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Unless the file is gigantic, it would probably be easier to simply email it. Just a thought.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
of the converter, and based on that discription I would say that the coupler section
of the flange rotor is probably what fails when you here the explanation of a Torque
converter sounding like (rocks rotating around in a can) What say you on this???
I sure would like to see a sketch of a cut away view of this beast.
I have also heard of something in relation to turbine like fins breaking away internally within the housing. Whats that refering to if you know??
Ok man thanks for the replies and take care until later.
Tnilc99
I just found this link (wikipedia) that may interest you:
http://hotrodlane.cc/New%20HEMI%20Tech/2004%2057%20hemi%20trans.pdf
There is also a PhD thesis somewhere on the web that defines a case study of our transmission...
a bit to allow 75 mph to be achieved at 2000 rpm that would be ideal.
Tnilc99, you can get 74 mph at 2,000 rpm by changing to 225/85/16 tires. Taller tires will go through deep snow and mud a little better - given the same tread. Others have done this but I don't recommend it because it adversely affects handling a little (your want to drive faster) and makes the torque converter issue worse.
As far as changing the gear ratio you would have to change ring gear and pinion in both the front and rear differentials. This is not cheap to do and you would still have the torque converter problem. Also, going with taller gears reduces you towing capacity a little. I don't think you have that much to gain here. I get a dependable 29.5 mpg on the highway at 1,900 rpm and 66 mph (summer fuel).
What's the difference what part of the torque convert fails? Lets tell it like it is. The CRD has a very good tough little transmission and torque converter (better with the recall) that stands up to the torque of the Hemi V8 but not the impulse torque of this nasty little VM diesel. Even the upgraded SunCoast converters are not holding up for some people.
Here's the way I look at it. If I stomp the pedal off the line my rear tires get cremated. If I hit the throttle just right a 54 mph and 1,700 rpm I can get the converter to judder (slip) at 1,800 rpm. My solution is to not do either one, for now.
transmission manuel helped to gain the understanding as to whats going on
during a function cycle of the converter. Now I can draw a mental picture as to
whats happening internally. You know the old saying a picture is worth a thousand
words. Guess I need to order the Jeep liberty cd manuel and I will now.
I have to say this forum and the other one lost jeeps has allowed me to this point
to fix every issue I have had over the last 3 years. Its nice not to have to depend
on the stealership to get results.
If you happen to run across that Thesis you mentioned, it sure would be nice if you
would post its web address.
Thanks again
Tnilc99
I have see a small automatic unit that might work, it is usually used on larger trucks but it might fit.
http://www.gearvendors.com/index.html
I had one on a GM that used the rotation of the transmission shaft to produce it's own hydraulic pressure. Then a 12V solenoid let the fluid push a wedge clutch that engaged the overdrive. As the car would come to a stop, the clutch came back into 1:1 ratio.
The question is: how fast does this gearbox shift when you are in an emergency braking situation and when the ABS comes into action?
It looks like the one you described, possibly the same manufacturer.
just the edge Im looking for.
Tnilc99
My 55Kmi CRD just died on the road with many engine codes. First they blamed that I ran out of fuel (with 1/4 left) then they said it was blowing fuses and was a bad harness. Now, after they spent 4 billable hours, they say its a bad PCM due to the bad diode. The good news is the PCM is under the 8/80 warranty. The bad news is that the labor and parts to replace the ac clutch is 1291 plus tax.
Does this sound right or?........
Thanks
The diode is used to block the spike caused by the shutting off of power to the coil that runs the clutch. That spike could cause all sorts of things to happen in the PCM.
I think $1300 for the A/C clutch is high, for that they must be replacing the whole compressor. The parts manual does not show the clutch as a separate part.
If you have an 8/80 warranty, why doesn't it also cover the A/C?
Hans
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
I checked the diode and fuse issue:
- The diode is located / soldered in the connector of the wiring harness.
- It costs a few cents and a TV / Radio repair person can change it for you.
There are several references that can be used, as long as they have low leakage current. Good luck (FJ36Y)
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Nescosmo.
Insufficient flow through EGR, code P0401
Mass airflow circuit, code P0101,
and
Turbocharger flow,code P0299
Malfunction.
Only about a month agoe the dealer serviced the vehicle, changed air filter, oil and so forth. What I understand, these items are not covered by warranty. Is this problem wide spread or isolated one?
here is a few suggestions for better mileage..
When on the highway don't drive faster than 65 mph , you will find a lose of 20 % .
rather stay in the trucking lane far away from trucks and cars, give your self space, drink a coffee and put some news or music leave 10 minutes early for work and put it in cruise control. the method is drive up to 65 mph then then to 55 mph. you'll notice when you call up your over head display on mileage and reset that there is a "big " difference in mileage after this point.
"use the cruise"
-Also changing the oil to the recommended 0 W 40 mobile every 7K miles,
, when going on a long trip ,
- fill up on..
recpmmended.."premium fuels", anything that is better than the regular cheapest fuel on the block"
for eg...
B.P Premium diesel
Sonoco "red"
Shell "V power" ultra diesel
Look for the higher " cetane type diesel fuels".
and start using a cetane improver fuel additive like
Power service
or stanadyne ,
or maybe even lucas formula for upper cylinder lube.
-The next step is pumping your tires to 38 psi , and hoping you have your summer tires on not the monster mudder lugs ..
I am also hoping you did the fluid changes on the tranny and differencials as well.
Over all you'll notice a "big change in performance " when you do these little things.
It worked for me , and now with fresh fuel , I am peaking at 38 mpg Ca. but my baby has 100,000 miles on her. so she is broken in , you may have this until 30,000 miles on yours .
but try it .
good luck ..
Lightnin..
I haven't seen the MAF code, but I wouldn't worry about it.
You might try "blowing the nose" and see if the EGR will unstick.
It is an expensive fix, I have disabled it to solve the problem, along with intermittent stalls.
Just to add some supporting evidence that 38 psi is about right for fuel economy, at 65k miles my OEM tires are not completely worn out yet. Even at 38 psi the edges have worn faster than the centers of the tires. I'm not sure what reasons the manufacturer had for recommending such low tire pressure (What was it, 33 psi? Don't care really.), but it was not for fuel economy or tire life.
I just changed my winter tires over to the stock wranglers . It has been 4 yrs now , I have been switching my tires .Having a second set of tires and rims really paid off.
It was one of the areas the company cheaped out on . maybe to bring the cost down. Thats' why they give away Liberty's on the lots so cheaply. Rubber costs $$'s.
Yea I think , I actually gain about 2 mpg just pumping up my stock tires, compared to the mudder lugs..
They were only to have a 60 K km's range anyway.
You know it's funny a lot of people complain about their mileage in the winter monthes.. on here , but when I suggest a few tips , they never reply and say how they made out?..
hmmm. I wonder if they realize ..oh darn !... I have to drive slower to get better mileage and buy decent fuel.... it is only common sense..really.
I find the biggest mistake people do is speed . They are always in a hurry everywhere.
Here in Windsor and all across Ontario we've had speed traps , so it is an incentive to slow down. I just do the "use the cruise " method and it works both ways.. So watch it, if you plan on coming for the air race in WIndsor ,or fireworks display for the July 4 th weekend, or maybe your planning on going to Toronto for a party, there isn't any allowance for speeding and they really soak you now.
Cheers..
Lightnin..
I have been regularly "blowing the soot" out of my 2006 Liberty Diesel for the past 2 years. No problem with EGR or turbo boost pressure sensor. I do plan to remove the sensor and clean it this summer. I read in this forum that there is also some sort of filter? I'll check my OEM Service Manual for that.
Do you know who could disable the EGR? Do you think the dealer would do it? He wants to pull thaty and check it? If you disable EGR would that impact the performance?or cause stalling?
In my case, the EGR caused poor performance and stalling.
They will either clean it out or replace it which will work for a while.
If it sticks open, it won't run worth beans.
Of course a visit to your local Jeep dealer , , one that has a qualified diesel mechanic , that can work on 2.8L diesels will fix that .
This is a little Ferrari of Suv's you have , ad needs regular maintenance since our fuel is dirty and the engine was never adjusted to north American fuels .
How to curb your visits , is to start using premium fuel , such as B.P premium , is my favorite, Sonoco red, Shell Ultra , or "Vpower" diesels fuels.
Also you will have to start using additives , one that cleans injectors, such lucas formula, or power service. Stanadyne is the best .
This will help your performance .
Stay away from discount fuel.. all you end up with is an engine light and a visit to the dealer.
And don't forget to pump your tires to 38 psi. This wil at least save you some $$'s and raise your mileage factor.
good luck..
Lightnin
It's funny usually guys get on here and complain about some problem they have. Well it's about time someone actually gets some performance out of her , other than me.
Did you try pumping your tires to 38 psi ? , and how about using premium grade fuels other than the Flying J brand ?.. at the local truck stop..
I would like to see if someone can beat my average 33 mpg yet?.. .
Where are you located ?.
Do you have B.P. stations with Diesel out there?. if they do , the next time your on a road trip try a premium fuel instead.
there are 2 different grades available , just have to find a station that serves 2 grades.
B.P premium,Shell V power ultra diesel. , Sonoco red , Citgo #1 , Texaco premium. and so on.
If you look around to the different "gas stations" that serve diesel , the better ones will serve a premium grade with a higher Cetane level usually around 45-50 points compared to the regular #2 grade diesel fuel with a cetane level of 40.
I have been lucky to have access to Shell Vpower fuels here in Windsor Canada that claim that they have a rating of 50-55 .
after using it I averageed 26 in the city and 33 on the highway.
along with using the additives like Stanadyne cetane improver
I have had the best results with this product.
But when I can't get this , I use power service in the "silver bottle" that claims 6 point increase in cetane boost.
Which I believe is a good product but haven't had results like Stanadyne.they seem to be the best product I have used so far.
When I can't get these, I use Lucas formula upper cylinder lube and actually had good results with this as well . but not as good as a cetane improver.
Also if your not on a long trip lets say an hour , why not experiment with your speed? .
take your time in the right lane have space between the trucks , and set your cruise at 70 then decel to 55 mph . try to get your rpm's lower than 1800.
On my best day so far I have reach 38 mpg ,I must have had a tail wind ..
just make sure you have lots of space between the trucks and you when your on the highway . that way the speeders will see you in lots of time.
I actually found travelling 70+ mph I lost on average 20% fuel economy.
Well good luck
hope to hear from you soon on your results after a tank full of the good stuff..
Lightnin..
Also utilize that over head console for the mileage and press reset when your at the 55 mph mark. and then reset the mileage counter and watch the mileage go up.
It will give you incentive to slow down if your not in a hurry to get somewhere. that is..
I just wanted to let everyone know about my positive experiences so far. I have owned a 2006 limited sense October 08, when I picked it up it had 26000 miles on it. I than began to read some of the stories of problems here and became quite concerned. I also read about some of the mods to maybe eliminate some of the ills of this engine. I did the Elephant hose by pass and the EGR by pass using a code reader to reset the engine light indicator not a big thing to do if it gets rid of these concerns.
So after 12000 miles of ownership I am here to report absolutely no problems of any kind. I notice sense doing these modifications that no matter how I run the thing it never blows black smoke. I just recently did a trip through southern WV taking the opportunity to take pictures of that part of the state. I did a lot of back roads going up and down some pretty steep terrain including gravel roads. Also made stops along the road to take photos while leaving the Jeep idling. I then spent an hour in Chareston driving around looking for a place to eat.
On the return to home I stayed on the interstate, the trip was about 900 miles. I did not reset the electronic mileage indicator the entire way hoping this would add more to the overall accuracy. I pulled in to my driveway I punch the computer and was pleasantly surprised with an amazing 29.8 miles per gallon!!
I love this vehicle not only for its fuel mileage but for is handling, ride and gobs of power. I have sirrus radio but I find I leave it off most of the time just to listen to the rattle of the engine God I love that sound. Now watch the damn thing will probably throw a rod tomorrow.
dusty
Assuming I can purchase a 06 with low miles (29k) for a real good price, thousands below book, if I use this savings to do a few things, will the purchase be worth it? From what I gathered the TC is the biggest issue, so if I replace it with the aftermarket one, I would have the biggest issue solved? Then, different tires, ensure ball joints are done. (Question on ball joints later). EGR valve seem to be the next biggest issue but from what I've read, disconnecting or ignoring is the thing to do. Lastly, purchasing a extended warranty to 100k to cover all the other things, please tell me if I'm on the right track or if I should avoid this car altogether? Thanks.
Oh yea, ball joints. No one goes into detail, but if the stock orig ones are replaced does the dealer install the same joints that will fail again, or are they different ones solving the problem?
Also, a little history, I've had many diesels since 1981, 4 VW's (Still have a Rabbit truck going strong, 60mpg), two Isuzus, a piece of crap GM6.5TD (you think the CRD is a lemon!), and my current Jeep Grand Cherokee with the Mercedes CDR, sweet car!
Thanks, any help appreciated.
Duke
As to problems, I had the EGR replaced at 14k miles, one computer reflash at 680 miles, ball joint recall and the F37 recall. Since then, the 2nd TC failed at 42K but when the tech at the dealer I use got into it, the Florida dealer that had done the F37 had performed a sloppy job and left out a part or two. Outside of that I am love my CRD.
Doing good basic maintenance on the engine and the drivetrain is a must. Keeping the boost sensor in the intake manifold clean will save the hoses between the CAC and the engine.
Jeepster44
I GOT EVERYTHING INCLUDING THE FLUID FROM THE DEALER....THE PARTS GUY SAID IT WOULD TAKE AROUND 5 QUARTS JUST DROPING THE PAN...JUST DROPING THE PAN, HOW MUCH OLD FLUID WOULD I BE LEAVING IN THE TRANSMISSION ?? I'M GUESSING BOTH FILTERS WILL BE ABOVE THE PAN ??
I found it on line throught auto trader.com and called the dealer and he was doing a recall on the torque converter as we were speaking. Plus they had to flash the computer with the new converter. Other than that recall I had no problems. My CRD had 5600 miles and I had it almost 3 years now.
Only other problem was when I changed fuel filter they did not do it correctly and the o-rings on the housing got loose and caused a fuel problem and of course the engine light came on. My local dealer fixed the problems under warrant with no problem. My daughter drives it and loves the good mileage she gets. about 33-35 ion the highway and about 20 in the city.
Port Lavaca Jeep (361)-553-7384 ask for Rudy (service) this is a really good group of guys to deal with. They will probaly give you or your mechanic alot of the infomration over the phone.