Jeep Liberty Diesel

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Comments

  • mdamickmdamick Member Posts: 277
    Mine had the filter housing replaced under warranty.
    I have heard that the problem is air is sucked into the filter via the plug assemblies.
    If the dealer pulled them when they changed the filter that could have caused your problem.

    As to the F37-I put a vacuum T on the turbo control unit. This allows a little more boost off the line and I don't have power issues. In fact, if I get on the throttle at the lockup points I can cause the TC clutch to chatter.
  • crash227crash227 Member Posts: 46
    After wearing out two (2) sets of Goodyear Wrangler ST tires (factory equipment) I recently purchased Cooper Discovery ATR tires. They definitely get a much better bite off road and in the snow and I am very happy with them on the street too. I don't expect to get the miles of wear that the STs gave me, but I like the extra traction.
  • nylibnylib Member Posts: 9
    Can anyone recommend an oil filter other than the increasing difficult to find OEM Jeep filter #5003558AA ? Are there specific manufactures who standards are equal to or above Jeeps?
  • gh1961gh1961 Member Posts: 30
    i use a TG? think it is an 8316 from wal-mart...the high quality oil makes the oil change and higher end filter worth it...nevertheless...it is there...how do u like that CRD?
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    I chose the MANN-FILTER p/n W 719/14.
    I changed it every 15,000 miles and have over 100,000 miles on the truck. The engine runs like new and cold starts are still very easy with the original glow plugs...
    I use 5W-40 synthetic oil and my replacement battery is better than the RedTop Optima for cold starts.

    Merry Xmas to all :blush:
  • ecramanecraman Member Posts: 25
    I bought a Honda CRV. CRD was OK but lately too much maintenance cost.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Purolator make two I know of the standard one and a PureOne model. Mobil 1 also has an oil filter as well as K&N. Amsoil carries a few namely Ea and WIX. The Ea is high grade filter for about $13.00 (preferred customer price).
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Maintenance on the CRD is really no different than any other four wheel drive vehicle. Is the Honda two wheel or four wheel drive? If it is the latter, then you will encounter comparable maintenance costs and issues.

    I do almost all of the maintenance on my CRD. It is actually pretty easy (for a near sixty year old) and you only need a few basic tools and a little time.
  • nylibnylib Member Posts: 9
    I had bought a case of OEM filters from Jeep about two years ago and have used the last one. I changed my oil about every 5-6,000 miles and have had virtually no engine problems. I now have about 70K miles on it. I was a little concerned when I bought a Fram TG8316 and compared it's size (capacity) to the OEM filter. It seems considerably smaller so I picked up a Purolator Pureone PL25230 ($9.00) which cross references with Jeeps recommended 5003558AA and it more closely matches up size wise.
    I bought my CRD new in 2005 and have been very happy with it. Minor complaints are crappy original tires and I've had some rear brake issues. Still, the vehicle has been great! I have 3 different friend who want first shot at it when the time comes to unload it. I only wish Jeep had continued making the CRD.
  • synlubessynlubes Member Posts: 184
    your rear brake pads have thirty percent les pad
  • gh1961gh1961 Member Posts: 30
    Thx for the tech info...the only probs i have had with my CRD outside of drive train is window regulator(found one for $99 on ebay with a LTWarranty and simply put it in myself), and a water leak at the rear seal on the hatch. but i will soon post my novel of gripes about dealers and and the drive train issues
  • gh1961gh1961 Member Posts: 30
    does anyone run marvel oil like me or similar?
  • crash227crash227 Member Posts: 46
    Thanks for the tip on the Purolator Oil Filter. I will try them. I have used the Fram TG filter on everyh oil change and I have 90k miles on my 2006 CRD. I am pretty happy with it too, although my alternator went out on Christmas Day. I am replacing the battery and alternator because I know my battery is just about shot too. I do my own brakes and am surprised at how fast the rear pads wear out. My guess is traction control cycles the rear brakes to control slippage when in 2WD. I run in 4WD anytime the roads are slippery now.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Just for the info:
    I changed the first set of front disks at 60,000 miles which is very good for mountain roads and commuting in saturated traffic ;)

    My (original) rear brakes are almost worn at 100,000 miles. I expect to change them when my second set of front disks will be due.

    My winter mileage is 18 mpg using either 'SHELL', 'TOTAL' or 'ESSO' diesel. Our equivalent to your 'COSTCO' gives me the same mileage :sick:

    I left the 4WD 'Full Time' engaged for more than one year to evaluate the eventual increase of wear and effect on mileage. I saw no significant difference but the increase of safety in cornering is worth more than the few extra cents spent on fuel.
  • fred_blogsfred_blogs Member Posts: 9
    Hi,

    I have a 2002 CRD Cherokee in the UK. I have a couple of questions:

    When I started the Jeep yesterday a red light next to the fuel gauge came on. It is a small circular light that is on the diagram of the dashboard but doesn't have any corresponding description. Any ideas what it is and what it means? I couldn't see anything in the manual.

    Today after a motorway drive of 200 miles and joining local roads I needed the 4WD as I skidded on black ice. When I pulled up outside my garage the jeep was extremely difficult to turn, like it had a puncture or the handbrake was on. I took it for a test drive and it worked fine going forwards but as soon as I started to turn or reversed it had the same issue. Again, any ideas? There were no warning lights on.

    Thanks

    Matt :sick:
  • allan_jallan_j Member Posts: 10
    I picked up a few pints myself this week end am curious also.
    I'm sure it won't hurt.
    Not sure if it does any good, I will have to try it and see.
  • crash227crash227 Member Posts: 46
    I have picked up some great tips on this forum and posted a few items myself that I hope have helped someone with a DIY attitude & aptititude. Today I found something that every Liberty CRD owner should know. My alternator recently tested bad at Autozone. Their supplier was out of stock ($160.00 rebuilt) and ditto with all the other parts places I called. My local Jeep dealer could order one for me for about $500.00. After some calls I found "Marv's Auto Electric" on Van [non-permissible content removed] south of M-59. I took my alternator there and Marv fixed it for me in about 5 minutes and charged me $20.00. The drive pulley has a centrifugal clutch that fails frequently and that was the problem with my alternator. Since there is apparently no reliable replacement, Marv installed a puller with no clutch. I put it back together today and everything works great! To test yours, take off the belt and spin the pulley quickly. If the clutch does not engage quick & solid, you have the same problem. When I turned my old one, it barely had enough clutch friction to turn the guts of my alternator with very obvious slippage.
  • zellerzeller Member Posts: 9
    I've enjoyed pretty good mileage with my 05 CRD. Good, meaning 16 around town and 31 on highway cruise. Suddenly I get way poor mileage, I'm talking 14-24mpg. Anybody got any thoughts?
    Bill Z in NY
  • jahastyjahasty Member Posts: 1
    What kind of battery are you installing? The standard battery is a dealer only item and they wanted $304 for a replacement.
  • nottowaynottoway Member Posts: 67
    Which replacement battery did you install...??
    edlankford@gmail.com
  • nottowaynottoway Member Posts: 67
    Bill- I check my mileage at every fill up and in 120,000 miles sometime running B-10 >>>B-100 but mostly on #2 low sulfur oil.....I never average above 21 MPG on my 2006 CRD.
    They should take the "Trail Rated" medallion off this animal because if I had taken it off road it would have never survived. It continually falls apart just driving on surface streets in SoCal. Windows (all replaced) complete rear end replacement, CRV boot replacement, AC compressor replacement, stop lites, weather strip, just waiting for the next shoe to fall. Ed
  • gh1961gh1961 Member Posts: 30
    Ed, you should have gotten the Chrysler (Jeep) Off-road package. It includes:

    An extended warranty with 5 days rental included while the Jeep is in the shop on the rack (off-road).
  • gh1961gh1961 Member Posts: 30
    seriously, mine had a blown turbo when mine did that...oil was running down the driver's side of the motor.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    HAPPY NEW YEAR
    I forgot the reference of the battery, it was made for the former Oerlikon now owned by Johnson Controls, just like Varta and Optima... The model I chose uses the whole 'footprint' of the battery tray. Take the model one size above the original battery and remove (hand saw) the clamping protrusions on the longest side. You use the original fixation points in this configuration. The cold cranking power is rated 50A lower than the Optima but this makes no difference when you use 5W40 full synthetic oil.
    Do not forget the CODE for the radio, changing the battery can become unpleasant without it!
  • mdamickmdamick Member Posts: 277
    The small red light is for the key security system
    On the 2005, if I use a regular key, that light comes on and the engine shuts off in 30 sec.

    As to the drive issue, your 4WD did not disengage. I have found that I need to drive straight, put it in neutral and shift to 2WD. Then put it back in drive and you will sometimes get a clunk as it changes. The lever does not act direct on the mechanism, like my pickup. It is spring loaded and does not always want to shift if the driveline is loaded.
  • lelandjlelandj Member Posts: 5
    Recently, when I go into 4WD, the ABS light comes on after a few minutes. After I go back to 2WD, the ABS light stays on for a few minutes and then goes off. Any ideas as to why? Would this be covered on my extended warranty (I have 39000 miles on my '05 CRD).
  • gunnar2gunnar2 Member Posts: 11
    hello crd owners,
    does anyone care to offer advice about replacement batteries for the 2006 crd? mine is not quite ready to go yet, but in checking around i am not finding a lot of people who sell them.

    thanks,
    gunnar2
  • allan_jallan_j Member Posts: 10
    I picked up a red top at AutoZone a few weeks ago. Not cheap but has full3 year replacement warranty. About $200
    The studs were slightly closer to the center and I had to bend the negative cable a little to fit squrely and tightly. Other then that it bolted right in like the original.
  • synlubessynlubes Member Posts: 184
    optima 850-u should be on the internet about 159.00 deliverd yellow to would be a better choice about 179.00 the have more cranking amps than the one you have should last about six to eight years
  • bobandbekbobandbek Member Posts: 2
    I'm having trouble getting the 4WD to disengage on my '06 Liberty CRD. While in 4WD everything is fine then when I go to disengage there is a vibration in the front. If I put it back into 4WD the vibration is still there. The only way I can get it to disengage is to put it in reverse and spin the tires. Any thoughts?? Thanks Bob
  • mdamickmdamick Member Posts: 277
    I just put in a Rayovac 875 CCA for $90
    Fit perfectly.
  • gunnar2gunnar2 Member Posts: 11
    hello liberty folks,
    i just wanted to send a thankyou to mdamick and allan_i for responding to my question about replacement batteries. i will include these options in my search.
    gunnar 2
  • bmartinpebmartinpe Member Posts: 51
    Does anyone know of a locking transmission dipstick for the CRD? My tranny stick keeps popping out. Since I am constantly plugging in the block heater for the cold spell, part of my under hood procedure now is to push the stick back in.

    When I had my GMC Suburban, GM issued a replacement dipstick with a flip-lock for the transmission. Is there one available for the CRD?
  • isxisx Member Posts: 7
    I wedge mine under the engine cover. It has not moved yet.
  • gh1961gh1961 Member Posts: 30
    i thought it was the repair shop hanging mine whenever they would remove my engine cover. let me know if you find a solution.

    on that block heater, i found enough room to run mine out through the grill. given the color match you can not see it unless ur looking for it or 20' away.
  • kbratbergkbratberg Member Posts: 1
    I have an 05 CRD and I am having problems with the front end. It feels like there is no susspension at all. Every bump I hit makes a scrunching sound in the front end. Also I just had an aliagnment done and its within specs yet it pulls severly to the right with four new tires on it. It only has 54k on it and I also just had to put a new turbo in it, have replace an egr valve, egr hose to intercooler, intercooler to turbo hose, cold air intake to turbo hose, the watchamacalit that lubes the turbo, a new downtube oil hose. With such few miles on it this seems kinda redonkulous with the amount of repairs that i have had. Each hose has cost me $180, replaced because oil was inside them and oil rotted them out to the point of blowouts. In return you get no boost. I have also already replace two window regulators. Now that some of those problems are done, any suggestions on my front end, even thou I have also replaced the struts on the front? All in all I do like this vehicle other than the fact it doesn't nickel and dime me to death its more like ben franklin's me to death. I think I've paid out more in repair costs than i've made in payments over the past two years. :cry:
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Have you checked the ball joints and articulations of the suspension arms? The scrunching sound can come from the coil springs.
  • isxisx Member Posts: 7
    What happened to your turbo? What oil do you use? Did you get to see your old turbo? With 54k miles the turbo should have been under warranty?
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Did you have the ball joints replaced under the recall some years ago?
  • 62446244 Member Posts: 1
    I'm new to this site and recently and have become interested in the jeep crd as a second car and was wondering how reliable this vehicle is? I presently own an 04 superduty ford with a 6.0 liter diesel. It is slightly modified with a programmer and intake and exhaust. It is a beast but runs awesome. Any advise would be appreciated. Thanks P.W.
  • 05crdjeep05crdjeep Member Posts: 59
    My impression is that if you're into tuning and mods, the Liberty CRD is kind of picky and less easy to mod successfully.

    The traction, torque, fuel economy and "that comes as a diesel?" factor are the upsides.
  • fred_blogsfred_blogs Member Posts: 9
    Does anybody know of a good manual for a 2.5 CRD? I've had a look at Haynes and Chiltern and both have bad reviews. I am in Europe so it would need to cover that model too.

    Thanks
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Have a look here:
    http://richard.fortin.free.fr/Jeepforfun/2005%20Welcome.pdf
  • fred_blogsfred_blogs Member Posts: 9
    Thanks caribou1 for the link. For some reason when the guide loads none of the links to various sections work. I've tried it Safari and Firefox without any luck. I'll keep looking.

    Thanks again.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    You may have a slow connection? I have Firefox and the links work well for me. You can also use the parent directory and download the files directly.
  • nottowaynottoway Member Posts: 67
    It was not offered by the dealer, I did not have a clue that was available. All I got was the extended 70,000 mile warranty. I drive 50,000 miles a year so it did not take long to chew that up.
  • oscarfree1oscarfree1 Member Posts: 3
    if you are using mopar glow plugs they have a 1year/12,000mile warranty. i have a 2005 crd i have replaced all of my glow plugs. the #3 has been replaced 3 times and is bad again. it all started in june 2008. does anyone know what is wrong.
  • CRD_BullydogCRD_Bullydog Member Posts: 19
    Hey,

    The glow plug hole is filled with carbon. Putting a new plug into a carboned up hole bends it slightly and causes premature failures.

    Just how does one remove carbon from the hole? I used Hoppes bore solvent and a very small bronze brush on a cleaning rod section (.22 cal). It this the approved method? Naaaa! If you are carefull it works fine.
  • rickundrickund Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2006 with 36000 miles. I have replaced the number one glow plug 7 times. The check engine light comes on and when I take it to the dealer its always the same glow plug. They say they are not going to replace it any more. They say I'm the only one having that problem. Can't explain it. Anybody got any ideas.
  • johnhayworthjohnhayworth Member Posts: 16
    get a yong hungry lawyer and sue. They have no idea wat's wrong. Go to a machanic that eworks on diesel and get help. jdh;-)
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