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Comments
I assume your Taurus is with the base Vulcan or Vulcan FFV engine, right? The 3.0 Duratech DOHC engine takes more like 6 quarts. If I remember right, the manual says 5.5 quarts but to get mine to the full mark on the dipstick it takes 6 quarts, but I am doing it from memory, not having the manual in front of me at the moment.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I always change my filter with every oil change. Doing it myself, I am already saving $15-$20 per change, so why not change the filter? At about $3-$4 per filter it is cheap enough.
As a buddy of mine found out, that "$300" oil pan will cost well North of $1k by the time you've removed the exhaust pipe that runs right under it on some engines... Ford truck straight-six is a prime offender here, and not the only one...
No quickie lube for me, thanks, I just don't have the time.
-Mathias
Also, I am sorry to say that after a three-store search, I am forced to assume that Walmart Supertech filters are no longer available in the ST-16 configuration, which fits many Chrysler Corporation and Jeep vehicles. I hope I am wrong.
I'm not sayin spend 10 bucks on a Mobil-1 filter, but at least get like a purolator or something. Your engine will thank you later....
I'd like to see more than one, although I can believe the one if it was the Bob's site?
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I suggest that you bring your own synth for the changes, to save some money.
Personally during the warranty period I'd just bite the bullet and use what VW recommends. If you bring in your own oil, they won't write up what you brought in, so you will need to keep the oil receipt for records. VW also apparently replaces the drain plug at every oil change, necessary for keeping the oil pan from being stripped. Finally, VW oil filters are designed for longer life than your typical oil shop filters.
I am facing the same dilemma on my 2004 Golf, 2.0 normally aspirated. The manual actually calls for 5-40, with 5-30 only as a fallback. As the earlier poster noted, 5-40 means synthetic. If this Golf doesn't consume oil, I'll just use the dealers synthetic (at their higher prices) until out of the warranty period, or at least far enough into it to know there are no problems on the horizon.
If it burns oil like my 2001 Golf did, I'll fall into the dilemma of replacing up to 3 quarts of oil between 5,000 mile changes (although the non-turbo is authorized for 10,000 mile changes - once again assuming synthetic - I won't go that far without an oil change and filter) which would be terribly expensive with dealer Syntec oil (this grade is only sold by VW dealers, apparently, for about $10 a bottle). In that case I would carry in my own Mobil 1 0-40, which is only $5 a bottle at Kragen (don't see it at Walmart yet). It's not so much so I can save $20 on the dealer's oil during the change, as to be able to use Mobil 1 for mid-oil change top ups.
And oh yeah, if no one mentioned it, with VW's you REALLY need to check for oil consumption. It will settle into some level of regular usage - my former 2.0 started out using a quart every 1,000 and then settled into a quart about every 1,500 - 2,000. My current 2.0 hasn't used a drop in the first 1,000 miles (knock on wood).
Based on my 2001 experience, cutting corners on service with VW's is not a good idea. They last a long time with factory service, but unlike Toyotas don't take kindly to poor service or no service.
I change the oil in my 04 Passat TDI and use Rotella synthetic 5-40, regardless of what VW says. I have researched many of the diesel and TDI online forums and the consensus seems to be that it's the best out there. When I had my 98 Jetta TDI, I switched to Rotella synthetic from Rotella regular at about 65k miles and immediately noticed a significant decrease in oil consumption My Passat consumes very little, if any, oil between changes. Also, with regard to changing the drain plug, I use a "top-sider" vacuum pump, which sucks the oil out of the dip-stick shaft, thus eliminating the need to even remove the drain plug in the first place. This method is especially convenient if your VW's oil filter is accessible from under the hood, as is mine. Anyway, just thought I'd add my 2 cents.....
And todd53, I would urge you to drain the oil, hot, from the plug hole at least once in a while, to gain the advantage of washing out particulates that might be lurking in the pan floor.
My car seized (with out warning) and now I have a $6,000 repair bill.
I certainly don't want to discount your experiences or your anger, but in hundreds of VW lemon law cases, on recent models, of course, I've never seen a complaint for this or heard of it until now.
This IS a big problem. Do a web search and it is everywhere.
Volkswagen is HORRIBLE to deal with.
I am NOT having my engine fixed.
Sell your Passat NOW!
Fatal mistake - you violated your portion and responsibilities of the warranty - cut and dried - they had a requirement, and you didn't meet it.
Sorry, but that's just the way it is.
As the vehicle manufacturer, they set the standards by which you have to maintain the product. If you don't maintain the product to their standards (overly generous to begin with!), you lose - plain and simple.
Freaking out and giving people grief just guarantees that no service manager will make an exception for you.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
It was recommended that Passat owners use synthetic oil (are the oil changes using synthetic really $65.00 approx.?)
Can you "standard" oil still be used?
If a garage has the $20 change, bring a jug of Mobil 1 synthetic (cost $20) and ask them to use that. I will start doing this with my Subaru WRX. The dealer charges $22.00 for an oil change and will install supplied oil. So $42 is not so bad.
Both "should" satisfy the VW requirement but only the 0-40 says so in the fine print on the back of the bottle. So although the 0-40 appears to be out of spec - 0w instead of 5w - it isn't. It just flows better when cold.
My dealer always used full synthetic on tthe turbos.
I always follow the "severe service" or "conservative" manufacturers oil change recommendations - on my non-turbo 2.0, I do 5,000 mile oil changes because the manual says 10,000 is ok. BTW, the 10,000 is based on using VW spec oil, which is 5-40, which is full synthetic. If you use their "ok if not available" oil weight, 5-30, you've still got to use synthetic. That's the trick.
VW isn't clear on the need for synthetic because they don't want to make it look like their car is expensive to operate. Same reason they say, for the 2.0, that premium gas is recommended but regular is "ok."
My dealer has a sign at the service counter advising turbo owners they must use premium (it is a definited requirement for the turbos) and VW is not responsible if they use regular. This sign wasn't there last time...I think owners, hit with the high price of gas, have been cutting corners recently.
A VW is not an economy car, not a Camry or Accord. It has always had "european" performance at a bargain price, but it has some specific coolant, oil, gas, and service requirements. They aren't onerous, but they need to be followed.
I hate to say it, but my suspicion is that some owners have been putting dino oil in their turbos instead of synthetic. 5-40 is hard to find. For that matter, nowadays most owners don't even read their owners manuals.
And yeah, VW ownership is higher maintenance than some cars - VW increased the tire pressure requirement from the 26 psi on my 2001 model to 32 psi on my current model - same car, same brand and size of tires - just wanted to add a safety margin, I guess - but they never sent me a notice, my dealer's service department never advised me. You really have to look out for yourself, and not rely on even the dealer. Caveat emptor!
"I hate to say it, but my suspicion is that some owners have been putting dino oil in their turbos instead of synthetic."
There's plenty of evidence that many dealers were dumping in dino oil in grades from 5w-30 to 20w-50 into the 1.8T, at least prior to the recent announcement.
It takes me about 1 hour to do the turbo, start to finish (the filter is a pain to remove). The best part is, I don't have to leave it at the dealer for day or two for a simple oil change. It isn't all about money. The time it takes to get the thing serviced at the dealer is a pain too.
Plus, when I do it myself, I know it's done right, and I know I've checked all of the fluids, etc. And yes, I've saved all of my receipts for oil from NAPA. I get my filters from the dealer and save those receipts as well.
I always brought a case o Mobil 1 0W40 with me.
Krzys
I swear, VWOA and its dealers seem destined to shoot themselves in the foot.
Well engineered in Germany, built in near-third world countries, and serviced in definitely third world dealerships.