Jeep Liberty Diesel

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Comments

  • thstrangerthstranger Member Posts: 60
    I GOT EVERYTHING INCLUDING THE FLUID FROM THE DEALER....THE PARTS GUY SAID IT WOULD TAKE AROUND 5 QUARTS JUST DROPING THE PAN...JUST DROPING THE PAN, HOW MUCH OLD FLUID WOULD I BE LEAVING IN THE TRANSMISSION ?? I'M GUESSING BOTH FILTERS WILL BE ACCESSABLE WHEN I DROP THE PAN ??
  • justdbjustdb Member Posts: 1
    After the flash the TC doesn't lock up until reaching 62mph.( tach drops from 2K-1.75) After lock up it drops back out at about 57 MPH. With prevailing speed limits of 55 in my area, it seems that this would be detrimental to max mileage. The dealer contends this is normal. Does anyone else have this problem? Any solutions? Purchased the vehicle new and have had no problems other than those dealt with in recalls, now approaching 60K miles. Dennis
  • emp2emp2 Member Posts: 20
    I have a 2006 liberty that had the tc problem done at the factory before shipping .It locks up at 64 mph and drops out at 61 . I think the only way to change the problem would be to have it flashed back to the original settings .
  • lightnin3lightnin3 Member Posts: 153
    If you had the glow plugs installed at the dealer , they warranty them for a year. just keep the resiepts of the work done and purchase order. they will replace them for free. Bosch stands behind their Asian made product anytime..
  • thstrangerthstranger Member Posts: 60
    I GOT EVERYTHING INCLUDING THE FLUID FROM THE DEALER....THE PARTS GUY SAID IT WOULD TAKE AROUND 5 QUARTS JUST DROPING THE PAN...JUST DROPING THE PAN, HOW MUCH OLD FLUID WOULD I BE LEAVING IN THE TRANSMISSION ?? I'M GUESSING BOTH FILTERS WILL BE ACCESSABLE WHEN I DROP THE PAN ??
  • propwashpropwash Member Posts: 2
    How do you reset the engine lite?I got some crap in a tank of diesel.The engine lost power and the engine lite came on,but still ran under lite loads.When I returned home I changed the fuel filter and the engine now runs fine,but the engine lite stays on.Any ideas?Also,whats the best way to change the fuel filter without making a mess?
    Joe
  • thstrangerthstranger Member Posts: 60
    I GOT EVERYTHING INCLUDING THE FLUID FROM THE DEALER....THE PARTS GUY SAID IT WOULD TAKE AROUND 5 QUARTS JUST DROPING THE PAN...JUST DROPING THE PAN, HOW MUCH OLD FLUID WOULD I BE LEAVING IN THE TRANSMISSION ?? I'M GUESSING BOTH FILTERS WILL BE ACCESSABLE WHEN I DROP THE PAN ??
  • tnilc99tnilc99 Member Posts: 15
    Hey Nes, how have you and the liberty been doing? I havent been on the forum for a while now, been busy at work. I have some update data for you concerning the propane feed system I developed. The best results I have right now is a flow rate
    of 5.0 scim which raises my Mpg to 5.3. I drive interstate to work every day and average speed is 75 to 80 mph. These results are accomplished with 100% bio diesel. I havent used petro diesel for about 30,000 miles now, so I dont have any
    data on petro at all. If big oil would let the price get back to $2.00 a gallon I would
    use it long enough to get the comparison data. Just guessing I would think that the milage would be a little better due to the higher BTU value of petro.
    Once I have found the best possible results with propane, I will hook the hydrogen generator back into the configuration and see what the top end Mpg will be.
    Right now my milage is 25.8 with propane and 20.3 without it. The additional cost last time I checked was .03 cents per mile.
    Ok partner take care and I will catch yuh later.

    Tnilc99
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Today I attempted to change out the fluid in the front differential but ran into a problem. I got the skid plate off with a 16mm socket. The drain plug takes an eight mm hex. However, the fill plug takes something totally foreign. A hex wrench does not work and the opening looks square. A 3/8 inch drive extension end is too large while a 1/4 inch drive extension end is too small. What tool do I need to purchase?

    Thank you in advance.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Hi winter2,
    It seems a 3/8" ratchet should be appropriate:
    http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Jeep_Liberty/Torque_Specs_&_Socket_Sizes
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Already tried the 3/8 inch ratchet and it did not seem to fit. I will try again.

    Thanks
  • kesh25kesh25 Member Posts: 5
    I did the Elephant hose by pass and the EGR by pass using a code reader to reset the engine light indicator…not a big thing to do if it gets rid of these concerns.
    How do you do this? Could a local mechnic do this type of by-pass?
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Finally got the 3/8 inch ratchet to work after I cleaned out the opening. Had a few tiny bits of brass in the old front gear lube, but I was told to expect that.

    The rear differential took a bit longer as I pulled the covering from the pumpkin. I now understand why the tech at the dealer removes the cover. There was a bunch of goo stuck to the magnet (ferrous). A thin coating of black film was stuck to the plate I had removed which I cleaned off with Castle Shop Solv. I used the same solvent to clean off the same film from the gears and spiders to make sure they were in good order which they were.

    I sealed the rear diff plate with a grey RTV (the tech gave it to me), left it to cure for 2.5 hours and filled both diffs with Amsoil Severe Gear 75W-90 gear oil. Since I do not tow, the 75W-90 is fine for both diffs.
  • tired_old_davetired_old_dave Member Posts: 710
    Congratulations. Caribou beat me to the answer. Just happened to check in to see how you and the others were doing. Did you have the orange assembly glue or RTV from the factory on the cover. If you remember, I had the orange dried mess and used an antique brass machinist brush to clean the face. Did you happen to check on the gear lash and wear of the ring gear. Nice to see you are a loyal to Amsoil. Good luck. No need to respond. Wish you a million plus miles and many happy and safe journeys.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Dave,

    Nice to hear from you. I had the orange RTV on the cover and got all of it off with a Dremel tool and a coarse nylon buffer. I did clean everything and looked at the wear pattern on the gears and they seemed to be appropriate based on what the tech showed me. I do not know how to check the gear lash.

    As to my loyalty to Amsoil, it is a mixed loyalty. I have had good luck with their gear oils and their greases and their oils meant for gassers. The oil they have for the CRD just did not cut it and I had some consumption issues that I resolved by switching to RedLine 5W-40. It is a bit more money but it works better and I have much less turbo lag than with any of the other oils I have tried. I have also started using Lubro Moly Super Diesel additive in the fuel. The engine is now quieter and more potent. Also, there is no smoke (or very little). It is expensive at $3.79 per can which treats 20 gallons of diesel added every 620 miles (1000 km).
  • nescosmonescosmo Member Posts: 453
    Hi dave nice to hear from you, how is your Hummer.

    Winter I did the 2002air box conversion and the idle hesitation was part of the CRD but one day I took the elbow off and from there on the hesitation went away. look like it was asking for more air. Well now works great.

    The oil that I use is Schaeffer 9000 and works great, also I install a RuffStuff cover on the back, came with a drain plug and a filler.

    Dave after $2500.00 my CRD is working sOOOOOO good no more issues; Now is when I do enjoy it.
  • wvav8torwvav8tor Member Posts: 12
    Go here and read...http://www.lostkjs.com/forum/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=24961 so easy a caveman could do it.
  • cdp3cdp3 Member Posts: 4
    Can anyone tell me the size and pitch of the CRD oil drain plug. My local dealer did my last oil change and stripped mine out and refused to fix it. I think I can run a fine thread 5/8" - 18 in the hole and get an oversize 5/8 drain plug to work, but it would be nice to know the size and thread pitch of the factory plug.
  • desmo750ssdesmo750ss Member Posts: 17
    I don't know, but I am guessing that its metric considering the origin of the engine and that most US manufacturers have been slowly going metric (one inch at a time!)
  • tired_old_davetired_old_dave Member Posts: 710
    Winter,

    Thank you. When the CRD was traded in, it was running redline. It was the best it ever ran. If it was you who first posted about bitog years ago - Thanks again. Saw the link to the amsoil gear test and talked to Dave about their response and he sent me an email. Redline in the H3 quieted the tire hum which was really the gm synthetic lube. Sorry couldn't get the answer to you sooner-just like now.

    Took early social security (check pays for the rubicon) but kept part/full temp technical position which went from - did the work go offshore to what the heck when can I sleep. Been posting in the jeep forum (and elsewhere and received a rightful post pulling), but try to check here for auld lang syne. If if wasn't for the CRD and going to the local dealer and meeting Sean (dealership got axed) I never would be in a rubicon now. It is weird, I like it more than the CRD even with it's fiberglass/plastic roof, basic doors, seats that feel like an old straight wooden chair with some foam. It has mirrors you adjust once with a finger push on the mirror and on and on. But is it is a disease? It has character it is almost as if it lets you take it where you want to go. I know the wobble will come and all that it just has something.

    Sorry for the rant but thought if you ever went looking for a test drive. If I remember correctly years ago you were moving to Florida or investigating a move. Still in the Metro area or is the South your new home?
  • nescosmonescosmo Member Posts: 453
    I agree; Our life has been ruin I will never drive anything but a Jeep. In 1955 my father use to buy left over ww2 trucks and he use to drive a Jeep 4x4 and my brother use to put the front wheel drive on. That was to me so great that I use to said I will drive a jeep like my father. So here I am like all of us -JEEP FEVER-. :D:D:D:D
  • tired_old_davetired_old_dave Member Posts: 710
    Nice story. So it happened to you as a youngster. How lucky.
  • thstrangerthstranger Member Posts: 60
    THANKS GUY'S FOR ALL OF YOUR HELPFUL REPLY'S....I GOT THE JOB DONE !!!! :P
  • fbedrafbedra Member Posts: 1
    My clutch went out and I can not seem to find anyone who has only the clutch. 2006 Liberty 3.7 any chance anyone knows if its possible to find just a clutch. I really do not want to pay to have everything replaced because the clutch went out.

    Frank
  • nicku812nicku812 Member Posts: 13
    This might sound crazy but ever try the dealership to see what the price is. Also if you got a buddy at a repair shop he maybe able to order it from Chrysler and get you the wholesale price. Its a few dollars off but they should have the part and save you a few $$$
  • CRD_BullydogCRD_Bullydog Member Posts: 19
    Hey, there is a good source online for Jeep Parts: http://www.chryslerpartscenter.com

    Try it you will like them, they also have a parts advisor you can call toll free for breakdown information. Parts are checked by your VIN number to assure they fit.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Today I performed some maintenance on my CRD and made some interesting discoveries
    1. Since I have started using Lubro Moly Super Diesel Additiv, my CRD has been running significantly better, with less noise, no smoke (much less) and increased FE (about 1 to 1.5 mpg).
    2. I cleaned the boost pressure sensor, which I do every 5000 miles and there was significantly less soot on it than before starting the aforementioned additive.
    3. The fuel filter, which has been in place since May 2008 was not particularly dirty. Instead of the filter element being black or dark brown, it was light gray in color.
  • firemedic44firemedic44 Member Posts: 5
    Well, the 05 has been running great but, I'm on my 4th EGR valve. I also had the throttle body valve replaced( or whatever the proper term is ). I'm at 55K and the warranty runs out at 70K. I have stayed away from fuel additives that may void the warranty. What seemes to work the best??
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    I have nearly 54K miles on my 2005 CRD. I had the original EGR valve replaced at 14K miles and have had no trouble with it since then.

    Have you been "blowing the nose" of the EGR valve at least weekly to get rid of the carbon build up?

    Does your CRD see any highway driving?

    Does the tech who services your CRD clean out all of the passages to and from the EGR valve?

    Have you been cleaning the boost sensor in the intake manifold at least every 5000 miles?

    Additives are not the issue here. It is driving style and maintenance. I use A LiquiMoly fuel additive as well as an additive from RedLine to keep everything running up to snuff.

    Every so often, you need to flog this diesel to get rid of the carbon build up, otherwise you will be looking for problems. Several other owners of this vehicle do the same and the tech at the dealer I use says it is helpful. Domestic diesel fuel basically sucks and borders on being swill.
  • firemedic44firemedic44 Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for the reply Winter.

    My daughter takes it to collage about a 3-4 hour ride. I will have her clean it out on the highway.

    I'm not sure about the Tech cleaning the passages. If Jeep has it in the directions for replacing the EGR valve then he does, if not, then I don't know.

    The boost sensor have never been cleaned. Maybe the Tech has. He has mentioned that the pencil valves has a plastic coating that most spray cleaners will damage.

    You mention driving habits. We have babied the CRD since most post here say if you keep the speed around 57-60 you should get the best mileage and the RPM's should not exceed 2500.

    Did you find a manual that has these maintenance procedures? The cleaning of the boost sensor sounds easy but I'm not sure where to start,

    The additives you mentioned. You are using 2. What do they do. I'm in the Chicago area and in the winter when we have days -0 it has been a problem running. I use BP and thats the best I can do here. Would one of these help with that issue?

    Sorry for the long response.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    1. Babying your CRD is good to a point, but the engine needs to be flogged from time to time. The nose blowing consists of having a thoroughly warmed up engine. Find a quiet long straight a way. Shut off the overdrive. Put he metal to the metal (from a dead stop) and hold the gas to the floor until you reach 65 MPH. Repeat until you are not getting wads of black smoke coming out of the exhaust. Do at least twice weekly.

    2. As you live in Chicago, cold is a problem. The wire for the block heater should be attached to the oil dipstick. I usually plug in if the temp falls below 15 degrees F. Plug your CRD in. It makes a big difference.

    3. Cleaning the boost sensor is real easy. Caribou2 posted a picture or two in this forum. You will need a 4mm hex/Allen key wrench and make sure the engine is cold. The solvents that can be used are brake cleaner, Castle Shop Solv, or Power Foam from Amsoil. I clean it every 5000 miles and have nearly 55K on my CRD.

    4. As I mentioned, domestic diesel fuel is swill, it sucks. Both of the additives I use have cetane improvers which will help starting and improve fuel economy and power.
  • fred_blogsfred_blogs Member Posts: 9
    I have a 2002 Cherokee (Liberty) and I have 2 issues with it. Firstly, the engine is lumpy. What I mean by that is that it sounds as if it is running on 3 pistons, performance is OK but has seen better days. Any ideas? It has recently had a set of reconditioned injectors fitted.

    The second issue is with the air-con. I have had it re-gassed twice this week but it still doesn't work. That is not strictly true, as it works when I leave the garage but then gives up the ghost the next time I start the engine. Again, any suggestions gratefully received.
  • mdamickmdamick Member Posts: 277
    I would check the injector plugs, one might not be tight, or you got a dud.

    As to the A/C, you have a pretty good leak. Some dye should be put in to find the source. On mine, the condenser nuts were not quite tight enough and that is where mine leaked, but not as fast as yours.
  • jptech75jptech75 Member Posts: 3
    P0401 & P0229 could have been triggered by a false Mass Air Flow reading. Test the MAF first. Then verify there are no leaks in the intercooler hoses. Pay special attention to the hose on the Driver's side that attaches to the throttle body. I have seen many rupture near the frame rail. When was the last time the boost/air temp sensor was cleaned?
  • fred_blogsfred_blogs Member Posts: 9
    Thanks very much for your replies. I am taking it in to the garage on Monday as I don't have the equipment to check it. I will be cautious about what they say thanks to your posts. Fore warned is fore armed! :)
  • jr101jr101 Member Posts: 2
    Yesterday I just got my 4th egr valve in 8 months..have about 70k on it - 2006, plus I've replace all my globe plugs and I've only had the car 2 years - so somethings not right here. I've had no other problems other that this.
  • gormanpgormanp Member Posts: 9
    Try cleaning your boost pressure sensor- you can do it yourself with simple tools, or ask a mechanic. It gets clogged with soot from the diesel, and this leads to performance problems. Much cheaper than EGRs, etc.
  • wvav8torwvav8tor Member Posts: 12
    Pull the plug on the egr, I did and I have had over 20,000 miles of service free miles. I just returned from the beach where I got over 31 MPG, set the electrionc fuel indicater and did not touch it until I returned home. Also towed a Ford Model A home on a Uhaul car transport trailer from Cooksville Tn. back home to WV, Trailer and car weighed over 4400# and I still got 20.5! Jeep now has 44000 miles and the only thing done was one glow plug...guess I got a good one:-)

    Disconnect the EGR and do the EHP and many of the problem will dissappear or at least they did for me.
  • ranrover1ranrover1 Member Posts: 2
    Hi and thank you for any and all help

    Where is the location of the boost pressure sensor. I have already cleaned the map sensor which was clogged up but the vehicle still give me a code (P0299).
    I've also taken out the EGR valve and cleaned that up as well. I still get the same code. The only thing I have not done is the boost pressure sensor because I don't know the location. If you can think of anythig else please let me know. One last thing is there any way to test the electrical part of the EGR valve?
  • jptech75jptech75 Member Posts: 3
    It sounds like you may have already found it. The boost/air temp sensor is held in with an Allen headed bolt to the top of the intake manifold, halfway under the injector harness.
  • ranrover1ranrover1 Member Posts: 2
    Hi jptech75

    I read in this forum that what I cleaned was a map sensor. But if you say it's the boost pressure sensor I'll go with that. Can you please tell me what is the filter on the right side fender well small look's like a gas filter for a car.

    Again Thank you
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Hi ranover1,
    This little filter cleans the air needed to fill the pneumatic mechanism driving the variable vanes of your turbo. Vacuum is available through the turbo boost solenoid valve where the filter is attached.

    When the turbo boost solenoid valve is switched "ON", vacuum sucks the air out of the pneumatic motor/actuator that rotates the moving vanes located around the rotor of the turbo. This increases the boost/efficiency of the turbo.

    To let the vanes retract into "OFF" position (to have less efficiency) the solenoid valve lets filtered air penetrate into the actuator.

    If this filter gets obstructed, you will have slow turbo response and too much pressure. This filter is there mainly to protect your vacuum pump.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    I am going to be putting new tires on my CRD in late November. At present I am running the stock size tire, 225/75/16. My search has revealed that most tires in this size have a "D" load rating which makes them very hard riding and almost all of them offer no tread wear warranty. A local tire dealer suggested going to 235/70/16 tires. I have searched in this size and I have have found a better selection, better prices and most offer a tread wear warranty.

    Now with that in mind, will the dealer need to make adjustments in the computer for the slightly shorter tire height and do they charge for that? Will there be suspension component clearance issues? Lastly, will the factory spare tire cover fit over this tire?

    Now the speaker in the right front passenger door makes a buzzing/rattling sound when I play music, so I am assuming that the speaker has a tear. How hard is it to remove the inside door panel and replace said speaker? Directions and diagrams welcome.

    Thank you in advance.
  • jptech75jptech75 Member Posts: 3
    Caribou1 is spot on. This is the boost solenoid filter. The service manual recomends checking/replacing this filter every 30k miles. I haven't seen one plugged yet. However if it did become plugged it would effect the turbo operation. If you can blow through it it should still be serviceable.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Hi winter2,
    My Jeep came with 235/70/16 tires. The "brownish" soft cover of the spare wheel fits well around the stock tire but is a bit tight for the 225/75/16 I use now. The 225/75 is larger in diameter than the 235/70, so the fabric on the sides is not tensioned. Your cover could be tensioned on the sides and soft in the middle ;)

    The load index corresponds to what you do with the vehicle. I chose the worst case condition where you climb over rocks at full load and put the total weight of the truck on one set of wheels.

    As long as you keep the same rims, the tire clearance between the rear door (and folding license plate support on mine) is fine.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Caribou,

    Thank you for your response. will the dealer need to adjust the speedometer for the small difference in tire height?
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    I didn't do it because I cross checked the vehicle speed with my GPS. You would drive slower with a smaller tire diameter and a fixed tachometric pickup.
  • siberiasiberia Member Posts: 520
    Hi Winter2,

    Finally gave up on the crappy OEM Goodyear tires at 66,000 miles. They would have made it to 70k miles, but I didn’t want to run into an early snow storm with thin treaded tires. Went with 38 psi and a 5-tire rotation until the tread was a little over half gone, then stopped rotating the spare. Did this so I could buy new 4 tires later and still have a spare with some decent tread.

    I went with Michelin Latitude Tours – 225/75/16. The ride is a little better but truthfully I’m not sure there is much improvement beyond the improvement obtained by getting more rubber between the cord and the road. Tires are absolutely silent and transmit less road noise – once again, maybe due to the extra rubber. Cornering was much improved in the Ozarks to the point I could relax maybe a little too much.

    At 66 mph GPS the OEM tires read 65 mph on the speedometer. Mileage correction was +2%. Now the mileage correction is a tad over 1% and the speedometer is more accurate accordingly. Fuel economy is about the same – will take longer to know for sure.

    One criticism that I had with past Michelins is that they were a little delicate due to the shape of the tire and thin sidewalls. This gave those tires a supple ride but they were not at all rugged. The Latitude Tours have a little thicker side wall and the shape is better to protect the side wall. You would have to look at one to see what I am talking about. I'm not sure these tires would give you the ride improvement you are looking for. I'm also not sure these tires need the 38 psi that the OEMs needed for good wear.
  • gunnar2gunnar2 Member Posts: 11
    hello folks,
    i have read a lot of useful information in the forum. i have also read about the numerous egr valve experiences. i have the following situation. recently my check engine light came on. there was no change in behavior of the car. the dealer indicated that the egr valve and some boost pressure device needed to be changed. he turned off the check engine indicator and it has not illuminated again. my question is; can i safely operate the car until i get some behavioral change in the engine or should i spend the $600+ to replalce the egr before some kind of malfunction begins? . the vehicle is used for normal family use and not off road.
    thanks,
    jon s.
  • gormanpgormanp Member Posts: 9
    The boost pressure sensor gets all gummed up with soot, eventually affecting engine performance. Expensive to replace. Easy to clean. I found some photos of the procedure online - I clean mine every 12,500 or so.

    As for EGR - problems - I have had no EGR problems in 50,000+ miles.
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