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Nissan Pickup Owners Hangout

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  • zanegreyzanegrey Member Posts: 32
    ivan,

    preventive maintinance is the best.
    oil change oil change oil change.
    is they key to engine life..

    if the m/c is not bad do not replace it.
    rotors and drums are measured to see of they are within specification.
    one of the most overlooked parts on the brakes is the slides on the front calipers and the self adjusters on the rears.
  • ivantherussianivantherussian Member Posts: 5
    Basic stuff is pretty much a no brainer. I was just looking for some deeper insights on driving, and maintaining 20 year old rig, plus I thought you guys might know the quirky things about Nissans. I am interested in avoiding break downs at inconvenant times. For example I never would have thought of replacing coolant hoses, just because they are old.

    I had good luck maintaining the seperate systems of my truck. I plan my repairs, to save time, and money.

    Do the frt slides come with loaded calipers? What about the rear adjusters, do they come with standard brake jobs, or does a guy have to ask? So this is good!! I got some good ideas from you. Thanks
  • zanegreyzanegrey Member Posts: 32
    the adjusters are self adjusting.
    just clean them and make sure they are working properly.
    the front slides let the caliper slide back and forth as u use the brakes

    oil changes is the key to engine longevity.
    this truck has a computer under the passenger seat.
    the computer stores codes that can help u in diagnosing problems the truck is having.

    i also have had my truck for 20 years and i have over 500 k miles on it.
  • range_scirange_sci Member Posts: 1
    I've had the speedo assembly fail twice now on my '87 hardbody. It had an aftermarket cruise control on it when I purchased the truck, so I suspected that might have been involved the first time. Now I'm less certain. Chilton's doesn't actually show the assembly that connects at the transmission, so I am not certain what is involved there. Evidence is leading me in that direction, though.
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    As stated right in the posting box, do not include your email address in your posts. It is also against the Membership Agreement to solicit responses for personal gain (sales, etc.).

    We would prefer that questions and snwers be made here in the forums so that others can benefit... it may help someone else who has the same problem.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • ryanceyryancey Member Posts: 42
    Yeah, i am having the same problem. None of the repair manuals that i have looked at have the speedometer assemblys in them. Is changing the assembly as simple as buying the part and swaping it out, or is it more invoved than just swaping?
  • ivantherussianivantherussian Member Posts: 5
    Yeah, I am having the same problem, but mine is sticky. It works, then gets stuck, then works again. I would fix if I had a direction to move in?
  • mikehawkmikehawk Member Posts: 1
    I have a '95 nissan 2wd hardbody regular cab pick up. Have a Raider Vagabond shell on it w/LED molded 3rd brake light. Cannot figure how to plug in 3rd light & where. Have looked under bumper & everywhere but there doesn't seem to be anyplace to plug it in. Also has inside dome light that I think takes batteries. Anyways, any & all help would be much appreciated. Can't seem to find a DIY guide or anything & have even searched this forum w/no luck. Thanks again.
  • ryanceyryancey Member Posts: 42
    Does anyone have any idea on how to fix the speedometer on a 94 nissan 2x4? Do you just need to replace the sensor on the transmission? Do you just need to unscrew it and screw a new one in? Or is it harder than that? Thanks.
  • my84my84 Member Posts: 4
    I have an 84 nissean 4x4 with a z24 under the hood. The choke will not open when truck is warm. When i open it by hand it idles up. I have tried to turn the idle down by hand but it wouldn't work. I hve no idea what to do now. Does anyone have an idea?
  • jag7720jag7720 Member Posts: 1
    I'm looking for a datsun/nissan 4 cylinder diesel engine.

    This is for a datsun 510 project

    Thanks
    Jason
  • sentientpuppetsentientpuppet Member Posts: 6
    Make sure the wire going to the autochoke is connected properly (I had the same problem on my 84 z24 after puting in a new carb). You can also check the auto choke relay with a volt-ohm meter if you have one. If you don't have a manual describing how to do that I can give you further info.
  • my84my84 Member Posts: 4
    Thank you senti. I will do that
  • black84black84 Member Posts: 1
    I NEED ANY ADVICE ON A HEADLIGHT THAT REMAINS DIM.IHAVE REPLACE BOTH AND CHECKED FUSES,RELAYS AND WIRING AND HAVE THIS PROBLEM.HAS ANYONE EXPERIENCED THIS OR HAVE ANY SUGGESTIONS? THANKS! ;);)
  • guitargeek7884guitargeek7884 Member Posts: 2
    I am asking the question on behalf of my 60 year old neighbor who owns a 1989 Nissan King Cab. The problem is the truck will not crank. It turns over but, it will not fire up. The carb is getting the gas and the plugs are receiving fire but, it just will not crank up. He has check everything that he knows to check, I on the other hand am not mechanically inclined enough to figure this out. Give me a guitar amp and I am at home. Put a engine in front of me and I am lost. He lives on a fixed income so if you guys can help me with this problem I would be greatly appreciative. Thanks. :sick:
  • zanegreyzanegrey Member Posts: 32
    if this truck is an 89 nissan truck with a z24 motor that has 8 spark plugs ,then it does not have a carb.
    it has a tbi.

    spray some ether down the tbi and see if it starts..

    then report back..
  • zanegreyzanegrey Member Posts: 32
    jason try www.olddatsunpickuplovers.com
  • zanegreyzanegrey Member Posts: 32
    clean and service the connections and wireharness
  • zanegreyzanegrey Member Posts: 32
    remove the tail light and hook into the brake wire running a new line to your third brake light.
  • noahfnoahf Member Posts: 4
    my 97 kingcab 4x4W/ theKA24E is running rich and devouring mufflers CATS and now I have a cracked ex.manifold.I get small back fires occasionally between shifts. Possibly the injecters?Anyone familiar W/this prblem?
  • noahfnoahf Member Posts: 4
    It's a simple fix.Change the clutch slave cylinder mounted to the tranny.Then if neccesary change the clutch master, located near the brake master.Bleed system like brakes when done.
  • guitargeek7884guitargeek7884 Member Posts: 2
    Zanegrey thanx for the info man. I will try it out and see what happens and will relay what happens back to you. Thanx again.
  • noahfnoahf Member Posts: 4
    Take off the distributor cap and check the rotoran cap for wear.the metal contacts might be so worn out it wont fire up.Sometimes the rotor comes dis-attached from the dist. because the little nut works its way out.Alittle thread lock wil fix that.
  • noahfnoahf Member Posts: 4
    My 97 did the same thing.It was time to change the timing chain.That fixed it.
    AC did the same thing.I had it tightend.It worked.
  • 74firebird74firebird Member Posts: 1
    I had this exact problem on my truck and it turned out to be the coil. Try that.
  • ryanceyryancey Member Posts: 42
    I have a 94 Nissan Pickup with a 2.4L 4 cylinder engine. It has about 150,000 miles on it. It over the period of a year developed a tapping knock in the engine. It turned out that this engine has a overhead cam with hydrolic lifters. One of the hydrolics on one of the valve lifters went out and now the spacing is not correct causing a knocking when the valve is put down. A new rocker arm is $40, and all i need to do is pull the rocker pivot apart and change it out. For Your Information.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,148
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  • batmmannnbatmmannn Member Posts: 2
    Ok this is my first post. Just bought a 87 SEV6 4v4 extended extra cab long bed. When I went to test drive it I was checking out the 4 wheel drive. I was making tight turns in low gear. I was looking at a price of about a grand for the truck which runs great with a leer cab but all rusted to hell. Anyway. I heard a loud bank and then the front wheels started to engage, slip and reengage for no apparent reason very strange. I bought the truck for $500. I also have another one that needed parts so I figured I couldn't go wrong for the money. Now I am trying to figure out which of the trucks is the better to work on. Anyone have any idea what might be the problem with the 4 wheel drive on the one I just bought? Like I said the lights all work when you engage and the wheels seem to catch and then slip and then engage again. This is the same in high gear or low gear when you put it in 4x4. Hopiing it is an easy fix and if I need a part I have it on my other truck whos 4x4 works well but has other problems like knocking motor and broken windshield. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I searched your forum but have not found a similar question. Thanks to all. :confuse:
  • batmmannnbatmmannn Member Posts: 2
    Sounds like the truck is out of time or it has bad comporession. COuld have a problem with the timing due to a slipped timing belt.
  • dselphdselph Member Posts: 1
    My engine has stopped firing on the back two cylinders of the motor. There is no fire going from distributor to the back two cylinders. Could it be that one of the ignition coils has gone bad. I have changed plugs, wires, distributor cap, and rotor button. :cry:
  • zanegreyzanegrey Member Posts: 32
    probably not the coil.

    inside the dizzy is a round disc that has 360 square holes.
    it sounds like u might have blocked some of those holes .

    take the dizzy cap off and spray the disk with air to unblock the holes..

    also check both sides of the spark plug wires the intake and exhuast..

    if you need more info go to my profile and email me directly.

    good luck.
  • anthracitegreyanthracitegrey Member Posts: 3
    A meticulously maintained truck suddenly shows 3 warning lights at one time: Battery, brake, and A/Transmission fluid temp. I checked the brake fluid and the brake power which are both fine. I checked the transmission fluid, it is also full of pristine colored fluid. This left me suspecting electrical so I pulled the alternator and battery and both tested OK at Napa, although I had noticed the battery had been leaking, so I topped up with distilled water.

    Took it for 1 mile drive to test again and the 3 warning lights came on again. I popped the hood to see if there was anything visible and sure enough the battery was bulging along the sides and acid was oozing out through the caps as fast as it could.

    Any ideas? I towed trailer for the first time in the truck's life recently and I am worried that something bad happened to the electrical system.
  • zanegreyzanegrey Member Posts: 32
    if the battery is bulging ,the system is overcherging it.
    so the alternator is faulty.
    since the battery is in flux becoz of overcharging this could coz the lights to give false readings.

    so,,,
    retest altenator while on the vehicle.
    replace battery.
    check all fusible links and terminal ends.
    especially grounds and grounding straps.

    recheck your wiring that goes with any towing add ons..

    good luck
  • dogboye2dogboye2 Member Posts: 1
    I just have a 97 Nissan pickup truck w/ 125000 miles. All winter I have not had a problem.
    Just the other day I was getting off the freeway on an off ramp. I stopped at the light for 40 - 60 sec. When I tried to move after the light turned green. The motor went into "fail safe mode". The motor was still running. But it would not rev. When I put my foot on the gas, it will only rev to 1200 rpm then start to die. I could "fix" the problem by turning off the truck, letting it sit for 10 sec., then re starting it. The "check engine" light came on after the 4th time my truck did this.
    After I took the truck to a shop. I was told that the computer was giving me a "high h2o tempt".
    I have replaced the H20 temp sensor. The truck will still cut out on me.

    What is the fix??
  • anthracitegreyanthracitegrey Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the help. It turned out to be the voltage regulator in the alternator. Voltage is one of the few things not controlled by the computer. A new alternator and battery later I am back on the road.

    One problem with voltage regulators, they go out slowly which is why it tested OK at Napa the first time I hauled it in. After I re-installed it the truck problem soon became immediate. The next time they put it on the tester at Napa, it blew the safety switch immediately.

    Anyone else notice really extreme quantities of dialectric goop on all of their underhood electrical connections in their Nissan? I was quite surprised to find so much of that stuff oozing out of every connection. My understanding is that a dab on each metal connector is quite sufficient.

    Cheers,
    - Jason.
  • rednartsorednartso Member Posts: 1
    I've been reading forum messages this AM, cause I'm looking at a 98' Frontier for sale. I drove the vehicle, which has 170K miles on it. It seems to be in great shape for it's age, but HELLO! the SES light is on. Told the seller, "makes me a little nervous", and besides I can't get it inspected with light on. The poor guy is mechanically challenged, and has spent multi bucks getting ripped off with estimates ranging up to $750. My friend has an analizer, and we'll check it out. I'll post the results if anyone is interested. To be continued.......
  • outback4outback4 Member Posts: 1
    My 1996 pickup with 180000 miles on fail the
    emission test. I was told that the evaporative emission control system pressure sensor malfunction. Even after resetting computer to clear the error after two start ups the error come back. Does anyone have a clue what is causing this?
  • sentientpuppetsentientpuppet Member Posts: 6
    I've been having a problem with my truck cutting out when I get close to full throttle so I was going to use the self diagnosis on the ECU. Well when I looked under the passanger's seat, there was no ECU! only a connector for it with nothing connected. Could this be my problem? do some of the trucks simply not come with an ECU? I don't know much about the computer parts in a car but I would have assumed that the truck wouldn't run without it.
    Can anyone explain this to me?
  • butterflyjonesbutterflyjones Member Posts: 72
    I recently inherited a 1986 nissan k-cab 2.4 auto and would like any recommendations on what maintaince I should do. I already changed the oil and filter and air filter. It runs good and just need recommendations. It sat unused for about 2 years. Does this truck engine have a timing chain or belt??? Its got low miles and I hope it will last many more years. ;):D:)
  • sentientpuppetsentientpuppet Member Posts: 6
    It should have a timing chain, I just had my head rebuilt on my 1984 and the timing chain was still in great condition. I would assume yours is too... I wouldn't go to the trouble of changing it. Its a lot of work.
  • critter1critter1 Member Posts: 104
    Had 2 94's both had to fix 400-$500, dealer parts & labor.
    Nissan should have at least lent assitance since it is a defect for sure. :confuse:
  • ryanceyryancey Member Posts: 42
    Was is the speed sensor that they had to replace? I need to know so i can fix my truck
  • critter1critter1 Member Posts: 104
    There were 2 parts to replace. Go to MSN Auto webb site and lookup the Nissan for your year. It's been awhile but I think thats where I saw it. If I get a chance I'll post back if I'm right about that site. It has repair histories on tons of vehicles. But yes I think speed sensor was one of parts. The thing I remmeber was a noise in the dash for about a month before it just quit. If you don't hear that I wouldn't worry. :D
  • critter1critter1 Member Posts: 104
    Looks like only 94-95 years have speedometer problem if yours isn't one of those years don't worry about it. MSN is still good for Reliability reports,I highly recommend it. CHOW! ;)
  • ryanceyryancey Member Posts: 42
    Right, mine is a 94 pickup and my speedometer doesnt work. I just am looking for what part or parts to replace to make it work again.
  • critter1critter1 Member Posts: 104
    What you need will most likely be dealer parts.
  • raygun3000raygun3000 Member Posts: 2
    My truck died as well. I also bought a new fuel assembely replaced fuse, and the works it turned out that I had no power to the pump. I ended up doing a volt check from The computer under the passenger seat to the tank and I had a broken wire in between the tank plug and the computer. I just ended up replacing the wire for the power. hope this is helpful
  • raygun3000raygun3000 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1995 nissan kingcab 4x4 V6 and I have a very tired 3.0L (360,000) I am looking to replace it. I was wondering if anybody knows if one of these 2 motors will fit in my truck. VG30DE out of a 92 300zx 24V, or a 3.3l supercharged VG33ER or if I have to make any major modifications to fit it in there or if I should just give up and burnit or just put another 3.0l in it
  • badnessbadness Member Posts: 242
    for what its worth I had a 89,witch was great and then a 93 witch was the a great year with 260hundred Mi's on it ,man that truck was just so good to me,never had a prob. with it just normal stuff oil change and ball joints but everyone who ownes a truck know they go,that was a one of the best years next to this years truck2005,I love my CC4WD V6 ,have a tri-fold cover on it. :)
  • wildchildjwwildchildjw Member Posts: 1
    i have the same problem have you fixed yours if so if you coud give info on what it was i would greatly appreciate it thanks
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