Yes. I had the Trans rebuilt at 18000 when it died and also the F37. They replaced the TC, pump and upgraded the transmission cooler. With the cooler temps the TC is slipping-shuddering at 52 mph and going up a long hill. It has done this since the first TC replacement, I am not sure why. I think that when you keep the rpm above 2000 the pump is putting out enough to keep the TC locked properly so no shudder. If the trans fails again I am thinking of taking nescosmos idea and using the suncoast TC along with the other upgrades to get this trans to take the torque of the diesel.
I am new to this forum and find it to be a great resource for an owner that maintains his own vehicle. I have just purchased an 06 Liberty CRD. I have read the instructions for the fuel filter replacement, here in the forum but often the instruction calls for priming the canister with diesel treatment rather than clean diesel fuel. What is the reasoning behind that? Will the engine run on straight diesel treatment? Any help would be appreciated. :confuse: "
Using diesel treatment is more a question of belief rather than good engineering practice. If you live in a 'clean-ish' area, I would strongly recommend you to dismount the complete filter assembly from the firewall and install the new cartridge on a workbench over a pail or pan to catch the fuel that inevitably comes out of the metal canister (filter body). You will see and understand a bit more what you're doing. I sometimes clamp the filter on the corner of a worktable to reach all around it.
Priming is simple when the fuel return line is disconnected. Just pump the fuel through the filter and collect the first cubic inch of fuel expelled from the return line fitting. Once you have the continuous fuel circuit you simply reconnect the return line. This way you don't spill fuel all over the firewall and you don't take any risk of air reaching into the circuit
Just in case anyone is interested -- the following is the email address for an online SERVICE MANUAL!!!! for the CRD. Its alot to look at but ALL the info you need is there. There is also a parts listing in here. Good Luck!!!
amsoil cold flow additives are made in canada i ran a commercial greenhouse for almost forty years an we had a saying do not buy a tree that grew more than a hundred miles away so i believe you should buy additives made where it is cold people in texas no nothing about cold treatment but people in canada and alaska do amsoil additives use jet fuel deicer and works very well when it gets cold carbou1 may disagree and i will respect that
synlubes, in all countries trucks have their fuel tanks exposed to ambient temperature. The last time I saw diesel fuel freezing during winter was here in France about 30 years ago. Military diesel was distributed immediately to international truckers and since then the cheapest diesel fuel can be used at -25°C. If you live in a colder part of the world and you still see diesel trucks operating, then you know that the fuel is adapted. I come from Montreal and know what cooooold means
I'm using winterized B5 ULSD nowadays. My fuel consumption increased by almost 30% (was 10.5L, is now 13.5!). I wish I could have jet fuel instead.
Concerning trees, if you build a wooden house here you won't be able to have the builder's liability insurance for the first 10 years :sick:
Jm8032.... The guys talk to you like you know what your are doing, let me explain.
you only put diesel treatment at the tank and is only ounces to make the diesel fuel stronger, with lubricity and cetane (ontanage in gas name).
The best way to replace your filter is like Caribou said; Take the fuel lines off then take the hole assembly out, make sure you take the plugs out and the bottom plug too.
Take off the filter like an oil filter put lubricant to the gaskets(grease is better) and put it back. Prime it with the pump and blow the air out (by loosing the small fitting on the side of the assemble) then close it and prime again until you have only fuel coming out without air; And that is it.
Once a month prime the filter and blow some air out that is collected with use, this is very important for the CRD to run smooth.
Interesting, that with all the notes about the shudder, which can escalate to bucking, that I am also in the buy back process. I am sure that if I were to do the work myself I could solve the issue, and pay the prices for those repairs. But the point is that this vehicle is still under warranty, and I have paid good dollars for a vehicle that I should not have to repair myself, especially when the problem has been there since day 1. If I wanted a fixer upper I would have bought an older used vehicle and used the money saved for the repairs. I sold my old fixer upper when I got my Liberty, and was looking forward to reliability.
Try googling "jeff bell motor press guild"or wwwsg.daimlerchrysler.com/sd7dev/gms/templates/gms_press_rele... I'm trying to get a response from chrysler on this warranty issue .No results yet. emp2
I have been running some tests on my CRD The TC will lock up in 3 (OD off), 4 and 5 The only time I can get a shudder is 4 from 50-57. I am wondering if the problem is the programming is doing a full lockup in 3 & 5 but is modulating the TC lockup solenoid in 4. I am not sure how to fix this.
Did you have the transmission recall done? The speed you mention for the shudder is the same as most CRD owners experience. My driving allows me to get past 60 most of the time so it really is not a problem to me. I did have the tranny recall done on mine with some minor noticable results.
Just hit 74K and still have the same EGR valve since 28K. Did have to clean out the piping for the egr at 60K. Got the 401 code. It is real easy to clean out. Used brake cleaner and shop rags. Used a shop vac with an oil fired boiler clean out attachment to clean out the intake manifold. Then sprayed ULSD into the intake manifold after using the vacuum. Had to use a few rags to catch all the oily black gunk that came out of the intake manifold. After putting it all back together and changing the engine oil and filter I started it up. It really smoked for about 15 minutes of hard driving. Cleared the code and no more check engine light since. I called the dealer about changing the egr valve and was told $545 just for the EGR and it would only be warranted for 24K. I have not put the provent or the EGR mod on this CRD. I don't feel the egr is the problem. But directing the CCV vapors into the intake stream is really clogging up the intake and restricting the egr stream. Once the oil vapors from the CCV hit the heated egr gas they turn into hard sootie carbon. It looks like I will have to clean the intake out every 60K. Just normal maintenance for this thing. I can't wait to tackle the timing belt on this engine. It looks like a good 8 hour job. That will be at 100K. I don't trust the dealers to experiement on mine so I will do it myself.
I really do like this CRD. I just hate the dealers service departments. Use dieselKlean injector cleaner about every 30K. If the injectors don't spray correctly it will affect your performance and mileage. I noticed when the engine seems to have a slight miss when cold, that this is when I use the injector cleaner in the next tank of fuel. It normally clears up after the first 50 miles on the treated tank of fuel.
Yep I have the shudder issue as well. I have had the torque convertor replace twice along with the transmission pump. The computer has also been reprogrammed twice. The problem is better but not completly resolved. I have enacted the lemon law on the vehicle for this issue that the dealer and manufacture have admitted to have no complete resolve for. I like the CRD and really dont have any plans to have the vehicle replaced. What I hope will come out of the arbitration is an extended powertrane warranty at the manufactures expense. This way its on them if this issue in the long term damages any of the drivetrain.
Yes. This actually started when they changed the TC the first time when it failed and they also did a re-program, I am thinking it was the F37 before it was officially released. They did the full F37-pump, TC etc and the only thing I have noticed is that I get a metal squeak when the temp is below 20F and the RPM's are in a specific range. I pretty much ignore it.
Hello everyone, I've had my day in court and Chrysler has been ordered to buy back my CRD less usage, I received the letter Thursday and returned the vehicle yesterday. This has been a long painful road to get to this point. I'm totally stunned how the Chrysler Lawyer swore to tell the truth and proceeded to lie thru his teeth. They know there is big problems with this vehicle and that's why they declined to bring the two dealers who worked on my particular CRD as witnesses for their case, they know there is a big problem which can't be fixed. It is an engineering issue. It is my belief that the turbo and emission side of this are stretched to the max to meet regulations in 05/06. VW couldn't do and they are the leaders in this area, I have an 05 TDI passat which was the last year for 2.0 liter, because of emissions. I test drove another CRD to base line mine provided by the dealer, it did the same thing but much more quieter as I know what to look for and how to do it, I did not subject it to the test drive which I performed for the Lawyer and Arbitrator which I did for mine. If the lawyer/Chrysler is stating that this is normal for this engine and they spent $15,000.00 to repair mine, what about the rest of the CRD's? If you drive on flat land, you will not know this condition exists. Try drive up a steep hill at 60kph hold the the go peddle at 2200-2500 rpm and see if it makes a grinding/rattling metal to metal sound. I wont be surprised if you do, it's heard and felt and goes immedialty away if you pull back or accelerate past 2500 rpm, its most noticeable in 3rd gear. It's not the transmission as that was changed along with two torque converters. I live in the mountains and mine got to the point it was violent. I'm very happy of the outcome but also disappointed with the manufacturer and how they handled all this.
I am having exactly the same problem with a 2006 Jeep Liberty CRD. It doesn't matter whether it is winter or summer, If you don't start it in 3 - 5 days, the battery will go dead. The dealer has replaced 2 batteries. If you find out what is causing it, please post the answer.
Kellog13, I have the rattle/vibration you describe. I suspect it's the heavy catalyser wanting it's freedom
Since this is the only discrepancy I have, I will let it deteriorate until something falls off the truck. I keep flooring the rig once a day praying the catalyser debris will fly out through the tailpipe. Who knows?
The VW 170HP 2.0L TDI engine is a jewel. It should stand 0.00021% above your emission standards :shades:
Kellog - glad you got an OK resolution. I am always curious to read these posts as I chose to not fight and just trade-in my CRD at a significant loss to avoid the hassle of a lawsuit and immediately get a different vehicle without driveability problems. I have 2.5 months and 4500 miles on my Suburban with no problems. Not a difficult test, but one the CRD couldn't pass. I am not surprised Chrysler's lawyers fought badly on this issue, it is clear to me that the problem is design and therefore common to all CRDs sold in the US. From what I've read online this is not the only vehicle with a crippling design defect that Chrysler has sold; read up on sludge issues with the 2.7L V6 engine in all sorts of their FWD cars. I have no plans to buy another Chrysler in the future and I am skeptical of how long they will stay in business. I won't be surprised if they become nothing but a marketing name for foreign made cars.
To answer your specific question, when I drove in hills and mountains I would sometimes have a violent bucking after a long uphill drive and then letting off the accelerator at the top. I think it is a programming issue involving the EGR system, fuel map, and probably the transmission shifting routine. I don't know. Just one of many failures of the automatic-transmission CRD in my view.
I won't be surprised if they become nothing but a marketing name for foreign made cars. I agree with you zachinmi, Daimler is now in India... They have a chance to recover from the "Cherokee Indian image" they abused of over here. Europeans have a tendency to become 'soft ' when they hear about American Indians. The CRD technology has nothing as truly reliable.
Their was a recall on the A/C fan motor that I received 8 or so months ago. The blower motor has a short in it in the 05 and 06 liberty. The blower motor continues to draw current even when not in use and in extreme cases has actually caught on fire. I have had the motor replace in mine but I guess as a result it damaged the battery and alternator so now bot of those have been replaced.
Hello Caribou and others on the CRD forum! This is Farout, and I want to wish you all a very Merry Christmas! God be with you all in the coming year, keep you safe and your CRD's running smooth!
PS: I heard the Santa sold my old Green Beast once again after being in the hands of DCX for 6 months.
Check the Freewheel pulley on the Alternator. These start to wear out at 55,000 miles. They are supposed to freewheel in one direction and lock without slipping in the other direction. If it slips it is bad and will cause the voltage to surge under load in your vehicle. All they have to do is replace the pulley. NOT the Alternator. Good luck.
caribou1: With the srinking dollar you just might make a super good deal if you came over here to get your next Jeep!
Your new president seems like he really likes us yanks. If there is one thing our two countries need is a spirit of openess and peace. I think this just might become a reality.
Hi farout, The shrinking dollar is unfair because it makes it impossible for many Americans to enjoy travelling abroad. Making good deals this way has no appeal. I wish to keep my CRD for a long time, and I will probably "de-rate it" more to get rid of the unnecessary bells and whistles that are clever enough to force us to drive to the dealership. If there is another Jeep, it will be chopped down to a minimum and have steel bumpers. I guess this is part of my ugly byker's left overs
Well, it's been a very long time since I last checked in and I must say I am thankful that my CRD is running well. Of course it's on it's fourth EGR valve and the 'reflash of the ECM" when they changed out torque convertor may have helped. Even my fuel mileage is increased to around 29mpg highway speed now. I currently have 45,000 and change on the odo. That's 5mpg better than my wifes '02' Liberty Limited V-6. Best wishes for a Happy New Year to al!!
Greetings all. Hope everyone survived the holidays in good order. Wish I could say the same for my CRD. Maybe a month ago the BCM was reflashed in the hope that doing so would stop what seems like a draining of the battery by mysterious forces. The battery and alternator passed the test during my last visit at the dealers shop and they did the BCM reflash.
The CRD either turns over slowly then dies or just click click click. I have had to jump start it on several occasions in December all jumps are needed after sitting overnight. Currently it is sitting in my garage (in need of yet another jump) as I am trying to decide what to do next as there is still some warranty left. Jump start it again thereby making the hidden power draining problem disappear or have it towed to the dealership in it's what I guess is a drained condition. Called manager who said it didn't matter which I chose. Perhaps I should hook it up to a battery tester first at home.
I have had the blower, torque converter and ball joint recalls done. Any thoughts or suggestions would be most appreciated.
The same battery drain problem occurs on my 2006 Jeep Liberty CRD w/ 76k miles on it here in the fridgid North Western Pennsylvania winters. I found that the problem does not occur if I unplug the accesories that I have pluged into the lighter overnight (GPS, Sat Radio and Cell Phone Charger). Even if the units are off and plugged in, it kills the battery for some reason???
I believe there was a recall for a battery draining problem back in the early days of owning my Liberty CRD, but can't remember what the problem was. I know my battery was replaced under a recall on the battery.
I hope this helps.
Laid Back in Fredonia, Pa
PS; The Hermatage, Pa Jeep dealer has a great service department and has done a wonderful job servicing the CDR including the recalls, replacing the EGR, Antilock sensor and doesn't rape me too bad on the oil changes. Never took it too them for the battery draing problem as I thought it was my fault for leaving things pluged in. Many devices have batteries that charge while pluged in and will draw on the battery even if plugged in and turned off.
Diesel Farmer thanks for the input. I never leave things plugged in. I will consider finding another service option if the situation remaines unresolved.
Hello. I have the same problem, leave the CRD for more than 3 days and the battery is completly dead. I think the solution has to come from Jeep themselves as there are many similar blog postings as yours in this forum. Perhaps if you were to point out to your dealer that the problem is not isolated to your vehicle, the dealer may exercise their infuence with Daimler. In the mean time, if leaving a trickle charger on doesnt bother you that may be the solution. Could you tell me what year your vehicle is, for the ball joint replacement?
Hi Storeguy My CRD is an 06. I don't aspire to be an auto technician though I am a bit put off when told it didn't matter if I jumped it to a start (thereby making the cause disappear for a while) or towing the CRD to the repair garage. Sure as I jump it off again the mysterious battery draining will stop for a while though just long enough for its cause not to be found. If I keep the CRD I will defiantly invest in a trickle charger and ohmmeter voltage checker thingy.
Well, at the risk of getting totally flamed, here goes. You guessed it. I put unleaded in my new Jeep Liberty CRD. I was late to pick my son up from school and I stopped in a new station to quickly grab a few gallons to get me to my usual gas station. Well the unleaded handle was green. I didn't even look at it as I saw the price of Diesel on the sign outside. I was driving down the road and it suddenly died. I had just picked it up from a full lube oil and filter so I naturally thought that they had done something wrong. I grabbed the receipt off the seat next to me and called the guys at the shop and in mid sentence went completely red when I remembered the price of the gas was under 3 bucks. I feel so stupid for not paying closer attention. I talked to the dealership and I'm looking at $400 to drop the tank, drain the lines and replace the filter. great way to start off my new year. The tow truck driver said I could just siphen the tank and fill it with Diesel, replace the fuel filter and I'm good to go. Is this true, do I risk doing further damage to my engine? I was going to replace the fuel filter today anyway but they didn't have one in stock. Any advice.
Hi all and Happy New Year, Soltronic, the truck driver is right. In theory you just need to replace the gasoline with diesel fuel, change the filter and go. In such a case you have fewer issues with a diesel engine than with a gasoline one.
There are many countries where the quality of fuel is uncertain, and where you live plain gasoline is CLEAN compared to what diesels are burning around the world.
In good practice your best bid would be to siphon what you can from the filling port and pump out the rest through the intake fuel line when you disconnect to replace the filter.
To be safe, diesel fuel is not as easily flammable as gasoline, so don't smoke and don't use an electrical motor with brushes to pump out the fuel. A vintage hand drill driving a plastic pallet pump would be ideal in your case. Avoid putting overpressure. in your tank or sucking gasoline via a separator such as an ash container/separator between a vacuum source and the tank. In your case the smell of gasoline is more dangerous than the sight/presence of the liquid itself.
Just out of curiosity has anyone had the battery draining problem solved by having a BCM body control module reflash? Also the new towing number for those of you still under warrenty is 1-800-992-1997
Soltronic, this happens more often than you might think, don't feel too bad. A good friend of mine who alternated between a 1-ton dually gasser and a 1-ton diesel managed to get the wrong fuel in each of them within 6 months. Life happens.
Ideally you want to get the fuel tank completely drained. Not sure if it has a bottom drain plug, but that would be best. I would not trust just siphoning because that would probably leave some gasoline in, and it only takes very small amounts of gasoline to destroy fuel lubricity, whic can cause your injector pump to fail or wear out extremely fast, which is a lot of money to replace. Taking the time now could save you hundreds of dollars down the road (assuming the pump wasn't already damaged by the gasoline that has gone through the engine so far).
I would recommend a meter with a 10 amp scale. Disconnect 1 battery lead and put the meter in between the battery and the cable. You should read a small current that is keeping the various memories going. The first one should be in the cabin fuse block, it is the one that keeps the memories going. Leave that one out and see what you get. If you still have current then pull fuses 1 at a time until you get to 0. It should be fairly obvious to kill your battery that fast. The alternator has a plug if you do not find it with the fuses.
I have left a CB, GPS and digital compass plugged in all weekend and not had any problems starting.
Soltronic I did something similar once. I put diesel into a gasoline generator. Talk about smokescreen. You could see the smoke for blocks. Fortunately for me it happened in the wee hours of the morning I doubt anyone noticed it. I just drained the tank and refueled with gasoline it smoked another 1/2 hr then ok.
mdamickk Thanks for the info. I am going to put the meter on my Christmas list for this year along with a trickle charger and perhaps one of those solar charging thingies some people have on their dashboards.
These high mpg's amaze me. I get 23 highway PERIOD. My question is whether an adjustment can be made to slow the fuel getting to the injectors.My guess is that the injectors would need to be replaced. I get a lot of particulate matter out of the exhaust pipe when I tromp on it.
I think it is caused by the EGR. Since I disconnected mine, I do not have a large lag off idle and no clouds of smoke. I also do not have an intermittent stall. I am not sure if it is just the EGR valve or the programming or a combination of the two. I have been getting 22-26 depending upon fuel and temperature.
23 highway is too low. I got 23-24mpg in mixed commuting with cold starts, 26mpg for pure freeway (65-75mph for 100's of miles at a time) and as high as 30mpg for pure 55mph highway with no stops. Check your fuel filter, then start looking for other problems.
Hi all ! I hope everyone had a save Jeep'in holidays !!.. Out of everybody here I have to say I have been the luckiest for mileage on this puppy. A couple of factors that determines your mileage. One is area fuel . Where is your fuel coming from? ..If it's Texas .well for some reason they have poor quality fuel and alot of the people on here complain about the mileage they are getting because of this reason.It has to do with the cetane levels in the fuel. and also how fresh your fuel is. If there is a firesale on this stuff ,look out ! it may be old fuel sitting for awhile, thats gone stale.and would produce poor mileage.but it'll run..And buy ' Diesel ultra,' or "premium" Lately there has been more availability of U.L.S.D. Look for stations that have it. I like to use B.P Premium, and Shell Ultra.I have had good results from this.And don't cheap out "fill her up full", not just a few gallons and expect instant results.Oh especially in the winter use fuel additives for diesel fuel.I have found best results with power service cetane improver, they even have water eliminator now as well.also I believe in stanadyne products .I think they are the best. The engine won't smoke as much,and water is -bad-bad for mileage.Most gas stations don't drain their fuel tanks, so you may be pumping 15% water into your tank.Additives help mileage in this case. I also believe in an upper cylinder additives like lucas formula.fuel pumps are very expensive if you don't take care of lubricating them.besides she runs smoother in the winter when I use this stuff. Break in period ..this will suck the fuel until she is broke in .This will last till about 40,000 miles. Diesel have High compression piston rings that need to wear in and seat. Also regular oil changes. Use the mobile 1 suggested 0W40 oil from the dealer , unless you can find it elswhere cheaper.I usually change mine just before along trip ,or every 4000 miles until she's broken in.. This is a big one.People here are reluctant to change their oil as it is a big cost for the filter and oil.It'll run you $75. But save you in the long run if you travel alot.Oh and city mileage is different than Hyway mileage .also in the summer you'll have better results than the winter.As the engines needs to be hot to run better.You may find an instant 2 mpg difference after an oil change.I have all synthetic fluid in my drive trane. Another factor is tire pressure. pump your tires to 37-38 pounds.this will produce less rolling rsistance. But watch out ! the stock wranglers they put on her are crap for traction and this can be dangerous in winter weather.I have good AT tires for this purpose. Try these few suggestions and let me know how you do? I figure you'll get 26-28Mpg in no time. But if you are a mileage fanatic like ME !. Try driving 55mph in cruise for week in front of a tractor trailer .Be sure to bring her up to 65mpg then put it in cruise,and "decel" till you hit 55mpg. and watch you mileage go up. just don't be in hurry anywhere, and you'll save. I always leave 10 minutes early for work , because I know I am saving one way or another. I have been getting consistantly 31mpg. Good luck and good cruising..be safe.. I think I'll change my name to "mileage NUT" ...lightnin..
hi, i have to agree that the person getting 23mpg has a problem. i live in washington state and on highways at about 65 near sea level i am getting over 30mpg. i haven't used any special diesel or additives. my engine is using synthetic oil. i have about 24k miles on the car and have gotten this kind of mileage for most of the last year.
i don't know what to suggest, but some kind of checklist for possible problem areas seems to be justified.
My CRD runs great. Maybe too good. I do have the tendency to run 75 on the I-state. But I have experimented with lower speeds to no avail. I've got 55k on it, so it should be broken in. My fuel is Conoco-Phillips or truck stops. I've used Power Stroke with no noticeable improvement. Fuel filter is reasonably fresh, use 5w40 Rotella, tires inflated to 38psi, had an EGR replacement and all the recalls.At $3.30 a gal. I would love to see 26 plus mpg. The only thing I can think of is a performance chip.
Hi dcxman !, glad you replied. I am sure there is alot of factors why your stuck at the 26mpg mark. lets deduce what could help you here. I will start with factor that can be easily changed . When was the last time you had an oil change? I would try the mobile 1 0W40. If your at the 4000 miles your due to get it changed. this will help internal resistances. How about the tranny,and transfer case,differentials fluids , all changed to synthetic?? Break in fluids have a tendency to collect metal shavings which plugs filters and other bad bad stuff. including giving you -2mpg. What kind of tires you have on her? Aggressive treads would also do this but thats understandable as it is winter.you want to be safe. How about using the plug in oil heater at night time. This will help you save mileage as well.
Drive in Cruise on the hyway. Bring it up to 70mph . Then set the cruise on, next , use the decel button to drop your speed to 55mph as your doing this , it should stay in 5th gear, and drop your rpm's to 1700-1800. you'll be idling down the road. It'll seem slow , but I know I am saving in this matter.When your going faster this kicks in the turbo and it sucks the fuel. Also about the fuel now.. If you are only buying regular diesel, this may be the reason. She'll run better on U.L.S.D. or the premium brand diesel fuel. there are 2 types on the market now. look for stations that carry it. you want the highest "cetane" fuel you can get.This helps build heat in the engine. A hot engine performs better than a cold one.
Cetane is octane for diesel.most regular runs at about 45, premium is 50 -52,with the premium fuel, add a good dose of power service cetane improver , with lucas formula or a water eliminator, I have gotten great results from this combination. Or if you can get Stanadyne products that is even better.Their performance formula is great.
Our worst enemy for mileage is water in the fuel.We will take a hit in the winter monthes, because of the water content in the fuel from condensation and reluctance for gas stations to drain off the water in the tanks.which is usually around 15% , Thats why you don't want to run empty on her in the winter.Water sits in the bottom of the tank. and can freeze your fuel lines. The concept is that a diesel gives best performance when "HOT" , water takes the heat away, as it is being atomized with the fuel into the cylinder chamber. As we all know the fuel/mist water is compressed and heat is created , and then the explosion, but this is dampered slightly as the water take this energy and turns into steam. so there is a loss there. In a Diesel... fuel is everything. If you put garbage in ,you get garbage performance out. Use premium fuel like shell, ultra diesel, B.P Premium.Look for the tags on the pumps. Citgo #1 & 2 , some stations are already carrying U.L.S.D fuel and advertise it. This puppy was designed for it.not the dirty stuff we got as regular. This can be countered by a regular dose every fill up of conditioners. fuel conditioners, like Kleen Flo,or power service 911 "red bottle" for water elimination .and anti gelling ,plus injector cleaner.very important. Use this every fill up. In cold weather The fuel has a tendency to gel up like jello "waxing" this plugs up injectors and fuel filters, which gives poor performance as this starves the engine for power, and smokes alot. Using Lucas formulas or an injector cleaner for diesel, plus cetane improver fuel stabilizer will help deter this. And watch out for cheap fuels as this may have been sitting for a couple of monthes and is stale fuel.Which give poor performance. Lets try this first. lets talk in a couple of weeks and let me know how you do. Peace Lightnin...
Comments
I had the Trans rebuilt at 18000 when it died and also the F37.
They replaced the TC, pump and upgraded the transmission cooler.
With the cooler temps the TC is slipping-shuddering at 52 mph and going up a long hill.
It has done this since the first TC replacement, I am not sure why.
I think that when you keep the rpm above 2000 the pump is putting out enough to keep the TC locked properly so no shudder.
If the trans fails again I am thinking of taking nescosmos idea and using the suncoast TC along with the other upgrades to get this trans to take the torque of the diesel.
I sometimes clamp the filter on the corner of a worktable to reach all around it.
Priming is simple when the fuel return line is disconnected. Just pump the fuel through the filter and collect the first cubic inch of fuel expelled from the return line fitting. Once you have the continuous fuel circuit you simply reconnect the return line. This way you don't spill fuel all over the firewall and you don't take any risk of air reaching into the circuit
http://128.230.243.180/jeep/
I'm using winterized B5 ULSD nowadays. My fuel consumption increased by almost 30% (was 10.5L, is now 13.5!). I wish I could have jet fuel instead.
Concerning trees, if you build a wooden house here you won't be able to have the builder's liability insurance for the first 10 years :sick:
you only put diesel treatment at the tank and is only ounces to make the diesel fuel stronger, with lubricity and cetane (ontanage in gas name).
The best way to replace your filter is like Caribou said; Take the fuel lines off then take the hole assembly out, make sure you take the plugs out and the bottom plug too.
Take off the filter like an oil filter put lubricant to the gaskets(grease is better) and put it back. Prime it with the pump and blow the air out (by loosing the small fitting on the side of the assemble) then close it and prime again until you have only fuel coming out without air; And that is it.
Once a month prime the filter and blow some air out that is collected with use, this is very important for the CRD to run smooth.
Nescosmo....
wwwsg.daimlerchrysler.com/sd7dev/gms/templates/gms_press_rele...
I'm trying to get a response from chrysler on this warranty issue .No results yet.
emp2
The TC will lock up in 3 (OD off), 4 and 5
The only time I can get a shudder is 4 from 50-57.
I am wondering if the problem is the programming is doing a full lockup in 3 & 5 but is modulating the TC lockup solenoid in 4. I am not sure how to fix this.
Has anybody else seen this?
I really do like this CRD. I just hate the dealers service departments. Use dieselKlean injector cleaner about every 30K. If the injectors don't spray correctly it will affect your performance and mileage. I noticed when the engine seems to have a slight miss when cold, that this is when I use the injector cleaner in the next tank of fuel. It normally clears up after the first 50 miles on the treated tank of fuel.
Well good luck.
This actually started when they changed the TC the first time when it failed and they also did a re-program, I am thinking it was the F37 before it was officially released.
They did the full F37-pump, TC etc and the only thing I have noticed is that I get a metal squeak when the temp is below 20F and the RPM's are in a specific range.
I pretty much ignore it.
I've had my day in court and Chrysler has been ordered to buy back my CRD less usage, I received the letter Thursday and returned the vehicle yesterday. This has been a long painful road to get to this point. I'm totally stunned how the Chrysler Lawyer swore to tell the truth and proceeded to lie thru his teeth. They know there is big problems with this vehicle and that's why they declined to bring the two dealers who worked on my particular CRD as witnesses for their case, they know there is a big problem which can't be fixed. It is an engineering issue. It is my belief that the turbo and emission side of this are stretched to the max to meet regulations in 05/06. VW couldn't do and they are the leaders in this area, I have an 05 TDI passat which was the last year for 2.0 liter, because of emissions. I test drove another CRD to base line mine provided by the dealer, it did the same thing but much more quieter as I know what to look for and how to do it, I did not subject it to the test drive which I performed for the Lawyer and Arbitrator which I did for mine. If the lawyer/Chrysler is stating that this is normal for this engine and they spent $15,000.00 to repair mine, what about the rest of the CRD's? If you drive on flat land, you will not know this condition exists. Try drive up a steep hill at 60kph hold the the go peddle at 2200-2500 rpm and see if it makes a grinding/rattling metal to metal sound. I wont be surprised if you do, it's heard and felt and goes immedialty away if you pull back or accelerate past 2500 rpm, its most noticeable in 3rd gear. It's not the transmission as that was changed along with two torque converters. I live in the mountains and mine got to the point it was violent. I'm very happy of the outcome but also disappointed with the manufacturer and how they handled all this.
It doesn't matter whether it is winter or summer, If you don't start it in 3 - 5 days, the battery will go dead. The dealer has replaced 2 batteries. If you find out what is causing it, please post the answer.
I have the rattle/vibration you describe. I suspect it's the heavy catalyser wanting it's freedom
Since this is the only discrepancy I have, I will let it deteriorate until something falls off the truck. I keep flooring the rig once a day praying the catalyser debris will fly out through the tailpipe. Who knows?
The VW 170HP 2.0L TDI engine is a jewel. It should stand 0.00021% above your emission standards :shades:
To answer your specific question, when I drove in hills and mountains I would sometimes have a violent bucking after a long uphill drive and then letting off the accelerator at the top. I think it is a programming issue involving the EGR system, fuel map, and probably the transmission shifting routine. I don't know. Just one of many failures of the automatic-transmission CRD in my view.
I agree with you zachinmi, Daimler is now in India... They have a chance to recover from the "Cherokee Indian image" they abused of over here. Europeans have a tendency to become 'soft ' when they hear about American Indians. The CRD technology has nothing as truly reliable.
PS: I heard the Santa sold my old Green Beast once again after being in the hands of DCX for 6 months.
farout
Good luck.
farout
We have no snow, just cold and damp. The CRD loves this weather: it purrs!
Your new president seems like he really likes us yanks. If there is one thing our two countries need is a spirit of openess and peace. I think this just might become a reality.
Have a blessed Christmas!
farout
The shrinking dollar is unfair because it makes it impossible for many Americans to enjoy travelling abroad. Making good deals this way has no appeal. I wish to keep my CRD for a long time, and I will probably "de-rate it" more to get rid of the unnecessary bells and whistles that are clever enough to force us to drive to the dealership.
If there is another Jeep, it will be chopped down to a minimum and have steel bumpers. I guess this is part of my ugly byker's left overs
Even my fuel mileage is increased to around 29mpg highway speed now. I currently have 45,000 and change on the odo. That's 5mpg better than my wifes '02' Liberty Limited V-6. Best wishes for a Happy New Year to al!!
The CRD either turns over slowly then dies or just click click click. I have had to jump start it on several occasions in December all jumps are needed after sitting overnight.
I have had the blower, torque converter and ball joint recalls done.
Any thoughts or suggestions would be most appreciated.
I believe there was a recall for a battery draining problem back in the early days of owning my Liberty CRD, but can't remember what the problem was. I know my battery was replaced under a recall on the battery.
I hope this helps.
Laid Back in Fredonia, Pa
PS; The Hermatage, Pa Jeep dealer has a great service department and has done a wonderful job servicing the CDR including the recalls, replacing the EGR, Antilock sensor and doesn't rape me too bad on the oil changes. Never took it too them for the battery draing problem as I thought it was my fault for leaving things pluged in. Many devices have batteries that charge while pluged in and will draw on the battery even if plugged in and turned off.
:confuse:
Consider writing up a report in Dealer Ratings and Reviews.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
great way to start off my new year.
The tow truck driver said I could just siphen the tank and fill it with Diesel, replace the fuel filter and I'm good to go.
Is this true, do I risk doing further damage to my engine? I was going to replace the fuel filter today anyway but they didn't have one in stock.
Any advice.
Soltronic, the truck driver is right.
In theory you just need to replace the gasoline with diesel fuel, change the filter and go. In such a case you have fewer issues with a diesel engine than with a gasoline one.
There are many countries where the quality of fuel is uncertain, and where you live plain gasoline is CLEAN compared to what diesels are burning around the world.
In good practice your best bid would be to siphon what you can from the filling port and pump out the rest through the intake fuel line when you disconnect to replace the filter.
To be safe, diesel fuel is not as easily flammable as gasoline, so don't smoke and don't use an electrical motor with brushes to pump out the fuel. A vintage hand drill driving a plastic pallet pump would be ideal in your case. Avoid putting overpressure. in your tank or sucking gasoline via a separator such as an ash container/separator between a vacuum source and the tank. In your case the smell of gasoline is more dangerous than the sight/presence of the liquid itself.
Ideally you want to get the fuel tank completely drained. Not sure if it has a bottom drain plug, but that would be best. I would not trust just siphoning because that would probably leave some gasoline in, and it only takes very small amounts of gasoline to destroy fuel lubricity, whic can cause your injector pump to fail or wear out extremely fast, which is a lot of money to replace. Taking the time now could save you hundreds of dollars down the road (assuming the pump wasn't already damaged by the gasoline that has gone through the engine so far).
Disconnect 1 battery lead and put the meter in between the battery and the cable.
You should read a small current that is keeping the various memories going.
The first one should be in the cabin fuse block, it is the one that keeps the memories going. Leave that one out and see what you get. If you still have current then pull fuses 1 at a time until you get to 0.
It should be fairly obvious to kill your battery that fast.
The alternator has a plug if you do not find it with the fuses.
I have left a CB, GPS and digital compass plugged in all weekend and not had any problems starting.
Since I disconnected mine, I do not have a large lag off idle and no clouds of smoke.
I also do not have an intermittent stall.
I am not sure if it is just the EGR valve or the programming or a combination of the two.
I have been getting 22-26 depending upon fuel and temperature.
Out of everybody here I have to say I have been the luckiest for mileage on this puppy.
A couple of factors that determines your mileage.
One is area fuel . Where is your fuel coming from? ..If it's Texas .well for some reason they have poor quality fuel and alot of the people on here complain about the mileage they are getting because of this reason.It has to do with the cetane levels in the fuel. and also how fresh your fuel is. If there is a firesale on this stuff ,look out ! it may be old fuel sitting for awhile, thats gone stale.and would produce poor mileage.but it'll run..And buy ' Diesel ultra,' or "premium" Lately there has been more availability of U.L.S.D. Look for stations that have it. I like to use B.P Premium, and Shell Ultra.I have had good results from this.And don't cheap out "fill her up full", not just a few gallons and expect instant results.Oh especially in the winter use fuel additives for diesel fuel.I have found best results with power service cetane improver, they even have water eliminator now as well.also I believe in stanadyne products .I think they are the best. The engine won't smoke as much,and water is -bad-bad for mileage.Most gas stations don't drain their fuel tanks, so you may be pumping 15% water into your tank.Additives help mileage in this case. I also believe in an upper cylinder additives like lucas formula.fuel pumps are very expensive if you don't take care of lubricating them.besides she runs smoother in the winter when I use this stuff.
Break in period ..this will suck the fuel until she is broke in .This will last till about 40,000 miles. Diesel have High compression piston rings that need to wear in and seat.
Also regular oil changes. Use the mobile 1 suggested 0W40 oil from the dealer , unless you can find it elswhere cheaper.I usually change mine just before along trip ,or every 4000 miles until she's broken in.. This is a big one.People here are reluctant to change their oil as it is a big cost for the filter and oil.It'll run you $75.
But save you in the long run if you travel alot.Oh and city mileage is different than Hyway mileage .also in the summer you'll have better results than the winter.As the engines needs to be hot to run better.You may find an instant 2 mpg difference after an oil change.I have all synthetic fluid in my drive trane.
Another factor is tire pressure. pump your tires to 37-38 pounds.this will produce less rolling rsistance. But watch out ! the stock wranglers they put on her are crap for traction and this can be dangerous in winter weather.I have good AT tires for this purpose. Try these few suggestions and let me know how you do? I figure you'll get 26-28Mpg in no time. But if you are a mileage fanatic like ME !. Try driving 55mph in cruise for week in front of a tractor trailer .Be sure to bring her up to 65mpg then put it in cruise,and "decel" till you hit 55mpg. and watch you mileage go up. just don't be in hurry anywhere, and you'll save. I always leave 10 minutes early for work , because I know I am saving one way or another. I have been getting consistantly 31mpg. Good luck and good cruising..be safe..
I think I'll change my name to "mileage NUT" ...lightnin..
i have to agree that the person getting 23mpg has a problem. i live in washington state and on highways at about 65 near sea level i am getting over 30mpg. i haven't used any special diesel or additives. my engine is using synthetic oil. i have about 24k miles on the car and have gotten this kind of mileage for most of the last year.
i don't know what to suggest, but some kind of checklist for possible problem areas seems to be justified.
But I have experimented with lower speeds to no avail. I've got 55k on it, so it should be broken in. My fuel is Conoco-Phillips or truck stops. I've used Power Stroke with no noticeable improvement. Fuel filter is reasonably fresh, use 5w40 Rotella, tires inflated to 38psi, had an EGR replacement and all the recalls.At $3.30 a gal. I would love to see 26 plus mpg.
The only thing I can think of is a performance chip.
glad you replied. I am sure there is alot of factors why your stuck at the 26mpg mark.
lets deduce what could help you here.
I will start with factor that can be easily changed .
When was the last time you had an oil change? I would try the mobile 1 0W40.
If your at the 4000 miles your due to get it changed. this will help internal resistances.
How about the tranny,and transfer case,differentials fluids , all changed to synthetic??
Break in fluids have a tendency to collect metal shavings which plugs filters and other bad bad stuff. including giving you -2mpg.
What kind of tires you have on her? Aggressive treads would also do this but thats understandable as it is winter.you want to be safe.
How about using the plug in oil heater at night time. This will help you save mileage as well.
Drive in Cruise on the hyway. Bring it up to 70mph .
Then set the cruise on,
next , use the decel button to drop your speed to 55mph
as your doing this , it should stay in 5th gear, and drop your rpm's to 1700-1800. you'll be idling down the road.
It'll seem slow , but I know I am saving in this matter.When your going faster this kicks in the turbo and it sucks the fuel.
Also about the fuel now..
If you are only buying regular diesel, this may be the reason.
She'll run better on U.L.S.D. or the premium brand diesel fuel.
there are 2 types on the market now.
look for stations that carry it.
you want the highest "cetane" fuel you can get.This helps build heat in the engine.
A hot engine performs better than a cold one.
Cetane is octane for diesel.most regular runs at about 45, premium is 50 -52,with the premium fuel, add a good dose of power service cetane improver , with lucas formula or a water eliminator, I have gotten great results from this combination.
Or if you can get Stanadyne products that is even better.Their performance formula is great.
Our worst enemy for mileage is water in the fuel.We will take a hit in the winter monthes, because of the water content in the fuel from condensation and reluctance for gas stations to drain off the water in the tanks.which is usually around 15% ,
Thats why you don't want to run empty on her in the winter.Water sits in the bottom of the tank. and can freeze your fuel lines.
The concept is that a diesel gives best performance when "HOT" , water takes the heat away, as it is being atomized with the fuel into the cylinder chamber.
As we all know the fuel/mist water is compressed and heat is created , and then the explosion, but this is dampered slightly as the water take this energy and turns into steam. so there is a loss there.
In a Diesel... fuel is everything.
If you put garbage in ,you get garbage performance out.
Use premium fuel like shell, ultra diesel, B.P Premium.Look for the tags on the pumps. Citgo #1 & 2 , some stations are already carrying U.L.S.D fuel and advertise it.
This puppy was designed for it.not the dirty stuff we got as regular.
This can be countered by a regular dose every fill up of conditioners.
fuel conditioners, like Kleen Flo,or power service 911 "red bottle" for water elimination .and anti gelling ,plus injector cleaner.very important.
Use this every fill up.
In cold weather The fuel has a tendency to gel up like jello "waxing" this plugs up injectors and fuel filters, which gives poor performance as this starves the engine for power, and smokes alot. Using Lucas formulas or an injector cleaner for diesel, plus cetane improver fuel stabilizer will help deter this.
And watch out for cheap fuels as this may have been sitting for a couple of monthes and is stale fuel.Which give poor performance.
Lets try this first. lets talk in a couple of weeks and let me know how you do.
Peace Lightnin...