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Mazda6 Maintenance and Repair



  • jason777jason777 Posts: 56
    Yes there is one about 150 miles away.

    Will ford service the car under warranty?

  • skyrayskyray Posts: 156
    Yikes, only one dealer in a 150-mile radius? I'm in Vermont and there are about 8 in that range.

    I don't think Ford will service it under warranty, but here in the USA, you can take the car to ANY Mazda dealer for warranty service. I don't know if it works that way in Canada.
  • stretchsjestretchsje Posts: 700
    I just did some highway driving this weekend. I filled up soon after my highway driving had begun and again after my return. Only 20 miles of nearly 300 were city driving, so my tank was over 90% highway.

    Now, I've reported here earlier that when I bought my car new, my speedometer would read 78mph at 3000rpm. It now reads 73mph at 3000rpm.

    Being quite anal about my car, I wanted to calculate my highway mileage. However, since I was traveling a known distance, I calculated it two ways.

    My odometer informed me that I had driven roughly 280 miles between fill-ups. I calculated the distance I had driven to be roughly 300 miles.

    Interestingly, I multiplied 78/73 (my difference in speedometer readings) times 280 (miles my odometer read), which results in 299- about what I calculated my actual distance to be.

    My conclusion? My speedometer did indeed fall out of wack.

    Now, should I get this fixed? This means I'll eclipse 100,000 miles, yet have an odometer reading 93,000 miles. It'll deceivingly help resale value.

    I got 10.3 gallons of gas. That means according to my odometer I got 27mpg and according to my physical calculations I got 29mpg. Either way, that's pretty poor for the 4cyl engine.

    However, 2/3 of that was with the defroster accidentally on, and hence the A/C compressor. Furthermore, since I had the cruise set for 77mph, I was actually going nearly 83mph. Since I occasionally sped up to 85mph, that means I was actually going over 90mph. Not good for mileage.

    That's a lot of statistics. Your thoughts?
  • stretchsjestretchsje Posts: 700
    Change in tire size, inflation, or tread wear could not account for the difference that the speedomter reads.

    My speedometer has changed in relation to my tachometer. In the same gear, it no long reads the same speed at a given RPM. It did this well before my new tires, but even so, this measurement has nothing to do with the tires since it is a measure of axle rotation (independent of tire size), not actual travel speed.

    Differently sized tires (or tread wear) would throw my speedometer off though, you're right, and I did just get new 17" tires. However these tires have not made any change from my 16" tires. With both, I still read 73mph at 3000rpm, whereas when the car was new I would read 78mph. This change happened well before I got the new tires.

    I used radar to confirm that 78mph at 3000rpm is a legit figure- it's accurate. Since my clutch is not slipping, either my tach or my speedo must no be reading correctly.

    What I didn't expect was that my calculations show that the difference the speedometer is reading matched up EXACTLY with the difference in distance I calculated that I had driven.

    78/73 * 280 = 299, whereas I estimated I actually travelled 300 miles on a tank, not 280.

    So, again, my speedo is out of wack. I probably was driving over 90mph, not knowing it. My mileage sucked as a result. At least, I hope that's why. No wonder I made good time!

    Anyway, I hope I get better than 29mpg in the future. And, if somehow I'm wrong about this and my speedo is correct (and my calculated distance wrong), then I got an even worse 27mpg.

    This is with the 4cyl engine and manual tranny. It's rated for 32mpg highway.

    I'm anal. When I first got the car, I was gentle on the engine during break-in. Consequently, I averaged over 30mpg in city traffic! I actually got 540 miles on one tank. After Mazda's recommended 600 mile break-in, I opened it up a few times and had some fun.

    I've since not been able to break 30mpg.

    Not that I should be getting over 30mpg in the kind of congested beltway traffic I drive in, but I had been, and I want to again.

    Since I figure I'm getting about 24mpg city and 29mpg highway, there's nothing wrong with my car. It's in line with what the EPA says it is, but my first few fill-ups showed it capable of much more.

    How does this relate to the speedometer being out of wack? I don't know how far I've driven! It's hard to be certain if my mileage is problematic!

    Consequently, I love to hear about what kind of mileage others are getting. Three things seemed to happen after break-in: my mileage dropped, but my low-end torque clearly went up, and my speedometer went out of whack. All at the same time, and yet none really constitutes a real "problem" per say, as the car still sounds and feels great.
  • mazda6smazda6s Posts: 1,901
    Keep in mind that if you do decide to get the speedo fixed, if they change out the unit, you could end up with what is called in the car biz a "branded title". This could greatly reduce the trade-in or resale value of the car. If a dealer changes out the speedo, they are required to put a label on the car stating that the actual mileage is unknown. Just a heads-up.
  • jason777jason777 Posts: 56
    Just got my car, very nice but it has a couple of rattles, one on the left rear door (speaker I think) and one near the right rear, although that could be a seat belt not sure yet, now I have to deal with my awful dealer, to try and sort it out.

  • alcjewalcjew Posts: 173
    Jason777: Sorry to hear you have rattles on your new 6, hope it's something minor and can easily be fixed. Keep us inform on what the rattles were.
  • mazdafunmazdafun Posts: 2,329
    Shockingly loose, but I think it's true. They usually try to err high though, so you're usually not going as fast as you think.
  • jason777jason777 Posts: 56
    I took it into the dealer, he was very helpful,
    he came with me for a drive and did here the rattle.

    He said that they would have to take the door apart and put it back together again to fix the rattle.

  • alcjewalcjew Posts: 173
    jason: Does it sound like something is rolling around inside the door? Or it could be an unrestrained speaker, pwr window or pwr door lock wire harness banging inside the door. Let us know what they find.
  • jason777jason777 Posts: 56
    I think it is the speaker, but the mechanic doesn't seem to think so, he think that the might not have put the door together properly.

    But it is otherwise an excellent, a work of art, I would say.

  • psuf4ipsuf4i Posts: 16
    I've been reading the posts here and at and haven't been able to find a solution to my check engine light problem on my 6S.

    I checked under the hood and the hose is still attached. I tried the gas cap, and it's tight. The only software problem I've heard of is for the 4 cylinder, not the 6 cylinder.

    Does anyone have any ideas? I'm taking it in to get looked at on Monday.
  • alcjewalcjew Posts: 173
    psuf4i: How miles do you have on your 6s? I also have a 6s w/MT with 2500 mi no problems (no rattles or no stuck sunglass holder door) with it so far. Could be a bad O2 sensor, a loose O2 connection or a disconnection. You can see the sensor (inserted in the exhaust manifold) with a light if you down in front of the motor behind the radiator/cooling fan. Otherwise, let us know what the service found.
  • stretchsjestretchsje Posts: 700
    My CEL went on last night. Drove to a restuarant fine, CEL came on when I started it to drive home. Car runs great- even with four adults, everyone had fun with the spirited drive there. Dunno what the problem could be.

    I guess this is finally an excuse to get that rattle fixed. Still haven't taken it to a dealer, and I noticed the rattle the day I got the car. It's been almost four months!
  • seafseaf Posts: 339
    Modern cars use the check engine light for a lot of symptoms. Usually the most common cause is some sort of emissions problem. If you had bad gasoline, or some hiccup in the emissions system a flag will be raised and the light comes on and stay on every time you drive unless it is inspected and reset at a shop. You can try to disconnect the battery terminal for about 30 seconds to reset the flag yourself and see if it comes back on again, if it does then it's worth checking out, otherwise if it doesn't come back on, it might just be a minor one-time occurence. But I'd still say have the dealer look at it since it's such a new car, and if nothing else, document it so Mazda USA has it on record if it leads to future problems.
  • stretchsjestretchsje Posts: 700
    mine just came on. It's going in on Monday.

    Also, I timed a four mile stretch of highway at 70mph. I completed it in 3:26. That averages to 69.9mph- my speedo is correct.

    Therefore, my tachometer must be wrong, and my mileage sucks. Scroll up for why.
  • jason777jason777 Posts: 56
    I have rattles in both rear doors, it is very annoying.

    The dealer said he needs to wait for pins to come in before fixing it.

    Can I remove the panels myself or am I going to make it worse?

  • alcjewalcjew Posts: 173
    jason777: Annoying as it may be, just let the dealer fix the rattles, since it's under warranty. You don't want to mess up something else that they might know that you tried to fix the rattles yourself.
  • psuf4ipsuf4i Posts: 16
    This first time the CEL came on, the car had 170 miles. Then it went off right around 200. It came back on around 300 and went off shortly after. The car has about 450 miles on it so far. It's getting looked at right now. I'll let everyone know what I find out. I'm not too concerned, the performance of the car wasn't affected, probably jst a bad sensor.
  • stretchsjestretchsje Posts: 700
    Took it in. Got my sunglasses rattle fixed (finally) while I was at it.

    Turns out my gas cap was loose. OK, before you laugh, I had even double checked this! OK, no, really, don't laugh!!! I turn it until one click, which to me signifies that it is properly torqued.

    Nope, it was explained to me that the cap must be tightened to two clicks of the cap or the vapors will leak and the CEL will come on every time.

  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    ok, it happened. My 6i light came on. The PCM is getting reprogrammed today for an error in the door un-locking logic. While it's their, it's getting fresh oil too.

    But in the meantime, I'm driving an '02 626 v-6: what a POS!
  • psuf4ipsuf4i Posts: 16
    They told me they got an error code related to the Variable valve timing. They called the Mazda techline, and we told that updated diagnostic software was being rolled out to dealerships and they'd have to wait until that came to figure out what was really wrong and how to fix it.
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    This is starting to sound a little too Fordy to me. No wonder Ford wants to make this car the next Taurus.

    Me, I'm waiting for the Mazda3.

    (And don't take me for an uninformed Mazda basher -- I'm the previous owner of two 1992 Proteges and a 1994 B2300, and right now there's a 2000 Protege ES and a 2002 Protege5 in my driveway.)

    But this Mazda6 is starting to sound like my B2300, which was a rebadged Ford Ranger and literally spent at least one day a month in the shop for the whole, excruciating five years I owned it. (I still have the inch-thick pile of service receipts to prove it.) Thank God the Proteges are still all-Japanese under the hood!


    P.S. OK Maltb, fire away!
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
  • mazda6smazda6s Posts: 1,901
    First-year problems are common. The most interesting one I have heard about was a Lexus problem with the fuel gauges reading too high and causing people to run out of gas. I guess if you can have a problem like that with a Lexus (probably the most reliable brand on the planet) you can have one with any car.
  • alcjewalcjew Posts: 173
    mdaffron: Before you classify the M6 (M = Magnificent) "too Fordy" you need to know the facts on the M6. These problems are considered minor isolated fixable annoyances (have you checked the Honda board). I'm approaching 3K mi on my M6S and there are no rattles or any of the other minor annoyances (CEL) that some are experiencing. And I'm sure a majority of other M6 owners are trouble free. The M6 is all Mazda Japan influenced, designed and engineered by the M6's Platform GM, Seita Kanai. One example of Mazda Japan ingenuity inherited in the M6 (not Ford!), that before production of the M6 at the Auto Alliance International (AAI) at Flat Rock, the AAI engineers measured the torque of every fastener on a Japanese-built M6 proto. These torque measurements became the benchmark for all of the fasteners during production. The V6 is a Mazda Japan enhanced Duratec Cosworth. Have you test driven a M6? If you have, what was your impression?
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    But I don't see them running all over the place like I hoped they would.

    And I understand first-year woes, I really do. And I hope Mazda works them out. I was sold on purchasing a 6 for my next car in a couple of years, but the appearance of the 3 has me taking a hard look at them as more information appears.

    I'm just yankin' y'alls' chains really. I like the car. Tell me -- is there a fix already for this CEL problem? Or is Mazda "taking whacks" at it?


    P.S. Maltb: Yep, whatever! :D
    P.P.S. Alcjew: "M" = "Motorcraft."
  • mrblonde49mrblonde49 Posts: 626
    I was sold on purchasing a 6 for my next car in a couple of years, but the appearance of the 3 has me taking a hard look at them as more information appears.<<

    Where have you seen the 3? I did a search on it and all I found was one useless shot ( It's not even listed as a future vehicle here on Edmunds, which is kinda strange since it's coming out in 2004 (at least that's what I thought I read somewhere) Just wanted to see it, if there are indeed pics of it
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    visiting the Edmunds sedans discussion "Mazda3" and scrolling through the latest 30 posts or so, which contain a lot of links to reviews and pics.

    This Protege replacement, currently called the MX Sportif in Japan, has the front-end looks of the 6 (which apparently Mazda is trying to make the brand-standard for their vehicles) and takes some rear styling cues from the new RX-8 (or so they say; I have a hard time visualizing it). It's a lot sharper and more European looking than the current car.

    Here's the link right to the "horse's mouth," so to speak (the pics are of the 5-door version, but if you look through the Mazda3 discussion you'll find some links to the sedan views too):

  • mrblonde49mrblonde49 Posts: 626
    Thanks. I didn't see the 3 listed under Mazda when I used the pulldown menu to look at the message boards. Got it now.
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