Jeep Liberty Diesel

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Comments

  • arvmanarvman Member Posts: 95
    I got a pdf version of the manial online some years ago,shop manual.I'm in Canada too let me know if you would like me to burn off a copy on cd and send it to you,cheers...
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    burn off a copy on cd and send it to you

    Unless the file is gigantic, it would probably be easier to simply email it. Just a thought. :)

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • tnilc99tnilc99 Member Posts: 15
    Caribou believe it or not I fully understand your description of the internal diagram
    of the converter, and based on that discription I would say that the coupler section
    of the flange rotor is probably what fails when you here the explanation of a Torque
    converter sounding like (rocks rotating around in a can) What say you on this???
    I sure would like to see a sketch of a cut away view of this beast.
    I have also heard of something in relation to turbine like fins breaking away internally within the housing. Whats that refering to if you know??
    Ok man thanks for the replies and take care until later.

    Tnilc99
  • chester5chester5 Member Posts: 9
    That would be great. My email is sdi@mnsi.net. If you could contact me there I can send you my address. Thanks a lot.
  • arvmanarvman Member Posts: 95
    tried emailing you,bounced back...
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    tnilc99:
    I just found this link (wikipedia) that may interest you:
    http://hotrodlane.cc/New%20HEMI%20Tech/2004%2057%20hemi%20trans.pdf

    There is also a PhD thesis somewhere on the web that defines a case study of our transmission...
  • siberiasiberia Member Posts: 520
    If some one can figure out how to raise the rear end ratio up
    a bit to allow 75 mph to be achieved at 2000 rpm that would be ideal.


    Tnilc99, you can get 74 mph at 2,000 rpm by changing to 225/85/16 tires. Taller tires will go through deep snow and mud a little better - given the same tread. Others have done this but I don't recommend it because it adversely affects handling a little (your want to drive faster) and makes the torque converter issue worse.

    As far as changing the gear ratio you would have to change ring gear and pinion in both the front and rear differentials. This is not cheap to do and you would still have the torque converter problem. Also, going with taller gears reduces you towing capacity a little. I don't think you have that much to gain here. I get a dependable 29.5 mpg on the highway at 1,900 rpm and 66 mph (summer fuel).

    What's the difference what part of the torque convert fails? Lets tell it like it is. The CRD has a very good tough little transmission and torque converter (better with the recall) that stands up to the torque of the Hemi V8 but not the impulse torque of this nasty little VM diesel. Even the upgraded SunCoast converters are not holding up for some people.

    Here's the way I look at it. If I stomp the pedal off the line my rear tires get cremated. If I hit the throttle just right a 54 mph and 1,700 rpm I can get the converter to judder (slip) at 1,800 rpm. My solution is to not do either one, for now.
  • tnilc99tnilc99 Member Posts: 15
    Caribou, Thanks a million that break down and operation explanation within the
    transmission manuel helped to gain the understanding as to whats going on
    during a function cycle of the converter. Now I can draw a mental picture as to
    whats happening internally. You know the old saying a picture is worth a thousand
    words. Guess I need to order the Jeep liberty cd manuel and I will now.
    I have to say this forum and the other one lost jeeps has allowed me to this point
    to fix every issue I have had over the last 3 years. Its nice not to have to depend
    on the stealership to get results.
    If you happen to run across that Thesis you mentioned, it sure would be nice if you
    would post its web address.
    Thanks again

    Tnilc99
  • mdamickmdamick Member Posts: 277
    It is a small 2 speed transmission that mounts between the transfer case and rear axle.
    I have see a small automatic unit that might work, it is usually used on larger trucks but it might fit.

    http://www.gearvendors.com/index.html
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Isn't this overdrive what was used on manual shifting cars 25 years ago?
    I had one on a GM that used the rotation of the transmission shaft to produce it's own hydraulic pressure. Then a 12V solenoid let the fluid push a wedge clutch that engaged the overdrive. As the car would come to a stop, the clutch came back into 1:1 ratio.
    The question is: how fast does this gearbox shift when you are in an emergency braking situation and when the ABS comes into action?
  • mdamickmdamick Member Posts: 277
    I have never used it, just saw it on the website.
    It looks like the one you described, possibly the same manufacturer.
  • tnilc99tnilc99 Member Posts: 15
    Thanks Mdamick for the reply, I will definitely look into this option, hell it may be
    just the edge Im looking for.

    Tnilc99
  • desmo750ssdesmo750ss Member Posts: 17
    This is what the dealer said from a service bulletin. Apparently the diode in the clutch assy is defective causing the PCM to fail.
    My 55Kmi CRD just died on the road with many engine codes. First they blamed that I ran out of fuel (with 1/4 left) then they said it was blowing fuses and was a bad harness. Now, after they spent 4 billable hours, they say its a bad PCM due to the bad diode. The good news is the PCM is under the 8/80 warranty. The bad news is that the labor and parts to replace the ac clutch is 1291 plus tax.
    Does this sound right or?........
    Thanks
  • mdamickmdamick Member Posts: 277
    It is possible.
    The diode is used to block the spike caused by the shutting off of power to the coil that runs the clutch. That spike could cause all sorts of things to happen in the PCM.

    I think $1300 for the A/C clutch is high, for that they must be replacing the whole compressor. The parts manual does not show the clutch as a separate part.

    If you have an 8/80 warranty, why doesn't it also cover the A/C?
  • desmo750ssdesmo750ss Member Posts: 17
    1300 includes the diagnosis of the problem. The PCM is covered under the emissions warranty but the AC clutch is not I only have the extended drivetrain warrantee so no coverage there. First they wanted to replace the entire AC compressor assy ($1790 quoted) but I argued successfully to only change the clutch and they agreed.
    Hans
  • synlubessynlubes Member Posts: 184
    my name is also hans what is your last name and where do you live
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    If you wish to exchange personal information, please take it email. Our members' security is important to us and we discourage posting personally identifiable information in our Forums.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Desmo750ss,
    I checked the diode and fuse issue:
    - The diode is located / soldered in the connector of the wiring harness.
    - It costs a few cents and a TV / Radio repair person can change it for you.

    There are several references that can be used, as long as they have low leakage current. Good luck (FJ36Y)
  • thstrangerthstranger Member Posts: 60
    I AM ABOUT TO DO MY FIRST TRANSMISSION FLUID CHANGE ON MY 2006 CRD,....HAS ANYONE POSTED ANY INFO ON WHAT IS NEEDED AND THE STEPS INVOLVED ?? THIS IS A GREAT SOURCE OF INFORMATION AND THANK YOU TO THOSE WHO SHARE THEIR WISDOM !!!!
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Type in "change transmission fluid" (without the quotes) into the search box below.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • thstrangerthstranger Member Posts: 60
    THANKS FOR THE INFO....I DON'T GUESS ANYONE HAS POSTED STEP BY STEP INSTRUCTIONS YET !!! :surprise:
  • nescosmonescosmo Member Posts: 453
    Make sure you change both filters and use only atf 4 nothing else I said nothing else or you will have shudders real bad.

    Nescosmo.
  • kesh25kesh25 Member Posts: 5
    My mechanic read code for Check Engine Light problems as follows:
    Insufficient flow through EGR, code P0401
    Mass airflow circuit, code P0101,
    and
    Turbocharger flow,code P0299
    Malfunction.

    Only about a month agoe the dealer serviced the vehicle, changed air filter, oil and so forth. What I understand, these items are not covered by warranty. Is this problem wide spread or isolated one?
  • synlubessynlubes Member Posts: 184
    unhook cooling line and let converter pump it out takes about one minute have done dozens of them and works great if the oil is very dirty will have to re flash but i haven't had to on any yet
  • ratsassratsass Member Posts: 1
    I am new to this Jeep diesel experience and have an '06 Liberty with 20000 miles. I have had numerous diesels in the past, and am familiar with diesel quirks. I was getting about 20-21mpg overall and decided to put an edge chip to get some better mileage. I have never chipped a diesel before and was wondering which setting would yield the best mileage. 1st setting is stock hp and torque. 2nd setting adds 15 hp and the 3rd setting adds 25 hp. The manual does not clearly state which settings should be used, except that the 3rd setting should not be used for towing or hot weather. Any help would be appreciated for getting my maximum mileage.
  • lightnin3lightnin3 Member Posts: 153
    why chip it ? unless you want to up the power on her?.. you may get a 1-2 mpg out of chipping it . but it is an expensive venture.
    here is a few suggestions for better mileage..
    When on the highway don't drive faster than 65 mph , you will find a lose of 20 % .
    rather stay in the trucking lane far away from trucks and cars, give your self space, drink a coffee and put some news or music leave 10 minutes early for work and put it in cruise control. the method is drive up to 65 mph then then to 55 mph. you'll notice when you call up your over head display on mileage and reset that there is a "big " difference in mileage after this point.
    "use the cruise"
    -Also changing the oil to the recommended 0 W 40 mobile every 7K miles,
    , when going on a long trip ,
    - fill up on..
    recpmmended.."premium fuels", anything that is better than the regular cheapest fuel on the block"
    for eg...
    B.P Premium diesel
    Sonoco "red"
    Shell "V power" ultra diesel
    Look for the higher " cetane type diesel fuels".
    and start using a cetane improver fuel additive like
    Power service
    or stanadyne ,
    or maybe even lucas formula for upper cylinder lube.

    -The next step is pumping your tires to 38 psi , and hoping you have your summer tires on not the monster mudder lugs ..

    I am also hoping you did the fluid changes on the tranny and differencials as well.
    Over all you'll notice a "big change in performance " when you do these little things.
    It worked for me , and now with fresh fuel , I am peaking at 38 mpg Ca. but my baby has 100,000 miles on her. so she is broken in , you may have this until 30,000 miles on yours .
    but try it .
    good luck ..
    Lightnin..
  • mdamickmdamick Member Posts: 277
    You have the standard EGR valve failure. The Turbo code always comes with it, I think so people will fix it (everybody wants the turbo up to snuff).
    I haven't seen the MAF code, but I wouldn't worry about it.

    You might try "blowing the nose" and see if the EGR will unstick.

    It is an expensive fix, I have disabled it to solve the problem, along with intermittent stalls.
  • siberiasiberia Member Posts: 520
    -The next step is pumping your tires to 38 psi , and hoping you have your summer tires on not the monster mudder lugs ..

    Just to add some supporting evidence that 38 psi is about right for fuel economy, at 65k miles my OEM tires are not completely worn out yet. Even at 38 psi the edges have worn faster than the centers of the tires. I'm not sure what reasons the manufacturer had for recommending such low tire pressure (What was it, 33 psi? Don't care really.), but it was not for fuel economy or tire life.
  • lightnin3lightnin3 Member Posts: 153
    Yes I agree with you .
    I just changed my winter tires over to the stock wranglers . It has been 4 yrs now , I have been switching my tires .Having a second set of tires and rims really paid off.
    It was one of the areas the company cheaped out on . maybe to bring the cost down. Thats' why they give away Liberty's on the lots so cheaply. Rubber costs $$'s.
    Yea I think , I actually gain about 2 mpg just pumping up my stock tires, compared to the mudder lugs..
    They were only to have a 60 K km's range anyway.
    You know it's funny a lot of people complain about their mileage in the winter monthes.. on here , but when I suggest a few tips , they never reply and say how they made out?..
    hmmm. I wonder if they realize ..oh darn !... I have to drive slower to get better mileage and buy decent fuel.... it is only common sense..really.
    I find the biggest mistake people do is speed . They are always in a hurry everywhere.
    Here in Windsor and all across Ontario we've had speed traps , so it is an incentive to slow down. I just do the "use the cruise " method and it works both ways.. So watch it, if you plan on coming for the air race in WIndsor ,or fireworks display for the July 4 th weekend, or maybe your planning on going to Toronto for a party, there isn't any allowance for speeding and they really soak you now.
    Cheers..
    Lightnin..
  • crash227crash227 Member Posts: 46
    I had the MAF sensor error code a few weeks ago. Fortunately for me, Autozone does not sell the sensor but they did recommend a spray cleaner to try. I took out the MAF sensor and sprayed the heated wire sensors with it, changed the air filter, and reconnected the battery cables. The MAD sensor ($150.00 part) is working fine now.
    I have been regularly "blowing the soot" out of my 2006 Liberty Diesel for the past 2 years. No problem with EGR or turbo boost pressure sensor. I do plan to remove the sensor and clean it this summer. I read in this forum that there is also some sort of filter? I'll check my OEM Service Manual for that.
  • mdamickmdamick Member Posts: 277
    The filter is for the boost vacuum unit. It is on the passenger side and looks like a fuel filter for a lawnmower. I have not worried about it @ 148000 mi.
  • kesh25kesh25 Member Posts: 5
    I really appreciate, Yesterday I had dealer perform Induction cleaning:@ $200, but did not clear the CEL. Now he wants to pull the EGR and check it.

    Do you know who could disable the EGR? Do you think the dealer would do it? He wants to pull thaty and check it? If you disable EGR would that impact the performance?or cause stalling?
  • mdamickmdamick Member Posts: 277
    The dealer won't do it.
    In my case, the EGR caused poor performance and stalling.
    They will either clean it out or replace it which will work for a while.
  • kesh25kesh25 Member Posts: 5
    That is what the dealer suggested, he wants to pull the EGR clean it or replace it as needed. Could I just drive around with CEL on? Upto this point there is no impact on the performance, no stalling and it runs great.
  • mdamickmdamick Member Posts: 277
    If it is stuck closed, you will notice less smoke and better off the line response.
    If it sticks open, it won't run worth beans.
  • lightnin3lightnin3 Member Posts: 153
    you would have to get the sensor changed and a new "reflash" on your CPU to resolve this.
    Of course a visit to your local Jeep dealer , , one that has a qualified diesel mechanic , that can work on 2.8L diesels will fix that .
    This is a little Ferrari of Suv's you have , ad needs regular maintenance since our fuel is dirty and the engine was never adjusted to north American fuels .
    How to curb your visits , is to start using premium fuel , such as B.P premium , is my favorite, Sonoco red, Shell Ultra , or "Vpower" diesels fuels.
    Also you will have to start using additives , one that cleans injectors, such lucas formula, or power service. Stanadyne is the best .
    This will help your performance .
    Stay away from discount fuel.. all you end up with is an engine light and a visit to the dealer.
    And don't forget to pump your tires to 38 psi. This wil at least save you some $$'s and raise your mileage factor.
    good luck..
    Lightnin
  • crash227crash227 Member Posts: 46
    I buy the Power Service Diesel Kleen + Cetane because it is available in big sizes and is what they have where I buy my Mobil 1 Synthetic Diesel Blend Oil. So far that seems to have kept my engine running well. I use it in every tank of fuel I buy. I just returned from a four (4) day trip of about 1,200 miles and averaged over 28 MPG at expressway speeds of 72 to 77 MPH. I started the trip with a new Air Filter & Oil Change. I now have about 75k miles on my '06 Liberty Diesel so maybe it is just getting broken in now. The MPG seems to improve every year!
  • lightnin3lightnin3 Member Posts: 153
    Hey thats great to hear Crash.!!
    It's funny usually guys get on here and complain about some problem they have. Well it's about time someone actually gets some performance out of her , other than me.
    Did you try pumping your tires to 38 psi ? , and how about using premium grade fuels other than the Flying J brand ?.. at the local truck stop..

    I would like to see if someone can beat my average 33 mpg yet?.. .
    Where are you located ?.
    Do you have B.P. stations with Diesel out there?. if they do , the next time your on a road trip try a premium fuel instead.
    there are 2 different grades available , just have to find a station that serves 2 grades.
    B.P premium,Shell V power ultra diesel. , Sonoco red , Citgo #1 , Texaco premium. and so on.
    If you look around to the different "gas stations" that serve diesel , the better ones will serve a premium grade with a higher Cetane level usually around 45-50 points compared to the regular #2 grade diesel fuel with a cetane level of 40.

    I have been lucky to have access to Shell Vpower fuels here in Windsor Canada that claim that they have a rating of 50-55 .
    after using it I averageed 26 in the city and 33 on the highway.
    along with using the additives like Stanadyne cetane improver
    I have had the best results with this product.
    But when I can't get this , I use power service in the "silver bottle" that claims 6 point increase in cetane boost.
    Which I believe is a good product but haven't had results like Stanadyne.they seem to be the best product I have used so far.
    When I can't get these, I use Lucas formula upper cylinder lube and actually had good results with this as well . but not as good as a cetane improver.

    Also if your not on a long trip lets say an hour , why not experiment with your speed? .
    take your time in the right lane have space between the trucks , and set your cruise at 70 then decel to 55 mph . try to get your rpm's lower than 1800.
    On my best day so far I have reach 38 mpg ,I must have had a tail wind ..
    just make sure you have lots of space between the trucks and you when your on the highway . that way the speeders will see you in lots of time.
    I actually found travelling 70+ mph I lost on average 20% fuel economy.

    Well good luck
    hope to hear from you soon on your results after a tank full of the good stuff..
    Lightnin..

    Also utilize that over head console for the mileage and press reset when your at the 55 mph mark. and then reset the mileage counter and watch the mileage go up.
    It will give you incentive to slow down if your not in a hurry to get somewhere. that is..
  • sphinxcrdsphinxcrd Member Posts: 1
    I have owned many turbocharged cars and trucks and I noticed something different about my crd. Most diesels I have owned have hard intercooler piping and most cars with turbos at least have an aftermarket options available. However I have found nothing for the liberty. Have you ever popped the hood and had someone rev the engine? It blows up like a balloon until that net wrapping stuff contains some of it. Is this normal or has someone replaced my pipes with some kind of sub-standard thin hose to handle the 25+psi air coming off of the turbo?
  • wvav8torwvav8tor Member Posts: 12
    Hello all, I just wanted to add my 2 cents worth here about the CRD. Mostly what I have read here is about all the problems and what to do about them. I know that is what you would expect to hear at any site of this nature because for the most part if there is nothing wrong than you simply just don’t post about it.
    I just wanted to let everyone know about my positive experiences so far. I have owned a 2006 limited sense October 08, when I picked it up it had 26000 miles on it. I than began to read some of the stories of problems here and became quite concerned. I also read about some of the mods to maybe eliminate some of the ills of this engine. I did the Elephant hose by pass and the EGR by pass using a code reader to reset the engine light indicator…not a big thing to do if it gets rid of these concerns.
    So after 12000 miles of ownership I am here to report absolutely no problems of any kind. I notice sense doing these modifications that no matter how I run the thing it never blows black smoke. I just recently did a trip through southern WV taking the opportunity to take pictures of that part of the state. I did a lot of back roads going up and down some pretty steep terrain including gravel roads. Also made stops along the road to take photos while leaving the Jeep idling. I then spent an hour in Chareston driving around looking for a place to eat.
    On the return to home I stayed on the interstate, the trip was about 900 miles. I did not reset the electronic mileage indicator the entire way hoping this would add more to the overall accuracy. I pulled in to my driveway I punch the computer and was pleasantly surprised with an amazing 29.8 miles per gallon!!
    I love this vehicle not only for its fuel mileage but for is handling, ride and gobs of power. I have sirrus radio but I find I leave it off most of the time just to listen to the rattle of the engine…God I love that sound. Now watch the damn thing will probably throw a rod tomorrow.

    dusty
  • dukecoladukecola Member Posts: 2
    Hi Folks, Ok I've read thru about half of the 11000 posts on this forum, wow quite a bit of info. So, please let me know if I summarize correctly....

    Assuming I can purchase a 06 with low miles (29k) for a real good price, thousands below book, if I use this savings to do a few things, will the purchase be worth it? From what I gathered the TC is the biggest issue, so if I replace it with the aftermarket one, I would have the biggest issue solved? Then, different tires, ensure ball joints are done. (Question on ball joints later). EGR valve seem to be the next biggest issue but from what I've read, disconnecting or ignoring is the thing to do. Lastly, purchasing a extended warranty to 100k to cover all the other things, please tell me if I'm on the right track or if I should avoid this car altogether? Thanks.

    Oh yea, ball joints. No one goes into detail, but if the stock orig ones are replaced does the dealer install the same joints that will fail again, or are they different ones solving the problem?

    Also, a little history, I've had many diesels since 1981, 4 VW's (Still have a Rabbit truck going strong, 60mpg), two Isuzus, a piece of crap GM6.5TD (you think the CRD is a lemon!), and my current Jeep Grand Cherokee with the Mercedes CDR, sweet car!

    Thanks, any help appreciated.

    Duke
  • storageguystorageguy Member Posts: 30
    Hello, well you have done your research, however the CRD is no VW, I think it is a better vehicle all round but I guess time will tell. My 06 had a couple of factory re-calls, done well and no further problems. I use a diesel additive and have had 1 EGR change in 50,000 miles. I have met a fellow with an 06, his has 120,000 on it and other than the EGR and tranny recall all has been good with his as well. We experience Canadian winters and the sound of a cold start CRD is something to behold. A lot of noise, rattles and smoke for 30 seconds or so. A great winter driving machine. All that said, one from time one must re-boot by switching the ignition off, waiting a short spell and then restarting. Hope this may be of help :)
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    I own a 2005 CRD and just passed 52K miles on mine. As it gets more miles on it, the fuel economy gets better.

    As to problems, I had the EGR replaced at 14k miles, one computer reflash at 680 miles, ball joint recall and the F37 recall. Since then, the 2nd TC failed at 42K but when the tech at the dealer I use got into it, the Florida dealer that had done the F37 had performed a sloppy job and left out a part or two. Outside of that I am love my CRD.

    Doing good basic maintenance on the engine and the drivetrain is a must. Keeping the boost sensor in the intake manifold clean will save the hoses between the CAC and the engine.
  • jeepster44jeepster44 Member Posts: 1
    I know that there is a fuse box under to hood in the front. My question is; is there another box under the dash or somewhere else? One day my jeep was idleing in the driveway and just stopped. It sat for about three months and the battery went dead. Got it charged and like a dummy crossed the posts when I was putting it back in. Turned battery around and properly installed it. Now the Jeep will start, but all of the gauges go all the way around until I turn the key. Also, the radio is dead and my electric locks don't work. All of the fuses under the hood are ok. So, I'm thinking there may be some more some where else. Can someone help me out?
    Jeepster44
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    To find the fusebox, open the driver's door all the way. Look for an oblong shaped panel with a dimple at the bottom. Pull that panel out and there you will find the fuse box.
  • thstrangerthstranger Member Posts: 60
    THANKS NESCOSMO,
    I GOT EVERYTHING INCLUDING THE FLUID FROM THE DEALER....THE PARTS GUY SAID IT WOULD TAKE AROUND 5 QUARTS JUST DROPING THE PAN...JUST DROPING THE PAN, HOW MUCH OLD FLUID WOULD I BE LEAVING IN THE TRANSMISSION ?? I'M GUESSING BOTH FILTERS WILL BE ABOVE THE PAN ??
  • dukecoladukecola Member Posts: 2
    Just purchased a 2006, sight unseen. Will be picking it up at the Jeep dealer tomorrow. Vehicle has only 9000 miles! Purchased the MAX care warranty online, zero deductable. Will have 4 yrs with full coverage. Clean Carfax, none of the recalls have been done. So my question is, is the first thing I should do is have the TC recall done? Also, does anyone know if the dealer will do this labor free and install the Suncoast TC if I supply it? Thanks.
  • nicku812nicku812 Member Posts: 13
    I did an alomst exact time.; I purchased by CRD a 2006 Jeep liberty with all the bells and whistles also signt unseen.

    I found it on line throught auto trader.com and called the dealer and he was doing a recall on the torque converter as we were speaking. Plus they had to flash the computer with the new converter. Other than that recall I had no problems. My CRD had 5600 miles and I had it almost 3 years now.

    Only other problem was when I changed fuel filter they did not do it correctly and the o-rings on the housing got loose and caused a fuel problem and of course the engine light came on. My local dealer fixed the problems under warrant with no problem. My daughter drives it and loves the good mileage she gets. about 33-35 ion the highway and about 20 in the city.
  • oscarfree1oscarfree1 Member Posts: 3
    my glow plugs keep going bad on my jeep liberty crd. i have replaced th egr valve and all glow plugs in the last 1year.
  • jek443jek443 Member Posts: 12
    I have had the same problem with my Jeep. Make sure that your mechanic is paying close attention to the wiring sequence. From what my JEEP mechanic (Chrysler/ Dodge) told me is that when these jeeps were built with these engines, chrysler didn't and still does have a real comprehensive repair manual for the Jeep Diesels. My JEEP mechanic that does great work on the Dodge 1 ton diesels had problems getting correct information from Chrysler. Finally, he figured out that the glow plug wiring is differnt than Dodge Diesels.

    Port Lavaca Jeep (361)-553-7384 ask for Rudy (service) this is a really good group of guys to deal with. They will probaly give you or your mechanic alot of the infomration over the phone.
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