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Jeep Liberty Diesel

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    mdamickmdamick Member Posts: 277
    I was fighting the same codes recently.
    What I did was clean out the boost sensor. It didn't look bad as I have the EGR disabled, just a little oily. I hosed it down with carb cleaner and it hasn't acted up since.
    No performance issues before or after.
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    winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Axel,

    If you look in the owner's manual, you will find that 5W-40 is an acceptable alternative to the 0W-40.

    The RedLine oil I am using is a "CJ" rated oil designed for the new diesels with the particulate filters. The 0W-40 is a "CF" rated oil. The common thread between these two ratings is that they are both low ash. Redline costs about $9.95/quart plus shipping from the manufacturer. I have another source that costs less and if you purchase $100 or more, and shipping is free.

    I read your test results and it sounds promising. Please keep us informed as things move forward.
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    crash227crash227 Member Posts: 46
    I am curious about the comments on the type of Oil to use in my CRD. I have a 2006 CRD with 83k miles on it. After a few Dealer Oil Changes at $115.00 each with the 0W-40 oil specified in the manual, I started doing my own. I could not find 0W-40 so I am using Mobil 1 5W-40 Turbo Diesel Blend. The manual says 5W-40 is OK as a second choice. I use a fuel additive and I regularly "Blow the Soot" out of my CRD by running it hard from a slow roll up to about 75 MPH. I have had not EGR issues that I know of and my Turbo Boost Pressure Sensor has only been clogged a few times in 3 1/2 years and 83k miles. Should I switch to another oil?
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    crash227crash227 Member Posts: 46
    I forgot to mention that I also started using a powerful magnet placed on the outside of my oil filter as an extra precaution. I found this recommendation on a big web site dedicated to Engine Oil with a heavy degree of detail. I can't say it has helped, but it certainly can not hurt. I took the magnets from an old computer Hard Drive, but I plan to buy some at Radio Shack for my other vehicles.
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    synlubessynlubes Member Posts: 184
    use the magnets for the inside of the filter they work a lot better
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    winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    As to the oil you use, that is a personnel choice. I have no love for Mobil 1. They have not kept up with technology changes. There are better oils out there that will not contribute to system carbon buildup. I like Red Line 5W-40. I have had no oil consumption issues and I have less soot buildup.

    Additives are helpful, especially cetane improvers because domestic diesel fuel is so rotten.
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    tired_old_davetired_old_dave Member Posts: 710
    Winter2,

    Saw the post for the speaker question. Searched for a back up copy of my canadian sourced? cd shop manual. Probably gave that and the original away at the same time. Wish now I had sent it to you.

    Checking in from time to time to see the results of your tire purchase. I was wrong about my cycle tires used years ago. Believe we went with metzler but avon was a brand chosen by others.

    I believe redline 15w40 was in the crd when we traded it in. Can't find anything in the redline file and the huge crd file is long gone. I think that was the first time I talked to Dave but also it has been awhile since dfw flirted with zero degrees.
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    winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    I have done a fair amount of looking, touching, and questioning and now it comes down to size.

    My CRD came with 225/75/16. Chrysler, Costco, and Tirerack does not show an optional size, however some local tire dealers have stated that a 235/70/16 and even a 245/70/16 tire will also fit without touching or hitting any of the suspension components. I am skeptical about sticking a 245 tire on the CRD but I would probably be content with the 235 tire. Most 225 tires are LT and that would make the ride too stiff.

    All thoughts and opinions welcome.
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    wvav8torwvav8tor Member Posts: 12
    I put 235/70/16s Coopers on mine and they fit great. They are the Discovery ATR and they have a very aggressive tread that does not sing and are warranted for 50000 miles.

    dusty
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    synlubessynlubes Member Posts: 184
    i am using 5-30 amsoil new world oil for diesels will be 0-20 comming soon
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    jr101jr101 Member Posts: 2
    Well, only after 8 weeks from being in the shop, my little crd is back again. This is my 9th trip in less then 2 years. In Sept I replaced my 4th EGR and once again my engine light came on. Brough it back to the dealer, NOW they are saying my transmission is gone. I have about 62000 miles on it, bought the extended warrenty 2 years ago and I'm less than 2000 mile over it now. However, it is acting the exact same way it did when i hd to replace my 3 glow plugs - all they have done thus far is a basic diagnostic with their little machine...
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    prairiegirlprairiegirl Member Posts: 21
    Engine light came on - dealer says it is a bad glow plug. Shouldn't glow plugs last longer than this? I've only got 32,000 miles on my little '06 Liberty. Are glow plugs covered by my extended warranty?
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    prairiegirlprairiegirl Member Posts: 21
    Does anyone know of a really experienced Jeep diesel mechanic in the Tulsa area? Love my dealer in Claremore and have had very good experiences with other vehicles. But, they themselves admit they don't work on diesel Liberty very often.
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    axelf66axelf66 Member Posts: 17
    Should be covered on your origiinal factory warrant, 36,000 or less.
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    axelf66axelf66 Member Posts: 17
    Hi Winter. Well I think I may have the EGR problem solved. After my last comment I cleaned the MAP Sensor and the Boost Pressure Sensor with cleaner. That seemed to solve the problem but to be on the safe side and after consulting with te repuable dealer the dealer warrantied the EGR valve ans defective and replaced it. Hopefully this will solve the issue . I have learned a lot about my problem and wish to thank all who participated in fixing this problem. Chrysler really needs to step up to the plate ion this and find a alternative for the EGR system on this unit. I understnad this is a constant problem on the vehicle and they should take care of it no matter what. I also understand one can buy what is called an EGR Kit to bypass the EGR. While this won't help in states the requireire emission testing and can not be done by the dealer I would think that it would help in severe issues like mine. Thanks again. Wish me luck and I hope the damn light does not come back on again.
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    prairiegirlprairiegirl Member Posts: 21
    It is past the 36 months, that is the reason I was asking about the extended warranty. If it is covered by the original warranty then it SHOULD be covered by the extended warranty I would think. Bought the best warranty available.
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    axelf66axelf66 Member Posts: 17
    Yes it is mine
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    prairiegirlprairiegirl Member Posts: 21
    Mine, too. Dealer called and told me it was covered. Thanks.
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    nylibnylib Member Posts: 9
    I have an opportunity to purchase 4 Blizzak WS60 235/65/16 for my '05 CRD Liberty. Does anyone know if these would fit and not interfere?
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    CRD_BullydogCRD_Bullydog Member Posts: 19
    You should always get the exact same size as original equipment or a small diameter tire for winter 225 75R 16. I believe a Blizzak comes in this size. :)

    The optimum tire size for a Liberty is 205 80r 16 but they are hard to find. ;)

    If you are not a high speed driver but are in need of a great tire and great value for winter trips check out the FIrestone Winterforce UV 225/75R16. They are available from Tire Rack at a huge saving price. Truely a great snow traction tire!
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    shar13shar13 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2005 jeep liberty diesel. Recently I had the oil changed at a lube shop and they apparently stripped the threads on the oil pan. Much of my oil - down to the minimum level was on my garage floor when I noticed oil leaking out from under my jeep. Can I hold the lube shop liable? I had to have the oil pan replaced by my jeep dealer and the mechanic said that the new oil plug that the lube shop put in was so loose that he could move it back and forth. He said if I would have gone over a "bump", the plug could have come out and I would have lost all my oil. Any mechanic who could give me your response regarding liability would be appreciated.
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    desmo750ssdesmo750ss Member Posts: 17
    ok, so I now have the same problem (surging and smoking while driving, idling fine) I was able to get home at about 30mph but stepping on the throttle, the surging starts and big plumes of smoke come out.
    I followed the thread but did not discover what hobjr's solution was. I read a lot of suggestions but what ended up being the problem? A trucker on the road (that was telling me that I was smoking a lot) told me that it is a clogged fuel filter but I find that unlikely as the problem began suddenly and not gradually.
    Thanks in advance
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    desmo750ssdesmo750ss Member Posts: 17
    Apparently the striped oil plug seems to come up a lot. I have the same problem but temporarily I sealed it with high temp silicone till the next oil change. I don't want to change the pan because the problem will probably reappear later by the next oil-change idiot. So, I am going to tap it to 1 or 2mm larger and make (or find) new wider oil plug. You can probably hold the oil-change outfil liable if you have receipts. You may have to file a complaint with your State's consumer automotive affairs dept to have some clout behind your claim, or at least threaten them with the reporting.
    Not a lawyer so I may be way off on this....
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    storageguystorageguy Member Posts: 30
    These are my suggestions, for I have had a similar problem. When it lurches I pull over and turn it off, waiting 10 seconds, like re-booting a computer. This often works. To just keep driving I found does not solve anything. I also use a fuel conditioner every other tankful, this seems to really help and little or no smoking.
    From time to time I give the Jeep a good long, fast run which seems to clear its lungs.

    I would not discount the fuel filter advice. I think the filter does not gradually slow down the vehicle. It gets to a point when it is full or blocked and then you get what you have described. Hope this helps :):)
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    storageguystorageguy Member Posts: 30
    One item sold by Jeep parts is a replacement plug that instead of a recessed socket has a regular bolt like head. The oil change guys then are dealing with what they see all the time.
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    CRD_BullydogCRD_Bullydog Member Posts: 19
    Well, It sounds like your ERG valve is stuck. It happens when it becomes to carboned up. To try and free this:
    1)Make sure vehicle is turned off. 2)Unplug the MAF Sensor (located on the air filter) Do this by pulling out the red tab (located on the plug) to its stop, then pinching the clip on the plug and removing. 3)Restart your vehicle and let idle until temp gauge show that it is at the normal operating temp (needle pointing up). Note a check engine yellow light will come on which is indicating the MAF sensor is unplugged - ignore for now. 4) At this time try to rev the engine several times. If normal operation begins (no surging) try to drive the vehicle on a short trip. If smoke and surging has ended then continue to drive the vehicle for several days at moderate speeds and moderate distances. 5) The MAF sensor should eventually be plugged back in when the engine / vehicle is turned off. If the problem does not reoccur immediately you may be in luck. 6) Service the Oil with recs below. or replace the ERG valve if the above steps didn't work (expensive).

    Basically, your choice of engine oil (too thin) has carboned up your ERG valve and probably your MAP (yes MAP is different than MAF) sensor. Having a mechanic clean the MAP sensor is a good idea (he should use carb cleaner spray on the removed sensor). Also you should start using a a heavier weight diesel oil in the crankcase. If you are in a warm climate (all the time like California) use Mobil Delvac 15W40 or Shell Rotella T 15W40 on a 3K schedule with a good filter like a Puralator (Pure One). If is is a temperate climate use heavy weight in Summer and lighter in Winter. Good Winter Oil is Shell Rotella T 5W40 Synthetic or Mobil 1 5W40. Winter change schedule can be 6K if you use synthetic oils.

    I also suggest you buy your diesel fuel from a truck stop that has a large amount of truck traffic. You can bet if the truckers are not buying there is something wrong with the fuel. Word get around in the trucking world.

    Good luck and find a non-dealorship mechanic that knows the Liberty Diesel Engine (unless you got bucks to burn) .
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    desmo750ssdesmo750ss Member Posts: 17
    Thanks CRD Bullydog, I will try the recs over the WE. I've been using Chevron Delo oil, I hope this is not what caused the prob as I heard great things about Delo. I use it on my vintage motorcycles and has been great.
    Also, any suggestions on turbolag? It gets a bit anoying when I floor it and it takes 2 or 3 seconds to respond.
    Regards
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    mrmag00mrmag00 Member Posts: 16
    Having changed my oil the other day it took 3 attempts to stop the oil from leaking from the drain plug. Went to the local dealer to get the copper washer and there had never been any in stock. So much for the dealership changing the washer each oil change.....

    I have a oil plug out of a 2002 Saturn which has an "O" ring when
    makes a perfect seal each time with little torque required. It appears
    to be 1/2 inch fine thread. Am thinking of getting a crd plug and having a local machine shop cut a groove in it for a "O" ring.
    Anybody have any info on how deep the groove is in relationship to the height of the ring..?

    Here is the link the the pics of the plug I took.">

    http://photoshare.shaw.ca/view/13452437393-1256940219-70673/0
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    ischilfischilf Member Posts: 2
    Hello all. I'm new to the forum, but have had my 2005 Jeep Liberty Sport CRD since it was new.
    Last year during the winter I was using jet fuel in the diesle engine and noticed only one difference, that being that when it was at idle the temp guage would be a little warmer (still in normal operating temp) then using regular diesel bought from cenex. I was told this was because of the higher burn temp of jet fuel. I didn't mind it because it meant the diesel engine would share its warmth better.
    When using regular Diesel in the winter it would take a long time before the cabin was warm enough to take a jacket off. I've noticed this with all diesel vehicles i've had.
    I also noticed slightly better MPG with the jet fuel. I noticed it was a lot cheaper for me to get it as well.
    I use to work for a small freight airline and when it came time for one of the planes to get a fuel tank inspection i always got a free fill up.
    I was wondering what the long term damage, if any, would be from running jet fuel in the vehicle as opposed to regular diesel.
    I know that jet fuel is tested and regulated alot better then diesel, think it may have something to do with its primary customer flying, but not sure.
    Anyways, i was just hoping for more opinions then A&P mechanics.
    Thank you,
    Ian
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    isxisx Member Posts: 7
    I would worry about the lubrication properties in jet fuel. Diesel fuel pumps are lubricated by the fuel. Also the high combustion temps in the cylinder can't be good for the pistons and injectors. I have seen guys melt aluminum pistons just with propane mixture The injectors are about 500 dollars a piece. Just a thought, I know nothing about jet fuel.
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    axelf66axelf66 Member Posts: 17
    JP4/JP5 (Jet Fuel) do not have the viscosity of Diesel Fuel. They are pulled off the stack at a much higher level. JP is similar to Kerosene and burns much the same. The compression ratio of the fuel is much hotter and could definately do some damage to your motor.

    FYI I am a retired Aircraft Mechanic and also worked for Conoco in my younger days. I would suggest not using it. If your looking to run something lighter use winter diesel and an additive.
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    ischilfischilf Member Posts: 2
    Thank you for the quick answer. I know that the fuel was using an additive called PRIST. I beleive that is to keep the fuel in a liquid state at the higher ALT. It also added some sort of luberication to the fuel for the pumps in an airplane.
    We were running Jet A, i'm not sure what the difference is between JP4/JP5, my A&P friends said that Jet A is much cleaner then JP4/JP5, but with out having the stats on both, i do not know what the difference is.
    Thank you for the help, and answers.
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    caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    The o-ring groove should be slightly deeper than the radius of the seal. When you put the edge of a knife over the seal in it's groove, check that the seal does not fill the section of the groove. It needs to move in the groove.
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    winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    I presented Amsoil 5W-30 diesel oil to the engine manufacturer, V.M. Motori, and they told me that so long as the temperature was below 40 degrees F, the oil was fine. Anything above 40 degrees F and the oil did not have the proper specs to protect the engine. On Amsoil's website, the 5W-30 is not even listed as an optional oil for the CRD. Only the European Formula 5W-40 is listed.

    http://www.amsoil.com/mygarage/vehiclelookup.aspx?url2=2005+JEEP+LIBERTY+5
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    winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Unfortunately, with emissions standards here to stay, the EGR valve is here to stay until someone comes up with a better way of reducing NOx in a diesel or a gasser for that matter. The issue with EGR failure in a diesel is the level of soot and that is based on the quality of the fuel and how much detergent and/or cetane improver one puts in the fuel.

    As I have said in the past, domestic diesel fuel is swill. The Europeans have better quality fuel in terms of cetane and have fewer aromatic compounds in their fuel. Only in CARB land, California, can one get something resembling European diesel. Aromatic compounds contribute to particluate/soot formation as well as low cetane numbers.

    I have over 57K miles on my CRD and have only had the EGR replaced one time at 14K miles. With the help of my local dealer and others here on this blog, and especially Caribou, I have not had to replace the EGR. I "blow the nose" at least three times weekly
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    winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Got a question here. Are you sure it is the glowplugs? Have someone check the power output from the battery, especially if it is the one that came from the factory. I changed out the original battery from my 2005 recently and replaced it with a group 34 DEKA battery. The fitment was fine and it has 875 AMPS @ zero degrees F and 1012 AMPS@ 32 degrees F. My CRD turns over beautifully.
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    winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    I would be very careful about using a non-synthetic oil in the CRD. If you have an engine failure that can be attributed to the oil, you are basically screwed and Chrysler will not cover the repair.
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    emp2emp2 Member Posts: 20
    I have found that simply slipping the right size O ring on the oil plug seals very well with out needing much torque . The O ring will stretch over the plug with out having to removing it .I found this method after I accidently left off the brass washer and did not want to remove the plug and lose the oil . This method also worked for me after getting an oil change and they left off the brass washer, then tightned the plug to the point that it could have stripped and it still leaked . I believe accidently leaving off the brass washer has been the cause of many stripped plugs when they are over tightened to try to stop them from leaking .
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    emp2emp2 Member Posts: 20
    Is there any way to know if the brass washer was left off when the plug was stripped . That would help your case . See my message # 10660 .
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    shar13shar13 Member Posts: 2
    Thank you for your response, I will ask the mechanic at the Jeep dealer who hopefully can tell me whether the brass washer was on or off . Thanks for your help.
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    desmo750ssdesmo750ss Member Posts: 17
    Hello Bullydog,
    I followed your recommendations and sure enough it stopped surging and no more smoke. As you said, the engine light has come on. One question, I still hear (when stepping on the throttle) a louder-than-normal air-rushing sound from around the turbo location. I heard that for the first time when it first exhibited the surging. Could there be a blown or slipping-off hose that would do that? What is a CAC hose? (as some one else suggested I look for)
    Also, will 15-40 Delo 400 been the cause of my problem? I've been using it for about 20K miles so far and I thought it is a good product?????
    Regards
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    CRD_BullydogCRD_Bullydog Member Posts: 19
    The hissing is because of the excessive carbon in the exhaust and turbo which should blow/burnoff in a few weeks driving with the MAF unplugged. Again, I recommend not driving in an agressive manner with the MAF unplugged.

    The CAC hose(s) (Charged Air Coler) usually refers to the hoses from the pressureized/output side of the turbo going to the intercooler to the engine intake on turbo charged diesel engines. It may have popped off (doubtful) or inflated from excess heat and oil until it split (thus emits a hiss when pressurized). The intake air side hoses of the turbocharger are not this problem as it has been using clean air thru the air cleaner. These CAC hoses could be checked by any certified mechanic for free with a visual inspection and could be replaced easily.

    A split CAC hose reduces the amout of pressurized air from th turbo to the engine thus reducing power. They should be replaced very soon if damaged.

    The oil you are using would be ok for California year round driving on a 3K service interval.

    Hey make sure you mechanic cleans your MAP sensor when you take it for the CAC hose check.

    Aren't Turbo-Diesels Fun???
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    mdamickmdamick Member Posts: 277
    If you blow a turbo hose you will know it as you will have no power.

    You may be hearing a little more noise as the turbo may be winding up a little more with the MAF disconnected.
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    hemiramhemiram Member Posts: 1
    does anybody make a programer for fuel economy instead of power? do the power programers help with economy? any help would be nice. i`m getting 22 combined city highway.
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    caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    This truck is rated 22mpg in Europe; I've been getting this mileage for 6 years now.
    Just bought a Toyota Cami for my wife: it's ultra small, miniature for me, sub compact, has only 87HP and gives 23.5mpg. The Jeep is really not hard on fuel when you compare cherries and pumpkins ;)
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    mdamickmdamick Member Posts: 277
    I got 26.3 out of my last tank and 20.4 out of the tank before.
    It is quite dependent upon weather and road conditions.
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    nicku812nicku812 Member Posts: 13
    My daughter drives my 06 CRD Liberty and loves it. Recently someone was tampering with the fuel cap and was wondering if anyone know if they can get a green locking cap. They have locking caps just no Diesel ones that fit the CRD model. Any suggestions. I want the green one to remind anyone else who may drive it that it need diesel. Thanks...
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    winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Unfortunately there are no green locking gas caps for the CRD. If you look at the inside of the filler door, it says "Diesel fuel only". I suppose you could paint the cap green.
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    nicku812nicku812 Member Posts: 13
    hey thanks for the info. I figured that but just wanted to see if there was something else knew of a generic fuel cap. Thanks......
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    iee1mkiee1mk Member Posts: 3
    desmo750ss

    Just wanted to let you know that I had the exact same problem with surging and smoking just this past Sunday. I looked at your post and saw that pulling the MAF helped, so I tied it because I knew I shouldn't drive it far in that condition. Then, I also had the sound of rushing air, but with some loss of power. The advice to keep the MAF unplugged for a few weeks just didn't sound right as most of the sensors are designed to work together. So I called my dealer and explained the probem and the first response was a booster hose. Took it in this AM and sure enough, the hose had a 4" gash. They replaced the hose, plugged the MAF back in, and its again running like a top.

    I have had very little trouble with my CRD and I think engine wise, other than the above, just a bad glow plug. If you can get service from a dealer that understands the product, problems are almost non-existant. I have several dealers closer to me than where I go for service. The place I go to is in a smaller "farming" area and sells a lot of diesel trucks, so working on diesels is second nature to them. I even go there routine oil changes and such.

    At times, I look around a these posts and really can't believe all of the gripes people have. The Liberty CRD was a very limited production vehicle over two model years, which was a well known and advertised (by Chrysler) fact. So one would have to assume--like computer software--version 1 is not going to be perfect.

    I'm hitting about 60K now and can't imagine not having my CRD. It was, in 2005, about the cleanest diesel on the road, gets better than advertised mileage, has the pulling power of a much larger vehicle, and real four-wheel drive to boot. An on top of that, it has never not started and run for me, even when having the above problem, I could count on it to run.
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