2013 and earlier-Acura TL Prices Paid and Buying Experience

tonyg24

to the knowledged people...2500 down...479 a month for 42 months...with navigation...is that a good deal?

tonyg24

the above also includes taxes..all i would have to pay is for the registration..changing over plates
automatic....
have to get them to throw in all weather matts
also with 12k a year

03oddity

My only credential for lease expertise is having leased 4 cars over the last few years. There is a Leasing board on edmunds.com that can be a huge help to you. But here's a preview.

To determine whether a lease is a "good deal" requires that you analyze some specific info:

--capitalized cost (final negotiated selling price of car)
--money factor (related to interest rate, just multiply by 2.4)
--residual (pre-determined value of car at end of lease as a percentage of MSRP)
--term of lease
--allowed mileage and the penalty for exceeding it
--any included maintenance
--taxes, DMV, add-ons (like bank fee, disposition fee)
--early termination fees
--any other potential liability such as excess wear and tear

"Down payment" is a term that dealers use wrongly; remember, you're renting. What you should be discussing is "drive-offs" (the check you have to write to get the car out the door). Typical drive-offs include security deposit, bank fee, first month's payment and DMV fees. Another misleading use for the term "down payment" is a capitalized cost reduction (CCR). A CCR reduces the financed price of the car and thus MAY reduce the monthly payment, but in my opinion is like lighting hundred-dollar bills on fire.

Don't EVER let a dealer negotiate with you on monthly payments alone. The payment is a mathematical function of all that other stuff I mentioned.

Bottom line: don't lease a TL or any car unless you know exactly what you're getting into. Off the top of my head, $2500 plus $479 a month to rent a $33K car for three and a half years is steep. I calculate that you'd spend $22,618 for the privilege. Why not just buy it?

OK, lease experts, how'd I do? ;-)

dulnev

Both your examples were of older cheaper cars. I tried listing my previous two cars (both less than 3 years old) on cars.com and autoweb.com. Got ZERO, I repear ZERO inquiries from those postings. And they were only for $500-900 more than what dealer offered me for trading the cars in!

acuraadmirer

I purchased my nonNavi Anth/Ebony, TL from Baranco on Thursday. Was very happy with the internet manager that I dealt with. I want to thank everyone for their help in getting by price.

woozer

Here are the specifics for my deal:
$30,950.00 = cost
  2,557.09 = tax
    256.00 = license
     45.00 = tire fee
$33,813.09 = total
Hope this helps.

woozer

Tustin did not quote me that price. I ssked Tustin to match the $30,950 price that I found on this forum. They agreed to do so.

lobito17

Oddity -- I am hardly a leasing expert, but you are dead on. Tonyg24 -- I posted a few days ago the terms of the TL lease I negotiated, which were substantially better than what you are being offered. My lease was also 42 months, but I got 15k miles, drive off price (what I believe you are calling down payment) of $1300, and monthly payments, tax included, of $456.

A couple of tips:

As oddity said, go deep into the Edmunds leasing information -- it's invaluable. Carman (host of leasing forum) will get you the current money factors and residual values for the TL. You NEED these before you can even think about negotiating a lease.

The leasing variables are pretty complex -- there are just too many moving parts for even a highly intelligent and capable buyer to manage, especially in the pressure of the showroom. As I posted earlier, get yourself a copy of the Executive Lease Pro software (download is $70), and, if possible, load it on a laptop to take with you to the dealer. It will put you on a completely even playing field with the F&I manager and pay for itself many times over. Even if you don't go this route, make sure that you understand EVERY line item that is going into your lease. The dealers love to combine concepts so they can hide where they are making money. Biggest examples include inflating the money factor (interest rate), and adding in various fees (doc fees, marketing support charges, etc.) which sound legit, but are merely profit generators.

Good luck to you.

igiban

But didn't you get a same quote from a dealer too? That one is too far? Did you just verbally tell Tustin that you saw such a 'record' on Edmunds and they took it w/o 'verification'?

scott31

I have a spreadsheet that I created a few years ago, and when it comes time for final haggling on price, I always bring my laptop to the dealership.

tonyg24

Well this is the run down...this is my first lease/finance car...my situation is this..ACURA does not lease to people in NY...something to do with citibank not allowing it...so they have some new program which is like a lease with baloon payment...you u are suppose to pay all taxes upfront for the car and the car is under your name rather than the banks name...plusses are if u want to get out of lease early u can put remaining balance that u owe on lease towards a new acura...or u also have the option to buy out the car at the end of the 42 month..whatever is still owed...The guy first wanted to rip me a new one..he wanted my 96 maxima...GLE with 80k miles and 2500, it would of been 519 a month for 42 months..12 thousand miles a year...i was like..u crazy!

so after throwing him around the shop a bit the deal was settled at 12k miles...2500 out of pocket...479 a month for 42 months...and i got the metallic TL with navigation..only thing i have to pay extra is registration..i signed the sheet with that info on it..and gave the deposit...i do not have the car yet...still hasnt came in...i am trying to sell my maxima now but if i dont u think they will renogiate something again with trade in...? all this stuff is crazy to figure out..i can imagine how bad it will be when i get a house down the road...i am 25 yrs old..any advice on this will be greatly appreciated...i have to see if they can throw in like 5 free oil changes and all weather matts

woozer

Just told Tustin that I had that quote. Did not get another one, but did have some close to it. Got Tustin to commit by email b/4 I went down there.

tonyg24

it seems u are paying 19996...i am paying 22618...after 42 months...the only differences i see is that i live in ny were the taxes are 8.25 and i am getting navigation...but u got 15 thousand miles a yr compared to my 12...so i dont think i got ripped that bad..being i got navigation and my taxes are higher..but who knows i am new at this : /

kevin111

If you think you might drive more than the 12K a year, keep the Max. Can use the Max as an extra car / beater (for driving to the train station, or leaving it in parking lots for long periods of time).

Either way, congratulations on your purchase! Great car!

boneyardjelly

Thanks to all here, including Edmunds.com, for providing the info to help me choose and buy my TL.

I just signed for a Silver/Ebony, auto, non-nav. Got it for $31,400 + tax and license. The only add-on was Lo-Jack for $595. It's due in on 2/10 and I have the right of refusal if I don't like it.

I bought from Niello Acura in Sacramento. They called my after swapping a couple of emails. They asked what it would take to close the deal. I mentioned that I knew someone (Woozer) who got under $31,000 in Tustin and that Pleasanton Acura had offered me $31,500. Niello offered $31,400 including protection package. I signed today.

nyshappy

Tony,

What dealer/area of NY did you get that lease from?
thanks,
Marc

msf2

Has anyone out there ever done a cash deal on a car, or know someone who has? Is there ANY advantage to a buyer who offers cash? Is that a wise way to buy a car? I wondered if dealers are more willing to deal with a person who pay's cash.

dulnev

Where pricing is concerned, there is only a DISADVANTAGE to using cash. That's because financing is a cash-cow for dealerships and you can usually get a better discount, if you finance through them.

As far as what's wise, that's entirely your personal financial choice. Would you dump a bunch of cash into your car and avoid paying 4% interest, or would you rather have the money available for something else like home improvement, vacation or even investement.

Stock market returned 20-30% last year. Investing is risky, but it may be something someone would prefer over putting the cash in the car.

kevin111

is a good way to go. Get the tax write-off, and no pre-payment penalties and flexible payment schedules.

igiban

for dealers only if you do it thru them. Whenever you finance you end up paying more with interests. Of course you can invest the otherwsie cash in stocks to make a killing last year, or to to be killed b4 last year!

lobito17

I think your deal is a good one, especially given the fact that you got the navi (which is 2,000 more). I didn't catch that tidbit in your initial post.

Also, the NY deal is a completely strange concept, which doesn't lend itself to apples to apples comparison. (I think it it is due to liability laws in NY which can make the owner of a car (which under normal leases is the leasing company) liable for damages caused by the vehicle.)

In any event, you are definitely within the "good deal" ball park, so have fun. BTW, buying a house is significantly easier than buying or leasing a car, in the sense that the person you are buying from is not trying to artificially inflate the negotiated price, and you tend to have experienced advisors (broker, attorney, etc.) helping you out.

lobito17

Anytime you are a cash buyer, you are in the driver's seat negotiating the deal. From a getting a deal standpoint, it is actually preferable. Go into any dealer at the end of the month with a checkbook and you will see this in action.

As indicated in an earlier post, just because you are paying the dealer with cash, doesn't mean that you can't finance the car either before or after you buy it. In other words, what looks like cash to the dealer can be someone else's cash rather than yours.

The only analysis that is relevant is the opportunity cost of your money. If you can do better with your capital (cash in this case) than you will pay in interest on a financed basis, then finance. If not, and you can afford the outlay from a cash-flow perspective (i.e., if you will still have enough liquidity to be able to pay your mortgage, go out to dinner and buy your kids a new toy) pay cash.

The use of a home equity line can be particularly beneficial, as previously noted.

kfhmail

Paying cash for a car is the same as getting a loan from another source (bank etc.)and giving the dealer a check...as far as the dealer is concerned.

A check from you or a check from the bank is the same as cash to the dealer.

Now if you get a loan from the dealer/manufacturer that is different. (They may make money off this type of loan/transaction).

So bottom line...there is no plus or minus, when dealing with a dealership, between paying cash or presenting a check (from a loan with a bank).

dulnev

I would recommend against using HELOC for the purpose of buying a car. These days fixed rates for auto loans are very low and subsidized deals (like 3.69 for 5 years I got on my TL) are extremelly common. Yes, you can do better with HELOC after tax deduction, but HELOC rates are variable and can go as high as 6% or more during the 5 years a typical loan lasts.

Also, if you charge the car to HELOC, you have to have the financial discipline to pay a certain amount every month to pay off the loan in a reasonable amount of time. HELOCs allow you to just pay interest every month and nothing towards principal.

brew99

Wondering if anyone has any new feedback on prices from Cdn acura dealers?? Looks like my purchase plans have been accelerated as my A4 was just rear ended and is being written off.....

kahunah

Very sorry to hear about your mishap. Hope you're ok though. Unfortunately, many people in this town don't have a clue about driving in winter conditions, and this winter has been particularly bad.

I heard encouraging news this morning on the radio about the auto insurance industry seriously considering giving discounts to those drivers who use winter tires...great idea that's long overdue. My TL has the Dunlop Winter Sport M2s and they are amazing in this weather.

Anyway, good luck with your next car.

adman17

My local dealer (here in So. Cal) seems not all interested in budging from MSRP for Auto/Nav TL. In fact, he wants to charge an additional 500 for the protection package. I have no problem with letting the dealer make some money on the car, but it seems to me that they're doing just fine by selling the car at sticker, and should throw in the protection package (which if I understand correctly, is already installed on the car as delivered.) I know it's a supply and demand thing, but I was curious as to what others have encountered. I know it's somewhat silly being willing to spend 35,195 but balking at 35,695. Any thoughts?

k_chui

carsdirect quoting $600 off MSRP for So. Cal. Why not give them a try. Also use their pricing to see if other dealers will go lower.

Good luck.

kevin111

"Also, if you charge the car to HELOC, you have to have the financial discipline to pay a certain amount every month to pay off the loan in a reasonable amount of time. HELOCs allow you to just pay interest every month and nothing towards principal. "

- Bought a car partially from HELOC, and it has been very beneficial to me. The first couple of months, I had very little cash to make payments due to stretching what I had in liquid assest to pay for the car, and I had just bought a home right before hand. Why I bought a car right after I bought a house, car trouble :-( . So was able to just pay interest the first couple of months. Then set up an auto-deduction/payment plan with the Financial institute to pay a specific amount each month, which I have gradually increased over the couple of years I have owned the car and as my financial situation has improved.

I have also been able to make payments towards the HELOC whenever I have had free cash. As a result, it will be paid off this year, with the tax breaks.

In other words, HELOC was definitely the right choice for me.

pmf13

Sorry to hear about the mishap brew. I've been chasing down a couple of options and the best I can find is about $1000 off the auto with or without Navi and $1500 off the manual. Feel free to email me if you want some details.

Peter

bodble2

what part of the country are you in? I've been verbally quoted about $500 - 700 off for the auto with or without Nav.

pmf13

I'm in the Greater Toronto area.

soljc

I got 2 internet quotes ($31,229 and $31,569)from dealers in the White Plains, NY area. Both quotes were for the 6spd, no NAV, no HPT. I'm expecting to get the car for no more than $31,000.

bodble2

There are only about 3, maybe 4, Acura dealers in all of Greater Vancouver, so I think the buyer may have more leverage in TO.

kahunah

...you're dealing with car salesmen! When you pay MSRP and 1/3 down, well guess what? They're going to take more advantage of you by making you wait. The salesman's made his commission and the dealership's made its profit. I bet if you only gave them $500 down, you'd be driving your car buy now.

david831

No one is dealing on NAV veh's in Calif. There are simply no cars. This wasn't just a deposit but actual purchase so 1/3 of down isn't really the issue. I had $500 deposits with other dealers and I am not driving those cars. Besides that wasn't the issue. Otherwise you are right about car salesmen...tell em something I don't know

kahunah

Hope you get your car soon, David.

mike712

I just bought a new silver/ebony 6MT TL Non-Nav from a Maryland Dealer last week. I think the reason I got the deal I did was because of the bad weather we have encountered and it being the end of the month. I was able to do a "cash" deal for $2500 under MSRP plus %5 sales taxes and actual MVA fee.
$30,695
$1534.75 (MD sales tax)
$146 Tax, Title & Registration fee.
$32,375.75

mike712

...I had the dealer throw in the mud flaps, wheel locks, and trunk tray.

rvmeush

Hey mike712, I just starting looking for a TL in Maryland. Can you point me in the direction of your dealer and salesman?

igiban

and maybe with ebony inside the most popular combo for TL? It sure appears that way from the reported buys here. Is it related to inventory or simply a more popular color combo for TL?

mike712

I dealt directly with the Sales manager at Criswell Acura in Annapolis. Worked out all the details on the phone, was in and out of there in less than an hour. Really good experience.

brew99

I am also in the GTA and was out yesterday and took a spin in the 6MT. Lots of fun but for practical reasons (including my wife), will probably need to go with with the AT. Not having checked in on a dealer in a little while, I was somewhat surprised to see that they actually had inventory that was not spoken for and that availability including the NAVI did not appear to be a major issue. I did not get down to specific price dealing but they definitely indicated that they were willing to discount (which was not the case a few months ago). Very interested to hear that you are getting the same discount on the base as well as the NAVI. I'd like to drop you and email to find out more but do not see your email in your profile.

Bobble - their inventory of '03's was almost gone, so perhaps your resale value will improve....:)

coolcar3

About 3 weeks back, got a new Silver/Ebony Auto Non-Nav WITH the prot package from a Columbus, Ohio area dealer for $30,900 + Tax + $25.00 (Title). Had to drive 38 miles out, but worth it since I negotiated the price over the phone and all the paperwork was ready by the time I got to the dealer. Definitely my best car buying experience so far.

bodble2

brew99, I sure hope so!

mason11

I just brought a Silver TL with Navi at $35195 MSRP and the protection package is included (no extra charge) in Downey Acura, CA. This is the only dealer I found not charging extra for the protection package.
Good luck!

1hopeck

can u share with me which dealer in the columbus area? I am in the same area and looking also.
Thanks........

pat

but if you want someone to have your email address, the safest thing to do is make it public in your profile. The spam bots can't get it from there, but they can get it from these web pages.

Just a suggestion.

brew99

Pat,

You could remove pmf13's post with his email address in it to minimize the chance of spam. I just picked it up and will email him.

Thx!
Brew99

pat

All posters have the option of removing their own messages, so I'll let him decide whether to leave it or not.