Nissan Pickup Owners Hangout
A place for everything and everything in its place! Are you a Nissan pickup owner? Or maybe you have questions about Nissan pickups that could be answered by owners with firsthand experience? Well this is the place to post your questions/comments. I had an '87 4x4 King Cab that I ran to 140,000 miles before I traded it in (needed a back seat for the two kids at the time) and I REALLY miss having that truck!
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Your truck may be different from mine and the "speed sensor" that you are referring to may be a different device, which also interfaces with the engine computer. Some vehicles have magnetic speed sensors located close to the crankshaft pulley, for example, Mercedes Benz uses such sensors for the tachometer pickup on their diesel engines.
There is a simple test to determine if the speed sender is defective by removing the sender and doing both a resistance check and output voltage checks on it but I do not know the exact specs (you need to ask the Nissan dealer or look it up in the shop manual). However in your case the computer registers bad speed sensor, which to me indicates that it probably is defective. On my truck the computer did not detect the defective speedometer and I doubt it would detect malfuctioning speed sender.
Has anyone else noticed that the KA24E engine (2.4 liter four) seems to make a few seconds of "lifter rattle" when first started after sitting for a few days? Once it has been started, it won't recur until the truck sits unused for several more days. Do these lifters just normally bleed down after sitting for awhile?
For the speedometer, I had to have mine replaced at 96K miles. It started jumping from 25 mph to 80mph when I was only going about 35mph. Cost me about $350-$400 to have it done. No problems since.
Does anybody know how to boost the power on the engine without having to pay for an overhaul? I am looking to get some more horses and possible better gas mileage. Thanks.
Anybody ever try this? Any ideas?
On the vehcles that I've removed the grab handle from they all had a captured or spot-welded nut to mount the grab handle to.
Regards,
Dusty
Depending on the gender of your passenger....oh, never mind.
Anyway, glad that worked out. At $15 over-the-counter, that little touch would probably have added a whole $7 to the bottom line if they had provided it that way.
Best regards,
Dusty
How have other high mileage Nissan truck owners faired with their auto trans? I'll drive mine a few more years, but I doubt that I'll keep it for seven more years (was trying to get 20 years).
Here are some tips for changing the timing belt:
1. Always align the timing marks per the service manual before removing the old belt
2. Once you remove the old belt, DO NOT cCRANK or turn over the engine, (not even by hand by turning the crankshaft bolt) because the valves will strike the tops of pistons and damage may occur
3. When you remove the old belt, the valve spring tension will cause the cam sprockets to move slightly out of position. You MUST realign these sprockets against the valve spring pressure when slipping the new belt on. Failure to do this is probably the number one cause of improperly installed timing belts. It is usually a good idea to have a helper hold both sprockets in alignment while you slip on the new belt. Chilton's manual recommends removing both valve covers and loosening all rocker arms bolts to relieve the tension on the valve springs to avoid this problem. This is a very tedious process and somehow they forgot the step which would call for the rocker arm reassembly.
4. Some recommend replacing the cam sprocket oil seal and the front camshaft oil seal, as well as the belt tensioner and the water pump when replacing the timing belt. This seems appropriate at every 105k miles. When replacing the cam sprocket and front crank seal, take care not to damage the housing when removing the seals. A good trick is to drill two small holes in the metal part of the seal, and then screwing in two sheet metal screws and then using Vise Grips to pull the seal out. This method will surely prevent damaging the seal housing. Just make sure you are drilling into the old oil seal, not the engine block!
5. The new belt must be tensioned properly to work correctly. There is procedure for correct belt tensioning in the truck service manual. Proper belt tension is best check when applying certain force in the middle of the belt span between the cam sprockets and measuring the deflection as specfied in the shop manual.
6. Once you have installed the new belt and tensioned it correctly, turn the engine over several times manually by turning the front crankshaft bolt. Recheck the timing marks each time and make sure they are aligned correctly when number 1 piston is at TDC. Do this check at least twice (two revolutions of the cranshaft per one revolution of each cam).
7. check the engine base timing after you have assembled all the accessories on the engine. If you installed the belt correctly, the base ignition timing will not change.
Concerning the speedometer on my truck, it quit at 55K miles and I ordered a new speedometer from the dealer, It came preset at 55k miles from the factory and cost me about $ 210. Took about 1/2 hour to install it and I did it myself.
jprice
Does anyone know if the Frontier line has a real sunroof?
Perhaps the '05 Frontier, which is coming out soon, will have a power roof option
I would like to replace the belts myself, but i'm not sure how difficult that task will prove to be.
Thanks!
I'll appreciate if someone can help be to avoid mistake...
thx in advance.
2.4 liter 2 wheel drive automatic??
Does anyone have any experience with this? I was going to remove the other door panel to see the functional assembly but that's my standby plan...
Also, does anyone know where to find technical drawings or exploded views of this essemby without having to pay 400 bucks for the CD/Book on the entire truck? I'm thinking a download of just what I need to know... for a couple bucks does this even exist on the internet??
Thank you fellow Nissan Pickup Owners!
I have a 93 2wd KingCab. One of my fuel lines is leaking, which I hope to fix tomorrow. My question is that I notice there appears to be 3 lines coming from the tank. 1 to the pump and one straight into the tank. I understand that one of the lines carrying the fuel to the engine, the second is a return line. So what is the 3'rd line for. I notice it has a fuel filter/check value on it. Any ideas?
Thanks for any replies
you can't replace the u-joints Nissan stamped them in with a press. had to buy new drive shaft after market one seeing Nissan's is on back order until the end of April. the after market one was cheaper and you can change the u-joints later if needed.
Everything is fixed and the truck is running well thx for caring.
I will NEVER buy another nissan product!
Spend a couple of extra buck and buy a Toyota!!!! My Son has a 2001 Pathfinder and the same story.... Junk!!!!!! Buy a toyota! I have had 3 and no problems.... Fit and finish better and much much more reliable!!!!