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Anoyone else feel free to chime in here!
i went with the contiextremes which are probably the best tires i've had in the past 6 years. they are excellent in the snow and very quiet on dry. they just cost $20 more - when the contis run their course, i'd probably go with the falkens on the strength of the reviews and cost.
They are #1 rated performance tires by Consumer Reports.
I bought my Odyssey minivan in Miami (the only dealer in the whole country who had one in 1999), even though I lived in Chicago.
Think about it -- people move all the time after they have purchased or leased cars.
Good luck to you.
AT, non-nav, basic, anthrocite/ebony
36 mo/15,000 miles
$700 total down
$485/month
Let me know your thoughts on payments....
I think they could have been lower, but the wife was eager to get this car....
$700 was for 1st month, initial title fees, upfront sales tax and capitalized cost reduction
negotiated vehicle price to $30,600 (although adjusted capitalized cost is showing $32,347.60?)
I thought the money factory was quoted at .0022
residual value $19,253.10 (would be 63% based on $30,600...60% based on $32,347.60)
First time leasing, so not sure about all the numbers...
Comments would be appreciated. At this point, I love the car, so I'm not going to complain, although I still feel the monthly payments are high...could be $15-20/month lower. Maybe I should have signed the lease papers, and reviewed first, instead of the wife...
"Generally car dealerships have a reputation for suspect treatment of taxes and the remittance of the same. This reputation is further fuelled by the large number of court cases involving fraud in the industry."
my thoughts:
#1. officially, American HONDA finance corp (AHFC)'s residual moneyfactor and residual are .00215 and 58% respectively for non-navi 36month 15K lease. The dealer can mark it up (i.e increase the MF and/or decrease the residual) to make more money. The residual numbers you provide however, make little sense (60-63%).
#2. The $700 upfront doesn't cover much - your 1st month's payment is already $485, that leaves $215 for the other incidental costs you mentioned. this indicates that the security deposit equal to one month's lease has been 'waived'. Did the dealer say that AHFC is running a promotion to waive that security deposit? While just conjecture at this point, the low upfront payment makes me think that the dealer rolled some additional dough into your monthly payments.
#3. As mentioned in #1, i believe the numbers you provide don't make sense but if I were to use your 'negotiated' price and standard AHFC lease #s to calculate the lease, you would be paying more than you should.
Assume you bought for $30,600 with residual of 58% and MF of .00215, your monthly payment should be: $423 before tax. your total payment should be $423 x 1.0xxx (xxx = your tax rate - what is it btw?).
From a rough calculation, i think your dealer _actually_ sold you the vehicle for $32,347.60 rather than $30,600. This is more in line with a $485 payment.
The TL may be a great car and worth that extra cost but the fact of the matter is that your dealer might have pulled a fast one on you. I consider this fraud and it's something to fight. Of course, this is all predicated on my lousy math being right but from my experience looking at cars to lease in the 30K range, you should be paying closer to $400 rather than $500 per month.
I would be kicking and screaming at the dealer's door bright and early tomorrow.
Btw, why is it so many are asking post-facto if they got a great deal - sounds like upside-down logic to me.
So, I think the $1750 difference between sale price and cap cost is for the acquisition fee and the sales tax. Running the numbers with the given cap cost, residual and money factor hits your payment almost exactly, so the additional cap cost is the only place to put those two items.
Looks like to me you got a 3 year lease for nothing down and $485/mo tax included. Seems like a very good deal and that the actual sales price was $30,600, or about $2500 off MSRP.
regards,
kyfdx
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I agree: At $700 upfront, that only leaves $215 for title work, plates, registration, etc. The acquisition fee ($550 or $595, I'm not sure) and the sales tax have to be added onto the sale price to get the cap cost.
I think a good deal all the way around. Since the dealer seems honest to me, you could go back and ask him to break it down for you.
regards,
kyfdx
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Nevertheless, i think i learned something new about leases and sales tax today. how does this tax in ohio work with regards to doing the calculations for the lease. i.e. if you were to do the same lease in KY (assuming same interest rate), you would be paying $30-$40 more just for the privilege of leasing?
(My apology to our US friends who would have zero interest in this topic)
When a car dealer acquires a used car (by trade-in or otherwise) there is supposedly a notional input tax credit on whatever they pay for the car. (So, for example, if they give you $20,000 for your car, $1308 of that is inputed ITC). And when they turn around and sell that car, they can offset that $1308 against whatever GST they collect on the sale. So that $1308 in reality is pure profit for them.
So, in the situation of a trade-in transaction, my thinking was that if they have to remit GST based on the full price of the new car they sell you, then the above ITC freebie is offset by the additional GST on the new car. But if they remit only the actually amount collected from you, then they reap the benefit from the imputed ITC on the car taken in on trade.
The tax is paid for upfront in Ohio, in the dealership's county it's 8%...so I did roll that into the payments to avoid a larger down payment.
In Ohio, the tax has to be paid to register the car, just as if you were purchasing it. You can either pay it up front, or the leasing company pays it up front, and adds it into your cap cost.
It works out almost exactly the same, assuming the tax rates are the same. I think the drawback to the Ohio way of doing things, is if you end your lease early for whatever reason, that tax has already been paid, and is lost. In Kentucky, no tax is paid ahead of the payment.
Obsidian... they must have a local sales tax in your county. Isn't Ohio's sales tax 7%?
regards,
kyfdx
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Was that TL you leased from Rallye, a NAV or non NAV? was it a car they already had on the lot?
I live near Roslyn and would most likely be checking them out to lease a nav TL...
thanks
mud guards,wood knob, splash guards, trunk mat,
all-season mats, wheel locks, green exterior, parchment interior.
Price 32,800. Only additional costs were tax and title.
I originally ordered the vehicle from another dealer in Nov, with the expected delivery date in Feb. In Jan, I came across another dealer whose price was $600+ lower, so I went with him.
The wait paid off.
can you confirm that, assuming no state tax, a $30,600 cap cost on the base AHFC (58%, .00215 mf) lease would amount to ~$422-$423? if incorrect, what is the figure?
In Ohio, the sales tax is based on the particular county. I bought the car in Cuyahoga county, which has 8% sales tax. This being said, the taxes are rolled into the $485/month payment.
Kevd
If I can make his numbers come out within $10/mo. without seeing the paperwork, it seems like a fair deal. It just shows you that when leasing, bargaining hard really pays off. If you save $500 on a car you are buying and keeping for five years, then you are just saving $10/mo. If you save that much on a 3 year lease, it is $15/mo.
regards,
kyfdx
Edmunds Price Checker
Edmunds Lease Calculator
Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!
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I'm taking delivery on 2/27 b/c I've already paid for Feb's Volvo lease, but they had the car on the lot. It was a non-NAV, basic TL. Cap cost was, I believe, $30,600 with a 56% residual (b/c 42 mths). $439/mth, nothing down at all, taxes rolled in, and they paid my last month's Volvo payment ($385). They call it a balloon-payment instead of a lease now b/c of liability issues, but it's the same thing as far as I can tell. There might have been more "wiggle" room, but I came in with figures in mind and once he met them (and I already knew I wanted the car), I took it. Getting quotes from other dealers on-line first was a good negotiating tool as well.
Good luck!
I recommend you contact the internet manager,
tell them what you want to pay, and proceed from there. Good Luck.
The dealer was not special - sort of a "low rent" feeling... I certainly did not fee like I was buy a luxuary car.
Anycase, the car was really hot at the time (and still is) so the supply was really low and the demand was high.
I think I got a good deal on the car. Anyone else?
Rich
Philadelphia, PA
Meanwhile, the purpose of this discussion is more along the lines of "what deal did you already get and what was it like getting it" rather than what is the best way to go after a lease.
So maybe we can continue the leasing conversation on the right board, and let this conversation get back to the deals folks have gotten.
Thanks.
Enjoy your car. Mine comes in two weeks.
Looking now to replace those Turanza's.....
How did the transaction go? Mind posting dealer name and out the door cost with breakdown? I am also from NJ and interested in knowing Tags+Title so I know that dealer isnt hiding profits in the name of TT.
Actually our jobs are to try to make it easy for folks to find what they are looking for by helping conversations stay relatively within their parameters (defined by category and title) and by making sure everyone is aware of all of our resources.
Lots of folks miss the FW&I board and there is a wealth of information there. It's one of the most helpful features of the Town Hall, IMO.
I think I explained the point of the Prices Paid discussions - we want to have a place where folks can easily look up purchase prices others have paid. Leasing ins and outs don't help those folks. Folks who want leasing information can best be served by posting your very helpful exchanges in a discussion specific to leasing.
You can talk about specific leasing details for the TL in our general Acura TL discussion if you'd like - but you'll miss out on Car_man's expertise.
Hope this helps -- this is kinda disruptive, so why don't you email me if we need to discuss it further.
Thanks!
Oh by the way - lots of folks also miss the outstanding "Search This Discussion" feature on the page bar - no need to sift through a zillion posts, just put in your keywords and you'll get links to all relevant posts.
$30930 (car w/ protection package)
$2242 (tax)
$60 (DMV fees)
$45 (doc fee)
$33291 total (includes 2 free oil changes)
I finalized a deal yesterday for TL with Navi+ protection package (trunk tray,splash guards, Mats,wheel locks) + wing spoiler +7yr/100K warrany for black/ebony and i am picking car 2 days later and guess what for $36,378 (including taxes and everything) and still more for 4.04% APR. I love this car
Best of luck in your search.
Thanks
34320 +TAX= Car($3200)+Wingspoiler ($700)+Warranty($1200)+protection package(300)+ doc fee $100 +$20 other fee.
Bad thing is , i have to drive 120 miles to bring it home. But i guess that is okay for the price i paid.
Hope it helps. Cheers.
I think a better solution would be to start a separate thread/discussion for leasing the TL...such as:
Acura TL - Leasing
This would be a place where folks interesting in leasing could discuss the ins and outs.
I would prefer not seeing the lease discussions in the general Acura TL thread...they DESERVE their own thread. Their should be enough interest (not me).