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The dealer offered to remove the added accessories on the car that make up the protection package, and reduce the selling price by $379. I decided to keep them. I know that I would have saved money by getting the accessories on-line and installing them myself... Anyway, according to my calculations, it seems like you paid invoice for yours. Congratulations!!! The documentation fee I paid was $45, it seems you paid $129. Other than that, you got a fantastic deal.
I tried but was not able to get the free oil change. However, the dealer does have promotions for oil change and tire rotation for $35, which is not bad. I did get a free nice polo shirt with the Acura logo. Mine is a 2008 automatic, no nav, carbon gray pearl with ebony interior.
$360.04 per month including tax
$1000 out of pocket including first month, fees etc.
10 k per year, going to buy the car anyway
Access. at dealer cost ? bought trunk mat and all weather mats, very nice
I think this was a good deal, not great but I was happy and the car is great, I was told that Acura studies suggest 89 octane to be the best overall, 93 too pure and burns too hot! I was going to call some service advisers to get more opinions.
I think the term is "cap cost".
What was the selling price of the car used on the lease?
Can you also break down the $1380 fees?
Thanks!
Are the accessories included in the lease or did you pay for them upfront?
I'm in greater Boston (good old Taxachusetts!) I apid $26,800 + TTL as some fees as I list in previous post within this thread.
Negotiating is a bit of a tough sport here but always possible.
My approach way to lay it out honestly - To tell them that I had done my research (Edmunds, Consumer reports CarPrice Svc, etc) and have decided to BUY a TSX Today at a fair price... that usually get's the "What's Fair ?" question.
Best if you go right into Sales Mgr Ofc with this approach - They will often speak with you directly so long as they aren't trying to close a different sale, it becomes a no commission deal (or their commission) at that point and they have to close the deal with you anyway...
In response to "What's Fair?" I tell them something like - I want you to be here when I need service, etc and I want you to make a profit ... then I layout the numbers that add up to my target price (e.g. Invoice - Dealer Hold Back - Any Mfg to Dealer Incentives = Price) I figure they always have a few additional items like Doc & Admin Fees that are mostly profit, and I know they wont accept my first offer, but it doesn't give them any wiggle room either as all the cards are on the table....(PS It's Too Early in MY2008 for TMV to be accurate as yet - witness the other deals listed here)
My Target Price on the TSX was Actual Dealer Cost + 1/2 of Dealer Holdback... I ended up paying about $200 more than that + about $129 in profitable Doc & Admin Fees...
Be Sure to discuss that negotiated price includes everything that goes to the dealer and anything above that must be Tax, Actual Fee for Title processing and Actual fee for License plates, inspection sticker, etc.
If you are getting close to a deal turn the tables on the sales guys - tell them you are really close and ask if he is going to "let go of the sale" over a measly couple hundred $$ ? Reminding him your offer is for right now today, not "maybe" or "next week". Sales Guys have good data indicating a vast majority of people who leave the store never come back in and even when they do , someone else gets the sale (commission)- that's why they try to get you to buy today...
Pull out your check book so that they can see it or mention you would be willing to make a credit card down payment to indicate your serious about Buying, not shopping....
Don't use this approach unless you truly are done shopping and ready to buy, they might just accept and you don't want it to be bluffing. If you just want to shop - do it online, go to diff. dealer or go Sat. afternoon (busiest) talk to that sales guy, ask "what's a good deal for this car? They'll often tell you a good ball park number, likely better than they can really do to hook your interest. Compare it to your own target prices and you know the range you are working in ...
NEVER Accept something higher than your target price - politely say thank-you when you reach an impasse and then tell them you will seriously consider it and call them tomorrow... Then do that. IF they say it's goo d for "today only"... thank them and leave, unless it's the 31st, and they are right on edge of bonus level, you'll get the same offer tomorrow or the next day.
Good Luck on your deal - Remember its your money and they want it you can buy the car anywhere!
:shades:
With the 2008's out and the $1000 marketing support on the 2007's I think I can get a good deal. Is getting one OTD under $25,000 possible?
p.s. Thanks for all the advice I've used from here to successfully lease three cars over the past 9 years!!
2008 TSX, non-nav, automatic trans. 36 months, $325/month, 10,000 miles, $2,000 out the door. The deal includes Luggage Net, Trunk Tray, Wheel Locks and Front and Rear Splash Guards.
The price that I received is $26,630. The price including the accessories is $26,909.
The Capitalzed Cost of your deal Looks Good !
You will need to back calculate the interest rate on the $325/mo. payment, But I think Acura has a 2.9% Lease deal going. Be carefull there and make sure you know the Annual Percent Rate (APR) not "Finance Factor" (the Fin Factor estimatable as APR/12) and the residual Value (the car's Book Value at the lease end). Dealers not offering the Acura Lease rate can hide profit in outrageous "Fin Factors" as they always look small but get applied each month (12 times per year). Residuals greatly affect the monthly payments. If you have no interest in buying the car after the lease is up, then argue for highest possible Residual Value Factor - I don't know what they are for TSX but shld be .55%+ maybe .60%+.
Lastly, the 10,000 annual miles seems a bit low, but it all depends on how much you drive annually.
If you get good answers, then it looks like you've done pretty good! Certainly better than current Emunds TMV.
Need some savvy advice so that when I do actually goto the dealership in person, I have a good foundation to start my pitch. I'm figuring its the last 2007 model, and there are plenty of 2008 models with the same specs so I should be able to leave with a good deal.
Concluding this, I wanted to know if I get it for $27,000 range, coming out to $29,000 out the door. If I'm getting a good deal for the model and specs. If not, what should I do when I approach the dealer.
Thanks!
It is hard to neogotiate with dealer. I think it is a good deal.Thanks for the information I got here.
Paid a total of roughly $29,000 OTD.
around $389 monthly payments.
2007 Acura TSX
Black exterior w/ black leather interior
6-speed manual trans
I believe that there is still room for negotiation, but I am stumped by one of the numbers. When I asked about their money factor, I was given 1.85. I qualify for top tier financing and am interested in taking advantage of their 2.9% lease offer, which expires today.
At first, I thought the 1.85 was the APR, but the salesman told me in an email that it was the money factor. This is my first time leasing and am trying to stay on top of this terminology.
Can anyone tell me what the 1.85 really is and if it is negotiable? I was expecting to see a money factor of .000xx. From the chain, I also wondered if it was the Finance Factor.
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If my money factor is indeed .00185, is that favorable? From what I have seen, top tier lease financing money factors look more like .000xx, don't they?
.00185 is about 4.45%, which seems pretty good for a new '08 model.
regards,
kyfdx
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And check this out, http://blogs.edmunds.com/strategies/387
Where I would start?
Invoice price (including destination)
Minus - $1500 incentive
Chances are, you'll have to come up $500-$800 from there.. But, if the dealer only has a couple of '07 units left, then they may feel they don't need to discount that steeply.. If they have 6-10 on the lot.. maybe it will fly..
regards,
kyfdx
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do you have taxes where you're buying? How much? I am filling a little ripped as we just bought Saturday for a price of $25600+tax/title. That was OTD? Wow. :confuse:
What color did you get? I can't wait to hear all about it. It sounds like we got about the same deal, maybe your taxes are a good bit higher, what was your OTD?
(I won't talk about the 8.8 percent sales tax here in Washington. At least we have no income tax...)
At Gary Force Acura our salesperson started negotiations with, "I have the feeling you've done some research. What are the numbers you're thinking about?" I laid out what I knew, and that much info. came from edmunds.com. I really couldn't beleive it; he then turn his computer so we could see it, and looked up the info on edmunds. He looked at the data then asked what price we were thinking. Of course I went lower than what I thought we'd get. He then went away and came back with a much higher offer, and asked what would make it work. That's when I went for where I wanted to be. Low and behold he came back, and with that price confirmed. The whole process at Gary Force was pretty easy. Our salesguy seemed very open with us. So open I am still wondering if I was getting ripped somehow... I don't think so. I've spoken with him several time since. He just seems to know how to do the car business. He had been there for years and was one of there top salesguys - yeah, he had all the "presidents" awards and such. If I am getting ripped I much perfer this experience to other of being ripped I've had!
Any opinions would be appreciated.
MSRP 31005
CAP COST 28225
RESIDUAL 61%
MONEY FACTOR .00152
MONTHLY PAYMENT $359
36 MONTHS
10,000 MILES
TOTAL COST OUT OF POCKET WAS $1,500
595 BANK FEE
298 DOC FEE
270 MV FEE
359 FIRST PAYMENT
Good luck everyone
I don't think you left anything on the table.. That's less than I could have bought a new '04 back in 2003. :surprise:
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