By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our
Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our
Visitor Agreement.
Comments
I did upgrade my brakes. I am using rotors from ultimate braking. They are cross drilled and slotted (both front and back) with high performance semi-metallic pads. Got about 150 miles on the new brakes and they are sweet. Stopping distances are much shorter and the brake pedal feel is very good. Had the system flushed and had synthetic DOT 4 brake fluid put in.
Description of problem:
Will be running just fine for miles can occur (warm or cold) and then occasionally when stopped at a light/stop sign for several seconds we pull away and there is absolutely no power and the farther you push the gas the less power (will not go above 30-40 mph. The weird thing is to make it go back to normal all you have to do is let it idle for 5-10 seconds and then go again and everything is fine.
I am planning on taking it to the dealership this week but I wanted to get the real scoop here because they only work on about 2 or 3 of them I think. Any help to determine what might be causing or what is not casuing it are appreciated. Thanks -- Andy C
Had my Jeep in to the mechanic today said I needed a tensioner and Serpentine belt.
Belt $170
Tensioner $ 310
Think this is extremely steep since it is a simple piece of ruber and a tensioner and without labour already up to 480. Has anyone required a replacement of these parts and if so have you been able to get a better deal? Thanks for all your help :surprise:
Have you tried "blowing its nose"?
This can clear out the system.
Belt $24-$60
Tensioner not listed.
I have 135,000 mi on original belt and it still looks good.
It was in a fine condition but the dealer changed it arguing that they had to do it according to Jeep prescriptions. They did not route the new belt in the proper way and I repositioned it later. This is what I observed:
The tensionner's spring should last the life of the engine, the bearing inside the pulley is another story. Mine is still fine and I have about 90,000 miles on the truck.
Changing the serpentine belt is very simple as long as you have sufficient light, dirty overalls and that you can reach the bottom pulley to follow the pattern shown on the sticker.
You need a 15mm box wrench with a lever 20 inches long to retract the tensionner without effort; once kept retracted with one hand, you slide the belt on or off the alternator pulley with the other hand. You use the nut from the shaft of the pulley to swing the pulley out of the way. This also tightens the nut if needed.
It should not take you more than 10 minutes unless you are curious. Don't forget to remove the oil and dirt of the air hose before you start
- my alternator (built-in voltage rectifier) had gone bad
- my belt was not in the proper position
Assuming your serpentine belt is installed properly, I would do the "alternator field check" first:
- stop the engine and disconnect the little connector behind the alternator. It's shaped like a "D" and needs to be pinched to be removed. There are two side clips molded into the connector. Turn the engine on again and listen.
My belt was in a wrong position after it was replaced. My alternator died after the belt was replaced. Is this pure coincidence? I don't know.
In the EU we must pay more, more frequently, and accept to get no accurate answers to technical issues. Modern vehicles are loaded with electronics and those who decide to buy Asian cars never change. This is a severe threat to our industries.
This is where I am confused, you said the dealer changed because they had towas this a recall?
My 06 has 42K miles and running just fine.
I did just have my #2 glowplug replaced (the tip was broken off). That seemed to solve the problem of the engine producing white smoke from the exhaust in the morning.
Also, I had the Boost Solenoid Filter (a.k.a. lawnmower filter) replaced at the same time.
After these two fixes, my check engine light that had been on constantly for 1 year (dealer check codes, cleared codes, codes popped up affter a few days of driving.) finally went out by itself. It came back on again a few days later ( I am guessing because of the loss of power issue: driving 73mph, then Jeep drops power and speed down to 65mph with no apparent cause). But unlike the other times the CEL would go off by itself -- the Jeep was doing great in terms of performance when the CEL went off. It seems as if I have more problems with this on cold days or when there is a strong cross wind cutting across the front of the Jeep.
I ma thinking it has something to do with the EGR / Mass Air Flow Control Valve / or MAF sensor. Anybody have any insight? Should I just disconnect the EGR? I tried disconnecting the MAF sensor, but it seemed as if the Jeep ran worst after I did that.
Joe (joe_kelley@stotlerllc.com)
Your timing belts should be changed at 100,000 miles; ours at 60,000!
The problem is: the vehicle is the same :sick:
When all these 'worst case conditions' are put together, the vehicle becomes excessively expensive and Jeep sales suffer from such policy.
I was also told that no one in the USA could qualify for schedule "A" . So why put in a schedule "A" and just have a schedule "B" only?
Is Jeep still offering the V. M. Motori engine there? I have read nothing about a diesel Liberty returning here. Jeep does not even have the 4.L V-6 offered in the Nitro. We have the 4.L engine in our Pacifica, and it is a fast powerful engine, worlds ahead of the 3.7 L the Jeep Liberty's only engine on this side of the swamp. Are the Liberty's there with the CRD still a good respectable engine?
farout
Yes, the VM 2.8 CRD is still alive
http://www.jeep.fr/cherokee/jeep-cherokee-tarifs.html
It's the only engine offered, and I will not change mine for this newer model.
I do my maintenance (engine oil + air filter) every 20,000 miles and I check the axles and transfer case oil level every 4 years. My fuel filter cartridge is good for 30,000 miles, and that's it :P
I've had this Jeep 5 1/2 years and my only regret comes from the business attitude of Chrysler who imposes to sell everything at the price level of a Mercedes. This kills the American car spirit after a while.
Is there any chance of damaging the engine by putting a quart of gasoline in the tank?
I have a buddy who drove expedite , and he used to do the same out west in when Calgary when tempteratures dropped well below -30 C .
Is it the thinning of the fuel?..that allows more fuel to the cylinder ?..or is it that it burns hotter?..maybe easier to fire up initially?..
How about furl additives with alcohol "Methyl Hydrate" will this help?
Lightnin..
A small proportion of gasoline helps diesel fuel 'filtration' at lower temperatures. It gives mobility to the paraffin (wax) contained in the fuel, in other words the paraffin does not rapidly turn into solid wax and block the flow of fuel. If you put too much gasoline the fuel will self ignite and you're in real trouble especially when you have an automatic
I used 'White Spirit', an oily paint thinner that comes out of the refining process well before diesel fuel. It's close to Kerosene that we have in our winterized fuel.
I have no experience with alcohol based additives.
I just read a local article saying methanol will catch water stagnating in your diesel fuel tank and make it a combustible solution. The amount of water you can mix/catch with a quart of pure methanol corresponds to 12-15 fluid oz. This suits the common rail technology assuming every filter and water separator is in good working order. We should not go beyond this volume.
If you use a quart of 'burning alcohol', you can only absorb 3-5 fluid oz of water. In this case you are putting water in the tank :surprise:
It's a VERY long LAG (many, many seconds and could be up to a minute if I don;t stop and let it idle for several 3-10 seconds) and then go again.
It's at the shop right now so hopefully will know by tomorrow or Thursday.
Thanks for the input.
I did put fuel treatment in the other day and although it reduced how frequently it happened - it still happened and it was warmer. It also just doesn't seem like bad fuel (it's running fine - doesn't sputter or miss or sound weird - there is JUST no power when it happens. It feels like the turbo is not spooling up at all when it happens but is just so strange how it can come and go. Its in the shop as we speak so I will get some news pretty soon and post it.
I am keeping my fingers crossed that this new dealership I am going to has good diesel mechanics and know whatt he heck is going on.
Let me know if you have any luck with uyour situation.
Joe
I believe the two main error codes were P0299 - Boost Pressure Sensor
P0101 - MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor - these are similar to the other issues I have read about related to smoke - power loss but not identical to what I and others are decribing.
Original fault codes were
P0299 - Boost Pressure Sensor
P0101 - MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor
P0401 - EGR - he didn't mention this one yesterday.
They changed replaced the following and I am including everything even though some is normal maintenance & unrelated:
1. MAF sensor replaced
2. Fuel Filter replaced
3. Air Filter replaced
4. Oil/Filter Changed
5. Differential - Transmission Fluid change
7. Radiator flushed
8. Front brakes replaced and turned rotors
Took it out for test drive and the P0401 - EGR came back on but they hadn't replaced the EGR yet wanted to wait until after the MAF sensor and everything else was done. Apparently they have them in stock (not surprising as often as I hear about them failing) and will change in the morning and hopefully won't have the CEL come back on. We'll see what happens tomorrow. Thanks for all the info guys.
P0101 - MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor
P0401 - EGR - he didn't mention this one yesterday.
All these are codes are interconnected:
- If the EGR control valve remains jammed near the 'closed for fresh air flow' position, there is still some air pressure after the turbo and not enough flow of fresh air coming out of the airfilter box. Engine power is reduced.
- If a hose is disconnected before the turbo, the system sees another unsupported malfunction. The engine can run, but emissions control can force the 'limp' mode.
- If a hose is disconnected after the turbo, before the boost pressure sensor, then it waits for pressure to build up before injecting the mapped amount of fuel.
The ECU needs to sense:
fresh airflow + air temperature + atmospheric pressure + turbo boost + emission control status + "transmission ready" signals to allow maximum engine performance.
"Under normal conditions, do not operate the starter
for longer than 20 seconds at one time. At temperatures
below 5°F (15°C), you may operate the starter
for up to 25 seconds at one time. Longer periods of
operation may result in starter or battery damage. If
the engine does not start at once, repeat Steps 1
through 4."
i know it seems like a LOOOONNNGGGG time to spin the starter so if it don't start after five seconds or so i always start over.
i know i didn't really help any but i just wanted to share what i found out
In any case the sensor cost $35 at Jeep (a standard 3 Bar Bosch sensor) part number mopar 56044591AA. This sensor MAP and the MAF sensor which is on the air filter box primarily control the EGR valve.
If the EGR valve is opening incorrectly it will reduce your boost from your turbo, cause black smoke a high speeds and finally cause a complete failure of boost control where the vehicle totally looses acceleration and power. By the by. MAF sensor can be remove (two screws, phillips) and cleaned with CRC Electromotive spray, no brushing here please.
Maintenance on these item every 15,000 miles or replacement when they fail.
I observed that I have to wait 4 compression cycles before my engine starts at the beginning of the 5th compression, may it be winter or summer
Even when I restart the engine when it's still hot, it will only start when the 4th compression is accomplished; this may take time but allows the cylinders to empty unburned fuel and assure better compression (in theory).
As to adding gasoline to the fuel, I would be really careful here. You would probably be better off adding an anti-gel additive or some 1-K kerosene. I use the latter. Gasoline could reduce the lubricity of the fuel enough where you might get CP3 pump damage or worse, failure. The CP3 pump is the high pressure pump used to pressurize the common rail on the CRD and is not cheap to replace.
As to fuel additives, I stick to products from either RedLine oil or Amsoil.
My EGR Control valve went and the truck has been running like a top. Fuel mileage is great. No stalling, stuttering, shuddering or smoking. It turns out they want me to bring it in and get it replaced under warrenty. Not happening until someone really explains why... other then inspection.
I did not reconnect my EGR since 2004 and I accidentally took the truck for inspection
It turned out that it produces less opaque smoke than expected and the CO2 value was on the low side. I'm not complaining, but I know I'm walking on eggs
My winter mileage around the city is stable at 18.5 mpg since 3 months. I've used only Shell diesel fuel, the standard one (black label) and permanent 4WD . The V-Power diesel, more expensive, gives me less mileage.
I'm also making this test to evaluate tire wear: I have new BFG T/As with 5,000 miles and no visible difference between front and rear. The depth gage will be the judge.
I love the diesel but after 3EGR valves, fuel housing, torque converter and possible rear end problems (all under 40K miles) I called it quits. Too bad, I really liked the little diesel, it towed like a champ.
Who puts a heating element at the highest point in the fuel system where air is most likely to be, allowing the element to over heat? A lift pump in or near the fuel tank takes appears to care of this problem by guaranteeing fuel at the heating element.
Who puts tension ball joints on one of the strongest bodied 4-wheel drive vehicles out there that is likely to see rough service? It's like putting your grandmother's knees on an Olympic weight lifter. The problem can be solved by installing Moog "Problem Solver" ball joints but you still need regular inspections to be sure.
EGR valve is another fun topic. Let's make something that is likely to have problems and put it where it's almost easier to pull the engine than remove the EGR valve to clean it. Try this: when you get the code for EGR failure, run you engine in 3rd gear lockup at 55 mph for 3 or 4 miles to self-cleaning-oven bake the EGR valve in the full open position then floor it for a few seconds to fully close the valve. Clear the codes and maybe they will not come back for 8 or 10k miles, if you do this once a week or so maybe they won't come back at all. Works for me.
Torque converter, that topic has already been rubber-hosed......
With all the forum arround I can not believe that you all have this issues.
With about $3,500 you can resolve all of this issues and be a happy motoring.
EGR---SEGR
Fuel filter---Ranco
Cac---Samco
Tranny--- Suncoast
Fluid pump----New Pump
Air in fuel----fuel pump
No power---Inmotion
and so on. All of this is a thing of the Past; My friend CRD have 155k and all this work he did it at about 20k and ever since he has no problem and my ether. So get in to the ball.
As to the EGR valve, I had the original one replaced at 14K miles. Now have 48K on the Jeep and no heartburn from the replacement. But I do beat on the engine at least once daily (when thoroughly warm) as Caribou has suggested in the past.
Have done the torque converter recall and have replaced one since then. I do not tow! If the TC fails again, then I will put in something better (Suncoast or other) plus the Transgo transkit and that will be the end of that.
There is something I don't clearly understand:
Some folks find air bubbles in the fuel filter housing
- When I turn the engine OFF, I can still hear the sound of my (electrical) fuel priming pump for about one second after the engine died. This means the filter is pressurized at this point.
- I tend to start the engine 'a bit later', never immediately after the glow plug indicator turns off. I don't know at which moment the fuel priming pump is turned ON, but any delay at this point could cause air bubbles to get trapped by cavitation created by the fuel injection pump .
What do you think?
Like Winter2 I have had no problems. After a fuel filter change and priming I can never take an additional pump on the primer because it is solid no matter how long the vehicle sits without running. Anyone who can pump their primer on a daily basis has an air leak somewhere.