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I would not change anything on the vehicle that might hinder the warranty. If you are out of the warranty time frame, then K&N and maybe even a low restriction exhaust system could help. Their are a few chips on the market as well.
All in all for me at this time I love the vehicle, it tows and hauls and gets through heavy snow and mud with no problem. Best wishes on yours.
THANX!!!!
THANKS
nescosmo.
The problem is that after a while it will quit talking to it.
The fix is to turn off the engine for a minute or so to reset the computer.
I was about to purchase a new Ford Powestroke but the message board to our bigger diesel cousins doesn't pain a pretty picture of that either. Seems to be a POS for people the same as this has been to us. The employee pricing is a no brainer when it comes to saving money but the lack luster fuel mileage and the countless problems they seem to be having forced my hand.
Cummins is just to expensive and they're not without some issues. Looks like I'll be stuck with this little rat for a little while longer :sick:
http://www.eservicecontracts.com/
Will purchase manufacturer's warranty after getting burned on Warranty Gold going bankrupt. Had Warranty Gold on 2 other vehicles and was OK, but still had hassle getting authorized repair. With Chrysler warranty, never a problem. Our 3/36 just ran out on our 2005 CRD, so have not used the extended warranty. Was concerned about the EGR valve problems and repair, so decided to get the extended warranty. Had 2 EGRs replaced right after the CRD was new, but has been no problems for over 2 years now. We are getting 28-30 mpg on the highway and 22 to 24 in city driving.
http://www.eservicecontracts.com/
If this is really your case, someone else is in deep trouble because we only have 4 cylinders in our diesel engine :P
As for the seal no being broken when you purchase, very excellent idea!
Bill in NY
farout (once owned the "Green Beast CRD)
You and me have something in common: we don't need an EGR valve anymore
I never really considered putting mine into service again and I'm enjoying an expensive but trouble free truck.
Seems we will have to ride trains to get to work because of the price of fuel. I don't want to tell you exactly how much I pay, but it's about 2.5 times your price.
A few small cars were tilted on their side doors by people who steal fuel by perforating the tank. This is becoming to resemble the "Mad Max" movie :sick: A "SUMO" truck does have it's advantages :shades:
D.
Any comments appreciated,by the way,the truck will pull the load but is limited to the very high temp and haveto pull over and let her cool down at about 1200 revs.On the flats or moderate grades it goes great in overdrive.
I added an aux radiator that seems to help the engine temps on mine.
I got ready of the air in my fuel by Installing a Master pump(E8012) that I bought in AutoZone, it was very in expensive but what a change in the CRD, it run like silk.
Well now I want to replace that 10 micron filter with a nice Racor (245R122) but the problem is that the plugs for the heater and the heat sensor are males, now where can I get the female for those plugs or what numbers they are. I do not want to hotwired them.
Nescosmo........
My truck MY2003 came with the Racor system off the assembly line.
Both heater and water sensor connections are vital in our case.
If you buy the complete Racor filter, ask for the proper connectors to be supplied with the transparent filter bowl. I think it's best to change your connections because this heater draws enough current to make me worry about a "cheap patch".
So far, this is good material. I change my fuel filter cartridge every 25,000 miles. I never had any improvement after putting the new filter, and I never saw any water in the bowl in 5 years. But fuel quality depends of the distributor (here at least) and I've had excellent normal diesel from Shell. I don't use their "V-Power" because I don't see any difference. I think the automatic transmission absorbs the "early torque" a better fuel can provide due to the programming of it's shifting sequence.
But my red top Optima battery went without a warning after 4 years and 9 months. This is what people expect from a cheap battery over here. I installed a heavy duty diesel battery instead and noticed the battery receptacle is molded to the size of the Optima 50AH 815 CCA :mad: A replacement battery of the same footprint (size) will give about 60% of the cold cranking Amps value.
This is to say that we should never go off road after the warranty of this battery expires. I didn't pay attention to this because my other vehicles have Japanese batteries, and they outlast my memory.
And don't forget your code for the radio system We should keep it on a sticker underneath the battery
After the dealer tech had replaced EGR valve the CEL was on and he read a fuel code of some sort so he changed the fuel filter and the light went out. Twice now the CEL light has come on but goes out after I pump the filter pump a few times. Also, the mileage has dropped from 30+ down to 22 with the new EGR valve. I talked to the tech and he has no clue until he can run diagnostics. Would appreciate any input.
Nescosmo.
Nescosmo.
Diesels are only automatics.
My CRD get 25 city and 32 to 34 highway and this what I did.
1- The SEGR
2- Replaced the muffler with a Dynomax D2219392.
3- Install the Provent.
3- Replace the Air intake box with a 1992 or 93 gaser air box.
4- Install the TranGo Kit #HD2 on the Tranny.
5- Did the IN motion for the Computer.
5- Install a Master fuel Pump from Autozone #E8012S.
6- And now Install a Racor fuel filter #245R122 that come will a heater for the fuel .
7- Install on the Racor an Omega TH-44004-1/4 NPT-18 Temp Sensor.
I put 2 Cycle TC-Wc3 oil in the fuel to at 1 once per gallon for lubrication and smoothness in the engine.
And one day I will install the Suncoast 545RFE-CRD-1 TC on the tranny and maybe the Pump too.
My CRD run like a silk and the power is great.
Love This Tractor.............
Nescosmo..........
2. What is the In Motion for the computer?
I just replaced both on mine-$250 and they gave me a 10% discount!
They are the same hoses and I know I will start losing them in about 1.5 years.
My pickup has 15 years and 237000 miles and the metal pipes with rubber connectors have never given any problems.
I think that the part #s are: T/B part# 55037729AC. Turbocharged Intercooler TB-2459 Part# 55037730AC or AD checked it out. It is life time.
Nescosmo.....
I am considering installing this in the trans of my CRD. What impact has this had on the performance of the transmission?
With the TrasGo you go from 1st to 2en and so on without skiping one.
If you replace the shifter do not install the resistor if you do the shifting is very hard.
Now if you replace the TC and Pump then you could install the resistor.
Nescosmo....
Thanks for the info. I intend to get this kit and install it in the next few months, resistor included. Frankly, I prefer a good firm and fast shift as there is less friction and less heat produced. Both heat and friction reduce trans life.
It will do that.
When mine did it, it usually stalled.
Keep in mind that the turbo hoses are AFTER THE FILTER. Any solid material getting loose can interfere between a valve and it's seat.
I've been wondering why you guys have this sort of problem; I have the impression it's because your (intake air and exhaust gas) EGR mixing flap lets too much pressure build up when the engine is turned off. My hoses often swet oil but never needed any attention so far.