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Has anyone had experience with this?
Will any dealers honor this special or even beat it?
Thanks for all the great posts and help here.
Mary
I received an internet quote of 24,790. Went to the dealer in Chicago and they said that didn't include the destination fee ($710). That brought it to $25,500 +TTL. We started to negotiate as I had spent weeks looking in this forum for prices especially OTD. They wouldn't budge at all! Has this happened to anyone? We got so annoyed with this tactic especially after the Sales Manager said "blogs like edmund's arent regulated". That we just left. Has anyone recently in the Chicago area purchased this car for $27,000 OTD. Thanks!
The price you see on the screen is the price you pay, plus taxes and government fees.
Would my local dealer indy charge me for checking this? I cant make a trip to chicago.
Secondly, I havent received title and dealer told me not to call them since state takes long to issue them. I have to register it in indiana within month of purchase and that deadline is coming closer
The one big difference is the power driver's seat in the 2010. An amazing difference due to the ability to change the position more infinitely than in the manual seat 2007.
I can't believe I got $20500 for the old car. That was the true trade in.
Please don't get fleeced. Youre willing to pay $10,219 to drive a rental car for 36,000 miles? Sounds like the most expensive way possible to drive a car.
This cas costs $20,638 (per kbb-what consumers are paying, 2009 CRV LX 2wd).
Maybe you should buy a good used CRV. Leases are awesome deals-for the manufacturer. Good luck.
Amazing resale value.
I have done "self lease" a few times, and you can't go wrong with a Honda. The high resale value is beyond me. Sometime, you will see a used car priced higher than the same new one with manufacturer incentives.
I think some people are jus tlike robots. They have been told to buy used cars because they are a better value, since the first owner took the hit for depriciation, so they do as they are told. Without using their brain, or trying to think. Most People are like Sheep. They will do what they are told without questioning or using their brain. It says so in the book. :-)
Enjoy your new ride, and hope that you can do the same in 3 years.
I have been in the market for a while for CR-V. Can anyone share what is the best price around MA area for a EX or EXL (car cost including destination charge, ttl and documentation fee)?
Any recommendation on which dealer to go to?
Tried purchasing in Aug - during clash for clunkers program and dealers were very busy.
I think I can help you to get best price for EX or EXL.
Click my name to email me further info.
What is the best price we can expect from the dealers. I am in the SFO Bay area.
Any recent buys from this area will be most helpful.
thanks
:shades:
I read somewhere that they get 3% holdback if a car stays on a dealer's lot for 90 days.
Just What is Dealer Holdback?
Dealer holdback is a percentage of the MSRP or Invoice of a new vehicle that is paid to the dealer directly by the manufacturer to assist with the dealership's profit margin. The internet has "let the cat out of the bag" so to speak with regards to giving the consumer access to previously unknown dealer secrets and tricks. By knowing about the holdback, you can use it as a negotiating tool in many cases.
The manufacturer gives the the dealer what is termed "holdback" on each new vehicle sold. On a vehicle that MSRP’s for $25,000 the "holdback" will be in the neighborhood of $700 to $1,000!
The total invoice cost of the car is due to the manufacturer, payable by the dealership, when the vehicle is ordered, not when it is sold. Since car dealerships must have an inventory on hand so you can browse and select a vehicle, they must borrow money from the bank to pay for that inventory (called "flooring"). The manufacturer pays for financing and maintenance for the first 90 days that the vehicle is on the dealer's lot, in the form of a quarterly check called a holdback. After the first 90 days, the dealership dips into its own pocket, and into its own profit, to finance the car. However, we all know that most cars don't stay on the lot for three months especially Toyota's, Honda's and your more popular vehicles of today.
This amount is unknown to you - until now. If the car sells within 90 days of the dealer taking delivery, he is guaranteed a profit even if the vehicle is sold to you at cost. Because of the holdback, the dealer can advertise a car at $1 over invoice and still make hundreds if not thousands of dollars on the sale.
However, the true "profit" of holdback money depends on how long the car has been on the lot. If our hypothetical Chevrolet had been sitting there for 45 days before you bought it, the dealer's holdback profit is only half of what it could have been, or only $300, cutting total profit on the deal to $840. At the 90-day mark, holdback profit has disappeared.
Dealer holdback allows dealers to advertise big sales. Often, ads promise that your new car will cost you just "$1 over/under invoice!" In addition the dealer stands to reap further benefits if there is some sort of dealer incentive or customer rebate on the car. Generally, sale prices stipulate that all rebates and incentives go to the dealer. Using the example above, let's see what happens when there is a rebate.
Suppose the car described above has a $1,000 rebate in effect. You need to subtract that $1,000 rebate (remember, the dealer is keeping the rebate) from the dealer invoice of $18,000, which results in a new dealer invoice of just $17,000. Now, you must calculate a fair price.. In this example, TMV (the market value) measures 3 percent of dealer invoice at $17,510, which means that the price you should try to buy the car for is $510 over invoice, plus destination, advertising, taxes, and fees. The dealer is still making as much as $1,110 and you're paying $2,490 less than the MSRP. Remember, the longer the car has been in the dealer's inventory, the less money the dealer is making.
Almost all dealerships consider holdback money sacred, and are almost always unwilling to share any of it with the consumer. Your best strategy is to avoid mentioning that you know the holdback amount and what it is during negotiations. Mention holdback only if the dealer gives you a hard time about not making any money when you know that isn't true.
So how can you benefit from the dealer holdback information? If the dealership doesn't have that special shade of blue you're interested in, and they can't find it at another dealership in the area, they have to order it directly from the manufacturer. If that's the case, make sure that they know that you know about the holdback. If a vehicle is special-ordered, holdback money is pure profit, and you will need to consider this when well into negotiations.
When calculating dealer holdback, use the following guidelines.
Following is a current list of makes and the amount of the 2010 dealer holdback.
Domestic manufacturers (Ford, General Motors and Chrysler) generally offer dealers a holdback equaling 3% of the total sticker price (MSRP) of the vehicle. Foreign manufacturers (Honda, Toyota, Volkswagen and others) provide varying holdback amounts that are equal to a percentage of total MSRP, base MSRP, total invoice or base invoice, as shown below.
Make - Holdback
Acura - 3% of the Base MSRP
Audi - No holdback
BMW - No holdback
Buick - 3% of the Total MSRP
Cadillac - 3% of the Total MSRP
Chevrolet - 3% of the Total MSRP
Chrysler - 3% of the Total MSRP
Dodge - 3% of the Total MSRP
Ford - 3% of the Total MSRP
GMC - 3% of the Total MSRP
Honda - 2% of the Base MSRP
HUMMER - 3% of the Total MSRP
Hyundai - 2% of the Total Invoice
Infiniti - 1% of the Base MSRP
Isuzu - 3% of the Total MSRP
Jaguar - No Holdback
Jeep - 3% of the Total MSRP
Kia - 3% of the Base Invoice
Land Rover - No Holdback
Lexus - 2% of the Base MSRP
Lincoln - 2% of the Total MSRP
Mazda - 2% of the Base MSRP
Mercedes-Benz - 3% of the Total MSRP
Mercury - 3% of the Total MSRP
MINI - No Holdback
Mitsubishi - 2% of the Base MSRP
Nissan - 2% of the Total Invoice
Pontiac - 3% of the Total MSRP
Porsche - No Holdback
Saab - 2.2% of the Base MSRP
Saturn - 3% of the Total MSRP
Scion - No Holdback
Subaru - 2% of the Total MSRP (Amount may differ in the Northeast)
Suzuki - 3% of the Base MSRP
Toyota - 2% of the Base MSRP (Amount may differ in Southern U.S.)
Volkswagen - 2% of the Base MSRP
Volvo - 1% of the Base MSRP
When calculating dealer holdback, use the following guidelines.
If the dealer holdback is calculated from the:
•Total MSRP: you must include the MSRP price of all options before figuring the dealer holdback.
•Base MSRP: you must figure the holdback before adding desired options.
•Total Invoice: you must include the invoice price of all options before figuring the holdback.
•Base Invoice: you must figure the holdback before adding desired options.
http://www.car-buying-101.com/glossary/holdback.html
Any of you who have similar quotes for this model - please answer as well.
I am looking to put in offer or ask for quote today for local dealers. I've done inventory searches online for the Twin Cities (Minneapolis) in MN (which is where I live). I can only find 2 in the color I want, but I'm willing to budge on color. Still, there are only about 20 or so of these models in my large metro area.
Thanks so much!
Do you have any thoughts on whether it's good time to purchase in Oct or end of December?
I had such a bad experience in August timeframe that I just wonder when to start looking again.
It still shows pretty high I guess, because I have read in this same forum for a XL-with Navi, it was quoted undre 26k, but the website (you suggested) shows 26752!
i am still confused between basic model and high end model though!
IN WV OR PA? I MIGHT BUY ONE SOON AND WOULD LIKE TO KNOW WHAT
OTHERS PAID SO I WILL KNOW WHAT TO OFFER. THANKS
No dealer add-ons; No sales Tax in OR
Price: $28678 which is ~$307 over invoice
+ 322 DMV & title
= 29K
Where did you purchase? TIA
I'm in Sac and looking to buy. But I also travel to Bay Area 1-2 times a month. maybe a group buy? My friend got a 2009 EXL 4WD w/Nav for $27k + TTL in Sac. x e t o w n - a t - h o t m a i l - d o t - c o m
And will Honda provide promotion for 2010 CR-V, such as low APR or incentives like it for 2009 model after Nov. 2, 2009?
price for 2010 ex fwd...... .....22900 and awd .....24058 with destination charge per edmunds.com so this price can be without destination charge which is more common with dealer as they donot give price with destination included so this price they are giving which is below invoice which is doubtful for 2010....
dealer told me that 2009 crv never had any special apr and i donot expect any special apr for crv as demand is there for crv and resell value....people buy it for
high apr....normal apr for score of 720 and up for honda dealer ....4.39 to 4.49 .....i hope this help....
best price for 2010....crv.... invoice with destination.......on edmunds.com
thanks for the info in this post, bought the family a new 09 crv EX-L for $24600 (includes destination), not including taxes, title and doc fees.
Was not a great buying experience, but got a fair price I hope
Next, I'd like to know where you got that quote. I'll buy today if it's anywhere close.
Should i wait till dec end to buy car which can help to get dicount from dealer ?
The next important aspect of car buying is to take care of your credit, especially in this day of the tightening of credit by the lending institutions. I don't know how many times that I have heard the "My cousin got 0% when he bought his" from someone who has terrible credit. All the tips about knowing where you stand, good or bad, on your credit situation are very valid and can save you more than a few hundred dollars that you negotiate on the price of a car. You cannot expect the dealer to pay the sometimes outrageous bank fees that are required and make NO profit on a vehicle.
The thing that I personally strive for is to make the car buying experience fun again and not the next best thing to going to the dentist. Some of the notes and comments in this forum are very counterproductive. "Bragging" about the deal that you got in your dreams help noone. Be realistic!!!
Thank you everybody who shared their experience and price quote.
It helped me to make an informed decision.
Cost of car : 23,900 + TTL (Detroit Area, MI) Hope i got a good deal (End of month transcation) ... any comments/suggestions
I agree with Fasttex, there is no point bragging or trying to beat dealer. Running around to save 200-300 $. We need them as much as they need us. they save us time and mental agony of finding the right car. They have expenses and family too. We understand Fasttex.
Some (Many) brought this bad name by their own actions :mad: . I dreaded going into dealership and meeting sales guys.:sick:
but in this dealership, ("Field of the South", if you know what i mean I had a pleasant experience in this purchase transcation. Good friendly internet salesman & F&I guy. thank you guys, if you are reading this.
I knew my final amount and went in with the right amount to pay.
while i was there, another gentleman was purchasing
2010 Honda CRV LX, 4WD for Cost 21,850 + TTL ( In case any one wanted to know. :confuse: )
you have demonstrated that you are a car seller and in a 'priest' way asked us (car buyers) to be gentle with you dealerships?
You mention that "Dealerships are at fault for gouging customers for years " that means you were a part of it till now, now the market has gone to dogs and no one is buying your cars, so you ask this saint like question
"but if we as customers try to use those same tactics, where is the gain?"
Have you ever done that to anyone in "those" days??? You guys ruthlessly stripped every customer that walked into your dealerships in the name of profits, now its time to pay back.
You cannot expect the dealer to pay the sometimes outrageous bank fees that are required and make NO profit on a vehicle.
Dont you remember asking your customers such 'outrageous" fees in the name of market adjustment or any other fancy terms?? Do you know how many people lost jobs and not able to make those 'outrageous' payments ???
I think buyers should utilize this life time opportunity to strip these dealers from their ever profitting business. I think if we take one car out of the dealer's lot, that itself is a big favor to him or else he has to pay the bank interest etc... after the hold-back (90 days) time.
Lastly, guys ... no discussion or comments in this forum is "counter-productive" dont believe this fasttex guy. He is a salesman not a buyer. If it is $200 or $20, why should be waste it to those blood sucking dealers????
I have been in the business for a very short time so I have never experienced the busines practices of the past but I have to deal with the repurcussions every day. It makes it very difficult to get ANY trust from potential buyers even though I NEVER gouged ANYONE. I abhor "Market Adjustments" or any other tactic to get more money from the customer but we live in a free market economy that has advantages and disadvantages for all of us. The Communist countries would fix prices on all vehicles but I doubt any American would wait for two years to get his Lada for a minute savings. The car business MUST change for it to survive and I would like to be a part of that change but there is no better way to change than what is happening here in these forums or other sites. There is no other business that has so much animosity and it cannot continue if the survival of the industry is important. I don't know what the solution is, but I do know that an atmosphere of name-calling and accusations benefits noone. Small town dealerships MUST survive or there will be none left to have a convenient place to service your car. I would guess you are from a larger city where the cutthroat competetion and practices have grown out of control in the last few years.
My point about bank fees is very consumer-oriented and should be addressed by both the consumers and the dealerships as NO dealer makes money when a lending institution charges up to $2000 to the CUSTOMER to do the loan.
You sound like "is wal-mart" good or bad for america" .... it is what it is ....whether we like it or not.
I apologize if I have hurt you, it was nothing personal.
read your post once again and see whos calling names !!! you are right ...my friend ... Some people NEVER learn! Let me see if you would go to a dealer, buy it at the sticker price and post your experience here !!!
anyways, lets end this right here .. I apologized to fasttex already (not that I said anything wrong ..) now i see what fasttex mean by "counter-productive" discussion.