Subaru Legacy/Outback 2005+

khallock

My old '98 Corolla had an auto car starter. I think thats the only thing I am missing with my new Outback. It sucks getting into a cold car! Has anyone had one of these installed? At the dealer the salesman told me if I wanted one they would have to place a key somewhere in the car since it requires the chip in the key be nearby in order for the car to start up. Thoughts?

Also I got to drive my Outback LLBean in the snow for the first time last Friday. Only 2 inches but it was at rush hour. And you wouldnt believe how some Vermonters still are lous drivers in the snow. My Outback slid around more than I expected it too. My husband says its because the tires have more surface area than my old Corolla. I do have snow tires on it, no studs though. Also I need to get used to these antilock brakes. I hate them! I would much rather no antilock brakes.

luck11

I have one from Autostart and love it. It's the Pro-start, two-way autostart with LCD on the transmitter, and has amazing range.

http://206.47.191.115/htmlpic.nsf/FramesetCE

Is yours AT or MT? Very few SAFE autostarts for manual tranny. This one is designed specifically for MT so car could never be started with car in gear.

Yes, key is required, but a professional installer will tuck it far, far up into the dash, where it is hard to find. If you're worried about the risk and willing to sacrifice your 3rd spare key, the installer can grind the key down so it couldn't be used in the ignition even if it was found. What matters is the chip in the key.

Cheers,
Jay

hilbert

Yes but wouldn't that defeat the whole purpose of putting the chip in the key. Of course, many people may not care about this, which is a different question.

beanboy

Do you have the stock OEM tires on your Soobie?

-B

khallock

Mine is an automatic transmission. I may think about an auto car starter next winter. I'll live thru this winter and see how I do . I'm not TOO TOO concerned about needing to have the key in the dash somewhere. I don't think my car will get stolen here in Vermont. And I dont go alot of other places with it.

Thanks for the info!

timo1745

This past weekend, my ex-fiancee-now-wife (happily married for 3 weeks now) and I decided to drive to Western PA to pick up a new siberian huskey puppy to keep our 8 year old huskey company. Rather than being all excited about another 4-legged addition to the family, I found myself more excited at the idea of finally getting to take a road trip in the new Subie!

With just the 2 of us and 1 bag, we made the 270 mile trip averaging approx 21.5 MPG with the cruise set at 78 MPH. On the return trip, (cruise set to same speed) we averaged a solid 24 MPG (I later remembered NJ uses the oxygenated/ethenol fuel during the winter, PA does not), so that was a little nicer. Even after 4 hours each way, the seats still felt firm but comfortable to my 210 lb frame, though I found myself wishing for about 3" more front legroom (I'm 6' 3"). As always, handling was excellent (even at higher speeds), passing power was in abundance in all gears/in all terrain, and the gas mileage was totally acceptible, especially in light of the fact my '01 Expedition gets 14-16 MPG highway.

All told, I have to rate this car as a truly wonderful travel vehicle...one I have very few if any real complaints about. I can't wait to try her in the snow!

Thanks for the bandwidth.

Tim G.
'05 OBXTL-5MT

kens

I'm surprised that it would be hard to start in 2nd gear with a 5MT OBXT. I would have thought that giving throttle to 2K RPM or so and then slipping the clutch might do the trick.

Not to rub it in or anything, but the 5EAT also has a nice feature: If you start from a stop in 2nd gear, it won't downshift to 1st after coming back to a stop.

Ken

sduford

No, I have Michelin X-Ice tires. My OEM Crapenzas are up on eBay as we speak.

Sly

locke2c

a good autosecurity shop can EASILY bypass the immobilizer, making it unnecessary to have a key near the ignition barrel.

unfortunately, a good thief can do the same. immobilizers only work on amateurs, which fortunately most thieves are.

~c

needanewcar2

Jay, we are from Montreal and just about to start pricing an Outback.
What is the invoice price of a 3.0 VDC? Or where would I find that?
Also, would you mind sharing with me(on my e-mail?) the name of the dealer with the great price?

Thanks Jay

RO

c_hunter

Jay, we are from Montreal and just about to start pricing an Outback.

Holy smokes, is Rosanne actually going to buy a car?!?!?

:-)

CRaig

luck11

Not sure what you mean. The chip still acts as security. Like I said, if one is concerned about someone actually tearing your dash appart to search for the module, then get the key ground down so it does not function in the ingnition. If your asking about security while the key is in place in the module, it is completely secure. Starter kill still functions if open door without disarming, and autostart automatically turns off vehicle with a press of the brake, putting car in gear or releasing handbrake.

Cheers,
Jay

hilbert

My bad. I thought you said that if a key is somewhere in the car then the immobilizer does not work because the chip is nearby. I thought that someone can start the car with some other device and immobilizer would not kick in because it can sense a chip closeby.
Thanks

luck11

RO, sent you an e-mail.

Cheers,
Jay

tickman

The tire pressure monitor on the 05 OB consists of a transmitter attached to the inside of the valve body on each tire, and a control module located underneath the driver seat. It looks like it would be an easy upgrade. Just install the four transmitters, and plug the control module into the connector underneath the seat. What's interesting is that each transmitter's ID code must be registered with the control module. This can only be done with the Subaru Select Module. In fact, the manual says to reregister the transmitter ID when rotating the tires!

I guess if you didn't register your own transmitters, you might get a low tire message from the Subie you just passed...

tsy

A few more things.

I have to agree that if you're going to be going off road and crawling over stuff, the MT is not fun. The clutch really stinks when it slips as you slowly try to power over stuff. I mean REALLY stinks (as in smell!)

A few more advantages of the GT I forgot to mention- it has quicker steering than the OB (nice on the twisties) and larger brakes (Nice to stop!) although I'm not sure why Subaru did this. The OB will still stop much better than most SUVs- just not as well as a sports sedan. ;-)

Good luck getting rid of your dinosaur!

tom

cptplt

Did anyone see that post at nabisco or the other place about a 0-60 time in the mid 6!Not bad for an auto!

c_hunter

Doesn't surprise me!

ateixeira

That's too fast. It is downright irresponsible for a family oriented wagon to be that quick.

I want one. ;-)

-juice

kens

tom,

Subaru had to keep some of the goodies just for the GT!

Ken

kens

Saw that too. I think it was Motor Trend that recorded it.

0-60 in about 6.5, yeah sounds about right. ;-)

Ken

sduford

"Subaru had to keep some of the goodies just for the GT!"

Not really, the Outback is the flagship!

Actually, I think they probably did that to give Outback owners the option of going to 16" wheels.

Sly

ateixeira

I think C&D took an automatic Outback XT from 0-60 in 7.1 seconds, IIRC?

But that's the heaviest car that uses that engine. The GT has shorter gearing (smaller diameter tires) and it's lighter, so as expected it's a few tenths quicker.

Mid 6s sounds about right.

sly: maybe so owners could get cheap 16" snow tire/rim packages?

-juice

tsy

Subaru's kinda being schizophrenic then. They are trying to move upscale, but hold back on the brakes and tires? Doesn't make sense. Even 17" rims are becoming commonplace.

If a 5MT can do a mid 5 0-60, mid 6 for the 5EAT makes sense, maybe even a little slower than expected. ;-)

Ken- I'm glad Subaru saved some of the good stuff for the GT- the quicker steering is really nice (especially when you have to go back and drive something without a quick rack- it's a chore!)

tom

stimulust

I am looking at a used (but brand new) subwoofer from a private seller. He upgraded and wants to sell his old one. He is selling the sub, the wires, and the mount sans instructions.

I have read posts where there are detailed instructions (#5459, thanks Jay) but I do not believe it mentioned the connection at the back of the stereo.

The unit will come with bare end wires and I am curious if the factory stereo has bare connections or if there is a mating connector waiting to be plugged into? Wires are red, yellow, blue, and green which I could probably back figure to deduce what ones are pwr,gnd,sig+,sig-. If the stereo rear is bare, are the wires the same color? Is there a wire tag with "subwoofer" or the like printed on it?

Still lovin' my OBXT MT. Gearing up for a 3000mi RT to see the parents for Christmas and was hoping to have the sub installed for the drive.

Anybody have ANY idea what the dealer or car audio place would charge to install the sub? I am leaving next weekend and not sure if I will have the requisite 3-4 hours of good daylight between now and then.

Thanks,
-jer

sduford

I was thinking more for guys who actually go off-road, the taller tire wals are better for the ride and to protect the wheels.

Sly

ateixeira

Actually, I haven't heard them use the word "upscale" lately. Maybe they backed off after they had to discount the Legacy and Outback to below invoice prices.

 

Yeah, tall sidewalls are good off road, even on sand for better floatation. I'd take the wider/taller Outback tires on sand any day over the GT's, which would dig in and sink a lot sooner.

 

-juice

sduford

I'm happy to report that this ended well for me.

 

The bad news is that there was in fact a stone impact on my windshield. After going through the windshield carefully, the service manager found a small stone chip where the crack took a 90 degree turn. This was just barely enough to fit the tip of his pen into.

 

I remarked that it was amazing that such a small nick could crack the windshield overnight, and that there really was no way that I could have seen it and got it fixed before it was too late. He agreed with me, called his boss, and two minutes later he told me they would replace it for free.

 

So this dealer has earned a few loyalty points with me! This is Subaru Outaouais, just across the river from Ottawa.

 

A very happy ending indeed, as these windshields are horrendously expensive. I was also surprised at how thin this windhield is. I guess Subaru was working hard to save weight on this car.

 

Sly

hilbert

That's very nice Sly. Congrats.

needanewcar2

I just read the chats on consumer reports. Someone complained that in cold weather their Outback H6 had trouble starting. Sometimes it got the click click sound you associate with a dead battery, but would then start after waiting a bit. Sometimes it wouldn't.

This person also said her dealer was aware of the problem and has seen it before but is having trouble remedying it.

 

Anyone else out there have cold weather starting issues? Heard of any issues?

needanewcar2

Yes, congratulations. Just don't drive behind any gravel trucks!

luck11

Is this an OEM sub or aftermarket? If aftermarket, I presume it has a separate amp.

 

The OEM sub came with a wiring harness with a fourteen pin connector that simply plugged into the back of the stock deck. Sorry, no wires in the back of the deck. You might want to check if you can pick up wiring harness that comes with the OEM sub and connect to it. Alternatively, get it installed professionally. I suspect they would charge 50-100 to install.

 

Cheers,

Jay

ttenrag

I am about to buy a new car and have narrowed down my choices to a few cars that are similar in price. 2005 Subaru Outback Wagon 2.5i Limited, 2005 Camry SE V6 with traction and VSC, and 2005 VW Passat.

 

I really like the Outback, but a 6'4 I am a bit tall. My main concern with the outback is that the model in my price range does not come with traction control or vehicle stability control VSC, and the all wheel drive system is a

90% front / 10% rear split, and it is only a 168 hp 4cyl.

 

For the same money I can get a Camry with 220 hp V6 and traction control and VSC.

 

And with the Passat I can get the 4cyl. turbo, more room and comfort, VSC and traction control, and the AWD system is more like a 55% / 45% split (???)

 

Just wanting to know some thoughts on what would be the better choice. I live in Pennsylvania (hills and snow).

 

Thanks guys (and gals)....

ttenrag

I am about to buy a new car and have narrowed down my choices to a few cars that are similar in price. 2005 Subaru Outback Wagon 2.5i Limited, 2005 Camry SE V6 with traction and VSC, and 2005 VW Passat.

 

I really like the Outback, but a 6'4 I am a bit tall. My main concern with the outback is that the model in my price range does not come with traction control or vehicle stability control VSC, and the all wheel drive system is a

90% front / 10% rear split, and it is only a 168 hp 4cyl.

 

For the same money I can get a Camry with 220 hp V6 and traction control and VSC.

 

And with the Passat I can get the 4cyl. turbo, more room and comfort, VSC and traction control, and the AWD system is more like a 55% / 45% split (???)

 

Just wanting to know some thoughts on what would be the better choice. I live in Pennsylvania (hills and snow).

 

Thanks guys (and gals)....

windnoise

Here is a question that seems to be ignored by 2005 outback posters - it is a great car but front windshield wind noise is too pronounced in a car of this quality - why didn't Subaru get it right after the driver side wind noise problems in previous models ?

windnoise

what are your thoughts on wind noise and noise isolation in the respective cars you have mentioned? I have owned a 72k 2001 outback and now have a 2005 outback and I am so impressed (except highway windnoise) that we may never own any cars except Subies due to safety, quality, durability and reliablity

sduford

I would take AWD over traction control and VSC any day.

 

The Outback's AWD system is actually 50/50 in manual and 45/55 on the automatic transmission. Subaru's AWD system is widely recognized as the best in the industry.

 

The Passat's AWD is probably the one that is 90/10 as it is based on the Haldex system. Volkswagen has been getting terrible reliability and satisfaction statistics in the last few years. Buyer beware!

 

The Camry is a nice roomy, comfortable and dependable car, although it is rather bland and boring, and it lacks AWD. That V6 is the same I had in my Highlander, and it is a very sweet engine

 

Sly

hilbert

I will be taking my Outback 2.5XT for its first long drive of about 400 miles one way. It currently has only 350 miles on it.

 

 Are there any special precautions other than the following the usual break-in procedures. For example should I rest the engine every 45 minutes or so? Also, once I reach my destination, for how long should I idle the engine before I shut it off (I have heard that you have to idle the turbo engines after driving it hard)

 

Thanks.

sduford

Just make sure you vary your speed every 15-20 mins or so if using cruise control. Even better if you don't use the cruise control at all. The main worry here is if you are at a constant RPM for extended periods of time, the engine will not properly break-in.

 

No need to idle these cars before shut-down, the engine has been designed so the turbo gets cooled automatically after shut down, so unless you drove it really hard, there is no need to worry about that.

 

Have a nice trip!

 

Sly

10years

I'd think by just driving with a light foot (keeping under 4K RPM)and NOT using cruise control would naturally inject some variability in engine response which is just what you want during break-in. No need to make any extra stops just check your fluid levels and tire pressure before starting your trip.

 

        Have Fun.

hilbert

Thanks Sly and 10 years. I am really looking forward to the trip. Since my commute to work is all city driving, I do not get much chance to use this car's great power. Now will be the chance to really enjoy it.

 

Just out of curiosity, why is this variation in speed required to break in the engine. What exactly is breaking in, as in what changes take place in engine? This is just for curiosity if someone knows and feel like replying.

sduford

Well, I'm no mechanic, but they way I understand it, at a constant RPM the wear happens all in the same area of the engine, whereas if you vary the RPM, you'll get more even wear and tear. This is important during break-in so that the rings will seat properly.

 

Perhaps someone here can provide a more scientific answer.

 

I've been told this is actually more important then not exceeding 4000RPM. In fact for my previous two cars, that was the only restriction during break-in.

 

Sly

hilbert

Thanks Sly. I know only someone with a deep knowledge of how engines are built may know this. I hope varying the RPMs from 1.5 to 3 is good.

saedave

The 2005 Passat has a 50/50 split all wheel drive and is the same as the Torsen Audi system. The 2005 Passat is the last one to be essentially a rebadged Audi.....for better or worse. The 2006 Passat will have Haldex which is about 90/10 like the Subaru 2.5i automatic models. The depreciation of the 2005 Passat can not be predicted because it is the last of its kind.

 

The Outback automatics have two different AWD systems dependent on the engine: The 2.5i has 90/10 split; the XT and 3.0R have 45/55% split and the 3.0R VDC is 45/55 plus traction control and stability control. My 3.0R VDC drives about the same as my previous W8 Passsat which had the 50/50 Torsen system with traction control and stability control.

 

Be sure you don't mind the nasty electrical reliability of the Passat!

rsholland

The Outback automatics have two different AWD systems dependent on the engine:

 

Actually here are four different Subie AWD systems. In addition to what you listed. The 5-speed manuals have a viscous coupling that defaults to a 50/50 front-to-rear-power split. In addition the STi has a driver controlled front-to-rear-power split setup.

 

BTW, the 45/55 set up that you mentioned about the VDC is on all Subie automatics equipped with VTD.

 

Bob

rsorganize

I was actually thinking about 'windnoise' the other day, after picking up my '05 VDC from the 15,000 service. About a 40 mile drive down I-91, Brattleboro VT to Conway MA. First, after driving an '04 OB (admittedly, a base model) as my 'loaner', I was sort of overwhelmed by the huge upgrades in design when I got back in my VDC. As much as I had been enjoying the car, maybe I was starting to take it for granted. But, getting back in the car for the drive home, I was reminded how good the car is. 'Windnoise'? Before, I had often thought that the car was less noisy than my '99 Volvo XC, which I really enjoyed driving. Now, after driving the loaner and with the winter tires on, not only was noise not really noticeable, but the whole driving experience was strikingly better than the XC. (Except for the seat, of course.) Surely, we all have different sensibilities and experiences when it comes to things like noise but, at least in camparison to my XC, the VDC is superior.

 

Speaking of 'superior' and 'upscale': Certainly, experience might vary, but - again - compared to the XC, the VDC certainly seems at least equal. By that measure, at least, seems to me that the VDC should qualify as 'upscale'. Sure, it would be nice to have the memory seats and one or two other things. But, it's hard to see how this car isn't as good as the current XC and for thousands less $$. Not sure that I really care about 'upscale', but in this market/vehicle segment the VDC is a great buy.

 

And, compared to previous models, seems to me to be a huge improvement. I had looked at '04 Beans and VDCs, but felt that they were quite a way from the comfort (space, design, etc.) of my '99 Volvo XC. While in terms of reliability and cost of repairs, the previous OBs compared more than favorably with the XC, in design/comfort terms it seemed to me to leave much to be desired. I didn't want to spend the money on the '04 Bean or VDC, as much as the XC was bleeding me in repair costs, because they didn't seem to measure up in design/comfort terms. Seems to me that the '05 VDC, especially, and the Bean are definitely competitive at their price-point and, favorably so, with XCs that now list for $40,000.

 

Peace.

ntk1

Had a few discussions with a local tuning company that represent Vishnu performance products (this company will be very well known to wrx owners). Vishnu are currently working on an ECU re-flash performance upgrade for the LGT as they have had a great deal of feed back regarding driveability problems with this model. They are testing the beta release at the moment and expect to have the product on sale in early spring. Apparantly , the problem with the factory ECU program is that it holds the settings in a "closed loop" mode for too long ie relying on the input from the oxygen sensor and then looking up a settings matrix. This was done for emmisions reasons but causes the stuttering in a lot of models. The fix will be to switch the control to open loop much earlier in the boost/revs build up thereby making the engine run smoother (as a bonus you will also get some extra boost pressure and probably 25-35 more ponies). The cost will be in the 700-800 range plus fitting if you do not want to fit it yourself. You will have to send your ECU to Vishnu (in SoCal), they re-program it and send it back so your car will be out of action for 3-4 days. Hope this helps - I will keep you posted

Pete

scottmd

I have approx 3000mi on my GT LTD 5 spd. Still stutters, though mostly @ cold engine temps and @ RPM's from 2000-3000 or so.

 

Scott

sliverflinger

Just got new obllb . What is the hole in the top center of dash for? It's not really designed as storage, and looks out of place in an otherwise tight design.

sduford

Yeah, I wish they had moved the whole stack up and put the storage bin below.

 

Sly