Jeep Liberty Diesel

butchman

I have had similar experience as vtdog and teitsma. I bought 2005 CRD new and got the recalls done. Switched to BF Goodrich tires at 40K. The orange malfunction light (emissions) illuminated at 45K and sure enough it indicates "low EGR flow". Meaning there is a little gunk in the return line. Learned that the VM engine is a good one, but that the closed case ventilation system that manufacturers must add in the U.S. to models that qualify as passenger vehicles is what these little European diesels are not used to. After a lot of thought, determined that if the EGR does not flow - that is not going to hurt the engine or components. So, I lived with the light and the little brut ran on. It has been cold here and snowing so I have been using cetane additive to prevent fuel geling. At 55K, my light has went out! Cracked me up. Wonder if over time the cetane cleaned it up?

On another note, I did make one bad goof. The oil plug has a gasket. Don't ever install the oil plug without that gasket. The plug seals itself to the pan - too well. You will spend a long time figuring out how to get that soft drain plug back off again!

Glad to hear that there are other folks out there that are having good results with their CRD. I drive 80 miles a day round trip and it has never let me down yet.

lightnin3

When towing , it states in the manual to drive with the O.D off, thats the little button on the side of the shifter. This dissingages the overdrive , you'll have to slow down a bit when shifting to this "tow mode" I only use it in the hilly regions.
Even though I find it hard to believe that this "mini muscle " would labor at 3000lbs.It may have something to do with the torque converter,and the gear ratio of the "5th" gear" maybe it was designed for economy, and fourth was the towing gear.
When you push the button you'll also notice your RPM's jump up. This is because it is shifting back to 4th gear.
This may help the engine from laboring when towing uphill.just lower you speed before you do so. If your doing 75mph it could be dangerous for the engine to run at such a high RPM.
Unless of course you want to drive 75 with a trailer?
I have seen this before on the hyway, with Dodge Rams and house trailers.
Once I found it in the ditch when it past me in snowy weather.
..Lightnin..

teitsma

Believe me, I am very familiar with the little button on the side. Last fall coming up through the Ozarks I learned to gauge which hills I had to downshift, and which would make it over the top. If it downshifted it wwould drop 2 gears, which meant it was at high RPM's, then quickly upshift. Seems odd it doesn't just drop 1 gear. I love this vehicle, it wasn't till I started reading this list that I started worrying about all the things going wrong.

Homer

lightnin3

Oh I wouldn't worry too much .It's like any car , there is things that breakdown over time.
the egr doesn't do anything to the operation of the vehicle.It's just an irritant.
If you stick to the High cetane fuels, instead of regular then you'll probably find she'll perform better , especially when towing.
The only thing I would worry about is fuel line freeze up, and the battery dying in this cold. Plug her in when it drops below 40 degrees.

bad fuel..Stick with franchises, not independants you'll always get fresh fuel from them.they go through alot more fuel than a corner store type station.
But I wouldn't worry still about old fuel freeze up , it'll just produce poor performance and poor mileage, compared to the fresh stuff.
We have to treat this puppy like a European sports car. it is intricate, and needs care .It is a high performance machine and needs maintenance to be reliable and perform at the efficiency it was designed for. In Europe they have had clean high cetane diesel fuels for years . Here we are just starting to get it at the gas stations.

This engine was design to run on "High test, high cetane, ultra low sulfer fuel", not the dirty junk we see coming from the Texas ,and Canadian oil fields.
That is why I use the Cetane improving additives. Cetane helps the fuel burn hotter and therefore runs more efficiently .
If I knew I was going on a trip, and towing..I would fill up with a premium fuel and dump a bottle of power service in.
I have never had problems from doing this.
In fact I think it helped my performance and mileage.That is why I post my findings.

With a diesel it may seem like at first there is alot to worry about but once you have a system down, she'll be worry free, and perform better than any gas engine counterpart. at least you don't have to worry about tune ups and ignition wires.

Besides alot of gas engines have the same vulnerabilities as these puppies do. I think most of us weren't educated in these disciplines as mechanics are.It is also a way of life we haven't really seen here as diesel is very popular in other parts of the world except North America.

Like a gas/diesel engine fuel lines will freeze because of condensation build up in our fuel tanks and from water in the tanks at the station being pumped in .It is because of the hot /cold transition in the winter monthes that causes water build up , then ice that plugs the flow of fuel.
the chance for not starting. and poor mileage , come about.
But keeping these additives handy ,maybe a bottle "unopened" under the seat for emergencies is handy.for freeze ups.
My buddy had his fuel lines freeze up on him, and all he did was dump a quart of this stuff in the tank and waited an hour and she started. this stuff really works !
But if you put 10 ounces in every fill up religiously , then it is worry free.
I always keep a stock of methyl hydrate in the garage.There are many products on the market.You want to keep water out of the fuel system, even though it has a water seperator in the fuel filter , it is not infalible.
I use Kleen flo ,or power service 911 additives when I come across it on the shelf , I pick one up.
This is mainly a water eliminator. sometimes you can come across no name brand methyl hydrate. this is fine as well, although it won't have the upper cylinder lubricant in it for the fuel pump.
That is important as well,without this additive for a couple of years and POP !.. as I have seen the fuel pumps go on the rams and it can be an expensive venture. these are around a $2000 part. Since they are a high pressure pump compared to the gas pumps.
So it makes sense to be conscientious about using additives.it is like changing oil. With diesels' fuel is everything.

Just make sure you get good fresh fuel,never let the tank go below 1/4 ...
plug her in , keep the tire pressure at 38 psi, and change that oil ! before a trip.

try it next time you fill up , dump a bottle of power service, cetane improver in her, and a shot of methyl hydrate., and watch your fuel mileage go up. You also notice alot better performance as well.

When you get on the hyway "in cruise" at 55mph and the engine is warmed up.
Hit the reset button on your OH console, and watch the mileage . you'll be slightly surprised. But the most gains will be on the flatlands not in the mountanous roads, but it is still better than a V8 mileage wise.can still tow a small load , which jettas can't do..
So we have the best of both worlds, if you use it right .
good luck and happy hunting ...for fuel that is...
Cheers
Lightnin...

synlubes

dont worry my crd is a 2005 had all the recalls by eighteen thousand miles now have forty thousand and no problems love it

smathews

I have a 06 Liberty CRD with 36,000 miles on it and get 18 mpg city, 23 mpg combination and 26 mpg winter 28 mpg summer highway.

I have been very pleased with the Liberty Diesel and have only had to do routine maintenace on it.

The one thing I did do was replace the original Goodyear Wrangler ST tires that I found had very poor wet and icey road performence. I got Bridgestone Dueler H/L Alenza tires and would highly reccommend them.

I have also run biodiesel mostly in the summer and the engine runs fine.

bluemule

Glad to hear some positve news out of the CRD for a change. I have a 2006 that I purchased new in May of 2006 with a build date of March 2006. I have only 8000 miles on it and have not had any problems with it. I love the low end torque, fuel mileage and like the Jeep very well overall. But with all the negatives people have said about the problems they have had I have been concerned becasue I only put about 4000 miles on it a year and only drive it once or twice a month. Mostly it just sits in the garage. What month was your 2006 built? Maybe mine was new enough to get the recalls before it was built.

All I hear are EGR problems. That one concerns me because I will not have but about 12,000 miles on mine when the 3 year warranty runs out.

Thanks for the positive note.

agresearch

I also have a 2006 CRD manufactured in March 2006. After an initial problem with the wiring harness that was replaced, I have not had any problems and have averaged 22 + MPG in a little over 27,000 miles. The mileage ranges from 19 in town to 28 MPG on the open road.

I have had no EGR problems and I am very pleased with the vehicle.

I think that a lot of the reported electrical problems can be traced to the wiring harness issues and I was lucky to have a very observant service manager that insisted that the wiring harness be changed to correct the problem.

emp2

I have 2006 CRD recently purchased used and has only been used by me for towing a 3000 # travel trailer . In a recent 4000 mile round trip from Wi to Florida "below o in Wi to below freezing in Florida" between 65 and 70 miles an hour my mpg ranged from 14 leaving Wi. to 15 in Florida . The liberty did not seem to be even working hard at that speed and I was quiet pleased with the way it pulled . I usualy drive at 60 miles per hour when towing but the CRD would not go into final lock up in overdrive tell it hit 64 miles an hour and would drop out again at about 61 so I kept my speed over 65 .
After getting home I've taken the Jeep out by itself and have found out that pulling the trailer or empty the final lock up occurs at 64 miles an hour . Is this normal ?
Emp2

lightnin3

Hi emp2,
yes this is normal.
What I usually do is when pulling a trailer I push the little button on the side of the shifter. This disingages the overdrive gear, so you'll only have up to fourth gear . In the manual it suggest this for towing. If you drive 55 you'll save on mileage. the key to mileage on this puppy is keeping the rpm's down under 1900 on the hyway.
So when you get up to speed, set the cruise control on, and use the decel button to lower your speed to 55mph.,Whether your towing or not , you'll save.
Since she is breaking in as well , you'll take a hit on mileage, until 40K, so change that oil before any trip , it'll help.
Lightnin...

flyingpole

This is a great tip. Of course my alternator just failed when it was -40 degrees wind chill. Took the alternator off and it turned out to be the slip clutch. I have 65,000 miles. I wish it would have failed at 55k as it was warm then. I simply drilled a hole all the way through the pulley and installed a 1/4-20 bolt to keep the pulley from slipping as a temporary fix. Anyone know how to remove the pulley? There is a 10mm bolt inside the hex broach on the pulley, but I could not turn it. Being such a small bolt, I was worried I'd shear it off.

lightnin3

Flyingpole Hi Big guy..
yes I had the same thing on my '05 Libby.. I figured while they had sweated the pulley off the alternator and replace the clutch on it,I had them change the serpentine belt as well, and put on all new pulleys and belt tensioner at the same time. They were $38 a piece.I thought it no big deal to change them all out.It seems the tensioner is over tightening the belt to make it wear faster and also hard on the pulleys and their bearings. So after 50K you end up having an irritating whine and rattling ball bearing noise.
It was funny since it resonated through out the engine I thought at first it was the water pump until I used the screwdriver as a stephoscope ,and listened to the different parts of the engine and found that it was the alternator clutch bearing and serpentine belt was warn.
The belt once it is warn acts as transmitter for noise.
Now she runs quiet..and it's been 20K later..

siberia

Anyone know how to remove the pulley?

The alternator has right hand threads on the shaft. The special tools hold the alternator shaft while you remove the pulley counter clockwise. So, if you were holding the pulley and turning the shaft counter clockwise you may have been tightening it instead. The description is in the downloadable manual that was posted earlier on this forum and it supersedes my lame description.

There are 2 styles of pulleys that have slightly different tools. I ordered a new pulley but have not received it yet, so I don't know which one it is. I'm sure you can rig something up.

bigal11

I loved my '06 but unloaded it at 18,000 miles. This was after a good experience with an '02 Liberty. I have, and have had several diesel vehicles. This one was wonderful for wandering the deserts of Idaho and Utah.
My experience as follows... The stock tires are horrendous and must be changed. That was a $600 hit up front to make a Jeep do what a Jeep is made to do. I dealt with the oil change issues by doing it myself after unknowingly taking it to the dealership and taking a $101 hit. Oil and filter are about $30 otherwise.
Look at the service requirements for the differentials. Synthetic lube at very short intervals. No other vehicle I have ever seen has this unbelievable requirement. If you don't do it your warranty is toast.
The torque converter issue gave me great pause. While I had to put up with the F37 recall emasculation of my torque I could not rest knowing that my torque converter would likely fail me and I would then need to order a Suncoast unit because Chrysler had no intentions of giving us a better one. Their stance was that if it failed in your warranty period it would be replaced with the same defective unit to get you out of warranty and then you could pay them to give you another defective unit if it happened again. And because they couldn't design an adequate torque converter, I got my torque tuned down so the car takes off like a slug and they can delay failure so they won't have to pay for it.
The fuel filter head unit leaks air and repeated trips to the dealer got me new filter heads and the continued need to bleed the head unit. Again, a first for me after owning 3 Fords, 2 Duramax, a Jetta, and a New Holland tractor. Why couldn't they give me a Racor unit and be done with it? Because they want to put Bandaids on til the warranty is done and leave it to me and the aftermarket.
Then I realized that with the constant maintainence and it's expense, the unpredictability of reliability, the loss of performance, the complete lack of support from the manufacturer, and the poor financial situation of Chrysler that I might be stuck with an expensive orphan. On the other hand it might be a collectable someday. I don't care. I want a reliable, well built rig that will accomplish what I bought it for. The angst this rig was causing me was not worth the few MPG (6-8) improvement over my Tahoe. Any benefit was far lost on repairs, maintainence, and unpredictability.
Bye Bye Chrysler. I will NOT be back.

winter2

On Thursday I dropped off my 2005 CRD for the following issues.

1. The low fuel indicator never seems to work. The light on the dashboard comes on for two seconds as a test when I start. I have filled my CRD and discovered that I have had as little as 1.5 gallons of fuel in the tank.

2. Occasional shudder in top gear when going up hills. This occurs a MPH above the last or second to the last shift point and when I am accelerating up a grade. This problem occurs randomly.

3. For a while I have been having a funny noise from the inside of the CRD. It sounds like a slipping belt when I accelerate but I cannot hear it from the outside. Turns out that the tech heard a chirp at idle and that the timing belt tensioner ( I think) has failed. I will get more info on Monday or Tuesday of next week.

I am otherwise still happy with the CRD. I am driving a Dodge Nitro with the 3.7L V-6 in it. Not a bad ride, but a slug (no power).

lightnin3

Hi Al .. Hmmm... sounds like you had a lemon.
I had no where near as many problems as you did.
It also sounds like you ended up with a dealer that doesn't care about their customers.Hmm...looks like the mechanics where hurting as well..
First off... I live in Windsor, and " most " of the dealers are conscientious here.
I think we are lucky or maybe it's because of the the threat of our Chrysler Canada Call in..complaint center that the U.S. dealers don't have.they just leave you hang, with the lemon law, man I would have the manager made responsible everytime.

Thats why my brother won't get his van fixed in the U.S , he'll come to Canada first.
Is it the work ethic? , or education I don't know..Here they pay mechanicS at the dealer $60/hr..so thats incentive there, plus they send them for training on these "special diesels"
My dealer was excellent,
Any work I had done on her was done with the efficiency of a German workshop.

These boys know their stuff and they care as well @ Provincial Chrysler...
I would check out their progress even though I wasn't to be on the shop floor.

By using my savy , and getting some Tim Horton's coffee's for the boys beforehand.
and check out , if they missed the oil pan washer for the plug, or how they handled the tools.
The manager didn't have a problem with that since , this is an expensive vehicle, and not a $17k Caliber.
It's too bad you didn't live in Windsor, We would have taken care of you.
I know one thing , my Libby is very reliable at 109K now, and even in this weather she started and ran great !.
I agree , yes change those tires to some real AT's. that was the first thing I did.When I noticed the tread. I made a deal with the dealer to change my tires right away !. Canadian winters are not forgiving.

A good cheap tire for all season for this puppy would be a Sport King AT. at $75 a piece , it was a steal, and they performed well for the Winter gravel roads.
If your doing Offroading , I would suggest BF goodrich, or Goodyear Fortuna silent armor.quiet mudders. My buddy has those on his Liberty. very sticky ..

Oh ! One thing I wouldn't do is go up a size otherwise you end up rubbing on the wheel wells. unless you get the 2 inch lift kit they have at Chrysler..
Then it's possible..
Oh by the way today on the hyway my mileage,.. peaked at 34mpg..she dropped down to 26 when I started into the city at the lights.I am still getting 400 miles out of her on a tank of fuel. thats not bad for hyway /city combo driving.
When you are on the hyway put her in cruise , after the speed is stable , call up your mileage, then press the "reset button"
This engages the "instant mileage computer formula" but after a minute it reverts back to the 60 mile average, thats why all you guys are complaining.
suggeston..
After in cruise ,at 70mph, drop your speed to 55 mph with the decel using the cruise control..
using the "decel ". then press the reset on the mileage computer O/H console. and watch your mileage go up. This will give you incentive to drive slower.
or maybe when fuel peaks next summer at $4/gallon like in Canada right now.
Don't forget to plug in the core heater at night .
This will help too..
And Happy Hunting...for fuel that is...
Lightnin...
later
Lightnin...

zoomy2

I too, tow a 3000# hardside camper, but I tow in overdrive and limit my speed under 65 MPH. Trailer rated tires or ST rated tires have a 65 MPH limit. The cords can break causing the tire to separate. I use to tow between 65-70MPH with my Tahoe and had (3) of the (4) tires blowout.

Towing in overdrive running between 60-65 I get 15 - 17 MPG, When towing between 56-60 I get 20-22. If I tow in 4th the engine tempature increases so I just use overdrive and the engine just pulls along.

My CRD will go into overdrive at 59 and drops out of overdrive at 56MPH. I have an 05 built in early June.

Some CRD owners have reported in this column that 64 is the lock-up speed. I have been reading this forum for a couple of years. And have learn alot from it. My CRD has had (1) EGR valve at 31000, ball joints and the F37 recall. I have 53,000 miles on mine. The timing belt needs to be replaced at 60,000 I think (I need to check the book) but I here it takes (8) hours and at $65 /hour its going to be expensive.

zachinmi

"I loved my '06 but unloaded it at 18,000 miles. This was after a good experience with an '02 Liberty. I have, and have had several diesel vehicles. This one was ***
Then I realized that with the constant maintainence and it's expense, the unpredictability of reliability, the loss of performance, the complete lack of support from the manufacturer, and the poor financial situation of Chrysler that I might be stuck with an expensive orphan. On the other hand it might be a collectable someday. I don't care. I want a reliable, well built rig that will accomplish what I bought it for. The angst this rig was causing me was not worth the few MPG (6-8) improvement over my Tahoe. Any benefit was far lost on repairs, maintainence, and unpredictability.
Bye Bye Chrysler. I will NOT be back. "

Bigal11, I could practically have written the same thing (and if you go back to early October 2007, you'll see something pretty close). I'm amused by the boosters on here. I guess a few CRDs were made that work OK. As I've noted before, I see hardly anyone still on here who was here when I started posting upon buying my CRD - winter2 has been here the whole time, but his post below yours doesn't look all that promising! I agree with all your sentiments. I traded for a 2007 Suburban and am completely happy with it. No mechanical issues at all - in fact it hasn't been to the dealer since purchase! (I do my own oil changes.) The mpg is lower, but not as low as some might think, and when you consider the lower cost of gasoline and the reliability and peace of mind factor, you will be VERY happy you switched to a new vehicle.

Oh, I have two other diesels - a 2006 Dodge Ram/Cummins, and a 2006 John Deere utility tractor. Both work fine. Diesel itself is fine, but the CRD wasn't engineered for US use or the automatic transmission. And I won't be buying any Chrysler products in the future either, nor any Mercedes/Daimler products I think. My GM product is great, and Hondas have been reasonably good to me also. When it came out the CRD seemed like it would end a dark age for diesel in the US, but I fear it may have prolonged that dark age and perhaps made it permanent by its problems.

lightnin3

Zoomy I wouldn't worry about the timing belt. It'll be a $500 fix that isn't needed yet.
I would wait for 80K on her , save some money for the maintenance later.
When you get the serpentine belt tensioner fixed, you might as well get a new belt at the same time. This is normal wear after 65k .

It seems that the tension is set up really tight on this engine.
Because of this the belt wears prematurely, and is hard on pully gears on the compressor for the air conditioning,and alternator pulley.
I had all my pulleys and alternator replaced on the spot. My dealer was more than happy to do the warranty work.

hint: While the engine is at idle touch each conmponent with along screwdriver, and listen with the ear touch the handle.
Aircond. compressor, water pump,alternator,power steering pump..
It should be a low "sh.sh.sh.. noise" if you hear " a high whine, it needs to be changed.Thats whats causing the noise.The warn belt makes it louder.

This actually didn't affect anything on the engine , it was just an irritant, until I got it fixed.i should be good for another 65k...

My 05' Libby is at 3 yrs old now, and 109K and still going strong.
I am happy with her.I am also happy and relieved to buy into the extended warranty.
So my investment has paid off. at a $100 a week to $50/wk in fuel from my gr.cherrokee to the liberty, after 3 yrs..

Hmmm...lets see $800 ext.warranty investment + $1500 for the diesel option=$2300
Gr.Cherrokee /Ram, Chev.. Taho at 18mpg $100/wk fuel bill =$5000/ yr
Liberty savings...$30mpg $50/wk fuel bill=$2500/yr for 3 yrs = $7500 hmm..not bad ..
I can't tow a house ..or tow at 75mph,or spend more than $40k for a vehicle..
But I am happy with my investment.
Lightnin..

siberia

My 2005 owner's manual says to change the timing belt and idler pulleys at 100,000 miles (160,000 kilometers) and to inspect the engine timing belt tensioner -replace if necessary.

lightnin3

Hi Siberia..Ok so where are you at in mileage..I am at 109K Km's..I don't plan on changing my Timing belt till the 160K mark ..how about you??
I hear from my mechanic friends that it si usually the belt guides that wear and belt is usually fine.
that'll be a $500 fix.and I think she''ll be reliable enough to get me to the 160K point. I am not worried about it.

But the sepentine belt and tensioner, and all pulleys ,should be replaced at around 65-80K ..just a precaution. ..pulleys should run around $38 /piece.While you have the belt off it might be a good idea.
This is common all diesels that they are hard on serpentine belts.
Also after she is changed use a screw driver and listen to the alternator,airconditioner compressor, power steering pump,to see if any of the bearings are shot..you should hear a sh..sh..sh..sound..,
not a high pitch whine or low rumble..

The belt tensioner,puts extra pressure on these components through the belt,and may have warn the bearings prematurely.
It just make it noisier.
Lightnin...

siberia

Hi Ligntnin, I looked up the timing belt change for Zoomy, I guess. I have 52k miles and will start looking for timing belt and parts after I hit 100k miles. Any part the doesn't look pretty close to perfect will get changed, including the water pump, maybe. If the old timing belt comes off looking pretty good I may go longer on the next belt if I have the vehicle that long.

I did the listening trick and my decoupler pulley on the alternator is starting to rattle. I have a new pulley but have not had time to install it yet - this weekend. I think I will change the serpentine belt like you say, sometime after 60k miles.

goodcrd

As for your cirp. Check the turbo. Garrett vnt turbos are known to have the VNT fins hang up. This is usually a sign of the turbo going bad. First pull the hoses off the turbo and check the shaft for any play. If some is found take it right back to the dealer while still under warranty. If it is out of warranty order a rebuild kit and rebuild it. As long as the housing is good it is rebuildable. Try a detriot diesel or garrett turbo supplier to get the parts. Jeep should have them also.

lightnin3

Hi Siberia, thanks for the reply.
Hmm... it sounds like what happened to me at 80K. When the serpentine belt was wore down. If the alternator rattles..thats not good..that means one of the rotor bearings for the shaft is warn, and needs replacing.
If you take it off and bring it to a motor rewind shop they could replace the bearings before any damage to the rotor winding happens.Usually they are pressed on sealed bearing pack. the whole process costs about $75. alot cheaper than replacing the $350 alternator.
When you take off the Belt spin the alternator by hand and listen to it.Sometimes the warn belt can sound like a rattling noise this can be deceiving.

Don't forget to change the tensioner at the same time as the belt change out.
This is common practice among mechanics. The tensioners don't last ,and can be the cause of the noise as well.just transmitted through the warn belt.

In my case I had them change it and all the pulley and alternator at the sametime., as it was warranty work at the time.
I had the manager with me, he didn't believe me so , I had him listen to the alternator. and was shocked .and said I was right.
Thank God for extended warranties.That covered me for 100K on the engine.
If you go with that idea of getting new brushes installed as well it would be a good idea and increase the longevity of the alternator.
Usually alternator brushes are good for 200k km's .
I've tested this theory already, as with my gr.cherrokkee.It's a typical 160 Amp alternator you find on Jeeps.

farout

Winter2: Remember I had the "Green Beast"? We finally bought a Pacidica Touring AWD with the 4. L V-6 and the 6 speed auto. If they ever put this in a Liberty or Nitro it will blow the wheels of them. The mpg is very respectable 21 to 25 ! Sure better than our CRD that's for sure. I am pleased your CRD is still doing ok. How many miles do you have on the Jeep now?

farout

sthoge

I was experiencing an excessive battery drain on our 2005 CRD and had taken the rig in for other issues as well. What they found was that the relays to the tow package had been connected incorrectly and were drawing the battery down. It had gotten to where if the rig hadn't been driven for at least three days, it would not start with out charging it up first.

As it was the dealer said they have seen a number of Liberty's where the tow package relays were wired to the hot line instead of the key-on line and they draw a fair amount of current. They fixed it and replaced the battery with a new Optima battery, now it starts in the morning like it used to.

xtec

Just to let you know that the Nitro R/T has the 4.L 6 speed.

winter2

The source of the chirp has been fixed. It turns out that one of the two tensioners for the timing belt failed. The tensioner pulley is loaded with grease and sealed. In this case, the grease seal failed and some of the grease got onto the timing belt. Both tensioner pulleys were replaced, the idler pulleys and the other gear toothed pulleys were cleaned. The timing belt was replaced as well as the center gasket under the timing belt cover. It is a rectangular gasket that seals the timing belt area from the outside environment.

If you change the timing belt on your own, you will need to purchase some special tools to keep the camshafts from moving. The timing belt, which was replaced, and comes from Poland, costs about $250 at the dealer.

The technician also checked the condition of the alternator pulley and found it in good order.

winter2

Farout,

I certainly remember the "Green Beast" and all of your aggravation. I am still quite happy with my CRD and am getting better FE than you are. I am averaging 23 MPG going back and forth to work in metro D.C. rush hour traffic while highway FE is a touch over 30 MPG. I have about 32.5 K on my Jeep.

Good Luck with your Pacifica. I hear the engine is quite good as is the transmission. However, according to my dealer, the AWD versions have significant durability issues with the transfer case. Also, according to my dealer, the new Chrysler will be discontinuing the Pacifica in the near future.

caribou1

Hi all,
Those of you who want to change the timing belt need to consider the risk of unforeseen rotation of the crankshaft. Disconnect all glow plugs to let air in the cylinders to release the pressure inside the cylinders. Make your own 'well visible' marks on the new timing belt. This makes life much simpler. :shades:

abouzaid

I got a code type 41, do you have any idea what it could be, based on your Experience with type 43???????

mdamick

It is not a light-just the model number of the instrument cluster.
Is your unit calibrated in kilometers?

caribou1

My instrument cluster is in Kilometers and labeled Type 33. It could even be a dummy cluster because no code ever showed up (I keep my fingers crossed).

The only degradation I have is RATTLING NOISE, the kind of rattle that makes people tilt their head and tighten their teeth when they see me :sick:
I had to pay big money to the dealership for them to make it so bad.

lightnin3

Hi Caribou,
So where is the rattling noise coming from??
Inside the vehicle?
Don't tell me your alternator bearing or serpentine belt is starting go as well ??
lightnin...

abouzaid

yes calibrated by Kilometers, i hope it's not an error or something serious, it's not a light, it's some kind of a reflection to out source light !

caribou1

Hi Lightnin3,
The a/c compressor modulates the noise, the outside temperature as well. It was too cold to investigate under the truck, so I let it rattle until something gets loose.

So far I've not had any issue with the belts. They were both unduly changed and I was given to see the shiny tooth from the dealer. It's sad to have a super technician work on your new truck while the warranty runs and to have the understanding and assurance you are technically abused once the work is done and you inevitably have to pay the bill. Have you heard the same about Toyota? I haven't.

mdamick

If you work the bugs out they will last at least this long.
Mine just turned over this mark-hoping to get around 250000 before needing a motor or other major part.

yakers

So what bugs did you work out? And do you get 'heavy' (towing or off road) use from your CRD? I would like to get 250K miles out of mine too. Not sure if modern diesels are up to it the way my 1966 MB 200D was, but hoping.

mdamick

My bugs have been:fuel filter leaking air, transmission failure @ 18k, EGR issues and the recalls.
I have done a little towing, will probably do more in next couple of years.

I have 231K on my Dodge diesel:1 trans rebuild(18K-coincidence?), 1 transfer case (broken by failed CV joint) 1 injection pump(warranty @ 80K) and 1 head gasket.

jeepgirl05

Hi Guys!
Wondering if someone could give me some advice on how often my Jeep's oil should be changed? Is it 3 or 5,000 miles? And every time I get it changed it costs around $75.00!! Seems like alot but they always say, cuz it's a diesel. I take it to the Jeep dealer, so far it's the cheapest place, places like QuikLube said it would be over $100. Course they told me I was crazy too, and said Jeep doesn't make diesels. Well then had to go prove to them they did, but didn't let them touch it.
Thanks!
JeepGirl

butchman

Here's more than you asked for - but if you are aware of this, it can save you a little grief! The thin Service Book that should be along side your owners manual has a "Schedule B" that recommends 6,000 miles between oil changes. However, due to the fact that the EPA required Jeep to use a closed crankcase ventilation (CCV) system which at times recirculates exhaust air back into the intake, the oil turns black rather quickly. So, I set a target of changing it every 5,000 and sometimes go over that a bit depending on schedule. I now have racked up a total mileage of of 58K on the odometer and CRD is running good. I use the mfr recommended Mobile 0W40. I have a pole barn/shop and do my own oil changes. Here is a tip: I had some trouble with the original oil plug as it used a "T" style tool to remove (like a phillips only with a star shape - weird for a drain plug). It rounds out easy and makes it hard to remove the plug - which is scary - can you imagine what they would charge to lift the motor and remove the oil pan. I wanted to prevent that so I ordered a new drain plug from the dealer and when I picked it up I found that Jeep changed the drain plug to now have a real bolt style head on it. The next time you schedule an oil change, I would call ahead and order a new drain plug and then hand that plug to the tech that is changing the oil. Also, warn the tech that there is a thin brass washer on the original drain plug that likes to stick to the oil pan and then fall into the drain pan. If they put the plug on without it, it will create drips on your floor. I found the washer - no drips on my floor! Sorry if this is overkill, but thought the info might come in handy.

Mike

mdamick

I do it every 6000.
It costs about $60 at a Xpress Lube because of the synthetic oil.

You can save a lot if you do it yourself.

caribou1

Lightnin3,
Weather's warm today so I investigated to find the rattle. It seems to occur mainly when cold :confuse:
I opened the plastic cap of the free wheeling pulley of the alternator. You can turn the alternator shaft with your finger and "feel" the quality of the ball bearings. Of course this is with the engine off and ignition key removed to avoid accidental field excitation. With a large screwdriver applied to the alternator (and the engine running) I could hear what I thought was a defective bearing, but I believe the coarse sound came from the ECU pulsing the field. Have you noticed this?

haroldb2

Our 2006 CRD only has 25,000 miles and for the last couple of thousand miles when we are slowing to stop it feels like the TC doesn't want to disconnect. On a couple of occasions the Diesel has actually stalled. Most times the TC stays connected until the vehicle has almost slowed to a stop then it does a hard disconnect. We have NOT had the VOLUNTARY F37 TC recall done...Like other owners on the forum I see it as a bandaid. Rather than fix the problem, which is a TC that can't handle the engines torque, they de-tune the engine to decrease it's preformance so the TC doesn't fail!

Any thoughts on what is causing our problem? I have written Jeep and will be anxiuos to see how they try to "spin" this...

winter2

The torque converter for this transmission is a bit weird. It lives in various stages of engagement until you reach 57+ MPH at which point it becomes fully engaged. The level of engagement is controlled by a controller (computer) and a solenoid or two. The solenoid has been known to be cranky at times and there are several members of this forum who have had to have it replaced.

Even though I have had the F37 done on my CRD, the TC clutch can still slip and/or bind causing shuddering at speeds at or just above the second to the last shift point. The F37 will only prolong the life of the TC for a bit longer until it fails totally. Chrysler hopes it fails after the 70K drivetrain warranty that I have on my 2005.

I am saving up for a couple of updates to my CRD.

1. The Transgo heavy duty shift kit that shortens the shifts by 2/3.
2. A better, stouter TC.
3. A "chip" to bring back the torque the F37 took away.

As for the Grand Cherokee CRD, I wonder if they will have the same TC issue that CRD owners have had?

mdamick

I have found that the shudder does not happen if I put the CRD into 4 Full Time.
I think that the TCM changes the TC lockup when it detects the added load.

zachinmi

Mike/Butchman has provided excellent info. I agree with everything, except that I would (and did) go out to 6200 miles between changes, which is the schedule for "severe service," and that I personally would use either CI-4+ or CJ-4 rated oil, either of which has newer additives that deal better with the soot from the EGR system (I used CI-4+ oil whenever I did my oil changes). The Mobil 1 0W-40 does not have this spec; your choices that do have the spec include Mobil 1 5w-40 *turbo diesel truck* (not the 5w-40 for gas engines) or Shell Rotella-T synthetic 5W-40, or a couple other options from companies like Amsoil.

zachinmi

"Even though I have had the F37 done on my CRD, the TC clutch can still slip and/or bind causing shuddering at speeds at or just above the second to the last shift point. The F37 will only prolong the life of the TC for a bit longer until it fails totally. Chrysler hopes it fails after the 70K drivetrain warranty that I have on my 2005. "

This is consistent with my experience after F37, and some additional visits to the dealer, and driving time before I gave up and traded my CRD; and the opinion is consistent with my personal opinion on Chrysler's way of, ahem, "dealing" with the problems.

Haroldb2, my suggestion:
1) Demand fix from Chrysler; it won't happen.
2) Demand buyback from Chrysler; it won't happen either.
3) Sell or trade your CRD.
4) Chat with lemon law attorneys to see if you can sue Chrysler.

Or skip #4 as too much hassle. I did 1-3 and my blood pressure about doubled, I decided to cut losses, take a financial hit now and stop worrying. I traded at 35,800 miles knowing that the EGR valves weren't covered under the drivetrain warranty, which to me is totally ridiculous. (EGR wasn't my main reason for getting rid of the CRD - unfixable drivability problems with the shudder was - but knowing I was going to get rid of it soon anyway, I didn't want to be buying an EGR valve that failed at 36,001 miles just so I could trade it in.) I didn't get a lot for my trade despite near-perfect cosmetic condition - two different dealers told me these don't go for much at auction. My new vehicle (neither a Chrysler nor a diesel) has been 100% reliable and hasn't hiccuped once.

hobjr

This is my first time posting a message so bear with me.

My 2005 Liberty CRD is in the shop again and this time it has been 2 weeks. The problem simply is that the engine in neutral runs fine, in gear and accelerating there is a surging, no power, and some smoke; practically undriveable. At speeds above 55-60 is is much smoother, almost no problem.

Chrysler is at a loss. They are focused on the Turbocharger. They have replaced the 2 modulator valves / solenoids on the firewall that are part of the vacuum system, with no improvement. They now want to change the Throttle Body (for about $900), because they claim it can't be cleaned. The Waste / Dump vent to the Turbo seems to remain constantly open. When the vacuum line is pulled off it runs fine.

Should there be a constant vacuum on this vent? What would cause it to stay always open? Is there a good check? How is any of this tied to the Throttle Body? Is it true they can't be cleaned?

Chrysler is making me pay for their "exploratory" activities, since they've never seen the problem and the STAR tech is grasping for straws now.

Any suggestions as to where to look or how to fix it would be helpful. Until I know more, I've told them not to change out anymore parts. A quick reply would be helpful.

HELP!!!

mdamick

I am not sure what they are calling the throttle body as a diesel does not have one.
The CRD has an EGR flow control valve that closes to get more Exhaust Gas into the intake. It is an expensive part but would have to be closed all the time and this just gives you no power, pulling the power plug would verify this. It is a sealed assembly but it should not need cleaning.

As I remember the turbo vane control has vacuum and loses it to adjust the vanes.

To me, it sounds like a fuel flow issue. Make sure you are not getting air into the fuel filter assembly, mine had to be replaced for this problem.

What color is the smoke? Black is too much fuel-too little air & white is too little fuel.