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Mazda6 Maintenance and Repair



  • bob08857bob08857 Posts: 10
    Could it be the emergency brake not properly releasing? I've noticed a similar problem after I've washed my car and left it parked for a while. When I start to move I occasionally get a loud bang and scrapping from the rear brakes. This goes away within a matter of seconds, or as soon as I apply the brakes. I've always assumed it was rust buildup on the rotors, but maybe it's something else.
  • shankmshankm Posts: 10
    bob08857, This is exactly the same problem I'm encountering after washing my MZ6. The rear passenger side brake seems to be where the noise is coming from. It must be the parking brake seizing, but why does this problem not occur when it rains and the rotor is wet.

    Unless its the brake dust which when wet dries to rust overnight and makes makes contact with the rotor.

    Let me know if anyone has this problem diagnosed with a mazda dealer.
  • bbrs617bbrs617 Posts: 3
    Has anyone here turned off the radio and take sharp left turns and heard a single popping noise? Something that sounds like it is structural? I have this problem and my dealer is trying to figure out what is causing it. They have found as of today that there were some sub frame connections that were loose but the problem still exist only less now. When I took the car back home I hear another sound around the center of the car about where the stick shift is. I have the M6s with automatic. Anyway the new noise is coming from underneath the car and the original noise is still there but now does not make the noise as loud as it did. I have not seen anything posted here about this problem but have found other sites with discussions about this and are now up to 4 pages long. I am not quoting the number of people and I don't need anyone comparing the Mazda to the Honda...Please....I really don't think anyone should hold the Honda as a benchmark as I have seen here in the past. It really has its problems as well.
    I would like to hear from others that have the same problem as I do and if they have had it fixed.
  • glideslopesglideslopes Posts: 431
    Check all your front lug nuts.

  • metenuzerometenuzero Posts: 31
    I've been to my dealer (car dealer!) 3 times for problems in the past week as follows:

         Visit 1: Moderate brake/steering wheel pulsation, when applying brakes. Cause was warped rotors, they were machined under warranty.
         Visit 2: While servicing during visit 1, dealer had scratched shifter plate (plastic that surrounds shifter). Dealer denied having done it, but the car transport person admitted to having dropped the keys on the shifter plate while turning the car off. Piece was ordered, dealership paying for piece and waving labor.
         Visit 3: While driving on I-95, the front end of the right side still extension (from sports package) came loose. I dragged the piece for a thirty second before i could pull over on the shoulder. The piece was scratched beyond repair, so I ripped of the still attached rear end and left the piece on the grass beyond the highway's shoulder. (Sorry environmentalists but i couldn't fit it in the car, and i wasn't going to drag it to a dumpster.) Dealership requested the part, and I explained to them why I didn't have it, but they warned that all warranty issues like this required the part. Dealership tried to implicate me on the cause of the piece falling off, however they were unable to determine a cause. They replaced the part under warranty
  • arockwelarockwel Posts: 33
    metenuzero: What does the car look like *without* the side-sill ground effects, and how are those attached? Does it look good, worse or the same, in your opinion? I was thinking about taking those off as I just think they look tacked-on and a bit too "plastic-y" for the car...
  • avanteguyavanteguy Posts: 15
    with out the GFX pak. the 6 looks very plane , to some people plane is good, however i think it takes way from the look of the car . the way you see it on tv is the way you should buy it .man the mazda 6 look s sick with the gfx pack , yes you can take out the side sills just some tape and screws, that what hold s the sills on .
  • jampedrojampedro Posts: 38
    No, my non NA model doesn't have rear windshield wipers. I have the sedan and the hatchback isn't offered. No problem with your questions, love talking about my new car.

    I'm in Honduras about 20 ft. above sea level where it can be really hot and have no problem with front window sweating. A/C is on permanently. I have auto climate control and changing vent outlets is done electrically. Is your vent outlet controlled by cables or electrically? Either way, I'd bring it in under warranty since it must be a real pain.
  • metenuzerometenuzero Posts: 31
    The side stills are held in by bolts that are drilled into the side of the car. It looks extremely ugly with the side stills taken off if they came with the car. There are plastic bolts sticking out of the side, and if you take them out there will be holes in the side.
  • rmgpsurmgpsu Posts: 11
    metenuzero - My dealer scratched my radio faceplate during a recent service visit. They admitted to having caused the scratch, and replaced it under warranty (turned out to be a pretty expensive scratch - all stereo dials are actually attached to the faceplate). I would strongly encourage everyone to be VERY careful with the silver plastic in the interior; it seems to be losing the battle vs. sharp objects. Might not be a bad idea to inspect your car (with the service manager if possible) during visits to point out any scratches or lack thereof. Just a heads up.
  • 99miata99miata Posts: 14
    chefmazda: I just experienced the same front window fog problem two days ago (very pissed, too). Bought Mazda6i 5 spd (with all options) exactly one month ago and have 800 miles on it. Took first long trip (and first night drive) on Sat and experienced problem on way home. I live in MD - it wasn't too hot outside. Had AC on and blower on defog-only position. When I do the same in my '99 Miata (AC on w/temp on full cold), any fog instantly goes away. Haven't consulted manual or called dealer yet, but it was a significant problem on an 80-mile ride home from visiting relatives.
  • ian2ian2 Posts: 168
    Sometime I find when I have AC on, blowing at the windshield for too long, it actually starts fogging up on the outside due to humid air condensing against the cool windshield. I'm not if that's the problem you were having. If you have AC on at the non-circulating position, the fog on the inside should go away, unless it is so cold it turns into frost. *shudder*
  • chefmazdachefmazda Posts: 5
    Thanks for all your input. I plan on taking it to the dealer sometime over the next month and have it checked out. As I said, if the front forward vent is only on and you put you hand on top of the Dash you can feel cold A/C coming out at top in just one area, which is causing condensation. I will keep you updated once I have it serviced.
  • thlarockthlarock Posts: 2
    Hi Everyone,

    Just got my 6 three days ago and I love it. One problem though it has been raining here and when I use the wipers they are making a pretty loud noise on the windshield. Seems like they are rubbing pretty bad. Brought it back to dealer who replaced with blade refills but still making a loud noise and rubbing on the way back down. Not sure if this is normal for the car. Anyone notice that the wipers are louder then other cars. I want to go back to dealer again but i think he thinks I am nuts. Thinking may'be the whole balade is too tight - any comments or ideas would be appreciated.

  • mazdafunmazdafun Posts: 2,329
    It'll slick-up your windshield nicely.

    Have they tried just cleaning off your windshield? Sometimes dirt will cause the rubber to stutter over the glass (and some of the rubber does wear off onto the glass, which will cause the stutter too).
  • stretchsjestretchsje Posts: 700
    Heck, Rain-X practically takes the place of windsheild wipers.
  • glideslopesglideslopes Posts: 431
    Great product. Use it on my 6s and the DW's MPV during the spring, summer ,fall.

     Mark. : )
  • comet63comet63 Posts: 3
    I just traded my 1993 Corolla (which I have had since 1993)in on a 2003 MZ6. I love it except I am having that window fogging problem in the mornings. I live in Houston and it is humid here. If anyone gets any solution to this problem, please let me know. I got the onyx black Mazda i auto with beige leather, moonroof, bose stereo, spoiler, sport grill, comfort pkg, premium pkg, and chrome pkg. I don't understand about people having problems getting the car how the want it. I got just what I wanted. I didn't want the sports package as I am 40 and felt it looked to young, but like the sporty look with the spoiler, grill, and chrome. Any ideas on keeping a black car clean (aside from washing it every day) would be appreciated, also. Zoom-Zoom
  • jampedrojampedro Posts: 38
    Unlike other cars I've had, in defog position the A/C is always on and can't be turned off. Often using defog with slightly warm air will work fine, but I don't have that option in my Mazda 6.

    In damp or rainy conditions here in the tropics, the inside can fog up easily. But defog with A/C then causes outside condensation. To prevent that, I have to raise the temperature control, but then it's too warm in the car sometimes. I have to keep turning off the defog before outside condensation starts, then on again when inside fogging builds up. Or else, use the wipers to eliminate the condensation.
  • scottdudescottdude Posts: 177
    Is this fogging up problem common in all M6's? I've never owned a car that had this kind of problem. Is it a design flaw, and if so, what did Mazda do wrong?
  • seafseaf Posts: 339
    why you can't have the defog with A/C on, and have the heater selection midway or something to control the actual temperature inside the car? The temperature control should work as usual no matter defog/AC is on or not. All it does is control how much of the engine compartment's heat is channeled through to the cabin. The AC's compressor would pump moisture out of the cabin like usual. This is how most cars defog while not chilling the inside too much.

    Also, if turning on the A/C creates so much cold air on the windshiled that outside air condenses, then have you tried changing the vents to blow out the dash and under the dash (instead of above the dash).
  • ashutoshsmashutoshsm Posts: 1,007
    And coming from the land of the monsoons, I was always taught to defog with my AC on, heat turned to max and vents blowing rather hard - for the emergency initial defog when getting into a car that's been sitting in the heavy rain for a really long time. Then tone down on the heat to comfort levels. Essentially, the dehumidifying ability of the AC system increases at higher temperatures (the system becomes more efficient - I'm not implying the compressor does!)
  • jampedrojampedro Posts: 38
    I agree, heat with A/C is best for inside defogging and prevents outside condensation. But here in the tropics, it's then too warm in the car. Depending on the conditions, esp. how many breathers in the car, I sometimes find an acceptable temperature level to satisfy all three needs: inside defogging, no outside condensation and happy passengers. But most times, it's difficult to satisfy all 3.

    What I don't have as an option in my 6 is to have defog without A/C which sometimes is an adequate(and most economical) solution. Do all new cars force A/C when in defog mode? All my other cars had the option.
  • seafseaf Posts: 339
    I think I read in the honda forums that the AC comes on automatically with the defog button, but then you can turn off the AC by pressing the AC button. Also for honda cars, there's a trick where you hold some AC and defog buttons for a number of seconds while you start the car...Don't know the exact specifics. But it does sound like the mazda6 SHOULD have the option of turning off the AC while defogging.
  • comet63comet63 Posts: 3
    After reading all these replies, I realize my problem isn't just fog, it's outside condensation also. My A/C blows the air onto the windshield and causes the condensation. Even when I choose the floor only vent circulation, this happens. I can turn the defogger on high, temp in the middle of cold/hot and it goes away, but it comes back if I turn on A/C again (it's Houston and hot here-a/c is a must). I guess I am learning to ignore the problem somewhat. I wonder if Mazda is aware and will find a solution to it.
  • mazdafunmazdafun Posts: 2,329
    Even when directed towards the floor, a little is directed towards the windshield. If it's humid enough outside, condensation will form on the outside of the windshield. Happens to most cars I've driven in humid weather. I just flick the wiper every now and then.
  • metenuzerometenuzero Posts: 31
    After a horrific series of visits to my dealer service department, initially to fix warped rotors, I find at only 1000 miles later the brake pulsation that was attributed to the warped rotors is back. For what reason should a car initially at 4000 miles, and now again at 5000 miles have warped rotors? I live in Florida, so the terrain is flat, and I doubt that I brake more than the regular driver. My dealer said the first time was probably because the car sat on a lot in the florida sun for a month (which incidently wasn't true because I ordered the car from the factory), and I keep it in an air conditioned garage. Is this a sign of a problem with the brakes themselves? It is so frustrating because I love every aspect of the car, but every time I have to slow down or stop the steering wheel shakes obtrusively. I'm planning a 2000+ mile trip for the summer, and I am worried that the problem will reoccure. Can driving a car with warped rotors damage other aspects of the car? Thanks.
  • mazda6smazda6s Posts: 1,901
    If they only resurfaced the rotors and didn't replace them, the rotors could be bad (or they did a crappy job of resurfacing them). I'd ask for them to be replaced. This seems to be a common problem these days.

    No, warped rotors won't damage the car.
  • glideslopesglideslopes Posts: 431
    I would insist on a new set or rotors. The metal may be abnormally soft on yours, contributing to the continued warping. I have not seen brake issues mentioned here or on the other Mazda6 site. If the dealer gives you trouble call Mazda.

    I have almost 3,000 hard miles on my 6s with no warping.

    Mark. : )
  • mazda6smazda6s Posts: 1,901
    If the dealer doesn't want to replace them, I'd go higher at Mazda and rattle some cages. :)
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