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Jeep Liberty Diesel

1194195197199200224

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    storageguystorageguy Member Posts: 30
    If you read through some of the 100's of emails on this blog you will get a very good idea of what others have faced with their CRD's. To me some folks get rid of them the moment they have just a little trouble, even envoking Lemon Laws if available. Others work through the problems, sometimes viewing them as a challenge. My 06 is a little finicky. I have a great diesel mechanic at the Chrysler dealership, this fellow works on diesels only - mostly the Dodge Cummins. He knows his stuff and has not disappointed. So I think a great mechanic is one of the solutions. In my case my CRD will sometimes lurch and stall. I just let it sit for a minute and re-start, then all is fine. Kind of like re-boot on a computer.
    I would not change anything on the vehicle that might hinder the warranty. If you are out of the warranty time frame, then K&N and maybe even a low restriction exhaust system could help. Their are a few chips on the market as well.
    All in all for me at this time I love the vehicle, it tows and hauls and gets through heavy snow and mud with no problem. Best wishes on yours.
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    kntrygurlkntrygurl Member Posts: 12
    Hey Ya'll....I was just wondering where i can get a provent filter to put on my CCV. Would be in my best interests to get one? Any information ya'll got will be greatly appreciated!

    THANX!!!!
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    kntrygurlkntrygurl Member Posts: 12
    Hey Guys Its me again. Hope i ain't botherin ya'll to much. :D I am wanting to install a cool down timer on my libby after i get everything runnin right on it and i was wonderin if anyone has one or can tell me where i can get one... I found one at autoanything.com but it don't tell me if it is made for the jeep. Please help.
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    yakersyakers Member Posts: 10
    On the Lost KJ site there is some discussion about the Provent, seems to work for VW people and some Liberty owners have got them to work but they are not specifically designed for the Liberty so you have to make them fit. You could just disconnect the hose, called the ORM (off road modification)
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    shizzznitshizzznit Member Posts: 9
    I went out and purchased the Actron Pocket Scan Plus code reader----I wanted to have this so that i could check my codes once in a while to make sure nothing else but the code referring to the ORM mod would appear. After plugging it in several times and re-reading the manual, I found out that my 2005 CRD is NOT OBD II compatible????? Is anyone using a reader that will actually work on this vehicle??
    THANKS :)
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    nescosmonescosmo Member Posts: 453
    You have to go to the dealer and reflash your computer so the CRD will read the OBDII codes.

    nescosmo.
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    mdamickmdamick Member Posts: 277
    I am using a INNOVA 3130 that works just fine on my 2005.
    The problem is that after a while it will quit talking to it.
    The fix is to turn off the engine for a minute or so to reset the computer.
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    jimhemijimhemi Member Posts: 223
    Has anyone purchased the extended warrenty? I'm planning on buying one soon. Which one did you buy? Have you had to use it yet?
    I was about to purchase a new Ford Powestroke but the message board to our bigger diesel cousins doesn't pain a pretty picture of that either. Seems to be a POS for people the same as this has been to us. The employee pricing is a no brainer when it comes to saving money but the lack luster fuel mileage and the countless problems they seem to be having forced my hand.
    Cummins is just to expensive and they're not without some issues. Looks like I'll be stuck with this little rat for a little while longer :sick:
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    mngolfermngolfer Member Posts: 18
    This where we purchased our extended warranty. Got the best pricing from them. Local dealers were not even close in pricing. This is a Chrysler warranty.
    http://www.eservicecontracts.com/

    Will purchase manufacturer's warranty after getting burned on Warranty Gold going bankrupt. Had Warranty Gold on 2 other vehicles and was OK, but still had hassle getting authorized repair. With Chrysler warranty, never a problem. Our 3/36 just ran out on our 2005 CRD, so have not used the extended warranty. Was concerned about the EGR valve problems and repair, so decided to get the extended warranty. Had 2 EGRs replaced right after the CRD was new, but has been no problems for over 2 years now. We are getting 28-30 mpg on the highway and 22 to 24 in city driving.

    http://www.eservicecontracts.com/
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    gunnar2gunnar2 Member Posts: 11
    we purchased the extended warrangy with our 2006 crd. we haven't had to use it yet, but it is comforting considering all the things i've read on this site (especially regarding the turbines, etc.)
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    joejeep5joejeep5 Member Posts: 2
    Doe s anyone know what trouble code P1265 means?
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    caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    P1265 Cylinder #5 High To Low Side Short

    If this is really your case, someone else is in deep trouble because we only have 4 cylinders in our diesel engine :P
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    joejeep5joejeep5 Member Posts: 2
    I was mistaken, it is code P1256.
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    mike6206mike6206 Member Posts: 35
    kntrygurl sounds like she has the right idea on discussing oil because it does go across some loyalties. I'm hardcore on using the Mobil Delvac 1 5W40 (a.k.a Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Pick-up and SUV oil. The difference is the packaging, but it's the same oil.) I never did have the tick sound using it, but some do and some don't. I chose it because it was out on the market longer than the others, i.e. proven over time.

    As for the seal no being broken when you purchase, very excellent idea! ;)
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    zellerzeller Member Posts: 9
    Greetings from a newbie. My 05 Liberty Diesel check engine light brought me to the local Dodge dealer. He says it's the EGR Valve. This will be the 3rd EGR failure in 46K miles. Even though I bought the extended warrantee, they say it's not covered and will cost me $700. Does anyone have any advice.
    Bill in NY
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    faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    zeller: Congratulations! You have offically joined the CRD club! Very few owners have not had some issues with the EGR sysyem. The EGR is part of the emmisions system and should be covered. The Chrysler Servoce Contract does cover the EGR system. So call the Service Manager (after you have read your Service Contract) and inform him he made a slight ($ 700.) mistake.

    farout (once owned the "Green Beast CRD)
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    caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Hi farout,
    You and me have something in common: we don't need an EGR valve anymore :blush:
    I never really considered putting mine into service again and I'm enjoying an expensive but trouble free truck.
    Seems we will have to ride trains to get to work because of the price of fuel. I don't want to tell you exactly how much I pay, but it's about 2.5 times your price.

    A few small cars were tilted on their side doors by people who steal fuel by perforating the tank. This is becoming to resemble the "Mad Max" movie :sick: A "SUMO" truck does have it's advantages :shades:
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    tech_man13tech_man13 Member Posts: 1
    Hello Everyone! I'm currently thinking about purchasing a used 2006 Liberty CRD with 47k miles on it and I'm having troubles deciding whether or not I should do it. I've read lots of reviews both good and bad and I just can't make up my mind. I currently drive a 2003 Chevy Tahoe Z71. Can anybody help me make the decision?
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    leejrflaleejrfla Member Posts: 8
    It is covered if you purchased the extended warranty. The person who told you that is full of it. The EGR valve is a cronic problem on this vehicle ask to speak to a manager at the dealer...
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    leejrflaleejrfla Member Posts: 8
    Some of the CRD's have major problems! Get the VIN and ask a service advisor at a dealer look it up and see what issues have come up with it since new. Chrysler has purchased back a number of these vehicles for an array of issues under the lemon law. There are some good ones out there make sure this one is one of them.
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    zellerzeller Member Posts: 9
    Lee, Thanks for your response. I have written to Herbee Motors in West Islip NY. The dealer who looked at it. Lets see if I get a reply. In the meantime I'll check another dealer. Bill in NY
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    nicku812nicku812 Member Posts: 13
    I have owned my CRD since 2006 and bought it used from the dealer. I have had only one problem with it and that was the armature dealing with the shifter. It was covered under the warrant. It had 6600 miles on it and now I have 26,000 and not a bit of trouble., The only thing I can tell from reading this forum is that the ERG valves need constant care/replacement. But I havent heard at what mileage they first start having trouble, I also don't use Biodiesel. Some say that was a problem. I get my oil changed on a regular basis. So I cant say anything bad. I still get around 33 miles per gallon on the highway conserative driving. About 60 - 65 mph. City its around 20. I did go the Ebay and purchase a case of oil filters because once I went to a different dealership to get the oil changed and they did not have any filters in stock. So I gave them one I had. GOOD LUCK I think it would be worth doing a car fax and ask for maintance records.
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    duster7469duster7469 Member Posts: 4
    A month ago I posted a message about our Jeep Liberty's check engine light and a rough idle. I got a decoder and hooked it up. I got a cylinder #3 misfire code. I replaced the coil and the light went off. A few days later the light and rough idle returned. I was able to take the coil back and get another new one. I still have the same problem. It always has come and gone, but I think the light is staying on longer. I tried moving the coil to a different cylinder and the plug as well. (All the plugs were replaced a few months ago with new NGKs.) I tried some fuel injector cleaner but the problem remains. My question is this: Is this a fuel injector problem? Could this be the reason why the problem comes and goes? Would this also explain the rough idle? If this is a fuel injector problem how hard are they to replace? Thanks for the help.
    D.
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    arvmanarvman Member Posts: 95
    I'm towing a trailer with the diesel and finding overheating going up some steep hills out here.Thinkin of putting in an auxiliary cooler,the one built into the a/c rad just doesn't seem big enough.I found a way to install the cooler but wondering what kind of pressure were dealing with at the cooler lines so i can get lines made if i have to.Noticed the factory lines are quick connects so shouldn't be too much pressure there.If i go this route,will probably bypass the factory cooler completely since i don't get too cold here.I'm on Vancouver Island in British Columbia.
    Any comments appreciated,by the way,the truck will pull the load but is limited to the very high temp and haveto pull over and let her cool down at about 1200 revs.On the flats or moderate grades it goes great in overdrive.
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    mdamickmdamick Member Posts: 277
    What kind of readings are you getting?
    I added an aux radiator that seems to help the engine temps on mine.
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    arvmanarvman Member Posts: 95
    the temp guage was just below red line.got a cooler and will put it in this week.It cals to be put in in series with existing cooler so we'll see how it goes.Can't see the oil cooler pressure being much to worry about.
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    nescosmonescosmo Member Posts: 453
    Caribou1 nice to hear from you. I want to ask you a ?.

    I got ready of the air in my fuel by Installing a Master pump(E8012) that I bought in AutoZone, it was very in expensive but what a change in the CRD, it run like silk.
    Well now I want to replace that 10 micron filter with a nice Racor (245R122) but the problem is that the plugs for the heater and the heat sensor are males, now where can I get the female for those plugs or what numbers they are. I do not want to hotwired them.

    Nescosmo........
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    caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Hi nescosmo,
    My truck MY2003 came with the Racor system off the assembly line.
    Both heater and water sensor connections are vital in our case.

    If you buy the complete Racor filter, ask for the proper connectors to be supplied with the transparent filter bowl. I think it's best to change your connections because this heater draws enough current to make me worry about a "cheap patch".

    So far, this is good material. I change my fuel filter cartridge every 25,000 miles. I never had any improvement after putting the new filter, and I never saw any water in the bowl in 5 years. But fuel quality depends of the distributor (here at least) and I've had excellent normal diesel from Shell. I don't use their "V-Power" because I don't see any difference. I think the automatic transmission absorbs the "early torque" a better fuel can provide due to the programming of it's shifting sequence.

    But my red top Optima battery went without a warning after 4 years and 9 months. This is what people expect from a cheap battery over here. I installed a heavy duty diesel battery instead and noticed the battery receptacle is molded to the size of the Optima 50AH 815 CCA :mad: A replacement battery of the same footprint (size) will give about 60% of the cold cranking Amps value.
    This is to say that we should never go off road after the warranty of this battery expires. I didn't pay attention to this because my other vehicles have Japanese batteries, and they outlast my memory.
    And don't forget your code for the radio system We should keep it on a sticker underneath the battery ;)
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    jimhemijimhemi Member Posts: 223
    Thanks. That's where I went. Bought the 5yr 100K deal with a $50 deductable. Lord knows I will need it. Thanks again for all of your help.
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    lakelvrlakelvr Member Posts: 21
    Anyone: Need some advice again. 05 CRD/48K

    After the dealer tech had replaced EGR valve the CEL was on and he read a fuel code of some sort so he changed the fuel filter and the light went out. Twice now the CEL light has come on but goes out after I pump the filter pump a few times. Also, the mileage has dropped from 30+ down to 22 with the new EGR valve. I talked to the tech and he has no clue until he can run diagnostics. Would appreciate any input.
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    gormanpgormanp Member Posts: 9
    There's a lot of posts relating to fuel problems of one sort or another. It appears that in this engine the boost pressure sensor gets fouled with deposits from diesel fuel and eventually gives you a CEL that leads to repair or replacement of EGR, fuel filter, etc. I'm going to suggest that you have them take a look at your boost pressure sensor. (Or take a look at it yourself.) It can be replaced, or simply cleaned and put back. That might solve your problem.
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    nescosmonescosmo Member Posts: 453
    If you are incline on mechanics do not play any more with this dealer mechanics, all they doing is change parts. Do not full around with the EGR just do the SERG and many of your issues will go away. About the air in the filter read my post above.

    Nescosmo.
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    nescosmonescosmo Member Posts: 453
    Caribou1 I wll do that; also because I install a fuel pump, I install a fuel gage- with the 2 micron filter- I want to see when the filter will have a restriction. I wll let you know how it will work after a few hundredth miles.

    Nescosmo.
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    leejrflaleejrfla Member Posts: 8
    No advice on the egr situation but how were you getting such great fuel economy. I have never achieved over 20 to 21 is your liberty a stick?. Whats your secret?
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    05crdjeep05crdjeep Member Posts: 59
    WIth a diesel in the summer you should be getting 29-31 highway and 19-22 city. My friend Karen has a gasser and is lucky to pull 20 highway.

    Diesels are only automatics.
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    nescosmonescosmo Member Posts: 453
    Leejrfla I didn't do this at one time it took me some time to do all of these things.
    My CRD get 25 city and 32 to 34 highway and this what I did.
    1- The SEGR
    2- Replaced the muffler with a Dynomax D2219392.
    3- Install the Provent.
    3- Replace the Air intake box with a 1992 or 93 gaser air box.
    4- Install the TranGo Kit #HD2 on the Tranny.
    5- Did the IN motion for the Computer.
    5- Install a Master fuel Pump from Autozone #E8012S.
    6- And now Install a Racor fuel filter #245R122 that come will a heater for the fuel .
    7- Install on the Racor an Omega TH-44004-1/4 NPT-18 Temp Sensor.

    I put 2 Cycle TC-Wc3 oil in the fuel to at 1 once per gallon for lubrication and smoothness in the engine.

    And one day I will install the Suncoast 545RFE-CRD-1 TC on the tranny and maybe the Pump too.

    My CRD run like a silk and the power is great.

    Love This Tractor.............

    Nescosmo..........
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    mdamickmdamick Member Posts: 277
    1. What difference did you notice with the HD2?
    2. What is the In Motion for the computer?
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    mdamickmdamick Member Posts: 277
    Has anyone found a good replacement for these?
    I just replaced both on mine-$250 and they gave me a 10% discount!
    They are the same hoses and I know I will start losing them in about 1.5 years.
    My pickup has 15 years and 237000 miles and the metal pipes with rubber connectors have never given any problems.
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    nescosmonescosmo Member Posts: 453
    mdamick.... There is a company out of england the they sell them; The name is Samco and the price is about 300.00 Retail price. they have a company here that is taken care of this issue. The phone # 877-836-6155.
    I think that the part #s are: T/B part# 55037729AC. Turbocharged Intercooler TB-2459 Part# 55037730AC or AD checked it out. It is life time.

    Nescosmo.....
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    winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Install the TranGo Kit #HD2 on the Tranny.

    I am considering installing this in the trans of my CRD. What impact has this had on the performance of the transmission?
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    winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    I have discovered an interesting trick to prolong the life of the hoses in question. As I recall, the hoses usually fail at the hot ends, namely at the turbocharger and at the intake. Before I apply the hoses, I clean everything thoroughly and then apply a layer of gasket cement to the inside of the hose as far as the applicator will reach and on the metal attachment points too. I use either Indian Head Shellac or Permatex Form-a-Gasket. Let dry for several minutes, put on the hose(s), and clamp in place. The gasket cement insulates the hose from some of the engine heat and protects it from the effects of the hot oil vapors within the hoses.
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    patfrankpatfrank Member Posts: 1
    thstranger hope you found your solenoid filter is it on top of motor or do you have to take skid plate off can't find mine-2006 cdr
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    nescosmonescosmo Member Posts: 453
    On mine before the replacement my tranny went from 1st to 3er or overdrive. well what I means is that it use to skip shifting all the time. I never felt the 2ed.

    With the TrasGo you go from 1st to 2en and so on without skiping one.

    If you replace the shifter do not install the resistor if you do the shifting is very hard.

    Now if you replace the TC and Pump then you could install the resistor.

    Nescosmo....
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    winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Nescomo,

    Thanks for the info. I intend to get this kit and install it in the next few months, resistor included. Frankly, I prefer a good firm and fast shift as there is less friction and less heat produced. Both heat and friction reduce trans life.
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    broloubrolou Member Posts: 1
    While driving my crd on the highway lost power, it felt like I was draging an anchor. There wasn't any bucking or shuddering it just had no acceleration. Could get the truck up to 75 mph but going up any type of grade would slow it dramaticly. With the Jeep in neutral the rpm won't go over 3000 even when the throttle is floored. Let the truck sit for 4 hours then took it to work, a 45 minute highway drive with no problems. Was wondering if it's something I should be worried about, or if anyone has had any similar problems.
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    lakelvrlakelvr Member Posts: 21
    I have no idea why I get the mileage. I recently got 27.5 on a 250 mi. trip and just changed air filter and will check again today on a 150 mi trip. I do drive mostly on the flat at 1750rpm/5th gear. However I got 27mpg on a 4500 mi. trip that was on the flat, in the mountains and in cities, which overall I thought was very good, and then came the dreaded EGR. I'm guessing that a knowledgable diesel mechanic (which I am not) is essential if you are having problems of any sort.
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    leejrflaleejrfla Member Posts: 8
    Are you driving at 65 mph? and is your CRD 4x4?
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    mdamickmdamick Member Posts: 277
    My guess is the EGR turned on.
    It will do that.
    When mine did it, it usually stalled.
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    mdamickmdamick Member Posts: 277
    Thanks, I will try that.
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    caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Hi mdamick,
    Keep in mind that the turbo hoses are AFTER THE FILTER. Any solid material getting loose can interfere between a valve and it's seat.

    I've been wondering why you guys have this sort of problem; I have the impression it's because your (intake air and exhaust gas) EGR mixing flap lets too much pressure build up when the engine is turned off. My hoses often swet oil but never needed any attention so far.
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