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MSRP: $45,770
Invoice: $42,330
Cap cost: $43,330
Residual: $28,377
Acq fee: $825
Sec Dep: $625
Reg/fees: $375
MF: .00245
Tax: 7.75%
Down: $1,700
Payment: $665/mo
Options:
automatic, park distance control, comfort access(just added to 5 series, $1000 option not on web site yet dealer can order for cars with later delivery date), navigation, sport pkg, premium pkg, tire upgrade, auto sunshades. MSRP 52,000+
paid 46,300 out the door.
Living in Germany now, what a deal not sure how stateside people can take advantage of this but there has to be a way. Shipping back to the states will cost me $900 from a local shipping company. Now I have not recieved it yet so I am wondering from all 5 series owners how is your 5 series holding up I have noticed that the 05 got bad ratings from consumer report on reliabilty is this occuring?
What are your thoughts on the price?
The biggest thing I was able to see w/ the dealers willing to deal is the size of the dealer. Perhaps your NC dealers are a little smaller. Have you considered looking in atlanta (Global and United)?
The black interior is sweet. Mine also has the Anthrasite Maple wood trim, which is nearly black. It gives the inside a very monochrome, sporty type of look - definately happy w/ it and would recommend.
Enjoy
I was the one who did all the negotiations for my friend. She just sat there and relaxed. You know how some dealers like to take an advantage of unsuspected buyers (read not so familiar with the buying process). For me to make that deal it was quite simple and painless. I have negotiated at least 20 new car purchases for my friends and co-workers in the last year or so. I am not a broker just a friend who try to help others. I just made several calls to surrounding dealers Internet/fleet managers and told them what I was looking for in a car with specific options and color. If they had one, then I would ask what is their rock bottom fleet/internet deal. Most often, they quoted me a very competitive price. Most quotes were within $500 or less of each other. Taking in consideration their attitude on the phone, their price, and their location, I would either thank them for their time or go and purchase from one of them. It is very simple. I am always honest, courteous and professional. I try not to waste my time or theirs. They seemed to like that.
Regarding the 6yrs/100,000 miles extended maintenance, the finance manager started @ $1995. I told him that I would pay $1,195 for the maintenance agreement or I would shop around, since I have time, and buy it from another large volume dealer in Southern California (drop a name of dealership). Typically, as long as you allow them to make a little profit they will sell you what you want at a reasonable price.
If you think about the $1,195 for the 6yrs/100,000 miles maintenance agreement, this will pay for itself as it will include an inspection 2 (@ 60,000 miles) which can range from $700-$1000 and a brake job which includes front and rear discs and pads and sensor for another $1,000. In addition, it would pay for other items such as wiper blades, coolant service, brake fluid flush, as recommended by BMW.
To me the $1,195 is a no-brainer for the extended maint..
Spyderred.
How many miles/year is the lease for?
i've never leased a car before
i've been offered a 530i with premium, cold weather, automatic, sat radio
price 50k (MRSP 51615)
residual 32517
rate 0.00175
36 month/10,000 miles a year
state tax 6.0
initial payment (includes all taxes and fees, 1st month and 500 security deposit) of 4803
and monthly payments (including taxes) of 600
any advice would be very welcome
i know it isn't a lot of miles of year, but i expect to use a little less based on previous driving
thank you
First payment $600
Security deposit $600
Then what?
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1st month and security deposit
acq fee 625,and i don't know if this is part of the money down or do i pay it later?
i was not told the breakdown of the rest (which i will get prior to further negotiations)-motor vehicle fees?
thank you
$2900 down
$600 payment
$600 deposit
$625 acq.fee
That is almost $4800, right there...
Here is what we know..
$1615 discount from MSRP... A little weak, but if they are using the base acq.fee and money factor (and, they are), not a bad deal.. just fair..
Using your figures... I get $545/mo. + tax.. I don't know where you live, but that looks awfully high for tax.... The other explanation, is that there is about $700 of doc, dealer, and registration fees in your upfront money, and that acquisition fee is being added into the cap cost and the monthly payment..
If that is the case, then the payment would be $563/mo. + tax, and the numbers would make sense.. However, I'd want to see how the rest of that money upfront is broken down... Any other fees above state required registration, etc., should be considered part of the selling price... and, your selling price is high enough already.
Also, it is never a good idea to put money down on a lease... It makes the payment seem palatable, but it really doesn't decrease your costs any..
I'd do it this way:
$51615 MSRP
$50000 Selling price
$50625 CAP cost (selling price + acq.fee)
.00175 MF
63% residual
3yr/30K lease
Payment = $649/mo.+ tax
Due at signing = 1st payment, security deposit, title/license/registration. (approx. $1700 total)
Actually, I'd hope for another $500-$1000 lower selling price, but at least they are using the base rates..
regards,
kyfdx
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I have the total amount to be financed (negotiated car price - cash down + license & fees), APR and number of months.
I know there are plenty of online calculators to determine the monthly payment, but I need to know the equation so I'll be able to create an excel spreadsheet I can take with me to the car dealer.
Also, if the dealer finances me through a local bank (as opposed to BMWFS), is there a legitimate banking/processing/document fee or is that a junk fee? And again, this is all for a purchase not a lease.
Thanks
Perhaps there is an amortization program that you could buy, and download onto your laptop?
Most loans that I've had, have a charge for VSI (vendors single interest) insurance.. Either $50 or $100... It insures the lender against default (I think), but you get to pay for it!! The acquistion fees you see are just for leases.. Even BMWFS won't have that on a purchase.
Other than that, there might be a small fee to have the lien recorded and a small document fee (under $50). There could be a big document fee, but those are just dealer padding... always decline to pay those, or have them subtract that amount from the purchase price.
regards,
kyfdx
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Sport Package
Navigation
Premium Sound
Leather
The MSRP comes out to $54,845. I have looked at different sites and the invoice seems to be in the area of $49,885.
I will be going for a 3 year, 18k per year lease.
Can someone tell me what kind of money factor, etc... I should be shooting for to get a good deal?
Thanks for any help.
MSRP $59770
MF .00280(6.72%)
residual 59%
$915 per month(7% tax)
545i (5% discount from MSRP paid)
MSRP $58170
MF 0.0010(2.4%)
residual 59%
$718 per month(7% tax)
Moral: Glad I went with the 545i, saving almost $7100.
This assumes of course in this age of greed that you can find a BMW dealer who will make a deal on the 550i with the base money factor. I wouldn't be at all surprised if they jack it up to 0.0032!
Zoom! Zoom! Heh! Heh!
....And also a 5% discount!
I asked for the full service record and the saleman told me that (1) none was provided by the former owner, and (2) that his service dept cannot access records for service rendered at other dealers. The only service the current dealer did on the car was the prep for the CPO (which they provided). The only other record they have are a few "service codes" for work done at other dealers, which they said they can translate into what was actually done. Is this normal? Would Carfax help? I am hesistant about buying a used car, even a CPO one, w/o full service record.
All service performed at any BMW dealer will be on the vehicle history report... If he won't go to the service department and pull the report (takes 5 minutes), then I wouldn't even consider buying the car....
Another thing that is on the report... the in-service date and warranty and maintenance plan expiration date.. That is something else that I would want included in any sale... The extended maintenance plan that matches the CPO warranty..
If this isn't a BMW dealer, then disregard all that..
regards,
kyfdx
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Yes, it is a BMW new car dealer! I asked for the full service history, and the CPO checklist signed off by their service department. The saleman showed me the in-service date -- it was late Sept 2002 so the maintenance plan is still valid. In fact, he was pushing the extended maintenance plan for $2K.
tfc1
The service history thing is just wrong... They should show it to you, and take you back to a service manager that can explain all of the codes...
I like that you would have 3 full years of warranty left... and, if you get the maintenance package, you'd have a fairly low-cost car, in terms of maintenance and repairs...
regards,
kyfdx
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Thanks !
Going through a change of life. Took a new position with a commute of 70 miles each way(compared to eight blocks). This is my excuse for getting rid of my 93 LS400-a car without a soul. I am looking at an off lease 5-speed 2002 525i with PP, SP, CWP and Xenons. The car has 19,500 miles and full maintenance history. The dealer wants $30,900. It has the CPO warranty. The previous owner (leasee) had some scrapes on the rear bumper and hood that the dealer has fixed in its body shop. I am not too concerned as the repairs look pretty good. The dealer is offering 2.9% financing. Should I jump on this?
That is a nice option package, also...
If you are looking for something to negotiate for... ask for the extended factory maintenance package that mirrors the CPO warranty terms... That way, nothing to buy but tires, until you hit 100K.... Probably a $1500-$1600 value...
The only negative... When you go to sell this car in January of '08 with 100K on the odometer... you are going to take a large hit in depreciation... BMWs are pretty expensive to mile up.. If I had to drive 35K miles/year, I'd look for a new Civic....
regards,
kyfdx
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Miles are nice and low for sure for a 2002.
I could have bought a 2003 new for around $37K. I would negotiate the price more.
My '93 Camry is no longer cutting it - non functioning driver's window, intermittent A/C ... etc. Its time to go and this time I want to step up to a REAL car.
I like the 3, but am considering a 5. For those knowledgeable , could you please help with a few questions? I have two kids. I tend to keep cars until they die. I am considering a 5 because of a "percieved" space increase. Is this true? Looking/sitting in them at the dealer, they seem about the same on the inside. I'd prefer the increased space for luggage, kids (+ toys/road trip parapharnelia, etc). Is the added cost worth the gain in roominess? Is there really an increase in space/comfort luxury?
Secondly - please bear with this question, I have the opportunity to purchase either vehicle through a program available to federal employees living abroad. For a 325: 325 w/ CWP, Prem Pkg, Auto, Active Steering, CA, Pkg Control, Xenon, Nav for $35,000 + delivery (2150) = $39,400
BMW WEBSITE = $42,145
Edmunds Invoice = $38,650
For a 525: 525 w/CWP, Prem, Auto, Active Steering, CA, Pkg Control, Xenon, Nav, HUD $47,560 + delivery (2150) = $49,710
BMW WEBSITE = $53,770
Edmunds Invoice = $49,230
Again, bear with me ... the answers may seem blaringly obvious (I assume Edmunds' invoice is accurate), but is the pricing that has been quoted to me "fair"/competive? Could I be able to haggle or do better on my own mano a mano with a dealer?
Last one: active steering ... anyone have any comments on this? I am considering it because 1) my wife complains that cars (generally speaking) feel heavy to steer @ low speeds (she's tiny) 2) I rolled a SUV with a rapid evasive maneuver @ high speed. Friend says this will help control rapid steering inputs and help prevent rolling a vehicle ( i also realize SUV = higher center of gravity).
I respectfully thank you once again for all the helpful advice and look forward to any responses, comments, or help from the community.
I am thinking the ED option. Does anyone know from where I can find out the invoice for 06 330 and 06 530? Thanks.
fm
For the 330i, subtract $2510 for the ED invoice price.
For the 530i, subtract $3160 for the ED invoice price.
regards,
kyfdx
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All the best with your decision
AWD helps you get started. Stopping and cornering are different. AWD adds weight which will INCREASE your braking distance (in dry and snowy conditions) as well as maybe adding extra reaction time in an accident avoidance manevuer. For the rest of the year that it doesn't snow (360 days (give or take) you will get poorer fuel economy and have the car's acceleration and handling characteristics hampered. The All Season Tires on the AWD cars are a compromise. You'll be able to enjoy a SP equipped RWD BMW more for the rest of the year. If my 56 year old narotic Jewish mother can drive a RWD 530iA (E60) through a NY winter, than you can.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD
I highly recommend that you get it inspected before you plunk down any money.
The dealer msrp for 29900, and the sales person willing to offer 28905.
my question is this a good deal? This is almost Oct and soon this vehicle will be depreciate again in year 2006.
I want to pay 27204 (based on edmunds price) with 2005 3/4depreciation taken off = 25108.00 + certifed warranty of 2000, total of 27108.00.
Do you think 27108.00 is fair and reasonable?