Jeep Liberty Diesel

1198199201203204224

Comments

  • biobobbiobob Member Posts: 11
    The radiator fan doesn't appear to be turning, and the sound is closer to the engine block, above the motor, half way back, closer to the fuel filter.
  • sthogesthoge Member Posts: 28
    I think they could be related. If your glowplugs are not working correcly, then you could be starting up with one or more cylinders cold which would result in unburned fuel causing the white smoke. At least that's what I would expect, especially when it goes away once it warms up.
  • mdamickmdamick Member Posts: 277
    It is probably the EGR flow control valve.
    It comes on when the engine is shut off and then times out.
    It does sound like a fan whine..
  • biobobbiobob Member Posts: 11
    Hmmmm... Thanks for the feed back. What does the EGR flow control valve regulate? And where is it located, in relation to the fuel filter and engine block?
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    If the exhaust has a sweet odor to it, there is a reasonably good chance that you may have a bad head gasket. Have you checked the antifreeze level in the overflow tank?
  • mdamickmdamick Member Posts: 277
    It closes off the turbo feed to let the exhaust gas flow into the intake manifold.
    It is directly forward and 5" below the filter. The intercooler hose feeds directly into it.
  • lakelvrlakelvr Member Posts: 21
    Nick:
    I have had this problem usually after startup and less than a couple of blocks travel with my 05/50k CRD. I pump the fuel filter 12-15 strokes and the car starts and runs for another 3-4 months flawlessly. Can't remember the last time it happened.
    Good luck!
    Jim
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    So you are getting air in the fuel injection system?

    Are you filling a near empty fuel tank with the engine running? Do not as you will suck in air.

    Are all of the hose clamps at the fuel filter snug? Are the hoses in good shape? What about the fuel lines? If any of those clamps are loose, air will get in.

    Also, instead of pumping 12 - 15 strokes, pump the fuel 20 strokes it takes to purge the air back into the fuel tank and out of the filter..
  • captjohn22captjohn22 Member Posts: 1
    Disconnect the wires at the top of the fuel filter, then pump the priming pump. Look for fuel leaking out of the wire connectors.
    I am replacing the second filter housing in three years due to this leak. The first time this happened the car would start then stall. Repriming would get it started and it would run until shut off for a while..
  • mikemike2mikemike2 Member Posts: 1
    I just got a 2005 jeep liberty. It seems have the same issue as yours. The type 41 light will turn on after I use the 4H mode. Mine is calibrated by kilometers as well. I was wondering how is your unit now. It seems not much people got the type 41 which make me very worried. Thanks.
  • mngolfermngolfer Member Posts: 18
    That is not a light at the bottom of the speedometer. It may appear to be illuminated, but is not.
  • 05crdjeep05crdjeep Member Posts: 59
    I'll second that. It's not a light. It just identifies the type of instrument cluster. I have seen it 'light up' and in some circumstances, you're right it looks lit.
  • fustfust Member Posts: 29
    Has any one replaced there timing belt yet I was qouted $ 2000.00 to replace the belt , water pump, and tensioner. Just wondering if this price is normal or I was quoted more than I need Thank-you.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Fust,
    - I paid an equivalent amount without replacement of the water pump.
    - My two aluminum a/c pipes were rubbing against the steel structure above the radiator because they haven't removed the shroud to do the service.
    - The engine was making much more rattling noise after this service and I had to get a new battery then recently another alternator.

    Now the truck runs fine, but I spent nearly 3,000 USD to keep it going since January 2008.

    Farout: do you read this?
  • mdamickmdamick Member Posts: 277
    Why did they want to replace the water pump?
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    I think they are just trying to stay afloat.
  • fustfust Member Posts: 29
    They said that by replacing the water pump now it would save on labor because you basically have to remove the belt again to replace the pump and there would be no extra labour charges if done know , the cost of the water pump was $350.00.Not sure if it worth the risk,has anyone replaced there timing belt and water pump at the same time Thanks.
  • mdamickmdamick Member Posts: 277
    How many miles do you have on your CRD?
    I have 128000 on the stock fan and timing belts.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Can you guys imagine that Chrysler / Jeep impose to change the timing belt at 60,000 miles here? Automobile manufacturers in the EU consider maintenance as a source of pension :mad:
    Asian manufacturers are doing well because of a different consumer approach. We will soon see which attitude survives.
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    Caribou1: Yes French Friend I did indeed read your post. I read these post's often. I feel bad so many of you have experienced the high dollar repairs. OUCH, that just gota hurt bunches!

    I kinda kept up on resale value of the CRD in the NADA book. The CRD has taken a big hit. But in all fairness every vehicle in the auto auction have taken a dump. Our son has a used vehicle dealers buyers permit for the big auctions. Heck our 2007 Chrysler pacifica AWD Touring is worth about 1/2 half of what we owe on it. The huge difference between the Pacifica and the CRD is we really like the Pacifica and the low cost of keeping it up. We consistently get 22 to 25 mpg and with 28,700 miles it is perfect for us. Gasoline here is $1.69 a gallon and diesel is $ 2.65 so that is one thing I don't miss is the extra money for diesel. How is the price there?

    The economy is a scary thing here for a good number of folks. Unless the "Big Three" get some $ real soon I think we are headed for deeper financial troubles, that most likely spread to many other countries. When dealers can't finance the cars to put on the lots, and buyers are less likely to be able to get financing that means real trouble. Even with the US giving the $ for the big three, unless people can get $ to purchase the vehicles the Big Three will be dead in the water. I am glad I don't earn a living selling vehicles!

    Hows the economy in France? Hope you and yours are doing well.

    farout, but still near......lol
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Hi farout,
    We're in the same mess ;)
    I try to buy stuff ahead of time because good things are getting scarce. Less $, less offer, less customers, and what happens when you're missing a replacement part? You're stuck.
    As we discussed a long time ago on this forum, automobile parts are common and are made everywhere. If the big three don't survive, we all loose.

    Someone made the following comment today:
    - The Chinese replaced their bicycles by automobiles,
    - In Paris, the mayor is replacing our automobiles by bicycles :shades:
  • mdamickmdamick Member Posts: 277
    Our book says 100000 mi.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Ours may have been translated by someone who doesn't know what "mi" stands for :blush:
  • siberiasiberia Member Posts: 520
    It is standard procedure on VW TDIs to change the belts, idlers, belt tensioner, water pump and bolts with every timing belt change. Complete kits can be bought for around $300 that include everything needed. Depending on the mechanic (independent or dealership) the cost ranges from, say, $600 to $1500. The argument is that most water pumps will run 100k miles but many will not run 200k miles. $2,000 for timing belt, water pump, etc replacement may be some what reasonable for a CRD.

    A fiend owns a Honda CRV and has spent $1,500 for each timing belt / water pump change so some gas engines that need timing belt changes are not cheap. I think a lot of gas cars are just driven without concern for timing belt changes and if the belt doesn't break fine. If the belt does break the car is approaching it's useful life anyway and the response of the owner to the mechanic is, What's a timing belt and why did it destroy my engine? :sick:

    The expectation of diesel owners is that the engines will run much longer so the timing belts (should) get better attention.
  • siberiasiberia Member Posts: 520
    It would be nice to know what is the mean and standard deviation of timing belt failures found during testing. Timing belts don't really fail due to miles (exactly), they fail due to load, hours, age, contamination, operating temperature, original quality and the like.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Hello Farout,

    Nice to see you post again. I see you are enjoying your Pacifica.

    My CRD is doing reasonably well. The weak link is the torque converter. If it fails again, it gets an aftermarket (Suncoast) TC, a trans kit and that should be the end of transmission issues.

    Frankly, I am happy that I have hung onto my CRD. It has been very reliable and the dealer I have been using has been fabulous. Their tech has taught me a few tricks to help maintain my CRD properly.

    As for the cost of diesel, I last paid $2.559 cash. Fuel economy has remained quite good with mixed city highway at 23 MPG and straight highway between 29 - 31 MPG. In spite of the higher fuel cost, the CRD is significantly cheaper to drive than the gas counterpart.

    In January, my wife and I will be driving to Florida with the CRD. Her 1998 Chrysler Concorde with 2.7 L V-6 gets 28 MPG on the road but she finds the CRD safer and more comfortable. The CRD also has better pulling power at high speeds than the Chrysler.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Hi siberia,
    I think we have common conditions in the case of the timing belt:
    - load cannot change significantly because camshafts acceleration is limited by the ECU (limitation of the acceleration value) and the effort to turn the water pump is negligible,
    - temperature is defined by the thermostat,
    - outdoor aging is generally related to UV exposure and material fatigue (total bends/folds in a given environment). The belt is protected from UV light, but the engine temperature creates the stable condition for deterioration.
    - original component quality is usually excellent.

    I don't know many people who take time to understand what's going on :confuse:
  • bcnailbcnail Member Posts: 10
    My 2005 CRD has nearly 49,000 miles. Last night I put the transfer case into full time 4wheel drive. Today when I shifted out of full time to 2wheel drive it refused to go beyond part time 4 wheel drive. I push the lever all the way down but the dash display says "part time" and the car drives as if it is in part time. I have played around with the lever but it still will not go into 2 wheel drive. I have never had this happen before. :cry: Any ideas?
  • johnhayworthjohnhayworth Member Posts: 16
    When placing the transmission into or out of 4 wheal {I do this for all changed} stop on an incline so the Liberty can roll back when placed in nutria. Let it roll back a couple of feet then place transmission into or out of gear. Finding this has made mine work every time. I hope it works for YOUALL! :)
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    I just go into reverse for a short period of time then back into 'Drive'. This allows the transmission to unlatch the transfer case differential when it stays stuck in 'Part Time' mode.
    You can easily test the transfer case shifter with the engine turned off. On flat ground, put the transmission in 'Park' then manipulate the transfer case shifter into all positions. To help shifting, you can either move the Jeep using one foot on the ground (if you're tall enough) or someone can help you from outside the vehicle.
  • mdamickmdamick Member Posts: 277
    While driving I shift into neutral and then shift the transfer case.
    When I go into drive I sometimes hear a clunk as it shifts.
    Works most of the time.
  • siberiasiberia Member Posts: 520
    Hi Caribou1,

    I don't know many people who take time to understand what's going on :confuse:

    I can not tell whether this is a veiled insult or a weak compliment so I take it as a veiled compliment. ;)

    I’m not willing to accept an argument that someone who accelerates hard all the time vs. someone who accelerates leisurely puts the same load on their timing belt especially with the firmer shifts that occur under high power. I agree that (belt) temperature is mostly defined by water temperature but my Scanguage indicates a range of 35 F coolant operating temperature between winter and summer weather and I don’t see the range in temps that would exist between, say, Canada and Arizona.

    I’m willing to wave away the original component quality argument as it applies to the Liberty ball joints and the cheesy mechanism used in the power windows and accept that initial quality of the timing belt is excellent since VM Motori may have made that decision. However, given the shelf life issue of “new” tires and understanding that timing belts are made of somewhat different materials than tires, I would personally not buy a timing belt off the shelf that I knew was 10 years old unless it was the only one available.

    I actually do not drive my CRD much in the city, but consider a hypothetical CRD that has my daily commute that almost never exits the city. My Scanguage average speed in the city is around 15 mph. Now consider my actual CRD that is almost never driven in the city. My weighted Scanguage average speed is around 50 mph including some suburban driving. At 100k miles the city CRD hypothetically has around 6,700 hours on the timing belt and the highway CRD has around 2,000 hours on the timing belt. The highway CRD belt has the additional advantage of less time spent idling and suffering the severe impulse torque of the 4 cylinder diesel and the average rpm (arguably) may not be much different between the two CRDs.

    So, 100k mile timing belt change based on some assumed mix that fits most drivers seems a bit arbitrary, yes? Is this not why some sophisticated vehicles keep track of their own oil changes (but for different criteria)?
  • siberiasiberia Member Posts: 520
    Hi Bcnail,

    The internal shift mechanism in the CRD transfer case is spring loaded. This allows the control lever to be moved to a new position and the shift to occur later when the parts are in alignment and not under any load. This is why you need to shift between forward and reverse, or shift to neutral or just let up on the pedal when moving with the wheel straight ahead for the shift to occur.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Hi Siberia,
    - Industrial timing belts are designed to operate between -30C and +80C.
    - Most flat belts have a continuous wire core of steel or glass fiber spooled side to side across the width of the pulley on one layer only.

    By design, such a product should be able to survive 10,000,000 oscillations under full load at maximum temperature, given a bending radius of ~10 times the wire diameter.
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fatigue_(material)

    It seems these belts suffer more from chemical and mechanical degradation rather than mechanical fatigue because we usually reach practically two orders of magnitude above the 10^7 value, and their bending radius on the engine is much larger than what the specification calls for. So yes, I clearly agree with you concerning the arbitrary approach, or should we call this a nasty commercial approach or even extortion of one's savings?

    I would see the oil change and type of driving tracking to evaluate the achieved acidity/alteration of the oil, as long as someone tells the computer the type of oil used; but a normal citizen doesn't need this.
  • siberiasiberia Member Posts: 520
    The issue, if there is one, is not the operating range of the timing belt but whether or not temperature within the operating range affects belt life. You seem to be trying to prove something that I am not arguing with.

    See page 7:

    http://www.brad.ac.uk/acad/msceqi/EPSRC/downloads/timing_belt.pdf
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Higher operating temperature induces premature ageing of the polymer material.
    The symptom of this ageing is a loss of plasticity due to cross reticulation (cracking) of the belt. When the belt looses part of it's original material (substrate) performance it is rapidly affected by mechanical and chemical aggressions.

    Temperature and UVs (a, b, c) play the same role in this case.

    I would look towards an addition of Silicon and Silica. Silicon resists quite well to radiation (X + Gamma rays) and Silica resists well to wear (tire application).

    The "Discussion and Conclusions" (P8) of the article you refer to converge well with the cross reticulation approach. This is typical of composite materials :cry:
  • jek443jek443 Member Posts: 12
    Thanks, I think you are correct.

    I have another issue. I had the starscan dianog on my Jeep a week ago. One of the codes that came back was an underpowered turbo. I asked if perhaps a clogged fuel filter might cause the code, they said it was possible. so I replaced the fuel filter. The Jeep ran better immediately; however, once I got about 15 miles down the road (running about 70mph w/ cruise control on), I would lose ppower going over overepasses: I had the cruise set @ 70mph and the jeep slowed down to 65mph -- normally, I would hit these overpasses w/ no lose in power.

    I can turn the Jeep off, wait about 5 miniutes and and hit the gas and the Jeep is quick and responsive, but after 15 or 20 miles 70 or 75mph is the best I can do. I push on the gas pedal, but I can get no increase in speed.

    My question is: is there anything that could be causing this besides a turbo that might be on its last leg? Would trash in the fuel line or injector cause this problem? I would like to try the "cheap" fixes first before invewsting $1,200 for a new turbo.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Ask someone to follow you and look for black smoke coming out of the exhaust. Many diesels do this at 75 mph. This is when you don't bring enough fresh air.

    If there is no black smoke, then you have to look for the boost pressure sensor, leaks on the fuel line fittings, loose air mass flow meter next to the air filter box.

    Is your fuel tank well vented?

    The turbo vanes are driven by a pneumatic (vacuum) signal. There is a small filter behind the air filter box that lets air back into the vanes actuating cylinder. When this filter is clogged, the turbo vanes don't respond correctly.

    Usually the turbo lasts longer than the vehicle, but I'm sure there's more money to make by changing the turbo.
  • normanmnormanm Member Posts: 3
    We recently purchased an 05 Liberty CRD and really like the way it handles and it fits our desire to off road. After having a jeep dealer check it out completely ( on the computer) it has had all of the recalls taken care of and it does not have any warning codes that come up. As soon as we got it home we noticed a slight rubbing noise that comes from underneath. It sounds like a metal-to-metal noise similar to a dragging disk brake, not severe but just enough to be audible. I played around with the transfer case shift lever and shifted from 2W to 4PT and back again and it seemed to go away for a day. Then it came back again today. Has anyone had this same experience? I am concerned that it is doing some damage. This Jeep was towed behind an RV for awhile before we purchased it.
  • willysjeepwillysjeep Member Posts: 107
    I haven't tracked this forum for quite some time. I have a problem which I am hoping may have been solved by another Jeep Liberty diesel owner. I do not drive my Jeep every day. In fact, it often sits for a week before I take it out. I am lucky in that my employer provides me with a truck which I take to work. At the end of the week when I have personal time and can take the Jeep for a trip, I have found the battery to be low and there is not enough charge left in the battery to crank the Jeep over.

    Has anyone else had this problem and have you discovered what was draining the battery?

    I have replaced the original battery with the largest battery that I can find and also keep this replacement battery on a battery maintainer which puts a constant low trickle charge through it.

    Glad to see this forum is still in existence..
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    How old was your battery?
    You will notice there is always current drawn from the battery when you re connect the ground lug: this produces sparks :blush:
  • storageguystorageguy Member Posts: 30
    Hi. I had a similar problem with my 2006 CRD. and I also do not drive the vehicle for a week or two at a time. Previously in this formum someone stated that if you have a factory installed trailer hitch that there is a constant draw to the trailer plug.
    What has worked for me is to remove the keys from the ignition, that is take them right out, when not using the vehicle.
  • mdamickmdamick Member Posts: 277
    Have them check the EGR.
    If it is stuck open it will cause a power loss.
    Also check the turbo hoses, you might have a loose one.
  • willysjeepwillysjeep Member Posts: 107
    Thanks for the response.

    I replaced the original battery at 36,000 miles with a battery larger than was originally installed (more amp-hours). I guess that was about a year ago. I do take the keys out of the vehicle when it is not being driven. I do have a trailer hitch installed. I will continue to use a battery maintainer in the cigarette lighter to assure starting on cold winter mornings.

    Does anyone have any other tips on assuring that my battery will not discharge?
  • bhcs111bhcs111 Member Posts: 26
    I just put in battery #5 today. I have a 2005, this last battery lasted a total of three months. I haven't had to pay for any of the batteries as of yet. They don't last long enough to go past warranty. I have pulled the fuse for the trailer tow plug this time to see if that works. If not I'll look into something else to see what the problem is. I was driving my Jeep everyday and still had problems. Now I only drive it a couple of times a week. I moved closer to work so I walk most of the time.The first battery lasted a little over a year. I have one of the first diesels made.
  • jek443jek443 Member Posts: 12
    I disconnected the MAF sensor today and my CRD had less performance than when it was connected. A coupls of days ago I drove from Victoria, TX to Houston )about 140 miles), the Jeep ran great. Hoever on the way back, I lost power, had to pull off the road, turn off engine, wait a few minutes and reestart. The Jeep would run fine for a few miles. I could barely maintain 65 mph.

    Also, does anyone have a diagram or photo of where this "lawnmower filter" is suppose to be? What is the rue name of this device in the Field Service Manual?

    Should I umplug the EGR or should I clean the CCV / MAP and EGR?

    Anyone know of any good mechanics in Houston or Corpus area?
  • lightnin3lightnin3 Member Posts: 153
    I agree with Caribou on this one.
    The Usual suspect for black smoke when accelerating is Dirty air filter.
    When was it last changed?. Poor air / fuel mixture on diesel equals smoke.
    There are a few other suggestions.
    Watch out for bad fuel, fuel. Usually the "premium Diesel " there are 2 types .About 50 % of the B.P stations carry it. the local corner doesn't usually . and also get a bottle of the Power service and pore that in . you'll want to unclog the injectors.
    All of which can fix the amount of smoke situation.
    Also bring it in once a year for a diagnostic to the dealership. you'll want to set an appointment with the best diesel mechanic they have that is trained on these engines.
    2 other culprits can be if the engine light is on you may have a glow plug burnt out or a carboned up egr valve body .
    This will cause lots of black smoke if you are constantly buying the reular "low cetane fuels" with no cetane improvers or injector cleaners .If this is not used at every fill up the black smoke gets slowly worse and worse.

    Thats it ..good luck !!..Oh and even after you get it serviced you'll have smoke till it is purged out of the system. It might be a good idea to go on a trip with her to blow out the catalytic filter.
    Happy Holidays..
    Joyeux Noel..Et Bonne Anne..
    Lightnin..
  • zellerzeller Member Posts: 9
    My diesel was taking longer to start than it should, then got worse to the point it would'nt start at all. I also had the water in the fuel light on. So went to the local Mom & Pop who changed the filter, the primer plunger also didn't work so he changed it for the second time. First time under warrantee second time at my expense. Then the car would only start by pumping the plunger. Brought it to the dealer who said the fuel system wasn't bled properly, said it was fixed and fine. IT WAS NOT! Got home and it wouldn't restart. Seems the car starts cold but won't restart hot. It's been 2 weeks without my car. I am bummed. Can anyone tell me what to check, so I can gat this thing back on the road?
    Diesel Fan in Babylon LI
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Could you try to open and close the filling cap of the fuel tank just before starting when warm? This is to look for eventual under pressure.
    Also look for possible damage of the plunger seal/lip. The new one could have been damaged when installed. A leak at this point would balance pressure or release air bubbles where you need a solid volume of fuel.
  • lightnin3lightnin3 Member Posts: 153
    It sounds like you still got air in the fuel line.Use the manual bleeder valve across from the hand pump on the filter assembly. use a socket wrench to open it a couple of turns.then pump the primer ,and make sure you have something to catch the fuel coming out as you pump. of it sputters , that means there is still air in the lines.If there is even a little air and not straight fuel feed it'll be hard starting.
    You may have to run it and do it a couple of times to get most of the air out.
    Having lots of water in your filter in "NOT GOOD" that is telling you something.yes it is a water seperator but it has limits too.
    Also the water "content" percentage of water is more than 30% in your fuel can affect this as well. There is an additive from the "diesel stops or suppliers " that is a "water remover" this is great for the winter fuel you get from the pump.at least 20% is water your pumping into your tank.and at the prices we are paying they should be draining those under ground tanks at the station every week. usually can't be helped from condensation build up.It naturally builds up in the tank from the hot/cold transition. It's like what happens in the morning when you have frosty windows?..well that is water just frozen,a minute amount but over time it builds up in the fuel tank.
    I usually buy a bottle of Kleen Flo or power service 911 dump a 1/2 bottle of that in a full tank if it is really bad.and a cetane improver 1/2 bottle.
    This should help with the start ups.
    Oh and this hard starting can drain the battrie you might want to put her on charge over night,and plug in that the core heater for those cold nights below 25 degrees.Your starter will thank you..and last a couple more years than usual.
    Besides you'll notice your mileage and fuel usage will be better if you do so.
    Winter fuel has more water content and will lower your mileage.Hint Because there is a warm up time of 5 minutes on the road ,your mileage and defroster heat will take some time.
    I use the the old sticking the carboard in front the radiator trick.
    Block it off totally to reduce the warm up time. I got her down to a minute now till she is at temp.
    Oh by the way to warm her up.. you have to drive it , don't waist fuel idling her.
    USE THE CORE HEATER !!..it's a extension cord tied to your oil dipstick.cut the tie wraps and use it ! .
    I believe most of these diesels it comes as a standard option.
    Good luck ..
    Lightnin..
Sign In or Register to comment.

Your Privacy

By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our Visitor Agreement.