Jeep Liberty Diesel

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Comments

  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Hello Siberia,

    I trashed the original Goodyear STs at 110 miles as I have had nothing but bad luck with that brand. I have 55.5K on the replacement tires, Bridgestone Dueler H/L Alenza tires. They did quite well until about 5000 miles ago when I started to run into wet control issues. I to have done the five tire rotation every 6000 miles and tired to run them at 37 PSI. As it turned out, the Alenzas do not like alot of air and I got some accelerated wear on the crown of the tires.

    I have yet to decide on a replacement. Michelin is not on my short list as they are overpriced, over-hyped and over-rated. My one experience with Michelin rubber (XZX on a Ford Fiesta) in the late seventies/early eighties was mixed. On dry pavement they very good, but add water and life became interesting. I had driven other brands of radial tires prior to the Michelins and never ran into the wet control problems I had with them. From all I have read, Michelin has a tendency to slide under most wet conditions after they are about one-third worn.

    My short list includes Pirelli, Yokohama and Toyo. I have had experiences with the first two brands except that Pirelli has a short tread life, but the handling in most every condition is fantastic. Yokohama HT/S is very nice, except with snow in any amount. I have read good things about the Toyo Open Country AT tires and those people I have spoken to who have them on their vehicles are quite pleased with them. I will make my decision by mid-December as to what my purchase will be.
  • diesel_farmerdiesel_farmer Member Posts: 32
    I got 53k out of the OEM Goodyear tires, then put a set of Goodyear FORTERA TRIPLETRED Tire - P245/70R16 106T VSB. Living in NW Pennsylvania, these tires have experienced a lot of harsh driving conditions and with 50k miles on this set, they are still doing fine. I opted for a wider tire to give a little extra stability to the chariot.

    I love my 2006 Jeep Liberty CRD and with the exception of the recalls and the EGR valves, it has not given me a lick of trouble and now have 103k on the clock!.
    ;)
  • pharvey329pharvey329 Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I am new to this forum. I have had it with egr valve problems. How did you bypass yours and where did you get the code reader from? Also what is the elephant nose bypass all about? I love my liberty but would like these problems to go away. I think if I can get rid of the egr they would.
  • nescosmonescosmo Member Posts: 453
    Go to lost forum.
    I use a Segr and block the egr and never had any more problem, also you have to clean the map sensor every 10K to be on the safe.
    You have to educate on the CRD and what others have done. Go back on this forum and you will find alot of info. and you will be among the guys that love their Jeep with no essue
  • jkievit240jkievit240 Member Posts: 6
    I have a 2005 Liberty CRD. On a previous oil change, my service advisor
    informed me the oilpan drain plug hole was "stripped" (more like crossthreaded
    or overtorqued, but who knows...) and the plug couldn't be
    tightened enough to seal. My options were to replace the oil pan at an
    outrageous price as you have to pull the engine to do the job or get an
    expansion type. Hmm let me think, $10 plug vs 2000 engine pullout. Let's
    try the plug. Worked great until my last oil change where the tech reused the
    old plug which almost ended in disaster when it came loose. I caught it before
    I lost all my oil. Any ideas besides a big $$$ oil pan replacement? :cry:
  • CRD_BullydogCRD_Bullydog Member Posts: 19
    You can get a FOMOTO Oil Plug Valve, F103 and using a bit of JB Weld Engine Block Epoxy on the threads, screw it in the stripped thread hole and let it harden. You will then have a permanent drain valve that never needs to be removed.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Could you post a picture showing access to your oil pan? Mine is easily accessible from underneath and there is enough metal to repair the thread.
  • tired_old_davetired_old_dave Member Posts: 710
    A lot of us are always looking for the best tire. I think recently one of the cheap subscription off road magazines (free? after using 20% harbor freight coupons) said that and there have been tire comparisons. Like you, I have never had a good goodyear or michelin. (Noticed though that at the "Rack that the AT2's replaced Firestone as No 1.) Put Yokohama geolanders on a ford conversion van when they came out - removed the famous LTX MS. Won't consider those again either. Good things on the net about Cooper - accidently found a site for snow removal pickup trucks - they liked Cooper AT. Darby W. a good while backed I believe mentioned the SST's and then I believe they were replaced. Best Pirelli ever had was the P77 unidirectional (Hard riding but never gave up). Loved Comp TA on the Previa short lived but that high speed sport car handling was great.

    Ended up getting Toyo AT (2ply sidewall load range D) at Screamin Lizard for the H3. (The original H3 tires, Bridgestone RH-S rated poorly at Tirerack were load range C but 3ply sidewall.) Ride is softer, handling crisper, and less strain on the front but de minimus sidewall flex? exists (not an issue though). The feel just might be the lack of that strong 3ply sidewall for the last three years. Toyo said to keep recommended tire pressure of 35. Never have done that and won't start now. Does Toyo still allow a 60 day return policy?

    Toyo made in China, didn't want to do that but if the tariff is added to the prices, then more options (higher prices) will be considered in the future.

    Good luck.
  • jkievit240jkievit240 Member Posts: 6
    Actually, that part is easy. The location is very accessible. After doing some
    more research, the "shadetree" method of epoxying the threads of the
    aftermarket oil drain valve sounds good for probably a $25 investment. Plan
    "B" is probably an 18/1.5mm TimeSert repair kit & 18mm drain valve at around
    $250. This sounded like the hot set up that several people came up with at
    another forum. The kit has a drill, tap, tap guide and thread insert tool and inserts.
    Kind of expensive for a tool I'll use once and probably never use again...
    BTW, the original thread in the pan is neither metric or SAE, it's apparently
    some @^&$# oddball British Whitworth or something. anyway, opinions, ideas?
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Dave,

    I have taken Toyo of off my short list of tires. I am looking at Avon Tyres as well as a private brand made by Cooper.

    I used Avon Tyres on two vehicles some many years ago and I found them to be quite good in wet or dry conditions and adequate in snow. They were "H" rated and the concept of "all season" had yet to appear, so I had snow tires in both cases.

    The private brand from Cooper, American Prospector SUV, has a fairly aggressive tread pattern and is about $95.00. The Avons, from Tire Rack are $94 (including shipping) and are marked as a closeout on the Tire Rack website. I will need to investigate this further.
  • desmo750ssdesmo750ss Member Posts: 17
    Well, me too. I recently changed the oil and the threads gave out. Apparently the pan is made out of soft aluminum. as when I tightened it at about the right torque, I felt it give way. This weekend I will measure the threads and then custom make a tap that is 1 or 2 mm wider and have my machine shop buddy make me a new plug (if it is not available for another brand) The tap is about $150 plus the plug. I'll keep you informed.
    The engine is made by VM in Italy so I do not expect it to be anything but metric. Maybe an odd metric size but metric for sure. If it is BS/Whitworth, I'm all set as I restore old British bikes so I'm ready for any thread size!!!
  • tired_old_davetired_old_dave Member Posts: 710
    Winter,

    Curious why Toyo was dropped. Usually buy from Discount tire and get road forced balancing. Bought toyo spectrum from another chain before trading in malibu. The middle wore out real fast and store apologized for the lousy spectrums. Down to Cooper and Toyo and went with Toyo based on trust from Sean at the 'Lizard.

    Bought a used '68 R69S/US BMW about '70 that had bald Pirelli's that chunked rubber. Took a long fast highway trip before replacing and when the tire was pulled, we found dozens of pieces of metal parts in the tread that never punctured the tube. Believe replaced those with Avon Tyres. Don't think I ever had a problem with them. Total knowledge of Avon Tyres.

    "Fairly agreesive pattern" Procomp has buy three get one free. Like wet traction and sipes, but the wrangler's bfg mudders have no sipes. Will probably stick to mudders for the rubicon and I believe Toyo MT has at least one sipe per block. Went AT with better_half's H3 because it's her daily driver and a keeper. The wrangler is our interstate cruiser and fun vehicle for now. Good luck and keep us all informed. Like Red Green-"I'm pulling for you, We're all in this together".

    Dave
  • isxisx Member Posts: 7
    Hi everyone, just joined the forum. I have a 2005 liberty CRD. I have not had any problems with my liberty it is great. No EGRs, no sensor problems. Only just the ball joint and torque converter recalls. I just bought a complete engine tool kit for the CRD off ebay. Thought I would let anyone know in N. Colorado if they want to do any work to their liberty I would let them borrow a tool or two. I could provide some help or do the work for you. I am a ASE master diesel mechanic. I am not trying to make a ton of money just trying to help out my fellow diesel lovers.
  • gunnar2gunnar2 Member Posts: 11
    hello folks,
    i've seen a lot of good info on this forum. i have a question that i'm sure has been asked since there are frequent posts on obd2 codes. i recently bought a reader and would like to know where i can access a list of jeep liberty/diesel manufacturer specific codes. when i do searches i've seen them for wranglers in austrailia, etc. but not for liberty diesels.
    thanks for you continued interesting discussions.
    gunnar2
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Hi gunnar2,
    Have a look here:
    http://richard.fortin.free.fr/Jeepforfun/2005-KJ-Powertrain-Diesel.pdf
    Most codes should be common to newer trucks.

    What are you looking for? I collected a lot of information since 2003 and it was as useful as a life insurance: someone must die to recuperate the principal :sick:
  • rutabaga1973rutabaga1973 Member Posts: 3
    Hey y'all,

    Hoping I'm posting this in the right place. I'm looking at buying a Liberty CRD with 70K miles. It's well maintained, with one owner, and has been checked by my mechanic. But have no sense of how reliable this model is. Can I count on it to run for another 70K? Am I going to have to be doing expensive fixes, regularly, as I approach 100K? If you have one, or have an opinion, please weigh in!
  • vtdogvtdog Member Posts: 163
    My experience with the OEM tires led me to junk them at 12k as they were so poor in wet/snow that i believe that engineer who designed them should be flogged.
    I replaced them with Michelin LTX and have had excellent service from them. They get rotated (4 way) every 7k and now have about 65k on them with even wear. I will replace them in the spring but they appear good for the winter.
  • pttrilliumpttrillium Member Posts: 62
    I have a 2005 with 64000 miles on it. Other than some recall stuff early on and two EGR valves replace under warranty there have been no issues since 28000 miles. Basically the bugs got worked out pretty completely and its been smooth sailing.

    I'd buy another one without hesitation.

    :)
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    I own a 2005 CRD, purchased new. Except for recalls, one EGR valve, a timing belt pulley, and a torque converter, I am very happy with my CRD.

    With a little training from my local dealer, plus good information found on this blog, I have learned how to properly maintain my CRD.

    I have 56K miles on my CRD and love it. Would I buy another? In a heartbeat!
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Vtdog,

    My experience with Michelin rubber has been less than satisfactory, especially under wet conditions. Plus, they are outrageous expensive when compared to other tires I am considering or I have considered.

    I perform a five tire rotation (including the spare) which adds another 20% of life to the tires every 6000 miles.

    I will be purchasing new tires by early December and will let all know what I have purcahsed and my motivation(s) for purchasing what I did.

    Everyone's input has been helpful.
  • mdamickmdamick Member Posts: 277
    I am up to 159300 mi on my 2005.
    After the EGR defeated it has been OK.
    Cleaning the boost/IAT sensor keeps the trouble codes at bay.
    Still have the original fan and timing belts. Getting 23-25 mpg consistently.
  • fred_blogsfred_blogs Member Posts: 9
    Morning all,

    To some of you this will sound like a really stupid question. I have an 02 Cherokee (UK liberty) 2.5 diesel with 74k miles on it. When does the timing belt need changing? I've been told 75k miles and also 90k miles.

    Also, does anybody know of a good manual? I could get a haines one but was hoping someone could point me to an online one.

    Thanks
  • mike6206mike6206 Member Posts: 35
    I have an '06 and from the Owner's Manual and Maintenance Schedule books, they tell me to change it at 100,000 miles(161,000 K.) Although the post above yours has the guy stating that he hasn't touched his and it's over the 100,000 miles.
  • mike6206mike6206 Member Posts: 35
    '06 with 68000 and no problems! Oil changed at every 10,000 miles. Will be keeping this one for a while... :shades:
  • mike6206mike6206 Member Posts: 35
    I see everyone has answered the tire question but not the speaker question. Ask the mechanic at your local dealer or a body shop guy and see. If it's not to hard and the speaker is shot, then it's a good time to upgrade to those ones that you find at Best Buy or just price a direct replacement from Jeep.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Thanks for you input. I had the speaker repaired by the dealer under an extended warranty.

    Turns out that you cannot use just any speaker. The speaker in the driver's side front door has an amplifier built into it and trying to use an aftermarket speaker(s) could be problematic.
  • wvav8torwvav8tor Member Posts: 12
    Is there anyone that makes a snow plow for the Liberty diesel? From what I read the plow for the gas Liberty will not fit.

    thanks
    dusty
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    I did a little snooping and there is, as far as I can see, there is no plow kit for the CRD
  • wvav8torwvav8tor Member Posts: 12
    Thanks, I have done a lot of snooping and it seems that any of the Liberty plows will mount up but there is a weight concern because of the already heavy diesel engine. A plow I guess would exceed the recommened weight for safe road operation. Can anyone confirm this?

    thanks
    dusty
  • mike6206mike6206 Member Posts: 35
    As for finding a plow kit for your liberty, try this from Meyer:

    http://www.meyerproducts.com/ezmatch.aspx?em=8
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    While driving home today, the engine light came on. No drivability issue noted. Once I got home, I did the ignition key trick and the code "U 0164" appeared in the odometer space and the the word "done" came up.

    I have been looking online and it appears to be a generic code everyone uses that indicates that there has been a loss of communication with the HVAC module.

    Any input appreciated.
  • axelf66axelf66 Member Posts: 17
    I have a 2006 Jeep Liberty Diesel. Love the car if I could get the EGR issues resolved. I am getting a constant P0401 Code. I have changed the MAF Sensor and Cleaned the Boost Pressure Sensor. I am still getting intermittant P0101 and P0299 Codes. Hell I purchased a code checker just to turn the damn chk eng lite off. I changed the EGR about 7000 miles back. I read the blog and I have snorted the engine. Got some black smoke out but not that much. To keep the RPM up and blowing I have been driving the car in OD in town. When I cleaned the Boost pressor Sensor it was really dirty. Thought maybe that was it but got an Overboost (0299) code just after I cleaned it. Still the light comes on. I was told by the Jeep dealer that the engine was coked (plugged up) but I really find that hard to believe. Diesels run dirty but it takes a lotta miles and lots of idling to coke one up. The dealer is not up to snuff on Diesels and I think he is blowing smoke. Wants to charge me $600 bucks to clean up the engine because my extend warranty does not cover cleaning. Is there any type of cleaner I can run through the engine to clean up, something that removes carbon etc. Oh also changed the Air Filter to a K&N and thats when I got the over boost. Changed back but am still getting the code. I am at wits end with this thing. FYI all I am getting over 30+ miles per gallon--close to 35 on the road so I think I got a good one if I could just fix the EGR problem. Any thoughts, suggestions would help. Caribou1 it sounds like you are well versed. Can you help. Just FYI I am mechanically inclined, understand somewhat diesels and was an aircraft mechanic in my military days so you can get technical. Thanks man.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    I spoke with the dealer and I will be visiting them on Monday after work. The code cleared itself this afternoon.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Interesting issues. I have been running a K&N filter since about 14K miles without a problem. I had the EGR replaced once at about 17K miles and now have over 56K miles.

    Is the passage from the engine to the EGR clogged? What about the little filter that is on the passenger side of the engine that helps with or has something to do with the VGT control? Have you ever replaced that? Could the CAC be full of trash? Have you checked the boost sensor in spite of cleaning it to make sure it is sending back the correct information? The CCV device, is it clogged or not working?

    Is the engine controller software up to date?

    As to additives, I like the stuff from RedLine and also from LiquiMoly. LiquiMoly has an item called Diesel Purge (Diesel-Spülung) which is suppose to clean out the combustion chamber and other items.
  • axelf66axelf66 Member Posts: 17
    Winter, thanks for your reply. I am not to good with acronyms so please enlighten me regarding VGT, CAC and CCV. I have not pulled anything apart yet but would have thought the mechanic would have cleaned the the EGR ports when they replaced it last time. I did not check the boost sensor voltages if thats what you mean. I just cleaned it since it was so dirty.

    I would expect when the dealer checked the system they updated the codes but I will check it. I will have to ask however I take my Liberty to a dealer who is no longer affliated with Chrysler. Be that as it may when this problem kept recurring my dealer took it to a local Jeep dealer because we thought we had a bad EGR which should have not failed. Although I don't know what they did they did not replace the EGR but said it was coked up.

    Where do I get the Diesel Purge. I think I can get Red Line from the truck stop.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    VGT: Variable Geometry Turbocharger
    CAC: another name for the intercooler
    CCV: if you remove the shroud from the engine, you will find a round black plastic device sitting in the valve cover with a a hose attached to it. As I understand it, this device has something to do with removing blowby gases from the crankcase.

    To obtain Redline additives, go to their website and look up the nearest reseller by zip code. For the Diesel Purge, go to the LuqiMolly website and contact the North American representative. I was fortunate to find their products at a local NAPA store.

    As to being "coked" up or "carboned" up, the tech at my dealer has told me what to do the keep the carbon levels down in the engine and that includes regular "nose blowing". Unfortunately, domestic diesel fuel sucks and is of very poor quality except for the stuff you find in California. The addition of cetane improvers is helpful in reducing smoke/carbon formation.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Hi axelf66,
    Where are you with your diagnostic now?
    The first thing I would do about a boost pressure error is to provocate it. Check the movement of the vanes of your turbo and make sure there is no pneumatic or mechanical issue with the mechanism that moves these vanes. The little plastic filter located behind the air filter box could play a trick on you :)

    Are the vanes kept away from the rotor by default? I don't have this type of turbo so I can't tell what happens if the control solenoid valve does not distribute vacuum or if there is no vacuum available to move the vanes.

    The boost pressure sensor could be checked by measuring the output voltage variation when you move the vanes manually (by jumping the control solenoid valve) at a steady engine speed ~1500rpm. There isn't much risk when the engine isn't under load. You will also feel the intake air hose get stiffer as you do this test. Do you feel a loss of power when you get the error code on the console?

    What type of oil do you use? I only had a dirty boost sensor once when I used semi synthetic 15w40 Rotella.

    Last thing that comes to my mind: open, observe and re insert your connectors. I cleaned the engine compartment with lots of water this summer and now I'm getting better mileage :sick:
  • axelf66axelf66 Member Posts: 17
    Winter, thanks for the info. I figured out the CAC and CVT by doing some checking. I find it hard to believe a 3in tube is coked. It could be the smaller tube coming from the EGR to manifold. At any rate I am going to clean everything tomorrow. I plan to change the boost pressure sensor since it was so coked when I cleaned it it may not have been working properly. That said I have to wait until Monday to order since it is a dealer only part at this point. The only way to get the smaller EGR line out is to remove the skd plate and crawl under the car. Trouble is everything I have illiustrating it doesn't show this line so I have to play it by ear. I am going to try and do it without removing the EGR. Hopefully the dealer has already cleaned it and the air control valve. The CCV sound like it is similar to a PCV. I will look at it as well.

    Thanks for the info on Redline and Lugimolly. I will try their websites.
  • axelf66axelf66 Member Posts: 17
    Caribou1: The turbo seems to work well. I have lots of power although I get a slight hestitation when I accelerate if I don't put contineous pressure on the throttle. It will sometimes, not all the time, balk a little. This turbo lag as I call it may come because of the so called coking but until I clean everything I can't be sure. I am going to work it tomorrow, clean all the CVC lines, the EGR valve and Air Control Valve ports and the EGR line that goes to the exhaust manifold. The little filter you and Winter discuss that is located I believe on what looks like the Vacuum Control something or another and was changed once about 45K so I am going to change it again. No one seems to have it either or know what it is so I contacted the dealer Friday and asked about that and the boost pressure sensor. I think this could alleviate some of the issues with insufficent EGR air flow (P0401) code and stop the underboost P0299 code I get. The filter cost $10 bucks and sensor $65 bucks but is much cheaper than an EGR. My warranty company has already replaced 3 EGR's including the original and is a little leary of replacing it again. They flatly told me that things that got carboned up, live engine valves, were not a covered espense and they would not pay to clean them. Guess they would rather replace them.

    I use 0W40 Mobil Synthetic as called for by the engine manufacturer. I was told when I bouught the unit it was the only oil I could use and not void the engine warranty. That said my dealer allows me to purchase the oil and filter and then he changes it. It's done every 3000 miles religiously.

    I will check and reinsert the connectors as you indicate.
  • axelf66axelf66 Member Posts: 17
    edited August 2011
    Winter: I checked out the Redline and the fuel catalyst is avaliable at my local Pepboys. In that regard I also looked into the Lubro Molly Diesel Purge. That is some strong ****. Does the manuafacturer reccomend this stuff. According the to specs a can full will totally recondintion your ride. Please let me know how this stuff affected your motor. I am simply looking for a good cleaner to remove carbon.
  • emp2emp2 Member Posts: 20
    axelf66:If you do not have a repair manual I suggest you go to message #10586 by caribou1 . A lot of your code problems could be fixed with some easy inexpensive solutions according to the manual such as a" plugged crank case vent" . The codes in this manual are differant in that it does not list code p0401 but has two p0402 code#s but you will see when you look on page 131 what I mean . With the mpg your getting your motor would seem to be already running at peak performance .By the manual code0299 could possibly be fixed by correcting p0401 first . Good Luck
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    The correct spelling is Liquimolly. Sorry about the typo. Best of luck and keep me informed. I will try to help as I can.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Axel,

    I have not used the Diesel Purge only the Super Diesel Additiv. It has proven itself very effective. I have had less soot on the boost pressure sensor, less knocking and much easier starting in cold/cool weather. Also, there has been less smoke from the tailpipe too.

    One other question has come to mind. Is the catalytic converter clogged, even partially?
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Axel,
    Can you precisely describe at what speed, engine load, road profile and into which gear the truck is when you say it slightly 'balks'?
    Does this happen after a stable cruise, after a slight deceleration or during a normal acceleration at the very beginning or after a few seconds?
    Has your engine reached normal running temperature when this happens?
  • axelf66axelf66 Member Posts: 17
    Winter missed the part about the catalytic convertor. Possible but no code. Was a question I asked the dealer. I need to track the codes before I erase them.
  • emp2emp2 Member Posts: 20
    The p0401 and p0101 codes can be recieved if you have a bad catalytic converter or any other restrictions in your exhaust system . Also you need to clear your codes to properly work on correcting your problems as per the manual .
    Thanks to Caribou1 you have very easy access to a manual if you will go to his message #10586 and click on address he provided . Pages131 132 133 on code # P0401 as a starter .
  • axelf66axelf66 Member Posts: 17
    Thanks. I do have a service and parts manual that I orderd on Ebay and the one from Caribou1 is similar. I have been driving the vehicle for the last couple days and resetting the light after reading the code. My plan is to change the Boost Vacuum Sensor Filter and the Crankcase Pressure Control Valve. Once that is done I plan to clean the CAC lines to the EGR and make sure all lines are tight when I put them back on. I will check the vacuum lines and the gate valve operation. I also plan to clean the EGR pipe the runs to the Air Intake elbow. The pipe looks like it is two pieces with the other end hooking to the turbo and up and behind the exhaust pipe. Looks like a really mother to get out. Any suggestions here would be welcome. That said I am going to try and make a pipe cleaner with springs that are flexible and and try to scrape the inside of the pipe to loosen up the carbon and remove any possible blockage. This pipe runs behind the motor in front of the firewall. Before I clean the exhaust piping I plan to run the truck to see if I get any more codes. If not I plan to try to keep snorting the engine to keep it clean.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Axel,

    I re-read your initial entry and saw that you are using Mobil 1 0W-40. I think that using something different would be advisable. The dealer I use has gone away from using the 0W-40 as there have been several CRD owners who are having oil consumption issues as well as carbon accumulation issues. Once these owners moved to a different oils, both problems were significantly reduced.

    Some CRD owners are using Shell Rotella 5W-40, while others are using Amsoil products. I am using Red Line 5W-40.

    I really do not know what to recommend to you.
  • axelf66axelf66 Member Posts: 17
    5W-40, what does the engine manufacturer say. Interesting.

    That said thanks for all your andd Carabou1's support. Yesterday I removed the EGR lines. It was actually easier that I thought. Getting them back one was another story but I got it done. While a little sooty they as well as the CAC lines where not obstructed so the ngine was not coked as they dealer said.

    I also changed the Crankcase vent valve and the Vacuum sensor filter as discussed. While working I removed the Electronic throttle control to clean the inlet throat (makeup air) of the EGR line coming to the throttle contol. I found there was missing o-ring seal missing between the air intact elbow and the control. I also noticed crud build up on the engine mount which seemed strange. I obtained a new seal and installed. That may have been giving me the insufficent air flow (401) codes I was getting since it was leaking. The dealer however will not admit it even though I took pictures. I test drove the vehicle and it was shocking the power I got. I am continiung to monitoring now to see what comes. Again thanks.
  • axelf66axelf66 Member Posts: 17
    OK folks took it for a test drive. First drive was fine, great power and acceleration. No codes. Took it out this morning, same performance, got about 10 miles and the light comes on. Stopped and checked code. Got three codes, first was 299, second was 401 and third was 299 but it was pending. Did review and took information down. RPM 1906, Load 67.4% Air Flow 56.22 GR/Sec, Map 137 KPA, Coolant Temp 158, Air Intake Temp 109,Speed 23 MPH. I reset the light. Drove the vehicle approx 35 miles and stopped to do some shopping and for lunch. Moved the vehicle from one end of the parking lot to another turning into the parking spot the light comes on again. the car was driven highway speed and I even snorted it to blow any carbon. Got some but not a lot of black smoke and again performance was great. Car really took off. Got lots of power, shifts well. Really moves out. Got three codes again. This time it was 401, second was 299 and third was pending 401 pending. Stats were RPM 729, Load 36%, Air flow 15.33 GR/Sec, Map 92, Coolant Temp 154, Air Intake Temp 68, Speed 1 MPH. Diagnostics tell me to go to EGR valve and then exhaust system for restriction, (Catalytic Convertor). I looked at Turbo issues. When I checked the CAC I checked the turbo rotation and the gate value and they seem fine visually. I did not dignostically check them because I don't have the tools. Any thoughts on this one. My Dealer is looking into this and will be getting back to me. I would like to talk with him intelligently on this issue. Anything would be helpful.
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