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Comments
MidCow
2006 Red S2000
I snagged a new set of Factory Red leather seat covers for the S2k from ebay. Now the trick is to get it installed. Local upholstrers charge about $240 + tax on an average but I am looking to do this myself to save the cost. Anyone ever do this? Any input would be really helpful.
Cheers!!
--njexpress
I'm in search of a new car and the honda S2000 is very appealing. I wanted to know what some owners would estimate as its life expectancy ? Would I be better off purchasing a used S2000 with high mileage, if its in good condition, or is it not worth it to save the money ? Also, are the improvements made from the 00 01 models to the 02 very important ? (i.e glass rear window )
thanks
I don't think I've answered your question regarding price yet. You may want to look around AutoTrader.com and see what you can find. You may be able to obtain a new 2006 still at the dealership at a better price, still have a warranty, more financing options and a 2006 would give you an insurance break to boot.
Regarding which year to get, depends on your driving style. The red-line/torque differences may be enough to make you rule out one year or the other. The best way to decide is to drive each - it is a feeling not a textbook answer. For me, the S2K is a daily commuter so I prefer the "softer" style of the newer models; I also like the drive-by-wire.
I know of another person on this forum who had a similar issue and had to go through some pain to resolve it.
Wonder if this is a common problem and if this has eventually has gotten worse over time?
Regards
Mike
I am posting the selling price at $25,000 obo.
If interested please respond to my e-mail at hamovdjhotmail.com
Thanks.
Cheers!!
--njexpress
I tried to undo my trade only one day later but the San Antonio Honda Dealorship wouldn't let me.
But at least it still cost you a fraction of what a loaded Z4 or Boxster would have.
Good luck.
I had a 2002 S2000 that I traded in the summer of 2004. According to the Acura dealer I traded it to, the purchaser has run it up to 55,000 miles with 0 problems.
It is possible to purchase a new S2000 for $30,000, so price a used one accordingly. For example, I would NOT consider a 1 year old one with 10k miles for $25k+, simply because proper break in is absolutely critical with this car and you'll be spending close to $1,000 for new tires at 15k +/-. At that price, I'd just buy new. If you can get a 3-4+ year old one appropriately discounted, that might make more sense. Just make sure you have the service records and don't buy a car from a boy racer. :surprise:
I would NOT recommend a 2000/2001 S2000. The 2002/2003 have the 2.0 liter, 9,000 rpm engine. The 2004+ have the 2.2 liter 8,000 rpm engine. Personally, I like the 9,000 rpm engine, but either one is a fun car to drive.
And even a brand new 2007 isn't a bad deal - just heard of someone buying one for $29,000 even, thanks to the $2,000 dealer cash incentive. That's $3,000 less than the $32k I paid for a 2002 in November 2001 - and I got a very good deal at the time. Many were still selling for $2,000-$4,000 over sticker ($36,000+).
Keep in mind a used car is used but from my experience the S2K keeps with the Honda reputation of long lasting and reliable.
Good luck
Any ideas about the engine life, or other things I should be careful about?
Is reliability an issue after these many miles?
Thoughts from the guys who hold onto their cars for a LONG time!?!?
Do you just need transportation or do you need a BMW? Just b/c you may not drive much, you still have oil to change, insurance, etc and SUV's are more expensive to operate, IMO.
1) Engine wasn't warmed up enough (3 bars at least) - built-in limiter will cut the gas until the engine is warm enough.
2) Bad Gas?
3) Clogged fuel filter/Fuel pump?
4) Did you put in 93 octane?
5) Low fuel?
Why are you purposely trying to redline it? :confuse:
#1 could be the case if the bogging happened at a lower rev. That built-in limiter you mentioned happens at a lower point on the rev-band, I think somewhere around 3 grand. At 7,000, he is already in VTEC...
If the CEL light came on, O2 sensor issue would be my guess. Keep us posted.
Oh, I know the VTEC-ing is fun, just thought you might be doing it for a reason other than fun. :shades:
In my Baja, if I hit red-line, the fuel would shut off so violently that I'd just about hit my steering wheel with my face... ok, maybe not that extreme but sure felt like it.
Baja, huh? Cool, I have a Subaru for a DD as well. Haven't gone to redline with that yet, although the boxer engine seems willing to. I'm just trying to keep the gas mileage up.
Just wanted to post my experiences on "Dent Removal with Dry Ice". Some good samaritan had opened a door on my S2K's passenger side door that left a deepish dent a few months ago. Being a detail [non-permissible content removed] high on Zaino's results, this annoyed me to no end until I decided to try out the dry ice technique.
I initially heated the surface of the dent with a hair dryer for about a minute and applied dry ice over it for a minute.
I kept repeating this at least seven times and I am not even ready to imagine if it did anything to the dent.
Is this because dry ice does not do the trick or Is the gauge of the sheet metal too thick? I honestly can't say. I decided it is not even worth a try on my M Class considering the sheet metal can only be just as thick if not thicker.
I was initially upset but, all it took me for another spin on a twisty road and my smile returned - Heck! Dent on door panel or not - An S2K is still what it is!!
My take on this thing:
Do not bother applying dry ice if there is a dent on your S2K door - Just shop around for a body shop or a PDR location.
Cheers!!
--njexpress
But, in any event, you should be able to find a paintless dent removal service that will restore your S2000 to original condition.
Thanks for the response. It was not even on the crease. In fact, it was an inch above the crease line. Members in S2KI have reported sucess but, Just my luck! I had to park this one time, next to cars - Normally, I park a mile away from the rest of the cars but just the day before, I had a shopping cart right next to my car in an otherwise deserted area of the lot - It looked like I was being sent a message, almost
Anyways, the one PDR technician within a 50 mile radius is only available 7 Am thru 10 AM, Monday thru Friday and I would already be at work at that time - Guess I have to take time off to do that - The more I think about it, it only makes me madder that people have no consideration for other's prized posessions - Oh Well - Nobody can be flawless, I guess... Not even my S2000....
Cheers!!
--njexpress
I just bought my 2007 s2k about two and a half weeks ago, and it's my very first sports car. Since it's my very first, I'm interest in maintaining it properly, so it's good to know that the maintenance factors are low except for the replacement tires.
You've recommended replacing it with OEM or better. Since I'm truly new at this, would you mind explaining what "OEM" means?
Thanks.
s2k_07
I'm from the Silicon Valley Bay Area in California, and I just bought my 2007 s2k about two and a half weeks ago. I absolutely love the way it feels when I drive it, as many of you had also mentioned through this forum. Asides from the financial factor, this was also the determining factor for me.
It's my very first sports car so I'm absolutely new at this. I would like to get some advice in regards to its proper maintenance and where to bring it for services and repairs. Does anyone have any recommendations and advices as to where I should be bringing my car in when that time comes, dealerships versus independent shops, etc.? What are some of your experiences?
Asides from the cost differences, I've heard that dealerships costs more, I'm interested in knowing which repair shops are good. Does anyone know of or can recommend a good one in the Silicon Valley area?
Thanks!
s2k_07
You will not believe how little maintenance there is to this car. There is an S2K guru at my local Honda shop and for our part of the country, oil change isn't recommended until around 7500 miles. At that point, I'll probably switch to Syntehtic but I haven't done any research on that yet so don't hold me to it.
To answer your other question, OEM simply means "Original Equipment Manufacturer" and pertains to anything that came on the car from the manufacturer. The part does not have to be Honda branded (such as the tires for example). If you replace your tires with Bridgestone Potenza 05s, then that would be replacing tires with OEM tires. If you went with another brand or style, then that would be considered NON-OEM tires. Hope that helps.
If you don't get any responses here for Silicon Valley dealerships, you can interview your local dealers. You can also check online for car forums for your area. There is a forum devoted to the S2K (www.s2ki.com/forums). My local chapter is very active and I'm sure with your climate, your chapter would also be active.
Welcome to the club!
I see you're wondering about problem areas. I have been a member of s2ki.com for many many years and I feel I'm got a good grasp on the car. I should preempt my advice with a disclaimer, my S is supercharged, so I need higher performance parts than you might need. Also, problems I have may not apply to you.
Obviously, the biggest expense is going to be tires. Right now, I've got Falken Ziex 512 tires. They are fantastic and I highly recommend them. The treadwear rating is high and the grip is phenomenal. I used to have serious fishtail issues until I got these tires. Also, the longevity is very good. Another good set of tires are those Fuzions. They're super cheap and they last a long time. Grip isn't the best, but they're more than adequate for spirited driving.
Next problem you might have is your clutch. I use an ACT Stage 3. The stock clutch is adequate, but when your warranty runs out, I recommend an ACT Stage 1 or 2.
Finally, there's the rear end. The pumpkin (rear diff) has been known to break. Usually, it only applies to high end applications, but nonetheless it's good to be aware of it.
If you ever have questions or want to know about any strange noises, just let me know! I've been working on my car for years and can [hopefully] provide useful guidance.
I notice occasional "low whine" from rear end. This seems to be more common in colder weather, when car isn't warmed up and when going down hill, or coasting to a stop. More noticeable with top up ( as are most noises in the S ).
Mine is a '01 S2K with 33K miles. Bought used in '04 with 20K miles at that time. Had all routine maintenance documented. I don't drive it that aggressively. It gets driven above 6K rpm for short bursts twice per week, but only when engine has warmed up. From the appearance of the car when I bought it, I believe the prior owner used it only as a summer car and didn't race it or abuse it. It has not had the rear differential fluid changed.
Is this a "normal" noise? When would you change the diff. fluid, or is it necessary to do this if I drive it as indicated ?
Has the noise only occurred recently? Is it matter of you noticing it now? There should indeed be a small mechanical spinning sound coming from the rear. It would sound like a low whine. Try this, coast down a hill with the clutch engaged in gear (ie, the engine slows you down) and then try it without a gear selected. If there's a difference, you're probably hearing your clutch.
Clutches can be finiky with various weather. I see you're from MN, so you do indeed have cold winters. If it turns out to be the clutch, exercise it a few times before you drive on it.
To be quite honest, I drive my truck in winter (Montana gets well below 0 in winter). The S block is made of aluminum and could suffer substantial problems.
Let me know if any of this helps!
Also, I did look up the rec. service on Honda.com. They rec. rear diff. fluid change at 30K on the S2K, even for normal driving conditions. I have heard other people echo what you said about not needing to replace the fluid under "normal" driving conditions. Some have suggested that replacing the fluid can be "tricky" if done by an inexperienced technician, and could lead to more problems if not done right. Not many S2Ks up here in MN, so I don't know how many rear diffs. are seen by the usual Honda technician.
Ok, I just perused s2ki and found some owners calling for it as often as annually (I don't recommend that). I also found a link here on how to change it out. It's got some useful info too.
As far as clutch v. rear diff, it is possible that it still might be the pumpkin. There are some parts in there that only operate when driven. The general rule of thumb is you're probably ok unless you smell something. Your clutch will give you many months of notice before it burns out completely. The rear diff, well, that's never happened to me (I did snap an axle in half though *grin*). Rear diffs typically break down after a series of hard acceleration (ie, racing every red light).
With such low mileage, I would have to say your low whine is normal. If it gets worse, I might consider having a tech ride along with you (they love rides, it gets them out of the garage, and thus, work). I'd have a bottle of fluid handy, though.
I got a black on black, realizing that I would have to keep it cleaned and waxed enough to use it like a mirror. But what to do, I love that look. Kind of felt like Batman in his bat mobile except a little more stylish, (nothing wrong with Batman or his bat mobile, I love them!), but instead of chasing villains, I'm avoiding them, i.e. where I go, where I park, etc.
I test drove a very bright yellow one and I have to admit that it does make me feel like I'm sending a signal of "get out of my way or you'll eat my dust..." kind of feeling but I can't see myself looking at it every single day for who knows how long I'm going to have this car. Hopefully years.
It's also good to know about the oil change schedule. What brand of oil do you use? And I understand that tire threads doesn't always wear down evenly but about how thin should it be before I absolutely have to change them? I've heard testing it with the depth of a penny?
Thanks again for your help and informations.
s2k_07
Wow, supercharged! So how many hp do you have? I also got a black one but with black interiors.
BTW, I went to get my car washed last weekend and afterwards found that there was a thin film of rusted looking color residue on each of the tire's brake rims at the edges. I saw the same thing on a brand new Miata in a parking lot, and it also had a large rusted looking streak running down the surface of the disk as well. Is this a normal phenomenon after each exposures to a wash or water? If so, what kind of metal cleaning product should I be using to clean this up with?
Thanks again for all of your help and recommendations.
s2k_07
I'm pushing roughly 320hp. The supercharger and VTEC both really kick in around 5500rpm. After that, 9000 comes up in a hurry.
That rust is normal. You don't need to clean it. The pads will take care of it. All rotors do that (except maybe ceramic?).
I only use Mobil 1 10W30 full synthetic. It's expensive, but it's the only oil anyone should ever use for any vehicle. It's the oil of the gods.
Your tires should wear evenly. If they aren't, your tire pressure is not correct. If there's more wear down the center, you've got too much air. If the wear is at the edges, you need to give them more air. I fill to 35psi.
As far as when you change your tires, you'll know in the S. If it rains, your rear end will wiggle when you go over a puddle. The penny rule is when you stick a penny in the tread. If it touches Abe's head, you've got good tread.
If you want to know when you absolutely need to change them (and I don't recommend waiting this long), then as soon as you see a hint of mesh. The tire can heat up rapidly and undergo what's called "tread separation". Essentially, every tire is made up of layers separated by metal mesh. If the metal touches the ground, it heats up rapidly and will disintegrate the tire. A layer can get wrapped around an axle, hindering your ability to control the car. At highway speeds, the results are usually catastrophic.
♣ = Lute Riley Honda.
http://vtec.net/forums/one-message?message_id=699544
This confirms it. It could very well be a convertible. I think honda wants the S2000 to be a light weight, high revving, sports car.
Anyhow, got a S2000 brochure which says: 2008 Honda S2000. The brochure shows both the S2000 CR and S2000.
I wonder if the S2000 (non-CR) is still being manufactured. Any comments? A few weeks ago I read on this forum that Honda stopped making s2000. Confused?
In addition, what's your experience driving the S2000 for long trip (200-300 miles+)? Is the ride bearable? Is the noise unbearable (top up or down)? Thanks for sharing.
I have not made any 200-300+ trips in one sitting. The furthest distance I've traveled in one sitting was about 100 miles, then a return trip of 100 miles later that same day.
My S is my daily driver and I find it very bearable. When the temperature is between 75 and 85, there is nothing better. My daily commute is 10 miles stop-n-go and then 20 miles of open highway (one way). Noting driving a stick in 6+ years, I can still say the clutch is very light and does not wear out your leg or thigh (I just turned 5000 miles this morning actually). Time for my first oil change!
Personally, I think it is actually quieter with the top down, does anyone else think so too? Back to your 200-300 mile trip, I actually find the trunk to be pretty adequate. I would highly recommend soft-sided luggage though. If your Tach is around 3500rpms, that is referred to as the drone zone. When cruising, I'll keep it lower than 3000 or around 4500 rpm. At 3k, it is quiet and at 4.5k (just a hair below VTECH), I can jump into VTECH in a split second for passing or whatever evasive maneuver I need to perform.
Keep in mind, this is a convertible and will be noisy so what I find bearable, you may find intolerable. I have absolutely NO regrets with my purchase. If you decide to NOT get a convertible or even a different convertible, I wont flame you, much.
I'll be more than happy to answer any additional questions you may have on the S2000. I shopped the Miata (soft and hard top), 350z, Mustang GT, Solstice GXP and the Sky Redline and ultimately decided on the S2000. Just be aware of my bias towards the s2000.
Good luck and let us know what you decide.
I'm wondering if there is going to be a 2008 S2000 (non-CR) for sale at Honda Dealers. It seems Honda listed both the 2008 S2000 CR and the regular S2000 on its 2008 brochure. Honda fits a different wheel (5-spoke) on the regular S2000 and it offers different color options for CR and S2000, respectively.
Any information on the regular 2008 S2000? I don't expect any change in specs but want to know if Honda keeps manufacturing the regular S200o thru the end of calendar year 2008. Thanks.