Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • kevin111kevin111 Member Posts: 991
    a. your battery in your key fob is very weak (replace it) - I have seen and heard of this happening before, where a new battery fixed this problem.

    b. your transmitter is defective.
  • ballisticballistic Member Posts: 1,687
    kevin offers, "a. your battery in your key fob is very weak (replace it) - I have seen and heard of this happening before, where a new battery fixed this problem.
    b. your transmitter is defective. "

    I guess (a) is a possibility, but my XT is less than two weeks old. I'm leaning to (b).

    jb
  • ostroskyostrosky Member Posts: 6
    I posted earlier about problems with my 2000 Forester differential. The dealer first thought that slipping tires on tight slow turns was the rear differential. But, after running their own tests and consulting Subaru, they decided that the problem was in the center differential. The dealer claims that they have to take apart the center diff. and measure the plates (clutch?) with a micrometer because some cars have different thickness plates and they need to measure to get Subaru to provide the correct part under warranty. It's been almost two weeks since I first brought the car to them. Are they giving me a story on the different thicknesses of center differential parts or are they likely stalling me? The car has only 18,000 miles on it .. I'm really bummed out that this happened and mostly because it isn't being fixed promptly. Any suggestions?
  • cptpltcptplt Member Posts: 1,075
    I think I have a refrigerant leak in my 98 GT. They had replaced something like the condensor and evaporator a year ago due to leaks but I was checking my oil today and there is something cylindrical in the passenger side at the rear of the engine comaprtment and its covered with a fluorescent green stuff, which I assume must be dye they put in the refrigerant.
    There are tubes going to this thing and it has japanese writing and R134a on it (which is the only reason I have to think its part of the a/c!).
    a/c works great in terms of cooling but it does make a rather prominent knocking sound occassionally.
    anyone know what that cylinder is? will have them check it out when I go for my 82.5K service, thank goodness for my extended warranty!
  • kevin111kevin111 Member Posts: 991
    It was on an Acura a while ago that I heard this happening to.

    Sometimes the batteries are either defective, or the button on the key fob was pushed in for a while accidently.

    Either way, you should have gotten two key fobs. How did the other one respond?

    Also, for curiosity sakes, I know the XT really hauls (what is your take on it?). How does it handle? Did you get a chance to test it vs. the WRX wagon? Nice car.
  • gxb159gxb159 Member Posts: 46
    I have a 97 Outback Wagon and the cruise control died recently. I went to use it this past weekend and nothing worked. The light on the dash button lights up, but when I use the steering wheel mounted control to set the speed, nothing happens. I need to get this fixed and was wondering if anyone has had a similar problem? Thanks!
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Is ThaiChih still around? That guy could drive, I remember he always had the quickest times of the RSs.

    It still cools? How strange. I wonder if it's a slow leak in the lines. They'll have to pressure test it.

    -juice
  • stevekstevek Member Posts: 362
    I have Bosh platinum in my 99 Forester and in my 01 Legacy GT, they seem to work fine. As far as wires are concerned stay away from Magnacore. I put Magancores on my GT and they were big improvement so I ordered another set for the Forester. They were not working on the Forester and Magnacore would not return my money or send me a new set of wires. They said they see no manufacturing defects must be improper installation. I even had a mechanic put them on and still they slid off the plugs
  • crashton6crashton6 Member Posts: 245
    I live in Ohio & have a 95 Miata. Mazda says to change the T belt at 60K, but if I live in Ca. they say to change the T belt at 105K. The car is the same, the T belt is even the same part number. The only difference is the car is in Ca. It is under much more stringent emissions laws in Ca.. My guess is that if Mazda required replacement at 60K in Ca. they'd probably have to pay for it. I think that's why Subaru says 105K too. Anyone from California here that can clear this up for us?
  • lfdallfdal Member Posts: 679
    I left my Forester parked yesterday with the moonroof open and when I got back in a couple of hours later the mirror looked "filmy". I tried to wipe it with a towel and noticed there appeared to be a melting liquid between / behind the glass. Mirror is permanently filmy and reflections are distorted now.

    Anyone else ever see one of these die from too much sun exposure?

    Larry
  • ballisticballistic Member Posts: 1,687
    kevin111 wrote, "Either way, you should have gotten two key fobs. How did the other one respond?"

    My wife's been carrying it, so it hasn't been used since my XT was delivered two weeks ago today. I swapped mine for hers this morning, and it is even worse! Neither the lock nor unlock functions will work unless I'm practically touching the remote against the driver's side window. That's when my XT is parked in a huge open surface lot outside where I work. I'll try it today in a few other locations, but is it possible that the receiver might be defective? Is there a way to increase the receiver's sensitivity? Does it have an antenna that could be lengthened?

    More Kevin: "I know the XT really hauls (what is your take on it?). How does it handle? Did you get a chance to test it vs. the WRX wagon?"

    I've never driven a WRX. I seriously considered buying one (wagon) a number of times over the past couple years, but didn't for two reasons: (1) the WRX packs a lot of punch in the upper rev band, but not much from idle to 2,000-2,500 RPM. Once upon a time I'd have enjoyed a peaky, keep-it-revved car. Now I prefer cars that simply go when you ask, without necessarily having to always have the right revs dialed in or be in the "right" gear. For my driving style, the XT is vastly better. (2) While I liked the original (1st-get) Impreza body (both sedan and wagon) very much, I've never warmed up to the second generation. The current Forester won't win any beauty contests, but it looks more like a car for grown-ups than the current Impreza/WRX. (3) Despite that, if Subaru had made the STi version available in the wagon body (as the WRX is), I'd have bought one in a heartbeat. Because it can only be bought in the less-versatile sedan, with the huge wing and fairly garish interior, it never made my short list.

    Thus, the XT was the answer for me. I can't say much yet about how it performs, because I'm barely at 500 extremely gentle break-in miles, with at least 1,500 to go. Along about September I'll finally be able to let 'er rip. I consider the handling to be quite good - maybe a little more body roll than I'd like, but that's easily remedied with a stiffer rear sway bar that will also shift to neutral or slight oversteer at breakaway.

    I can say that the poor gas mileage (along with the very high cost per gallon of premium - $1.749) are main disappointments so far with my XT. These result in part from the ridiculously low 4.444 final drive ratio Subaru chose to install. The XT should have been fitted with 3.9.

    jb
  • ballisticballistic Member Posts: 1,687
    I don't have any of the problems others are describing with the cruise control, but I wonder: Why is it necessary for the cruise control circuit to turn itself off every time you shut the car off? The cruise pushbutton is low on the left side of the dash - not a convenient spot. If I turn it on, I can't see any reason for it to not stay on. It won't actually engage unless I manipulate the wheel-mounted stalk, so what's the deal with the on-off switch and always going to 'off' when the car is shut down?

    Is there a way to modify something so that the cruise circuit always goes 'on' when the car is started?

    jb
  • ballisticballistic Member Posts: 1,687
    Larry asks "Anyone else ever see one of these die from too much sun exposure?"

    Is this the standard day-night mirror that you manually flip back and forth, or is it the automatic-dimming unit?

    jb
  • lfdallfdal Member Posts: 679
    Its the auto-dimming unit. Or should I say was?

    Larry
  • ballisticballistic Member Posts: 1,687
    "Its the auto-dimming unit. Or should I say was?"

    Sorry, can't help on that. I've always preferred the instant-acting manual-flip mirrors.

    I didn't catch what year your Forester is. If you're still in bumper-to-bumper warranty, I'd think this would be a covered item.

    My wife's '97 Concorde has an auto-dimming mirror, and she frequently parks with the sunroof open; no adverse effects seen yet.

    jb
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    Ding ding ding!

    Thank you, Crashton. So it's a CARB thing and not necessarily EPA-- my bad. I knew the 100k maintenance was coming from some standards body. Not necessarily a rational one. :)

    -Colin
  • lfdallfdal Member Posts: 679
    It's an 03 - the dealer will be replacing it under warranty. I've got an appointment for Friday, they have a new mirror in stock that they're reserving for me.

    My wife's 03 Outback took a lot of cabin heat yesterday , over 110 degrees, but no direct sun exposure. Her mirror is still fine.

    Larry
  • taomantaoman Member Posts: 14
    jlawton2 - I am experiencing a similar problem with my month old 2003 Outback wagon. I posted the problem on the Legacy/Outback problems board. A few times over the past month, I've heard a noise coming from the left front end of the car. I can not easily reproduce the noise. The noise occurs sometimes when I am parking and I am backing up in reverse and turning my steering wheel slightly to the right. When I put the car in drive, move forward, and start turning the steering wheel to the left, I hear a loud high pitched whining sound for a couple of seconds when I have straightened the wheel out about 3/4 of the way. It sounds like something is rubbing. I don't know if this makes a difference or not, but the noise has occurred when I am parking on an incline. Has anyone heard of a problem like this? I plan to spend more time try to reproduce the problem. Other than this infrequent noise, I love my new Outback.

    Neil
  • bat1161bat1161 Member Posts: 1,784
    Larry,

    The same thing happened to me last October. The mirror started to "leak" a black fluid, and the glass looked like it was loosing part of it's coating. My dealer replaced it under warranty, no questions asked. Since then (knock on wood), it's been fine, even with the hot days we have had.

    Mark
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I've seen one or two other cases of that mirror failure you're having. Aren't those made by Donnelly? Most are fine, it should be OK once replaced.

    -juice
  • kevin111kevin111 Member Posts: 991
    "Why is it necessary for the cruise control circuit to turn itself off every time you shut the car off? "

    - Every car I have ever driven in with Cruise control - Nissan, Toyota, Honda, Ford, etc. does this. It is annoying to have to keep turning it on when you first start-up the car, but it might be a safety feature in case a different person drives the car, does not know the cruise control is active, and accidently engages it. Reliabity and lawyers probably have something to do with it.

    BTW, is your car a manual or an auto? If it is an auto, then I understand your concern and purchase.
  • rshollandrsholland Member Posts: 19,788
    I'm hoping that future Subarus get the cruise control stalk now found on the STi, and the all-new '04 (for Japan) Legacy.

    On these models the on/off master switch is now incorporated on the end of the cruise control stalk, and is no longer tucked away on the lower left of the dashboard. This a much better solution, in that all the cruise control functions are now grouped together in one unit. I've found with my '01 Forester, that the dash-mounted master switch to be hard to find, and I often have to take my eyes off the road just to locate it. It's really a lousy solution, IMO.

    My only other complaint about the new-generation Forester's cruise control, is that the green cruise control instrument light should only go on when the cruise is actually engaged, and not when the master switch is activated, which is the way it is now.

    BTW, I find it ironic that the STi—the ultimate "driver's Subie" and "max-speed-infested" Subie, has the best cruise control switch of any current North American-spec Subie... It's almost oxymoronic, if you know what I mean. ;)

    Bob
  • ballisticballistic Member Posts: 1,687
    Kevin says, "- Every car I have ever driven in with Cruise control - Nissan, Toyota, Honda, Ford, etc. does this. It is annoying to have to keep turning it on when you first start-up the car,"

    As Bob points out in the message following yours, it isn't so much having to always turn it on every time you start the car (or else every time you first use the cruise), it's the lousy location of the pushbutton, way down low on the dash. For something that gets used so frequently, it needs to be in a more accessible place. Our Concorde puts the on-off button on the steering wheel hub along with the other cruise controls; that's far more convenient.

    "BTW, is your car a manual or an auto? If it is an auto, then I understand your concern and purchase."

    I'm not sure I follow your direction, but mine's a 5-speed. My wife was not thrilled with my adamant insistence on the M/T (but it's mainly my car, and hers already has an automatic). Thinking back now to how fabulous the automatic XT I test-drove was - truly lovely, I didn't have a single negative thing to say about it - maybe she was right. Because of the 4.444 axle, the rather low 1st gear, and the very large jump to 2nd, I don't find the 5-speed box to be quite as much fun as I anticipated. I pretty much avoid 1st gear unless it's required to get the car rolling.

    jb
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    My wife's OB has just over 70k miles on it. Before the 60k service, the belts squealed excessively and the dealer replaced them. A few thousand miles they were squealing again and the dealer adjusted them.

    Now they're squealing again. Would it be a wasted trip to mention this to the dealer again? I've thought about belt dressing, but don't want to put a "band-aid" on if it's a bigger problem.

    Thanks,
    Dennis
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    Try a new brand of belt, they're cheap.

    Make sure they're snug but not overly tight. Be especially careful not to bottom out the adjusters, you'll snap the tension bolts.

    -Colin
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    I noticed one was an FHI and another was Gates. Wonder if I could pinpoint which belt(s) is squealing?

    -Dennis
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Belts are cheap, but isn't the labor costly? Or the amount of time to swap them?

    I'm curious because I'll do mine at 60k. The dealer wanted $140 and that didn't include the timing belt.

    -juice
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    There are only two accessory belts, replace them both. Gates belts are OK. I'm trying to remember the ones I had on my Impreza (with an unorthodox underdrive pulley) that I really liked; very robust belt. ...Can't remember! Got them at Autozone, though. Almost 2x what a Gates belt cost but you could see a massive difference in the belt construction.

    Labor on the accessory belts for the EJ series engine is absurdly low. I can change both belts in 10 minutes without power tools.

    -Colin
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Good to know, I'll do it myself then. They're up front, right? Do I need a tensioning tool, or just eye ball it?

    -juice
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    Eyeball. You should be able to push firmly on the slack in the belt and have it move a bit.

    Anyone thinking of adjusting their belts please go read my first post above about not bottoming the tensioner bolts! Seen so many people snap them.

    -Colin
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    Dennis -- the squealing can be caused by a loose belt. Try increasing the tension on the accessory belts a bit.

    I think one of the Impreza modification sites (Ravensblade, perhaps?) had a copy from the service manual on setting the proper tension. In order to do it, you need a special gauge and measure the deflection of the belt when you push on it with a given force.

    When I adjusted my accessory belt, I just used Colin's eyeball method.

    In my case, the tensioner bolt snapped on it's own, not when I was tightening it. Good thing it happened when I was pulling out of my driveway. Losing the bolt allowed the belt to slip off the alternator and stopped my engine dead in it's tracks. A quick trip to the local hardware store and I was good again.

    Checking the bolt integrity is probably a good regular maintenance item. It takes 2 seconds -- it's located right there by the alternator housing.

    Ken
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    The head of the bolt snapped off? How did you get the rest of the bolt threads out?

    -juice
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    That cylindrical unit back by the passengers firewall is called a 'receiver/dryer'. It is there to remove contamination (water vapor, acid buildup, etc.) from the refrigerant. It is often changed out when major components are changed (general precaution).

    Steve
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    I believe that these mirrors use a liquid crystal film sandwiched between thin glass plates in conjunction with a polarizer sheet. When headlights are sensed, an electrical bias rotates the LC material with respect to the polarizer sheet, blocking light and making the image appear 'dark'. (think calculator/watch display...)Probably when exposed to direct sun light the mirror overheated/warped, fracturing the glass plates which allowed the LC to leak out.

    Warning - some LC that we use in the labs are considered low level carcinogens, so clean up with care!

    Steve
  • lark6lark6 Member Posts: 2,565
    Refresh my memory about O-ring seals, please? I'm a bit lazy and busy at the moment to search.

    Thanks,
    Ed
  • duff8duff8 Member Posts: 17
    I just bought an 04 WRX auto. Do you think I should change the oil every l000 miles until I get to 3000? Also, I live 200 miles round trip from the dealer. They said something about the warranty not being good if I don't use Subaru oil filters? Does anyone know anything about these filters and why I can't use just any filter?
  • lfdallfdal Member Posts: 679
    Steve - Thanks for the info, I was wondering how that worked.

    Larry
  • lfdallfdal Member Posts: 679
    Don't let them fool you. As long as you keep your sales slips you can do your own oil changes and the warranty stays in force. I think the law that protects you regarding the use of aftermarket filters is Magnussen-Moss.

    The Subaru filter, at least on the Foresters, is made by Purolator. Purolator's web site lists the same filter cross references for the 04 WRX's and 03 Forester's.

    Of course you can just buy a case of Subaru oil filters off the dealer or the web then they can't squawk at all. But be sure to keep good records or its a safe bet they might try to wiggle out of doing warranty repairs.

    HTH
    Larry
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    It's the main seal at the front of the block. If you get an oil leak at the front of the engine, that's probably it. I believe it's the seal that connects the oil pump (please correct me if I'm wrong folks).

    If you do the belts anyway, the labor is covered, so why not change the O-ring as well.

    -juice
  • lark6lark6 Member Posts: 2,565
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Now I have a question: what's that auto parts store that scans OBD2 codes for free? Advance? NAPA? I forget...

    -juice
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    juice,

    The bolt extends beyond the alternator so even after the head snapped off, I was able to twist it out by hand.

    Ken
  • subearusubearu Member Posts: 3,613
    is that chain that will scan codes for you.

    Or someone who has a OBDII scanner (like me!) Of course, my nominal charge would be waived to any Subaru Crew members ;-)

    -Brian
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Thanks.

    You're too far, but how much do those cost? I might buy one.

    -juice
  • subearusubearu Member Posts: 3,613
    I bought mine on a group buy over at MPVClub. I have this one http://www.obd-2.com, which hooks up to a laptop and can get realtime data from both our MPV and Subie. Pretty neat!

    Let you trigger or clear codes as well. Amazing all the things that the ECU keeps track of (MAF, IAT, spark advance, etc.)

    -Brian
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    Pretty cool. Is it $122 if I read it right?

    Ken
  • subearusubearu Member Posts: 3,613
    Yep, that's the one. Through the group buy, I was able to get it for just under $100.

    I have the ISO version which fits both my MPV and Outback (as well as any future Subies I may have).

    -Brian
  • nygregnygreg Member Posts: 1,936
    Wish I had the scanner. My CEL went on again yesterday (second time). I unscrewed the gas cap and screwed it back on. CEL is now off. Drove through heavy rains 2 nights ago (was having fun). First time it went on was afer I washed the car and gas cap area. Strange.

    Greg
  • nygregnygreg Member Posts: 1,936
    I purchased a case of Subaru oil filters from libertysubaru.com. $4 each. Purchased the metal gaskets too. I'm good now for about 50K miles. Many will recommend changing your oil after the first 1K miles and then every 3-5 afterwards. I switched to Mobil 1 at 10K and change every 5-6K miles. With the turbo, I would use synthetic and change maybe every 4K.
    BTW - congratulations on your new car. Baby it for the first 1K miles.

    Greg
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