Ok, with regard to the ipod adapter: If you have the multifunction steering wheel, and you'll use it for the ipod, then it's a reasonable way to go. If you don't have it, or if you won't use it to control your ipod anyway, just get the aux/in instead. It's more versatile; you'll be able to plug anything into it, whereas with the ipod adapter, it's the ipod and that's it. It's also only $50.00. It doesn't charge your ipod, and the songs won't come up on the HU or be controlled by the steering wheel--if these are huge issues for you, go with the adapter (Ice link makes an ipod adapter too, but I'd stick with the Mini offering; this is something you want under warranty IMHO).
BTW the aux/in is very easy to install. But what I'd really recommend doing is buying a european parcel shelf (many mini sites have them; they cost about $70.00; you can get it for half that without the rubber floor to it--you can cut that out yourself if you want to save thirty bucks. I'm lazy, so I bought it complete.
Have your dealer install the shelf and the aux/in or the ipod adapter at the same time as the parcel shelf, or you can do it yourself if your comfortable with it--it's actually easy.
The parcel shelf is wonderful. Underneath the steering wheel normally there is a solid piece of plastic--the parcel shelf replaces this; the parcel shelf replaces this and has shelves in this, so you have storage area underneath the steering wheel, where no one but you can see it. It's standard in europe, but you can buy them in the USA. It actually increases leg room slightly too, but it's hardly noticeable. You can have the ipod adapter put here, or the aux/in (this is what I did); instead of in the glove compartment--much more convienent this way. To get behind the stereo, they'll have to disengage this panel anyway, so it's no extra work for them to remove it and replace it with the parcel shelf. The aux/in (and I think the ipod adapter too) simply plug in to the back of the HU; all you need is to be able to get back there.
Congrats. The numbers sound about right. I don't see any major issues.
I would definitely have financing arranged ahead of time, if for no other reason than not to be over a barrel in accepting whatever financing terms the dealer will offer you when you take delivery. In fact, you really shouldn't be shopping for a car without knowing if you can get financing. But you've got a month or so to take care of that. And since you have nothing down on the car, if worst comes to worst, you can just back out.
Thank you Mark. I will definitely take care of my financing now.
Do you think that my dealer giving me the production number and VIN number is enough of a guarantee that the car is being reserved for me? I would hope so, but I would feel much better if I had some sort of confirmation letter.
Do you think it is normal that they would hold this car for me without any sort of deposit??? Do you think the dealer was just being nice and doing me a favor? I would almost prefer to pay a deposit, and have more peace of mind that my order is locked down.... what do you think?
Thank you cct1! Yes, the euro parcel shelf sounds great. I will definitely look into that. I don't remember seeing that on the miniusa site...should i just ask my dealer if he can order that for me?
I think I will go with the ipod adapter, since I want to make sure the battery is being charged...i didn't even consider the under warranty aspect. That is important...thank you.
You have been of great help to me. I really appreciate it!
I generally don't trust dealers any further than I can throw them, but I wouldn't be terribly concerned about their willingness to "hold" your car without a deposit. It doesn't make any sense for them to give you this assurance and then foster ill will later by selling the car out from under you.
That being said, they won't hold the car for you indefinitely - you should be ready to buy when when car arrives or whatever time frame you've agreed to.
They probably understand your odd situation and are just wanting to do something to help you out in the name of good customer relations. And they aren't taking any significant risk if you back out - they can sell the car easily to someone else.
I think you did get lucky to get the car, although I suspect the fact that it is a MC rather than a MCS is helping out a great deal. The MC convertibles aren't in nearly as high a demand as the MCS. This worked in your favor.
They can be decent, but I for the life of me couldn't get them to deal squarely with me. It basically came down to: 1:Pay us lots of money up front for the priveledge of driving one today. 2:Let us do the financing(8-12%) and get MSRP. The exact quote I got from the salesperson was "I have to ensure that I get the same 3-5K markup that I get for the ones on the lot, afterall". Total(insert British term starting with "w"). 3:Buy several thousand in options. They were up front with the idea that you must pay a premium to own one and that nothing was real unless it was in writing(flat out refused to put anything in writing when I was there).
Extremely sneaky and unhelpful bunch of people once I got there.(though thankfully I only live 15 minutes from them)
But, who knows - you may get lucky. It happens. In any case, I'd come with a check for that exact amount and financing lined up. Play coy, get the car in front of you, make sure the price is real, and then when it comes to financing and all of that - just pull out a checkbook and write the full amount in 30 seconds before they can do anything.
Thanks for sharing your experience with me. That's exactly what I am afraid of, that everything sounds so easy and too good to be true, and that when I arrive, they will try to charge me more than they quoted.
I don't know how recently you bought your MINI, but I think I was lucky, because it is winter, and right before the holidays... The dealer told me they normally charge a $4000 mark up during the summer months, and they were going down to MSRP, because convertibles are in less demand in the winter.
I'm sorry to hear that you had a bad experience. I asked the dealer to send me an itemized price sheet, and he hasn't responded yet. (it's been 2 days already) However, I do have the e-mail he sent me with the total including tax,title and registration. If worse comes to worse, I can hopefully print that out as evidence of our agreement.
One thing I did learn, is that it is always better to ask for the internet manager, as opposed to a saleperson. The first time I called ASSAEL, I asked for a salesperson, and told them I was looking for a silver MC automatic. They said they had none. Then I got a lead from a dealer at MORRISTOWN telling me the chassis # of my dream MC, that was en route to ASSAEL. Then I called ASSAEL, asked for a salesperson, and he did not sound enthusiastic at all about my desire to purchase this particular car. He said he had only been there 3 months, and would have to talk to a manager first.
After calling other dealers around the country, I finally wised up, and called ASSAEL again, and this time, I asked for the internet manager. He was fantastic, and did not pressure me whatsoever re: options, financing, etc. I asked him about the installation costs for a few accessories, and he offered to install them for free. He even offered to throw in free floormats when I asked for any freebies.
I hope this helps others when they call around.
And trust me, if they screw with me, I will definitely let you all know as a word of warning!!!!!!!!!
Thanks Mark. I feel much better now. With all the fear and bad hype we give to dealers, it is hard to trust them.
I am going to have faith that they will keep their word.
I really appreciate you and every other kind soul in this forum that has held my hand and guided me every step of the way. I couldn't have done it without all of your wise advice and counsel.
I'm giving you all a big hug and kiss from Barcelona!
Hope you all enjoy a very happy holiday season!!!!!!!
Don't EVER believe the crap you get from dealers about "you got a special deal", or "we normally charge more but we're making an exception for you", etc. If they made a deal for you, they'll make it for the next guy/gal.
This is just Dealer Doublespeak 101 for gaining an upper hand in the push/pull of consumating car deals. I've seen deals sail along completely peachy right up to the last point in the finance mgrs office with the sales guy long gone. They shove the contract in front of you as a final formality, and if you take the time to read it you find $500 or $1K of special fees, or the price has changed, or the finance rate is suddenly 8.9% rather than the 3.9% you agreed to, or you're buying a $800 protection package you didn't agree to. When you object, you'll suddenly be in a confrontation and they'll draw on their "we're doing you a big favor" capital, so "why are you being such a hard [non-permissible content removed] about $500 now? We gave you a price that is $4K less than we usually give!"
NEVER let your sheilds down. If someone else has had a non-straightforward dealing with this dealer, you probably will too - that doesn't mean you won't get the car for what you want, but if you don't have the deal in writing, you'll always have to be willing to walk. ALWAYS.
It's damn cold and wintery in the PacNW right now, I wish I was in Barcelona!
I appreciate your words of caution, but now I'm getting scared...
I asked my dealer 5 days ago to send me an itemized price sheet, or a written confirmation of our deal. Still haven't heard from him.
Do you think the e-mail he sent me regarding the total price including tax,title,registration is sufficient proof enough of our agreement?
Should I pester him until he sends me something more substantial?
I would hate for this deal to go sour at the last minute...
What do you think I can do to prevent them from overcharging me at the last minute? I know you said to WALK, but I need my car asap, and it's difficult to find my exact MINI on a dealer's lot at the last minute.
If you've got something in writing (e.g. email) with the itemized cost that shows the exact amount you are going to pay, I wouldn't be too worried. It probably isn't legally binding, but a dealer would have to be very unscrupulous not to honor a deal they documented in email.
The best thing is a signed sales contract, but your situation may make it a little tricky to do this.
I'd go with what you have and hope for the best. I think the flexibility cuts both ways and being able to back out of the deal at the last second when you see your situation in LA might be a bonus. If the worst happens, you go down and buy a new Civic Si, or Jetta, or Mazda 3, or whatever for a lot less money. Is this really the end of the world?
I just placed an order for a Cooper S through South Bay Mini. They are projecting May 2006 delivery. Roger, did yours arrive within the September time-frame they quoted you?
Any notable positives or negatives about your experience with them?
I just placed an order for a Cooper S through South Bay Mini. They are projecting May 2006 delivery. Roger, did yours arrive within the September time-frame they quoted you?
Any other notable positives or negatives about your experience with them?
Hi everyone, I just placed an order for a Cooper S through South Bay Mini. They are projecting May 2006 delivery. Has anyone else had experience with this dealership, in particular the accuracy/reliability of their projected delivery date?
Any other notable positives or negatives about your experience with this dealership?
Also wondering if $599 for a factory/OEM alarm system sounds reasonable. The alarm itself lists for $299, which means they want $300 for labor to install. Seems like a lot for what should be a pretty quick and easy job.
What a great site; sorry it's taken me so long to discover it.
I'm thrilled with my Mini; as much as I try, I just can't stop my children from growing.
I'd like to sell my Mini (2003) and am astounded to see that if I do it myself, I can pretty much get what I paid for it. Does anyone have suggestions on how best sell Minis in these modern days?
Fwiw, if anyone wants positives/negatives about my Mini experience: + love the car - hate how far the dealer is + can park ANYwhere - window motor needed to be replaced early on - trunk latch is persnickety + 26 mpg city/hwy
apparently there has been a modest price increase. The base MC is up $500. It seemed to change overnight without warning.In fact the dealer order software still has the old base price in it so my salesman had to hand-write the price increase on my copy of the order form.
I don't know about that particular dealer, but I think everyone basically just ends up paying MSRP on MINI's these days. You're not likely to find anything less than that unless it's a demo car or has been sitting on the lot for a long time for some reason. I placed my order here in NoVA the other day for a base MINI Cooper and my projected delivery according to the salesman is late March with build to happen in week 9 which is end of Feb/beginning of March. I think becuase the MCS is more popular the wait is a little longer and it also depends on dealer allocation and how many orders are ahead of yours at a particular dealer. And of course it also depends on your location since East Coast delivery is a couple of weeks less than West Coast.
I am discovering that there are lots of good MINI forums out there on the 'Net. try MINI2.com or North American Motoring. There are also lots of MINI enthusiast groups out there, so the folks in those groups and forums might have good info on particular dealers and locales.
Curious, looking at a 2003 this weekend Mini S, 15k miles guy has a few cars and just wants to unload it. Warranty is intact until 2007 or 50k miles. It has alkl the bells and whistles, is this a great deal? Fiancee wants one pretty bad. he is asking 22k, would it be an insult to take a grand or two off
Doesn't sound like a great deal to me, but used MCS's are supporting price points that always seem ridiculous to me so it may be at the current market depending on where you live.
This car is three model years out of date, still in the first couple-year teething-pain problem years, and the seller is asking 105% to 85% of new price (depending on how it is optioned). Doesn't make sense to me.
Today, you can order a 2006 MCS for $21,400 with hundreds of improvements and a fresh four-year warranty. Tens of dealers all over the country will do this deal and deliver your car in a couple months. Exactly why would you pay $600 more for a three year old car?
To me, this car would have to get down to $19K or so to consider. But like I said, I just don't get the market for used MCSs these days. It doesn't make sense.
He says that the car in question "has all the bells and whistles" which I would think adds several thousand dollars worth of equipment over the $21400 base price. It's hard to say whether or not it's a good deal though. You should plug in the car and all the options in the Edmunds used car value evaluator and see what numbers it spits out. That should give you a better idea.
True, so the deal changes from paying $600 more for a three-year old car to paying $600 more for a three-year old car with leather, 17" wheels, and a better stereo.
But you're right, if the car is loaded up, it might be an okay deal (if you really want the options).
With respect to paying the "new price" for a three year old car - my motto has always been, if you are paying new price or close to new price (little depreciation), why on earth buy used? The "useful life" of most cars is 100,000 miles, so a car with 50,000 miles is already down half its useful life. Also, were those 50,000 miles easy or hard miles? Was the car taken in to fix every warranty glitch, or were things allowed to slide?
I am a contrarian. I think the best used car buys are the models that depreciate a lot, for no other reason than they aren't popular - like virtually all American cars. Japanese cars (and MINI's, of course) sell so close to new price, you might as well buy new.
This all assumes you are buying a car not more than 30,000 miles and 4 years old.
After that, or cdrtainly if you are looking at 10 year old cars, Japanese cars are better because they are more reliable in the long run, and (more importantly) they are more likely to have been kept up - owners of imports bite the bullet and pay for repairs and maintenance, while owners of Big 3 cars dump them at the first sign of trouble - thus creating a self-fulfilling prophecy. A MINI in 10 years will have "special interest" value far in excess of its actual economic (costs of operation, costs of repairs and maintenance) factors.
Just be patient and order your MINI. Many of the options do not add a lot of value to the basic car, which is already nice as is. Options and accessories really pump up the out the door price. If you build your car on line, print it out, then review it a week later and trim the "extras" you probably don't really need or want, you'll be surprised how affordable either MINI (base of SC) is. The beauty of "every car is an order car" is that you can do this; so that, practically speaking, a MINI can be much more affordable that an Acura RSX since you don't have to pay for unwanted options because another make's dealer is reluctant or unable to order.
When the redesigned 2007 medels come out, you'll suddenly find that the previous generation models suddenly will drop in value down to bluebook levels - no more premiums anymore for the old models, that's for sure.
So either wait and haggle hard when that happens or well, get a better car. For $25K, you can get a RX-8 or a used well - something far better than Mini makes. Now, Mini are great cars, make no mistake, but that much for a used one is silly.
Hi all, I thinking of buying a car from out-of-state because I can't find what I want at MSRP here. My DMV says any new car has to be "california certified," with regard to emissions standards. Does anyone know if all MINIs sold in the US are also legal for sale in California. Don't know if I can trust a dealer to tell me the truth. Any help is so appreciated.
Problem with Lease-By-Tel is that they give you the run around when it comes time to delivering the car to you. I got my car more than 3 weeks after the date I was promised. Had to spend more than $600 on rental cars in the meantime. They kept coming up with excuses after excuses. They would promise me it would be delivered on a certain day and they kep coming up with excuses. The savings were just not worth the hassle..
I have already been in to talk with the salesperson and basically get a price on the car. When it comes time to order, do they have a reputation for tacking on extra fees (document, prep, etc) or does anyone know if they are fairly honest and straight-forward?
I would characterize them as being honest and straightforward.. That said, there was a document fee pre-printed on my paperwork.. $95 or $125, I forget which.. As we had agreed on a total price, this had a line through it on my order..
I'm not real familiar with the MINI side, except that friends of mine who shopped there, said all sales are at MSRP.. That doesn't necessarily mean that there isn't some sort of dealer fee added.. I'm sure if you sat down with them ahead of time, they could show you exactly what you would be paying for a specific car.. Maybe even draw up a sample order for you, with all taxes and fees included.. so there would be no surprises at order time.
I'm guessing that if you insisted on only the MSRP, plus taxes and license... that you could probably get that done..
In other words.. if you ask, I'm sure they will be forthcoming with every single fee that you will have to pay.. And, with a little persistence, you might get them to dump any extra add-ons.
I would definitely want to know ahead of time.. the whole dealership is fairly friendly and accomodating, so I'm sure you can get the information you need with a phone call, or a short visit. (I was just there tonight, at the parts department!).
I'm in Atlanta and priced out my Mini yesterday. The "extra" costs look like they'll keep me from being an owner. Specifically it's 399 for a documents fee, 115 for the "PDI/Prog", and 125 for the detailing pkg which I was told really has to be done (though not demanded) because the paint is not sealed from the factory. The sealing is done in this detail and polishing step. It adds over 600 to the car and of course there's sales tax.
I still have to add in things like the black hood striping and floor mats. The dealer is adding nothing. I know it's only 600 but everyone has a budget and this may well break mine. Has anyone gotten anything thrown in by the dealer to help offset the purchase? My dealer is even charging me 59 for wheel locks if I want them!
Good for you. The factory paint is in fact superior to ANY aftermarket paint short of something in the $5000+ range, and has a nice clearcoat already. So that part was their scamming you, most definately.
$115 for the PDI - again, stupid fees. Doing normal business is well, part of doing business. You don't pay extra at the grocery store for the bags, afterall. $399 for doc fees is high. It should be $199 or close to it. Consider that they are already making 2-3K on the car thanks to selling it at MSRP and their hefty holdbacks and so on, IMO, you were right to start looking for another dealer. They have enough room to easily sell it to you for MSRP including all those fees if they desired.
If you can get them to throw in a bunch of extras like some aux gauges, mp3 adaptor jack, or upgrade to alloys or whatnot, since that's about 50% profit for them, that might also be a way to haggle those fees away.
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I just bought a Mini Convertible from the BMW Store in Cincinnati this week. I was very favorably impressed with all aspects of the transaction. Everyone was friendly and helpful, and there were no surprises expect for a $100 "documents" fee, which I gather is on the low end of what has become a common practice. The only car equipped the way I wanted was the demo (only two options). I took that at MSRP; they agreed to throw-in an armrest, which I really wanted. I originally thought of getting the "S", but the base model with the five-speed manual transmission has all the power I need, and is great fun to drive. So far it runs like a dream and I get lots of looks. I feel as though I'll get excellent service there as well (but I'm hoping I won't be needing much!).
I work with a guy that is selling his '04 Mini Cooper with the CVT with 16,500 miles for $11,000. It is red w/white top, no other options. He has had all service performed by dealer and is up to date on all required services and oil changes. I've been looking at estimated values and can't believe how good this deal is. I am think about buying to make a quick sale in a couple of months. Is this deal too good to be true or not?
Unless you live in Fargo, this price does seem to be well below market value. So you definitely want to probe why this guy is selling his car for a couple thousand less than he could probably get walking onto any number of used car lots. I'd suspect it's got an accident history, perhaps a salvage title.
If you do try and flip this car, watch out for taxes and overhead - depending on the state you live, you may have to pay full sales tax and register the car even if you sell it the next day.
It's a fair price. When the new body Coopers come out next fall, the previous generation will drop to normal pricing levels - which is going to be a nightmare for many owners. The car is entirely driven by status and image - so older generartions are well, just cars.
I just went to the San Francisco Mini dealer on an 06 S coupe with Premium package & leather seats - the best they would do is $2000 over list - that seems crazy. I have seen posts here that people are finding Mini's at list in other parts of the country. Anyone getting list or closer in California? I don't mind a drive to get a good deal.
Unless you live in Fargo, this price does seem to be well below market value. So you definitely want to probe why this guy is selling his car for a couple thousand less than he could probably get walking onto any number of used car lots. I'd suspect it's got an accident history, perhaps a salvage title.
No accidents or even minor scratches or dings. The car looks brand new inside and out. The guy is one of our Japanese Engineers and has to go back to Japan. He doesn't have much time to try and sell it outside of people he knows at work. This was his wife's car so it didn't get driven much. He just sold his Outback the same way. He even paid for extra oil changes above and beyond the Mini factory intervals.
Comments
BTW the aux/in is very easy to install. But what I'd really recommend doing is buying a european parcel shelf (many mini sites have them; they cost about $70.00; you can get it for half that without the rubber floor to it--you can cut that out yourself if you want to save thirty bucks. I'm lazy, so I bought it complete.
Have your dealer install the shelf and the aux/in or the ipod adapter at the same time as the parcel shelf, or you can do it yourself if your comfortable with it--it's actually easy.
The parcel shelf is wonderful. Underneath the steering wheel normally there is a solid piece of plastic--the parcel shelf replaces this; the parcel shelf replaces this and has shelves in this, so you have storage area underneath the steering wheel, where no one but you can see it. It's standard in europe, but you can buy them in the USA. It actually increases leg room slightly too, but it's hardly noticeable. You can have the ipod adapter put here, or the aux/in (this is what I did); instead of in the glove compartment--much more convienent this way. To get behind the stereo, they'll have to disengage this panel anyway, so it's no extra work for them to remove it and replace it with the parcel shelf. The aux/in (and I think the ipod adapter too) simply plug in to the back of the HU; all you need is to be able to get back there.
I would definitely have financing arranged ahead of time, if for no other reason than not to be over a barrel in accepting whatever financing terms the dealer will offer you when you take delivery. In fact, you really shouldn't be shopping for a car without knowing if you can get financing. But you've got a month or so to take care of that. And since you have nothing down on the car, if worst comes to worst, you can just back out.
- Mark
Do you think that my dealer giving me the production number and VIN number is enough of a guarantee that the car is being reserved for me? I would hope so, but I would feel much better if I had some sort of confirmation letter.
Do you think it is normal that they would hold this car for me without any sort of deposit??? Do you think the dealer was just being nice and doing me a favor? I would almost prefer to pay a deposit, and have more peace of mind that my order is locked down.... what do you think?
Thanks again for all of your help....
nycgrrrl
I think I will go with the ipod adapter, since I want to make sure the battery is being charged...i didn't even consider the under warranty aspect. That is important...thank you.
You have been of great help to me. I really appreciate it!
nycgrrrl
That being said, they won't hold the car for you indefinitely - you should be ready to buy when when car arrives or whatever time frame you've agreed to.
They probably understand your odd situation and are just wanting to do something to help you out in the name of good customer relations. And they aren't taking any significant risk if you back out - they can sell the car easily to someone else.
I think you did get lucky to get the car, although I suspect the fact that it is a MC rather than a MCS is helping out a great deal. The MC convertibles aren't in nearly as high a demand as the MCS. This worked in your favor.
Again congrats,
- Mark
1:Pay us lots of money up front for the priveledge of driving one today.
2:Let us do the financing(8-12%) and get MSRP. The exact quote I got from the salesperson was "I have to ensure that I get the same 3-5K markup that I get for the ones on the lot, afterall". Total(insert British term starting with "w").
3:Buy several thousand in options. They were up front with the idea that you must pay a premium to own one and that nothing was real unless it was in writing(flat out refused to put anything in writing when I was there).
Extremely sneaky and unhelpful bunch of people once I got there.(though thankfully I only live 15 minutes from them)
But, who knows - you may get lucky. It happens. In any case, I'd come with a check for that exact amount and financing lined up. Play coy, get the car in front of you, make sure the price is real, and then when it comes to financing and all of that - just pull out a checkbook and write the full amount in 30 seconds before they can do anything.
I don't know how recently you bought your MINI, but I think I was lucky, because it is winter, and right before the holidays... The dealer told me they normally charge a $4000 mark up during the summer months, and they were going down to MSRP, because convertibles are in less demand in the winter.
I'm sorry to hear that you had a bad experience. I asked the dealer to send me an itemized price sheet, and he hasn't responded yet. (it's been 2 days already) However, I do have the e-mail he sent me with the total including tax,title and registration. If worse comes to worse, I can hopefully print that out as evidence of our agreement.
One thing I did learn, is that it is always better to ask for the internet manager, as opposed to a saleperson. The first time I called ASSAEL, I asked for a salesperson, and told them I was looking for a silver MC automatic. They said they had none. Then I got a lead from a dealer at MORRISTOWN telling me the chassis # of my dream MC, that was en route to ASSAEL. Then I called ASSAEL, asked for a salesperson, and he did not sound enthusiastic at all about my desire to purchase this particular car. He said he had only been there 3 months, and would have to talk to a manager first.
After calling other dealers around the country, I finally wised up, and called ASSAEL again, and this time, I asked for the internet manager. He was fantastic, and did not pressure me whatsoever re: options, financing, etc. I asked him about the installation costs for a few accessories, and he offered to install them for free. He even offered to throw in free floormats when I asked for any freebies.
I hope this helps others when they call around.
And trust me, if they screw with me, I will definitely let you all know as a word of warning!!!!!!!!!
I am going to have faith that they will keep their word.
I really appreciate you and every other kind soul in this forum that has held my hand and guided me every step of the way. I couldn't have done it without all of your wise advice and counsel.
I'm giving you all a big hug and kiss from Barcelona!
Hope you all enjoy a very happy holiday season!!!!!!!
nycgrrrl
This is just Dealer Doublespeak 101 for gaining an upper hand in the push/pull of consumating car deals. I've seen deals sail along completely peachy right up to the last point in the finance mgrs office with the sales guy long gone. They shove the contract in front of you as a final formality, and if you take the time to read it you find $500 or $1K of special fees, or the price has changed, or the finance rate is suddenly 8.9% rather than the 3.9% you agreed to, or you're buying a $800 protection package you didn't agree to. When you object, you'll suddenly be in a confrontation and they'll draw on their "we're doing you a big favor" capital, so "why are you being such a hard [non-permissible content removed] about $500 now? We gave you a price that is $4K less than we usually give!"
NEVER let your sheilds down. If someone else has had a non-straightforward dealing with this dealer, you probably will too - that doesn't mean you won't get the car for what you want, but if you don't have the deal in writing, you'll always have to be willing to walk. ALWAYS.
It's damn cold and wintery in the PacNW right now, I wish I was in Barcelona!
- Mark
I appreciate your words of caution, but now I'm getting scared...
I asked my dealer 5 days ago to send me an itemized price sheet, or a written confirmation of our deal. Still haven't heard from him.
Do you think the e-mail he sent me regarding the total price including tax,title,registration is sufficient proof enough of our agreement?
Should I pester him until he sends me something more substantial?
I would hate for this deal to go sour at the last minute...
What do you think I can do to prevent them from overcharging me at the last minute? I know you said to WALK, but I need my car asap, and it's difficult to find my exact MINI on a dealer's lot at the last minute.
Oh how I wish dealers weren't so greedy!!!! :mad:
The best thing is a signed sales contract, but your situation may make it a little tricky to do this.
I'd go with what you have and hope for the best. I think the flexibility cuts both ways and being able to back out of the deal at the last second when you see your situation in LA might be a bonus. If the worst happens, you go down and buy a new Civic Si, or Jetta, or Mazda 3, or whatever for a lot less money. Is this really the end of the world?
- Mark
I'll let you all know how it goes down in January!
-nycgrrrl
the September time-frame they quoted you?
Any notable positives or negatives about your experience with them?
Thanks for any input.
the September time-frame they quoted you?
Any other notable positives or negatives about your experience with them?
Thanks for any input.
Any other notable positives or negatives about your experience with this dealership?
Also wondering if $599 for a factory/OEM alarm system sounds reasonable. The alarm itself lists for $299, which means they want $300 for labor to install. Seems like a lot for what should be a pretty quick and easy job.
Thanks for any input. Happy Holidays to everyone.
I'm thrilled with my Mini; as much as I try, I just can't stop my children from growing.
I'd like to sell my Mini (2003) and am astounded to see that if I do it myself, I can pretty much get what I paid for it. Does anyone have suggestions on how best sell Minis in these modern days?
Fwiw, if anyone wants positives/negatives about my Mini experience:
+ love the car
- hate how far the dealer is
+ can park ANYwhere
- window motor needed to be replaced early on
- trunk latch is persnickety
+ 26 mpg city/hwy
Can anyone tell me if MCS 2006 will increase $300 in Jan 2006?? Because the Mini dealer told me that last week.
thanks!!
regards,
kyfdx
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I am discovering that there are lots of good MINI forums out there on the 'Net. try MINI2.com or North American Motoring. There are also lots of MINI enthusiast groups out there, so the folks in those groups and forums might have good info on particular dealers and locales.
This car is three model years out of date, still in the first couple-year teething-pain problem years, and the seller is asking 105% to 85% of new price (depending on how it is optioned). Doesn't make sense to me.
Today, you can order a 2006 MCS for $21,400 with hundreds of improvements and a fresh four-year warranty. Tens of dealers all over the country will do this deal and deliver your car in a couple months. Exactly why would you pay $600 more for a three year old car?
To me, this car would have to get down to $19K or so to consider. But like I said, I just don't get the market for used MCSs these days. It doesn't make sense.
- Mark
But you're right, if the car is loaded up, it might be an okay deal (if you really want the options).
- Mark
I am a contrarian. I think the best used car buys are the models that depreciate a lot, for no other reason than they aren't popular - like virtually all American cars. Japanese cars (and MINI's, of course) sell so close to new price, you might as well buy new.
This all assumes you are buying a car not more than 30,000 miles and 4 years old.
After that, or cdrtainly if you are looking at 10 year old cars, Japanese cars are better because they are more reliable in the long run, and (more importantly) they are more likely to have been kept up - owners of imports bite the bullet and pay for repairs and maintenance, while owners of Big 3 cars dump them at the first sign of trouble - thus creating a self-fulfilling prophecy. A MINI in 10 years will have "special interest" value far in excess of its actual economic (costs of operation, costs of repairs and maintenance) factors.
Just be patient and order your MINI. Many of the options do not add a lot of value to the basic car, which is already nice as is. Options and accessories really pump up the out the door price. If you build your car on line, print it out, then review it a week later and trim the "extras" you probably don't really need or want, you'll be surprised how affordable either MINI (base of SC) is. The beauty of "every car is an order car" is that you can do this; so that, practically speaking, a MINI can be much more affordable that an Acura RSX since you don't have to pay for unwanted options because another make's dealer is reluctant or unable to order.
So either wait and haggle hard when that happens or well, get a better car. For $25K, you can get a RX-8 or a used well - something far better than Mini makes. Now, Mini are great cars, make no mistake, but that much for a used one is silly.
I thinking of buying a car from out-of-state because I can't find what I want at MSRP here. My DMV says any new car has to be "california certified," with regard to emissions standards. Does anyone know if all MINIs sold in the US are also legal for sale in California. Don't know if I can trust a dealer to tell me the truth. Any help is so appreciated.
- Mark
I'm not real familiar with the MINI side, except that friends of mine who shopped there, said all sales are at MSRP.. That doesn't necessarily mean that there isn't some sort of dealer fee added.. I'm sure if you sat down with them ahead of time, they could show you exactly what you would be paying for a specific car.. Maybe even draw up a sample order for you, with all taxes and fees included.. so there would be no surprises at order time.
I'm guessing that if you insisted on only the MSRP, plus taxes and license... that you could probably get that done..
In other words.. if you ask, I'm sure they will be forthcoming with every single fee that you will have to pay.. And, with a little persistence, you might get them to dump any extra add-ons.
I would definitely want to know ahead of time.. the whole dealership is fairly friendly and accomodating, so I'm sure you can get the information you need with a phone call, or a short visit. (I was just there tonight, at the parts department!).
regards,
kyfdx
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Rob N.
I still have to add in things like the black hood striping and floor mats. The dealer is adding nothing. I know it's only 600 but everyone has a budget and this may well break mine. Has anyone gotten anything thrown in by the dealer to help offset the purchase? My dealer is even charging me 59 for wheel locks if I want them!
Thanks,
Ron B.
$115 for the PDI - again, stupid fees. Doing normal business is well, part of doing business. You don't pay extra at the grocery store for the bags, afterall. $399 for doc fees is high. It should be $199 or close to it. Consider that they are already making 2-3K on the car thanks to selling it at MSRP and their hefty holdbacks and so on, IMO, you were right to start looking for another dealer. They have enough room to easily sell it to you for MSRP including all those fees if they desired.
If they know you've made the final decision, and that is the only thing keeping you from buying the car.. sometimes those fees will disappear..
Of course, you have to be ready to commit to the purchase, if they say yes..
regards,
kyfdx
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2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h)
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The only car equipped the way I wanted was the demo (only two options). I took that at MSRP; they agreed to throw-in an armrest, which I really wanted.
I originally thought of getting the "S", but the base model with the five-speed manual transmission has all the power I need, and is great fun to drive.
So far it runs like a dream and I get lots of looks. I feel as though I'll get excellent service there as well (but I'm hoping I won't be needing much!).
If you do try and flip this car, watch out for taxes and overhead - depending on the state you live, you may have to pay full sales tax and register the car even if you sell it the next day.
- Mark
Thanks,
Joe
- Mark
No accidents or even minor scratches or dings. The car looks brand new inside and out. The guy is one of our Japanese Engineers and has to go back to Japan. He doesn't have much time to try and sell it outside of people he knows at work. This was his wife's car so it didn't get driven much. He just sold his Outback the same way. He even paid for extra oil changes above and beyond the Mini factory intervals.