2013 and earlier BMW 3-Series Prices Paid and Buying Experience

kyfdx

Your car may not have an audible alarm.. but, it does have an engine immobilizer.. You can't start it without a key.. The only way to steal it is to flatbed it..

So, unless you stay up late.. or expect your neighbors to respond to your car alarm, you have all you need..

regards,
kyfdx

maxcat2

I have also gotten several compliments on the Imola red but I'm not sure exactly how to pronounce it when asked. Is it pronounced more like "eye mola" or more like "imm mola"? As for the alarm I do have a red blinking light on the bottom of the rear view mirror.

cartalk

Imola is pronounced: [ē'mōlä]

Imola is city in north central Italy located on the Aemilian Way.

alibajalajaula

Imola is also the city is where the Formula 1 Grand Prix of San Marino is run every year. This Imola red color has heritage. BTW, maxcat2 congrats on your purchase. I have the same ZHP 4dr, same color, for almost a year. It's been an exhilarating experience. Drive long and prosper!

maxcat2

While I appreciate the reply I think it has confused me further on the pronunciation as I do not know all of the grammer thingies used. English classes are far behind me. Is the pronunciation closer to "e mow lay". Thanks. Hopefully I won't have to consult the great and all knowing Grammaticles.

fcao

I still think it's not a good idea to name the dealers specificlly, because the salemen were apparently very reluctant when gave me those low price offers.

I can say both dealers (both the one I bought my car and the one I got the really low price offer) are within several miles radius of Irvine, CA. I think it's not hard for you to narrow down by looking at a map, by yourself.

By the way, kyfdx, how did you optain the statistical reliability data of South Africa cars? I'm just curious to know. This kind of information is helpful for my future purchasing and other readers of this forum.

I would guess BMW is not willing to disclose that kind of statistical data, because that can only "punch BMW itself in its face" by depreciate some of its manufacturing plants.

ursamajor

I have learned a great deal here. I have now passed on the sedan, as any coupe I can negotiate a bit for will be at least $ 50/mo. less on a 3-yr lease. I didn't know that the coupe and sedan have different promotion programs. One dealer told me I could lock the .0008 MF on a unit being built to be delivered in mid-March, which provides some flexibility. I also found that the coupe colors differ somewhat from the sedan. The key is getting $ 2k under MSRP, as kyfdx has indicated. I am also having a problem getting the 6CD residualized. I have always liked the styling of the coupe better than the sedan, but mistakenly assumed that the incentives were identical, and the folks I deal with didn't even offer to apprise me of the substantial difference, even though I am single and have no need for four doors. The fold-down rear seats are standard on the coupe, so that's a plus and I need that extra storage.

On another subject, has anyone on this board driven the 6 speed manual? Any thoughts? I do like the Steptronic, and it's practical, but I drove manuals for 30 years, so it's second nature with me. And I believe the MSRP is $ 1200 less, so what do you think?

coby03

ursamajor,

I think you should be able to get $2K under MSRP. The person I dealt with was the Internet sales manager and the BMW dealership general manager, so that helps cutting through the normal back and forth of the sales guy being in the middle. The deal I went with in the end was a 5% reduction off of MSRP, which turned out to be a $2270 discount. They allowed me to do the same regarding locking in the 0.0008 MF and 60% RV even though the car probably won't arrive until mid-April.

When we test drove the 330Ci, it was a non-ZHP but did have the sport package. It only had a 5 speed manual, however, as it was a 2003 CPO (certified pre-owned). Even with that, it was by far the best shifting of all manulas we test drove (including the Audi S4 and A4, Acura TL, G35, and Mustang GT). The ZHP, with the M short throw shifter and 6 speed configuration, will only be better. Enjoy!

mjordanszd

Walt, I need your help if you had a few minutes. I ordered a 330 back in early December, and am scheduled to take delivery on Saturday. I'm planning on sticking with the December resid and mf, since that seems to be a better deal, as you've pointed out several time, than taking the $3800 and the current resid/mf.

The ca and I have always been $20-25 off per month on our calculations. I've been using the interactive lease feature at leaseguide. Just tried webguy's Excel lease program from the 'fest. I must just be missing something, so wanted to see where you come out on calculations.

Here are the terms:

MSRP: 41,170
Base cap: 38,915
Costs added: 0
Cap reduce: 525 (to cover acq fee)
Sec dep: 500 (already paid)
Resid: 58%
MF: .0007 (I let his f&i guy take .0001 over)
Tax %: 6.75

My calculations show $477/mo. His are at $499. Not sure why.

I've also given thought to rolling the cap reduction, as well as 1st payment, back into the lease - given the very low mf. My sense is that will result in about a $30/mo increase - sound right?

Thanks for your help.

grantchstr

What financial incentives are there currently (February 2005 Presidents Day Week) on a 325xi or i. I have to do a deal this week (Tristate area).
I assume that the cars on the dealers lot will get the best deals. If a dealer doesnt have the car you want - and has to get it from another dealer I assume that jacks up the cost?

Is $350 a month (36 months - includes 6% sales tax) ) with $4250 up front anything special for a bare bones no leather stick shift 2005 xi?

bretaa

Hi everyone,

I had a quick question that I posted on another BMW board but I wondered what the Edmunds forum users thought as well. In the future, when my income is slated to increase substantially, I'd love to update cars every 1-3 years or so, keeping a winter beater to use in bad weather to keep the new car in good shape.

What is the smartest way to do this financially? Is it to:

1) Just do three year leases? (assuming I won't put on heavy miles since I'd have the other winter car)

2) Buy every three years and sell the previous model on my own, getting back the maximum residual?

3) Buy every three years and then trade in the previous car, knowning the residual from the dealer won't be as high, but the effort (and cost) to sell so often won't be there.

4) Assuming I can deal with not having a model that just rolled off the assembly line, buy a 2 yr old pre-owned car (in a current generation) and then sell every 1-3 years or so and repeat the process. The question here is do I loose more residual $$ in the preowned car over 1-2 years of ownership than I would a new car over a 1-2 yrs of ownership.

Has anyone crunched the numbers before? What do all of you do? As some additional background, my next car will probably be a next generation M3 when it comes out or something else in that price range in late '07/early '08. I am a very happy owner of a '01 330i right now, which I bought as a CPO from a dealer in '03 in a process that I thought worked really well.

I know that all car buying is not financially "smart," and the best thing money-wise is to own an inexpensive vehicle for 15 years and put the rest into a 401K, etc., but I've had the auto enthusiast bug since age 4 and have never looked back... As far as I'm concerned, I work to afford food, shelter, and finely tuned high performance sedans and I can't deprive myself :-). I'm sure you all know what I'm talking about.

Any feedback would be appreciated. Thank you!

- Bret
'01 330i

kyfdx

Your payment of the acquisition fee upfront does not reduce the cap cost.. I believe that is where your mistake lies..

The acquisition fee is a separate charge.. You either roll it in, or pay it upfront.. The base cap is the selling price, which doesn't include that fee, so you can't reduce the cap..

That said, I come up with about $462+tax or $493/mo...

Rolling in the 1st payment ($525) and acquisition fee ($525) will add $1050 to the cap cost and increase the payment to $492+tax or $525/mo. That isn't a bad idea, considering the very low money factor..

I think you are correct in taking the December program.. It is about $35/mo. cheaper than using the February program, even with a cap cost of $3800 less..

The one thing to remember.. You really don't want to buy the car at the end of the lease.. The higher residual precludes that....

regards,
kyfdx

kyfdx

Almost impossible to tell.. Need more info..

MSRP
breakdown of upfront charges..
Mileage allowance on lease..

My first inclination is that it is a decent deal.. but need more..

kyfdx

This is a great question..

This is all just opinion.. and, I'll try to keep my answers BMW specific.. I'll assume all cars are kept for three years, and that mileage is only 10K/yr.

Option #4 will probably be the cheapest.. Although, maintenance/repair costs will be higher, due to owning cars out of warranty.. The key to making this work, is to buy from private owners, and sell the car yourself.. The difference between trade-in vs. private party will just kill you, if you are swapping every three years... I would concentrate on cars that are two model years old, but that were bought late in the model year..

For instance, this past fall, when the '05s came out, I would have been looking for an '03 that was purchased in the summer.. giving me 2.75 years of warranty left..

I think option #1 is much preferable to options #2 or #3... The guaranteed residual on a BMW lease is hard to beat.. Depending on your local sales taxes, you can save by leasing, as well...

One key to this, is to know which cars have the best leasing incentives.. Sometimes, if you have to have a specific car, you are better off buying it..

The other option.. is to assume other leases.. this is especially good if you want something different more often than every three years.. Swapalease is the biggest of the websites that does this..

regards,
kyfdx

mjordanszd

Good catch on my error; it's listed in my lease worksheet from the ca in the cap reduction line, even though it's really just an up-front payment of the acq fee.

Thanks for running the numbers for me. I appreciate it.

richk1

hi all - any chance someone out there can provide a dealer reco and recent pricing info for leasing a 330xi(preferably with premium & cold weather package but w/out nav) in the NYC/NJ area?

Not for me, but I'm doing the leg work for a less internet savvy friend.

Thanks,
Rich

threedals

Does anyone know if satellite radio can be added to a 330ci convertible? I am primarily interested in the integrated model that is part of the existing sound system.The 3 series convertible brochure lists Sirius as an option but the BMWUSA web site says it is an option for 5,6, and 7 series only. My dealer is checking into it, but has not heard back from the corporate office.

gtnash

Just purchased 2005 325i Premium package, Auto, heated seats,leather.. Final pricing after title tax, fees paid 31550.. How'd I do?

paule

If a dealer doesnt have the car you want - and has to get it from another dealer I assume that jacks up the cost?

I wouldn't think that the dealer having to get the car from another dealer should really affect the price at all.

I've done this on both new cars I've bought and basically the dealer just needs to "trade" one of his cars for the car he's getting.

The only caveat to this is that the dealer will have some cost involved if the car is physically on the other dealer's lot since he will have to get it transported to his lot. This should be a minimal cost to him depending on distance.

If the car is not yet at the other dealer but is "owned" by the other dealer, it should be a simple transfer and no additional cost is involved.

mjday1972

Sounds like an outstanding deal, congrats! In what part of the country are you located?

gtnash

I'm in Va

ndmd

I have a 2004 330Cic. I just purchased the Sirius receiver and antenna off Ebay (one year old). I installed in myself, with little difficulty. Believe me, I do not usually work on my cars myself. It works beautifully with the OEM head unit.

chipcollector

I have been offered the following 3 year lease deal on a '05 325i with an MSRP of $ 33,715:

36 months
10,000 miles annually
$399 per month
59% residual
0.0225 MF

The up-front payment(s) will be a 'refundable' security deposit of $450, the first month's payment and the cost of the license tag.

Based upon the posts on this site, you would think that the car be purchased (instead of leased) for around $29,300.

Should I pay cash at $29,300?
Should I lease for $399?

Even at $399 the lease payment seems "high" compared to the potential purchase price.

Could use some sage advice. I am really "on the fence"

Regards to all who post here.

CHIP

kyfdx

1) I'm assuming it is $399 + tax.. If so, then that imputes a selling price of about $29,600 with a cap cost of $30,225 including the $625 acquisition fee..

2) Because the incentive is in cash, there really isn't anything that makes the lease extremely better than buying.. Just the normal positives and negatives each way..

Positives:
Guaranteed residual.. with the new model coming out, you won't have to worry about taking a big hit in value..
Possible sales tax savings over buying..
Lower payment.

Negatives:
Lease factor imputes an APR of 5.4%.. I've seen current 60 month finance rates of 4.65%
$625 acquisition fee isn't paid on a purchase.

It probably comes down to whether you are more comfortable leasing or buying.. If you like to trade every three years, then I would definitely lease... If you think you might drive four years or more, you are probably better off buying..

$29,600 at 4.65% for 60 months is $554 (plus tax).

The lease deal as quoted is good.. If it includes sales tax, it is fantastic..

One other point.. If you think you might need 12K/year, that only drops the residual by 1%, and only raises the payment by $9/mo.

regards,
kyfdx

chipcollector

Hi Kydfx:

Thanks for the very prompt response to my question.

In answer to your query, the $399 per month lease payment does not include sales tax. Tax is additional.

As to the $625 acquisition fee, my experiemce is that the dealer's here try and collect a "dealer fee" on purchases too (usually $400-400) so that the $625 lease fee may not be all too different than what I would be up against in a purchase.

Think I should try and get another $10-$15 a month less in the lease price?????

Thanks

chip

kyfdx

The $625 is charged by the bank.. If the dealer adds a "dealer fee" or "doc fee", then they will probably add it, whether lease or buy.. Those are all garbage fees (not the acq.fee) that are designed to increase the profit margin..

Should you try to get less? Sure.. It can't hurt to say, "Knock another $10/month off and you have a deal".

But, it is a good deal now, so don't sweat it, if that is the best you can do..

regards,
kyfdx

hpowders

Hey kyfdx.
My 2002 325 lease from BMW Financial Services is finished this August. How many months can I extend this lease? My idea is to get a Lexus during their favorable money factor "December To Remember" promotion.
Thanks for your help in this matter.
hpowders

kyfdx

I'm not sure... call the 800# on your lease statement... it seems like I remember them doing at least six months extra at the same payment.. They may do odd numbers of months, but I'm not certain.. Probably only BMWFS can answer that..

regards,
kyfdx

hpowders

Thank you.
hpowders

pjt

kyfdx:
I've been on the proverbial shelf for a couple of weeks, but am in the process of wrapping up a deal on a 330Cic lease. With your help, as well as the input from other forum posters, I've negotiated a very nice deal on a 3-year, 15,000 miles/year lease. It's truly good to be an informed consumer.

Anyway, this is a business (perk) lease with a budget "cap" that I can expense up to. For past leases, I have increased my monthly lease payment by purchasing extra miles at the front end of the lease; the objective being to use my full budget allocation while reducing the residual/buy-out cost of the vehicle at lease end. I then have the option of buying the car, or having the excess account balance applied to a new lease as a cap cost reduction. Obviously, there's a money cost/interest aspect to the latter choice, but I haven't figured out a better way to accomplish the stated objective. I'll listen to any advice and/or suggestions.

That aside, what is BMW's current cost per mile for the up-front purchase of additional lease miles? I believe that it used to be $.15, but suspect that it may be higher. My dealer thinks that it may be $.17 or $.18 (he wasn't certain). This seems high considering that the miles cost $.20 at the back end of a lease.

Thanks, in advance, for your opinion on this.

Regards,
pjt

chipcollector

Thanks Kyfdyx!

I will let you know if I pull the trigger!

chip

pec1970

Which Sirius model did you get and where did you place the antenna? Did you need to do any wiring? I am nervous about installing myself, especially if wires are involved. I can get an integrated one installed at the dealer for $650 but the car can not have BMW assist, and it's hard to find a 330 convert without it.

kyfdx

Everything I've heard is that it is $0.16/mile..

Just make sure that it reduces the residual, and isn't just an extra charge.. Otherwise, it is just money wasted...

And, you can always get them to roll all of the upfront money into the lease, including the security deposit, first payment, acq.fee, etc... You can walk out with nothing due at signing, if you want... That should get the payment up a little more..

Again, make sure they are rolling the upfront charges into the cap cost, not increasing the moneyfactor to waive them..

regards,
kyfdx

saintor

BMW has a very good lease deal going these days. E46 are phasing out.

3.5% leasing 39 months 62% residual. there is a special package on 325i (Canada only) that include sunroof, electrical seat w/memory, 17", Harmann Kardon radio for 3500$CAD less than a normal built 325i.

I leased one. I negociated a 5% discount on the 43100$CAD (+ 1495$ PDI) PSDF. Instead of 700-725$ per month, it would be 580$CAD txs incl. (at least 100$ less than an ACura TL 6 sp. Dynamic on a 48 mo). It is even less expensive than a TSX on a 42mo lease.

I have required a few more kilometers in the deal and with my credit of taxes, it is 569$. After 50000miles they guarantee a residual of 26000$CAD. Also, maintenance is included 36 months.

needashower

I'm waiting for BMW to offer dealer cash on Xi's like it is offering on the i's. Anyone else think that this is likely?

fasteddy001

Ok, going in tomorrow or monday (last day of the month) and may lease a 2005 xi stripped except for cold weather and the upcharg on metallic paint. Got this deal going over the phone. One thing to mention, there are not a lot of 325xi manuals that are stipped left so don't know how much bargaining power i have.

36 month. 15k a year

MSRP $32,745
cap cost $30,700
MOney factor .00125 (3%)
UPfront fees total $2003
1st month $410, security $450, Reg fee $318 ($200 doc fee + plate fees and inspection), and acq fee: $825
Monthly payment $406.71 (including 5% ma tax)

Anyway, I'd like to get the money factor down to .00100 but the sales guy says this is the lowest they can go on a 325xi- is that true? Also I know some of the up front costs could be rolled over, but the $400 payment is my pain threshold for a monthly payment.

peakpro

Possibly in the summer but I think you run the risk of very slim pickings.

My suggestion is the get a good deal on the "i" series and spend the money you save on a set of snow tires.

kyfdx

This is a good deal.. The base money factor on the Xi is .00125, so that is the best you can do.. The figures are right on the money.

Just a couple of things.. They are marking up the acquisition fee by $200.. The base fee is $625, so you might ask them to lower that... Or, the price of the car by another couple of hundred to make up for it.. And, make sure they are giving you floor mats..

A pretty good deal, if that is all you have to worry about... Good luck.

regards,
kyfdx

expertbi

I am new to leasing...when you say cap cost - is that the final negotiated price of the car? Also, what is the money factor?

fasteddy001

Kyfdx- thanks for the input, much appreciated

Expertbi- cap cost is the negotiated price of the car (+ or - any extras "rolled-in"). IN my example $30,700 but I had no extras "rolled in". The difference between the cap cost and the residual value is the amount you are financing. I could have increased my cap cost by rolling over some of the upfront fees into, say the $825 acquistion fee, which would have made my cap cost $31,525.

andywuwei

Went to testdrive a 330i sedan yesterday and was very impressed by the handling and performance. The dealer was running a tax saving incentive and told me they would sell all 3 series at cost. Here is the offer I got:

BMW 330i sedan
Options:
Premium package (leather included)
Automatic transmission
HK sound
Heated seat
Xenon headlight

MSRP: 41,545
Invoice: around 38,500(my estimate)
Price I got: $34,882

Given the new 2006 3 series is coming in two months, is this still a good deal? Any comments would be greatly appreciated.

By the way, I am in Indiana.

kyfdx

Well.. I don't think that is his cost.. Your estimate fo the invoice is a little high (at least by $500).. And the dealer incentive is
$3800.

That said, if the only additions to that selling price are tax, title, license... Then it is a very good deal, and I'd snap it up..

When you are buying a brand-new car.. how much it is worth compared to the new model coming out is pretty much irrelevant.. That model is unavailable at this time, and the dealer won't sell this one for a loss... The only thing you can compare it to, is what others are paying..

Your price is definitely on the low end..

regards,
kyfdx

ursamajor

2005 330 Ci coupe, 6sp. manual, metallic paint, leather, premium pkg., 6CD changer.

MSRP $ 41265
Cap. cost $ 39260
MF .0008
36 mo. lease, 30k miles
$ 498.76/mo. incl. 8.25% CA sales tax (460.75 without tax)
Driveoff $ 1361 (which is a puzzle, as the internet sales mgr. wrote me that it includes 1st mo., refundable sec. dep., bank and DVM fees). I think the bank fee is residualized, but I will know more tomorrow. This car is not available, and "we could order you one from March production with delivery in 8-10 weeks." I have credit apps. in at three sources to lock the low MF, which expires tomorrow.

Thanks again for your view of this proposal.

ursamajor

I am a bit concerned about the "March order" and whether the time period required for delivery is consistent with the 60-day or approx. 8 week MF lock. I have three outfits working this deal, so should be able to find a model to suit me without starting an order from scratch. Any thoughts on what to avoid here? I have asked for a written committment on all of these deals; don't know why I couldn't obtain that.

coby03

ursamajor,

I basically just did it. I ordered one to be built during the 12th week of the year (wk of 3/21) and then 3-4 weeks for delivery after that. They took the credit app with BMW FS and locked in the MF/RV. I wanted to do that in Feb since I don't see it going lower than 0.0008 (MF) for the 330Ci. I did all this via email, so I guess I have it writing ;-). The wait will be the hardest.

mabubba

Hey andywuwei, I am in Indiana also, what dealer did you get the offer from?

mabubba

alex_1

Hi folks, I just tested a new 330i/ZHP/Auto (dealer had no 6-speed available) and have to say that I was pretty impressed with the handling. Now I want one and I would like to know how you guys price this car. I am the type that prefers to give the dealer my "bid" as opposed to accept his "offer" and do this by e-mail or voice-mail. So I need a pricing formula to get "fair value" if you will and I found these two right here (many thanks to the contributors):

Formula 1:
Price = Invoice - 3800 + DealerProfit

Formula 2:
Price = MSRP - $6000

Going to CarsDirect (CD) I noticed that the first formula gives the dealer about $1400 profit on the 330i. Is this profit typical of what a dealer might accept?

Now let's take my selected car as an example:

330i/ZHP/Xenons/MysticBlue
MSRP = $41,470
INV. = $38,301
CD_Price = $35,901

You can see that using Formula 1 the CD_Price gives the dealer a $1400 profit and I noticed this to be true by executing other option combinations as well at carsdirect.com.

The second formula would give the dealer $969 profit. To me $1000 profit "feels right" and should be accepted assuming that this is not a "hot" car and it's fair to say that this is indeed the case here with this year's release of the new body style.

So should I bid $1000 DealerProfit for the car and are my chances good for getting it? BTW, I live in Southern California and plan to contact 8 dealers.

Thank you for any comments and best regards. This is a great forum.

Offering to pay the dealer $1000 profit would make the price $35,501 (something I believe is fair) but would the dealer turn their back at such offer in the current market?

andywuwei

Thanks for your comment. I finally decided to wait for the 06 model. Hope the new 3 won't disapoint me.

andywuwei

mabubba,

It's Dreyer & Reinbold BMW in Indianapolis.

http://www.dreyerandreinboldbmw.com/

I got the offer WITHOUT negotiation. Probably you can do better. Monday (Feb. 28) is the last day of this promotion. Got be quick.

Good luck and let us know how it goes.

andywuwei

kyfdx

This is a good deal.. I ran the numbers, and the acq.fee is in the cap cost, which makes it even better...

You'd have to take delivery in April, to use the February numbers.. You have no guarantee of that.. other than letting your dealer know that you will walk away, if the lease deal isn't at least as good as this month.. You've left him about $1500 profit, so maybe he'll be willing to eat the difference, if it rolls over into May, and the deals aren't as good...

These deals may hang on for awhile, but I'm not sure they can get a lot better..

regards,
kyfdx