Jeep Liberty Diesel

arvman

After the f37 I had an issue with the O/D shift solenoid.Got fixed then a week later threw the same code.come to find out the wiring was damaged during f37 or solenoid repair.they found it in no time and had the truck back same day.nice to see mech's that look beyond the computer and check some basics.truck has been great since.hopefully the last of any malor woes but I was gettin pretty cranky with the rig.It did act up more in damp condititons some maybe it was an intermittent ground.I believe the issue was on the right side of the tranny,cheers...

05crdjeep

I filled the tank the last week of October and left for a three week vacation to London, Dresden and Berlin and my Jeep sat in the garage. Came back and the Jeep started and ran fine for two days of use, I used my other car over Thanksgiving so it sat again and then Tuesday morning woke up to a temperature of 3F. Yikes.

The beast started immediately but on a 70 mile trip it smoked heavily on acceleration. Mileage dropped from 23 to 18 on the overhead display. It still smokes a lot when I step on it.

I can't tell if it might be EGR (no code thrown) or perhaps the fuel isn't as winterized as it should be. I have had no loss of power, no shudder or roughness. I feel sorry for those behind me on the entrance ramp. What gives?

caribou1

I believe you are cleaning the tail pipe and the catalyser. Mine does this without producing visible smoke, it's just the headlights of the following cars that become psychedelic
Some call this light diffraction...

zachinmi

Caribou, as far as I know the 05-06 CRD sold in the US doesn't have any sort of catalyst or DPF in the exhaust system. Those came in with 07+ diesels in the US and are part of the reason the CRD had to be discontinued here.

I regularly found that I would get clouds of smoke on hard acceleration after several dozen miles light throttle (highway or city). The problem was bigger with LSD than with ULSD. ULSD with a higher cetane rating, or B20 fuel, greatly reduced the issue.

nescosmo

Zac..... I think your are wrong; I replaced the muffler with a Dynomax 19392 and there is a catalytic converter inside looks like a honey comb and it stay clean all the time, no sod.

caribou1

Nescosmo, what improvement did the Dynomax bring to you?

zachinmi

Nescosmo - interesting. I never took apart the exhaust system so I don't know, but I didn't think any diesel sold in the US before the MY07 had a DPF or any other sort of exhaust catalyst. Not legally required, so why do it? I understand that DPFs have been used in europe for several years longer.

05crdjeep

I ran the tank down to half and refilled at my favorite station and added some PowerService additive (it raises Cetane but isn't that awful "Diesel 911" stuff, just the regular additive) and I have much less smoke. It is 5F here this morning. Started after 5 turns of the starter and fired right up even though I didn't plug it in. Smoking was minimal at these temps.

I had the muffler replaced within a week of it being new and I vaguely remember the dealer telling me it had a catalyst of some sort in it. I ripped it off on a rock and then it rattled. They kindly replaced it under warranty even though it was quite clear I'd not been anywhere near a highway in awhile!

I had an EGR at 18000 and now I have 39000 and I keep waiting for the thing to gunk up again or break or something. So when I see smoke I think the sky is falling. Thanks for the feedback.

Cars following me think I coughed up some "squid ink" to get them off my tail. Oh well.

nescosmo

Caribou1.... It is faster and to get were I want did not have to floor the pedal, it is smoother and when I install it the first time after it warm up, took it to the expressway and floor it , The cloud of smoke was so big that the CRD said: THANK YOU TO LET ME BREATH FREELY.
That was the improvement it brought. (mileage increase about 2.)

bmartinpe

Anyone have a suggestion on changing out a glow plug? This will be my third glow plug change out in 39,000 miles. The dealer wants $250 to change out a $50 part. My independent mechanic wants about $130 ( he's pricing the glow plug at $60 for the part). How much stuff do I have to wade through to do it myself? Are there any access issues I need to be aware of, or do I unbolt and bolt stuff back on?

By the way, we just replaced the EGR for the seventh time, on Chrysler's dime.

caribou1

I would suggest you look for the cause of so many failures instead of replacing glow plugs that normally last 100,000 miles. As for the EGR, ...

gsitek

when this car sits for 3 to 5 days it has to be jumped to get started, the battery seems to go dead and if i drive it daily no problem,what gives gary

zachinmi

Have you had the recall done for glowplug durability? Definitely want it done if not. I had no failures of glowplugs and parked outside in two cold Michigan winters.

I would consider having the dealer do it, indicate you consider it a warranty item regardless of what they think, have that noted on the receipt, and then take it up with Chrysler's customer service. If no luck, sue them. DCX made a :lemon: and I don't miss mine. I realize not everyone is in a position to take the multi-thousand-dollar loss I did on getting rid of mine, but for me it was worth it.

As for the EGR - well, ditto, or disconnect it if you're going to keep the CRD long term. Obviously the EGR system is a source of problems and is unreliable itself. Part of the reason I quickly traded mine at 35,600 miles was not wanting to get stuck with another EGR replacement past warranty.

I'm still waiting and watching hopefully for the class-action against DCX for this test-market experimental vehicle.

zachinmi

The battery rundown in 3-5 days is not a problem I've seen reported here or on other Jeep forums. I suspect that either your battery is defective or you have a short. Is the battery and engine compartment clean? Grease trails on the battery or near terminals and connections can cause shorts. If that's not it, I have heard that these redtop batteries are often defective despite the price and reputation they have.

sequimgary

We bought our 2005 CRD new and have put 45,000 miles on it, thankfully without the problems experienced by some of you. But something new is happening and I'm wondering if it's a symptom that may lead to trouble. We've done a lot of long-distance driving lately and I've noticed that fuel blows out around the filler cap when we're driving. I finally put on a new cap. Fuel still blows out and dribbles down the side of the car. That would seem to be an issue of too much pressure in the fuel system, or two faulty caps in a row. Not sure which. We run ULSD on the road and B100 at home or when we can find it away from home.

Mileage until recently was 22 or so around town and up to 33 on the highway, when driving 70-75 mph (even on B100!). Lately, mileage on the road has dropped to 28. We put new Bridgestone Alenza Dueler tires on about the time mileage dropped, so I think it is partially a matter of needing a little more air in the tires. The tire store put in 32 pounds. More importantly, today I cleaned the boost sensor for the first time; it was a mess.

Still, I wonder about the fuel exiting from around the filler cap when driving. Anyone have an idea of what might be causing this issue?

siberia

I read that when a diesel engine is cranked while glow plugs are being heated and ignition occurs while the glow plugs are still on, the plugs can overheat and fail early. I also read that there is a starter interlock that prevents the starter from working on the CRD when the glow plugs are on. My CRD will crank immediately while the glow plug light is on and that may have happened a few times causing an early failure. Maybe someone else can verify this?

Anyway, glow plugs are no harder to change than spark plugs once you get to them. The serpentine belt needs to be released and the alternator removed to get at the front plug. The fuel filter assy needs to be removed to get at the rear plug and it looks like the EGR flow control valve needs to be removed from the intake manifold to get at the middle two plugs.

You can unplug the glow plug harness and test all four glow plugs at the plug-in with an ohm meter. A new glow plug measures 1.1 ohm and a bad plug is open. Problem is, it is difficult to tell at the plug-in which glow plug you are testing. A properly shaped 10 mm deep well socket will work while some deep wells will not let the glow plug go deep enough into the socket. The glow plug that I replaced came out clean with no anti seize on the threads and I put the new one in clean (my friend who has a TDI says that is correct). I used a quarter-inch-drive ratchet to tighten the new plug. It did not take much torque to tighten it properly. The plug end that attaches the electrical wire to the end of the glow plug pulls straight off with a good finger grip and good pull. You can find CRD glow plugs on the internet now for $32 + shipping, maybe lower.

zachinmi

My CRD would crank and start up when the glowplug light was on, but it would start rougher and kind of stumble initially if I did this. Needless to say I tried hard not to do this. Not sure if there was an interlock or not; it would be quite possible for the computer to shut glowplugs off immediately when the starter is cranked, if that was written into the software.

buckeyedisldog

Hi gsitek. On my 06 CRD I had a similar issue though battery would barely turn the starter over then need jumping. No real predictability other than it was starting to get colder outside. Happened once then 3 weeks later even after daily drive. Service manager said they had to update the BCM with a reflash. Hope this helps.

caribou1

Buckeyedisldog, I think the battery cannot survive overnight delivering 5 Amps continuously when its cold. I would see the fuel heater as a possible 'hidden' candidate. Bulbs are visible, solenoids draw little current and glow plugs would drain the battery in 3 hours when it's cold meaning that the battery would need jumping during the day.

buckeyedisldog

Greetings caribou1
Thanks for the insight.
I will need to use it as this AM I again had the slow turnover and then click click click of what seems like a battery death. Also all lights in the instrument cluster come on after starter stops turning over & starts clicking.
This time I didn't need to jump-start it. Instead, I removed the key from ignition reinserted it, then turned the ignition counter then clockwise and it started right up though with much white smoke from previous start attempt I guess. Last week the Tec checked the entire charging system & battery and gave me the print out stating a clean bill of health.

buckeyedisldog

I wonder how many amps the European counterpart CRD batteries have?

caribou1

I have the expensive red top battery where the 6 elements are rolled, forgot the make
If you're really stuck, disconnect the battery negative lug overnight. You will loose the radio memory but at least you will start. If you disconnect the battery and still loose charge then you may have metallic residue in the bottom of an element. In this case the bottom of the battery feels warmer than the rest.
You always have to isolate possible causes to protect your wallet
I once had a broken contact inside a Toyota battery element: sometimes it would take charge, sometimes not
I'm going into my 5th winter with the original battery and glowplugs. I tend to wait a few seconds after the glow plug indicator lamp turns off, then I start the engine. I read that these glow plugs had two heating cycles: they glow rapidly to temperature and then stay at temperature using less current until the engine reaches a "smooth running condition". You can't burn them anymore.

synlubes

i have sold the six pack red top battery for over ten years most last at least eight years the do not corode or shorten out like regular batterys if you unhook it and the does not go down over night it is probably ok you can also run it upside down with no problem

siberia

I test all my batteries just before winter. My almost 3-year old red top stabilizes at a little over 900 amp a 60 F.

caribou1

Ordinary batteries have stacked (sandwiched) plates that separate under intense current demand. Once the distance between plates has increased, lead oxide forms onto both plates (instead of on only one plate) and then they cannot provide the necessary current any more.
40 years ago I had a battery (made by Oerlikon) that was sealed with tar; I took it to the company to have my elements replaced. After 4 hours it was rebuilt and re charged
The red top batteries are made with rolled plates; under intense load the plates squeeze themselves instead of separating. This is why they last longer and to my opinion are worth the money for those who live in cold regions.

siberia

It might be helpful to know what the battery tested when it was new. I think it was 950 amps but I cannot find my battery data sheet.

siberia

Still, I wonder about the fuel exiting from around the filler cap when driving. Anyone have an idea of what might be causing this issue?

Sequimgary,

Once I filled up next to a pump where the Jeep faced down hill and leaned away from the pump much more than usual. I later noticed fuel stains trailing down and away from the filler cap/door (so it was over filled). Your probably already know that cold fuel from underground can expand in a warmer tank, hence there is an area at the top of the fuel tank that never fills completely to allow for expansion.

I looked underneath and there is a small line that appears to come from the top of the fuel tank that attaches to the filler hose and ends short of the filler door area a few inches below. There is a cap or device on the end of the hose. Is this a one-way valve that allows air to be slowly drawn into the tank as the tank is emptied by the sealed fuel system? Is your valve (if it is a valve) not sealing and letting your tank overfill every time you fill up? Can someone with a manual look this up?

mdamick

I put my meter on the glowplugs last week.
They light off at a higher voltage and then drop down about 1.5V after the light goes off.
With this I found that I let it sit about 10 seconds after the light goes out and then it starts just fine, today at 3F.
If I try to follow the light it starts but belches smoke and dies.

caribou1

I think you are doing 2 glow cycles this way. When it's freezing cold the battery looses about 30% of it's efficiency. When the first glow cycle is being done this warms the battery just enough for it to recover a condition where more current becomes immediately available.
A Danish joke says that to warm up during the winter, a man can always urinate in his pants. But this is of very short effect, like the first glow cycle

mdamick

That's possible, but when I did the test it was not that cold, around 13F.
The meter dropped when the light went out so I think the PCM cuts the power down after initial heat up.
I think that DC programmed the light short so people would not complain about the "long time" it takes to preheat the cylinders. With the wait after the light goes out it starts the way it should.
My pickup heats for a lot longer time than the Jeep and it starts just fine.

sequimgary

Thank you. I'll do some research on the hose and what's on the end of it. Maybe our friendly local Jeep CRD specialist will look it up for me.

caribou1

A long time ago MB used a real glowing wire as an indicator on the dashboard. If you couldn't see nor feel the warmth of the glow you had no glow in the precombustion chambers. I guess this is where the symbol we use today came from.
You had to use both hands to feel the heat on one side and and start the engine on the opposite side of the steering. The driver would decide when to start, keeping the glowplugs lit according to his experience. It was simple and efficient.

mdamick

Unfortunately, simple has gone the way of the dodo.
With computer power we have now, everything goes through it even simple things like the dome lights.
Also, unfortunately, the programming and updates are so secretive the owner can't make changes in the way the vehicles operate to tweak it to our desires.
It is possible, they just won't let us have it.

caribou1

Mdamick, I rewired a few vehicles in the past. There's not much to it. The hardest for me was to get the battery light dim with charge
If you can get hold of an early CRD controller (like mine) you will be closer to heaven.
In the worst case, you don't need dome lights

synlubes

what year is your crd thought of you today spent the whole day pulling hedge and locust trees out of the timber with my crd it did great bought a new log splitter and had to try it fist work the crd has done but it did great

mdamick

I have rewired every vehicle I have ever owned including the CRD.
I would just like to be able to tweak the computer for transmission shift points, lockup rpm and other little things. This would be much easier than running cables here & there to do things the computer will already do.

caribou1

Synlubes, mine is a MY 2003.

Were your trees as big as mine?
http://richard.fortin.free.fr/KJ_diesel/log1.JPG
http://richard.fortin.free.fr/KJ_diesel/log2.JPG
http://richard.fortin.free.fr/KJ_diesel/log3.JPG
http://richard.fortin.free.fr/KJ_diesel/log4.JPG
http://richard.fortin.free.fr/KJ_diesel/log5.JPG

Most people said I was just kidding when they saw the pile
http://richard.fortin.free.fr/KJ_diesel/log6.JPG
http://richard.fortin.free.fr/KJ_diesel/log7.JPG

caribou1

Mdamick, here is the only relevant information I found to improve the shifting:
http://enginebalancers.com/Base/files/Catalog/TCINewProductsBrochure.pdf

nescosmo

Caribou1... I thought that you were older I would say 67.
You have a lot of work to do there, but let me tell you I do like city life, to me Winn Dixie, Public, home town coffee shop,Popeye Chicken and ABC liquor store have to be close by. My father use to said " The country is for the birds". no offence, my mother use to love the country side. Your house look big and very well build. Give us some pic after you finish.

Nescosmo.

caribou1

Nescosmo, I'm not on the picture, it's the children's house and I only manoeuvred the work horse that day :P

Look at the treatment the BFGs are getting here:
http://richard.fortin.free.fr/KJ_diesel/log4.JPG
I had bark inserted between the inside of the rim and the tire wall. You may notice I pull backwards because I have better visual control. The 3:1 reverse gear ratio is wonderful in this case. I was in LOW gear all the time. If you pull going forward and the load hits an obstacle then you just fly into the wind shield because the Jeep is a feather compared to the rest.

Great thing about being a grandfather: I quit when I decide :shades:

synlubes

crd looks just like mine only liberty instead of cheroke timber about the same cant tell for sure my trees are about twenty five feet tall and about fourteen inches around i split them in four pieces my fireplace is a patent of of a wood furnace heats out of convection tubes up the wall about twelve feet not out the front but you can have the doors open to view fire

synlubes

Richard your saw looks just like mine it is a still 250 easy start

caribou1

Synlubes, the man on the picture is a professional lumberjack

synlubes

are you the guy in the crd lost your email dont no how to find it does your crd have the egr valve like ares i haven't had any trouble now for almost twenty thousand miles have a nice day

nescosmo

Caribou1...I bought the competitor, I should bought the BFG.
Now here in the other side of the hemisphere we are wandering how you look like; I did not do it you did, so please could you include yourself in the next round of picture

nescosmo

If you want to stock some of those sensor in case they fail well it use to be about 40.00 to 43.00 dollars; Well they change the part # and the price, now is 84.00 to 90.00. That is what happen when you change oweners; And we thought that DCX was bad.\\

Old P#5140331AA
New P#68031593AA

Nescosmo.

Karen_S

A reporter seeks consumers who drive diesel vehicles. Please send your daytime contact information to ctalati@edmunds.com no later than Tuesday, December 11, 2007.

leejrfla

I am in the lemon law process in Florida with my 06 CRD due to a transmission shudder that they cant seem to repair. The dealer had had 9 attempts to repair the problem with no solution. What was the major issue with your CRD that prompted the buyback?

storageguy

mdamick did you do the transmission recall? I understand the torque cpnvertor is replaced. This helped my CRD 06 quite a lot. I am not experiencing some of the shudder problems mentioned by others, perhaps because I am driving at a little above 2000 rpm and it seems the shudder for many is happening just under 2000.I have 33,000 miles on it now.

nescosmo

Leejffla.... There is a solution to your tranny issue, it cust money but there is a solution.
#1 you have to install a suncoast tc.
#2 replace the shifter with the TranGo shifter
#3 If you want you could replace the tranny oil pump with the new one that they have.
#4Do the InMotion ECM reprograming if you want.
If some shop do it for you all of that with labor could cust you arround 1500 to 2000.00 dollars. That is what it takes to have a tranny that will last you 500k of life.
If you want something done right do it yourself and forget the dealer, the old DCX did it to all of us but I want to keep the vehicle because is made to last, just they put poor quality parts.
Don't give up your CRD you will be sorry in the future, it is a vehicle that keep it value with all of its issues.

Nescosmo.