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BMW 3-Series 2006
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Comments
Get the color you want--it's your car and it should be what you really like. I told my sales rep I want the Titaium Silver with the Dakota leather. He looked at me as though I were from another planet though he didn't say much (and, I assume, he wants to sell me a car eventually since he sold me the last BMW). But, in my way of thinking (apart from the convincing get what you like/want theory) too many of us compromise when buying a new car regardless of name plate or cost. Why should that be? If you can get what you want (and in this case it's no added cost to you, i.e. exterior and interior colors), why wouldn't you? I can understand if you're struggling with adding a sports package or larger wheels, etc. if they are items that take you too far over your financial capacities. But, all things being equal, get what you want. What do you care what a sales rep or a mother-in-law cares about your personal tastes (okay--I get the mother-in law thing, but that doesn't make it right!!)?
I think your sales rep was way off base to think that white with black is a crazy color combination. It's a classic. I had that combo on my '66 Mustang convertible.
Bottom line - the new 3 is a sharp looking car in any color combination. The original poster should order whatever color combination HE likes best, regardless of popularity.
Is there much to choose from in RF snows? What are our options? My car is a 330i with 17 inch all-seasons (i.e., no Sport Package). Would the Dunlop Winter Sport M3 be a good choice? Last I checked several weeks ago, TireRack was selling this tire in the $150 range for the 225/45HR17 size.
Can we use the rims that came with the car and just change the tires on a seasonal basis? For cost reasons, I'd rather not have to buy a set of dedicated rims for my snow tires.
Do BMW dealers give you a loaner car when you bring the car in just to change the tires? Is the answer different if you buy the tires from say TireRack instead of the dealer? I am assuming (but do not know for a fact) that we could save a substantial amount of money by buying our snows from TireRack instead of BMW dealers.
How much do BMW dealers charge for changing tires, or is this included as part of the free maintanance?
Will BMW dealers store your off-season tires for you? If so, how much do they charge for that?
Changing to winter tires is not included in the maintenance plan. The other questions are questions to ask your dealer. IMO, the dealer will be glad to rip you off on the tires, compared to Tire Rack's price. I doubt if they will store your off-season tires for you. I have heard of independent mechanics who do this for a small fee, however.
Yes, you can use your factory rims, however, if you do the math, you'll find that it is much cheaper to just buy a set of winter wheels to go along with your winter tires. Why? Well, by all accounts, most tire stores around the U.S. charge anywhere from $20 to $30 per tire for a mount and balance, meaning that you are spending a minimum of $160 per year on mounting and balancing. Given that TireRack.com currently has a set of "Sport Edition F6 Silver Painted 17x7.5" wheels for a total of $352 for the set of four; your buy-back period is just over two years from a straight cost perspective.
Having made that point, my take is that the buy-back happens much faster. Why? In my book "Time is Money” and the time to swap a set of wheels is WAY less than the time it takes to swap a set of tires on a set of rims AND then balance them. In my case, I can swap the full set of wheels in my driveway in less than 45 minutes, and then I'm on my way. On the other hand, how much time does it take to schedule an appointment for a tire change, drive to the shop, wait around while tires are being changed (1-2 hours?), and then drive back to your starting point? I'm thinking that in the best possible scenario you're still talking three hours of lost time to have someone else unmount and remount just your rubber.
If all of that isn't enough to convince you to buy a set of wheels, here is one final argument. I turned in my leased 2002 530i SP last spring, leaving me with a set of winter wheels and tires that saw three winters and accrued about 12,000 miles during that period. I paid just over $1,000 for the set in December of 2002 and I'm about to put them up for sale on E-Bay where the prevailing price seems to be just north of $500 for this type of equipment. Not too shabby. ;-)
Best Regards,
Shipo
I appreciate the risks you pointed out (possible damage to tires or rims) as being associated with numerous unmounts and remounts on the same rims. Makes me inclined to go the route of having dedicated winter wheels. However, since I'm leasing my car, the long-run for me is only 3 years max.
Is there a loss of warranty issue when you change over to winter wheels/tires?
Will you have your wheels/tires changed by a BMW dealer, an independent shop, or will you do it yourself? I believe that the new tires have to be initialized in order for the tire pressure sensor to detect a loss of pressure. Whether that's simple or difficult, I don't know.
DL
Unfortunately this is an increasing trend, especially in German luxury manufacturers.
If only this were Great Britain and I could have a 330i Sport Touring with no sunroof or, I believe, all wheel drive.
Thanks for listening, and I'll go back to the Subaru and GX forums, only to return when BMWUSA has an epiphany-"tall folks want Bimmers too".
I didn't realize that a good set of winter wheels could be had so inexpensively (less than $100 per wheel).
The whole winter package comes to $980 before shipping. That's for four 225/45HR17 Dunlop Winter Sport M3 run flat tires (@ $157 per tire) mounted and balanced on four 17x7.5 Sport Edition F6 Silver Painted wheels (@ $88 per wheel).
True ... but that doesn't really explain why they can't properly dispense with the repairs the need to make. The one car has been in no fewer than 4 times now since we picked it up in August (three times for the same problem with the Sat radio). The service people are obviously not testing the results of their work.
Hmmm, have you actually gotten inside the car???
I seriously doubt that BMW lists the headroom sans sunroof. Why? When I got my E46 1999 328i (a car that had the sunroof optional) it was listed as having 38.4" of front seat headroom. By 2005 the 330i was equipped from the factory with the sunroof and the measurement for the E46 330i was accordingly reduced to 37.0". Now that the new E90 is out it is rated at 37.4" with the sunroof, a measurement that places it between the two versions of the E46 (with and without sunroof).
Having said all of that, I've found that not all measurements of this sort are created equal. For instance, I've been in a few cars that list front seat leg room at 42" that I couldn't fit, and I'm only 5' 8". On the other hand, I've been in cars that are listed as only having 41" of front seat legroom that I've actually had to move the seat forward so that I could reach the pedals.
Best Regards,
Shipo
It's absolutely unacceptable. I don't know how you've been so patient!!!
The program suggested applying a kind of gel/lubricant. Of course, I can't recall what the product was they were suggesting to use. Does anyone have any ideas what might work?
I've a brand-new car and so I've the opportunity now to keep the seals in good shape for years to come, if I can figure out what to use!
Really? Where did you hear that? The RunFlats have been one of my biggest issues with opting for an E90 (that and the lack of a dip-stick). While it is looking like my next car will be an A3 (long story), I fully intend on getting back into a 3-Series after that, and that would most likely still be the E90 in about 2008 or 2009. I consider it to be wonderful news if the E90 could be had with five complete wheels and tires (even if one is a high pressure donut).
Best Regards,
Shipo
Why is your next car going to be the A3 (not that there's anything wrong with that)?
Yes, I have sat and test drove the 330i-with the seat completely lowered.My local dealer also confirmed for me that it is not now possible to get a 3 series in the US w/o an obligatory sunroof. I usually need about 38" of headroom, though as you correctly state Shipo, that is by no means a rule. For instance, on my current Subaru OBXT, they list the headroom as 38.9", yet my head was fully into the headliner before I had an inch of seat foam removed.
Question: Would you actually feel comfortable heading out on a 500 mile (round trip) business trip with a tight schedule if you only had RunFlats and no spare? I sure wouldn't. Buying an E90 right now would mean that I'd have to keep my 1998 Grand Caravan for road trips. Don't get me wrong, the GC is a great vehicle if you're toting along lots of family/friends/business associates/stuff, however, for a solo single day trip from New Hampshire to New York (a trip that I do with a fair amount of frequency), I'd much rather have a sporty BMWesque type of car.
As for the A3 Prior to July of this year, other than my frequent trips to NYC, my average daily mileage was well south of ten miles, meaning that my annual mileage was more like 12,000 miles. Now however, I'm doing double duty with an almost daily 100 drive to one client in addition to the trips to my other client in Long Island. I'm now racking up the miles at the rate of about 30,000 per year, and that is WAY too many miles for leasing, something that my business has used for my cars since the mid to late 1980s when the depreciation laws on cars changed. With my new driving profile I'm going to be constrained to buy my next car and what with my company's self imposed monthly limit on vehicle expenses, I need to buy something that can be had for around $30,000 out the door. So far at least, the A3 looks to be my leading candidate (which is lacking any 1-Series competition from BMW). Fortunately it looks like this current situation is something of an anomaly and that my driving profile should return to normal in a couple of years at the outside. If and when that happens it will be, "Bye bye FWD Audi, hello RWD BMW!" ;-)
Best Regards,
Shipo
For me, the scenerio of the 500 mi. trip would be BMW Roadside Assistance.
- How much time do you suppose it would take for the RAP (Roadside Assistance Program) car to make it to any given point on a highway where one might get a flat? Hours in some cases?
- Once the RAP car reaches you, how long would it take for them to fix the flat using whatever method the employ?
- What about roads such as the New York Thruway and most (if not all Parkways) that don't allow private/unlicensed roadside assistance vehicles to service cars?
I'm still thinking that the waters are sufficiently muddy that the simple and time honored tradition of carrying your own spare, jack and wrench is still the best (and maybe only) answer.
Best Regards,
Shipo
I will either have an independent shop change the wheels or do it myself. Doing it myself would necessitate the purchase of a jack, torque wrench, and wheel chocks, and would probably also mean getting out in the cold to do it. OTOH, getting someone else to do it involves loading the wheels up in the car and probably wasting time driving there and waiting around.
I bet that the tire pressure situation with a dealer, indie, or yourself will be the same--you will have to reset the system via the on-board computer after the tires are installed. It's simple, and should be described in your manual.
I've been patient only because (1) I have a neighbor who is a technician at the service center and I specially requested that he work on my car, the second time, and (2) they put me in a new broken-in 330i as a loaner car.
The first time I brought my car in for service to troubleshoot the malfunctioning adapative headlights, I inquired about some of the missing elements you pointed out in a previous post (which I aslo read about in the owners' manual). As for the missing first aid kit, they said that the U.S. cars don't get them. As for the alarm not working (the clown's nose doesn't blink upon locking the car), they said the 330i doesn't come with an alarm, not even with premium package, etc. They said that the alarm is a dealer add-on. They must be trying to go the extra mile for you since they agreed to give you those things.
By the way, I gassed up again tonight. Super Tuesday at the Exxon station - 5 cents off on premium. Half a tank. 25.28mpg mixed driving. The OBC was indicating 25.0.
That's true. BMW's don't come with alarms (frankly don't need them).
They said that the alarm is a dealer add-on.
It is.
Then what is the functionality of the thing affixed to the bottom of the rearview mirror? I referred to it in my previous post as a clown's nose. Is it there just in case the customer would ask the dealer to add an alarm? The owners' manual has a section about an alarm (even though the car doesn't come with an alarm). It says that you activate the alarm by locking the car with the remote, and that you know that it is working because the clown's nose will blink. My clown's nose does not blink. So I thought I had a malfunctioning alarm. Now that I have come to realize that the car does not actually have an alarm, I am wondering what the clown nose is there for and why the owners' manual has a section about the alarm.
I guess the dealership is trying to go the extra mile, but these little freebies -- the first aid kit, the emergency road-side kit, etc. -- don't really make up for the massive inconvenience.
BTW - now MY adaptive headlamps are not working!
As per my previous posts, it took them a long time to figure out how to fix my malfunctioning adaptive headlights. In case it may be helpful, let me recap. The first time they did a same day reset. They thought it was fixed, but I don't know how. The malfunction indicators came on during the ride home from the service center. The second time they had the car for a whole week. Here's what they wrote in the work description part of my receipt:
QUOTE
Customer states adaptive healight inop. Warning on in dash for headlights. See history. Customer requests Javier to work on vehicle.
Customer states headlights seem out of line, right one has a longer line than left side.
Adapative cornering headlights inop (AHL), FC; LDM-62D6 DSC interface, DSC-5E30 DSC Sensor, lateral acceleration, plausibility, update software C/D 19, SIB 34 06 05.
Interrogate fault memory, found FC; LDM-62D6, DSC-5E30. Perform test plan to modules, found faulty YAW Sensor, replace sensor, performed FRM module test, all fuses and power supply to control unit OK, check all ride level sensors power supply and readings OK, check all ride level sensors power supply and readings OK. Reprogram the car with update software C/D19 as per SIB 34 06 05, clear fault memory and check operation, lights still don't work and cannot calibrate sterring angle sensor, submit a PUMA Case #4976692 to BMW. After reprogram car and interrogage fault memory, no faults were found, reprogram car again and clear fault memory, check operation, still not working the headlights on left side and steering andle sensor cannot be recalibrated, using other GT1 with new software version 43.0, interrogate fault memory, performed steering angle sensor, it worked this time, check as per PUMA case reply interrogate faults, no faults, performed battery reset and recalibrate steering angle sensor, activate headlights through the FRM control module, right front headllight operation OK. Left front adapative inop, control unit does not respond. Headlight switch green light flashes, no faults were found. Remove front bumper and left front headlight, check for wire damage and water damage, headlight OK, no damage found, open headlight and check all connections, found disconnect wire harness to AHL motor causing light inop, reinstall all above and check all lights operation, performed lights reset module, road test and check operation, OK.
UNQUOTE
It sounds as though the problem was ultimately as simple as a disconnected wire inside the headlight. Before realizing that, they replaced a sensor, updated software, and struggled with recalibration. Of course it won't work if a wire is disconnected. Wouldn't you think they'd check the most basic things sooner rather than later?
They work on a hourly rate, right -- whether you or BMW Corp. is paying!
Good luck getting your alarm installed.
I will look into it. Thanks.
With gas prices rising the way they are, this is going to be an adjustment for me since i've always used the cheapest gas i can find.
Warped thinking, I know. When I get a loaner car, it is not as well-equipped as my car and the color combinations are not my favorite. Also, I have to set the radio stations (no sat), adjust the seat, mirrors, etc. Last weekend I went to a golf outing. People said they liked my new car. It hurt a bit to tell them it was a loaner and that my new car is the shop undergoing repairs.
(BTW, there is an opportunity to buy additional miles during the lease @ 16 cents per mile, which is cheaper than the 20 cents per mile penalty. I was told that I can exercise this option any time during the 18 month period in the middle of my 3 year lease. When you notify BMWFS, they will adjust your remaining payments accordingly to spread out the additional cost of the purchased miles.)
Yet another coincidence. My wife is also the screamer/complainer in my family. I try the nice guy approach. When that doesn't get results, I turn it over to my wife.
Yes.
Can i alternate? What about the middle octane gas?
Yes and you engine will run less efficiently and you're get worse gas mileage.
With gas prices rising the way they are, this is going to be an adjustment for me since i've always used the cheapest gas i can find.
Why?
3.00 a gallon 87 octane = $48 fill up.
3.20 a gallon 91 octane = 51.20 a fill up.
Gee, you save a whopping 3.20 a fill up. That's the cost of one drink. You bought a 40k car and you're too cheap to spend the lousy extra $3 on a fill up?!
You know what you savings is by cheaping out on the gas? 6-7%. You're willing to sacrifice the car's performance and mileage to save 6-7%? Back when gas was 1 a gallon, you had a saving argument. With gas at $3.00, the savings are so small that you're pretty hardpressed to come up with a logical argument.
Best Regards,
Shipo
They have engine/ignition immobilizers, however, which is far superior, IMO. Because of the microchip in the key, the car won't start unless that chip is there in the ignition. Like someone else said, the only way to steal it is to tow it away... but what good is your alarm at that point if they are going to that extreme?
Honestly, a beeping/honking alarm is a waste nowadays. How often do you hear an alarm going off in a parking lot and you completely ignore it? How often do you say to yourself, "Geez, will that person please shut that thing off?" Well, when your alarm is going off, everyone else is saying the exact same thing. Those alarms were smart about 20 years ago... now they are just pointless and a waste of money.
I can think of a single exception to that basic truth. My insurance company cut me a break on my insurance with my non-Alarmed 1999 328i, and even a larger break on my alarmed (from the factory) 2002 530i. IIRC, the break on my insurance was enough to buy the alarm (assuming that it had been an extra cost item, which it wasn't) in about three years. So, if you're going to keep your car for a while, the alarm might make financial sense.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Not saying your lying, but it doesn't seem like most companies do stuff like that....
Second, the price difference between what I currently use and premium is significantly higher than the numbers you posted, but even so, it would not justify the loss of performance.
Obviously a severe loss of performance and mileage wouldn't justify a minimal cash savings, and no it's not a matter of being 'cheap'. It was more a question of whether it was really necessary or just the dealer reciting the company line.
As someone else previously said, you'll get lower performance and worse gas mileage using 87 or 89 octane, so there is really no point. You'll spend less money at each fill-up, but you'll need to fill-up more frequently, and you're car won't have as much power.
It was more a question of whether it was really necessary or just the dealer reciting the company line.
Dealers aren't just repeating what their manufacturer told them. They speak the truth. If you think about it, why would they tell you that you need to use more expensive gas in their car if you didn't need to? This would be a pretty bad selling technique!