Subaru XT Turbo Forester

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Comments

  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    The roof compartments fit a pair of sunglasses perfectly, FWIW.

    -juice
  • pon1pon1 Member Posts: 196
    Assorted cubbies on Foresters are great, give it time - yours will be full of useful stuff. The one behind to the sunglasses has my garage door opener, out of sight for better security. I really like some of the details, e.g. the tie down hooks in the trunk. But agree the turbo is the best bit of the XT, climate control is the worst.

    JP (MT, cloth and factory moonroof..)
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    Definitely go with a synthetic after you get some more miles on. If you live where it gets hot in the summer (over 90F or so) and use Mobil1, use the 10W30 as it should not shear as much as the 5W30.

    -Dennis
  • subearusubearu Member Posts: 3,613
    10w30 M1, really? I've got a couple quarts of that leftover from my '00 Outback. Our MPV uses 5w-30 M1 during the warmer months and 5w-20 M1 (use to be 0w-20 M1) in the winter months. SE Wisconsin can see 90F temps (July/August), but I suppose the average during the summer is closer to 80F.

    Though I only have 7k on my XT and it's almost 1 year old. :P

    -Brian
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Exxon/Mobil is now advertising a 15,000 mile synthetic. It'd be nice to double my dead dino interval.

    Steve, Host
  • once_for_allonce_for_all Member Posts: 1,640
    do they cover the warranty then, since factory maintains a 7,500 mile schedule between changes (3,750 if hard use conditions). I have been using 5W30 M1 since 1,000 miles, changing at 7,500 intervals to at least fall into a permitted category.

    John
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Ha, surely you jest.

    But everything I drive is out of warranty, so....

    Steve, Host
  • ll1ll1 Member Posts: 35
    Okay, I have to admit I am being a bit compulsive in the new car:

    I've noticed a high-pitched sound when the turbo spools up above 2.5K rpm, has anyone noticed that in theirs? I did not notice it in another car we test drove, but we picked this one for its price. I wonder if it's something I should bring up to the service department?

    Also, when I power up the stereo there is a low-pitched thump that comes from the subwoofer. Did I get a semi-lemon?

    Otherwise, so far so good....but still wish there is a moonroof.
  • hypovhypov Member Posts: 3,068
    The high pitch whirling sound of the turbo spooling is pretty normal to my knowledge.

    The low pitch thump, it's normal. The earlier subwoofers with the amp will thump when the ignition is at "On". In your unit the amp is built-in in the HU, so it'll thump when you power up the unit.

    -Dave
  • pon1pon1 Member Posts: 196
    does the high pitched noise sound a bit like a something catching the spokes on a bicycle wheel ? I bet that's wastegate flutter, common on a lot of XTs. Mine does it as well at about 2.5k rpm, most noticeable when in lower gears and on cold days. Nothing to worry about. The XT is qute a vocal beast as it gets going, sounds get even more fun above 4k.

    JP
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    Yes, 10W30 Mobil1 doesn't lose as much viscosity as the 5W30. M1 10W30 has a pour point of -45C. There are guys in the U.P. of Michigan that run 10W30 conventional year 'round. :) The conventional oils are definitely improving these days. Although with the superb engineering of Subaru engines, they do well on most oils. :)

    The M1 15k (different from the regular M1) oils shouldn't be used if you're concerned about following owner's manual recommendations. They even say so on their site. As emissions get tougher (GF-4 spec oils), M1 is still giving people the choice of a better oil.

    I'm planning to stick with German Syntec 0W30 since it didn't lose as much viscosity as the M1 5W30 in my FXT last summer, or the M1 10W30 in my WRX the summer before that. It might not really make much difference. Just peace of mind that I'm getting a little more protection.

    -Dennis
  • ll1ll1 Member Posts: 35
    Yes, you described it precisely. Comparing to the other FXT's I test drove, I feel mine has the loudest "wastegate flutter". And you are right, loudest during cold mornings, increasing from a ticking to a high-pitched whirl at higher rpm's.

    Can I tune this "noise" down? Where is the waste gate? I can hear it spool up and slow down, and gets a bit annoying. But if there's nothing I can do about it, I will learn to live with it... :lemon:
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    Dennis,

    Where are you able to find GC?

    Ken
  • subearusubearu Member Posts: 3,613
    So, I picked up some 10w-30 M1 and stopped at the dealer to get the filter and washer. Got home, took a peek at the filter and found the slightly fatter A060 white filter and not the smaller black one. My bad for not checking it at the service desk. :sick: :mad: :(

    Good think I looked at it before I started the draining and removal of the filter. Back to the service desk for the correct filter tomorrow.

    -Brian
  • subearusubearu Member Posts: 3,613
    Got the correct filter this afternoon, no questions asked. Parts guy apologized.

    -Brian
  • tacamojoetacamojoe Member Posts: 16
    I just bought a case of Amsoil Series 2000 0W30 anticipating my first oil change. I'm only approaching 1000 miles. When I get to 3000, I intend to make the swith to the 0W30. Is that okay to do?
  • tacamojoetacamojoe Member Posts: 16
    ">When I first gently push on the accelerator, there is a short pause before the car begins to move. The car has 950 miles on it. Is this normal? :surprise:
  • corkfishcorkfish Member Posts: 537
    Yep. That sounds normal and is probably associated with a little turbo lag. I test drove an automatic g35 and there was a brief delay when you hit the accelarator from a standstill. You won't feel it with a manual.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Boost has to spool up. Wait is minimal with the manual tranny, though.

    -juice
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    Ken,
    The only place that sells GC in the U.S. is Autozone.

    tacamojoe,
    There's nothing wrong with switching at 3,000. But since your engine is still breaking in, don't go past 5-6k on the oil.

    -Dennis
  • subearusubearu Member Posts: 3,613
    Got the filter and oil changed last night. Man does that little black filter suck up the oil during the pre fill! Forgot how much easier it is to change the oil on the Subies, especially compared to our MPV. Everything on the Forester is labeled and designed for easy access.

    Though I misjudged the oil drain a bit (it came out with more force than I anticipated), it was breeze.

    -Brian
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    How is it harder? Location of the drain plug? Oil filter location?

    The Miata's oil filter is in the worst position possible - on the side of the block, way up. Some people actually remove the right front tire to access it (no kidding). You inevitably spill hot oil on the side of the block.

    -juice
  • once_for_allonce_for_all Member Posts: 1,640
    IIRC, the '02 MPV has a simple plastic panel that has a couple bolts to remove and then the filter is right there.

    The Forester has those wierd pop screws, which are great until they get buggered up with dried mud.

    If you want a challenge, try refilling the Forester manual tranny without fabricating a funnel and hose set up.

    John
  • crashton6crashton6 Member Posts: 245
    Yep the Miata is a great car, until you have to take that %%#@**^$ oil filter off. My arms are too big to get my hands on it without taking the darn right front wheel off. :mad:

    Chuck
  • subearusubearu Member Posts: 3,613
    That is correct, the filter is accessible right from the bottom of the engine.

    BUT it is tilted at a 30 degree angle and is positioned directly over the front exhaust and O2 sensor. I use aluminum foil to cover the exhaust and allow dripping to continue onto the drain bucket. Also, the filter can not be easily hand tightened, you need that special tool (end cap wrench or 3 prong filter wrench) to properly tighten it. And seems like most on the MPV site have to tighten past the point of hand tightening to avoid leaks.

    The drain bolt is no problem.

    Compared to the Forester, the Subie is just more mechanic friendly - even DIY friendly. Even the plastic underneath the engine is designed for easy access to the drain bolt and filter. My Outback was good in this regard too (panel slid out).

    -Brian
  • once_for_allonce_for_all Member Posts: 1,640
    best I've seen by far are the new Tacos, the filter is right under the hood and there is a oil drain plate to catch the drips.

    John
  • subewannabesubewannabe Member Posts: 403
    I wish I had been as clever my last oil change. Drained out that worn out (3500 miles) M1 , pulled off the old filter, opened the new one and.....darn! Had to waste 4 quarts of M1 to get back to the dealer for the correct filter. GRRRR.

    On the plus side, after 24 K miles, I'm getting 24.3 mpg on the interstate with the roof open, blowing past lines of 'normal' drivers on the 2 lanes and routinely embarrassing Porsche drivers everywhere!

    Mark
  • subearusubearu Member Posts: 3,613
    My '87 Comanche with the I-6 was easy to change too, no need for a lift and the filter was vertical and easy to access. I think that filter held almost a quart of oil it seemed!

    -Brian
  • subearusubearu Member Posts: 3,613
    I think I always pull the filter off first, especially on my MPV since that's the messy part.

    But, I *knew* the turbo filter was black from previous postings here, so I should have been checking the filter when I bought it originally - not when I got home. So, while the parts guy was not paying attention to what bin he was picking from, I also could have verified the filter the first time.

    $6.37 with tax for the filter and the crush washer, FWIW.

    -Brian
  • ll1ll1 Member Posts: 35
    Removed the cross bars today, as no need in warm weather. Hoping it will cut down on wind noise and improve fuel mileage??

    Noticed the cross bars did not have direction arrows, and the dealer had installed the front and rear bars differently. The front bar was installed so the thinner lip faced forward. In the rear, it was the otherway around.

    Does anyone know if that's correct? Seems to me that the pictures indicate the bigger "lip" always face foward. Maybe that's why the bars howl at high speeds.

    P.S. Broke 500 miles today, almost there!
    Little rattle noises now coming from the dashboard at times, as well as from seemingly the air vent on the passenger side. Will have to stuff something somewhere to tighten up crevices I guess....anyone have any experience with rattle/creak fixes?
  • hypovhypov Member Posts: 3,068
    Think airplane wing :)

    The orientation for front and rear is the thicker edge [the bigger "lip"] always facing forward.

    -Dave
  • ll1ll1 Member Posts: 35
    Thanks hypov, will remember the correct orientation for the cross bars.

    By the way, how much are people paying for the armrest extension? The best price I have found is around $95 + shipping. Any recommended accessory sellers online?
  • ezshift5ezshift5 Member Posts: 858
    ..."....think airplane wing......"..... short and sweet. You an engineer?

    ...could've fooled me

    .....ez (BSME, San Jose State...bronze age)
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    try refilling the Forester manual tranny without fabricating a funnel and hose set up

    Actually, get a hand held oil pump, purpose built for the task. They work.

    -juice
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Get a funnel with a hose on it, very common at pep boys etc

    -mike
  • once_for_allonce_for_all Member Posts: 1,640
    ur right, but my tool chest didn't have one. As far as the hand pump, it takes an extra long hose and if it is below 60 degrees 90 wt just doesn't want to move.

    I had more trouble filling the tranny than I did the 4 spark plugs. So, listen to Mike and go to Pep Boys.

    John
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Cold gear oil is very hard to pump!

    -juice
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    It takes about forever to put it in like watching paint dry. :)

    -mike
  • ll1ll1 Member Posts: 35
    Does the subaru ski carrier come with locks? Or are they purchased separately?
  • dcm61dcm61 Member Posts: 1,567
    See my response in the Forester topic.

    DaveM
  • subewannabesubewannabe Member Posts: 403
    Maybe somebody already posted this, but my local Advance Auto Parts store now carries a Purolator oil filter for the XT and a two-step 65/67 mm fluted oil filter wrench that fits both the 67 mm OEM ( black) Subaru filiter and the slightly smaller 65 mm Purolator filter. Bought the filter wrench..made oil change easier.

    I removed my crossbars for a while. I liked the look but there was no noticable difference in noise as long as the front crossbar is parallel or aft of the rear edge of sunroof opening and found no difference in gas milage. I made a big difference in gas milage by keeping my foot out of the turbo until I needed it. While the acceleration with the XT is pretty cool from 0 to 50, that wastes a lot of gas and is rarely practical. The passing acceleration around a line of 4 "ordinary" cars and a livestock truck on a 2 lane road, from 45 to 85 mph, is far more satisfying and eminently practical. ;)

    Mark
  • oldogoldog Member Posts: 1
    I wouldn't change to Amsoil until 8,000 miles. Doing this will let the piston rings bed-in which means to you no oil consumption. Mineral oil allows for friction, synthetic does not if you put in a synthetic too soon you can have oil consumption.

    X Amsoil Dealer,
    Jim Mat

    For the others who state otherwise;
    I have a Corvette that comes with synthetic from the factory, I think the piston to wall clearance might have something to do with the oil.
    I stand by my first statement and all my autos use Amsoil.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I'm not sure if this is true for all of them, but for the ZR-1 I remember reading that the engines were broken-in at the factory with dino oil, then drained and refilled with synthetic for delivery. Pretty cool, but obviously not something they can offer to the masses.

    -juice
  • hypovhypov Member Posts: 3,068
    No, no engineer here.
    Just the run-of-the-mill ex-Banker current Production Scheduler with a NJ based manufacturer. :)

    -Dave
  • akasrpakasrp Member Posts: 170
    as my rear bumper is starting to get a few chips - I'm ready to stick a bumper cover on.
    Any tips - or - is it as easy as it would seem....

    still dig this crazy XT!

    srp
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I find it very useful. Mine's stuck on with two side tape, as far as I can tell, but it probably screws in somewhere also.

    -juice
  • ll1ll1 Member Posts: 35
    Does the Subaru (re-badged Yakima) Ski Carriers include the "ski-lift" feature where you can raise one side of the carrier to accomodate bindings?

    Trying to decide whether to go for Subaru vs. Yakima/Thule ski carriers...

    thanks
  • fishtookfishtook Member Posts: 17
    I'm this close to getting a 4Runner LTD but the XT is forcing me to take a 2nd look @ this Subi.

    Other than the expected turbo lag, any complaints or irritants one should be aware of (wind noise @ highway speed, squeaks or rattles, etc) ??
  • njswamplandsnjswamplands Member Posts: 1,760
    i have never seen this in my fxt
  • lfdallfdal Member Posts: 679
    I purchased one via e-bay a while back for when the one that's on there now gets too beat-up. It looks like double sided tape is all there is to it.

    Just be sure to strip off all the old wax before you install the cover.

    HTH
    Larry
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