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I believe you are experiencing what was talked about on the FreshAlloy.com G35 forum. Many talked about a thunk when they shifted from park to reverse.
I had a 2001 PF LE and had this same noise. It seemed that the masses arrived at a decision that it was the ABS system making the noise. It has something to do with preparing itself to function properly. My G35 has had this noise since new and I have no probs now at 8200 miles.
The noise is indeed most likely the ABS self test. This is described in the manual which warns that you can hear a noise (to me it sounds like a single drum on a pan)as well as feel pulsation in the brake pedal. The test only occurs when you reach 8-10 mph, so if you creep around the parking lot for a while nothing will happen. I thought I was running over something for a while until I looked through the manual. My friend who owns a Mitsubishi has a similar test of the ABS which sounds a whole lot worse.
I have a loaded G35 (except nav) silver w/ graphite interior with about 8000 miles on her.
About 7 weeks ago, it wouldn't immediately start in the morning. It took about 6 tries (turning over strongly but not firing) for it to fire up. I didn't bring it to the dealer then, since I felt it was probably just a fluke. It didn't happen again for several weeks, but about 3 weeks ago, it happened 3 times in a 1 week period (each under different circumstances), and the last time it wouldn't start for about 10 minutes of trying continuously (I was actually on the phone with the infiniti road service when it finally started). I brought it directly to the infiniti dealer (only 5 miles from my work) and left it with them. They tried to recreate the problem for several hours and finally it started the same behavior. They hooked up the computer to it and found out that it wasn't reading a proper key code from the encoded key. I had to go home and get all of the keys so they could reprogram them. Since they did that, I think that it might have happened once again, but it only took two tries for it to kick over. If it happens again, I'll have to return to the dealership though.
My other main issue is the slow response in the auto climate control. I live in Maine where the daily temps vary considerably (from 50 in the AM to 90 in the afternoon). I find myself having to continually change the temperature setting in order to maintain a comfortable temperature. In the mornings when it's cool, I have to drop it down to the mid 60s in order to get any cool air flowing (its 50 outside, but warm in the car), in the afternoon, if its over 70 outside, I have to raise the temp up to 70-73 or it is freezing in the cabin. If the outside temp goes over 85, I have to raise the inside setting to 75+ to keep it from freezing me out.... None of my other auto climate cars ever reacted like this. The dealer spent quite a bit of time in it and agreed that it did not cut the fan back properly when the outside temp was high and the inside of the car was already cooled and said that they were going to try it out on other G35s on the lot. Anyone else experienced this?
Here in DC it hasn't been cool for a long time (except today - 70 in the rain...) so I don't know about the cool weather. I keep my setting at 72, and I've noticed that sometimes it takes a while to get the fan speed down to level 2 (it never goes below that in the sun and 95 degrees but that's OK) and sometimes I just turn the fan down but don't adjust the temp.
dthobart: I live in Oklahoma and we have had similiar climate as you describe. I have my auto AC set at 75 which is recommended in the manual. The car has remained quite comfortable for me throughout the day. The temperature has varied from 60 - 70 in the mornings to the high 90s in the afternoon. The car is in the garage at night, but sets in the blazing sun during the day. I usually keep the sunshade open on the roof, but not opened. I have been impressed that I can do this and heat of the sun does not come through the glass. I have tested this and find that it make little difference if the shade is opened or closed.
Finally got rain today and tested the wipers. I find them to be very noisy. The lower-half of the left wiper chatters across the windshield while the right wiper makes a noise I can't put into words when the wiper is up. It's quite annoying. Anyone else have this problem? I guess I will be calling the service department tomorrow.
Yes, I have a similar problem in the Auto A/C modes. Starting with the temp set at 75, I find that the fan speed seems to run with a mind of its own and the A/C literally freezes me out. Then I move the thermostat up degree by degree to 78 or 79 to reach a comfortable compromise. Most of the time it is easier just to put the A/C on manual and control it myself. BTW, I am in Houston and the outside temperature has been ranging from 82F at night to 99F during the day.
One more try. Is anyone having problems with these plates being easily dented and scratched? Both of my front doorsill plates are dented and the right front plate is scratched.
I plan to ask the dealer to replace them as I have never had this problem with Hondas, Corvette, Porsches, and an Explorer. I believe the plates in the G35 are just made of a really soft aluminum material. Has anyone else had these plates replaced?
Like many of you I think the G35 is a great car - especially when compared to others in this class.
I have one issue - the front drivers seat has "slop" in it and moves slightly when taking off or stopping. Two dealers and Nissan of NA claim this is typical "?". Irriates the **** out of me.
The other unusual item I have noticed in the morning after I back out of the garage is a noise in the front of the vehicle. I have been told this is the ABS system. It is not very loud and the excuse seems reasonable - does this make sense to anyone?
Any ideas on the seat would be greatly appreciated.
Seat movement is not normal, and I have read that some have had their seat rails replaced, one member at freshalloy even met with an Infiniti engineer, who took his seat rails back to Japan for study.
The ABS system will do a cycle, self-test after backing up and then moving forward, strange, but not loud noise from right front at about 5-10mph. Normal, and even refered to in the manual.
You may have been part of the last posting but I know some said they had the plastic over the sills. It appeared that the sills were scratched but it was the plastic. I have not taken mine off because I want to preserve them as long as possible. However, I do not have any visable dents in them. I have about 5,000 miles on it so far. I bet they would exchange them out if you take it back to the dealer. They should not be that soft!
I got my G35 in last night and I was driving out around and trying to test out the car and see if the prob. listed in the page occurred. Luckily none of these problem occurred, the car ran pretty smooth and I haven't noticed any AC problem. One thing that I am really concerned about is the rear body that contains the trunk... I noticed that the side of the trunk is pretty weak and I can imagine something like a set of golf clubs would punch a hole through the rear side of the car. Anyone of you guys attempted to protect the rear side of the car with any kind of the board? if so, would you please give us some tips for making one? Thanks!
I don't know if you are referring to the lining of the trunk or the sheetmetal. If you are talking about the "felt" lining, someone mentioned in an earlier post (this or the main discussion area) that they had a heavy package slide in the trunk and actually dented the sheetmetal (pushed it out). They bought some styrofoam and cut it to shape and placed it behind the liner to avoid that happening again.
Have my G35 for one week now and everything is running great. I don't have any of the problems that have been posted: AC Noise, seat rails, "clunking" of ABS system, etc. The only thing that bothers me is a "high-pitched" vibration in the front speakers when I listen to the AM radio. I spend alot of time in the car (sales) and sometimes listen to am talk radio. Don't seem to have this with FM or CD player. Any suggestions? Anyone else with similar noise?
Just noticed something interesting today. When the power window lock is on, the driver's controls for all of the passemger windows is turned off as well. I've never had a car act this way...
Okay - the air conditioner thing is really starting to bug me. I didn't notice it as much when it was new---- but now I've had my first old change and it seems like the problem is getting worse.
But what can I do? The dealer won't replace the air conditioner compressor unless Infinit puts out a service bulletin. Right?
Have had my G since March 2/02. Currently have 9400 miles on it. Front brake pads are 70% worn and rear are 60% worn. Reminds me of the same problem I had on a Q45 which I had in the early 90's. The last vehicle I had I went 53000 miles on original pads.
It is probably to soon for most of you as U.S. G's only started arriving early April, but I would like to know if anyone else out there is experiencing this problem. TKS
Does anyone else out there with Xenons have the lower stack Halogens come on at the same time as the Xenons. It tends to "blur" the brighter light of the Xenons, and I was wondering if My G had a malfunction. This occurs on low beam.
Yes, the lower lights come on when you turn on the HID, but at reduced power. I think they call it "driving lights" or something like that. It's not a malfunction. Doesn't seem bright enough to blur the HIDs to me.....??
Hadn't noticed it. The lower lights are the fog lights. Check your fog lights setting to see if they are turned on (it is on the turn signal stick, just to the right of the headlight control.
Love my Twilight Blue G35 but heard that the color is being discontinued on the 2003.5 model. Also heard that the trunk is being redesigned. Supposedly, that square release in the center of the trunk is going away and the "infiniti" letters will stretch across the entire trunk. Hate to think I'll have an "old school" NEW car so quickly. Anybody know anything?
I didn't remember the lower lights being on all of the time when I first got the car. Thanks for the hint on the fogs. I didn't realize there was a separate switch for them.
Both true. The new trunk lid should start showing up in October. The ability to open the trunk without the key is gone, too. I like the current trunk better than the pictures of the new trunk I've seen; not the same as seeing it in person, though. You have a rare, dicontinued color. Enjoy it!
Thank you for your opinion. I agree. I'm thinking they replaced the REAR pads and "resurfaced" the REAR rotors, but typed in FRONT on the work order. The rear calipers are clean too. I wasn't charged anything because this was all covered under the 3yr/36K brake warranty.
As far as the swirl marks go on the rear rotors, those are not grooves that could be made by a rotor spinning on a lathe. It looks like they used a handheld angle grinder. Or, if they sanded them down after putting them on a lathe, they were way too aggressive. My research says the rotors should be perfectly smooth. I'll take some pictures to document this. I think my service advisor has some explaining to do when I see him next week. And maybe some new rear rotors too.
I have one too, and I think it will be cool to have the first design, an original so to speak! I love having the ability to open the trunk without the key when it is unlocked. I store my cover in the trunk and this makes it easy with your hands full.
go to the g35 forum on fresahlloy.com; there is a sticky thread at the top concerning a/c and noise - a replacement compressor is the fix. I had mine replaced but since it's cold I won't know for sure until spring if it's fixed.
I bought the Infiniti front end mask a few weeks after getting my G35. And since then its been folded up nicely in my trunk
The truth is that I am a bit nervous about the damage to the finish of the car that I've been reading about at other car forums.
I was wondering if there was anyone out there that has been using a mask for an extended period of time and what level of maintenance you use as a result... I know that the car must be clean and preferrably with as thick a layer of wax/protectant as you can in the areas in contact with the paint.
I also know that you can't let the car get wet and leave the mask on as that will also damage the paint...
I suppose my big inquiry is if I can leave the thing on for a few weeks at a time (given the car is garaged every night, relatively clean all the time, and it doesn't rain in the period I leave it on) I do 95% freeway driving about 80 miles a day and the mask seems to fit VERY snug with no apparent areas that would "flap" or vibrate at speed...
There have been several threads on this at freshalloy.com . There are both verbal descriptions and some pictures (which may be photoshopped rather than actual, I'm not sure).
I have a 95 Maxima GLE that has 190k on it. My driving habits are virtually identical to yours except that I drive 50-75 miles each way every day(Different clients, different mileage).
My 95 went the first 50k and the front end was starting to look like most unprotected high mileage cars, almost lightly sandblasted with an occasional small chip. (I also kept it very clean and well waxed.)
I added the front end mask from Nissan at about 50k and there's been no additional damage to the front end. Matter of fact, now the front end pretty well matches the rest of the car and at 190k it still looks pretty good.
Bottom line, your approach to using the front end mask (cleaned and waxed, not left on when wet for more than the day you get caught in the rain, removed and washed and waxed when necessary) will eliminate far more damage to the front end of your car than leaving it un-protected.
The hardest part of all was talking the wife into putting the front end mask in her washing machine when I did get caught out in the rain:)
Yeah, looks like photoshopped...but if that is the case, both trunk designs look good to me, won't matter much as long as I get the deal I'm looking for. I'd rather wait right now than pay MSRP or something close to it.
At about 14k miles, the front end of my G35 is showing a few small scratches and the occasional chip from a larger rock... Right now it is imperceptible to most others but of course I see each one like a gunshot wound in my poor car
The ivory has some very distinct advantages, impossible to see swirls or light scratches in the clearcoat, impossible to see that little bit of wax residue you missed during waxing, etc, but there are some distinct disadvantages as well... Chips show like mad, anything that discolors the paint slightly can be seen more easily in the light color...
The specific kind of damage to the car surface I was worried about using the mask was the light scratching and abrasion marks one might expect at locations where the mask makes tight edge contact with the finish...
In your experience for using one for so long, did you notice wear marks in the paint of your Max where the mask "rubbed" against it?
I read a message posted on this board where an individual mentioned that they put a new Mask on their brand new car for a drive down to LA 300 miles one way... when He got there he said that there were scratches in his paint in contact areas that took him hours to buff out... That was one of the things that had me a bit leary...
I know what you mean about the wounds. Why does it always seems to be someone I love (in the family) who puts the first mark on the new car?
The 95 GLE is a color called Black Emerald, very deep green metallic color that actually looks black in some lighting conditions. I also have a 00 SE in Sterling Mist which is a very light silver.
I have used nose masks on both of the cars and there is absolutely no abrasion marks. Now if I get caught in a rain storm with it on, I have to take it off and clean it really well before it goes on again.
In my experience, the only way you get any kind of abrasion is if something is either on the car or on the underside of the nose mask when you put it on.
I imagine that if you just put it on and left it on for weeks at a time, got caught in the rain a time or two, you could get some marks at the edges. (I'm guessing that's what the people who complain about damage actually did regardless of what they say.) I have a relative who bought a new Odessey, put the full nose mask on and didn't take it off for 6 months. When I asked how the underside was, they said they'd never looked!!
I still think you'll be fine with the way you maintain the car normally, especially if you get the factory nose masks which do fit very tight, sometimes so tight that they are difficult to get on the car the first time.
I just got my ivory pearl G35 last Saturday. I am loving it so far! I have also been following lots of forums on the car and notice several common complaints. The two that annoy me at the moment are the excessive brake dust which really shows on this color and gets all over your clothes when you touch the car, and the poorly lit clock. I hear there is a TSB on the clock, so maybe we will see a solution for that but how long does this brake dust go on?
Wife has same color. We are at 10K+ miles and still have brake dust. It is caused by the brake pads used. You can buy some aftermarket (we may) brake pads that significantly reduce the dust and improve (hard as it is to believe) the braking performance. They are usually made out of kevlar or carbon composites.
Scott- Any info that you can give on the types of brake pads you are talking about here? I am interested. If you have model #'s that would help even more!! Thanks...Matt
Comments
It's really not a problem.
URL: http://forums.freshalloy.com/ubbthreads/postlist.php?Cat=&Board=UBB25
Search for the thread: "Difficulty moving shifter from P to R on incline"
Cheers!
Mark
June '03 - G35 Coupe for me
About 7 weeks ago, it wouldn't immediately start in the morning. It took about 6 tries (turning over strongly but not firing) for it to fire up. I didn't bring it to the dealer then, since I felt it was probably just a fluke. It didn't happen again for several weeks, but about 3 weeks ago, it happened 3 times in a 1 week period (each under different circumstances), and the last time it wouldn't start for about 10 minutes of trying continuously (I was actually on the phone with the infiniti road service when it finally started). I brought it directly to the infiniti dealer (only 5 miles from my work) and left it with them. They tried to recreate the problem for several hours and finally it started the same behavior. They hooked up the computer to it and found out that it wasn't reading a proper key code from the encoded key. I had to go home and get all of the keys so they could reprogram them. Since they did that, I think that it might have happened once again, but it only took two tries for it to kick over. If it happens again, I'll have to return to the dealership though.
My other main issue is the slow response in the auto climate control. I live in Maine where the daily temps vary considerably (from 50 in the AM to 90 in the afternoon). I find myself having to continually change the temperature setting in order to maintain a comfortable temperature. In the mornings when it's cool, I have to drop it down to the mid 60s in order to get any cool air flowing (its 50 outside, but warm in the car), in the afternoon, if its over 70 outside, I have to raise the temp up to 70-73 or it is freezing in the cabin. If the outside temp goes over 85, I have to raise the inside setting to 75+ to keep it from freezing me out.... None of my other auto climate cars ever reacted like this. The dealer spent quite a bit of time in it and agreed that it did not cut the fan back properly when the outside temp was high and the inside of the car was already cooled and said that they were going to try it out on other G35s on the lot. Anyone else experienced this?
Regards,
Dan
Any suggestions appreciated.
Both of my front doorsill plates are dented and the right front plate is scratched.
I plan to ask the dealer to replace them as I have never had this problem with Hondas, Corvette, Porsches, and an Explorer. I believe the plates in the G35 are just made of a really soft aluminum material. Has anyone else had these plates replaced?
I have one issue - the front drivers seat has "slop" in it and moves slightly when taking off or stopping. Two dealers and Nissan of NA claim this is typical "?". Irriates the **** out of me.
The other unusual item I have noticed in the morning after I back out of the garage is a noise in the front of the vehicle. I have been told this is the ABS system. It is not very loud and the excuse seems reasonable - does this make sense to anyone?
Any ideas on the seat would be greatly appreciated.
Bud S.
The ABS system will do a cycle, self-test after backing up and then moving forward, strange, but not loud noise from right front at about 5-10mph. Normal, and even refered to in the manual.
Hope this helps
Scott
Kinda strange.
I have an '00 Altima and my windows do the same thing.
But what can I do? The dealer won't replace the air conditioner compressor unless Infinit puts out a service bulletin. Right?
NT
It is probably to soon for most of you as U.S. G's only started arriving early April, but I would like to know if anyone else out there is experiencing this problem. TKS
Scott
As far as the swirl marks go on the rear rotors, those are not grooves that could be made by a rotor spinning on a lathe. It looks like they used a handheld angle grinder. Or, if they sanded them down after putting them on a lathe, they were way too aggressive. My research says the rotors should be perfectly smooth. I'll take some pictures to document this. I think my service advisor has some explaining to do when I see him next week. And maybe some new rear rotors too.
Thanks.
I bought the Infiniti front end mask a few weeks after getting my G35. And since then its been folded up nicely in my trunk
The truth is that I am a bit nervous about the damage to the finish of the car that I've been reading about at other car forums.
I was wondering if there was anyone out there that has been using a mask for an extended period of time and what level of maintenance you use as a result... I know that the car must be clean and preferrably with as thick a layer of wax/protectant as you can in the areas in contact with the paint.
I also know that you can't let the car get wet and leave the mask on as that will also damage the paint...
I suppose my big inquiry is if I can leave the thing on for a few weeks at a time (given the car is garaged every night, relatively clean all the time, and it doesn't rain in the period I leave it on) I do 95% freeway driving about 80 miles a day and the mask seems to fit VERY snug with no apparent areas that would "flap" or vibrate at speed...
Thanks for any info in advance!
Faenor/Dane4
My 95 went the first 50k and the front end was starting to look like most unprotected high mileage cars, almost lightly sandblasted with an occasional small chip. (I also kept it very clean and well waxed.)
I added the front end mask from Nissan at about 50k and there's been no additional damage to the front end. Matter of fact, now the front end pretty well matches the rest of the car and at 190k it still looks pretty good.
Bottom line, your approach to using the front end mask (cleaned and waxed, not left on when wet for more than the day you get caught in the rain, removed and washed and waxed when necessary) will eliminate far more damage to the front end of your car than leaving it un-protected.
The hardest part of all was talking the wife into putting the front end mask in her washing machine when I did get caught out in the rain:)
At about 14k miles, the front end of my G35 is showing a few small scratches and the occasional chip from a larger rock... Right now it is imperceptible to most others but of course I see each one like a gunshot wound in my poor car
The ivory has some very distinct advantages, impossible to see swirls or light scratches in the clearcoat, impossible to see that little bit of wax residue you missed during waxing, etc, but there are some distinct disadvantages as well... Chips show like mad, anything that discolors the paint slightly can be seen more easily in the light color...
The specific kind of damage to the car surface I was worried about using the mask was the light scratching and abrasion marks one might expect at locations where the mask makes tight edge contact with the finish...
In your experience for using one for so long, did you notice wear marks in the paint of your Max where the mask "rubbed" against it?
I read a message posted on this board where an individual mentioned that they put a new Mask on their brand new car for a drive down to LA 300 miles one way... when He got there he said that there were scratches in his paint in contact areas that took him hours to buff out... That was one of the things that had me a bit leary...
Is your Max light or Dark colored?
Thanks Again for the info!
Feanor/Dane4
The 95 GLE is a color called Black Emerald, very deep green metallic color that actually looks black in some lighting conditions. I also have a 00 SE in Sterling Mist which is a very light silver.
I have used nose masks on both of the cars and there is absolutely no abrasion marks. Now if I get caught in a rain storm with it on, I have to take it off and clean it really well before it goes on again.
In my experience, the only way you get any kind of abrasion is if something is either on the car or on the underside of the nose mask when you put it on.
I imagine that if you just put it on and left it on for weeks at a time, got caught in the rain a time or two, you could get some marks at the edges. (I'm guessing that's what the people who complain about damage actually did regardless of what they say.) I have a relative who bought a new Odessey, put the full nose mask on and didn't take it off for 6 months. When I asked how the underside was, they said they'd never looked!!
I still think you'll be fine with the way you maintain the car normally, especially if you get the factory nose masks which do fit very tight, sometimes so tight that they are difficult to get on the car the first time.
Scott
Scott