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Nescosmo.
Nescosmo....
The gasket cements I use have been around for many, many years. I have used these cements on water pump gaskets, transmission gaskets and the like without a single problem for more than thirty-five years. This material does not get completely hard but is semi-flexible. It is impervious to any fuel, oil, antifreeze and works in temperatures up to 400 degrees F .
In your second paragraph, the issue is that our emissions requirements are stricter than those in the EU. There is a valve, CCVC that needs to be replaced from time to time. It lives on the valve cover. According to the tech, it cannot be serviced or cleaned. The tech stated that keeping the boost sensor clean helps the most and that it should be cleaned at each oil change.
It is probably the oil that the engine releases into the turbo through the valve and the long trips. I can start it for a trip and not turn the engine off for 4+ hours.
I may try to get some conduit bent to the right angles later on.
The bad one in our case had a reddish color. It became hard with time.
I also have the closed crank case ventilation valve. I believe I can open mine and clean it's filter made of steel wool.
The label on the container states that the gasket material will not harden and in all the years I have used it, it remains semi-firm and flexible, even after many tens of thousands of miles. It has never flaked off or peeled off any surface to which I have applied it.
As to the CCVC, the one on my CRD has a flapper valve in it and no steel wool mesh.
Any ideas about what is going on?
I also added a 4 row aux radiator in front of the fan and that helped also.
I am having the same problem I bought my jeep approx a year ago and the problems began right away always a cylinder 3 misfire for a code i replaced all 6 engine coils and replaced the sparkplugs all of them 2 times I am now at my wits end my mechanic is telling me that it needs valve work. Could this be true. I had never heard about a injector but it sounds reasonable. Have you gotten yours fixed yet?? Mine needs inspection and I need help. Or have you at least found the exact problem. Thanks for your input Maybe we can figure this out
I think you are in the wrong forum. This forum is for the Jeep Liberty CRD (Diesel) and not for the gasoline powered Liberty.
Thanks in advance!!!
P 0120
P 0531
the question is -- are these the appropriate codes that I should be getting
with the ORM??
THANKS
I remember reading the logic inside the ECU imposes to measure temperatures, checks all drive train safety interlocks, launches the starter motor only when the engine is fully stopped and then waits to obtain the smooth running condition. This is why it takes a second or two to "restart the thing" before your solicitations are considered...
Mine was replaced under warranty for a miss that they traced to that.
Other posts indicate that they had a problem with air getting in through the fuel heater plug.
As for the plug was it on the electrical side where wires go to the element or a defect with the plug body,threads?
The same applies with the Red Top Optima battery that didn't give any sign of fatigue and suddenly broke down on me. I fitted a larger heavy duty battery, one size above the footprint of the original Optima. When you look carefully how batteries increase in size, you will notice that the fixing/mounting protrusions located around the bottom of the battery walls can be removed individually to correct the size. In our case the width of the battery was the same but the length was too long and had to be reduced by removing the two 1/2" fixation protrusions. My larger battery now fits into the original holder and uses the original fixation clamp. The electrolyte recuperation and evacuation channels are still functional.
One thing I noticed: the alternator doesn't jerk anymore, the rattling sound disappeared and I get better mileage :shades:
I would never have thought removing the Optima battery would optimize the engine :confuse:
The front pump fixed the problem immediately regarding the stalling.
I don't know about the excessive cranking issue.
Unless you have a separate non Mopar unit, in which case you can ignore this advice
Mr_Shiftright, "What Would It Take for YOU to buy a diesel car?" #1, 10 Aug 2008 11:11 am
With 45,000 miles on it I asked if this is something that was covered by the warrantee ( they charged me a half hour labor, $41). They indicated that there was a service bulliten on the problem but that because I was past my 36,000 mi warrantee I would have to foot the bill.
Is this typical?
Are you sure they reflashed the tranny? I had a TSB for overheating and they reprogrammed the instrument cluster. Apparently when the gauge gets above half way the rest of the distance to hot started to read exponentially not incrementally. So a couple notches above half way read as overheating. In reality, it was not really overheating. Since the reprogram TSB I have not had an issue.
If they didn't reprogram the cluster and it still appear to overheat, I think they owe you the fix for no additional charge. My opinion. Good luck.
My '05 (50k) does this now after EGR replacement and about (15) pumps on the fuel filter enables it to restart. No pumping, no starting. It stalls shortly after srart up and does it about twice a month. I'm trying to rev it up a little before moving to insure (?) fuel flow and possibly avert the problem.
Nescosmo
You can buy a factory manual for your Jeep through Tech Authority On-Line.
Some owners can probably recommend some others (Haines?).
Factory manual was over a $100 last I checked . If you have a problem finding it get back to me I may be able to help .
EMP2
takes awhile for it to download...... Enjoy....
http://colorado4wheel.com/allmanuals/Jeep/KJ/KJ_04-06_CRD_FSM/2006/2006-KJ-SM.pd- f
When I brought it into , my Expertly trained and talented mechanic at the dealer,he looked it over and determined it was the intake vacuum tube on the throttle body that popped off.
But also found 2 other items off the scanner computer , when he plugged it in.
The EGR controller was shot, and 2 glow plugs were shorted. Whew ! no wonder she was running rough.
They had the parts within a day,shipped in from a central warehouse. and fixed me up in 2 days .Now she runs like a top.
I asked a good question to him.." how do I avoid this again?"
In his opinion he explained that we have dirty fuel and to start using premium diesel or Bio-diesel .Also to drive once a month at least 50 miles on the hyway to clean her out.Since you have been in the city for 8 monthes now she is carboning up in the EGR housing and that is damaging the EGR system. Eventually contributing to running rough and smoking a lot.
The other suggestion is to avoid this cost bring her in once a year to get a scan test, to see what codes come up.And a preventitive cleaning on the inside EGR housing to clean the soot out to function properly.
Kind of like tune up.
If yo ulet it go too far you end up liek me having to pay a $1200 bill. glow plugs run $60 a piece..ouch ! but I heard that is a typical price for them.
Well good luck ..
Lightnin....