Jeep Liberty Diesel

lakelvr

Butchman: thank you for the response. I held in the mileage reset button and turned on the ignition switch; needles danced and numbers flashed but the screen was blank when all settled down - no error codes. Been looking at my mileage and it seems that I'm not getting the 30mpg highway that I usually do. Not sure but first look seems so. Thanks again and I will look at suggested site.

caribou1

Winter,
My boost sensor was covered by solid soot when I first cleaned it. It's true I don't have variable vanes but I never saw any difference in performance before and after cleaning...
Your turbo vanes are operated by the solenoid valve that carries the "lawn mower fuel filter" This little filter can play tricks on you if it's clogged: if the vanes can't move when they need to, the turbo will build up more pressure than needed.

You see, once again I will advocate for the wastegate and anything driven by a spring or lever :P

On TV tonight we were shown a recent Ukranian diesel substitute: pork fat. It seems to be a stinker for those who don't enjoy bacon :surprise:

winter2

Caribou,

I change that "lawnmower" filter every fall so there are no issues. As to the boost sensor, it apparently plays enough of a role over here to cause issues. My CRD runs better after I clean that little guy which is every six months.

As to waste gates, all fine and good as they are simpler than the system on the VGT but you end up with more turbo lag, something that VGT reduces and the proper intake can nearly eliminate.

As to Ukrainian pork fat, oink, oink!!

kntrygurl

Thanks To All Who Responded......

But heres an update to all whose interested - I unplugged the vacuum line and put a plug in it and drove it to the dealer this mornin to get the stupid thing fixed and they are tyin to tell me that i have to change the intercooler, throttle control switch, and the EGR (i believe thats what they told me). They are sayin that i didn't change the air filter soon enuff and it caused it to suck air from somewhere else and with the vacuum line hooked up it was pushin to much air to the intake and because of all the oil in the hose it was makin it slip off.....

We (me and my dad - my mechanic) do not think that are right....because if the throttle control switch was acting up and not lettin it open and thats what is causin it to get to much pressure and the hose just slip off, then how is it that the jeep is able to rev up and go anywhere.....if the throttle control switch was stuck closed i wouldn't be able to go nowhere.....am i right or am i wrong.....

I'm beginnin to wonder if i made the right move into the CRD....

winter2

First question: What planet is this dealer on?
Second question: How often have you changed the air filter and the small "lawnmower" filter?
Third question: How many miles are on your CRD?
Fourth question: Have you ever cleaned the boost sensor?
Fifth question: Is the EGR valve the original one?
Sixth question: Is the CCV device on top of the engine original?

I have a small amount of oil in the hoses as a normal function of the engine. All turbo diesels, aftercooled or not have some oil in the hoses, especially those with closed crankcase ventilation in place. Before replacing the aftercooler, see if it can be cleaned out first before you spend beau coup bucks on a new one.

I have learned and am continuing to learn that these little guys need a bit more maintenance and TLC than other cars. I will admit that I have had a few issues with my CRD, but I do not feel that I made a mistake when I bought it in 2005.

siberia

Kntrygurl,

I think Winter2 and Caribou1 gave you good advice. It makes sense to clean the boost sensor even if it is not the root cause of the problem. And, if you have been driving in dirty enough conditions to plug your air cleaner your boost control filter (lawnmower filter) could be too dirty also and it is easy to inspect and change. I clean my boost sensor each oil change (every 6 months is not too often) but it seems to be staying cleaner as the engine ages.

You can drive in dirty conditions without knowing it. The first air filter I changed was completely plugged on one side and almost black all the way across. This was due to a boost hose that was leaking sooty oil fumes under the hood near the air cleaner intake. I cleaned the attaching points on the boost hoses and made sure the clamps were good and tight (without crushing the hoses) and the next air filter was much cleaner when changed. You have to baby sit these hoses a little.

Sooty oily fumes come out of the (engine) CCV valve and feed in between the air cleaner and the turbocharger. That stuff then goes through the turbo, turbo outlet hose, intercooler, intercooler outlet hose, and EGR flow control valve and in the intake where the boost sensor is located. This is how sooty oil ends up in the intercooler. The EGR valve also flows sooty exhaust into the intake near the boost/ temperature sensor just to make sure it gets a double dose.

However, it takes more than a little oil to plug the intercooler. My CRD used a quart or more of oil the first 1,300 miles then stopped. I doubt I have used 2 quarts in 55,000 miles. Have you been using a lot of oil? Do you have a lot of black smoke going out the exhaust other than when you really step on it? If your intercooler is plugged where did it come from? If your air cleaner was badly plugged wouldn’t your mass air flow sensor dial back the fuel and make your engine run weak? Do you have fault codes that someone more knowledgeable than me can identify the problem? Fault codes could be a bad EGR valve or something else. Seems unlikely that it would be multiple problems all at once.

Pushing the odometer reset when turning on the key only tests the gauges. You need to cycle the ignition on and off 3 or 4 times to the on position to get the fault codes to appear in the odometer area. Your dealer may have read codes that indicate more than one possible problem and they just want to change everything all at once.

Almost forgot, it's possible to remove and clean the intercooler and or the EGR valve rather than just putting on new parts.

coolrider

I have been deleting the emails about new posts on here for a while now. Ever since mine was repurchased by DCX. I took the money back and the offer for a bigger diesel. Yes mine is bigger by .2 liters. I have had my Grand Cherokee CRD for nearly a year now and it has not faltered once. I have gotten one recall for the brakes. It was a slow break in for the Benz diesel. Mine weighs 4913 lbs with the tank nearly empty. It rides much better is faster and so quite as compared to the Libby CRD and the only thing that suffers is the mileage. Mine also has the fulltime 4X4 so I know I pay a penalty for that too. I can get over twenty now all of the time in the city and slightly over 25 hwy. Today in Fla I made a lucky find of diesel for 4.17 per. It has not been towed (local tow truck driver must think I died) every other week like the libby or camped out at the dealer for weeks on end. All of this agony I read about on the libby from current owners makes me feel better about my decision to let it go back to its maker. For some strange reason I still miss the clatter of the libby and its size was perfect for my tastes so I guess I can see why there are those that hang on to it. I have had diesels for the last thirty years with rabbits and toyota pick up, ford powestroke, new beetle and now a Jetta too. I know that they are the way to go for only the libby was a sore spot mechanically in all of the miles on all of the diesels I have owned. So to end it I will say if you are looking for a more reliable diesel suv the new Jeep diesel is a great one.

kntrygurl

Ok Winter,
Here are the answers....
1.) I'm not sure what planet they are on....Which may explain my problem!!!
2.) I Just bought the jeep three months ago used and they was spost to do a complete service on it before i bought it but come to find out they didn't....But I changed the air filter 2,000 miles ago and installed a K&N on it....As to the 'lawnmower' filter, i haven't...we just found it when the jeep started actin up.
3.) When i bought it it had almost 34,000 and now it has 40, 233.
4.) No i haven't cleaned the boost sensor. Once again i just got it and didn't realise that was something i needed to do.....but i do know and that will be one of the things i will do at every oil change.
5.) No, Lookin at the warranty work done in the past it has been changed twice already....both covered under warranty. But now that it is out of the basic warranty, they are not wantin to cover it.
6.) I'm not sure what you are talking about....

Thank you so much for your help......Have you had this same problem? What oil do you run in your CRD? I am runnin the Mobil 1 0w-40, which is what the book calls for.....

winter2

The answer to question six lies under the engine shroud. To remove the engine shroud you need to remove the oil filler cap. Once the shroud is off, look for a round black device with a couple of hose coming off of it. If that is not working correctly or clogged, that will contribute to poor performance, oil consumption and oil leakage.

As to the oil, the 0W-40 is barely adequate as domestic diesel fuel is comparable to swill because of the low cetane and large amount of aromatic compounds, both which contribute to particulate formation and other issues. In this forum, most everyone is satisfied with any other 5W-40 synthetic from Shell or Mobil. I personally like Amsoil's 15W-40 heavy duty synthetic oil for Marine/Diesel applications. It specs out like Mobil 1 5W-40 Truck/SUV but has lower vaporization loss and a better additive package.

kntrygurl

Ok, now i know what you are talkin about.....We have looked at that, but we are not sure if it good or not.....We just got it and the only thing we have done to it is clean out the part of the intake hose that goes on the throttle body and put it back on but the next time i got in the jeep to take off it still blew off.....

Where do you get amsoil from? We have never heard of it.

Have you had this same problem with yours?

crackchaser

Okay whizzes. Got one for you. I've got a diesel liberty with 30K miles on it. It's lived in Texas its whole life but I recently relocated to Chicago. It's seen more rain in three months than in its whole life (and I'm freezing my you know what off too). Rained a bit yesterday and this morning it was drizzling when I went to start it up, the starter just started to crank and then within about 1/2 second stopped. All the electrical cut-out...there was nothing on anywhere. I jiggled the shifter and steering wheel. I tried to operate the key fob to see if it would work...nothing. While I was sitting in the car, convincing myself that riding the motorcycle to work (a 1 hour commute) was a bad idea, and debating what towing service to call I heard an audible click (like a relay firing) and voila, juice to everything (clue = the clock on the radio). However all of the preset radio stations had reset along with the clock reading midnight. I then had no problems starting. This is the first time it has done this. Anybody have any ideas why and whether this is going to continue?

doh4

I just got a huge estimate from my Jeep dealer for a bunch of things they say I need to have done to my ’05 CRD. New turbo and piping a few new sensors and some other random stuff totaling $3400. I’ve bee extremely disappointed by Darcars Chrysler in Rockville and the Jeep dealer in Tyson’s(Va). I’d really rather not give them any more of my money. Does any body have any suggestions for good diesel mechanics in the DC area?
Much appreciation!!!

The list from the dealer:
Engine light is on due to code for loss of fuel PSI-need to reset and bleed fuel system (53.00 plus tax)
Thumping noise is from left front axle support being worn (181.00 plus tax) Will have Mr Catron verify with technician and shop foreman in the AM
Oil light coming on due to low on oil-Turbo is leaking oil (1599.00 plus tax)
CCU assembly is leaking (109.00 plus tax)
EGR flow valve has build up of oil -need to remove and clean (174.00 plus tax)
Both boost hoses are oil soaked (573.00 plus tax)
Boost sensor is clogged (225.00 plus tax)
Clean oil mess and change oil and filter (217.00 plus tax)

siberia

Make it easy on yourself. Just use Rotella T synthetic diesel oil (blue bottle) available at most Wal*Marts. It meets the specs and is relatively cheap. Been using it since the first oil change and have not added a single drop in 55k miles!

Amsoil is super oil. Rotella T is just good enough.

Read the turbo cool down section in your owner's manual and follow it.

caribou1

Hi doh4,
Do you have electro-mechanical or diesel engine knowledge?

If you have the knowledge you will save lots of worry and money

If you are not technically inclined and don't have the money, it's time to learn

Most of your questions have already been discussed in this forum (without tax)

doh4

Hi
Actually I used to work on big truck for a living. That was a long time ago and they had no emission controls or computers back then. These days it’s more a matter of time than aptitude keeping me from under the hood.
I talked to the folks at Great Escape auto in Alexandria this morning. They sound competent and knowledgeable. I’m still open to suggestions for other local mechanics.
Dave

kntrygurl

Thank You! I'm goin to have to look into the different oils.....but now that i have been runnin mobil one would it be better for to just to go up to the 5-40? So that way i am not switchin brands, just goin to a slightly heavier weight.

doh4

Hi,
Where did you get the shop manual?
I'm having a hard time finding one for the crd.
Any help would be great!
dave

kntrygurl

hey i downloaded it from the internet.
http://colorado4wheel.com/allmanuals/Jeep/KJ/

this is a free download site.....

hope this helps.

goodcrd

Buy the gasket set needed to repair the oil leak at the CCV. Clean up the oil that leaked down on everything. Pull the intake side hoses off the turbo and clean it out with brake cleaner. Put everything back together and clean the boost sensor with brake cleaner. Put it all back together. Change your fuel filter. Buy an aftermarket one from napa or big A. They are less expensive. Remember to hand prime the fuel filter after you change it so not to damage the fuel pump. Now run it like a rented mule for a hour or so. Then pull off the turbo intake side hoses and check for an oil leak. Make sure it is not the oil from the CCV. The oil from the CCV would be normal. It your turbo was leaking it would smoke heavy black smoke all the time. Take the suspension problem to a shop you trust. Any mechanic can fix your thumping problem. "Don't Trust the Dealers"!!!!!!!!

Good Luck. I now have 83,000 miles on my 2005 CRD. Runs Great.

winter2

What is the condition of the hose that keeps blowing off? Is the end soft and mushy? If so, then the hose(s) need(s) to be replaced. The CCV on top of the engine needs replacing every so many thousands of miles. If it gets clogged, then you may get an oil leak down the side of the engine and the engine does not idle as smoothly as it is able to.

As to the Amsoil, you can find it at www.amsoil.com.

winter2

Doh4,

I am surprised at your response concerning Darcars in Rockville. Are they the dealer near the Marlo furniture store? I purchased my CRD from them new in 2005 and they have always been reasonable and upfront with me.

Unfortunately, many of the parts you mention in your post are dealer only items and they are not cheap. Have you done the regular maintenance?

siberia

I walk on egg shells when discussing oil because of the tendency for arguments to break out when oil is discussed on any forum because of strong individual preferences. I will simply say that you can switch from 0W40 Mobil 1 to 5W40 Mobil 1 or to Rotella T 5W40 or Amsoil with out harming your engine. My CRD had a ticky lifter on Mobil 1 and it went away when I switched to Rotella T and did not come back. Maybe just coincedence.

When you buy synthetic oil at a retail store make sure the seal is not broken. That is the only way to make sure the product you are buying is what is actually in the container.

craigs1969

Hi folks, it's been a while since I posted but I visit from time to time to read. Anywho, I got an oil change today at Walmart to save some money over the dealer's high costs. The report they gave me says they put in 6.9 Qts. I've now noticed. 1. Do you think that's too much? and 2. If so, how much should I have them drain out?
Thanks, craig

synlubes

my 2005 crd holds seven quarts

nescosmo

Craigs....... When you change your oil, always there will be old oil left over in the engine; I always put 6 Qts. the reason is that if you put extra oil you will be over the mark and that oil will end up as a blow by and if you do not have a Provent 200 all that oil will end up in your turbo cooler and in you VC.

Nescosmo.....

siberia

Owner's manual reads 6.4 quarts. A measured 6.4 quarts is 1/8 inch below the full mark on my dipstick.

propwash

I just purchased a 2006 Liberty diesel.I needed a replacement for a 1995 2500 Dodge Cummins TD(great truck).Also had to be able to pull a 5000# trailor.So far so good.One problem is a knocking sound on start up and shut down.Almost like the exaust pipe is hitting the floor up front.Any ideas?
Propwash

jimhemi

So I dropped my Liberty off at the dealership to get the stalling problem looked into. It was something that only happened for me, of course the dealership was never able to duplicate the problem.
The Tech was smart and said what I had been told from you guys, the EGR was probably bad. The tech called Chrysler technical assistance and explained that my Liberty Diesel with just a smidge past 32,800 was stalling. Mother Chrysler told him to check the hoses to the turbo and inter cooler. If there is oil in them then they all need to be replaced, as well as the turbo, inter cooler and EGR.
Well, needless to say I'm happy I still had warranty coverage as I now have a new turbo, EGR, Inter cooler and all applicable hoses, clamps, etc. Since I can't get much for a trade in on it and it now runs like the 3 legged it dog it once was I'm going to purchase the extended warranty.
As for those that have similiar problems it doesn't seem to be oil related either. I have used Mobil 5w-40 every 3200 miles. It only used a little oil when the engine was new and since hasn't really consumed much so I'm wondering if there was some problems during the break in period? Anyway, I didn't pay a dime so all is good until it hits 60,000 miles... then will I be in for the same treat?

jimhemi

Exhaust manifold could be loose. If you hear a popping noise when you start and stop it's propbably your motor mount... atleast that's what the problem was with mine.

mdamick

I would check the battery connections. It sound like you lost all power and may have a corroded or loose terminal.

coolrider

Crackerchaser, I am not a whiz, but was a former owner! Try checking your fuse box in the engine bay next to the battery for the wire 's and fuses for corrosion,tightness and condition. Fortunately for me my Liberty CRD had a host of problems from the get go. It was being towed before I got the title back. It started with the starter failure at a 500 miles and went downhill from there. The wiring harness and fuse box was replaced several times due to melted wires here and there. I believe this is the root of most of the problems to the CRD. The fuel sensor was fried as was the tranny flashed items and engine mgt flashed controls. My problems were usually started by the fuse blowing somewhere in the car and then it would quit, as in DOA. Many of the replacement items that people are complaining about on here are covered bya dozen or so recalls on the Liberty. IE the front end parts, flashing the tranny and engine, brakes.

caribou1

Hi all,
I drove the CRD to the sea shore and measured the same mileage I had 5 years ago in the same area when it was brand new (not broken in).

I kept 4WD full time during long stretches of highway to see what this really costs :surprise:
It turned out to be even in my case with the bonus of a low mileage and all tires at the same temperature while driving 75 mph with cruise control

This is to say that after 75,000 miles of 'kind' beating, the truck still behaves like new but doesn't look new anymore... The altitude (barometric pressure) and outside temperature play an enormous role on mileage and performance.

By the way, I still forgot to reconnect my EGR valve :shades:

kntrygurl

Hey Guys....It looks like i am begginng to be a regular here at the forum!

Heres an update on the jeep -
- Got new hoses
- Got a new Throttle Body
- Cleaned out the intercooler and EGR
- Changed the oil and oil filter
- Put on a mopar air filter (said K&N was allowing to much air)
- Got a new Boost Pressure Sensor

My dad is goin to be orderin me a new CCV valve in the mornin for it so we can change that.

So far its runnin good and i am glad to see i have it back....I just hope that i am not goin to have this problem every 6-8 thousand miles....

Also the mechanic that worked on it at the dealership i used said to tell everyone i talk to and is having problems on thier CRD's that is not common or is taking forever to fix because the dealers do not know what to do about them, said to report a complaint to thier website and see if we can't get some info on them...
The reason i am bringing this up is because the mechanic has only worked on two CRD's since they have been made and does not know a whole lot bout them....

I know that doesn't look good for me, but at least he went to school on them so he knows a lil more than i do......LOL!!! :P

Well anyways - Thanks to all has helped and please anyone feel free to let me know if there is anything i can do to my libby to make it stay in good running condition....

jimhemi

I think that could be the other sour point with this little Diesel is the fact that very few techs even knew how to work on them.
What's worst was that even fewer knew that Jeep offered a Diesel when it would roll into the shop. A good tech will be able to work on any engine, but the Diesel mechanics are simply better as that's all they do. I have found that the better dealerships have a Dodge Franchise so at least one of the techs has some diesel experience with the Cummins.
Your repair bill seemed similiar to mine. I was able to get a new turbo, egr, intercooler and all hoses under warranty. It still hasn't fixed the stalling problem which is really becoming annoying.

nicku812

I agree. Most dealships do not or did not know Jeep make a CRD in the Liberty models until you drove it in to the deal ship for an oil change or service. I still get strange looks when I fill it up at a diesel pump. Stangers still come over and talk to me about it. Asking me if I knew I was putting diesel in my vehicle.

While I have had relatively good performance from my diesel, it is hard to just take it to a 5 Minute oil change and get it serviced. Because they never had or heard of a diesel. Plus they dont have the special tool to take off the drain plug. Plus an oil filter. I do love my jeep diesel and have no plans on getting rid of it.

I have 22,000 on my 2006 jeep liberty and still get about 31 mpg on the highway at a conserative driving speed.

I wish Jeep would offer it in some other models to keep it on going. At least the diesel engine.

mdamick

What are the symptoms to your stalling?
Mine would suddenly lose power and then it would die
If I shut off the key for a minute or so it would run fine for weeks.

All of this stopped when I disconnected the EGR.
I do not think the valve is the issue, it is the programming for it.

stb

How do you disconnect the EGR?

mdamick

There is a plug which is difficult to get to from the bottom.
Another way to test is disconnect the MAF sensor on the air intake, according to other posts the EGR will not operate if the MAF is disconnected.
Either one lights the MIL.

nescosmo

Stalling, the shake, oil in the hoses, lost of power are things of the past go to lost forum and learn how to fix all of that.

nescosmo.

amax

I have a 2005 crd with 54000 miles on it. The stealership is saying my egr valve is not covered under the 7/70000 warranty. Is this correct, or are they trying to double dip.

amax

ben37

I have a 2006 Jeep Liberty CRD with around 16,700 miles on it. It was purchased in July 06. On 6-7-07, check engine light came on and the transmission was in limp mode. Took it to the dealer. The tech ran the codes and replaced the TRS Assembly (solenoid). That was at 6,055 miles. CRD ran ok for about two weeks. Then on 6-27-07 the same problem came up at 6,202 miles. The dealer had it for a week and the found that the wiring harness was loose. They called star tech assistance for that. On 5-23-08 the same problem comes up again. But it had been making a rattling noise while in reverse and neutral. As I was taking it in for that problem the limp mode and check engine light came on. The tech said it was the solenoid TRS Assembly again. I reminded them that the last time it was a wiring problem. The tech said well they will start with the solenoid first. Solenoid installed and it still has the same problem. Then they decided it was a wiring issue. They ordered a wiring harness for the transmission. They said that it was coming out of Wisconsin and on Friday they didn't have the harness. After some more queries today (Monday), they said that they tried to install 3 transmission harness and that they are all bad, that the proper connection can’t be made. They claim that they had to contact Chrysler Engineering to determine what the issue is and how to complete the repair. I have never heard such nonsense, even if it is true. I have read in the forum that many CRD owners have had problems with the transmission harness and solenoids but not to this degree. I can see this going on for another week at least. The service advisor said that the transmission wiring harness was the source of the rattling noise in reverse and neutral. I believed it was a engine mount, pulley or something of that nature. Anyone been through transmission problems with wiring to this degree?

kntrygurl

Amax,
I was told the same thing. They described to me that the 7/70000 ONLY covers anything lubrication touches. which means the engine....So unless we are at the same dealership then i guess i would say that they are right.

Oh and i even tried to get them to cover since it was covered in engine oil from where it was sucking it outa the engine! Oh and i am still having trouble with it!

puglimo

Hi Guys. Just bought a 2005 Liberty CRD with 42k on it. Took trip to Lexington then over to WV and back to good old B'ham. I generally drove 65-70 on road and soft footed it in town. I'm getting a pretty consistent 23 mpg. It sounds like I should be able to do better than this. Any thoughts??

kntrygurl

Thats bout what i'm gettin in my 05 Liberty with 40K on it.

storageguy

Hello, I suggest you first check the air cleaner. Next for a tank or 2 use a diesel fuel suppliment. You should be getting more than 23. Any idea of the service history? How often would you be changing oil? Remember it is 0-40 or 5-40 diesel oil that you would use. Hope this may be of help.

jimhemi

Well, if anyone has similiar symptoms or knows what can fix this let me know. If the truck has some heat in the engine and is parked for an hour or more. Upon start up, if I start moving the truck just sits there and the turbo spools up and eventually moves.
It mimics a transmission that's hung in gear or low on fluid. (It's topped off)
I'll proceed just a short distance, in most cases to the end of the driveway and then you feel the inevitable stall as the diesel rattles and shakes weird coming to a burbling stall.
As previously posted, the Turbo is new. The Intercooler and hoses are new. The EGR is new. All were replaced under warranty the same day.
I changed the oil when I got home as well as a brand new Mopar Fuel Filter and primed and bled the system of air. The little [non-permissible content removed] still acts up on me.
Chrysler technical told the dealership to change the above mentioned items as this has been known to cure the problem. It has not fixed mine which is leading me to believe it's more severe then thought.
The other problem is the truck is worthless on a trade only being offered 13,700 on something that books for 17+ with options and mileage (just over 34k now).
The "price of diesel makes this a niche vehicle that no one would want." Used car manager at undisclosed dealership. I was trying to trade it in for a new F250 Powerstroke

mdamick

Your EGR is opening up when it is not supposed too.
I think it is a programming issue. I would pull the MAF plug as a test, that is supposed to disable the EGR also.
If that proves it see if they have done all of the programming updates.

jimhemi

Thanks!!! The last update they performed, they put the big grey sticker on the driver side fender tag; underneath the hood. I will more then likely purchase the extended warranty so I don't know if I should disconnect the EGR yet I can't keep stopping into this dealership.
I'm in sales so I need my truck and the only way they offer a loaner is if you have the extended warranty. (Screwed without a car)
I think you have the right idea though because yours seems fine.
Oh, I looked at the Suncoast site you recommended, nice converters!

nescosmo

Check your map sensor is bad or dirty also there is a sensor on the fuel pump near the alternator, that could be bad too, check your air control valve, it could close and kill the engine off, also check your hoses maybe they are not too tight and leak air. Go slow and check one item at the time check the plug on the cam sensor, it could be loose.

nescosmo

puglimo

Thanks storageguy for the info on mileage. I used a supplement "Diesoil" (sp) that I used in my Mercedes 240. Any suggested brands?
The unit has been in the shop at least twice for recalls - lower ball joints, torque converter, reprogram TCM, and reprogram PCM/TCM.
I guess I'm very fortunate, after reading about guys being in the shop dozens of times for problems. The odo reads 45,000 and evrything works and it runs just fine, except for the sub par mileage.
It has been serviced at a local Express OiI. I intend to get whatever documentation I can. I haven't looked at the air filter yet. What about a K&N or should I stay with the original...
Thanks...