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Jeep Liberty Diesel

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    nescosmonescosmo Member Posts: 453
    As carabao said it is your CAC hoses you have to tie your hoses real hard or otherwise will turn itself loose when oil is present.

    Nescosmo.
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    nescosmonescosmo Member Posts: 453
    Clean your Map sensor and your air intake flapper. with carb cleaner. Also disconnect your battery cable so your computer reset itself.

    Nescosmo....
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    winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Caribou,

    The gasket cements I use have been around for many, many years. I have used these cements on water pump gaskets, transmission gaskets and the like without a single problem for more than thirty-five years. This material does not get completely hard but is semi-flexible. It is impervious to any fuel, oil, antifreeze and works in temperatures up to 400 degrees F .

    In your second paragraph, the issue is that our emissions requirements are stricter than those in the EU. There is a valve, CCVC that needs to be replaced from time to time. It lives on the valve cover. According to the tech, it cannot be serviced or cleaned. The tech stated that keeping the boost sensor clean helps the most and that it should be cleaned at each oil change.
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    mdamickmdamick Member Posts: 277
    If the engine is off it won't build up any pressure.
    It is probably the oil that the engine releases into the turbo through the valve and the long trips. I can start it for a trip and not turn the engine off for 4+ hours.
    I may try to get some conduit bent to the right angles later on.
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    caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Winter2, I think you refer to "liquid gasket", I used the blue version a long time ago. Now I use clear silicon from time to time.
    The bad one in our case had a reddish color. It became hard with time.
    I also have the closed crank case ventilation valve. I believe I can open mine and clean it's filter made of steel wool.
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    winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Caribou,

    The label on the container states that the gasket material will not harden and in all the years I have used it, it remains semi-firm and flexible, even after many tens of thousands of miles. It has never flaked off or peeled off any surface to which I have applied it.

    As to the CCVC, the one on my CRD has a flapper valve in it and no steel wool mesh.
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    muffinmantxmuffinmantx Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 Liberty CRD with 78K miles. It’s driven mostly on the highway with very few in town miles. Have done regular oil changes about every 3000 miles. No major problems with it except a torque converter issue early in its life. At about 76K, I started to smell diesel in the interior especially when stopped at a light. Also, after parking and getting out, I could smell diesel around the left front side of the car. I had the fuel filter replaced but the smell is still there. I can’t find or see any diesel leaking from the filter or surrounding area. My mileage has dropped only slightly, 1-2 mpg but it is difficult to tell if this is significant due to headwinds/tailwinds and running the AC. When I took it to the dealer for the fuel filter, I mentioned the smell…of course, they couldn’t smell anything. They supposedly checked the fuel system, etc and didn’t detect any leaks.

    Any ideas about what is going on?
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    caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    You may not have a leak but simply a spill of fuel onto your firewall. The smell should disappear after a week :)
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    arvmanarvman Member Posts: 95
    Does anyone know if a bigger rad can be jammed into the c.r.d.?
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    mdamickmdamick Member Posts: 277
    I am not sure about a bigger one, but I recently found that if you close the 2" gap between the radiator and intercooler underneath it cools better.
    I also added a 4 row aux radiator in front of the fan and that helped also.
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    arvmanarvman Member Posts: 95
    I've put in a tranny cooler in front of the intercooler.I think I will be looking at a summer hood with a scoop in front and louvres near the top rear to get more air flow and get rid of excess heat.I do a lot of towing over mountains and cooling is the only issue.
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    jspatesjspates Member Posts: 1
    Hello,
    I am having the same problem I bought my jeep approx a year ago and the problems began right away always a cylinder 3 misfire for a code i replaced all 6 engine coils and replaced the sparkplugs all of them 2 times I am now at my wits end my mechanic is telling me that it needs valve work. Could this be true. I had never heard about a injector but it sounds reasonable. Have you gotten yours fixed yet?? Mine needs inspection and I need help. Or have you at least found the exact problem. Thanks for your input Maybe we can figure this out
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    winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Ispates,

    I think you are in the wrong forum. This forum is for the Jeep Liberty CRD (Diesel) and not for the gasoline powered Liberty.
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    johnhayworthjohnhayworth Member Posts: 16
    My son, our neighbor [who was the chief or head machanic for a John Deer dealer] and I have been working with biodeasel and use motor oil for over a year and a half having much success in saving on fuel expenses. I bought a Jeep Liberty Limited 2005 model with CRD last September and have used our processed oil [cleansed with a center fuse] with limited sucess in the Jeep diesel. When the fuel water filter gets 5,000 miles it must be changede or the diesel stalls and will not start. Now after sucessfuly running 10 galons of our cleaned oil on the next 10 gallions the motor is stalling. To start the diesel you must turn the switch off then back on and the motor will start. This means you can see the RPM drop on stalling move transmission to neutral swich inetion off then back on and start the motor move back to drive and keep the Jeep going/motor running. What will corect this?
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    winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    I have a 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD with factory six CD AM-FM radio and six speaker system. I am installing a Sirius satellite radio and would like to power it directly from the radio harness. I would like to connect to the ignition on power wire and the ground wire. What color are they?

    Thanks in advance!!!
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    johnhayworthjohnhayworth Member Posts: 16
    Green is always ground. Red, Black,Blue, Yellow cary current or hot. If you know what color comes from where you stand a chance of fixing your radio. I would find some one with experience to do your job. jdh;-)
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    shizzznitshizzznit Member Posts: 9
    I did the ORM on my 05, the two codes that I am getting are:

    P 0120
    P 0531

    the question is -- are these the appropriate codes that I should be getting
    with the ORM??
    THANKS :D
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    caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Johnhayworth,
    I remember reading the logic inside the ECU imposes to measure temperatures, checks all drive train safety interlocks, launches the starter motor only when the engine is fully stopped and then waits to obtain the smooth running condition. This is why it takes a second or two to "restart the thing" before your solicitations are considered...
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    zellerzeller Member Posts: 9
    My Jeep CRD takes an inordinate amout of cranking to start. I brought it to the Jeep dealer for ERG replacement and tranny recall. This cranking problem was also on the list, maybe they ignored it or thought the ERG issue was the culprit. Any thoughts?
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    zellerzeller Member Posts: 9
    Oh yeah, upon first starting, it also occasionally shudders and stalls halfway down the block. Any answers are appreciated.
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    selby6selby6 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2006 Libby CRD with 30,000 miles. Yesterday, it suddenly lost power and would not exceed about 30 mph. It would srart and idle normally. After the motor had been turned off for a few minutes, it behaved normally. There were no warning lights on. While it was off, I did notice that the oil was quite low and I added a quart. Would this problem be related to the low oil or does this sound like something else? I'm just glad I wasn't on the highway or out of town. Any feedback would be appreciated. Mike
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    arvmanarvman Member Posts: 95
    To answer both of you,try bleeding air from the fuel filter.Also your boost pressure sensor may need to be cleaned.These are quick easy checks.I do the fuel bleed every 2 weeks or if i put on a lot of miles.Do the sensor clean every 3 months or so.Don't know how i still get air in the fuel system ,have checked the lines.MAY BE A LITTLE GREMLIN WITH THE C.R.D.
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    mdamickmdamick Member Posts: 277
    The air may be coming from the fuel filter assembly.
    Mine was replaced under warranty for a miss that they traced to that.
    Other posts indicate that they had a problem with air getting in through the fuel heater plug.
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    arvmanarvman Member Posts: 95
    Was the fault with the metal assy the filter screws into,ie; a crack or bad seal?
    As for the plug was it on the electrical side where wires go to the element or a defect with the plug body,threads?
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    caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    The Parker Racor fuel filter assembly costs little money compared to the trouble or stress you have with a defective unit.
    The same applies with the Red Top Optima battery that didn't give any sign of fatigue and suddenly broke down on me. I fitted a larger heavy duty battery, one size above the footprint of the original Optima. When you look carefully how batteries increase in size, you will notice that the fixing/mounting protrusions located around the bottom of the battery walls can be removed individually to correct the size. In our case the width of the battery was the same but the length was too long and had to be reduced by removing the two 1/2" fixation protrusions. My larger battery now fits into the original holder and uses the original fixation clamp. The electrolyte recuperation and evacuation channels are still functional.

    One thing I noticed: the alternator doesn't jerk anymore, the rattling sound disappeared and I get better mileage :shades:
    I would never have thought removing the Optima battery would optimize the engine :confuse:
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    selby6selby6 Member Posts: 3
    I spoke with the dealer today and they suggested that the "limp home" feature had come on. There was no warning light that came on with it. Any suggestions what might cause the car to slip into "limp home" mode?
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    arvmanarvman Member Posts: 95
    This is a real looooooong shot but check the fuel cap is tight other than what i have said before it needs to be looked at,check codes and go from there...
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    mdamickmdamick Member Posts: 277
    My understanding was the heater element jack on the fuel filter assembly was letting air in.
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    jimhemijimhemi Member Posts: 223
    Sorry to hear. I think this is one of the reasons the manual recommends a Full Synthetic Oil. Bio anything is still untested and unreliable and to use as a source of motor oil seems a bit crazy considering the heat the turbo makes. I would try flushing everything with some Rotella or Mobil One. Good Luck.
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    pttrilliumpttrillium Member Posts: 62
    Ask the dealer if when they did the Torque Converter recall, they replaced the front transmission pump. I had the exact same issue and after several trips to the dealer, we finally were able to reproduce the issue (it had to start cold and sit overnight at the dealer).

    The front pump fixed the problem immediately regarding the stalling.

    I don't know about the excessive cranking issue.
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    pttrilliumpttrillium Member Posts: 62
    There may be a jumper wire you can buy with the clips on it already. I used one to hook up my factory Mopar iPod unit. There is a part number for the wire that allows a Sirius unit to get hooked up and if you have an RBQ radio you can control everything right off the radio and steering wheel controls.

    Unless you have a separate non Mopar unit, in which case you can ignore this advice :)
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    steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Since most of y'all have been through the drill, please come join us and bounce your experiences off the toe in the water crowd:

    Mr_Shiftright, "What Would It Take for YOU to buy a diesel car?" #1, 10 Aug 2008 11:11 am
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    nylibnylib Member Posts: 9
    My '05 Diesel Liberty recently began to over heat when pulling heavy loads up hill. I brought it to the dealer and they re-flashed the transmission.
    With 45,000 miles on it I asked if this is something that was covered by the warrantee ( they charged me a half hour labor, $41). They indicated that there was a service bulliten on the problem but that because I was past my 36,000 mi warrantee I would have to foot the bill.
    Is this typical?
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    digger12digger12 Member Posts: 5
    they are going to have the liberty diesel? :confuse: i sat in the liberty sport and the other model, and felt LEAVE WELL ENOUGH ALONE the tape and cd player is really nice.
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    pttrilliumpttrillium Member Posts: 62
    Unfortunately yes. I have a brake clunk that they want mint to 'fix'. There was a TSB on it and if I'd complained about it earlier, it would've been covered. So I just let it clunk now.

    Are you sure they reflashed the tranny? I had a TSB for overheating and they reprogrammed the instrument cluster. Apparently when the gauge gets above half way the rest of the distance to hot started to read exponentially not incrementally. So a couple notches above half way read as overheating. In reality, it was not really overheating. Since the reprogram TSB I have not had an issue.

    If they didn't reprogram the cluster and it still appear to overheat, I think they owe you the fix for no additional charge. My opinion. Good luck.
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    mngolfermngolfer Member Posts: 18
    Mil lamp came on again. Checked the code and it is P0401, so probably the EGR again.
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    gormanpgormanp Member Posts: 9
    What's your boost pressure sensor look like? Other posts suggest this may be the problem with some of the CRDs.
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    mngolfermngolfer Member Posts: 18
    EGR valve and throttle valve were replaced. This was the 3rd EGR and the 2nd throttle valve. Even though we have 38K miles and beyond the 3/36 warranty, both were covered by the dealer as warranty. Jeep ran fine with the Mil lamp on.
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    lakelvrlakelvr Member Posts: 21
    Zller:
    My '05 (50k) does this now after EGR replacement and about (15) pumps on the fuel filter enables it to restart. No pumping, no starting. It stalls shortly after srart up and does it about twice a month. I'm trying to rev it up a little before moving to insure (?) fuel flow and possibly avert the problem.
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    nescosmonescosmo Member Posts: 453
    All of you will have to go to LOST forum to learn how to fix all of this issues. Things like EGR, FCV, and air in the fuel filter is a thing of the past.

    Nescosmo
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    crash227crash227 Member Posts: 46
    Does anyone know where I can buy a good repair manual for my '06 Jeep Liberty CRD? I bought my Jeep new in '06 and it now has 50k miles on it. Now that the 3/36 warranty is long gone, I am doing my own maintenance and repairs when I can. I have had some of the problems discussed in this Forum but I am still pretty happy with my Jeep. I get 27 MPG Hwy at 75 MPH and about 20 MPG city with mostly rush hour commuting and this has been pretty consistent for the two years I have had it.
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    steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    You might find access to one at your local library - check the Online Repair Manuals guide for some links.

    You can buy a factory manual for your Jeep through Tech Authority On-Line.

    Some owners can probably recommend some others (Haines?).
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    crash227crash227 Member Posts: 46
    Necosmo, I've read quite a few of your posts and you seem to have a good handle on Liberty CRD issues. While my Jeep was still under warranty, I had it in the shop a half-dozen times for a SEL that ended up being the turbo boost pressure sensor each time. They replaced it a few times and may have cleaned it a few other times, but of course they never told me that it needs to be cleaned regularly. I plan to clean it the next time I change the oil. I'll also drain the fuel filter the next time I change the oil. Hopefully, I can find a good repair manual by then.
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    emp2emp2 Member Posts: 20
    Crash if you search the LOST forum there was a manual that you could down load free.
    Factory manual was over a $100 last I checked . If you have a problem finding it get back to me I may be able to help .
    EMP2
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    johnhayworthjohnhayworth Member Posts: 16
    PLease send more information on the CRD Repaair Manual.Thanks ;-)jdh
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    arvmanarvman Member Posts: 95
    I have that manual on c.d.It is in adobe format but I don't know if/how I can download it to this site,might be too big.Try doing a google search for it too.
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    mrmag00mrmag00 Member Posts: 16
    John: There was a previous message..... Here is the link.... Be patient as it
    takes awhile for it to download...... Enjoy....

    http://colorado4wheel.com/allmanuals/Jeep/KJ/KJ_04-06_CRD_FSM/2006/2006-KJ-SM.pd- f
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    crash227crash227 Member Posts: 46
    Thanks for the response. I've checked for Chilton & Haynes repair manuals but they are only available through 2004 for he Liberty. I checked out the Jeep Service Manuals and was happy to find the CD version for under $100.00 that I plan to buy soon. I knew the hard copy was about $400.00 and did not want to spend that much.
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    crash227crash227 Member Posts: 46
    Thanks. That is a great service manual.
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    lightnin3lightnin3 Member Posts: 153
    I just brought my 05' Liberty 2.8L diesel in the shop , she was running rough after work one day I heard a "POP !" under the hood.
    When I brought it into , my Expertly trained and talented mechanic at the dealer,he looked it over and determined it was the intake vacuum tube on the throttle body that popped off.
    But also found 2 other items off the scanner computer , when he plugged it in.
    The EGR controller was shot, and 2 glow plugs were shorted. Whew ! no wonder she was running rough.
    They had the parts within a day,shipped in from a central warehouse. and fixed me up in 2 days .Now she runs like a top.
    I asked a good question to him.." how do I avoid this again?"
    In his opinion he explained that we have dirty fuel and to start using premium diesel or Bio-diesel .Also to drive once a month at least 50 miles on the hyway to clean her out.Since you have been in the city for 8 monthes now she is carboning up in the EGR housing and that is damaging the EGR system. Eventually contributing to running rough and smoking a lot.
    The other suggestion is to avoid this cost bring her in once a year to get a scan test, to see what codes come up.And a preventitive cleaning on the inside EGR housing to clean the soot out to function properly.
    Kind of like tune up.
    If yo ulet it go too far you end up liek me having to pay a $1200 bill. glow plugs run $60 a piece..ouch ! but I heard that is a typical price for them.
    Well good luck ..
    Lightnin....
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