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Comments
thanks for the info, its going in next week to get fixed. Somehow with this continuing leakage I think they have been treating the symptom and not the cause of the problem with my a/c! at least I'm getting it "free"
"There are only two accessory belts, replace them both. Gates belts are OK. I'm trying to remember the ones I had on my Impreza (with an unorthodox underdrive pulley) that I really liked; very robust belt. ...Can't remember! Got them at Autozone, though. Almost 2x what a Gates belt cost but you could see a massive difference in the belt construction."
You might be referring to the Goodyear Gatorback belt that AutoZone sells. It is 2X the price of others but is built much better and has a different pattern on the back than the others.
The vehicle: '97 Legacy Wagon 2.2 automatic with 34k on the clock owned by older couple that maintained it anally until a year ago when I bought it and began an even more anal maintenance regimen.
The history: As is my custom, I personally drained every single fluid and replaced them when I bought the car 13 months ago. This included the transmission. I used normal fluid -nothing fancy. The departing oil looked fine, I am certain the fluid was the correct level after drain/refill. Nothing has changed since.
Of note is that the tranny has always done something notable since I bought it. If I have the transmission selector in "3" instead of "D" and accelerate fast onto the highway, then let off the gas when third gear is engaged, the tranny will often (not always) shift above third gear. In a second or two, it "realizes" it was supposed to stay in third and downshifts. This has always bothered me.
Now that this second symptom has appeared, I have a theory I need some input on. Looking down at the shift pattern on the gear selector, IF there is a shifter position indicator the transmission is using to know what gear I've selected that is misadjusted, it would explain both symptoms. In other words, if I shift to an indicated "R", but the tranny thinks the shifter is actually closer to "P" it might be reluctant to come out of Park into reverse. Similarly, if I shift to "3" and this shifter position indicator thinks the shifter is closer to "D" it might allow the upshift. Coincidentally, both mismatches are in the same direction - the tranny thinks the shift lever position is slightly forward of its actual position. Thus my theory.
So, my theory is that there is some position indicator that is out of adjustment just enough to create both symptoms. What say ye?
IdahoDoug
Hope it's just a matter of tweaking an adjustment screw in the shifter linkage somewhere!
My tranny does seem to "hunt" some when starting out the first couple of miles, but I've been ignoring it. hmmmm.
Steve, Host
Slow, oozy shifts are usually indicative of transmission bands in need of adjustment or replacement. If it's adjustment it is really no big deal. If it's replacement it is a big deal.
rgds,
-wdb
Greg: when I get it you can come by if you ever drive south.
-juice
-Brian
I would make certain you do not have a pin hole leak in a coolant line spraying gently on the belt as coolant will really make 'er squeal. Also you may try rubbing the belt underneath with your finger and check for anything that comes off -oil, etc.
To quiet it, you should clean it thoroughly then place a dab of pure silicone sealant ( clear) on the inside pulley edge and start the engine. shut off the car and let the silicone dry. After it is dry the noise should be gone.
( A little trick I was shown by a mechanic many years ago. It has worked for me ).
I'm not sure of the timing of the belt changes/adjustments vs. the service, but I'll check on that.
Would silicone spray do the job, or is aerosol bad?
-Dennis
What I was suggesting with the Auto vs. Manual was your comment about the weak take-off below 3000 RPM in the WRX. The XT resolves this with a bigger engine and a turbo that kicks in earlier. With a Manual, the weak take-off issue is easily resolved in the WRX.
I would not personally use silicone spray as it is a lubricant and could tend to allow slippage especially at start up. (The spray type silicone is wonderful for door seals). The silicone I am speaking of is actually a sealant and will dry and act as a ( glue of sorts). Basically, it reduces the friction noise on the pulley assm.
You can bet that if it WAS in the shop just shortly before the noise appeared and they removed it to get to other work performed, the mechanic touched it with oil on his hands. From past experiences, coolant from the radiator will make it squeal worse than oil although either will make problems in this realm. I dont think either actually causes problems per say although the added irritation of more noises under the hood is frustrating.
-Brian
DaveM
Next change you could cut that suspicious new filter in half and see whats up. Pics of the old style one are around on various enthusiast forums... the purolator one is a very good filter design.
-Colin
Another note, have you looked into windshield repair? If it is a very small crack or fracture, a technician will be able to fix it for much less.
Finally, many insurance companies cover windshield repair, or at the very least, can refer you to one.
The breakin is an extremely important part of a vehicle's life, and I'd stick with the mfr's interval only this once. Then, change it based on your driving habits - leaning toward early changes. Congrats on a nice car, BTW!
IdahoDoug
Good advice in some cases, but Subaru does not use break-in oil. To the original poster: there's no reason not to change the initial oil at 1000 miles or anytime soon after break-in if you want to, to get all the initial particles out and put a fresh filter on. I recommend the Subaru OEM filters, they're Purolator rebranded and the highest quality I've used on Subarus thus far.
Just got a new XT, wondering if mid-grade 89 octane fuel is acceptable or if I'll have to use the more expensive 93-octane premium.
Thank you,
Dave
And do I need to trot out my "premium for premium" diatribe yet again?
-Colin
I test drove a Honda Element right after stumbling out of the glass place in shock. Kinda cool - in an ugly kind of way. Much slower than the Forester XS, but that interior is about as multifunctioned as you could get. Stereo is unreal.
The finest sound system on the planet, coupled with a $10,000 rebate, would not induce me to drive an Element.
Second Canadian quote for Forester windshield: $599 for the heated, $399 for the non. Glass coverage up here (at least with my current insurer) is so high that I dropped coverage years ago. In the Sentra, I would have had to replace every 12 months to justify the cost!
Re: the Element. Take a few minutes and go test drive one. I laughed out loud when I first saw them last year. They are now in my top 5 list for next year's purchase! Their biggest problem is that they don't really have an audience - those it was designed for can't afford a new vehicle, those who might buy it want more creature comforts or more power - or a less bizarre exterior.
-Colin
(computer guy at an energy company)
My reaction was more akin to suppressing the gag reflex - and only barely succeeding. As for taking a few minutes to test drive one, I wouldn't waste my time. The Element's designers (the term 'stylist' is utterly inapplicable) don't deserve being rewarded for such a hideous product. I bought a turbocharged Forester XT two weeks ago. It won't win any beauty contests, but the Element does not have even one single attribute that would cause me to think I bought the wrong vehicle.
jb
Ballistic, unless a person needed the serious cargo volume the Element has, or was short $10,000 Canadian, I would agree that the Forester XT is a no-brainer to buy. My rule of thumb, however, is not to discount anybody or anything too quickly. Honda has a rep for a reason, and for them to try something like this seems like an extra-big gamble from a very conservative company. That vehicle offers some things no other North American model does, and has the Honda badge to back it up in the long run.
What good is 'serious cargo volume' when there's practically no payload weight capacity? Look up the Element's maximum payload. Deduct for driver, one or more passengers, a tankful of fuel, and so forth. You're left with a preposterous couple hundred pounds! Unless you spend your days transporting very large rolls of featherweight bubblewrap, or big poly bags of bed pillows, what good is a cavernous cargo space when the vehicle can't carry any weight?
Sorry. I would agree that Honda is one of the world's premier automakers, but with the Element they blew it bigtime. They'll sell maybe a hundred thousand to fringe buyers who want to be different solely for the sake of being different. After that tapers off, it will be a dismal failure.
jb
http://www.endwrench.com/archive/sysdrive.html
Maybe there's something in there to help you out.
utahsteve
I was on vacation this week, so the OBW ('02 w/ 15.5k miles) saw almost zero use for 6 days. On Friday, I drove her about a half mile with no incident. Heard some brake surface sound typical of slight surface oxidation, but no real problems. Proceeded to do a wash and wax, then prepared to move the car into the garage. The first application of brakes was accompanied by a horrendous groan and the whole body shook. I ran the car up and down the driveway several times until the shake/grind (with brake application) subsided, then put her in the garage. There she sat until this morning. Started her up, and put into reverse. Nothing! Brakes locked up tight. Rev'ed to 2500 or so, when they suddenly released with a snap and the car shot backwards. I got out and examined all 4 rotors. Each had a serious raised patch (brown rust) replicating the brake pads. The drive to work smoothed them a little, but I can hear each rotation, and they thump with each brake application.
I am seriously thinking of pulling the rotors tonight and block sanding each if they do not return to normal on the drive home. What gives???
Steve
I'd clean it with brake cleaner spray before driving off. If it doesn't happen any where else, I'd be glad!
-juice
Go to the dealer that says both axles have 50% left. :-)
Ask if they can adjust the pedal travel. Aftermarket braces help abate the spongy feel, FWIW.
-juice
pistons locking is something very serious though. have your dealer inspect, since you're well under warranty.
I think I posted some good info here for in Modification a while back about brake caliper servicing, if you're interested in DIY for some reason.
-Colin
-juice
DaveM
It's in my previous post, wherever that is.
-Colin
Craig
-Colin
After about 40 miles of driving, 90% of the swept area of the rotor is polished clean, but the pad rust spot is still very visible (and feels raised to my finger). And so is the pulsation.
Maybe tonight I will get to pull them and block sand. And I am about 100 miles inland....
Steve
Steve
Overall range on the Subaru is comparable to my Toyota Sienna and Lincoln Mark VIII. New batteries always help. And then there's this:
Use your head as an antenna! Yes, it sounds silly, but placing the remote just under your chin extends the range noticeably. I have tested it with all three of my cars and can get up to about 50% greater distance. Not only does it improve the range of your remote fob, but it does a better job of blocking the alien signals than those aluminum foil helmets! Seriously, it does work.
--K9Leader
Wait a sec, I do! ;-)
-juice
Don't do that. It causes brain tumors.
Steve