Are you (or someone in your family) a first-time car buyer who is struggling to find an affordable used vehicle? A reporter would like to speak with you; please reach out to [email protected] by 1/21 for more details.

Dodge Ram - II

145679

Comments

  • y2kramy2kram Member Posts: 5
    I ordered all of the SLT+ features except the heated seat.
  • dodgeramdodgeram Member Posts: 202
    This may be a dumb question, but it's the only quirk I have about my 2000 ram 4x4 qc diesel (automatic). When the engine is farily cold like after warm up, the shift from park to rev, or fwd, is almost seemless, but once I drive it around the shift from park to rev, is awfuly harsh, almost like a thud, foward is better, but still a little harsh, is this normal for the auto with the cummins, or should I get it looked at. Besides this, the truck is amazing to drive and I think it 's the tallest production truck offered between the big three, even over the superduty's, because I parked up beside a diesel 4x4 ford, and I was a inch taller at the back!
  • tmigueltmiguel Member Posts: 33
    I just found out that the 2001 Ram 2500 4x4 Reg 5 spd V-10 etc. ordered Dec. 17, 1999. Reached D1 and is schedueled to be built by the March 10 in Mexico. Any info as to how to track Mexican railroads?
  • marsh2marsh2 Member Posts: 4
    I've got a 2500 qc 4x4 diesel w/34,000 mi. The brakes have had to be replaced. The tranny has been rebuilt. It is back in the shop with brake and tranny probs. On the +, I get 20mpg and a great ride when the truck is working properly. Because of all I have read on the posts and my own probs, I am going to get an extended warranty. Anyone used warranty direct? They seem to have good prices.
  • nascar6nascar6 Member Posts: 113
    According to the info on http://www.ecpe.vt.edu/~dfritz/ram_frame.html, new RAMs are trucked to New Orleans, then shipped by rail to distribution hubs.
  • woodbutcherwoodbutcher Member Posts: 3
    I'm looking for somebody with the new ETH (HO)diesel with the 6 speed manual in a 3/4 ton.
    What do you get for MPG? What rear axle do you have, 3.54 or 4.10? 2WD or 4WD?

    Same info requested for the ETC diesel with the 5 speed manual.

    Thanks
  • markcordmarkcord Member Posts: 113
    Not all Rams though. I don't know about Mexico but I traced mine on its rail car all the way from Fenton to Westboro, MA and it never got anywhere near Louisiana.
  • pechorinpechorin Member Posts: 4
    I'm sorry if this question has been addressed previously, but I'm wondering: has anyone else noticed a relatively loud hum or "wah-wah-wah" noise upon deceleration w/ the 4-speed automatic?

    My truck is a brand-new 2000 QC 1500 w/ the 5.9 V8. 275 total miles. Any time I lift off the gas at speeds below roughly 50 mph, I get the noise--which, at first, I thought was just tire hum that I was hearing only in the absence of engine noise.

    It's clear to me now, though, that this isn't the case. My (uneducated) guess would be that something in either the transmission or the differential is out of synch. If I so much as touch the accelerator, the noise stops immediately.

    Has anyone else experienced this? Is it a "problem," or is it just a characteristic of a new truck/transmission (i.e., is it something that will go away after 1000 miles)? I've heard of folks having transmission problems with these trucks, and this certainly isn't something I would consider "normal" in a brand-new vehicle...so I'm a bit concerned.

    Any thoughts/advice would be much appreciated...
  • buntain1buntain1 Member Posts: 2
    My truck is a 2000 reg. cab 1500, also with the 5.9 and 4-speed automatic and I have experienced no unusual noises from the transmission or anything else and I have almost 4000 miles on mine. Your noise is not characteristic for your Ram, get it checked out and good luck.
  • y2kramy2kram Member Posts: 5
    Responding to Woodbutcher's question.

    I have a 2001 Ram 2500 with the six speed manual tranny and the HO (ETH) engine, 4WD, 4.10 axles and 265x16 tires.

    I haven't yet had a good long run on the highway yet, so can't give you a good figure for highway mileage. However, the trip computer seems to average about 20 mpg on straight and level cruise.

    Driving around town with frequent traffic light stops, etc., I am averaging 14.7 over the last 120 miles of town driving. You can reduce that a lot by experiencing the fantastic acceleration that this truck has to offer.

    I think that the 4.10 axle with this tire size is about optimum. You can cruise at up to 80 without winding the engine up and yet there is a lot of power left for towing, which I haven't done yet.

    I hope this answers your questions.
  • woodbutcherwoodbutcher Member Posts: 3
    Thanks y2kram for the info. It is hard getting MPG
    on the trucks. That 20 MPG looks good for a 3/4 ton truck.
    I did check with Cummins today, they said the
    ETH engine should give me better MPG than the
    ETC.
    Thanks again.
  • wiz1wiz1 Member Posts: 18
    Well I did my first fillup over the weekend. I averaged 17.23 MPG for both city/hiway driving.
    This is an 2001 ETH/DEE with 4:10 gears.
  • caljcalj Member Posts: 3
    Has anyone used a K&N air filter with the cummins? I used a K&N air filter with my V10 which increased mileage by 1 MPG. I bought a 99 2500 qc with the cummins and was wondering if there any benefit to using the K&N air filter?
  • gwmooregwmoore Member Posts: 230
    According to Automotive News the next generation Ram will discontinue the Cummins and utilize a Mercedez diesel. Here is an excerpt:

    "It is unclear which Mercedes engine will be used. Mueller said a common-rail diesel injection engine might be the choice. These engines are designed for passenger vehicles and range in size from 2.0 liters to 4.0 liters. But a manager with Dodge powertrain development in Auburn Hills, Mich., said his team has been working on packaging the Mercedes' MBE-906 diesel engine in the Ram. The MBE-906 is a six-cylinder, 6.4-liter, turbodiesel. It is a heavy-duty truck engine available in DaimlerChrysler's Freightliner and Sterling brands. The MBE-906 is larger than the Cummins engine and offers between 190 and 280 hp."

    I know nothing about Mercedez diesels other than they have been making them forever and everything they make is super heavy duty. But I wonder how technologically advanced a prospective engine for the Ram would be, i.e. will it match up against the Duramax and the next generation Powerstroke? The article also stated that the move to change from Cummins to Mercedez is at least partially based on cost savings. At any rate, this is a very interesting change of events, especially since the most commited Ram fans are the Cummins fanatics (myself included). Go see the article at www.autonews.com - "Mercedes diesels to power next Ram" (March 6, 2000).
  • gwmooregwmoore Member Posts: 230
    I better get used to spelling Mercedes correctly. Sorry about all the "Mercedez".
  • rocketdrrocketdr Member Posts: 4
    How is your off road 2000 doing? I ordered a 2001 off road I thought was hear last week .did you get bigger tires? Height does make stock tires look like pizza cutters. Ha! What else, tow anything yet ? Been in the mud ? I will be scared for a long time I think. But it sure looks like this truck will hunt!
  • rlkruegerrlkrueger Member Posts: 98
    Hi,
    ...and to my old aquaintance, kcram, hello!
    My 99 3500/Cummins/4x4/QC 24V is running like a dream.
    I would like to add the B&D Engine Brake First Level injectors to the engine for a reported 30hp/100 lbs ft increase in torque. I also hear that a 1-2 mpg fuel mileage increase is common among these customers. So I'm inquiring as to anyone's personal experience that has installed these injectors into their 24V Cummins.
    Any reports out there?

    Thanks,
    Robert
  • rlkruegerrlkrueger Member Posts: 98
    Well, I can't delete a bad post, so I have to add.
    The injectors are put out by Diesel Dynamics, not B&D Brake. (Although they also sell injectors)

    Sorry,
    Robert
  • blimpieblimpie Member Posts: 2
    If you don't pick up a new ordered truck for 2weeks to a month does it cost the dealer part of his holdback?

    Thanks
    Mike
  • RichinKsRichinKs Member Posts: 412
    The reverse side of my contract (Kansas) says I have 3 days to pick up the vehicle when it is ready or the contract is void.
  • blimpieblimpie Member Posts: 2
    If you don't pick up a new ordered truck for 2weeks to a month does it cost the dealer part of his holdback?

    Thanks
    Mike
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJMember Posts: 3,516
    Mike,

    Holdback is not part of a sale to a consumer. It is a credit value on the dealer's purchase account with the manufacturer - not unlike getting a gift certificate from a store credit card. This amount is credited no matter who the dealer sells the truck to. At the same time, dealers are extremely reluctant to touch it, because it helps them cover their overhead (you don't EVER want to know what a dealer pays in insurance for all the cars and trucks on the lot).

    kcram
    Co-Host - Smart Shopper & FWI Conferences
    edmunds.com Town Hall
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJMember Posts: 3,516
    Good to see you again, and glad the 3500 is running great for you. Mine will be 4 years old in May, and will probably turn 60,000 miles right at that point. Still nothing but maintenance required (unless I broke something myself - hehe), and the fuel economy is still up there - I've gotten as high as 24.5 on a dead highway run.

    I'm waiting patiently for the Ram redesign, and probably won't get a new one for at least 2-3 years - good thing I splurged for that 7y/100K extended warranty, becfause I will use up every ounce of it. And much to my (pleasant) surprise, it is currently worth twice what I owe on the loan. My payoff is $9400, but its trade-in value is currently $19,500! Looks like I made a good choice of truck this time.

    kcram
    Co-Host - Smart Shopper & FWI Conferences
    edmunds.com Town Hall
  • rlkruegerrlkrueger Member Posts: 98
    Yup, I have the same warranty.
    I have almost 15K miles on it now, so it should be pretty well broke in. I've used the Stanadyne additive since new, and it runs great. The wife and myself will take it out West this year, from Nevada up to and through Montana, so I'm going to install the Diesel Dynamics Stage 1 Injectors + the K&N Filter. I'm supposed to see 50+ hp and 100+ lbs. ft. of torque increase, and about 1 - 2 mpg increase as well. Checking with the TDR, they come highly recommended by folks who have installed them. With the 3:55 rear end, I have encountered some steep, long climbs that could use just a tad more torgue, so I'm going this route.
    I took a friend for a ride in mine last fall, and 2 weeks later he had his own 2500/QC/Cummins with a plow, and he has rewarded me by keeping my driveway clear all winter:-)
    A few weeks ago, a guy I was training at work wanted a ride in mine, and lo and behold, picked up his new 2500/QC/360 v8/4x4 last week. (Couldn't afford the diesel as he just got married 2 months before)
    I'm sorta feelin' like the Dodge emmisary lately. Probably just people that recognize a quality piece of iron when they see one...
    I will say that I'm glad I didn't hold out for the Allison auto, otherwise I'd -still- be waiting, maybe for another year if the rumbles are true.
    Anyhow, as they say in flight school, keep the shiny side up.

    See 'ya,
    Robert
  • 98quad98quad Member Posts: 2
    I have a 98 Quad cab, with 64700 miles and have now had 2 problems. 1st the antiskid sensor in the rearend failed due to metallic material demagnetizing it. Less than 20,000 miles later I have a horrible roar coming from the rear end and the dealer has diagnosed it as trashed rearend. Has any one else had this type of failure with so little miles? It is driven mostly highway by my wife, and has a 5.9 Liter (360). Also is anyone else having the problem with detonation running anything less than Medium grade Gas?
  • quadnutquadnut Member Posts: 5
    I have a 97 Extended Cab w/42,000 miles. I haven't had any problem with the rear end. I've recently began using medium grade gas since the prices have increased. I haven't noticed any difference. The manual recommends 87 octane.
  • dtlawledtlawle Member Posts: 9
    I have a new 2500 ST ram 4x4 with the cummins. Generally love the power, and am getting decent milage so far. A few things I've noticed is that the front end bottoms out over 25 mph speed bumps unless I crawl over them (10 mph or less) and the trannny seems to be unpredictable at times, it'll upshift when I'm on the throttle, and hang in the low gear when I lay off, but not all the time. Anyone else had this problem..??, any thoughts..??.

    By the way, I (having never owned a diesel) was getting tired of waiting for the truck to warm up, and then waiting for the turbo unit to cool down, which I know we have to do. I invested in the AVISTART remote system (I needed to get some power door locks anyway, since mine's only an ST). so now I can remote start and stop my diesel, along with the PDL, remote keyless and the alarm system. love it so far
  • dtlawledtlawle Member Posts: 9
    Where di you guys get your warrantees, I wanna get a 7yr/100k warrantee as well (concerned about the Tranny of course, and the brakes)
  • 98quad98quad Member Posts: 2
    I bought my 5yr./100000 mile ext. warranty from WarantyGold, it is linked here by Edmunds. I have now had to use it 3 times and it is absolutely wonderful. They are paying for the total repairs less the $50.00 deductible, I am also getting a rental while my truck is in the the shop. They pay $30.00 per day and direct bill to Enterprise. I can say that on any Future vehicle purchases, I will definitely put and extended from this company on it!
  • rlkruegerrlkrueger Member Posts: 98
    Warranty,
    It's Chrysler's Total Care Extended warranty.
    Generally purchased at the time of sale, but can be added later. There are several different levels of protection.

    dtlawle,
    Be careful on the warm-up routine. Diesels don't like to sit and idle for long periods.
    I would suggest an EGT gauge for the Turbo for shutdown, and when it reaches 300 deg, shut if off.

    rlk
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJMember Posts: 3,516
    hi there dt

    A couple of things to remember:

    1) The automatic trans is reacting to the engine and the throttle via electronic signals. If you don't have a steady foot, you will get much jerkier shifting. And remember to keep it serviced under the heavy duty maintenance schedule; you will have a much happier tranny that way. I have almost 58K on my Ram oil-burner with no transmission problems at all.

    2) As rlk mentioned, idling is a diesel's enemy in light truck applications. Unlike big rigs, both Dodge and Cummins expect you to start up and shut down as you would any other pickup engine, not idle all night at a truck stop. The Cummins will warm up MUCH faster if you actually drive it. If it's very cold, the engine block heater will take care of any starting issues. Don't spend more than 2 minutes idling upon starting it - put it in gear, use a light throttle, and go about your business - the temp gauge will come up much faster. As for shutting down, I stay out of the throttle for the last block or two before both my job and my home. This will help get the exhaust temp down so that you don't have to spend too much time idling parked before shutdown. Basic rule of thumb for shutdown times is:
    - very light driving: 30 secomds
    - heavy stop and go/light highway: 60 seconds
    - road trips/heavy loads: 2 minutes
    And as with any turbo, if you have that old habit of revving the engine as you turn the key to Off, break that habit NOW. All that does is reheat the exhaust you just sat there trying to cool off, and will lead to oil coking and turbocharger failure.

    Enjoy your new Ram!

    kcram
    Co-Host - Smart Shopper & FWI Conferences
    edmunds.com Town Hall
  • rjdodgerjdodge Member Posts: 2
    I've got a Ram quad cab w/ 1500 miles. Still new. It is a 2500 w/ 360, 4.10 axle. My milage has been around 13 or 14 per gal. Is this the norm? A friend tells me I should be doing better than that. Also, I read all the stories about tranny problems, and surge, but have not experienced anything like that yet. I do alot of snow plowing and tow a 6000lb trailor in the summer. Any advise besides what the owners manual says for these conditions?
  • dtlawledtlawle Member Posts: 9
    Appreciate it. I'll Check the HD sched for the tranny service. And check out the warranty's. Think I'll go with a 7/100 since I use my ol' toyota off and on, and will put a few miles on it as well (been hard though, it's an '89 and has 160k on it, and I really dig the Ram. Gotta say though, the Toy has been good, never been in the shop other than service and recall on the head gasket, and has yet to have a any replacement part including clutch or headlights).

    I usually don't Idle much more than 2 or 3 minutes before leaving for the most anyway, more out of impatience than anything else. good to know this is ok. I'll keep an eye on the shifting thing, maybe I'm just adjusting to it. I'm in Vancouver WA, so cold temps are very rare. Where are you guys at..??

    Any thoughts on the front springs bottoming out..??. I was wondering if the manufacturer puts heavier springs on the diesels since they out weight the Gas engines (near as I can figure from the specs) by around 800 lbs.

    Later daze
  • dtlawledtlawle Member Posts: 9
    I was talking to a friend of mine who has the 360 in a 2500, and he was running around 11-12 mpg (lots of city driving). The gal that works with him, and another guy I know get 15-17 in their 1500's. Do you do alot of rural/Hwy driving..?? (I was in the city almost constantly on my last tank of diesel and only got 14.7, causing me to sell off one of my children)
  • jcmdiejcmdie Member Posts: 594
    I have a 1500 quad cab 4X4 with the 5.9 auto and3.54 rear. I get 12 consistently as combined miles. About 40% of my miles are city and the majority of the rest is 2 and 4 lane highway. Rarely am I on the super slab. On the transmission, just make sure that you follow the heavy service maintainence schedule.
  • lariat1lariat1 Member Posts: 461
    I to have a diesel and have owned many before my current 98 2500 w/24v cummins and I have logged 51,000 miles so far without a lick of trouble. An easy way to keep your turbo running good for a long time is 1) never rev the engine and immediately shut it down as said before and 2) If you hear it running dont shut the engine down ( I am sure by now you know the faint whirring of the turbo). The transmission question you have is that all of those things are normal, an automatic is set up differently for a diesel than for a gas. Because a diesel has power at a low RPM the trans. will shift up to accelerate when the truck is unloaded which is opposite of a gas which shifts down to gain RPM where it makes HP. Another thing is that almost all new automatics are "torque lock" this simply means that instead of always slipping a little bit like old automatics there is no slip at all in the new ones you can feel this in your truck when it shifts into overdrive it feels like the truck lurches forward and the RPM will drop. As for the sticking in gear are you sure it is just not engine braking? Yor diesel has a compression ratio of about 16:1 where a gas is about 8:1 this means you have a lot of engine braking when you let off the accelerator and it feels like something is dragging. As for the bottoming out all I can say is I think it is a dodge thing mine does it and my dads 1500 w/360 did it the best solution is a good new set of shocks. When you start your truck an easy way to determine if your truck is ready to drive watch your volt meter if it is still cycling between 10 and 14 volts wait until it settles down this is normal and all the cycling is, is the pre heaters on your engine when they are done you are ready to go. By the way if it gets really cold where you are let me know and I can give tips on that to (I live in Fairbanks AK and it get damn cold here)
  • 4myjob4myjob Member Posts: 19
    I think we finally figured out the steering clunk problem. I was feeling it whenever turning the wheel (even sitting still) and through the brake. Turns out the hydraulic booster has both of these components in common. We think there was a bad valve in the booster and I was getting a "water hammer" like effect.
  • bucky44bucky44 Member Posts: 19
    Howdy to all, first time posting. Now that the Dakota crewcab has been born, does anyone know if Dodge is coming out with a Ram crewcab? (I really need the extra space!)

    PS. Thanks for all the great info!!!
  • rlkruegerrlkrueger Member Posts: 98
    If you're one of these folks (like me) who likes to be informed, meaning monitoring turbo performance (Boost pressure) and how hard it has to work to produce it ( EGT Temperature before the Turbo ), check out this site.

    http://www.dieselpage.com/index.shtml

    They have very nice Pillar Mounts for the (your choice) Banks guages or the ISPro gauges. Eliminates the time element in guestimating when to turn it off, confirms what kcram and others have said concerning warm-up time/temperature, and gives you measurable performance that allows you to detect any changes in Turbo output, if a failure should occur. ...and they look cool :-)

    rk
  • dtlawledtlawle Member Posts: 9
    Appreciate the tips. I'm gonna have the 5-star guys look at it on Monday anyway (waited 2000 miles for the first oil change, was gonna wait 3k, but after reading through here, decided I should get to it). As for the whirring of the turbo, I can't hear anything over the motor. I'll listen closer.

    Ran into a guy last night at the store with a beautiful black 2500 sport v10. We checked out the springs, and mine springs were alot more compressed than his were. Anyone know how much heavier the Diesel is than the v10..??.

    I'm in Vancouver WA (Portland OR metro area). The coldest temp on record here is +7 f. Guess I probably wont have to worry about the cold start stuff
  • dtlawledtlawle Member Posts: 9
    Where do the pillar mounts go..??. Don't know if i'd even know what I was lookin at on the guages actually, but guess I should become educated.

    Is yours a 3500..??. What kinda milage do you get..??, Kcram was saying he had seen as high as 24 MPG. I have'nt seen close to that yet. 17.6 hwy was my best, but I just passed 2000 miles. Guess there's a breakin period. Someone in one of these forums was recommending doing some hauling to break in the cummins. Is that necessary..??
  • shopkins1shopkins1 Member Posts: 2
    I'm looking to buy a Ram in the next couple of months. I have no idea what they are like or what is fair in terms of price. This will be the first time that I have ever bought a truck. A Ford dealer close to where I live is selling a 1998 Ram 1500 v-8, 4wd, with 25,000 miles on it for about $19,500. Any suggestions, or recommendations on a different model? Or, is there anyone out there who thinks that the Ram is not that great of a truck?
  • dtlawledtlawle Member Posts: 9
    I'd check the price, but sounds pretty good, 25k keeps it under factory warranty. Which v8..??. I've heard the 360 is great in the 1500's. I'd check the invoice on a new one just for kicks. probably not a whole bunch more, depending on the trim level.
  • rlkruegerrlkrueger Member Posts: 98
    The pillar mount gauges mount on the drivers side pillar post (left of your windshield) about halfway up. You can find pictures of these gauges mounted at this site for a better idea:

    http://www.dieselpage.com/index.shtml

    These are the folks that supplied mine. I opted for the ISPro set, due to the reputation and color-enhanced temperature ranges. Banks sells a similar set.
    I have a 99 3500/QC/4x4/3:54/Auto Trans.
    My mileage was about 18 - 20 on trips traveling about 65 - 75, 17 back and forth to work. Mileage questions are a subject all to their own. Some Cummins equipped vehicles came with a CAT, others, like mine, have no CAT, but a straight-through resonator, which helps the mileage a little.
    Some people say that when you reach 15K, the engine will be essentially broken in, and you will be at your optimum mileage. Cummins is saying that you will not reach this point until you reach almost 50K miles. The truth is probably a little of both. Mileage is not just an engine issue. At 15K, you have probably reached the point where the majority of your drivetrain mechanical components have worn to where they maintain a comfortable film of lubricant and do not impose any additional mechanical friction when heated to normal operating temperatures. This includes all bearings, sleeves and oil seals. This is normally considered drivetrain "breakin", and has a lot to do with your initial mileage figures when new.
    The Cummins engine must go through this same type of normal mechanical wear to reach the same point. Depending on the quality of construction, this can be a significant period to attain proper seating of rings, pistons, and valves, to name a few. If we are to believe Cummins, this point will come farther down the road, but I think that any difference you may see between 15K and 50K will be slight, IMO.
    There are many things you can do to improve mileage to your truck. I would suggest becoming a member of the Turbo Diesel Register (TDR),

    http://www.turbodieselregister.com/

    and you will find a great deal of help whether you seek mileage, power, or some combination of both.
    For now, until you decide on TDR, you can go to their website, go into the Discussion Forums, and do a search on whatever subject strikes your fancy, and you will have plenty of material to digest from other Cummins owners, trust me...
    I'd offer my suggestions, but this would probably be the best first step. Enjoy...

    rk
  • rlkruegerrlkrueger Member Posts: 98
    kcram and others who own the Cummins 12 valve will always have higher mileage figures that those of us that own the slightly newer 24 Valve. Comparing stock trucks, there is a substantial HP/Torque difference between the two, which comes at the cost of mileage. Also, in 99, Cummins reprogrammed the ECM Module due to complaints of low power with the new 24 Valve Turbo. This resulted in lower mileage figures, but was not, as some believe, at the behest of the EPA. In an effort to increase usable power without actually increasing the figures, they lowered the point at which you reach maximum torque, anotherwords, full torque is now reached at around 1400 RPM, instead of the original 1600 RPM. With full torque coming earlier, more fuel is injected at an earlier stage as well, thereby having the net effect of lowering your "combined" mileage figures. There are still some 99's that knowingly have not had this ECM upgrade applied, and they will report 1 - 2 mpg better than another similarly equipped vehicle.

    rk
  • rlkruegerrlkrueger Member Posts: 98
    Best bet is to continue with the Edmunds site, and locate the used truck section. There is a process whereby you can figure out what a fair price is if you know the mileage and options that are on the vehicle you're interested in. Try it, I've found it's accurate and reliable.

    rk
  • rmaxwelrmaxwel Member Posts: 2
    Finding this shared information useful and scary. Owning a diesel is quiet an investment! I love my new truck and would like to add the turbo temp. protection equipment that I'm reading about, but wouldn't that void my warrenty? I've only owned my truck for one week and on the first tank of fuel, I measured 17.1 MPG. I'm hoping my second tank will improve (found my tire pressure at 45 lbs. all the way around and pumped them up to the correct pressure). My outfit is a 2500 Quad Cab ST, 24 valve Cummins, 5 spd. man., 2wd, swb.

    rmaxwel
  • rlkruegerrlkrueger Member Posts: 98
    No, it will not void your warranty, assuming you install it correctly. By that, make sure that you collect -all- metal chips using a magnet, and you block the Turbo inlet completely with a rag. My friend installed his by taking the turbo off, and sticking a vacuum cleaner nozzle into the exhaust manifold to suck up the chips during the drilling and tapping operation. If you have mechanical aptitude, and can drill a hole, and tap this hole for 1/4" NPT, then you will have no problem. The Boost Pressure guage is a hookup-only installation, no machining.
    Your mileage is excellent, and will continue to improve. I would suggest Stanadyne Fuel additive on every fillup to add lubricity for the Bosch fuel pump, prevent rust and corrosion inside the tank, and it also raises the Cetane, and increases your mileage figure slightly. (I gained about 1 mpg) In the colder weather, it also prevents gelling of the fuel.
    Congratulations, you've made a wise investment.

    rk
  • rmaxwelrmaxwel Member Posts: 2
    I really appreciate the advise rk. I went ahead and subscribed to the TDR. Lot of good information plus a person can benefit from others experiences.

    rmaxwel
  • mrlevelmrlevel Member Posts: 7
    I plan on buying a 2000 dodge ram 2500 4WD auto
    slt with the plow package and HD service group. My question is do I need to get it the anti slip differental with it. I do plan on plowing with this truck need an answer soon.
This discussion has been closed.