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http://www.globemegawheels.com/servlet/ArticleNews/TPStory/LAC/20- 040722/WHINSIDE22/cars/
"For the consumer, there is virtually no way to tell what an aftermarket set of wheels and tires will do to their vehicle's ride and handling, except to say it will almost certainly compromise them."
This IMO is a strong statement of inaccuracy. I'm betting (with no reasonable facts) that I could equip a 300c with a wheel package that would easily outperform the OE as long as they were real close to the stock dimensions. His statement does have some merit if you consider rims over 20" (depending on the vehicle).
I guess his generalization that all cars with non OE wheel packages are evil just set me off....
US is supposed to be around starting at $28k from Touring...
Really? Wow, if I had the ability to be in that market, that would certainly give me pause, I think. I mean, yes, it will of course be full of Cadillac's latest electronics and features (which, I, in fact, love) but put up against 300C that goes 0-60 faster, hmmm.
http://www.autoweek.com/cat_content.mv?port_code=autoweek&cat- _code=carnews&loc_code=index&content_code=03874432
Thanks for such true and honest words.
For background, I ordered magnesium, sunroof and most of the goodies, except side air bags and electric pedals.
http://community.webshots.com/photo/166437338/166437492ZAhInD
An envelope with $2,300. in it.
http://www.caranddriver.com/article.asp?section_id=4&article_- id=8333&page_number=2
Here is the contents of that link below, and it appears that the Charger will be a completely separate vehicle from the Magnum sedan!
>>Chrysler 300 convertible and coupe
Already a solid success, Chrysler's 300 promises to become a series with the addition of coupe and convertible editions. The good-looking convertible draws heavily on the 300 Hemi C show car from the 2000 Detroit show. The coupe uses a sweeping C-pillar line to soften the 300's brick-like profile. DaimlerChrysler is also planning to offer coupe and sedan versions of the Dodge Magnum, as well as a revival of the old Charger nameplate. Look for the Dodge offerings as '05 models. The 300 coupe and convertible aren't expected until 2006.<<
It could mean they will be calling the Magnum-based coupe a Charger.
I'm looking into the Touring Model, but I'm a little bit nervous about buying Chrysler. Do you think this car will not have as much problems as the previous models that Chrysler built. Thanks in advance for your advise.
Charger may end up being the high performance package of the "Magnum"; but of course, we'll speculate the heck out of this until more info floats...
"heinzh2" thanks for the link and info!
I recently "built" a 300C online and the protection group is an option package there, so it's certainly not standard anywhere else. I'm sure it's an available option on all trim lines, except perhaps for the Base. A lot of times on those trim levels, option packages are unavailable on purpose.
The 300 Limited with all options is the closest to a 300C with all options. The only difference there is essentially the engine. (I have NOT checked to be sure, however. It's possible option packages like the CA Walnut and such are available only on the 300C on purpose--to create a greater distinction between the top end models and the others. The only way to know is to build it online. It'll tell you what's available when you build a Limited).
Now, if the convertible gets here, can be had with AWD and a 6.1L motor...<drooling> oooohhhhhh, I gotta have one of THOSE!
I got another question for all of you...
Regarding 300, I have nothing against it, I mean I love the car, it's looks and what it offers. However, I have stumbled upon the Nissan Altima 3.5SL, fully loaded, just aroudn 27K. It has one of the best rated engines, and the inside is well off as well. Including Bose system, Navigation, Leather (Even though it shouldn't be considered as something to talk about), and other goodies. I was thinking, just besides looks, wouldn't this be another great car to look into when relating to the 300 Touring or Limited?
Run it Hard !
Why ??
Nowadays, the piston ring seal is really what the break in process is all about. Contrary to popular belief, piston rings don't seal the combustion pressure by spring tension. Ring tension is necessary only to "scrape" the oil to prevent it from entering the combustion chamber.
If you think about it, the ring exerts maybe 5-10 lbs of spring tension against the cylinder wall ...
How can such a small amount of spring tension seal against thousands of
PSI (Pounds Per Square Inch) of combustion pressure ??
Of course it can't.
How Do Rings Seal Against Tremendous Combustion Pressure ??
From the actual gas pressure itself !! It passes over the top of the ring, and gets behind it to force it outward against the cylinder wall. The problem is that new rings are far from perfect and they must be worn in quite a bit in order to completely seal all the way around the bore. If the gas pressure is strong enough during the engine's first miles of operation (open that throttle !!!), then the entire ring will wear into
the cylinder surface, to seal the combustion pressure as well as possible.
If you don´t Run it hard:
The honed crosshatch pattern in the cylinder bore acts like a file to allow the rings to wear. The rings quickly wear down the "peaks" of this roughness, regardless of how hard the engine is run.
There's a very small window of opportunity to get the rings to seal really well ... the first 20 miles !!
If the rings aren't forced against the walls soon enough, they'll use up the roughness before they fully seat. Once that happens there is no solution but to re hone the cylinders, install new rings and start over again.
How to do it?
On the Street:
Warm the engine up completely:
Because of the wind resistance, you don't need to use higher gears like you would on a dyno machine. The main thing is to load the engine by opening the throttle hard in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear.
Realistically, you won't be able to do full throttle runs even in 2nd gear on most bikes without exceeding 65 mph / 104 kph. The best method is to alternate between short bursts of hard acceleration and deceleration. You don't have to go over 65 mph / 104 kph to properly load the rings. The biggest problem with breaking your engine in on the street (besides police) is if you ride your car on the freeway (too little throttle = not enough pressure on the rings) or if you get stuck in slow city traffic. For the first 200 miles or so, get out into the country where you can vary the speed more
and run it through the gears !
The gain in power from using this break-in method can be anywhere from 2% - 10% !!
AND; Change Your Oil Right Away !!
The best thing you can do for your engine is to change your oil and filter after the first 20 miles. Most of the wearing in process happens immediately, creating a lot of metal in the oil. Plus, the amount of leftover machining chips and other crud left behind in the manufacturing process is simply amazing !! You want to flush that stuff out before it gets recycled and embedded in the transmission gears, and oil pump etc...
Hope this will be useful to you.