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Comments
It comes on when the engine is shut off and then times out.
It does sound like a fan whine..
It is directly forward and 5" below the filter. The intercooler hose feeds directly into it.
I have had this problem usually after startup and less than a couple of blocks travel with my 05/50k CRD. I pump the fuel filter 12-15 strokes and the car starts and runs for another 3-4 months flawlessly. Can't remember the last time it happened.
Good luck!
Jim
Are you filling a near empty fuel tank with the engine running? Do not as you will suck in air.
Are all of the hose clamps at the fuel filter snug? Are the hoses in good shape? What about the fuel lines? If any of those clamps are loose, air will get in.
Also, instead of pumping 12 - 15 strokes, pump the fuel 20 strokes it takes to purge the air back into the fuel tank and out of the filter..
I am replacing the second filter housing in three years due to this leak. The first time this happened the car would start then stall. Repriming would get it started and it would run until shut off for a while..
- I paid an equivalent amount without replacement of the water pump.
- My two aluminum a/c pipes were rubbing against the steel structure above the radiator because they haven't removed the shroud to do the service.
- The engine was making much more rattling noise after this service and I had to get a new battery then recently another alternator.
Now the truck runs fine, but I spent nearly 3,000 USD to keep it going since January 2008.
Farout: do you read this?
I have 128000 on the stock fan and timing belts.
Asian manufacturers are doing well because of a different consumer approach. We will soon see which attitude survives.
I kinda kept up on resale value of the CRD in the NADA book. The CRD has taken a big hit. But in all fairness every vehicle in the auto auction have taken a dump. Our son has a used vehicle dealers buyers permit for the big auctions. Heck our 2007 Chrysler pacifica AWD Touring is worth about 1/2 half of what we owe on it. The huge difference between the Pacifica and the CRD is we really like the Pacifica and the low cost of keeping it up. We consistently get 22 to 25 mpg and with 28,700 miles it is perfect for us. Gasoline here is $1.69 a gallon and diesel is $ 2.65 so that is one thing I don't miss is the extra money for diesel. How is the price there?
The economy is a scary thing here for a good number of folks. Unless the "Big Three" get some $ real soon I think we are headed for deeper financial troubles, that most likely spread to many other countries. When dealers can't finance the cars to put on the lots, and buyers are less likely to be able to get financing that means real trouble. Even with the US giving the $ for the big three, unless people can get $ to purchase the vehicles the Big Three will be dead in the water. I am glad I don't earn a living selling vehicles!
Hows the economy in France? Hope you and yours are doing well.
farout, but still near......lol
We're in the same mess
I try to buy stuff ahead of time because good things are getting scarce. Less $, less offer, less customers, and what happens when you're missing a replacement part? You're stuck.
As we discussed a long time ago on this forum, automobile parts are common and are made everywhere. If the big three don't survive, we all loose.
Someone made the following comment today:
- The Chinese replaced their bicycles by automobiles,
- In Paris, the mayor is replacing our automobiles by bicycles :shades:
A fiend owns a Honda CRV and has spent $1,500 for each timing belt / water pump change so some gas engines that need timing belt changes are not cheap. I think a lot of gas cars are just driven without concern for timing belt changes and if the belt doesn't break fine. If the belt does break the car is approaching it's useful life anyway and the response of the owner to the mechanic is, What's a timing belt and why did it destroy my engine? :sick:
The expectation of diesel owners is that the engines will run much longer so the timing belts (should) get better attention.
Nice to see you post again. I see you are enjoying your Pacifica.
My CRD is doing reasonably well. The weak link is the torque converter. If it fails again, it gets an aftermarket (Suncoast) TC, a trans kit and that should be the end of transmission issues.
Frankly, I am happy that I have hung onto my CRD. It has been very reliable and the dealer I have been using has been fabulous. Their tech has taught me a few tricks to help maintain my CRD properly.
As for the cost of diesel, I last paid $2.559 cash. Fuel economy has remained quite good with mixed city highway at 23 MPG and straight highway between 29 - 31 MPG. In spite of the higher fuel cost, the CRD is significantly cheaper to drive than the gas counterpart.
In January, my wife and I will be driving to Florida with the CRD. Her 1998 Chrysler Concorde with 2.7 L V-6 gets 28 MPG on the road but she finds the CRD safer and more comfortable. The CRD also has better pulling power at high speeds than the Chrysler.
I think we have common conditions in the case of the timing belt:
- load cannot change significantly because camshafts acceleration is limited by the ECU (limitation of the acceleration value) and the effort to turn the water pump is negligible,
- temperature is defined by the thermostat,
- outdoor aging is generally related to UV exposure and material fatigue (total bends/folds in a given environment). The belt is protected from UV light, but the engine temperature creates the stable condition for deterioration.
- original component quality is usually excellent.
I don't know many people who take time to understand what's going on :confuse:
You can easily test the transfer case shifter with the engine turned off. On flat ground, put the transmission in 'Park' then manipulate the transfer case shifter into all positions. To help shifting, you can either move the Jeep using one foot on the ground (if you're tall enough) or someone can help you from outside the vehicle.
When I go into drive I sometimes hear a clunk as it shifts.
Works most of the time.
I don't know many people who take time to understand what's going on :confuse:
I can not tell whether this is a veiled insult or a weak compliment so I take it as a veiled compliment.
I’m not willing to accept an argument that someone who accelerates hard all the time vs. someone who accelerates leisurely puts the same load on their timing belt especially with the firmer shifts that occur under high power. I agree that (belt) temperature is mostly defined by water temperature but my Scanguage indicates a range of 35 F coolant operating temperature between winter and summer weather and I don’t see the range in temps that would exist between, say, Canada and Arizona.
I’m willing to wave away the original component quality argument as it applies to the Liberty ball joints and the cheesy mechanism used in the power windows and accept that initial quality of the timing belt is excellent since VM Motori may have made that decision. However, given the shelf life issue of “new” tires and understanding that timing belts are made of somewhat different materials than tires, I would personally not buy a timing belt off the shelf that I knew was 10 years old unless it was the only one available.
I actually do not drive my CRD much in the city, but consider a hypothetical CRD that has my daily commute that almost never exits the city. My Scanguage average speed in the city is around 15 mph. Now consider my actual CRD that is almost never driven in the city. My weighted Scanguage average speed is around 50 mph including some suburban driving. At 100k miles the city CRD hypothetically has around 6,700 hours on the timing belt and the highway CRD has around 2,000 hours on the timing belt. The highway CRD belt has the additional advantage of less time spent idling and suffering the severe impulse torque of the 4 cylinder diesel and the average rpm (arguably) may not be much different between the two CRDs.
So, 100k mile timing belt change based on some assumed mix that fits most drivers seems a bit arbitrary, yes? Is this not why some sophisticated vehicles keep track of their own oil changes (but for different criteria)?
The internal shift mechanism in the CRD transfer case is spring loaded. This allows the control lever to be moved to a new position and the shift to occur later when the parts are in alignment and not under any load. This is why you need to shift between forward and reverse, or shift to neutral or just let up on the pedal when moving with the wheel straight ahead for the shift to occur.
- Industrial timing belts are designed to operate between -30C and +80C.
- Most flat belts have a continuous wire core of steel or glass fiber spooled side to side across the width of the pulley on one layer only.
By design, such a product should be able to survive 10,000,000 oscillations under full load at maximum temperature, given a bending radius of ~10 times the wire diameter.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fatigue_(material)
It seems these belts suffer more from chemical and mechanical degradation rather than mechanical fatigue because we usually reach practically two orders of magnitude above the 10^7 value, and their bending radius on the engine is much larger than what the specification calls for. So yes, I clearly agree with you concerning the arbitrary approach, or should we call this a nasty commercial approach or even extortion of one's savings?
I would see the oil change and type of driving tracking to evaluate the achieved acidity/alteration of the oil, as long as someone tells the computer the type of oil used; but a normal citizen doesn't need this.
See page 7:
http://www.brad.ac.uk/acad/msceqi/EPSRC/downloads/timing_belt.pdf
The symptom of this ageing is a loss of plasticity due to cross reticulation (cracking) of the belt. When the belt looses part of it's original material (substrate) performance it is rapidly affected by mechanical and chemical aggressions.
Temperature and UVs (a, b, c) play the same role in this case.
I would look towards an addition of Silicon and Silica. Silicon resists quite well to radiation (X + Gamma rays) and Silica resists well to wear (tire application).
The "Discussion and Conclusions" (P8) of the article you refer to converge well with the cross reticulation approach. This is typical of composite materials
I have another issue. I had the starscan dianog on my Jeep a week ago. One of the codes that came back was an underpowered turbo. I asked if perhaps a clogged fuel filter might cause the code, they said it was possible. so I replaced the fuel filter. The Jeep ran better immediately; however, once I got about 15 miles down the road (running about 70mph w/ cruise control on), I would lose ppower going over overepasses: I had the cruise set @ 70mph and the jeep slowed down to 65mph -- normally, I would hit these overpasses w/ no lose in power.
I can turn the Jeep off, wait about 5 miniutes and and hit the gas and the Jeep is quick and responsive, but after 15 or 20 miles 70 or 75mph is the best I can do. I push on the gas pedal, but I can get no increase in speed.
My question is: is there anything that could be causing this besides a turbo that might be on its last leg? Would trash in the fuel line or injector cause this problem? I would like to try the "cheap" fixes first before invewsting $1,200 for a new turbo.
If there is no black smoke, then you have to look for the boost pressure sensor, leaks on the fuel line fittings, loose air mass flow meter next to the air filter box.
Is your fuel tank well vented?
The turbo vanes are driven by a pneumatic (vacuum) signal. There is a small filter behind the air filter box that lets air back into the vanes actuating cylinder. When this filter is clogged, the turbo vanes don't respond correctly.
Usually the turbo lasts longer than the vehicle, but I'm sure there's more money to make by changing the turbo.
Has anyone else had this problem and have you discovered what was draining the battery?
I have replaced the original battery with the largest battery that I can find and also keep this replacement battery on a battery maintainer which puts a constant low trickle charge through it.
Glad to see this forum is still in existence..
You will notice there is always current drawn from the battery when you re connect the ground lug: this produces sparks
What has worked for me is to remove the keys from the ignition, that is take them right out, when not using the vehicle.
If it is stuck open it will cause a power loss.
Also check the turbo hoses, you might have a loose one.
I replaced the original battery at 36,000 miles with a battery larger than was originally installed (more amp-hours). I guess that was about a year ago. I do take the keys out of the vehicle when it is not being driven. I do have a trailer hitch installed. I will continue to use a battery maintainer in the cigarette lighter to assure starting on cold winter mornings.
Does anyone have any other tips on assuring that my battery will not discharge?
Also, does anyone have a diagram or photo of where this "lawnmower filter" is suppose to be? What is the rue name of this device in the Field Service Manual?
Should I umplug the EGR or should I clean the CCV / MAP and EGR?
Anyone know of any good mechanics in Houston or Corpus area?
The Usual suspect for black smoke when accelerating is Dirty air filter.
When was it last changed?. Poor air / fuel mixture on diesel equals smoke.
There are a few other suggestions.
Watch out for bad fuel, fuel. Usually the "premium Diesel " there are 2 types .About 50 % of the B.P stations carry it. the local corner doesn't usually . and also get a bottle of the Power service and pore that in . you'll want to unclog the injectors.
All of which can fix the amount of smoke situation.
Also bring it in once a year for a diagnostic to the dealership. you'll want to set an appointment with the best diesel mechanic they have that is trained on these engines.
2 other culprits can be if the engine light is on you may have a glow plug burnt out or a carboned up egr valve body .
This will cause lots of black smoke if you are constantly buying the reular "low cetane fuels" with no cetane improvers or injector cleaners .If this is not used at every fill up the black smoke gets slowly worse and worse.
Thats it ..good luck !!..Oh and even after you get it serviced you'll have smoke till it is purged out of the system. It might be a good idea to go on a trip with her to blow out the catalytic filter.
Happy Holidays..
Joyeux Noel..Et Bonne Anne..
Lightnin..
Diesel Fan in Babylon LI
Also look for possible damage of the plunger seal/lip. The new one could have been damaged when installed. A leak at this point would balance pressure or release air bubbles where you need a solid volume of fuel.
You may have to run it and do it a couple of times to get most of the air out.
Having lots of water in your filter in "NOT GOOD" that is telling you something.yes it is a water seperator but it has limits too.
Also the water "content" percentage of water is more than 30% in your fuel can affect this as well. There is an additive from the "diesel stops or suppliers " that is a "water remover" this is great for the winter fuel you get from the pump.at least 20% is water your pumping into your tank.and at the prices we are paying they should be draining those under ground tanks at the station every week. usually can't be helped from condensation build up.It naturally builds up in the tank from the hot/cold transition. It's like what happens in the morning when you have frosty windows?..well that is water just frozen,a minute amount but over time it builds up in the fuel tank.
I usually buy a bottle of Kleen Flo or power service 911 dump a 1/2 bottle of that in a full tank if it is really bad.and a cetane improver 1/2 bottle.
This should help with the start ups.
Oh and this hard starting can drain the battrie you might want to put her on charge over night,and plug in that the core heater for those cold nights below 25 degrees.Your starter will thank you..and last a couple more years than usual.
Besides you'll notice your mileage and fuel usage will be better if you do so.
Winter fuel has more water content and will lower your mileage.Hint Because there is a warm up time of 5 minutes on the road ,your mileage and defroster heat will take some time.
I use the the old sticking the carboard in front the radiator trick.
Block it off totally to reduce the warm up time. I got her down to a minute now till she is at temp.
Oh by the way to warm her up.. you have to drive it , don't waist fuel idling her.
USE THE CORE HEATER !!..it's a extension cord tied to your oil dipstick.cut the tie wraps and use it ! .
I believe most of these diesels it comes as a standard option.
Good luck ..
Lightnin..