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I have had the vehicle in 4 times now for this issue. The dealership has replaced the sensor, wiring, and the reader unit (behind the display). Still, like yours, it takes about 20 minutes of driving to reach the higher temperatures (105). In the morning though, it will quickly drop down to the (close to) correct temperature (ie. 20 seconds to do this). I'm trying not to care, but, as you may feel, when you buy a new car, everything is expected to function properly. Maybe the hot climates (like ours) are what affect this funtion...
In the meanwhile, I still can't figure the poor acceleration problem. I bought my car to two dealers and they couldn't find out what is wrong. The acceleration isn't as quick as when it's brand new. I also noticed the RPM seems high at highway speed. It was under 2500 at 70 mph (flat surface). It is above 2500 on the same road. I checked transmission fluid and looks fresh. But I will change it at many suggested at 15K to 20K mile intervals for city driving.
During acceleration/deacceleration on second and third gear (at 2000-2700 rpm) there is a noise. It only appears at 2WD. When I switch to 4WD it runs smooth.
After rocking the exhaust system, I noticed that in the front, where there is some kind of elastic part, the pipes that seemed to be apart hitting each other producing a scratching noise. Could this be the cause? Does the engine stabilize at 4WD?
/The Swede
I do have some minor problems with the Sorento, the rear door sometimes doesn't lock right so when all the doors are unlocked electronically, and it won't open. Also, when the AC is on and when my car is still running in park, there are noise coming from the fan belt. But hey, for the cost I paid for the Sorento, and the way it is driving, these are just minor items and not complaints
I want to have more room with seat bottoms out.
The nut is really tight and won't budge. IT's a 04 sorento.
Thanks for any comeback.
Just checking to see if anyone has had similar issues. Bought a new Kia Sorento EX 4x2 with ABS Car had 134 miles at time of purchase as a result of test drives.
Leaving the Dealership we already noticed something, the car was not shifting smooth, there were jerks in between the shifts, more stronger at low speeds.
Having driven many vehicles prior to picking this up, we figured it is just anxeity and ignored it.
Over the next 2 days, we found additional problems, steering was not straight (more towards left) and when the car was placed in reverse and then in drive, the bottom front made a rumbling noise.
Took the car back to dealer where it is currently. They checked up on the transmission and informed that the oil pressure is exessive and that the entire transmission needs to be replaced. They said that they will fix the steering and the noise issue as well. The tranmission will take a week to arrive and considerable time to put it in following that.
Should this be acceptable for a new car? Is the car worthy of keeping after such issues at it's purchase time. Dealer is not willing to give a new Sorento in exchange. We are concerned that if the car is off to a start this questionable, not sure what to expect next?
Frank
warranty after a reasonable number of repair attempts, the manufacturer is required promptly to replace the vehicle or return the purchase price to the lessee or buyer. The reasonable number of repair attempts will depend on the circumstances including the seriousness of the defect. For example, one or two repair attempts may be considered reasonable for serious safety defects such as brake failure. There are some provisions of the law in your state.
Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC) are retrieved using the switches on the FATC control panel.
(1) Turn the ignition switch to the ON position
(2) Set the temparture to 77'F (25'C)
(3) Hold A/C switch down and press the Mode switch
more than three times within five seconds. All
graphic segments will blink two times at the
rate of four cycle per second. The letters
"HHCC" will then appear and blink at the same
rate. At that point, self-diagnostic will
initiate. After all DTCs are displayed, the
codes will be displayed two additional times
before the FATC unit exists the
self-diagnostic routine.
Here are the DTC codes:
E0 = Normal
E1 = In-car sensor fail
E2 = Ambient sensor fail
E3 = Fin sensor(#1) fail
E5 = Photo sensor(#2) fail
E6 = Temp door potentiometer fail
#1 Fin sensor is a negative temparture coefficient
thermistor installed on the evaporator core...
to prevent evaporator freezing.
#2 Photo sensor is located near the driver side
defrost duct, uses a photovoltaic diode to
transmit light level information to the FATC
control unit. The compensates for change in
solar radiation by adjusting the blower speed
and discharge temparture.
I have to mention that I had a transfer case replace last summer. Few weeks before the replacement, it drove like it is at 4Lo mode when making turns with drag feeling and noise. I wasn't pay attention and I thought I was making a quick U-turn. Then a day before the replacement, it was getting wrost. It drove like it was at 4Lo all the time in any driving condition, straight or turns. I am glad I wasn't travel and the dealer is only minutes away.
My salesperson told me that if they can't get it to work that they will end up reimbursing me something for the fact they can't get it to work, I'm thinking they can put on the spoiler , the side bars and the 6 CD changer for free......
In summation, I think the problem is in hot weather climates. It seems there are not a lot of people on this message board agreeing with our problem. Don't give up your fight to get it fixed. I will update you after the dealer has my car for the day.
Because the Temp. gauge is askew?????????? Don't hold your breath.
I'm in phoenix also. Had a bit of a problem with my amb. temp sensor after I put in new headlights. I have no idea how changing headlights and an improperly reading temp. gauge could possibly correlate but for whatever reason mine kept reading 78 degrees and I knew it was about 185 out. I disconnected my battery for about five minutes and then re-connected. Viola, temp. reading as it should. The cool thing was is that all my memory settings remained. Stereo, gate, garage door all there. Only thing that had to be reset was the temp. readings on the display which reset to degrees C. There's a fix for that in the manual. Don't know if you've given this a try but it worked on mine. Hope this helps.
Take Care,
Bill
1- There is a metallic noise coming from near the left front wheel when i make a full left turn in 2HI mode (it does not make any sound if i turn the wheel while not cruising.) It is like there is a spring that gets released and hits something. Does anyone know anything abt it.
2-Does shift on the fly system has Eaton Carbon LSD too or does that belong to TOD systems only?
3-Can 4HI be used in rainy weather or climbing a steep hill to increase traction? Or would that cause harm to diffs and transfer case.
Thanks to all...
You obviously didn't get the sarcasm there.........do you have the outside temp guage in the upgraded air conditioning system or above the mirror in the standard EX? I would love to know if your temp reading goes up in less than 15-45 minutes worth of driving as the dealership has no clue how to fix it. It seems that the one that is in the upgraded air sysytem has no problems and it is the one above the mirror that has the problem. My car has been in for service 3 times already for other minor issues ( the trunk door gets stuck so it either won't close until you slam it 5 times, or when you do close it it won't reopen until you lock it and unlock it, they still didn't get that adjustment right.) Every time they do something different to the system. Read the earlier posts and you will find the dealer took a brand new one with the plastic still on it , we drove that around and it didn't work either.... My dealer is stumped how to fix the outside temp guage and has replaced everything they could. Any suggestions can be forwarded to Avondale Kia service department........
2 - LSD on 4x4 only
3 - Use 4Lo (low range with more toque) for steep hills, 4Hi is fine for off-road or on snow or wet pavement.
BTW, how is your gas mileage on your Sorento diesel? It has more torque on diesel, 314 lb. ft. @2000 rpm. Do you have auto or manual transmission?
Thanks
My Sorento has 4 speed auto (i looked for one with 5 speed Tiptronic auto but could not find) The gas mileage should be much much better than the V6 available in the States. I used only one tank until now and it lasted something like 750 km ( 22-23 mpg) But heard that it could go up to 27 mpg. And diesel is cheaper than gas. On the other side the car should be much more sluggish than V6.
Dave
My dealer claims the Sorento has ALWAYS been rated at 3500lbs. I would love to squeeze 4000-4500 out of it, but have been warned by many not to try. As for the tranny cooler, that may be the weak link, but i think the hitch might have something to do with it. The one my dealer had put on (Valley Hitch part #82560 - http://www.valleyorders.com/ ) was installed by UHAUL nad has only 2 attachment bolts. So far, EVERY receiver rated for more than 3500lbs has had 3 or more bolts. Any thoughts?
Frank
2- TOD is electronically dis- and engaged with multi-disk clutch, when the system feels different speed of front and rear axles/wheels and you dont need to care about it.
If you have a manual selector (disc shaped, cca. 1 1/4 inch diameter, on tunnel between front seats, you can manually select 2H, 4H and 4L. Attention: THIS IS PART TIME and to use only on VERY wet, snow, mud...
3- In substance yes, but I would avoid sharp turnings.
!!! Do first: To try if your selectable 4x4 is OK, go on gravel surface, select 4x4, turn sharp left or right, go slowly and let somebody watch the wheels. One of them should dig (grub)to release tension in drivetrain. If it does so, you can eliminate fatal problem with shaft or hub.
Check, if the wheel bolts are tightened well, too.
No more ideas. Bye
Got the car back yesterday after the dealer replaced transmission. They called yesterday and informed that the car was ready but the transmission replacement DID NOT fix the problem.
Sorento still shifts hard. Dealer is unsure what to do next. In between waiting for the tranny we discovered following issues along with the unresolved issues:
1) Paint overspray on all 4 calipers
2) Streering makes noises inside the cabin when wide turns are made
3) Oil pipe for power steering is seeping oil next to the pump
4) High annoying pitch in cabin, remains even if stereo /ac is off
5) rumbling noise from front when car backs up and moves forward
6) Steering is now misalinged towards right after re-adjustment. Dealer thinks it is a tire-rod alignment issue
7) poor gas mileage, perhaps due to tranmission issues: 12mpg
Spoke to kia consumer affairs as well as dealer. A kia 'regional rep' is supposed to visit to evaluate the car. Dealer will call us to drop off the car once again.
Dealer in an attempt to account for the overspray of paint on calipers spray painted them black! nice solution to cover up the issue.
Frank
Makes no sense that there was overspray from the calipers. Kia doesn't manufacture the vehicle and then paint the calipers. Well, at least I hope they don't.
What kind of noises are made when you steer on wide turns?
High annoying pitch? What do you mean by this? Wind noise? A faulty ground for the stereo? Noise from the cargo racks on the roof?
Could the 'rumbling noise' you mention from the front end of the vehicle be caused from the ABS? Does this noise happen everytime you backup and then start forward? Or only when you start the vehicle? Does it sound like something is rubbing against plastic?
I'm sorry to hear your having all these problems with your Sorento. Of all the forum contributers here, your the only one that seems to be having these kinds of problems. I really hope Kia pulls through and is able to help you with these problems ASAP.
Good luck.
1) A slight vibration in the gas pedal and a growling sound at speeds between 60 and 65 mph.
Eventually this problem began occuring at speeds of 45 mph as well. My first trip to the dealer resulted in a "we didn't notice anything wrong" .
Eventually it became worse and the service manager took my vehicle for a drive. This time, the problem was noticed. They suspected the drive shaft was not balanced. So, they tried a new drive shaft. No change. Problem still there. Then they suggested that the flange on the drive shaft was not allowing the shaft to move up and down, resulting in a vibration. The flange was replaced and the vibration was gone. This was two weeks ago. Now I can feel the vibration slightly returning and I can only predict that it will get worse.
Any ideas????
2) When I initially pull away (automatic trans), the truck begins accelerating then pauses before continuing...almost like a hiccup! This is at smooth take off, slowly. If it is a quick acceleration, there is no pause.
Could this be bad fuel? PCV valve? Transmission???
3) Often it feels as though the truck is very sluggish, like I'm towing something. I have to give alot of pedal to get it going. This is at all speeds. It doesn't happen every time, but often enough to be discouraged with its performance.
4) Last, but not least; I can hear a steel/whistly rattle at speeds of 30 mph or so when I accelerate enough to put the truck into passing gear. It sounds as though there is a chain dragging beside me. It sounds like a motorcycle with a very loose chain. I don't know what the heck this is, but it is coming from the engine.
I appreciate all that have made it this far through my ranting. I apologize, but I'm just looking for some answers.
Any assistance/input would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
Johnny_S
FD
I'll set up an appointment with my dealer and post the results.
JS.
Transmission problems have 'increased' since the new one was installed. Now the car vibrates (suddders) as it moves at low speeds. It is alomost like when the univeral joint on shaft is busted. Dealer is now having a Kia engineer come down to inspect vehicle and make recommendations as to what to fix next.
I have the pictures of paint overspray on the calipers, if anyone is instersted I can e-mail them.
Spoke to Kia customer care, pretty much same run of the mill stories.. They just apologize that such issues are happening and that is all.
The high pitch noise is even the car is running idle and parked. I have no idea where that comes from. It is not a wind noise rather mechanincal in nature.
I am beginning to suspect that the dealer knew of the issues with this specific Sorento. If a car had 134 miles at the time we bought it, surely the people that drove it must have noticed something wrong with it including the sales people??
The car is going back to dealer on July 30th when the Kia engineer is scheduled to arrive. I will post his assesment then.
Frank
I had no major problems since I have my Sorento. But now, since some weeks, I have 2 problems.
1- When on Defrost, my windshield cracks! Anyone have an idea of what causes this ??!
2- My brake pedal do some noise (sometime, not always), which I didn't have before. It's when I brake hard arriving at a stop and then release the brake pedal that I hear that sound/noise.
If anyone have/had these problems, please let me know.
Hi Lok.. What do you mean by damages ? My winter accident ?
[quote]I think I noticed the noise lately, not always. When I was at the light, I could hear the noise when I press and release the brake before taking off.[/quote]
Exactly. It's the problem that I have. Anyone else ? Mine has about 9000 miles. I do mostly city driving.
hciaffa Sep 8, 2003 12:33pm!keywords=allin:msgtext%20limit:Kia:Sorento%20windshield
In 2003, there was no fix. Hope Kia found a fix in 2004. I will need to talk to my dealer about this issue.
I do hear some tiny cracking sound when A/C is in defrost mode. Sometime is hard to hear due to the surrounding, car noise or traffic.
Some posters have mentioned this before, but I can't think of any fix for this.
As for my break pedal noise, they put some lubricants. Hope it will helps.
Any EX owners - Are the tilt-adjustable headrests only move when the headrests are in rest position? Both front headrests on my EX can't adjust when they are in up position, only in rest (down) position.