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I trashed the original Goodyear STs at 110 miles as I have had nothing but bad luck with that brand. I have 55.5K on the replacement tires, Bridgestone Dueler H/L Alenza tires. They did quite well until about 5000 miles ago when I started to run into wet control issues. I to have done the five tire rotation every 6000 miles and tired to run them at 37 PSI. As it turned out, the Alenzas do not like alot of air and I got some accelerated wear on the crown of the tires.
I have yet to decide on a replacement. Michelin is not on my short list as they are overpriced, over-hyped and over-rated. My one experience with Michelin rubber (XZX on a Ford Fiesta) in the late seventies/early eighties was mixed. On dry pavement they very good, but add water and life became interesting. I had driven other brands of radial tires prior to the Michelins and never ran into the wet control problems I had with them. From all I have read, Michelin has a tendency to slide under most wet conditions after they are about one-third worn.
My short list includes Pirelli, Yokohama and Toyo. I have had experiences with the first two brands except that Pirelli has a short tread life, but the handling in most every condition is fantastic. Yokohama HT/S is very nice, except with snow in any amount. I have read good things about the Toyo Open Country AT tires and those people I have spoken to who have them on their vehicles are quite pleased with them. I will make my decision by mid-December as to what my purchase will be.
I love my 2006 Jeep Liberty CRD and with the exception of the recalls and the EGR valves, it has not given me a lick of trouble and now have 103k on the clock!.
I use a Segr and block the egr and never had any more problem, also you have to clean the map sensor every 10K to be on the safe.
You have to educate on the CRD and what others have done. Go back on this forum and you will find alot of info. and you will be among the guys that love their Jeep with no essue
informed me the oilpan drain plug hole was "stripped" (more like crossthreaded
or overtorqued, but who knows...) and the plug couldn't be
tightened enough to seal. My options were to replace the oil pan at an
outrageous price as you have to pull the engine to do the job or get an
expansion type. Hmm let me think, $10 plug vs 2000 engine pullout. Let's
try the plug. Worked great until my last oil change where the tech reused the
old plug which almost ended in disaster when it came loose. I caught it before
I lost all my oil. Any ideas besides a big $$$ oil pan replacement?
Ended up getting Toyo AT (2ply sidewall load range D) at Screamin Lizard for the H3. (The original H3 tires, Bridgestone RH-S rated poorly at Tirerack were load range C but 3ply sidewall.) Ride is softer, handling crisper, and less strain on the front but de minimus sidewall flex? exists (not an issue though). The feel just might be the lack of that strong 3ply sidewall for the last three years. Toyo said to keep recommended tire pressure of 35. Never have done that and won't start now. Does Toyo still allow a 60 day return policy?
Toyo made in China, didn't want to do that but if the tariff is added to the prices, then more options (higher prices) will be considered in the future.
Good luck.
more research, the "shadetree" method of epoxying the threads of the
aftermarket oil drain valve sounds good for probably a $25 investment. Plan
"B" is probably an 18/1.5mm TimeSert repair kit & 18mm drain valve at around
$250. This sounded like the hot set up that several people came up with at
another forum. The kit has a drill, tap, tap guide and thread insert tool and inserts.
Kind of expensive for a tool I'll use once and probably never use again...
BTW, the original thread in the pan is neither metric or SAE, it's apparently
some @^&$# oddball British Whitworth or something. anyway, opinions, ideas?
I have taken Toyo of off my short list of tires. I am looking at Avon Tyres as well as a private brand made by Cooper.
I used Avon Tyres on two vehicles some many years ago and I found them to be quite good in wet or dry conditions and adequate in snow. They were "H" rated and the concept of "all season" had yet to appear, so I had snow tires in both cases.
The private brand from Cooper, American Prospector SUV, has a fairly aggressive tread pattern and is about $95.00. The Avons, from Tire Rack are $94 (including shipping) and are marked as a closeout on the Tire Rack website. I will need to investigate this further.
The engine is made by VM in Italy so I do not expect it to be anything but metric. Maybe an odd metric size but metric for sure. If it is BS/Whitworth, I'm all set as I restore old British bikes so I'm ready for any thread size!!!
Curious why Toyo was dropped. Usually buy from Discount tire and get road forced balancing. Bought toyo spectrum from another chain before trading in malibu. The middle wore out real fast and store apologized for the lousy spectrums. Down to Cooper and Toyo and went with Toyo based on trust from Sean at the 'Lizard.
Bought a used '68 R69S/US BMW about '70 that had bald Pirelli's that chunked rubber. Took a long fast highway trip before replacing and when the tire was pulled, we found dozens of pieces of metal parts in the tread that never punctured the tube. Believe replaced those with Avon Tyres. Don't think I ever had a problem with them. Total knowledge of Avon Tyres.
"Fairly agreesive pattern" Procomp has buy three get one free. Like wet traction and sipes, but the wrangler's bfg mudders have no sipes. Will probably stick to mudders for the rubicon and I believe Toyo MT has at least one sipe per block. Went AT with better_half's H3 because it's her daily driver and a keeper. The wrangler is our interstate cruiser and fun vehicle for now. Good luck and keep us all informed. Like Red Green-"I'm pulling for you, We're all in this together".
Dave
i've seen a lot of good info on this forum. i have a question that i'm sure has been asked since there are frequent posts on obd2 codes. i recently bought a reader and would like to know where i can access a list of jeep liberty/diesel manufacturer specific codes. when i do searches i've seen them for wranglers in austrailia, etc. but not for liberty diesels.
thanks for you continued interesting discussions.
gunnar2
Have a look here:
http://richard.fortin.free.fr/Jeepforfun/2005-KJ-Powertrain-Diesel.pdf
Most codes should be common to newer trucks.
What are you looking for? I collected a lot of information since 2003 and it was as useful as a life insurance: someone must die to recuperate the principal :sick:
Hoping I'm posting this in the right place. I'm looking at buying a Liberty CRD with 70K miles. It's well maintained, with one owner, and has been checked by my mechanic. But have no sense of how reliable this model is. Can I count on it to run for another 70K? Am I going to have to be doing expensive fixes, regularly, as I approach 100K? If you have one, or have an opinion, please weigh in!
I replaced them with Michelin LTX and have had excellent service from them. They get rotated (4 way) every 7k and now have about 65k on them with even wear. I will replace them in the spring but they appear good for the winter.
I'd buy another one without hesitation.
With a little training from my local dealer, plus good information found on this blog, I have learned how to properly maintain my CRD.
I have 56K miles on my CRD and love it. Would I buy another? In a heartbeat!
My experience with Michelin rubber has been less than satisfactory, especially under wet conditions. Plus, they are outrageous expensive when compared to other tires I am considering or I have considered.
I perform a five tire rotation (including the spare) which adds another 20% of life to the tires every 6000 miles.
I will be purchasing new tires by early December and will let all know what I have purcahsed and my motivation(s) for purchasing what I did.
Everyone's input has been helpful.
After the EGR defeated it has been OK.
Cleaning the boost/IAT sensor keeps the trouble codes at bay.
Still have the original fan and timing belts. Getting 23-25 mpg consistently.
To some of you this will sound like a really stupid question. I have an 02 Cherokee (UK liberty) 2.5 diesel with 74k miles on it. When does the timing belt need changing? I've been told 75k miles and also 90k miles.
Also, does anybody know of a good manual? I could get a haines one but was hoping someone could point me to an online one.
Thanks
Turns out that you cannot use just any speaker. The speaker in the driver's side front door has an amplifier built into it and trying to use an aftermarket speaker(s) could be problematic.
thanks
dusty
thanks
dusty
http://www.meyerproducts.com/ezmatch.aspx?em=8
I have been looking online and it appears to be a generic code everyone uses that indicates that there has been a loss of communication with the HVAC module.
Any input appreciated.
Is the passage from the engine to the EGR clogged? What about the little filter that is on the passenger side of the engine that helps with or has something to do with the VGT control? Have you ever replaced that? Could the CAC be full of trash? Have you checked the boost sensor in spite of cleaning it to make sure it is sending back the correct information? The CCV device, is it clogged or not working?
Is the engine controller software up to date?
As to additives, I like the stuff from RedLine and also from LiquiMoly. LiquiMoly has an item called Diesel Purge (Diesel-Spülung) which is suppose to clean out the combustion chamber and other items.
I would expect when the dealer checked the system they updated the codes but I will check it. I will have to ask however I take my Liberty to a dealer who is no longer affliated with Chrysler. Be that as it may when this problem kept recurring my dealer took it to a local Jeep dealer because we thought we had a bad EGR which should have not failed. Although I don't know what they did they did not replace the EGR but said it was coked up.
Where do I get the Diesel Purge. I think I can get Red Line from the truck stop.
CAC: another name for the intercooler
CCV: if you remove the shroud from the engine, you will find a round black plastic device sitting in the valve cover with a a hose attached to it. As I understand it, this device has something to do with removing blowby gases from the crankcase.
To obtain Redline additives, go to their website and look up the nearest reseller by zip code. For the Diesel Purge, go to the LuqiMolly website and contact the North American representative. I was fortunate to find their products at a local NAPA store.
As to being "coked" up or "carboned" up, the tech at my dealer has told me what to do the keep the carbon levels down in the engine and that includes regular "nose blowing". Unfortunately, domestic diesel fuel sucks and is of very poor quality except for the stuff you find in California. The addition of cetane improvers is helpful in reducing smoke/carbon formation.
Where are you with your diagnostic now?
The first thing I would do about a boost pressure error is to provocate it. Check the movement of the vanes of your turbo and make sure there is no pneumatic or mechanical issue with the mechanism that moves these vanes. The little plastic filter located behind the air filter box could play a trick on you
Are the vanes kept away from the rotor by default? I don't have this type of turbo so I can't tell what happens if the control solenoid valve does not distribute vacuum or if there is no vacuum available to move the vanes.
The boost pressure sensor could be checked by measuring the output voltage variation when you move the vanes manually (by jumping the control solenoid valve) at a steady engine speed ~1500rpm. There isn't much risk when the engine isn't under load. You will also feel the intake air hose get stiffer as you do this test. Do you feel a loss of power when you get the error code on the console?
What type of oil do you use? I only had a dirty boost sensor once when I used semi synthetic 15w40 Rotella.
Last thing that comes to my mind: open, observe and re insert your connectors. I cleaned the engine compartment with lots of water this summer and now I'm getting better mileage :sick:
Thanks for the info on Redline and Lugimolly. I will try their websites.
I use 0W40 Mobil Synthetic as called for by the engine manufacturer. I was told when I bouught the unit it was the only oil I could use and not void the engine warranty. That said my dealer allows me to purchase the oil and filter and then he changes it. It's done every 3000 miles religiously.
I will check and reinsert the connectors as you indicate.
I have not used the Diesel Purge only the Super Diesel Additiv. It has proven itself very effective. I have had less soot on the boost pressure sensor, less knocking and much easier starting in cold/cool weather. Also, there has been less smoke from the tailpipe too.
One other question has come to mind. Is the catalytic converter clogged, even partially?
Can you precisely describe at what speed, engine load, road profile and into which gear the truck is when you say it slightly 'balks'?
Does this happen after a stable cruise, after a slight deceleration or during a normal acceleration at the very beginning or after a few seconds?
Has your engine reached normal running temperature when this happens?
Thanks to Caribou1 you have very easy access to a manual if you will go to his message #10586 and click on address he provided . Pages131 132 133 on code # P0401 as a starter .
I re-read your initial entry and saw that you are using Mobil 1 0W-40. I think that using something different would be advisable. The dealer I use has gone away from using the 0W-40 as there have been several CRD owners who are having oil consumption issues as well as carbon accumulation issues. Once these owners moved to a different oils, both problems were significantly reduced.
Some CRD owners are using Shell Rotella 5W-40, while others are using Amsoil products. I am using Red Line 5W-40.
I really do not know what to recommend to you.
That said thanks for all your andd Carabou1's support. Yesterday I removed the EGR lines. It was actually easier that I thought. Getting them back one was another story but I got it done. While a little sooty they as well as the CAC lines where not obstructed so the ngine was not coked as they dealer said.
I also changed the Crankcase vent valve and the Vacuum sensor filter as discussed. While working I removed the Electronic throttle control to clean the inlet throat (makeup air) of the EGR line coming to the throttle contol. I found there was missing o-ring seal missing between the air intact elbow and the control. I also noticed crud build up on the engine mount which seemed strange. I obtained a new seal and installed. That may have been giving me the insufficent air flow (401) codes I was getting since it was leaking. The dealer however will not admit it even though I took pictures. I test drove the vehicle and it was shocking the power I got. I am continiung to monitoring now to see what comes. Again thanks.