Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • stevekstevek Member Posts: 362
    It has been just about six month, Magnacore still reviewing the "faulty wires", so they will not send me a new set or a refund.... time to take legal action
  • lark6lark6 Member Posts: 2,565
    Thermostats are easy jobs, Loosh. I've replaced them on my old VW and on the Studebaker (160F, used to be 180F but a fix to avoid cracking valve seats).

    Ed
  • outback_97outback_97 Member Posts: 130
    John: Check your email, I sent you some info.

    The consensus on this from another site (nasioc):
    1) The clunk is annoying and disconcerting, but poses no threat to safety or steering.
    2) I haven't found anyone that's actually fixed it, but supposedly it can be reduced or eliminated.
    3) Most have just accepted it as another Subaru "quirk"

    Two threads of interest (note that '00 models aren't discussed, but they are included in the TSB):

    http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=91- 409

    http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=36- 8718

    If anyone has gotten it fixed, let us know.

    utahsteve
  • jhayman2jhayman2 Member Posts: 3
    Steve,

    I got the file, thanks. I find it hard to believe that no one knows of anyone getting it fixed. I have an app. to have mine looked at, "once again" this coming weds. I will be "locked and loaded" with the TSB. We will see what happens!

    "Subaru quirk".....man I hope not. I hope this is something that can be fixed!! This thing bothers me sooooooo much that I would not get another subaru because of it. I paid too much for this car to have "clunks". Plus it appears this has been a "clunk" for many years in a ton of Subaru cars. Man, that sounds like Chevy or Ford type of work, not Subaru. I love the AWD but will be a tad disappointed if this ends up a quirk.

    Also, thanks for those links. I had done a google search and had found them earilier. You sure get around on a lot of bb's. Keep up the good work, and thanks again for your time and energy.

    John
  • francophilefrancophile Member Posts: 667
    I only hear it rarely, at low speeds, over bumps, with the wheel turned. That's what I call a quirk, and it's something I can live with -- once I'm convinced that it is not something actually maladjusted or broken.

    If you are hearing a lot of 'clunks' under a wider array of driving situations, you may have something more going on, or you may have a severe case of the 'quirk'. You should definitely have that kind of thing looked at and corrected. At the same time, please understand that those of us who think of it as a minor issue do so because, for us, on our cars, that's all it is.

    Cheers,
    -wdb
  • fargfamfargfam Member Posts: 30
    I've recently noticed a loud humming noise coming from up front on my new 03 XS. It only happens between the speeds of 60-70 mph and seems to be in time with the engine rpm. Tires were inflated at 46-47 upon purchase and are now at 32 all the way around. First thing I'll try is a 29 front/30 back combonation and then I'll see if it also occurs in different gears. Any other suggestions? Again, I can't tell if its tire, wind or engine noise except that its in front. Also, I don't feel any vibrating when this occurs.
  • junkherjunkher Member Posts: 27
    Hey -Mr. Hayman.

    I have also been told that MANY of the obnoxious noises these Outbacks make are simply "quirks" of the car by the dealer. One reader pointed out my Superman hearing when I complained of such annoyances. It appears by reading that those who watch and write responses to many of these posts do not mind these quirks because they love their vehicle for one reason or another. It is wonderful to like your purchase. Admittedly, there are advantages to this vehicle, AWD, cargo room, safety factors, along with other reasons that made me want the car to begin with. They also hold a price tag not as horrible as some other vehicles in this category.
    I as well also expected a lot from the simple fact that I related Subaru with quality. While others will undoubtably disagree, I relate quality NOT ONLY with factors of safety, i.e. AWD-etc., but with a vehicle that is quiet enough to at least converse with out distractive transmission whines at highway speed and clunks etc. and lower speeds. Having the dealer say they are unrepairable "quirks" does not help. I too hope that Subaru "irons out" some of these annoyances. They keep Subaru on my ? list of vehicles.

    I will be first in line- -OK, Maybe Third, when they improve on the internal noise factors.
    They ARE fun to drive if you just crank the tunes!
  • once_for_allonce_for_all Member Posts: 1,640
    some common humming type noises: front and/or rear license plates; cross bars on the roof rack lose. Doesn't sound like an engine thing or it would happen at other speeds too.

    John
  • fargfamfargfam Member Posts: 30
    Thanks John,

    It's amazing what you don't think of! I'll investigate.

    Matt
  • tucstantucstan Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1993 Legacy with 115,000 miles on it and have never replaced the timing belt. Maintenance manual says it should be replaced at 60,000 miles so I know I may be pushing my luck. Two knowledgeable mechanics I spoke to said that the belts rarely go before 90,000 miles. Since it is rather expensive to replace the belt and I will probably only keep the car for another year-about 15,000 miles- I am leaning toward not replacing it. I was also told that if the belt breaks, the car will stop and no internal engine damage will be done. Any comments would be very appreciated.
  • junkherjunkher Member Posts: 27
    NOT replacing the belt is obviously a problem waiting to happen. The AGE of the belt - Ten Years - alone is as much or more of a factor as the mileage on it. By now after repeated heating cycles of the engine - (you cant get much hotter where they are located)- the belt is getting fracture lines along the ridges. It is simply a betting game as to when it will give out.
    When it does go, some vehicles will do nothing but perhaps break the heck out of the timing belt cover as the broken belt slaps off. Others will simply smash the valves that are open into the tops of the pistons. OUCH! For a couple hundred bucks, you can avoid either possibility and have peace of mind. If you are reselling the car, any smart buyer will ask if it has been replaced along with other maintenance questions.
  • rshollandrsholland Member Posts: 19,788
    New Subarus can go to 105,000 before the belt needs replacing. Not so with older Subarus. If the belt snaps, and if the engine is an "interference-type" engine (not sure if Subies are), you're risking serious engine damage.

    Bob
  • lucien2lucien2 Member Posts: 2,984
    sheared bolts are hard.....

    Well another typical day when Lucien touches a wrench

    Bought some ramps, got em home, put 'em together.....car is too low with the v5/H&Rs. Back to get the extensions......still too low. Ok, so then we got some wood for the front tires to "step" up on, and that solved it. Ok great, 90 minutes in and we finally can start working on the actual thermostat!

    Dropped the thermostat housing, no prob. Got a little messy, but no biggie.
    pulled the old thermostat, no prob.
    put the new one in with the new gasket...easy.
    Put the housing on, tightened, the 1st bolt. threaded the second bolt. Tightened it as well. Aw heck, one more turn for good mea....SNAP!! Ugh. sheared off right at the block. Tried to drill it out, no luck, other than probably wrecking the threads in there. Put the old thermostat back in, dumped in as much water as I could and made a run for my mechanic shop a mile away, where she now sits awaiting the dawn of Monday morning. I just hope the original threading can be salvaged trying to get that bloody bolt out. Nice, simple shade-tree kinda job
  • francophilefrancophile Member Posts: 667
    Ouch, sorry to hear about your problems! Loosh, if you tightened a thermostat housing bolt enough to break it off, you had it W-A-Y T-O-O tight. That's a common problem, believe me, and you are far from the first person to suffer from it, if that makes you feel any better.

    Next time think of it this way; what is that bolt actually doing? It's just holding a little cover in place, and squishing that gasket a little bit so the coolant won't leak out. Really, that's all it's doing. It doesn't have to be very tight to do that. Also, you should start them all, then make them all snug, then put the final pinch on them, in that order, just like you would lug nuts.

    Sorry,
    -wdb
  • lucien2lucien2 Member Posts: 2,984
    It leaked a little when I had it on the first time, so actually I took it off and re-seated the gasket and was jus tightening it the second time, but clearly it was on way too tight already and I broke it. Now, I suspect, it is going to be a big hassle. Live and learn. Funny though, to my family (where wifey and I were working) learn=just go to the dealer, see, told ya so! To me and Kirst learn= ok, so, not so tight next time, yeah? :-)
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Even if it is non-interference, you'll be stranded wherever you are at the time. What if your cell phone is out of range, or no AWD-friendly flat-bed tow trucks are nearby?

    It'd be more risk than I'm willing to take, but it's your call.

    -juice
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Actually, the lesson to learn is you need a torque wrench! :-)

    Some bolts require inch-pounds of force. Others require 100+ lb-ft.

    -juice
  • rshollandrsholland Member Posts: 19,788
    Well at least the weather was nice. :)

    Bob
  • lucien2lucien2 Member Posts: 2,984
    I told Kirsten 2 nights ago I thought it was time to buy a torque wrench. duh. not soon enough. KONKILR says I am going to need to replace the water pump if they can't salvage the threads, since that is what the thing is mounted to. I guess a new pump at 63k isn't too bad an idea, but then I mights as well go for a timing belt too at that point. All just in time for my head gaskets to go sometime this year!
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    Loosh,

    You been working out? ;-)

    Sorry to hear about the turn of events.

    Ken
  • lucien2lucien2 Member Posts: 2,984
    stuff happens. The car is 4 years old, and not terribly high tech, so it's time I learn how to do this stuff. Beginner's luck ran the other way is all.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    It's good because it's all very minor and now you'll be equipped and prepared to the next job. It could have been a lot worse.

    Also, perhaps the bolt itself was brittle, and it's better to find out now, in a controlled environment.

    -juice
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    engine, but anyone interested in buying the car when it comes time to sell will automatically deduct the price of the timing belt swap from their offering price if you have not done it. So many good reasons to do it, and such (relatively) cheap peace of mind...

    ...in the way of these things, you know the time it chooses to break will be on a cold dark night, in the middle of nowhere, when you are in a huge hurry to get twenty eight things done.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • nygregnygreg Member Posts: 1,936
    Independents are cheaper than dealers. Get a good independent mechanic and save your money there.
  • nygregnygreg Member Posts: 1,936
    As Sheryl Crow would say - I recommend you walk around naked in your living room - you laugh, you learn, you love, you learn, etc.

    Greg
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Wasn't that Alanis? :-)

    -juice
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    ...FEEL FREE!

    yes, it's Alanis. :)

    -Colin
  • nygregnygreg Member Posts: 1,936
    your right - Alanis. I think the song is great. Hey, you don't learn unless you try.

    Thanks for setting me straight,
    Greg
  • lucien2lucien2 Member Posts: 2,984
    songwriting exceeded only by harmonica skills. But I digress.... :p

    The patient has survived surgery without requiring a water pump transplant. She's under observation until tomorrow. rest of 60k was uneventful. I've been driving the Outback today. Still a very nice car, but.......

    I MISS MY BABY!!!!!! I don't care if she's gonna blow her gaskets, I don't care about the bone jarring v5 setup, the droning Brullen 2.25" pipe, the mystery thunk in the left rear, the place where a case of wine shredded the interior skin on the back door, the exposed seat bolts because the Legacy trim covers don't fit the RS mounts. She goes when spanked and outhandles anything I've driven since I test drove a built e30 325is 2 years ago. I'm just used to all the sharp edges, it's what I like.
  • tucstantucstan Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for all the advice on replacing the timing belt. It seemed unanaimous. I just made an appointment with an independent repair shop that specializes in Japanese cars and does a lot of Subaru work. They also suggested, because of the mileage,replacing the water pump and the front oil seal. Since the engine is already open in that area, it is basically just paying for the parts and not labor.Their estimate was also about $140 less than the lowest dealership estimate.
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    to do the water pump and oil seal as well...

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    While the T-belt is off, have them change the accessory belts too.

    Ken
  • ostroskyostrosky Member Posts: 6
    When I make a sharp turn at low speed, I hear tires slipping .. sort of a chattering slipping noise. If I watch the rear tires while my wife is driving the car in tight turns, the wheel slips, making the noise. My friend who is an excellent mechanic, says that the rear differential is bad. I have an appointment with a new, local dealer but I would like to be armed with as much info as possible. Is the rear differential a problem. This is a 2000 Subaru Forester S with 18,000 miles and the 16 inch wheels and original Yokohama Geolander tires.
  • subearusubearu Member Posts: 3,613
    Have you been rotating the tires normally? Are the tires set to the proper psi cold?

    Could it be the rear differential is just low on gear oil? It could also be that the 2 rear tires are significantly different in size from wear, which would cause the differential to work overtime.

    It is not a common problem though. If there is indeed a problem with it (not leaking, not caused by tire wear), it may be covered under warranty.

    -Brian
  • ostroskyostrosky Member Posts: 6
    Brian,

    We have been diligent in maintaining tire pressure and there isn't any sign of a leak. However, in the first year of operation, there was tire pull from the Geolander tires. This took a long time to diagnose as the alignment settings were correct. The upshot is that the Geolander tires did settle into different diameters. Moving tires around between wheels solved the problem. But, perhaps two dissimilar diameters wound up in the rear. Tread wear seems to be equal, however.
  • celica115celica115 Member Posts: 169
    Correct me if I am wrong.

    "When I make a sharp turn at low speed, I hear tires slipping .. sort of a chattering slipping noise"

    Every time it rains, I play with my WRX by sliding at 60 and 90 degree coner at low speed. I always hear a chattering slipping noise from the rear tires. I watch some Japanese drifting video, those cars are making same kind of noise. Isn't it normal?
  • awdnewbieawdnewbie Member Posts: 9
    I picked up an 04 WRX about a month ago and love it. The only issue is that CEL has come on twice. The dealer says the rear 02 sensor is bad and will be replaced. They also stated that they had this problem last year and it should have been fixed on the 04 model. Has anyone heard of this before. Thanks.

    Mario
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    You shoulda brought it to "casa de juice", all we needed were parts and torque specs. I'm tellin' ya, bring the better half to entertain the kids and I'm game.

    -juice
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Good call on the oil seal replacement, that's a problem spot on some of the 2.5l engines, mostly Phase I.

    ostrosky: have the mechanic (or you) drain the rear diffy first. That'll tell you a lot. If the oil is clowdy and dark, just change it. Check the drain plug, it's magnetic and any metal shavings would indicate wear to the limited-slip device. If it's gone, there will be a lot of shavings, maybe even chunks of metal.

    It's possible that the oil is low or just spent and that's what's making noise. Let us know?

    Mario: a CEL is not a big deal, let the dealer diagnose and see if it comes on again. If it were serious, the light would be blinking. In that case, park it and have it towed.

    -juice
  • n8wvin8wvi Member Posts: 43
    My dad's 02 VDC wagon (w/ 48K miles) needs front & rear pads. His front rotors are warped a tad (due mostly I suspect to his driving habits, we have the same car and my rotors are fine). The rotors I'm going to replace with plain Brembos, but I'm not sure what to replace the pads with. I've heard good things about EBC greenStuff, but is that a good pad for the track and not a good pad for 'dad on the street' or would whatever makes it good at the track make it good for dad too? Any other suggestions appreciated.

    Dave
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    C&D had good results with stock rotors and Hawk pads. Those pads were good even without a warm up. Some of the higher performance pads needed a warm up, and for that reason they're probably not good for the street.

    -juice
  • n8wvin8wvi Member Posts: 43
    Thanks Juice. I understand why some track pads may not be good for the street, but (according to TireRack) the GreenStuff pads have "Excellent initial bite resulting in instant response, no warm-up needed"

    Anyone have experience with GreenStuff pads, preferable on the street?

    Dave
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    I thought I heard they dust pretty bad. That's why I was going to go with Hawk HPS instead...

    -Colin
  • rob999rob999 Member Posts: 233
    I installed EBC Greens on my Saab 9-5 and they've been fine after 10k miles. The original Saab pads are soft, yet very abrasive, and they emitted clouds of brake dust. The EBC's all but eliminated the brake dust problem and I have no side issues with them. The Greens are for street use and the REDS are for the track.

    I've heard others like the Wagner pads, too.
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    Guess I heard wrong! Sorry about that.

    -Colin
  • n8wvin8wvi Member Posts: 43
    Thanks for the input. Regardless of what I decide on, I'll post an update on our braking situation. I think these cars (the VDCs that is) are among the heaviest Subaru has ever made, and when your trying to stop, THEY FEEL LIKE IT.

    Dave
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    I didn't think the Forester ('00) was available with a LSD... The WRX probably has one, so I would expect it to respond differently when pushed.

    Steve
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I think it the S model started getting the LSD in model year 2000. The 98-99 had an open diffy on all models.

    -juice
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    Yes, the Forester S from MY00 onwards got a rear LSD.

    O2 sensors are purchased from other manufacturers and sometimes come in "bad" batches.

    Ken
  • toboggantoboggan Member Posts: 283
    Ok, my OBW 5 spd is at 56,000 miles and plan on doing the 60K mile servicing myself (been doing my own for many, many years). Do you need to put the car up on jack stands to change the gearbox and differential? If so, is there a safe center point in the front and rear to jack it up?

    I'll be putting in Amsoil 75W-90 gear lube in the Diff. and gearbox. Any body have problems using it??

    Thanks.

    MNSteve (3.75" of rain Tues. nite)
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