Subaru Legacy/Outback 2005+

kevin13

Not sure if you can still find 05 GT Limiteds, but I bought mine about 2 weeks ago and got $1700 under invoice. I think there was an incentive that ended June 30th, but I'm not sure.

kevin13

Well, about 2 weeks ago I took the plunge and bought a 2005 GT Legacy Limited, 5 speed. I took me months of on and off shopping to decide what to get. I test drove everything under the sun that you could get with a stick. This included the BMW 330I, Audi A3, Audi A4, Infiniti G35, Mazda RX-8, Mini, Acura TL, Boxster, Mustang GT, and Volvo S40. Ruled out the Audi's cause of the many, expensive repairs on my A4, but the Audi A3 is a nice package. It will be better when you can get a quattro with it as you can only get FWD now. Mazda RX-8's gas mileage plus litany of reported problems ruled that out, but it was probably the best mix of handling/speed for the money. Mini was fun, but too uncomformtable riding on less than perfect surfaces. It will be interesting to see if they fix that for 2006 model that is coming out. Acura TL had the best shifting and was very fast. I decided that I didn't want front wheel drive though. If you are OK with FWD, this is a great car for the money. Engine pulls and pulls. Mustang was nicer handling and riding than I expected and very fast, but small back seat and lack of trust in Ford reliability doomed that. Interior was not that great either and I certainly wasn't going to get price gouged. I did bounce down the road a time or two with solid rear axle, but it didn't make me feel as if control was lost. Volvo S40 did not feel sporty and had a poor ride. I was really disappointed in that car and can't believe anyone serious about their driving experience would get that after driving some of these other cars. So, it came down to the BMW and Infiniti. The BMW was the best car. To get everything I wanted would have been 41K. I didn't feel it was worth the extra $15K over the Subaru, though I'm sure I would have gotten much of that back eventually. The BMW had a nice engine that pulled consistently at all RPM's. It handled quite well. The interior was nice, sport seats were the best of all cars tested. Even though its not an Audi, I still worried about reliability and high cost of repairs. I ended up driving the Infiniti G35 and Subaru back to back on the same course. Despite the exceptional horsepower and torque of the G35, I felt that the power came in high on the RPM range. The manual didn't seem to take full advantage of the engine. The stick had very short throws and the clutch had a short throw (though it was tight, just as the Subaru clutch is). The G35 handled better on curves. I was able to hold my line with it at higher speeds than the Subaru. However, I liked the steering feedback on the Subaru better. I could feel the road through the steering wheel on the G35, almost like a front wheel drive car. I tested 2 G35's and had the same experience with both. The G35 also felt rougher on poor pavement. With the 4 cylinder turbo on the Subaru, you had to pay more attention to being in the right gear at the right time, but I felt the driving experience was better with the Subaru. The brakes were much better on the Infiniti, a problem that I hope Subaru addresses in the future. So, despite the cheaper price of the Subaru, I actually preferred it over the Infiniti. I've had the Subaru for a couple of days now (I had to leave it at the dealer for a while until I could get a ride over there) and am happy with my decision so far. The climate control does seem a bit inconsistent and the clutch is a little tighter than I would like. Hopefully, these problems are just adjustments from my old car. Everything else is as expected. Enjoy your shopping experience!

noted

1. What alternatives have you considered before buying an Outback? Particularly, what other cars have similar abilities on back roads/tracks?

2. How do you 2.5i owners feel about the power? Are you comfortable getting on freeways with some load? Does it go right on up the mountains with some load?

3. Owners of turbo or 6 cylinder engines, how bad is it when you use regular gas?

Thanks.

timo1745

1. I had looked at CPO'd 2001/2002 Audi Allroad, 2005 Volvo V50 AWD, CPO'd 2003 Volvo V70 Cross Country, 2005 Saab 9-2x. Became very scared of Audi/VW products after much research into their reliability #'s and customer feedback. Decided I didn't like the next-gen Haldex AWD system of the Volvos (Volvo also doesn't have great reliability ratings either). Liked the Saab 9-2x, but too much money just for a simple 'face lift' of the Subaru, also too small a car for my needs.

2. Cannot comment (I only tested the GT Limited and the XT Limited)

3. You do not use regular fuel in either the 3.0 or the 2.5 Turbo motors. Both are programmed for use with premium fuel, and you could do engine damage if you were to intentionally fill with non-premium fuel. During summer, I'm averaging between 22.8-24 MPG in NYC commuter traffic w/ A/C running almost constantly. In winter, with 16" heavy cleated/studded winter tires (and NJ's oxygenated winter fuel) I'm averaging approx 22 MPG. My "best" mileage ever was 25.6 highway.

Hope that helps!

Tim
'05 OBXTL 5MT

khallock

I have a 3.0 motor ('05 LLBean). I was told by the dealer that premium gas in NOT required. It is recommended however. The dealer told us that the Turbo required the premium fuel though.

That being said I usually put in premium fuel. Sometimes I do the middle grade (Super?). I have never put regular un-leaded in though. I dont notice a difference between the premium & super.

Kristen

oregonman

2. I had a 2002 Outback base (2.5) automatic and I just bought a 2005 Outback XT automatic because of the extra power. The base is a fine car, with enough power for most people probably, but it always felt a little underpowered to me. It downshifts a bit too much going uphill and sometimes shifts back and forth hunting for the right gear. Passing uphill is a challenge. I sometimes pull a small utility trailer (about 1000 pounds loaded) and it feels pretty strained. That said, it gets the job done. If my budget was tight, I would not have a problem keeping it or getting another base. I think that I will be much happier driving the XT and I suspect since you ask about it, you would be too.

kmclean

I purchased a 2.5i new in 2000, and have taken it on numerous mountain trips (a number of which were over 9K feet in altitude and fully loaded with people and cargo). Locally, it gets used on I-5 and I-90 (typically pretty empty with only two or so SOBs) and it's always been fine in that regard. I would point out, however, that it's a 5-speed manual; I suspect an automatic would be marginal in some situations. On true local driving (not the one-mile trip to the park & ride) it gets 22-25 mpg, and on trips 27-31 mpg (regular fuel). It's not a thrilling ride - but then again I didn't buy it for that reason (plus, in 2000, it was the only engine available). If they had a 5-speed available with the H-6 today I'd go with that, otherwise I'd take the 5-speed 2.5i and turbos for lengthy test rides to see if the turbo is really worth it for my intended use (I've owned two turbos with other vehicles and liked them a lot - and had no turbo-related problems with more than 115K on each vehicle).

Hope this helps - good luck!

Ken in sunny Seattle

kbzon

I bought my 2 week ago, i test drove the Audi Allroad, Ford freestyle and BMW X3., I got the LTD 2.5 Outback, same engine as my forester for me it has ample power.

c_hunter

Thanks for the great review -- sounds like you were a very thorough shopper.

Craig

c_hunter

After having owned several Outbacks (with all three engines too!), I still don't know of a similar non-Subaru vehicle that offer the same combination of on-road handling and off-road capability.

I have always felt the base 2.5 was fine with a 5-spd manual. if you need automatic and/or carry lots of passengers, the H6 or turbo motor is a better bet.

Right now, I have an 05 XT with the 5EAT, and it's a great vehicle. This is the first automatic transmission vehicle I have owned that I actually like a lot. the combination of the turbo motor and the fast shifting 5EAT is great.

Craig

batman702

I just got an email from the subie dealer here and his price on an 2.5gt legacy ltd, black, with auto(reg price 30,924) is now $26,824. Is there somthing going on with incentives, or are they finally trying to get rid of them to make way for the 06's? Is this about the same price most of you have paid for a similar vehicle? Just wondering if they will go down more on this or is that final? Any input is appreciated. Thanks.

alpha01

I'm not particularly impressed with our 05 Legacy Sedan 2.5i 4A's acceleration, and I would say thats just about the vehicles only strong check in the debit column. The car is very sluggish off the line, even when floored. However, highway passing is definitely acceptable, and I am more confident in doing that than getting a quick start from rest. Whenever I drive it, I am always revving past 4 grand from stoplights whether or not I shift using the manumatic feature; its simply necessary. Our 2002 157 horse Camry 4A will run circles around the Subaru (in good weather!!!) where acceleration is considered.

Still, the car manages about 24.9 MPG between oil changes (many many tankfuls), so thats something to consider, and it also feels a bit more sprightly now with 17k miles on it than when we first got it last July (cant believe its been a year already!!).

That said, the 2006 model will breathe better due to the AVLS, and even though the increase in hp is about 8 (?), it might be stronger in all rev ranges, resulting in a better feel.

Shorter answer: The car accelerates better in passing manuvers then, say, a 0-60, but its definitely only adequate with the automatic, no more, though its not any less either.

Joe

sweet_subie

yes, there is really no substitute for OB XT. others are not this agile, bulky & expensive.

It is a true crossover. offers utility, great GClearance, power, small enough to drive like a sedan, AWD, with that moonroof. there is nothing like it for 28k.

dbiker

I've been driving my '05 VDC for 6 months and I REALLY like the way it drives. It is kinda thirsty but I guess there's no free lunch.

I have a big issue with the 5 speed automatic transmission. It is very smooth in the normal drive position as well as the sport setting, which holds the shift points a little longer for faster acceleration. My problem is in the manual mode (where I can select a specific gear). The car will only allow me to shift into an appropriate gear, so as not to lug or red-line the engine. that's fine. If i am on the freeway and force the car into 5th, it works great. However as I come off an exit and the speed slows the car will shift itself down to successively lower gears as one might expect. When i come to a stop the car has shifted itself into 1st gear, and it will hold that gear regardless of my subsequent speed. The engine is so smooth and quiet that I often don't realize that I am winding up the engine. It would seem smarter to have the transmission shift itself back into automatic/sport if the car comes coasting toward a stop while in the manual mode.

There was a recall that was supposed to affect this problem. I had the computer flashed with a new setting which would prevent red-lining somehow, but it does not seem to have fixed the problem. And a side issue has occurrred. The transmission now has very little ability to brake the car in a steep downhill situation, forcing me to lean on the brakes, with overheating rotor possibilities. Even when the manual shifter is set at "1", the car is pretty much frreewheeling. This did not happen before the flash was done.

Has anyone else notice this? Is there someone at Subaru i can discuss this with? I can take it back to the dealer, but I'm pretty sure they cannot program the computer themselves. Can I have the factory setting back?

Anxiously, DB

twrx

I have a 2.5i 4eat Legacy wagon. I am very happy with the power (and I traded a WRX in on it). I just got back from Colorado a couple of weeks ago and the car was over several 12,000 ft. mountain passes. If you use your RPMs well you can do anything you need to do with this car. The full manual mode is nice for passing and climbing. I would like another gear so that the second gear would not be so high. That would be helpful for going down the passes. Having said that, this is the first time I have been to Colorado with an automatic transmission. (I have been vacationing there or somewhere else out west nearly every year since 1981) The manual mode is the next best thing for mountain driving. No burnt brakes (ever been over either the Monarch or Hoosier passes?) Best of all with the 2.5 engine I averaged 30 mpg for the 3700 mile trip.

subaruqueen

Perhaps I am misunderstanding you, but it seems you are not using the manual mode correctly. The sportshift system is designed to shift back down to first when you come to a stop, but it's up to you to shift back up through the gears...hence the term, manual mode. If you don't care to shift back up, then put it in drive or sport mode. Please read your owner's manual on how to use the Sportshift system and/or consult your salesperson as somebody may not have been clear with you. I hope this helps.

kyfdx

So... what happens when you get up to redline in the manual mode? Does a rev-limiter kick in? Do you just keep bouncing off the redline, until you manually shift up?

If so, that is a great "manu-matic" system.. On our BMW, the car automatically upshifts when you get to redline in manual mode (what is manual about that?)... I hate that..

regards,
kyfdx

c_hunter

Either the reflash messed something up, or I am misunderstanding you.

In normal or sport mode, the car should do all shifting and automatically select the right gears.

If you happen to shift in the +/- gate, manual mode is invoked. At that point, the only thing it does automatically is drop into "1" when you come to a stop. Otherwise, it is full manual and you have to do the shifting.

Rule of thumb -- if you see the gear digits on the dashboard, then you are in full manual mode (this does not apply to XT and GT models with the steering wheel buttons -- they also have a temporary manual mode).

So basically, if you have done any manual shifting in a VDC you are in manual mode from that point on. You'd have to flip the lever to the right to reset back to auto mode.

Craig

rsholland

I see FitzMall has several '06 Legacys and Outbacks listed in their inventory. Hmmm... another reason to put some more miles on my Tribeca loaner today.

Bob

ateixeira

Check out if the NAV system is the same as the one in the Tribeca. Is the screen the same size?

-juice

nmgridl

I think the response that the 2006 2.5i engine will have AVLS is a key here. That is called Variable Valve by others such as Toyota. From what I've read, it will give you about 5% more HP, 5% better gas mileage, and 5% less emissions. In test driving a '05 2.5i, I've decided to hold off until the '06's become available.

kens

dbiker,

As you correctly pointed out, the reflash for the H6 models allows the transmission to upshift before hitting the rev limiter. The turbo models will bounce off the rev limiter all day in manual mode.

From your description, it appears as though manual mode is working normally. In manual mode, the driver is able to select a gear that will not harm the engine or transmission (as indicated by the red arrows next to the gear position indicator). If the TCU senses a conflict (ie. redlining or lugging) it will chose a more appropriate gear. From my perspective, it makes sense that the transmission stays in 1st gear in manual mode even after you've started again. After all, in manual mode, the driver should be both up and downshifting into the appropriate gear.

Regarding the engine braking, perhaps the reflash caused the TCU to also lose it's adaptive learning? Give it a few hundred miles to see if the transmission re-learns your driving style. Also, "Sport" auto mode results in more agressive engine breaking and shift points -- have you tried this mode?

Ken

dbiker

Ken-

What I mostly use the manual option for is to hold the car in 5th gear while driving at highway speeds. The ratios on this transmission are designed such that the car repeatedly shifts up to 4th and back to 5th on a modest grade when it appears to me that the engine has plenty of power to remain in 5th. This manual approach seems to work fine, except that after a couple of hours of cruising on the freeway, if I exit, or otherwise slow down, the transmission secretly shifts into successively lower gears, without any evidence that this has happened (except the indicator # below the tach, on which I never focus). In a real manual shift car, the cue comes from the engine, or from the response of the clutch. Maybe an audible tone that the car is shifting down to lower gears would help remind me that the manual shifter is downshifting for me.

As for engine braking...I had the flash done about 4000 miles ago. If it actually learns my driving style, that should have happened by now. I had vaguely noticed the problem on normal roads, but last weekend I was alerted to it while driving down a very steep (10%) mountain (dirt) road. In this situation, neither normal automatic nor sport shift would not do anything to control speed. In manual mode, only gear 1 seemed to have any effect at all, and its effect could only be called modest. If I were to drive these kind of roads with any regularity, the brakes would get very hot and perhaps be compromised.

DB

kens

DB,

I think our 5EAT transmissions are just too smooth!

On a serious note, if the downshifts are imperceptible, then why bother manually keeping it in 5th? Why not just let the transmission do what it wants to?

The only time I use manual mode is if I'm doing a canyon run (mostly 34 shifts), going down a long hill or if I'm in bumper-bumper traffic. Most of the time, I just leave it in Sport auto mode.

You're right, the TCU should have learned by 4000 miles. I don't know what to say other than to bring it up with the dealer. I'm not sure how a reflash could affect engine braking since it would not affect the gear ratios.

As for the brakes, you could consider swapping out to GT rotors and pads when the time's due. The larger GT brakes along with vented rears have shown to be quite fade resistant in road tests.

Ken

dbiker

Ken-

One of the big reasons people don't like automatic transmissions is the fact that under some engine load and gradient combinations, one finds oneself right at the shift point and the car (annoyingly) shifts repeatedly back and forth...back and forth. The fifth gear in the 5EAT is very high (which I like) but it is a little touchy...almost like it prefers to be in 4th. The downshift/upshift between 4 and 5 is definitely noticable and that is why I use 5 manual.

The imperceptible shifts happen when the car is in a manual gaer (say 5) and the speed goes down below an acceptable speed for that gear. it shifts from 5 to 4 to 3 to 2 to 1 and there is no feedback that it is doing it. It ends up in the correct gear, but since it is in manual mode it will hold that one gear until I manually shift. It is especially dire when I come rolling to a stop at the end of an exit ramp, forgetting that I'm in manual mode and not noticing that the car has put itself in gear 1.

As for the engine braking, it feels like, even though the indicator says gear 1, it feels like gear 2. The brakes work fine...I just have to use them more than I'd like on a long, very steep grade.

DB

DB

c_hunter

Are you sure what you perceive as a 5-4 downshift on the highway isn't just the torque converter?

In any event, if it downshifts gently on a mild hill, then it is doing it to prevent the engine from lugging. If you force it to stay in 5, then either you will be lugging the engine or the torque converter will unlock and you'll get slippage in the TC which heats up the transmission fluid and ultimately wastes gas.

After reading your description, I realize that the transmission is working fine. When you manually put it into 5, you have entered full manual mode where you have to do the upshifting and downshifting. In this mode, if you get off the highway and do nothing, the transmission will only downshift as needed to prevent the engine from lugging. Meaning, it will downshift lazily and at the last possible minute (no engine braking or predictive downshifts as you get in normal and sport modes). You will feel like you are coasting with no power. As you come to a stop, it will shift into 1 automatically. From that point on, you have to be in control of the upshifts, because the transmission won't do it unless you hit the rev limiter. So I'd say it is working normally.

If you still feel the need to put it in 5 on the highway, then either follow up with manual shifting afterwards, or flip the lever back into normal or sport mode after getting off the highway.

Craig

c_hunter

As for engine braking...I had the flash done about 4000 miles ago. If it actually learns my driving style, that should have happened by now. I had vaguely noticed the problem on normal roads, but last weekend I was alerted to it while driving down a very steep (10%) mountain (dirt) road. In this situation, neither normal automatic nor sport shift would not do anything to control speed. In manual mode, only gear 1 seemed to have any effect at all, and its effect could only be called modest. If I were to drive these kind of roads with any regularity, the brakes would get very hot and perhaps be compromised.

You should not expect engine braking on a steep/slow downhill in anything other than gear 1. In normal/sport, the transmission quickly upshifts into 2 even when going down a steep hill. You would need to manually put it in 1 to stay in 1 and get engine braking at low speeds. You can experiment with this by putting it in manual mode and trying different gears as you go down the hill (or look inthe owners manual where it gives speed ranges for each gear). If it's like any of the offroad situations I have been in (with a variety of cars and transmissions, some manual, some auto) then 1 will be the appropriate gear. This is common when offroading. Some expensive SUVs have a crawl mode which puts the transmission in 1 and pulses the brakes to maintain speed automatically. The rest of us need to do it manually.

I guess the bottom line -- realize that an auto transmission has a slipping fluid coupling between the engine and the wheels. You cannot get true engine braking unless the torque converter locks up, and that only happens in higher gears. What allows us to remain in gear when at a stop also prevents us from getting direct engine braking. That's the ultimate problem.

Craig

noted

Thanks for all your responses. Too bad you didn't all agree . But thanks. I'll try do do some serious test driving.

dbiker

Craig-

I have noticed that each gear seems to have 2 speeds, so it is interesting to know that is due to the locking/unlocking of the torque converter. I guess you are saying that I am better off in gear4 with the TC locked, than in gear5 and the TC unlocked. I have been driving it as I ride my bike (which has half-step gearing), but there is clearly more to think about in a car. Is it inadvisable to drive in manual5 if it requires the TC to unlock?

DB

dbiker

As for engine braking...

---You should not expect engine braking on a steep/slow downhill in anything other than gear 1.

This is what I experience.

However, before the comuter was re-flashed, I had excellent engine braking in gear1 and gear2 had some modest braking capability (somewhat akin the what I now get while in gear1). Since the reason for the recall notice was to address issues about redlining the engine in manual gear 1, is it possible that the fix to that issue has undone one of the main reasons to put the car in manual gear1?

If it is not possible to get this problem solved, can I get the computer un-flashed (ie, set the shifting firmware back to the way it was at delivery)?

DB

jeffmc

http://www.autoweek.com/news.cms?newsId=102799

ateixeira

Offer performance and people buy it up. Mostly younger males.

-juice

robr2

Offer performance and people buy it up. Mostly younger males.

Which can only mean coffee cans, neon lights, and big wings on Legacies.

jeffmc

coffee cans, neon lights, and big wings on Legacies
Hey, it's not my style either, but if it brings Subaru more customers I think it's great. Plus these are folks in their formative years, so good experience could bring future sense of ingrained loyalty.
If you're into the import mod scene, the travelling show Hot Import Nights and Road & Track have a sweepstakes to win a Legacy GT Limited sedan modified by Road & Track.

ateixeira

They exist for every brand, even European. I don't see a way to avoid it.

At least it's better than a faux convertible vinyl top! :P

-juice

alpha01

That was a really interesting article, thanks for the link. To me, it basically spells out why Subaru has stopped offering basic trim versions of the Forester XT and Legacy GT for '06.... the customers are after the 250 horses (in the Legacy's case), and if theres an opportunity to move them into higher profit margin, more heavily equipped vehicles, then why not do it? Reducing variability in production configurations might incrementally improve build quality, I suppose... as well.

Joe

c_hunter

I believe the 5EAT can lock the TC in 3,4,5 so that probably explains your obserservation. Most other auto transmissions only lock in the top gear. So you definitely may feel what seems like extra shift points (up and down) in the higher gears. Normally, there is a very small RPM change associated with the TC (it drops a smidge when locking) as opposed to the larger RPM changes associated with a gear change.

I have a feeling the TC unlocks if you keep it in 5th and the car really wants to be in 4th -- that would be the only way to avoid lugging the engine. In that case, it will definitely heat up the trans fluid (potential wear and tear) and waste energy (lower gas mileage). Generally, variable gearing helps you keep the engine in its sweet spot, so you may be better off letting it do what it wants. So yeah, I think you'd better off in 4 (regardless of the TC) if you hit a hill or your speed drops.

Craig

fj60

Just under 9K on my GT Lmt wagon and still impressed with the car. My only disappointment is the inability of the AC to get sufficiently cold (at least for me) when the outside temp hits triple digits. My wife's '03 Passat and my '85 Landcruiser have no problem cooling the interior to my liking. This in itself would not prevent me from recommending a GT to anyone currently shopping for a car.

FJ60

c_hunter

What settings are you using on the AC??

If set to AUTO and 65, it will seriously blast out the cold (that is max cool). I normally leave it on auto and 72-75F. We have been having temps in the high 90s and heat indices up to 110F, and I haven't had any complaints about the AC in my OB XT. I also have a black interior, which doesn't help!

Craig

fj60

Craig -

I turn off the AC, then turn it back on again on manual 65 at the highest fan setting. I read on earlier posts that this will put the AC on full manual mode -- I don't care for the auto setting. I'll have the dealer check the HVAC during my next oil change.

FJ60

rob_m

I have to agree with fj on this.

I am not so impressed with the A/C on my GT, either. Yesterday was 91 degrees. I had it on MAX A/C - 65 AUTO, and it was well over a half hour before the car started to get cooled off.

I drove the dw's 03 Outback last weekend, and really noticed the huge performance difference in the A/C. 90+ degrees and high humidity. I had the car cooled down in 5 minutes.

FWIW, it is a known fact that the ACC is a PITA, but I have no regrets buying (or recommending) this car. Rob M.

dbiker

Include me in the list of people who are puzzled by the operation of the AC.

It seems that some settings add heat to the airflow, even if the A/C is on. Has anyone actually documented what all is happening.

DB

rob_m

Our friend Craig has done an excellent job of documenting the operation of Auto, Semi-Auto and Manual modes in another forum which specializes in Legacy GT. Rob M.

dbiker

I'm having difficulty finding the mentioned document from Craig. Could you specify which forum you are referring to and a search keyword that will find it..., or even better could someone post a copy of it here. Thanks. DB

c_hunter

I turn off the AC, then turn it back on again on manual 65 at the highest fan setting. I read on earlier posts that this will put the AC on full manual mode -- I don't care for the auto setting. I'll have the dealer check the HVAC during my next oil change.

You probably already know this, but max AC also requires the vent be set to recirculate. I don't recall if that is the default when starting from manual. Whatever AUTO+65 does, that is the max it can do, so if you were replicating that with manual and it was too hot, then maybe something is wrong.

Really the only thing that hurts cooldown in my OB XT is the black leather seats -- they keep the body warm for quite a while even after the interior air has cooled. But having a gold car (compared to dark green on my previous Outback) seems to help somewhat in the overall process -- I imagine the car is cooler to begin with. One of these days I need to tint the back windows....

Craig

fj60

The default for manual is recirculate. I have 20% tint on my rear windows, but I had it done before it got hot so I'm unsure whether the difference in cooling is dramatic. I wanted to go darker than 20%, but the next level was 5% and that was too dark.

FJ60

kens

FJ,

While I agree that the ACC unit logic and interface is clearly not the best, I've found the AC cooling to be very good on my 05 LGT wagon. On hot summer days out here in California, I've been impressed at how quickly the unit is able to send cool air into the cabin along with the fan speed.

I wonder if your AC unit is low on coolant. It might be worth having it checked by the dealer next time.

Ken

c_hunter

For a reference, it took about 20 minutes for my car to get totally comfortable today, after sitting outside all day in 100F heat. I had it on auto/73F. It ran fan=5 for about 15 minutes, and then dropped down to fan=4 for the rest of my 40 minute commute.

Craig

ssminton

Let's just all agree here and now... the Subaru Climate control system sucks! We may have all developed our personal work-arounds, but it still doesn't work well. After numerous vehicles over the past 10 years with automatic climate control, I can honestly say that the Subaru is significantly below the standard of any other system that I have personally experienced. You would think that Subaru would have gotten in right on the Tribecca, but it appears (through a test drive) to have the same problems... Note to Subaru... maybe you should use your GM partnership for some help on this one!

It's all ok though, I still love my 2005 Outback VDC!

kkajino

I'm sorry to butt in on your thread, but I have had a string of A/C problems since last year, and I didn't know where else to post. I have a 2000 Outback. in 04, the AC started blowing hot air, so I took it to the dealer, who found some leaks. They replaced some lines and got the AC working again.

A few weeks ago, the AC became weak again, so I took it to a repair shop, who found that the compressor and condensor were both leaking. The parts together cost $1100.

That got me curious. What causes such component failures? were the two incidents related? Did the first cause the second?

The second shop told me that a leak in the circuit can cause premature wear that was not apparent at the time of the first incident.