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Comments
As a clarification for anyone reading this, you do not need to run you engine wide open through the gears to do this. You can do every thing that the EGR valve and the turbo need in 3rd gear lockup saving the transmission and the torque converter.
Have you heard the little 'humm' coming from underneath the vehicle just after stopping the engine?
You might be hearing the turbo control valve as it hums as it adjusts the vacuum to the turbo vanes.
I follow Caribou's method of clearing the EGR by turning off the overdrive, stomping on the gas from a dead stop or near dead stop and running the speed to 100 KPH and holding it there for a about ten to twenty seconds.
If I fail to clear the EGR for a week or when traffic has been especially bad, then sometimes I must do the aforementioned procedure twice to clear out any accumulated soot.
On occasion I might hear some electrical noise and I think it is coming from the motor that controls the flap used to shut the engine down more smoothly. I could be wrong and then again my hearing is not the greatest either.
As to starting, I do hear a little sound from the rear that lasts a split second when I first start the Jeep in the morning or if it has been sitting all day. I believe that the fuel system is being pressurized in some way. If you try to pull the fuel filter after you shut down the engine and do not remove the fuel filler cap, there is a good chance you will get a little shower of diesel fuel all over the place. The tech at the dealer I use strongly suggested that I remove the fuel filler cap before changing the fuel filter. As to cavitation, if the fuel system does not leak, then air entering or being created by cavitation is very unlikely.
One of the easiest ways to get air in the fuel system is to fill the CRD or most any diesel while the engine is running. If you are really low on fuel, it will probably happen. Diesel fuel loves to foam when dispensed from a pump. I saw it happen to a guy in a Ford with a Powerstroke . I warned him and he looked at me like I was from another planet. He filled his truck, got into it put it in gear and after twenty feet it sputtered and died. He could not restart it. I drove away with a smile on my face.
My engine does not have the EGR air flow valve; I have the older system and my turbo sets it's pressure with a waste gate instead of variable vanes. I have the pre-production version of the one you have. I never get OBD codes on my console; mine is under educated compared to yours
Here is a page of the MY2003 manual describing my EGR system. My EGR is easily accessible, it sits just above the turbo and on top of the engine. I wouldn't get my hands dirty if I had to change it. This is much less sophisticated and highly efficient :shades:
http://richard.fortin.free.fr/KJ_diesel/OldCRDengine.pdf
You gotta love it when you get instant gratification like that.
At a filling station I saw a pile of 1.25 US gal plastic bottles of what I though was windshield cleaner. They were filled with a crystal clear liquid that looked like water but was synthetic urea, compressed natural gas I think it is. Truckers who have modern tractors fill a separate reservoir (located behind the cabin) with this liquid. I was told they have an alarm that goes ON when the reservoir is empty and they can still use the engine when the emissions are no longer controlled.
Under these circumstances I agree to upgrade because the vehicle's performance remains.
What pressure do you run them at?..did you check the pressure lately? I bet it's low.
I notice when I use my winter tires , I take a hit on mileage as well, but I know I am safer in the bad weather until the summer then I put my summer stock tires on. and I always run them at 38 psi..
Can you get Stanadyne cetane improver ?or Lucas formula upper cylinder lube additives there ?, your in France right?..
I would dump half a bottle of the stuff in her just clean the injectors they are partially plugged got to be..
What temperature is it out?..
are you plugging her in at night?..I blocked off my rad by putting 2 pieces of card board in front of it, until the weather gets above 40 Degrees. at least 5 Celcius..
I can't believe shell Vpower gives worse mileage..I've had good luck..we take a hit on mileage as well because of winter fuel and the cold weather that is expected.
when was the last time you had an oil change?..
there is a lot of factors ,could have filled up with old fuel..
How about about the air filter hows she look?..and the fuel filter when was she changed?. should be changed every 2 years..
I get 26 mpg in the city but have better on the expressway route.,. I use the expressway to get to cruising speed of 90 km's then put it in cruise and then Decelerate , till I hit 84 km's/hr, that's 55-50 mph for you U.S. guys ..I drive in the truckers lane..that gives me 33 mpg on the highway.
That's if your willing to save on fuel, to leave for work 10 minutes earlier and drink a coffee on the way while listening to music..and idiling to work.
.IT'S NOT A RACE !! pace yourself..you'll save ..
.Here in Canada Diesel is at $3.10 U.S. /gal 80 cents a litre. That's incentive enough ya know..?.
Now everybody doesn't go over 55 mph , since the gas crunch in the summer.. And don't worry I won't rear end you ,you'll have a bunch of people doing the same , start a fad I always say ..I get critisized at work because I drive that speed but I am not late,and I say I get better mileage how about you ?
what your mileage at 80 mph? they always answer crappy?..I say Oh I see..hmmm who is right now..??
well let me know how you make out?
good luck..
I run at 2.7 Bars / 39.2 Psi, 4wd permanent, weather went down to -10C during two weeks at the most, 5W-40 full synthetic oil and filter change every 25,000 KM, air filter is changed as soon as pollen covers it, fuel filter is replaced every 40,000 KM, I'm in heavy traffic between 1.5 and 2.5 hours everyday, I drive at 110 KPH and only get 18 mpg. But I'm not alone in this case, other Mitsubishi and Toyota trucks perform the same way. Altitude is 450 mt here, 10ppm Sulfur diesel is now less than one Euro per liter (~5USD per Gal).
All this to say my truck has been used for almost 6 years and gave steady performance since day one. You have to understand that I get a bit less mileage because the engine is limited to 150 HP instead of 163 or 170 HP. When I had the original tires it didn't perform any better.
I tried using the worst fuel available in supermarkets, because the higher end fuels did not justify the extra cost. I get exactly the same mileage during the winter season. This is new to me; I inquired and found that winterized fuel can be sold all year round simply because it isn't forbidden and doesn't need to be labeled "special fuel limited for winter" :sick:
So, during the winter season I will buy the cheap stuff and wait until summer to buy Shell Premium Diesel afterwards. I heard V Power diesel was OK for manual shifters, but did not perform proportionally to the cost.
that crd grey liberty you saw was probably me as I was going to the airport.
Actually my color is considered silver but I believe grey would fit.
Tnilc99
Today I received an unsolicited call from my local dealer. The diesel tech has a CRD in the shop with an oil consumption problem and possibly some EGR clogging related to the factory recommended engine oil, namely Mobil 1 0W-40. He asked me for information concerning Amsoil and Red Line oils.
I am doing this on my own, but could you submit the following information to me? I would like to give this to the tech to see if there is a trend toward a problem.
1. MY of your CRD
2. Mileage to date
3. Which oil you use, including viscosity and how long you have been using it.
4. Oil change interval.
5. If you have to add oil between changes, at what mileage and how often.
Thanks
Mobil 0-40 since new. Oil & Filer at 10,000 KM (6200 miles)
70,000 KM
None of the associated problem I see on the posts. Had the benefit
of ULSD since new here in Canada.
All the best,
Mr. Mag00
2. Mileage = 62,600 miles
3. Which oil = first 2 oil changes Mobil 1 5W40 then Rotella T 5W40 except last oil change Mobil 1 5W40 (special at Advance Auto, less than Rotella T) Stopped using Mobil 1 because of ticky lifter - see if it comes back now?
4. Oil change interval = 6,250 miles.
5. Stopped using oil around 16,000 miles. Barely moves on dipstick now.
Nescosmo......
Here are my numbers:
1. MY 2003
2. Mileage 91,000 miles (145,000KM)
3. Oil Shell Rotella 5W-40 and 3 times Yacco 5W-40 from Jeep dealership (first fill, 3000 miles and 60,000 miles service)
4. Oil + filter change interval 15,000 miles (25,000KM)
5. Never needed to add oil between services
mileage 108,000
Oil: Mobile 1 0w40 0w20 Filter: Mobil 1
Interval 6500 miles
Clean MAP sensor every other oil change.
2. 141600 mi
3. Rotella 5W40 since 3rd change
4. 6000 mi
5. varies-1000 to 6000 mi-not consistent :confuse:
(think not always filled full @ change)
Please give me the part numbers and names you used for your tranny rebuild.
I am ordering the suncoast tq and transgo shift kit.
What other things did you replace with aftermarket? Name of the pump? Etc.
I am sick of the shudder and sloppy shifting so I am biting the bullet and using my tax refund.
60,000 mi.
Valvoline syn 5-40. Bought CRD new and replaced Mobil 1 w/Valvoline when I got it home from dealer.
3-5k/change
Never need to add any oil. Runs great, mileage great, replaced EGR @ 45k/0508.
Part# 72010b the other is P# 72013a TrasGo kit HD2 (T72169) use sealant Black RTV for your pan.(Makco Distributing. Inc.).
Go to Air Ram Induction and get a PML Deep Transmission Pan P#10304 (205.75).
Go to B-Line filter Supply Inc. (www,blinefilter.com) and get.
Racor R25S filter
Racor 245R122 Assembly filter
Go to Omega.com and get a TH-44004-1/4NPT-18 Pipe-Plug Thermistor Probes.
or call them and tell them what you want(203)359-1660.
Go to Summit Racing Equipment.(www.summitracing.com) and get.a P#Sum-800115 Gauge fuel Pres Liquid F. Know this is for the fuel filter and do not forget to get the new fluid pump for the tranny P#68009879AB(260.00)
I will get you a place where you can see how to install the fuel filter next time .
let me know what you are going to do.
nescosmo...
I have seen some discussion on the LOST board about the shudder coming back even with the Suncoast. How has your experience been?
I see some just drop in a new tq converter and perhaps didn't replace the pump, etc.
Does your trans now "hold" gear better? Do you notice more power as claimed by Suncoast? I just didn't want to drop a bunch of money into something that will come back.
My mods include:
Skid Row Skid Plates All Around
Straight Pipe
BFG 235 KO/AT
Just took delivery of the SERG so waiting to see how that goes. Currently disconnected the MAF.
About the tranny some of those guys do not use ATF+4 fluid some of them use Amsoil and plain ATF. also some of them abuse the tranny.
My TC work tight and positive on the acceleration so far I do not have any shudder run smooth and some what less noisy I bought it for security more than anything; Jeep replaced the converter two time. first the tranny sound like something was loose inside and the second time it did not go on over drive and tranny got hot.
To me I think I made a good choice and when I accelerate the response is there.
Nescosmo, was this sound intermittent and impossible to isolate? Kind of a heavy rattle parallel to the normal diesel rattle that could be started by putting transmission in or out of gear. If it would do this all the time I could maybe find the source, but every time I get serious about finding it, it goes away completely.
I havent had to do very much to mine, once they performed the f-37 my tranny works great.
I run b-100 for fuel and jumpered around the egr crap, have lots of power.
I been working with a propane mod I designed and my mileage went from 23
to 31 mpg. It uses around a pound of propane per every 2 hour and 10 minutes
of run time. That equates to roughly around 1 gallon of propane per tank full of fuel.
Money wise thats around $4.25 to get an additional 160 miles per tank full.thats around 3 cents a mile I believe.
Im thinking about putting a provent system in, thinking that it may help keep the oil
cleaner longer. Are you running the provent filter in yours?
Nescosmo......
nescosmo......
Where did you put the tank for the Propane mod. How does it sound, how does it smell, how could you use propane with the CR system, how does the fuel pump get lubrication with propane, do you use additive on the propane for lubrication. Please let me know
Nescosmo.
It seems not only the CRD engine will be Italian, but the rest of the truck as well :surprise:
a gallon. thats only because we are paying 50 cents a gallon for good used oil.
If we can find descent used oil for free then it only costs about 60 cents a gallon.
the trade off between regular diesel and bio is exactly 1 mile per gallon.
Now as far as the propane feed I personally use a small bottle, you know the short
fat ones. I charge them up myself from a regular 4-5 gallon propane bottle.
The set up is : bottle + regulator ( regs pressure to 1 psi ) + 12 volt solenoid valve + needle valve + tygon tubing. I have mind routed and it feeds into the little port where the MAF sensor use to be. The needle valve regulates the flow to 45 scims
( standard cubic inches per minute)
Right now I am playing around with the flow rate to see where my best advantage is.
The most noticeable change I reconized is say your traveling around 45 or 50 mph and you go to pass a vehicle were you really put your foot down on the accelerator.
normally your tranny will kick down to lower gear, but you will find that you dont
need to push a full pedal and the torque generated with the extra power will propel
you forward in the overdrive gear to the point you really notice the power. Its kool as hell.
Im also working on a state of the art hydrogen generator, but thats a whole other
conversation piece. As soon as I get it built and installed I will give yuh an update on any additional milage. My goal is 40 mpg overall.
Later Gator
bz in NY
In some countries you are not allowed to park in an underground garage or drive through a tunnel when you carry liquified gas; firemen must remain 100 yards away from such a vehicle when it catches fire. This is the reason why we have only few liquid propane gas vehicles. Only those equipped with an 'approved' release valve can sneak into the traffic, but firemen never know if the valve is there or not
What do you think.
Whatever you discover today seems much more complicated, but others have often observed it before