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The beast started immediately but on a 70 mile trip it smoked heavily on acceleration. Mileage dropped from 23 to 18 on the overhead display. It still smokes a lot when I step on it.
I can't tell if it might be EGR (no code thrown) or perhaps the fuel isn't as winterized as it should be. I have had no loss of power, no shudder or roughness. I feel sorry for those behind me on the entrance ramp. What gives?
Some call this light diffraction...
I regularly found that I would get clouds of smoke on hard acceleration after several dozen miles light throttle (highway or city). The problem was bigger with LSD than with ULSD. ULSD with a higher cetane rating, or B20 fuel, greatly reduced the issue.
I had the muffler replaced within a week of it being new and I vaguely remember the dealer telling me it had a catalyst of some sort in it. I ripped it off on a rock and then it rattled. They kindly replaced it under warranty even though it was quite clear I'd not been anywhere near a highway in awhile!
I had an EGR at 18000 and now I have 39000 and I keep waiting for the thing to gunk up again or break or something. So when I see smoke I think the sky is falling. Thanks for the feedback.
Cars following me think I coughed up some "squid ink" to get them off my tail. Oh well.
That was the improvement it brought. (mileage increase about 2.)
By the way, we just replaced the EGR for the seventh time, on Chrysler's dime.
I would consider having the dealer do it, indicate you consider it a warranty item regardless of what they think, have that noted on the receipt, and then take it up with Chrysler's customer service. If no luck, sue them. DCX made a :lemon: and I don't miss mine. I realize not everyone is in a position to take the multi-thousand-dollar loss I did on getting rid of mine, but for me it was worth it.
As for the EGR - well, ditto, or disconnect it if you're going to keep the CRD long term. Obviously the EGR system is a source of problems and is unreliable itself. Part of the reason I quickly traded mine at 35,600 miles was not wanting to get stuck with another EGR replacement past warranty.
I'm still waiting and watching hopefully for the class-action against DCX for this test-market experimental vehicle.
Mileage until recently was 22 or so around town and up to 33 on the highway, when driving 70-75 mph (even on B100!). Lately, mileage on the road has dropped to 28. We put new Bridgestone Alenza Dueler tires on about the time mileage dropped, so I think it is partially a matter of needing a little more air in the tires. The tire store put in 32 pounds. More importantly, today I cleaned the boost sensor for the first time; it was a mess.
Still, I wonder about the fuel exiting from around the filler cap when driving. Anyone have an idea of what might be causing this issue?
Anyway, glow plugs are no harder to change than spark plugs once you get to them. The serpentine belt needs to be released and the alternator removed to get at the front plug. The fuel filter assy needs to be removed to get at the rear plug and it looks like the EGR flow control valve needs to be removed from the intake manifold to get at the middle two plugs.
You can unplug the glow plug harness and test all four glow plugs at the plug-in with an ohm meter. A new glow plug measures 1.1 ohm and a bad plug is open. Problem is, it is difficult to tell at the plug-in which glow plug you are testing. A properly shaped 10 mm deep well socket will work while some deep wells will not let the glow plug go deep enough into the socket. The glow plug that I replaced came out clean with no anti seize on the threads and I put the new one in clean (my friend who has a TDI says that is correct). I used a quarter-inch-drive ratchet to tighten the new plug. It did not take much torque to tighten it properly. The plug end that attaches the electrical wire to the end of the glow plug pulls straight off with a good finger grip and good pull. You can find CRD glow plugs on the internet now for $32 + shipping, maybe lower.
Thanks for the insight.
I will need to use it as this AM I again had the slow turnover and then click click click of what seems like a battery death. Also all lights in the instrument cluster come on after starter stops turning over & starts clicking.
This time I didn't need to jump-start it. Instead, I removed the key from ignition reinserted it, then turned the ignition counter then clockwise and it started right up though with much white smoke from previous start attempt I guess. Last week the Tec checked the entire charging system & battery and gave me the print out stating a clean bill of health.
If you're really stuck, disconnect the battery negative lug overnight. You will loose the radio memory but at least you will start. If you disconnect the battery and still loose charge then you may have metallic residue in the bottom of an element. In this case the bottom of the battery feels warmer than the rest.
You always have to isolate possible causes to protect your wallet
I once had a broken contact inside a Toyota battery element: sometimes it would take charge, sometimes not
I'm going into my 5th winter with the original battery and glowplugs. I tend to wait a few seconds after the glow plug indicator lamp turns off, then I start the engine. I read that these glow plugs had two heating cycles: they glow rapidly to temperature and then stay at temperature using less current until the engine reaches a "smooth running condition". You can't burn them anymore.
40 years ago I had a battery (made by Oerlikon) that was sealed with tar; I took it to the company to have my elements replaced. After 4 hours it was rebuilt and re charged
The red top batteries are made with rolled plates; under intense load the plates squeeze themselves instead of separating. This is why they last longer and to my opinion are worth the money for those who live in cold regions.
Sequimgary,
Once I filled up next to a pump where the Jeep faced down hill and leaned away from the pump much more than usual. I later noticed fuel stains trailing down and away from the filler cap/door (so it was over filled). Your probably already know that cold fuel from underground can expand in a warmer tank, hence there is an area at the top of the fuel tank that never fills completely to allow for expansion.
I looked underneath and there is a small line that appears to come from the top of the fuel tank that attaches to the filler hose and ends short of the filler door area a few inches below. There is a cap or device on the end of the hose. Is this a one-way valve that allows air to be slowly drawn into the tank as the tank is emptied by the sealed fuel system? Is your valve (if it is a valve) not sealing and letting your tank overfill every time you fill up? Can someone with a manual look this up?
They light off at a higher voltage and then drop down about 1.5V after the light goes off.
With this I found that I let it sit about 10 seconds after the light goes out and then it starts just fine, today at 3F.
If I try to follow the light it starts but belches smoke and dies.
A Danish joke says that to warm up during the winter, a man can always urinate in his pants. But this is of very short effect, like the first glow cycle
The meter dropped when the light went out so I think the PCM cuts the power down after initial heat up.
I think that DC programmed the light short so people would not complain about the "long time" it takes to preheat the cylinders. With the wait after the light goes out it starts the way it should.
My pickup heats for a lot longer time than the Jeep and it starts just fine.
You had to use both hands to feel the heat on one side and and start the engine on the opposite side of the steering. The driver would decide when to start, keeping the glowplugs lit according to his experience. It was simple and efficient.
With computer power we have now, everything goes through it even simple things like the dome lights.
Also, unfortunately, the programming and updates are so secretive the owner can't make changes in the way the vehicles operate to tweak it to our desires.
It is possible, they just won't let us have it.
If you can get hold of an early CRD controller (like mine) you will be closer to heaven.
In the worst case, you don't need dome lights
I would just like to be able to tweak the computer for transmission shift points, lockup rpm and other little things. This would be much easier than running cables here & there to do things the computer will already do.
Were your trees as big as mine?
http://richard.fortin.free.fr/KJ_diesel/log1.JPG
http://richard.fortin.free.fr/KJ_diesel/log2.JPG
http://richard.fortin.free.fr/KJ_diesel/log3.JPG
http://richard.fortin.free.fr/KJ_diesel/log4.JPG
http://richard.fortin.free.fr/KJ_diesel/log5.JPG
Most people said I was just kidding when they saw the pile
http://richard.fortin.free.fr/KJ_diesel/log6.JPG
http://richard.fortin.free.fr/KJ_diesel/log7.JPG
http://enginebalancers.com/Base/files/Catalog/TCINewProductsBrochure.pdf
You have a lot of work to do there, but let me tell you I do like city life, to me Winn Dixie, Public, home town coffee shop,Popeye Chicken and ABC liquor store have to be close by. My father use to said " The country is for the birds". no offence, my mother use to love the country side. Your house look big and very well build. Give us some pic after you finish.
Nescosmo.
Look at the treatment the BFGs are getting here:
http://richard.fortin.free.fr/KJ_diesel/log4.JPG
I had bark inserted between the inside of the rim and the tire wall. You may notice I pull backwards because I have better visual control. The 3:1 reverse gear ratio is wonderful in this case. I was in LOW gear all the time. If you pull going forward and the load hits an obstacle then you just fly into the wind shield because the Jeep is a feather compared to the rest.
Great thing about being a grandfather: I quit when I decide :shades:
Now here in the other side of the hemisphere we are wandering how you look like; I did not do it you did, so please could you include yourself in the next round of picture
Old P#5140331AA
New P#68031593AA
Nescosmo.
#1 you have to install a suncoast tc.
#2 replace the shifter with the TranGo shifter
#3 If you want you could replace the tranny oil pump with the new one that they have.
#4Do the InMotion ECM reprograming if you want.
If some shop do it for you all of that with labor could cust you arround 1500 to 2000.00 dollars. That is what it takes to have a tranny that will last you 500k of life.
If you want something done right do it yourself and forget the dealer, the old DCX did it to all of us but I want to keep the vehicle because is made to last, just they put poor quality parts.
Don't give up your CRD you will be sorry in the future, it is a vehicle that keep it value with all of its issues.
Nescosmo.