Mostly sounds like a metallic whine, kinda nasty though.
In general, I am very happy with the G, great performance and handling, good looks too, but the AC noise and CD skipping problems actually become significant detractors in the long term driving experience. I mentioned both problems in my J.D. Powers survey.
Well, I'm going in for my 1st oil change soon and will talk to the service folks about these issues. We will see how it goes with Infiniti service.
Desert Platinum/Graphite
Premium Leather, winter pkg
2200 miles
Speaking of the CD changer. I belive the units are manufactured by Clarion and designed by bose. I had a 2001 Nissan PF with the 180watt Bose system and had the CD changer locked up on me. I took it in an attempt to retrieve the CDs (I was told I may not get my CDs back). It was manufactured by Clarion for bose according to the labeling. I believe our G changers are nearly Identical to the ones in the PFs.
There is another thread about some of these issues over at g35driver.com:
http://g35driver.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=1&Number=2186&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&part=
-- Mark
If I am in Greenville, I will keep my eyes peeled! My boss is from there and is now in Pawleys Island.
We do not have an Infiniti dealer here, hence the trip to Charleston.
A question for someone. What is the small lamp in the side of the high-beam lamp housing that looks like a flashlight bulb?
Scott
Have to say that the '02 I30i I got as a loaner was very boaty compared to the G, but it was interesting to compare and was better than any loaner I ever got from a dealer before.
The service guys were very professional, easy to deal with and handled the service issues well. Here are the basics:
1. Oil Change
advised to use dino oil till 10k miles, so that's how we went with that.
2. A/C Compressor whine/noise
Advisor very familiar with the issue. He said Infiniti engineering has announced an impending fix that will involve a newly
engineered compressor. They said I should expect a call from them in 30-60 days to discuss scheduling the fix. I good with that.
3. CD skipping, mistracking and general bad performance
I described my experience, they checked it out but could not re-create the problem.
Solution is to order a new changer/head unit and swap out the old unit.
This point alone is very cool from my perspective as an owner. They actually listened to me and decided that even though they could not re-create the problem it was worth customer satisfaction to just change out the unit. Very happy with that response. Have to wait 2 weeks to get the unit then do the install. Hope it fixes the problem.
I was very happy with this service experience. It was the least frustrating and easiest trip to the dealer I have ever had. I will have to see how the follow-up goes.
FYI, Parts folks said that splash guards are "way back ordered" due to initial poor body color match issues. He figured it might be as long as 4-6 months. No big deal to me, I'll just wait but I thought I would pass this info on.
Happy Driving
I do not have the Bose problem or the AC noise problem. Is the AC noise problem just a loud fan or a high pitch noise or another noise? Just curious.
Speaking of cruising. I was acutally on my way home from Charlotte about 6 weeks ago when I got my first ever ticket in 18 years of driving. I was doing 84mph in a 60mph zone. Less than 2 weeks later I got my second ever ticket 72 in 55. Since then I have become very familiar with the Cruise control operations. It is so quiet and smooth I didn't even feel like I was going that fast.
I know what you mean about tickets. I had a 1986 Mazda 323 for 10 years and not one speeding ticket. It had a 1.8 liter 4 banger with 85 HP. Anytime I approached 75 MPH or higher the engine sounded like it was in the passenger seat with me! As soon as I upgraded to a Maxima SE in 1996....within 2 months, BAM! First ever speeding ticket. 85 in a 55. Trooper was nice enough to discount it to 75 mph.
Any, When I test drove a G35 two months the sales rep said to gradually bring the speed up. I was doing 80 and it felt like 55.
I remember speed limiters use to be very common in cars back in the 60's and 70's. My brother had a 1968 Buick Electra 225. I remember he use to set it manually at 65 and anytime he went over 65 it would sound like a muffled alarmed clock going off. I would like to see a speed limiter on the G, but obviously with updated technology.
My dealer is Infiniti of Pleasanton, East Bay area of N.Cal/San Francisco metro zone. I had one of the best ever car buying experiences there in 25 years of vehicle ownership. So far, very happy with the service crew too.
happy driving
pfschim
we had the same problem when we tried to program our avalon to the 'homelink' feature. it turned out that our garage door had a 'rolling code' feature for added security. we had to bring out the garage door manual, disable that feature, and then link it to the car. now everything works smoothly. i am pretty sure we were able to turn the 'rolling code' feature back on once the control was programmed.
Thanks for the tip. I guess I will go find my garage door opener manual and see what I can do..
I used the "HomeLink Instructions" card included with my G35 owner's manual to successfully program my two garage door openers with rolling code. The instructions on the card makes programming the HomeLink simpler than the owner's manual. If your garage doors have rolling code, you must use the "smart/learn" program button on the garage door opener.
John
Linh
I wonder if it could be when backing up for a distance, braking to a stop, then moving forward could be the cause?
Scott