Jeep Liberty Diesel

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Comments

  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    When weather conditions get tough we put one quart of normal gasoline in a full tank of diesel fuel. This takes care of our worries :shades:
  • FurloughedFurloughed Member Posts: 1
    Can I get "UFO's" info? aacs970@hotmail.com
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Last week I had new brakes installed on my CRD. I had to throw out the original rotors and pads with 43.8K on them. The rear pads were totally warn and the rotors(by Bosch) had some hot spots on them. The front rotors (made in China) were warped but the pads were in good condition with about one-half of the friction material remaining. Both the dealer and two mechanics told me that MOPAR OEM brakes were junk.

    I did upgrade my brakes. I am using rotors from ultimate braking. They are cross drilled and slotted (both front and back) with high performance semi-metallic pads. Got about 150 miles on the new brakes and they are sweet. Stopping distances are much shorter and the brake pedal feel is very good. Had the system flushed and had synthetic DOT 4 brake fluid put in.
  • drudgerydrudgery Member Posts: 13
    I have a 2005 CRD with 75k miles, (LOVE the truck despite some of its issues) and had all the normal recall stuff done but am having an odd problem I think may be related to the EGR or fule/air sensor of some kind.

    Description of problem:
    Will be running just fine for miles can occur (warm or cold) and then occasionally when stopped at a light/stop sign for several seconds we pull away and there is absolutely no power and the farther you push the gas the less power (will not go above 30-40 mph. The weird thing is to make it go back to normal all you have to do is let it idle for 5-10 seconds and then go again and everything is fine.

    I am planning on taking it to the dealership this week but I wanted to get the real scoop here because they only work on about 2 or 3 of them I think. Any help to determine what might be causing or what is not casuing it are appreciated. Thanks -- Andy C
  • EastcoastzEastcoastz Member Posts: 4
    I have an 05 Liberty Diesel.

    Had my Jeep in to the mechanic today said I needed a tensioner and Serpentine belt.

    Belt $170
    Tensioner $ 310

    Think this is extremely steep since it is a simple piece of ruber and a tensioner and without labour already up to 480. Has anyone required a replacement of these parts and if so have you been able to get a better deal? Thanks for all your help :surprise:
  • mdamickmdamick Member Posts: 277
    It does sound like the EGR might be hanging up, or the "throttle valve" on the intake.
    Have you tried "blowing its nose"?
    This can clear out the system.
  • mdamickmdamick Member Posts: 277
    O'Reilly auto parts online
    Belt $24-$60
    Tensioner not listed.

    I have 135,000 mi on original belt and it still looks good.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    My serpentine belt was changed according to the EU manual ( :sick: ) at 60,000 miles.

    It was in a fine condition but the dealer changed it arguing that they had to do it according to Jeep prescriptions. They did not route the new belt in the proper way and I repositioned it later. This is what I observed:

    The tensionner's spring should last the life of the engine, the bearing inside the pulley is another story. Mine is still fine and I have about 90,000 miles on the truck.

    Changing the serpentine belt is very simple as long as you have sufficient light, dirty overalls and that you can reach the bottom pulley to follow the pattern shown on the sticker.

    You need a 15mm box wrench with a lever 20 inches long to retract the tensionner without effort; once kept retracted with one hand, you slide the belt on or off the alternator pulley with the other hand. You use the nut from the shaft of the pulley to swing the pulley out of the way. This also tightens the nut if needed.

    It should not take you more than 10 minutes unless you are curious. Don't forget to remove the oil and dirt of the air hose before you start ;)
  • storageguystorageguy Member Posts: 30
    Caribou1, would the chirp I hear from time to time on acceleration, have anything to do with the belt tensionner spring. This noise occurs at lower speed under acceleration and around 2000 rpm.
  • EastcoastzEastcoastz Member Posts: 4
    When you say they changed the belt at 60,000, was this a recall if it was mine was never done do you have any further information on this recall?
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    I also had the "chirp" sound when:
    - my alternator (built-in voltage rectifier) had gone bad
    - my belt was not in the proper position

    Assuming your serpentine belt is installed properly, I would do the "alternator field check" first:
    - stop the engine and disconnect the little connector behind the alternator. It's shaped like a "D" and needs to be pinched to be removed. There are two side clips molded into the connector. Turn the engine on again and listen.

    My belt was in a wrong position after it was replaced. My alternator died after the belt was replaced. Is this pure coincidence? I don't know.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    No, simply customer abuse.
    In the EU we must pay more, more frequently, and accept to get no accurate answers to technical issues. Modern vehicles are loaded with electronics and those who decide to buy Asian cars never change. This is a severe threat to our industries.
  • drudgerydrudgery Member Posts: 13
    Yes I do blow it out once in a while but it still happens either way. I am scheduling it for brakes, filters, etc for this week and will post what happens for future reference. Thanks -- Andy
  • cmisenheimercmisenheimer Member Posts: 4
    Andy, I bought my 05 CRD new and have been having the problem off and on since. My first episode was at about 2000 miles. The problem is that I can never replicate the problem and it doesn't create any "engine codes". I have had the EGR replaced, once they said they found a lose hose at the turbo. Despite all the problems I still love my CRD and get 28 to 30 mph on the highway. I just found this site and am looking forward to learning more about my jeep. So if you find out something be sure to post it so we can learn. Thanks Chuck.
  • EastcoastzEastcoastz Member Posts: 4
    It was in a fine condition but the dealer changed it arguing that they had to do it according to Jeep prescriptions

    This is where I am confused, you said the dealer changed because they had towas this a recall?
  • storageguystorageguy Member Posts: 30
    You might be experiencing Turbo Lag, a common condition with most diesels, thus you have to allow for it. Are you using a low sulphur diesel fuel conditioner?
    My 06 has 42K miles and running just fine.
  • EastcoastzEastcoastz Member Posts: 4
    Can anyone suggest where I can purchase parts for my Jeep liberty diesel?
  • jek443jek443 Member Posts: 12
    I am having the exact same problem with my 2006 Jeep (107K miles). the problem just started back in NOV, previous to that no problems.

    I did just have my #2 glowplug replaced (the tip was broken off). That seemed to solve the problem of the engine producing white smoke from the exhaust in the morning.

    Also, I had the Boost Solenoid Filter (a.k.a. lawnmower filter) replaced at the same time.

    After these two fixes, my check engine light that had been on constantly for 1 year (dealer check codes, cleared codes, codes popped up affter a few days of driving.) finally went out by itself. It came back on again a few days later ( I am guessing because of the loss of power issue: driving 73mph, then Jeep drops power and speed down to 65mph with no apparent cause). But unlike the other times the CEL would go off by itself -- the Jeep was doing great in terms of performance when the CEL went off. It seems as if I have more problems with this on cold days or when there is a strong cross wind cutting across the front of the Jeep.

    I ma thinking it has something to do with the EGR / Mass Air Flow Control Valve / or MAF sensor. Anybody have any insight? Should I just disconnect the EGR? I tried disconnecting the MAF sensor, but it seemed as if the Jeep ran worst after I did that.

    Joe (joe_kelley@stotlerllc.com)
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    In your service manual, belts are to be inspected for cracks or signs of wear. Ours are changed by default.
    Your timing belts should be changed at 100,000 miles; ours at 60,000!
    The problem is: the vehicle is the same :sick:

    When all these 'worst case conditions' are put together, the vehicle becomes excessively expensive and Jeep sales suffer from such policy.
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    caribou1: Just before we got our buy back on our "Green Beast" is when we were told that both axils and transfer case fluid had to be changed every 12,000 miles! and that was $325. I thought then this is a very expensive vehicle to keep up!
    I was also told that no one in the USA could qualify for schedule "A" . So why put in a schedule "A" and just have a schedule "B" only?

    Is Jeep still offering the V. M. Motori engine there? I have read nothing about a diesel Liberty returning here. Jeep does not even have the 4.L V-6 offered in the Nitro. We have the 4.L engine in our Pacifica, and it is a fast powerful engine, worlds ahead of the 3.7 L the Jeep Liberty's only engine on this side of the swamp. Are the Liberty's there with the CRD still a good respectable engine?

    farout
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Hi farout,
    Yes, the VM 2.8 CRD is still alive ;)
    http://www.jeep.fr/cherokee/jeep-cherokee-tarifs.html

    It's the only engine offered, and I will not change mine for this newer model.

    I do my maintenance (engine oil + air filter) every 20,000 miles and I check the axles and transfer case oil level every 4 years. My fuel filter cartridge is good for 30,000 miles, and that's it :P

    I've had this Jeep 5 1/2 years and my only regret comes from the business attitude of Chrysler who imposes to sell everything at the price level of a Mercedes. This kills the American car spirit after a while.
  • lightnin3lightnin3 Member Posts: 153
    Hi Caribou ,
    Is there any chance of damaging the engine by putting a quart of gasoline in the tank?
    I have a buddy who drove expedite , and he used to do the same out west in when Calgary when tempteratures dropped well below -30 C .
    Is it the thinning of the fuel?..that allows more fuel to the cylinder ?..or is it that it burns hotter?..maybe easier to fire up initially?..
    How about furl additives with alcohol "Methyl Hydrate" will this help?
    Lightnin..
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Hi lightnin,
    A small proportion of gasoline helps diesel fuel 'filtration' at lower temperatures. It gives mobility to the paraffin (wax) contained in the fuel, in other words the paraffin does not rapidly turn into solid wax and block the flow of fuel. If you put too much gasoline the fuel will self ignite and you're in real trouble especially when you have an automatic :(
    I used 'White Spirit', an oily paint thinner that comes out of the refining process well before diesel fuel. It's close to Kerosene that we have in our winterized fuel.

    I have no experience with alcohol based additives.
    I just read a local article saying methanol will catch water stagnating in your diesel fuel tank and make it a combustible solution. The amount of water you can mix/catch with a quart of pure methanol corresponds to 12-15 fluid oz. This suits the common rail technology assuming every filter and water separator is in good working order. We should not go beyond this volume.
    If you use a quart of 'burning alcohol', you can only absorb 3-5 fluid oz of water. In this case you are putting water in the tank :surprise:
  • drudgerydrudgery Member Posts: 13
    I do put in diesel treatment but only twice - I have never needed too before this.
    It's a VERY long LAG (many, many seconds and could be up to a minute if I don;t stop and let it idle for several 3-10 seconds) and then go again.

    It's at the shop right now so hopefully will know by tomorrow or Thursday.
    Thanks for the input.
  • drudgerydrudgery Member Posts: 13
    Joe - Mine has been doing it for the same period of time too and it does seem to be somewhat related to the outside temp but not the engine temp (can do it while coming up to normal temp or at normal temp. The colder it is (-8 ) the other day it was the worst then at about 25-30 it still does it but not as frequently.

    I did put fuel treatment in the other day and although it reduced how frequently it happened - it still happened and it was warmer. It also just doesn't seem like bad fuel (it's running fine - doesn't sputter or miss or sound weird - there is JUST no power when it happens. It feels like the turbo is not spooling up at all when it happens but is just so strange how it can come and go. Its in the shop as we speak so I will get some news pretty soon and post it.
  • jek443jek443 Member Posts: 12
    The other strange thing about this situation is that if I am driving into a headwind, I will lose power, drop in speed from 75mph to 65 mph or even 60mph -- even if a strong crosswind. However, driving with the wind I have no problems.

    I am keeping my fingers crossed that this new dealership I am going to has good diesel mechanics and know whatt he heck is going on.

    Let me know if you have any luck with uyour situation.

    Joe
  • drudgerydrudgery Member Posts: 13
    Shop just called said they are getting a Mass Airflow Sensor code and turbo boost pressure code - which could be related to the mass airflow sensor because if the sensor is fouled it won't know what to do with the turbo boost I guess? They are also getting the "normal" EGR code - I say normal because it seems a lot have had it. They're replacing the MAF sensor - should correct the boost code hopefully, fixing the EGR. If they can pull it off I'll be awfully happy - they s aid should be done by tomorrow - including doing a bunch of other normal maintenance. Get 2 days of rental car on the warranty company (EasyCare).

    I believe the two main error codes were P0299 - Boost Pressure Sensor
    P0101 - MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor - these are similar to the other issues I have read about related to smoke - power loss but not identical to what I and others are decribing.
  • nicku812nicku812 Member Posts: 13
    Hey for the past several weeks I had a problem with the power. It would not go over 35 then it had a delayed starting, would lose power and then start up again. So, I took it to the dealer. Come to find out that when you change the fuel filter (I did about 2 months ago) the O-rings in the filter housing gets loose and causes air in the line and lose power. The had to replace the entire filter housing just to get the O-rings. BUT it worked and now it runs like new. It also threw an engine code of a leak in the fuel line. But the mechanic told me that it dont always throw a code when there is this kind of problem. So Check for a leak at the O-rings on the fuel filter housing. Hope this helps out all or some of you.
  • drudgerydrudgery Member Posts: 13
    Here is the Update for the Fix so far.
    Original fault codes were
    P0299 - Boost Pressure Sensor
    P0101 - MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor
    P0401 - EGR - he didn't mention this one yesterday.

    They changed replaced the following and I am including everything even though some is normal maintenance & unrelated:
    1. MAF sensor replaced
    2. Fuel Filter replaced
    3. Air Filter replaced
    4. Oil/Filter Changed
    5. Differential - Transmission Fluid change
    7. Radiator flushed
    8. Front brakes replaced and turned rotors

    Took it out for test drive and the P0401 - EGR came back on but they hadn't replaced the EGR yet wanted to wait until after the MAF sensor and everything else was done. Apparently they have them in stock (not surprising as often as I hear about them failing) and will change in the morning and hopefully won't have the CEL come back on. We'll see what happens tomorrow. Thanks for all the info guys.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    P0299 - Boost Pressure Sensor
    P0101 - MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor
    P0401 - EGR - he didn't mention this one yesterday.


    All these are codes are interconnected:
    - If the EGR control valve remains jammed near the 'closed for fresh air flow' position, there is still some air pressure after the turbo and not enough flow of fresh air coming out of the airfilter box. Engine power is reduced.

    - If a hose is disconnected before the turbo, the system sees another unsupported malfunction. The engine can run, but emissions control can force the 'limp' mode.

    - If a hose is disconnected after the turbo, before the boost pressure sensor, then it waits for pressure to build up before injecting the mapped amount of fuel.

    The ECU needs to sense:
    fresh airflow + air temperature + atmospheric pressure + turbo boost + emission control status + "transmission ready" signals to allow maximum engine performance.
  • kntrygurlkntrygurl Member Posts: 12
    i was readin in the owners manual the other day because i was also concerned about how long it was takin it to start. Heres what i read:
    "Under normal conditions, do not operate the starter
    for longer than 20 seconds at one time. At temperatures
    below 5°F (15°C), you may operate the starter
    for up to 25 seconds at one time. Longer periods of
    operation may result in starter or battery damage. If
    the engine does not start at once, repeat Steps 1
    through 4."

    i know it seems like a LOOOONNNGGGG time to spin the starter so if it don't start after five seconds or so i always start over.

    i know i didn't really help any but i just wanted to share what i found out
  • CRD_BullydogCRD_Bullydog Member Posts: 19
    I think you should check your MAP sensor. It is located on the driver's side top rear of the engine under the thick wiring harness. There is a single allen hex bolt holding it in. Use a 4mm hex key to remove the bolt and flat washer. Gently turn the sensor 1/8 turn left and right rotation to loosen and then lift it out. Generally you will find it is gunked up with hardened engine oil vapor from the crankcase vent. Try cleaning it with a super soft tooth brush and CRC Electromotive cleaner. Don't put pressure on the little brass beanie which should become visible when sensor is getting clean. After cleaning or when replacing, use a drop of oil on O Ring, reinsert gently. Use left and right rotate motion, add bolt and hand tighten (inch pounds) no torque please.

    In any case the sensor cost $35 at Jeep (a standard 3 Bar Bosch sensor) part number mopar 56044591AA. This sensor MAP and the MAF sensor which is on the air filter box primarily control the EGR valve.

    If the EGR valve is opening incorrectly it will reduce your boost from your turbo, cause black smoke a high speeds and finally cause a complete failure of boost control where the vehicle totally looses acceleration and power. By the by. MAF sensor can be remove (two screws, phillips) and cleaned with CRC Electromotive spray, no brushing here please.

    Maintenance on these item every 15,000 miles or replacement when they fail.
  • CRD_BullydogCRD_Bullydog Member Posts: 19
    Sometimes you can get an airlock on the top of the fuel filter. Use the manual pump and pump up the pressure in the filter. Use the bleeder to remove that air or vapor. Repeat until you get nothing but fuel. You know, the Jeep sucks fuel from the tank. When there is anti-gel (usually a methanol component) in the fuel, vapors will separate under a vacuum. This produces a vapor lock like hard starting symptom. Check it out!
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Kntrygurl,
    I observed that I have to wait 4 compression cycles before my engine starts at the beginning of the 5th compression, may it be winter or summer :)
    Even when I restart the engine when it's still hot, it will only start when the 4th compression is accomplished; this may take time but allows the cylinders to empty unburned fuel and assure better compression (in theory).
  • nicku812nicku812 Member Posts: 13
    Having my CRD doing simular with the power I think everyone should check for fuel leak by the fuel filter housing. When there is a leak it allows air into the system and then it takes several times to start. It dont always throw a code out. But 2 months ago I had to replace the fuel filter and then, had a code for the EGR valve and then two days later this came up. It seems it was throwing codes except fuel leak. I could not go over 35 and sometimes it would kill on the highway. Finally I took it to a good dealership and got it diagnoised, After fixing the problem with the fuel filer housing it runs like new.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    I have a 2005 CRD, purchased new with over 46K miles on it. Early on in the forum, Caribou mentioned cleaning the MAP sensor. The diesel tech at the dealer I go to mentioned cleaning the MAP sensor along with each oil change which I do every 5000 to 5500 miles.

    As to adding gasoline to the fuel, I would be really careful here. You would probably be better off adding an anti-gel additive or some 1-K kerosene. I use the latter. Gasoline could reduce the lubricity of the fuel enough where you might get CP3 pump damage or worse, failure. The CP3 pump is the high pressure pump used to pressurize the common rail on the CRD and is not cheap to replace.

    As to fuel additives, I stick to products from either RedLine oil or Amsoil.
  • jimhemijimhemi Member Posts: 223
    Anyone in here remove this little bugger? Has anyone bypassed it altogether? I can't find the post, but someone mentioned they disconnected it and bypassed it so the "check engine light" doesn't stay on.
    My EGR Control valve went and the truck has been running like a top. Fuel mileage is great. No stalling, stuttering, shuddering or smoking. It turns out they want me to bring it in and get it replaced under warrenty. Not happening until someone really explains why... other then inspection.
  • jimhemijimhemi Member Posts: 223
    Where have you been buddy?
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    I think you ought to have the EGR repaired now because it seems parts may be difficult to get later on. You disconnect the new system until time for next inspection comes.

    I did not reconnect my EGR since 2004 and I accidentally took the truck for inspection :(
    It turned out that it produces less opaque smoke than expected and the CO2 value was on the low side. I'm not complaining, but I know I'm walking on eggs ;)

    My winter mileage around the city is stable at 18.5 mpg since 3 months. I've used only Shell diesel fuel, the standard one (black label) and permanent 4WD . The V-Power diesel, more expensive, gives me less mileage.
    I'm also making this test to evaluate tire wear: I have new BFG T/As with 5,000 miles and no visible difference between front and rear. The depth gage will be the judge.
  • jimhemijimhemi Member Posts: 223
    Yeah, I would like for them to replace the EGR as it would make sense to do both at the same time. The techs will not however change it unless it's bad. If there is no "code" then they will not change it. It's just so frustrating when the bean counters are telling the dealerships to only work on stuff that's truly bad. Why pay for more warrenty work.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Could you take your EGR system apart and simply clean it? The problem seems to be time, right?
  • jimhemijimhemi Member Posts: 223
    I'm not a mechanic, nor do I pretend to be. I have never even taken the plastic cover off of the engine. I have changed the oil and air filters as that's easy stuff.
  • datamandataman Member Posts: 12
    I had the problem with the Liberty not starting. I used the primer pump on the fuel filter until noticing a leak in the fuel filter body. I was told the part I needed would take 45 days to come in, so I ended up having the filter body replaced for $200.
    I love the diesel but after 3EGR valves, fuel housing, torque converter and possible rear end problems (all under 40K miles) I called it quits. Too bad, I really liked the little diesel, it towed like a champ.
  • siberiasiberia Member Posts: 520
    You did the right thing. I really believe that no one should own a diesel Liberty whom is not their own mechanic and cannot deal with the diesel (and Liberty) issues and is not willing to make the expenditures needed to correct for the D-student factory engineering problems.

    Who puts a heating element at the highest point in the fuel system where air is most likely to be, allowing the element to over heat? A lift pump in or near the fuel tank takes appears to care of this problem by guaranteeing fuel at the heating element.

    Who puts tension ball joints on one of the strongest bodied 4-wheel drive vehicles out there that is likely to see rough service? It's like putting your grandmother's knees on an Olympic weight lifter. The problem can be solved by installing Moog "Problem Solver" ball joints but you still need regular inspections to be sure.

    EGR valve is another fun topic. Let's make something that is likely to have problems and put it where it's almost easier to pull the engine than remove the EGR valve to clean it. Try this: when you get the code for EGR failure, run you engine in 3rd gear lockup at 55 mph for 3 or 4 miles to self-cleaning-oven bake the EGR valve in the full open position then floor it for a few seconds to fully close the valve. Clear the codes and maybe they will not come back for 8 or 10k miles, if you do this once a week or so maybe they won't come back at all. Works for me.

    Torque converter, that topic has already been rubber-hosed......
  • nicku812nicku812 Member Posts: 13
    I talked to my dealer who stated that when you change the fuel filter that you should also change the O-rings in the houseing. For some reason (poor design) the O-rings get damaged when you change the filter and this gets damage from people not knowing how to do it including other dealers. Of course you only can get the O-rings when you buy the entire housing. But that corrected my problem. I just put a new EGR valve (my first) about 2 months ago. Thank god it was still under warranty. But the fuel system gets air in it from the O-rings leaking that you have to prime it with the filter/water seperator. CRAZY... If anyone has this problem change the filter housing and including the O-rings
  • johnhayworthjohnhayworth Member Posts: 16
    WIX makes a fuel filter that fits the 2005 Liberty CRD at 1/2 price to dealer replacement. There are also in line filters in clear plastic body containers to put into your fuel line. Foe around $60.00 you can add a fuel line pump before the fuel filter. My CRD runs well with fuel problems. jdh;-) . :)
  • nescosmonescosmo Member Posts: 453
    I have not been in this forum for a wail and I can see that all of you still have the same old problem.
    With all the forum arround I can not believe that you all have this issues.
    With about $3,500 you can resolve all of this issues and be a happy motoring.
    EGR---SEGR
    Fuel filter---Ranco
    Cac---Samco
    Tranny--- Suncoast
    Fluid pump----New Pump
    Air in fuel----fuel pump
    No power---Inmotion
    and so on. All of this is a thing of the Past; My friend CRD have 155k and all this work he did it at about 20k and ever since he has no problem and my ether. So get in to the ball.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    So far I have changed my fuel filter three times on my own. I have no fuel leakage nor do I get air in the injection system and I still have the original mounting plus factory O-rings (2005 CRD). A little cleaning of the O-rings with a lint free cloth followed by a light application of clean diesel fuel or clean engine oil keeps the O-rings happy and healthy. Most importantly, do not over tighten the fuel filter, otherwise you will damage the O-rings you speak of.

    As to the EGR valve, I had the original one replaced at 14K miles. Now have 48K on the Jeep and no heartburn from the replacement. But I do beat on the engine at least once daily (when thoroughly warm) as Caribou has suggested in the past.

    Have done the torque converter recall and have replaced one since then. I do not tow! If the TC fails again, then I will put in something better (Suncoast or other) plus the Transgo transkit and that will be the end of that.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Hi winter2,
    There is something I don't clearly understand:

    Some folks find air bubbles in the fuel filter housing :(

    - When I turn the engine OFF, I can still hear the sound of my (electrical) fuel priming pump for about one second after the engine died. This means the filter is pressurized at this point.

    - I tend to start the engine 'a bit later', never immediately after the glow plug indicator turns off. I don't know at which moment the fuel priming pump is turned ON, but any delay at this point could cause air bubbles to get trapped by cavitation created by the fuel injection pump .

    What do you think?
  • siberiasiberia Member Posts: 520
    The so called lift pump on our CRDs is in the common rail pump after the filter assy. We do not have the lift pump that you mention. There is wiring back at the tank for a lift pump but it was never installed. If there is an air leak and a lift pump is installed the air leak turns into a fuel leak and it becomes easy to find.

    Like Winter2 I have had no problems. After a fuel filter change and priming I can never take an additional pump on the primer because it is solid no matter how long the vehicle sits without running. Anyone who can pump their primer on a daily basis has an air leak somewhere.
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