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Comments
I had the Trans rebuilt at 18000 when it died and also the F37.
They replaced the TC, pump and upgraded the transmission cooler.
With the cooler temps the TC is slipping-shuddering at 52 mph and going up a long hill.
It has done this since the first TC replacement, I am not sure why.
I think that when you keep the rpm above 2000 the pump is putting out enough to keep the TC locked properly so no shudder.
If the trans fails again I am thinking of taking nescosmos idea and using the suncoast TC along with the other upgrades to get this trans to take the torque of the diesel.
I sometimes clamp the filter on the corner of a worktable to reach all around it.
Priming is simple when the fuel return line is disconnected. Just pump the fuel through the filter and collect the first cubic inch of fuel expelled from the return line fitting. Once you have the continuous fuel circuit you simply reconnect the return line. This way you don't spill fuel all over the firewall and you don't take any risk of air reaching into the circuit
http://128.230.243.180/jeep/
I'm using winterized B5 ULSD nowadays. My fuel consumption increased by almost 30% (was 10.5L, is now 13.5!). I wish I could have jet fuel instead.
Concerning trees, if you build a wooden house here you won't be able to have the builder's liability insurance for the first 10 years :sick:
you only put diesel treatment at the tank and is only ounces to make the diesel fuel stronger, with lubricity and cetane (ontanage in gas name).
The best way to replace your filter is like Caribou said; Take the fuel lines off then take the hole assembly out, make sure you take the plugs out and the bottom plug too.
Take off the filter like an oil filter put lubricant to the gaskets(grease is better) and put it back. Prime it with the pump and blow the air out (by loosing the small fitting on the side of the assemble) then close it and prime again until you have only fuel coming out without air; And that is it.
Once a month prime the filter and blow some air out that is collected with use, this is very important for the CRD to run smooth.
Nescosmo....
wwwsg.daimlerchrysler.com/sd7dev/gms/templates/gms_press_rele...
I'm trying to get a response from chrysler on this warranty issue .No results yet.
emp2
The TC will lock up in 3 (OD off), 4 and 5
The only time I can get a shudder is 4 from 50-57.
I am wondering if the problem is the programming is doing a full lockup in 3 & 5 but is modulating the TC lockup solenoid in 4. I am not sure how to fix this.
Has anybody else seen this?
I really do like this CRD. I just hate the dealers service departments. Use dieselKlean injector cleaner about every 30K. If the injectors don't spray correctly it will affect your performance and mileage. I noticed when the engine seems to have a slight miss when cold, that this is when I use the injector cleaner in the next tank of fuel. It normally clears up after the first 50 miles on the treated tank of fuel.
Well good luck.
This actually started when they changed the TC the first time when it failed and they also did a re-program, I am thinking it was the F37 before it was officially released.
They did the full F37-pump, TC etc and the only thing I have noticed is that I get a metal squeak when the temp is below 20F and the RPM's are in a specific range.
I pretty much ignore it.
I've had my day in court and Chrysler has been ordered to buy back my CRD less usage, I received the letter Thursday and returned the vehicle yesterday. This has been a long painful road to get to this point. I'm totally stunned how the Chrysler Lawyer swore to tell the truth and proceeded to lie thru his teeth. They know there is big problems with this vehicle and that's why they declined to bring the two dealers who worked on my particular CRD as witnesses for their case, they know there is a big problem which can't be fixed. It is an engineering issue. It is my belief that the turbo and emission side of this are stretched to the max to meet regulations in 05/06. VW couldn't do and they are the leaders in this area, I have an 05 TDI passat which was the last year for 2.0 liter, because of emissions. I test drove another CRD to base line mine provided by the dealer, it did the same thing but much more quieter as I know what to look for and how to do it, I did not subject it to the test drive which I performed for the Lawyer and Arbitrator which I did for mine. If the lawyer/Chrysler is stating that this is normal for this engine and they spent $15,000.00 to repair mine, what about the rest of the CRD's? If you drive on flat land, you will not know this condition exists. Try drive up a steep hill at 60kph hold the the go peddle at 2200-2500 rpm and see if it makes a grinding/rattling metal to metal sound. I wont be surprised if you do, it's heard and felt and goes immedialty away if you pull back or accelerate past 2500 rpm, its most noticeable in 3rd gear. It's not the transmission as that was changed along with two torque converters. I live in the mountains and mine got to the point it was violent. I'm very happy of the outcome but also disappointed with the manufacturer and how they handled all this.
It doesn't matter whether it is winter or summer, If you don't start it in 3 - 5 days, the battery will go dead. The dealer has replaced 2 batteries. If you find out what is causing it, please post the answer.
I have the rattle/vibration you describe. I suspect it's the heavy catalyser wanting it's freedom
Since this is the only discrepancy I have, I will let it deteriorate until something falls off the truck. I keep flooring the rig once a day praying the catalyser debris will fly out through the tailpipe. Who knows?
The VW 170HP 2.0L TDI engine is a jewel. It should stand 0.00021% above your emission standards :shades:
To answer your specific question, when I drove in hills and mountains I would sometimes have a violent bucking after a long uphill drive and then letting off the accelerator at the top. I think it is a programming issue involving the EGR system, fuel map, and probably the transmission shifting routine. I don't know. Just one of many failures of the automatic-transmission CRD in my view.
I agree with you zachinmi, Daimler is now in India... They have a chance to recover from the "Cherokee Indian image" they abused of over here. Europeans have a tendency to become 'soft ' when they hear about American Indians. The CRD technology has nothing as truly reliable.
PS: I heard the Santa sold my old Green Beast once again after being in the hands of DCX for 6 months.
farout
Good luck.
farout
We have no snow, just cold and damp. The CRD loves this weather: it purrs!
Your new president seems like he really likes us yanks. If there is one thing our two countries need is a spirit of openess and peace. I think this just might become a reality.
Have a blessed Christmas!
farout
The shrinking dollar is unfair because it makes it impossible for many Americans to enjoy travelling abroad. Making good deals this way has no appeal. I wish to keep my CRD for a long time, and I will probably "de-rate it" more to get rid of the unnecessary bells and whistles that are clever enough to force us to drive to the dealership.
If there is another Jeep, it will be chopped down to a minimum and have steel bumpers. I guess this is part of my ugly byker's left overs
Even my fuel mileage is increased to around 29mpg highway speed now. I currently have 45,000 and change on the odo. That's 5mpg better than my wifes '02' Liberty Limited V-6. Best wishes for a Happy New Year to al!!
The CRD either turns over slowly then dies or just click click click. I have had to jump start it on several occasions in December all jumps are needed after sitting overnight.
I have had the blower, torque converter and ball joint recalls done.
Any thoughts or suggestions would be most appreciated.
I believe there was a recall for a battery draining problem back in the early days of owning my Liberty CRD, but can't remember what the problem was. I know my battery was replaced under a recall on the battery.
I hope this helps.
Laid Back in Fredonia, Pa
PS; The Hermatage, Pa Jeep dealer has a great service department and has done a wonderful job servicing the CDR including the recalls, replacing the EGR, Antilock sensor and doesn't rape me too bad on the oil changes. Never took it too them for the battery draing problem as I thought it was my fault for leaving things pluged in. Many devices have batteries that charge while pluged in and will draw on the battery even if plugged in and turned off.
:confuse:
Consider writing up a report in Dealer Ratings and Reviews.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
great way to start off my new year.
The tow truck driver said I could just siphen the tank and fill it with Diesel, replace the fuel filter and I'm good to go.
Is this true, do I risk doing further damage to my engine? I was going to replace the fuel filter today anyway but they didn't have one in stock.
Any advice.
Soltronic, the truck driver is right.
In theory you just need to replace the gasoline with diesel fuel, change the filter and go. In such a case you have fewer issues with a diesel engine than with a gasoline one.
There are many countries where the quality of fuel is uncertain, and where you live plain gasoline is CLEAN compared to what diesels are burning around the world.
In good practice your best bid would be to siphon what you can from the filling port and pump out the rest through the intake fuel line when you disconnect to replace the filter.
To be safe, diesel fuel is not as easily flammable as gasoline, so don't smoke and don't use an electrical motor with brushes to pump out the fuel. A vintage hand drill driving a plastic pallet pump would be ideal in your case. Avoid putting overpressure. in your tank or sucking gasoline via a separator such as an ash container/separator between a vacuum source and the tank. In your case the smell of gasoline is more dangerous than the sight/presence of the liquid itself.
Ideally you want to get the fuel tank completely drained. Not sure if it has a bottom drain plug, but that would be best. I would not trust just siphoning because that would probably leave some gasoline in, and it only takes very small amounts of gasoline to destroy fuel lubricity, whic can cause your injector pump to fail or wear out extremely fast, which is a lot of money to replace. Taking the time now could save you hundreds of dollars down the road (assuming the pump wasn't already damaged by the gasoline that has gone through the engine so far).
Disconnect 1 battery lead and put the meter in between the battery and the cable.
You should read a small current that is keeping the various memories going.
The first one should be in the cabin fuse block, it is the one that keeps the memories going. Leave that one out and see what you get. If you still have current then pull fuses 1 at a time until you get to 0.
It should be fairly obvious to kill your battery that fast.
The alternator has a plug if you do not find it with the fuses.
I have left a CB, GPS and digital compass plugged in all weekend and not had any problems starting.
Since I disconnected mine, I do not have a large lag off idle and no clouds of smoke.
I also do not have an intermittent stall.
I am not sure if it is just the EGR valve or the programming or a combination of the two.
I have been getting 22-26 depending upon fuel and temperature.
Out of everybody here I have to say I have been the luckiest for mileage on this puppy.
A couple of factors that determines your mileage.
One is area fuel . Where is your fuel coming from? ..If it's Texas .well for some reason they have poor quality fuel and alot of the people on here complain about the mileage they are getting because of this reason.It has to do with the cetane levels in the fuel. and also how fresh your fuel is. If there is a firesale on this stuff ,look out ! it may be old fuel sitting for awhile, thats gone stale.and would produce poor mileage.but it'll run..And buy ' Diesel ultra,' or "premium" Lately there has been more availability of U.L.S.D. Look for stations that have it. I like to use B.P Premium, and Shell Ultra.I have had good results from this.And don't cheap out "fill her up full", not just a few gallons and expect instant results.Oh especially in the winter use fuel additives for diesel fuel.I have found best results with power service cetane improver, they even have water eliminator now as well.also I believe in stanadyne products .I think they are the best. The engine won't smoke as much,and water is -bad-bad for mileage.Most gas stations don't drain their fuel tanks, so you may be pumping 15% water into your tank.Additives help mileage in this case. I also believe in an upper cylinder additives like lucas formula.fuel pumps are very expensive if you don't take care of lubricating them.besides she runs smoother in the winter when I use this stuff.
Break in period ..this will suck the fuel until she is broke in .This will last till about 40,000 miles. Diesel have High compression piston rings that need to wear in and seat.
Also regular oil changes. Use the mobile 1 suggested 0W40 oil from the dealer , unless you can find it elswhere cheaper.I usually change mine just before along trip ,or every 4000 miles until she's broken in.. This is a big one.People here are reluctant to change their oil as it is a big cost for the filter and oil.It'll run you $75.
But save you in the long run if you travel alot.Oh and city mileage is different than Hyway mileage .also in the summer you'll have better results than the winter.As the engines needs to be hot to run better.You may find an instant 2 mpg difference after an oil change.I have all synthetic fluid in my drive trane.
Another factor is tire pressure. pump your tires to 37-38 pounds.this will produce less rolling rsistance. But watch out ! the stock wranglers they put on her are crap for traction and this can be dangerous in winter weather.I have good AT tires for this purpose. Try these few suggestions and let me know how you do? I figure you'll get 26-28Mpg in no time. But if you are a mileage fanatic like ME !. Try driving 55mph in cruise for week in front of a tractor trailer .Be sure to bring her up to 65mpg then put it in cruise,and "decel" till you hit 55mpg. and watch you mileage go up. just don't be in hurry anywhere, and you'll save. I always leave 10 minutes early for work , because I know I am saving one way or another. I have been getting consistantly 31mpg. Good luck and good cruising..be safe..
I think I'll change my name to "mileage NUT" ...lightnin..
i have to agree that the person getting 23mpg has a problem. i live in washington state and on highways at about 65 near sea level i am getting over 30mpg. i haven't used any special diesel or additives. my engine is using synthetic oil. i have about 24k miles on the car and have gotten this kind of mileage for most of the last year.
i don't know what to suggest, but some kind of checklist for possible problem areas seems to be justified.
But I have experimented with lower speeds to no avail. I've got 55k on it, so it should be broken in. My fuel is Conoco-Phillips or truck stops. I've used Power Stroke with no noticeable improvement. Fuel filter is reasonably fresh, use 5w40 Rotella, tires inflated to 38psi, had an EGR replacement and all the recalls.At $3.30 a gal. I would love to see 26 plus mpg.
The only thing I can think of is a performance chip.
glad you replied. I am sure there is alot of factors why your stuck at the 26mpg mark.
lets deduce what could help you here.
I will start with factor that can be easily changed .
When was the last time you had an oil change? I would try the mobile 1 0W40.
If your at the 4000 miles your due to get it changed. this will help internal resistances.
How about the tranny,and transfer case,differentials fluids , all changed to synthetic??
Break in fluids have a tendency to collect metal shavings which plugs filters and other bad bad stuff. including giving you -2mpg.
What kind of tires you have on her? Aggressive treads would also do this but thats understandable as it is winter.you want to be safe.
How about using the plug in oil heater at night time. This will help you save mileage as well.
Drive in Cruise on the hyway. Bring it up to 70mph .
Then set the cruise on,
next , use the decel button to drop your speed to 55mph
as your doing this , it should stay in 5th gear, and drop your rpm's to 1700-1800. you'll be idling down the road.
It'll seem slow , but I know I am saving in this matter.When your going faster this kicks in the turbo and it sucks the fuel.
Also about the fuel now..
If you are only buying regular diesel, this may be the reason.
She'll run better on U.L.S.D. or the premium brand diesel fuel.
there are 2 types on the market now.
look for stations that carry it.
you want the highest "cetane" fuel you can get.This helps build heat in the engine.
A hot engine performs better than a cold one.
Cetane is octane for diesel.most regular runs at about 45, premium is 50 -52,with the premium fuel, add a good dose of power service cetane improver , with lucas formula or a water eliminator, I have gotten great results from this combination.
Or if you can get Stanadyne products that is even better.Their performance formula is great.
Our worst enemy for mileage is water in the fuel.We will take a hit in the winter monthes, because of the water content in the fuel from condensation and reluctance for gas stations to drain off the water in the tanks.which is usually around 15% ,
Thats why you don't want to run empty on her in the winter.Water sits in the bottom of the tank. and can freeze your fuel lines.
The concept is that a diesel gives best performance when "HOT" , water takes the heat away, as it is being atomized with the fuel into the cylinder chamber.
As we all know the fuel/mist water is compressed and heat is created , and then the explosion, but this is dampered slightly as the water take this energy and turns into steam. so there is a loss there.
In a Diesel... fuel is everything.
If you put garbage in ,you get garbage performance out.
Use premium fuel like shell, ultra diesel, B.P Premium.Look for the tags on the pumps. Citgo #1 & 2 , some stations are already carrying U.L.S.D fuel and advertise it.
This puppy was designed for it.not the dirty stuff we got as regular.
This can be countered by a regular dose every fill up of conditioners.
fuel conditioners, like Kleen Flo,or power service 911 "red bottle" for water elimination .and anti gelling ,plus injector cleaner.very important.
Use this every fill up.
In cold weather The fuel has a tendency to gel up like jello "waxing" this plugs up injectors and fuel filters, which gives poor performance as this starves the engine for power, and smokes alot. Using Lucas formulas or an injector cleaner for diesel, plus cetane improver fuel stabilizer will help deter this.
And watch out for cheap fuels as this may have been sitting for a couple of monthes and is stale fuel.Which give poor performance.
Lets try this first. lets talk in a couple of weeks and let me know how you do.
Peace Lightnin...