By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our
Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our
Visitor Agreement.
Comments
Your brilliance is underwhelming but entertaining. It reminds me of that what's-his-face "kid" on the grade school playground who opens his mouth so he can hear himself speak without offering a shred of value to any of the other kids.
Your input lacks depth and merit but quickly and strongly dismisses other people's findings as baseless and ignorant. Your issue may be related to poor fuel, and that was initially discouraging on your part when you experienced the shudder, yes? But the shudder I've discovered most likely is not related to fuel. It started while fueled with the factory fill (B5) within 20 miles of the dealership and was even more pronounced after a refueling. But I already wrote this, so if you had focused on comprehending those posts, you'd be in sweet realization by now. Having driven 100k miles with a VW TDI, having reworked that engine and injection system and having experienced the gamut of behaviors with that system, I'm fairly certain this is a tranny problem. I could be wrong, as I have been many times in the past, but hopefully I'm not so that if a remedy is found for my vehicle, I can pass it along to others here.
If you care to spar, I could continue, but I doubt anyone else wants to experience all that happy horse hockey. My sincere apologies everyone--I should be nicer. Anyway, I recall that answering or chiding that "kid" on the playground was partly a waste of time for me, but mainly for him and made everyone run for higher ground.
Jones
I'm about to initiate the lemon law. This started on the first drive from the dealer/ first time I hit 1800 rpms. During first 5 weeks of ownership it was in the shop for almost 3 wks related to this. And now it appears to be getting worse to the point where at times it seems it's going to kill from missing so bad.
The husband and I have lots of ideas on this one, but we shouldn't have to invest the time and $ to resolve it. I agree we need to get STAR moving to permanently resolve this. How do we do that?
As for the break squeal, this too the ***** said is something I'll have to live with. But I live where it's so dang dry that it's hard to believe it's moisture from sitting overnight - so I'll try cleaning the rotors so as I get the chance.
I know some of us jeep owners don't have this. Maybe there was a bad batch? Mine is a 2/06 build.
Well - back to my vacation. I'll check again soon on what's new.
Michelle
WAY Ouch! I'll keep your circumstance in mind if I ever decide to pummel DCX. My brother and I have solid experience excising due value from manufacturers who do not deliver on their contracts. I'm really hoping I won't be required to do that here. It takes SO much energy and a solid emotional base for an individual to initiate a CAL or take it to the public level. Things are easier with the Internet, but it's never worth it for those few pioneers in the end. I recall spending enough quality time on rebuttals and presentations to pay for 10 of the high-dollar items in question at the time.
Jones
What is your CRD's mileage crd4me2?
Jones
Thanks.
Please don't. You both got one jab in - and that IS the end of it.
tidester, host
-The large folding panel just below the steering column
-The two sides (openings) of the dashboard
The panel was stuffed with rubber foam between the omega shaped structural metal piece and the inside of the panel itself, the side openings I press closed using the doors.
This made the cabin noise more comfortable.
I am not trying to put you down by any means, I am just trying to educate you and anyone else less experienced with diesel engines and drive trains. This shudder/stutter that many have experienced, seems to be unique to our vehicles and is by no means acceptable or to expected no matter what some service manager/writer states. DC needs to step up or someone will take it to them for a class action suit! :mad:
This morning when i was coming up to speed sure enough up to 2000 RPM so I just got on the accelerator and speed up and saw it go into the next gear and i slowed back to 60 and what do you know 1600 RPM. What kind of crap is that. I have to go 70mpg in order to get into O/D at 60. This is the exact opposite problem that I usually have with AT. My other AT wanted to be in a gear that was too high.
Anyone else have a simialar problem. I have been getting 25 mpg riding around in 4th gear. I might have 30mpg if I could get my car to change gears without having to go pass someone. Why did they not just give us a Manual option. IT is clear that the AT is the great weakness of this vehicle
I used Simple Green in the place of ethers in the printed circuit board business because it was cheaper AND it did not leave behind significant particulate matter prior to the nickel/copper electrolysis. It removed the fingerprints and machining oils from the chassis parts for electronic equipment just prior to the primer/polyurethane coat, which is surely more sensitive to residues than brake rotors. So, yes, I've been using it since 95 with great results. It just so happens that most manual car wash joints use it in their tire degreaser solution, as well.
I don't know if this applies to our tranny's, but on my Dodge truck the tranny has a "learning" mode. It stores info on how you drive and adjusts shift points to accomodate your driving style. May be that this exists in this tranny also, I have never asked. I do note that until my unit gets to a certain temp (warmed up) that it will not go into OD. Ask a "knowledgable tech" at the dealer about this. It could be something serious also. Good luck.
If I am failing to add value to this forum, I shall bow out. Please advise.
Jones
All who post civil message, are respectful of others members and stay on topic are welcome.
tidester, host
Don't go away.
I am an industrial engineer (Tennessee PE), and I enjoy your insightful comments. Your posts have been a breath of fresh air for me.
For the record: fuel economy on my CRD has been in the low twenties. We did achieve 26.5 mpg driving from the Smokies to Nashville, but the tank following dropped to about 20.5 immediately after that. I have been adding 3 oz of Amsoil's Diesel Modifier and 3 oz of Amsoil's Cetane Boost to each fillup of about 15 gallons. The engine has about 14,500 miles on the odometer. My current fuel economy is now between 20.5 and 21.5 mpg.
Any ideas about removing the water and other stains from the cloth seats?
link title
I've used "BlueMagic Carpet Stain and Spot remover" since I got my driver's license in 1995. It has a tendency to remove color of materials that have oxidized due to UV/age, but will get nearly any oil-based stain from woven polymer. It doesn't lift/soften gum. From its smell, it has a bit of ammonia with a detergent for lubrication. It doesn't require much scrubbing. Just shake the can, spray and let sit for 10 to 15 seconds on the spot. Then rub lightly and daub/press. Stuff comes right up.
Note that the label suggests testing it on a hidden spot first--probably for liabilities sake on their part. I've never had it remove color from velour, carpet, or any type of pile in any newer vehicle--only removal of dye from leather...woops. I use it in the house most often, but used it first on my Dodge Spirit to remove a dog hiney stain/smell from behind the center console.
You should be able to find it in the auto wax, armorall, cleaner section of Wal-Mart or at any Autozone or NAPA.
Jones
Farout
Two things come to my mind, have you changed tire sizes? Has the dealer done any re flash on your ECU? Is so the dealer needs to re calerbrate your speedometer. I put on 245 70 16 T tires and had the speedometer re calerbrated, cost $30. a lot less than a ticket. However the speedometer was only 3% off, which is not that much, unless radar is being used by a really fussy Trooper.
I get consistently 22 mpg and the very best has been 24.3 . I do not think that the transmission is the great weakness. I think it gets down to poor dealer prep, by not doing the re flashes before the CRD is sold. I have 12,300 na have has no problems of any kind so far. My CRD is a June 14 05 build date. I don't do anything but drive it and check fluid levels. I won't use cetane boosters, and I use 0-40 in the winter and 5-40 in the summer.
Farout
Anyway, I have not changed the size on the tires nor have I had the dealer do any work on ECU. I am alittle scared to take it to the dealer for work on the transmission because so many of us are haveing the shudder problem. I don't want them to mess up my perfectly nice ride. Just fix my shifting problem. I think that i will instruct them not to reflash the tranny unless it is completely necessary.
I talked to a Tech at my (*****)today and he thinks that my cruise control and OD problems are one in the same. He said it sounds like i have a bad speed sensor. Hopfully they can replace it and it will work fine. Thanks for the help all. I really enjoy the forum
Wonder has anyone had the problem of a horrible loud grating noise occasionally on starting the vehicle? This has happened a number of times -- I just try again, not apparently doing anything different, and it starts right up.
Then today (mysteriously the day following a dealer oil change) it started up but seemed to be running poorly, lacking power and shifting with extreme clunkiness. I figured I'd try to make it to the dealer, but when tried to accelerate after stopping @ an intersection could only crawl off the road.
I let it sit for awhile, made sure there was oil in it, then it started right up and ran fine.
Anybody got any notions what's going on? :confuse:
When I am driving my 5 speed stick and accelerating to highway speed I normally shift into 5th at around 60 mph. When traffic slows me down I will normally drop down to 4th around 45 or 50 mph. By comparison, my Dakota shifts into overdrive (unless hard acceleration) at 40 mph and it shifts out of overdrive at 40 mph (again, unless it's a forced downshift). So, the CRD acts more like I actually drive a stick than my AT Dakota does.
There must be something about the design of 4th gear in the CRD that requires it to be a transitional gear rather than one we can really work. If you look at the gear ratios, the reality is that the CRD has 2 overdrives, since 3rd is 1:1. Yet, under hard acceleration it will use 4th gear fine on the way to 5th, it just won't hold torque at the lower speeds - where the CRD torque is very high.
If the hills are not too steep it runs fine at 55 in 4th. Mine shifts into 5th at 58 mph and will run down below 50 before shifting back into 4th. I really don't care which gear it's in between 50 and 55 mph as the fuel economy seems to be about the same. I wish that 4th gear were a little less wimpy but I don't think it's a "problem."
That's my take. If I have misunderstood your post, I apologize.
Unclebubba, we are in complete agreement on this one. Sometimes I have trouble finding errors in my own programs but I can easily see errors in code written by others. Maybe DC needs some outside help on this one. I can't believe they have been unable to isolate the cause of the problem. All this reflashing that doesn't work is nonsense.
The post about measuring the fuel pressure on a dyno was a good one. Should probably collect the data stream on the control voltage to the injectors too.
Farout
TIA
I would order the Cargo Organized without a doubt. This gives you so much more usable space without folding the seat down. We use ours all the time. Skid plates are so very inexpensive when getting them on from the factory. If you order the Sport consider the EVIC the overhead information is really well worth having. Splash guards are a must if you want you side paint to keep clean. Do NOT accept the GoodYear ST tires! They are not worthy of being on an old YUGO! We have the Moon roof and my wife loves it!
Other than that have fun with the CRD.
Farout
farout
Questions:
Did you have or spray any type of stain sealant on the fabric prior to noticing that water stains the fabric?
What result have you had with perusing it as a warranty issue with the dealer?
I had the dealer seal the seats @ the time of purchase and am currently exploring a solution with them.
Thx...hope to here from you.
1) fuel quality is important. You should seek out "premium diesel" even if it costs more. My CRD is quite happy on the premium diesel sold at Meijer gas stations. Other brands, like Mobil or BP-Amoco, should also work fine. Old diesel or low-grade diesel will have the engine running rough, noisy, and smoking.
2) expect the mileage and smoothness to go up and noise to go down as it gets broken in. My CRD seemed much happier with highway miles than local miles, so I would suggest using it on the freeway as much as practical.
3) the shudder is annoying. Make sure the latest TSB has been performed, although that doesn't guarantee a cure.
4) I strongly recommend having the first oil change performed very early. Right now at 700 miles would be reasonable, as would anything up to about 3000. I had my first oil change at 2400 and immediately noticed a positive change in smoothness and noise.
Enjoy!
We bought a loaded Limited CRD with moonroof, overhead display and GPS navigation system (one reason she likes it so much - ever heard somone argue with the voice directions??? Hilarious!!)
As for problems - the only thing in 12,000 miles worth mentioning is that the tranny "hunts" slightly when going into lockup at around 58-60mph. Apart from that - no complaints.
My advice for any diesel owner is to give the thing a darn good thrashing every now and then - don't be afraid to rev it out or make it work hard. Diesels are self limiting on revs - as you probably know - they run out of steam at higher revs. Don't forget to let it idle for a few minutes after running at high loads or at speed. Helps the turbo to cool down. This advice is in the manual too!
I'm from England originally and have had small diesels for many years prior to coming to the USA. They're only getting better and better. Unfortunately, it seems that in the USA, the legacy of the crappy diesel cars from the 1970's is proving to be hard to put to bed. Almost 50% of car/truck/SUV sales in Europe are diesels - even luxury models from Mercedes, BMW, et al.
Sorry the post is so long - I'll try to keep it shorter next time.
Farout