Jeep Liberty Diesel

farout

Farmer52: I thought I would just add a little information I came across last week. ULSD must be available everywhere by Oct. 15 2006, which I hope it will help as much as it appears it should be. Surely this change will have a step in procedure from town to town, they just can't start all all at once. So maybe we might get it sooner than Oct. 15th. We now have almost 16,700 miles on our Green Hornet (our CRD) Last tank was real respectable considering we did a lot of idling wit air-conditioning on while wife and daughter shopped, drove to church (100 miles round trip) and lots of stop and go. We went 505 miles on 25 gallons. I added 5 gallons when we were in a high priced diesel area, until we got closer to home. So I consider that very good, and I was comfortable while sitting listening to the radio enjoying the cool air, when it was 96 F and 80% humidity...ug.
I did switch to Shell Rotella 5-40w, and like it better already, the engine quiets in less than 10 seconds and is smoother at idle. I went just under 7500 miles this time before changing the oil. The first oil change I did was at 9,300 miles which I felt was a little to long. I think the Mobil 1 0-40w is not quite as good as Rotella. Rotella is rated higher with a C41J or something like that, which is the latest for CRD's. And DCX will have something similar when The GC comes out I am sure.
I think I recall you had some problems right off the bat when you got your CRD, or am I mistaken. If it was you
Ken how is everything now?
Diesel here is $2.899 to $2.979 all within seeing distance of each other, gas is $2.839 to $2.959. This does not add up to me at all. I just hope this crisis in the East cools down or it maybe like in 1973 and 4 when oil stopped from certian Eastern countries we so depended on. In California we cold buy only 10 gallons at a station every other day. Which met we had to go to several stations to fill up. Gas back then was $1.25 or better where we lived. I bought a Honda 90 Trail Bike and almost got killed on the thing. Some people just do not belong on a motorcycle.... like me. I will never do that again....I hope.

Farout

stever

Does anyone know who is the largest Jeep dealer?

Dave Smith Motors up in Kellogg Idaho is supposedly the worlds largest Dodge-Chrysler-Jeep dealer, if you can believe their website.

Steve, Host

mike6206

The only place that I found ULSD is at the Pacific Pride fleet fueling station that one would need the plastic punchcard from the local fuel distributor to buy it. I do have a card and used it in my CRD with no problems, but when I got the bill, it was 3.09/gal compared to 2.92/gal for the regular diesel at BP.

jimhemi

Here in NJ, we have been able to use the low sulfer diesels for about two months now. I have always filled up at a local truck stop where they move gallons of the stuff by the day. The pump is never marked with a cetane rating. Considering that NJ has two major refineries that fill the needs of most of the North East I knew it came from one of the two places so brand loyalty really didn't matter to me. I have seen the tanker trucks( Mystic Transportation and Island are just a few of the tankers that are contracted in this area) filling at most of the major pumping stations.
This Friday, I filled up at one the NJ Turnpike rest areas. The Sunoco Branded Diesel, is also low sulfer. The Cetane sticker designated that the rating was 42! Is that it? Is 2 cetane points the best that this new low sulfer fuel has managed to produce? Thinking about it logically, most of the fuel we are getting in this country will only come from a few refineries, regardless of the brand you trust. Unless we are able to find some places that blend petro with bio, straight petro diesel will be 42 on the cetane rating.

winter2

Here in MD, the sticker on the pump says "Minimum Cetane Rating" and then gives the number. You may want to look at the sticker more closely next time you fill. I have been getting S15 for the past few fillups but the pumps still have the "Minimum Cetane Rating 40" stickers on them.

ULSD (S15) should have a cetane of 47 or better.

05crdjeep

I live in Minnesota and noticed a change in what my CRD emits about a month to 6 weeks ago. It smells much less and under heavy acceleration, I no longer get "the brown cloud". Since we've had B2 biodiesel mandated since way last year, the amount of diesel clatter I get is somewhat less than the fuel I get in other states.

On a cross country trip, we got fuel that reminded me of when I first bought the CRD. Clatter and smoke and a heavier diesel smell.

Now that we're back, the clatter is diminished, it's hard to make it smoke and the exhaust has much less odor.

So I can vouch for the ULSD in MN. The pumps are not marked in any way yet except as Low Sulfur Diesel. But I susect come October, they'll have new stickers with ULSD on them.

I haven't noticed a drop in mileage. I get around 23 in mixed city driving and around 28-29.5 on highway without the AC running.

I have around 25,500 miles on mine. Had one EGR failure very early on and a reflash. Otherwise I have never owned a vehicle with fewer problems.

My dealership experience has been fantastic.

farout

ssssteve Host: They don't list their inventory, so you HAVE to call them to get the imformation that other dealers have on line. Thanks I appreciate the info

Farout

stever

They have a quote form you can fill out and then they'll call you. Tis a bit irritating, but other dealers hate them so maybe they are doing something right.

I've never done business with them or know anyone up there, so usual disclaimers, but he's a local Boise State grad who made good and pretty much became that northern Idaho city's biggest employer after many of the mines closed. (I say city, but Kellogg has about 2200 people).

Steve, Host

new2diesel

I hate to burst the ULSD bubble but i have been using BP ULSD for the last month and have noticed no difference in performance, sound or smoke. Actually is seems as if it smokes more than the regular stuff - not sure why. The best results I have found is to add the cetane booster - that does eem to make a small difference.

new2diesel

I have notticed that my 05 CRD with 20,000 miles on it has started to vibrate sporatically mostly when decelerating in 1st or second gear. It almost feels like I am driving over small rumble strips for about 1-2 seconds. This has only happened 5 times but seems to be more frequent. Has anyone had this happen and does it likely mean my transmission is failing. What would you recommend I do - drive it until she blows or get it in and have them tell me they can't reproduce it? Also, if it dumps me in tim-buck-too what is DCX's responsibility. I heave trips ever weekend that take me out of town with the car.
:sick: Thanks

geedubb

So far I've been happy with my CRD with one exception, the tranny shudder which has seemingly vanished since the weather warmed up. Unfortunately, on a recent trip to SW Colorado, when climbing a long steady grade the engine temperature climbed to nearly the H. No lights came on or buzzers sounded but I've not had a vehicle do this before. I did have the CRD fitted with a roof rack and pod, bike rack hanging off the back with 3 bikes, 2 adults, 2 kids, 2 cats, and of course...2 dogs but I've done this with my Outback and not had overheating problems.

Can this be an EGR related problem? I kept the rpm's at 2000, turned off the air but the temp kept climbing.

I tried searching this forum but didn't find the answers.

Gary

farmer52

Farout: The only problem was with the SIRIUS radio authorization. DCX sent SIRIUS the wrong ESN for the satellite receiver. DCX wanted me to bring it back to the dealer to have the ESN corrected/reprogrammed. I contacted a VP at SIRIUS and the problem was resolved PDQ. I am still waiting (3 months) for my service manager to call me with an explanation of the problem.

I am having brake "squeal" after it sits overnight or during the day. It started to occur in June and does it almost everyday until I drive for a few miles. I think I read somewhere that there is a "fix" for this problem. I am debating whether to take it back to my dealer or find another dealer.

Otherwise I am happy with my CRD and keep saying a prayer that I will have no major problems (6900+ miles and counting).

nescosmo

New2diesel.... I had a ford van that during the warranty every time it shift down it felt that you were going over a metal bridge or so just like yours; they fixed the tranny and and that was it. Take it in as soon as possible to fix it.

nescosmo

New2diesel..... It sound that you start to develop EGR Problems, take to the dealer and tell them that you have black smoke, they will replace your EGR.

nescosmo

Geedubb...In your tranny I read that if the dealer flush the cooler the shudder should go and for your over heating maybe you need your computer re flash.

zachinmi

I was in Colorado just a few weeks ago and climbed all sorts of grades at various speeds with the engine temp never going past its normal position sticking straight up. We had two adults and luggage in the vehicle - no kids, cats or dogs. Any idea if you were still within the payload? I would guess you probably were. I think you have a problem of some sort.

siberia

Gary,

My temperature gauge is goofy, but doesn't read high. Using a scan tool, the temperature gauge reads 100 F at the bottom mark and 140 F at the 1/4 mark. Between the small mark just before the middle and the middle it reads 163 to 195 F - all jammed in to one graduation (goofy).

The answer to your question, Can this be an EGR related problem?, is a weak maybe. When normal driving in overdrive under load there is relatively low EGR flow (178 F). Under light load in third gear at 2500 rpm there is high EGR flow (195 F). I ran a series of long 10% grades at GVW around 10,000 lbs on the floor barely holding 48 mph with no rise in temp on the gauge (outside temp 98 F). If your EGR valve is stuck open you should have an engine light.

I remember some posts with fan clutch failure and others with wild reading temp gauges that were cured by reflashing the computer like Nescosmo said. There may have even been a bad thermostat, not sure.

There is an electric 2-speed fan and an engine driven fan. If your engine really was hot both fans should have been full on.

farout

farmer52: Yes mine did/does the same. I just do not put the hand brake on on our level drive. When I don't use the hand brake it's good, when I put it on and it is real humid or rains brakes make the noise. Now explain that? I am glad you got the radio working ok. What's your mpg on the open highway? Best is yet to come as soon as this ULSD gets we all will be getting 27 in town and 35 on the highway!

Farout

farout

geedubb: Hey do you have a trailer tow package? If not you may need a heavy duter cooling system.

Farout

caribou1

Gary,
There is a simple way to check your mechanical fan clutch:

- when cold you should be able to spin the fan on itself not more than 5 turns. If more this means it's broken loose, if it cannot spin freely there is excessive drag in the unit.

- when warm there should be a significant drag, but not a locked situation.

I don't have the electrical fan on mine and it never overheated. Driving at 2000 rpm with a light foot in mountain roads is the best way to stay away from trouble with this type of engine but this puts you in a condition when the egr can open because there is very little load. Perhaps this can become a boundary condition for the egr.

Unfortunately we don't have a regular thermostat and the temperature gauge reading depends on software. To my opinion this is a major safety element and should be made more reliable!

siberia

Unfortunately we don't have a regular thermostat

Hi Caribou1, I forgot about the clutch driven, thermostatically controlled, water pump or what ever it is. I am not familiar with that at all other than what I have read on this forum.

On another question, do you have a manual that tells what the required oil pressure is in the 2.5 VM engine? (probably the same as the 2.8)

Thanks

nescosmo

New2diesel.... If is under warranty they have to give you a loaner is in the deal so pressure them or call the jeep rep good l.

smokinclatter

The fact that they will not give you a loaner may be beneficial to you in the long run. In some states if the dealer gives you a loaner, it relieves them from the Lemmon Laws.
Chrysler sucks on buy backs. Mine has been in the shop for a total of 9 weeks out of the 9 months that I have owned it. The last time it was in I asked for a buy back. There is a 9 month rule they use. Mine at the time was in the 9 month period. A buy back was in the works. Then the dealership called to tell me they fixed it after 6 weeks and the buy back went away.
I'm like you...I like the " idea " of this vehicle.....but anyone that defends this kind of service is either on their first new car and thinks this is normal or their ego just won't let them admit......MISTAKE.

nescosmo

The Jeep is to new to have clutch problems and the fan only run when the a/c is on; If he put the a/c when is over heating it probably would it come down in temp. I think it is software relate it...

caribou1

I had to have my fan clutch changed after 3 months of ownership. It had too much play in the bearings and the propeller was wobbling. The noise level from the engine never made it obvious for my lasy dealer to really look into it. I had to wait 25,000 miles to finally prove by the vibrations that the clutch was dective. ***** service?

caribou1

l searched for "oil pump" and "oil pressure" in the diesel powertrain manual. The only info I can retreive from the manual is:
- 1000 ohms
- 1 volt
- 10 ohms ....
This litterature is not intended for normal people. Pounds per square inches or Bars you will only get from VM.
I read that our oil pump had a bypass valve operating at 4.5 Bars (roughly 70 lbs). This should not be far from reality.
10 ohms.

tired_old_dave

Round 2 year 2 of heat issue - probably not. siberia, you are probably correct. This gauge cluster reflash, that I didn't want but got, prevents the driver from worrying. Leaving the a/c switch on, I think turns on the electric fan to speed one. True heat condition, like in the garage on a hot summer day, kicks on the higher speed of the electric fan. For the garage, I turn off the a/c close to home and when in the garage, turn the temperature dial to heat to dump the heater core into the block and that shuts down the high speed switch soon. Then cool down until the required time and the electric fan is also always off.

Last year there was a fan issue - those bad parts should be all gone by now. While turning off the a/c close to home is counter to the statement that it kicks in the low speed of the electric fan, it lets the condensing coil cool down so that air flow is used for radiator cooling.

winter2

Need some more info.

What is the MY of your CRD? If it is a 2005 and an early build, you may need a software update. Also, some CRDs came with a bad clutch fan assembly and that may need to be evaluated.

new2diesel

Nescomo - where are you getting your information. I spoke with DCX and two different dealers so far and they all say the same thing. You are SOL unless DCX wants to be nice and pay for a rental soley for customer satisfaction (good will as the customer sercive guy said). If you know that this is in print somewhere I would love to show it to them and get them to provide me with a car. Otherwise, it is $30 per day at enterprise!

To make matters worse - 2 hours later when the tow truck arrived he asked if the vehicle could be moved. I said no but would try. I put it in gear and no response. He got in it, put it in reverse then forward and drove the dang thing up on the truck. This is just 2 hours after the transmission locked up and about threw my head into the steering wheel. Maybe I should claim whiplash and get DCX to pay for my med bills - hmmm? What could be going on with this thing?

I looking on edmunds right now to price the trade in aor retail of this thing. I plan on having another vehicle by next week and this one will be gone. I have always bought Japanese and knew I should have bought this thing! Anyone want a really good deal? I'm serious.

zachinmi

New2diesel, I definitely sympathize with your problem and won't defend DCX or the dealer that was unpleasant. Just FYI though, Japanese is no guarantee. The only lemon I've owned was a brand new Honda Accord, and my dad has had troubles with a Honda CRV and a Toyota Tundra, both purchased new; in comparison he's had two Saabs, one Volvo, and one VW with no problems on the Swedish cars (some significant but not disabling problems on the VW). So I wish you best of luck but I don't think there is any brand that guarantees you won't have problems.

Personally, I really think manufacturers should be required to provide a 5 year / 75,000 mile bumper to bumper warranty and a free loaner for any warranty repairs that whole period. But I don't see this happening!

mdamick

If you have an earlier build it will do that. Mine is 02/05 and I put a thermometer on the thermostat housing. At 2 marks before hot it is 215F. Unless you hear the chime and it is on H I wouldn't worry about it. You could go for a re-program, I have not bothered now that I know what the actual temps are.
We have been having 95+ temps and it is easy to get it to climb to 3/4+ with the A/C going and pulling hills. Mine also has to be around 3/4 before the fan clutch will grab, you can hear it if you turn down the fan and radio.

new2diesel

This may be an inappropriate question for a Jeep board, but I am planning on getting a different vehicle asap. I have always had 4 wheel drives but don't have to have one. Having said that - there are many cars that get 30 - 40 + mpg including the new hybrids. What is the best fuel efficient vehicle for the money? All opinions are welcome.
Thanks :confuse:

winter2

Just want to add a bit of input here. This morning Toyota was in the news once again and it was not good. There is now another recall for over 400K cars with a significant engine problem. These include the Echo and MY 2001 Prius, and some others I am unable to recall. In the news item, they spoke of the steering problem recall too and stated that Toyota had tried to bury the recall in Japan and elsewhere but because of a death or two related to this issue in Japan, Toyota was forced to go public. Further, it was stated that although Toyota had gotten several J.D. Power awards for quality, there is now a question if Toyota can maintain this level of quality while increasing their output of cars.

The idea of a 5yr/75K bumper to bumper is a great idea. Unfortunately your analysis is correct.

tired_old_dave

Did you buy with $7k-8k off of sticker? If you did good. Why did you buy this in the first place. Diesel/truck tranny/4x4. Didn't some of us. Looking at your posts, it sounds like your anti-shudder/throttle plate bought it or is stuck from goo. Did you take your cac to intake hose off and look inside. 18k miles of 0w40 really gummed mine up until I cleaned it with simple green and two old t-shirts. We should all get a new tc (better if dcx steps up to the plate)before we all need a tranny and cac/trannycooler. I tried to buy the new tc and front pump etc(the kit) but service/parts is really busy today and very hot-may go aftermarket. We may try to hold out for year end deals on a new general. I was told hyundai service can be less than dcx-can't verify or deny it. I guess I could've said keep the jeep(for now).

nescosmo

New2diesel.... So Sorry fix it and sell it, it is not for you to have all this problems. If you want a car and a very good engine buy a chevy HHR LT; it is a gas turbo and with a world engine is good you will love it. Any other from chevy is made in china....good lock.

justmecw

I fill my tank up today for the first time with ULSD and was able to put 20.16 gallons in it and the fuel light was not even on.

How can this be?

I thought liberty diesels had a 20.5 gallon tank.

I have noticed in the past that it never seems to get full. I have been able to put 2 more gallons in it after the pump had shut off and the only reason i stopped is I got tired of trying to see how much i could put in it.

stb

Many stations have pumps that are out of sync and under fuel. You pay for 20 gallons and get 18. I usually fill my tank in all my cars and trucks and have found discrepancies from time to time, usually small amounts when close to empty. I like you questioned pump amount greater than tank capacity. Attendants can't do anything but collect money, call the State phone number on the pump and give them the info and they will check pump and fine owner. You will not get money back but owner will get big fine.

zachinmi

I had a Honda Civic Hybrid immediately before my CRD, and it was a great car that got an honest 40-45mpg. I only traded it because I wanted something bigger and taller. I'll mention that the Civic had an annoying but harmless dash rattle which never went away - so far my CRD is rattle-free. And of course I already mentioned that my Honda Accord, which was my new car before the Civic, had numerous problems including a complete transmission failure.

farout

justmecw: You are overfilling the tank and filling the neck of the tank when you put everything in you can. I have put in 23 before, but if you park ina hot spot just after filling it like I described it, the diesel will expand and leak out the overflow. I let the diesel pump until the first automatic shutoff and then put more until it clicks off one more time.

Our diesel pumps here say its low sulfer, but not the ULSD, so it's a little trick the dealers are using here.

Farout

olegrizz

Has anyone put a tow package on the CRD. I had one put on and on the Jeep wed site mentioned there was a power steering cooler, oil cooler, wiring harness and the receiver. When they put it on they said that the CRD only needed the wiring harness and the receiver. Did I get short changed or does the CRD normally come new with the coolers?

farout

olegrizz: AS I have only seen one other CRD which happened to have a trailer tow package like mine, I am not sure. Call the Jeep customer line at 1-800-992-1997, they can tell you for sure.

Farout

geedubb

"Any idea if you were still within the payload? I would guess you probably were. I think you have a problem of some sort."

I was within the payload limit. I've driven the same route five times w/o a problem until this past trip though I didn't have the roof rack and pod on. I'm thinking one of the fans wasn't working.

Gary

geedubb

geedubb: Hey do you have a trailer tow package? If not you may need a heavy duter cooling system.

Farout

Yes I have the tow package. Since my Liberty was an April, '05 build I think I may have some of the problems others have pointed out. The mechanical fan seems to spin rather freely so may be the problem.
Darn thing started getting hot again yesterday while driving in town......time to take it in for service.

Thanks to everybody that answered this post.

Gary

farmer52

farout: I do not use the parking brake. It is worse when damp or rains. Best highway mileage was 29.5 mpg. M-F I drive 60 miles one way to the office. The AM drive is 60-65 mph except for about 5 miles (depends on the signal lights). Coming home I usually get into moderate traffic, some stop-go, and slow for construction. Most of the time I get 28.5 mpg (corrected for odometer error = 5%). My EVIC usually shows 29-30 mpg. I hope you are right about the mileage with ULSD. Planning to switch from Rotella T 15w-40 mineral to Rotella T 5w-40 synthetic at 10K miles and curious if my mileage improves.

7100+ problem free miles and keeping my fingers and toes crossed.

farmer52

Diesel fuel tends to foam and all Diesel fuel has an anti-foam additive. So it depends on how fast the pump dispenses the fuel. I put my pump (always use the same pump) on the first click and then wash the windows. After it shuts off and when I am done washing the windows, I "pee" the fuel in until I see it is full. The time between "pump shutoff" and when I get done washing the windows lets the foam dissipate.

siberia

This may be an inappropriate question for a Jeep board, but I am planning on getting a different vehicle asap.

New2diesel, I think you have earned the right to answer that question here, but the subjectivity of vehicle selection leaves me without an answer.

Don't turn your loss into someone else's gain. Make sure you clearly understand what went wrong and evaluate whether or not the repairs are a permanent fix. If the fix is permanent you are good to go. If not, by all means, dump the vehicle.

I fully expected the CRD to quit on me a couple of times over the next 300k miles because of the fuel system, not because of transmission failure. Please let us know whassup.

Good luck

beerw1

I have a 2005 CRD. The door panel says it was built in July of 2005. When you accelerate fast it hesitates 1 to 2 seconds before it takes hold. The Jeep dealer in Rockwall, Tx. says it's the nature of the vehicle. I contacted Jeep.com by email and I get a reply to check with my dealer. I told them in the email that I had checked with my dealer already. I guess they didn't read it. I really do like the vehicle but the service or no service sucks. If anyone knows if this is normal let me know.

keywestcrd

Beerw1,

This type of hesitation is normal and is indicative of all turbocharged engines to one degree or another. It is referred to as "turbo lag" and you will get used to it being there. It represents the time period between when the engine's rpms start building and the point at which exhaust flow starts to impart energy to the turbochargers turbine blades (i.e. when the afterburner kicks in). The turbo must "spool up," not unlike a jet engine, before it starts cramming the air into the intake side of the engine. Like most people who operate a turbocharged engine, you will adjust the way you apply throttle to utilize/compensate for this characteristic of the engine. At first it is a nuisance but then you will learn to enjoy the burst of power that is delivered.

new2diesel

Update on the tranny issue and DCX's response. Boy have I been educated about american car companies, dealerships, and their "customer service approach". What a joke! So the dead CRD gets towed 40 miles to the closest dealer who is willing to work on it within the same week - yes you heard that right. This dealer said they can get to it in 3-4 days. Meanwhile I am without transportation - totally stuck. As I mentioned before DCX said no temp vehicle since I didn't buy the extended warranty for $1000. Keep in mind, this extended warranty only covers the powertrain for 7/100 but this 05 already has 7/70 on the powertrain. The only other thing that is covered is rental vehicle for a max of 5 days. For $1400 you can get more deluxe coverage for 7/70 that includes more than the powertrain but still limits the rental to 5 days. I placed a call to the dealer I bought the vehicle from which is 2 hours away and the owners son said sorry there is nothing I can do. I said you mean there is nothing you will do - he said that is correct. I explained customer service 101 to him and that I the customer was caught in the middle without transportation. He said hey it is probably just a hose that has popped off and they will have you running in a day. (Yeah Right) I told him, if this is all the customer service they give to loyal Jeep owners that buy from them that I will never do business with them again. His reply was "well if that is the case then I guess there is nothing left to talk about". I was floored! Next I called the repairing facility. After pleading my case to the service supervisor and the business manager I got nowhere. I then got the word from the repair facilty that the mechanic looked at the Jeep and said there was nothing wrong with it that he could find. He drove it around the block and it worked fine so come get it. Then he said if it does it again I can bring it back. Keep in mind this thing locked up at 20 mph and came to a screeching halt almost putting me into the steering wheel. The car behind me almost rearended me and you could smell tranny fluid everywhere. This vehicle would not move - it was dead! It would only go in neutral and roll down the hill backwards. It was towed in on a flat bed. So by now I was really flipping out. I got a ride (40 miles) to the dealership and met with the service manger who was a really nice guy. He was the first reasonable person I had spoken with in this whole episode. I put him in the vehicle and drove down the street. The transmission proceed to malfunction 7 times in 20 minutes - almost every time it downshifted from 2nd to first. It never locked up completely though. It sure did rumble and vibrate. He clearly agreed "houston we have a problem". He kept the CRD, called the regional CSR and "splained" the situation. She (the CSR) agreed to a rental car for a few days and the dealership also agreed to a few days. The service manager said first thing today he would drop the pan and see if there was metal in the pan - if so he would push for a completely new transmission, but wasn't sure DCX would agree. Finally for the first time I had someone who understands customer service. This guy deserves a metal and a huge bonus. I will write the owner of the dealership and sing his praises when we are finished. So I got the rental car and drove straight to Toyota, Mazda, Subaru,Hydai, Nissan, and Honda. I think in the next 48 hours or as soon as the CRX is ready I will trade it in on an new Hyundai 07 Sante FE. Very Very sweet vehicle with the same mileage rating as the CRD. It tows 3500 pounds has 4 wheel drive and is one solid sexy vehicle for the money. Best of all it comes with 7/100 on the drive train 5/70 on the vehicle and 5 years of roadside assitance INCLUDING rental and hotel reimbursement. JD powers just listed them 3rd in overall quality behind lexus and Porsch. Bye Bye american junk - hello customer service.

Sorry for the long post but there are many people out there thinking of buying a CRD and have the right to understand what they are getting into potentially. Prior to this I was very pro CRD. Over and out!

zachinmi

Mine came with the factory towing package and I believe the window sticker listed all the coolers in your list. I suspect those are harder and $$ to install at the dealer so you may not have those. I would check carefully whether your tow rating is the same 5000lbs as it is with a factory towing package.