Today i went looking for a truck, a beater upper to load my lawn mower in. Found a 92 as described above but it has 300,000 miles. It will cost 1,979. It seemed to run good. It was quiet. No knocks, pings, or exhaust leaks. It seemed like the shifter worked good. What do you guys think about this truck? Even with the high miles, it seems like it runs like a top. Oil light goes out before enginge even starts. The only thing I noticed was that the fuel pump was loud. What kind of repairs can i look for. I really like it.
I HAVE A 1995 NISSAN P.U. 4 X 4 AUTOMATIC TRANSIMISSION, THE TRUCK RUNS BUT SEEMS TO BE STUCK IN HIGH AND WILL NOT DOWN SHIFT, I'VE TAKEN IT TO 3-4 TRANSMISSION SHOPS, THEY ALL SAY I NEED TO REBUILD IT. COULD IT JUST BE A KICKDOWN SOLENOID
Depending on the tranny, there may or may not be a kickdown solenoid. Buy a haynes manual for your application and look. The TCC or torque converter clutch solenoid may not be disengaging. Otherwise, you are ready for a rebuild or a new one.
I just got a 97 XE 4x4 and after a 400 mi. highway trip my check engine light lit up (at about 300 mi.). B4 I take it to the shop, you know how that works, I would like to know if you ever figured out what was up, and what I need to know.
I just got an 1986 nissan p/u 4x4 manual. It jerks intermittently from standing still to start on the first gear or after shifting to the 2nd, applies the gas. It's similar to your description. At times coasting at the 5th gear, it seems like loss of power for a quarter of second resulting in unsmoothness or jerky sensation. All these are intermittent and do not have consistence with anything. Would it be the throttle position sensor problem? Any comments?
Pain in the butt they squeal,nothing really serious need cleaned and pads lubed on back! Owned 94 4x2 & 94 4x4 both had this issue. Brotherinlaw has my old 4x2 94 and has to do this periodicaly. It has 180,000 miles and still gett'in up.
I have a 1992 nissan pickup 2.4l. There should be two silver tabs that should line up with the timing marks. The camshaft and the crank shaft key ways should be up.
I recently acquired a 86 hardbody pu and am starting to do some prevent. man. on it. I changed the plugs on the right side and would like any help on how to get to the left side of the engine. After taking out the air filter and the larg e bolts holding the housing on I saw that there is a hose with a fine ribbed texture on the right side that is connected to the air cleaner assembly that goes into the exhaust maniffold. This hose is not removable and I think it has something to do with pollution control???? HOW DO YOU GET to the plugs on the left side without tearing something up??? By the way this truck only has 62k miles on it and I inherited it from my dad who bought it new and he never did anything but oil changes and batteries and maybe an air filter.After changing the right side plug I took it out for a spin and now notice the tach is jumping up and down irraticly any suggestions???? :sick:
Ur 1986 Nissy is Possesed!!! Quick, park it in a field, pile brush around it and douse with gasoline. Light with a long match and run! Burn that ole devil out Ur truck........ Just kidding, I have no idea how to get to those plugs. U might want to drop by the local dealer and ask the service guy..... :shades:
hey guys My fuel pump on my 91 is so loud i can hear it in the cab. I changed the fuel filter but no help. Fuel pressure is fine so i know its not gonna go. Does anyone else have loud ones. Mine sounds like a constant hissing. It is the loudest when the key is turned to on. Any suggestions?
I finally got the left side plugs changed. They were a pain in the knuckles but I'm glad they are done. Now does anyone have any info on what causes the horn not to work??? This truck I inherited and it didn't have much maintence done on it, so I'm slowly trying to get it going... Thanks Guys. :shades:
A national newspaper is looking to interview consumers who have decided to hold on to their current pickup truck, rather than purchasing a new one. Please send an e-mail to ctalati@edmunds.com no later than Wednesday, August 9, 2006 by 2:30 PM PT/5:30 PM ET containing your daytime contact information and what pickup truck you currently own.
I've owned a 97 since new, problem code po443, evaporative emission control system, purge control valve, circuit malfunction, replace a few parts, problem still persists, anybody with any ideas? will be grateful, thanks!
I had a mechanic to drive it. He drove around our neighborhood and tried to reproduce the jerks. But he could not reproduce the jerks at all... I then realize that it has to do with the way I drive. I tend to drop the clutch that causes the rpm ups and downs. For an old truck, it is easy to jerk. I earn that as long as I work on the clutch and the gas to keep rpm steadily and smoothly all the way up. I could eliminate the jerking problem in the 2nd gear-- interestingly I had jerking problems in both first and 2nd gear before; now I only need to work on the 2nd gear... I have a 2005 subaru GT (turbo charged) which is the fist car ever I drive manual transmission in a daily basis. Really, it is the car I learn to drive a manual one. Well, with a strong engine of the subaru, whatever I drive it goes... Because of this truck, I learn to be a "better driver" on a manual. Now I drive much more smoothly on my subaru GT. I guess there is a little fraud on this truck but I could work around it.
My truck has 130,150 miles on it. It's solid. There are many positive users' reports you could find on the web... I truly believe it's reliable and worth to keep it. BTW, I only paid little for the truck... it's a good buy... we will see.
In the other hand, I drive me subaru for work. The truck is for my leisure. So I guess it depends on what you are going to use the one you're looking into with 177,000 miles of a '86 pickup.
I own an 84 nissan ext cab. I want to lift it but I can only find a 2.5" lift. I heard something about a certain Toyota lift would work with some mods. Does anyone know about this?
After about a month, my light went out. Don't know why, or how. I never did anything to it. No one seems to know why the 97 year seems to have this problem, but it never seemed to have a bad affect on my 97's performance, or mileage. There seems to be a couple of other problems like rattles that sound like lifters that come up allot too, mine has them also, if you know what they are let me know.
How high are you wanting to go? Nissan suspensions don't like to go too high, or they will break allot of things! 2 inches of suspension is about the max if you don't want to replace a lot of parts, I would recommend a "very COMPLETE" 3 inch body lift with all the brackets. Don't skimp on it, it'll cost you in the long run. The two will give you a 5 inch jump, and let you run 35 in. tires with little trouble.
so far I have replaced purge valve, (brand new) problem still the same, like you said,it does not affect performance,but it gets on my nervs to see the stupid light on,as for the lifters, I think it may be that after 7to 9 years of good service, the spring inside them is getting weaker,so, probably a good idea to replace them along with the timing chain, (P.S.) Nissans have a timing chain,Toyotas have a timing belt,in my opinion that's why toyotas have a smoother ride, but nissans hold a bigger payload, hope to have being of help.
I'll give you two sites you can visit, 2carspros.com & mitchellautorepair.com, you will get the codes from this sites,but they won't tell you where the part is located under the hood or, what it looks like,I happened to own the OBDII so I retrieve the codes my self, but, I'm still blind as a bat, nobody seems to know or want to help you with it, give it a shot, let me know if it helped, good luck!
I own a 95 nissan pickup and the driver's side headlight suddenly stopped working. I replaced the sealed beam and that didn't fix the problem. I tested the light on the passenger side and it works fine so i know it's not the light itself but i just can't seem to figure out the problem. I checked the fuse and it's fine and every connection i could find was plugged in. I hate to buy a new switch when that may not be the problem. If anyone can help me it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
My brake lights will not turn off which has obviously drained the battery. I have never had an elctrical problem before. This happens when the truck is turned off, no keys in the ignition, no emergency brake on etc. Does anybody have any thoughts on this one? Thanks!
i could do it in about 20 minutes,so i would not call it a major repair. the switch is on the upper part of the brake pedal . as you put your foot on the pedal the switch is released . so your switch is not contacting it's resting (or off)platform.(or is broke all together..) it might be a matter of just being unscewed from it's holding place.. you have to lay on your back w/a flashlight and look up under the dash(follow the brake pedal up)
Thanks for the detailed information. I'm not much of a mechanic, but boards like this have helped me to find the simplicity and major cost savings on some simple fixes. I'm a pretty big guy, so trying to get under the dash was a big task for me just to see. I couldn't imagine trying to function with tools in their. I appreciate the advice! Have a great day.
Upon initial acceleration there is a short surge then a momentary hesitation. After that it's fine. Also in a low gear at slow constant speed the engine has a slight surge. The engine idles well and seem to run well other then that. It's not a big problem but annoying when in traffic. Any ideas?
I was driving lastnight, all the dash lights flickered then shut off, the instrument panel isn't working either. The only lights I've got on the truck that are working are my headlights, thats it nothing else, There are no blown fuses, I can't see any Burnt wires anywhere. I'm kinda lost in the dark here, literally. Luckily I had the GF with me and her truck to escort me home...... so all I can say is HELP
I inherited an 83 nissan pu 4 cyl. stick, carb., my dad took it to 6 mechanics to find the problem, they could'nt figure it out. Heres whats going on: I drove it for about a week no prob. then it died while driving. Tryed starting it acted like it was'nt getting enough gas. it turned over and shook real hard. For some reason i thought of vapore lock, went out loosened it and (ppsssstt) and it started. Then a couple days later it died, same thing, except would'nt start. after a couple days we got it started w/ starting fluid. Changed everything we can think of, and it drives a little rough. any sudgestions. HELP unpredictable
I figured out the problem, Nissan has some wierd connectors up by the battery, One of the wires I had previously repaired with solder broke loose causing me to lose power to everything. I rewired Nissan's little bull---- wiring job on there, They had 2 larger wires coming together into 2 small wires which went to the terminal. I replaced the two smaller wires with one big wire and everything works great now.
I want to add cruise control to my 2004 XE (12,000 mi) in order to drive it comfortably across the country so my son can use it while I'm living downtown for several months. My dealer says that Nissan no longer installs aftermarket cruise. Does anyone have advice on this matter?
My 94 Nissan 4cyl pickup had a hydrolic lifter go out. The bottom of it that touches the valve stem blew apart. It was a $40 part to get the rocker arm for it and it took 1/2 hour to fix. Just take off the valve cover, undo 2 bolts that hold the rocker arms, slide them off put on the new one, slide them back on and put it back together. It was very simple to fix the noisy rocker arm. I was able to tell which rocker arm it was because when the engine was off I could tap the rocker on the valve, while the others that were good were all tight against the valve stem.
Thanks for the advice. I'll have to check it out. Oh, the check engine light came back on after I was forced to put ARCO gas in it. I checked my records, and the last time that it went on was after I filled up with ARCO. I checked with a mechanic and he said that ARCO uses a lot of ethenal in it and that may be the reason the computer is getting incorrect info. Just a thought.
My 97 King Cab makes a "klunk" sound after transmission is placed normally in first gear and am driving away from my driveway, but only on cold mornings. It makes two or three klunk sounds, and are not heard afterwards. Haynes Nissan Manual Item 53 under "Trouble Shooting" advises checking for disconnected rear suspension components; checking all mounting bolts and bushings; checking for loose driveshaft bolts, inspecting all bolts and nuts and tightening them securely; checking for worn or damaged universal joint bearings; checking worn sleeve yoke and mainshaft spline, and checking for defective center bearing of insulator. I took a good look but saw nothing loose. I am especially puzzled since the sound only happens when the temperature is around 50 degrees Fahrenheit or lower. The transmission is not shifting out of gear. Anybody had the same problem.
:confuse: :confuse: My 1986 Nissan King cab has an erratic tach. It does well for 20 minutes or so until the truck gets warm then it quits working, what could be causing this?? It quit practically all summer long but has been working some this fall as the temperature has fallen. IS this an electrical issue?? IS there any danger of fire with continued use??? With it only getting 20 mpg for now it doesn't get driven much or very far. Any help would be appreciated.
I have a '95 4x4 2.4L. Iclobbered a deer the other day (more like he clobbered me) he walked a way with hardly a scratch, but smashed to halogen lights that are on my bumper. They were there when I bought the car used. I think I will just do away with them since they haven't work for a while anyway. I want to disconnect them, but keep the small lights above the windsheild. These don't seem to go into the fuse box at all and I'm having trouble tracking back the wires... any ideas? Also, I have recently been driving more on the highway and have noticed the truck seems a bit under powered when I get to hills even if I shift down (like second or third gear) and have my foot to the floor I have trouble keeping it at 60 - 65. Has anybody elses had this problem? Could it be a worn clutch? Maybe the 4cyl engine is to small for this truck... wish I had a 6cyl. Finally, I just wanted to know if anybody has had trouble with the frame of their 199- truck. I read somewhere else that the frames are rusting from the inside out on many modles. I had a sizeable hole patched under the passanger side door. Hope it fixes it for a while... can't afford a new truck yet. Thanks.
I have a 1997 Nissan King Cab. It is a 4 by 4 with a 2.4 liter engine. I bought the truck in February of this year and it had 144,000 miles. It now has 148,000. I'm satisfied with it's show room condition and have accepted the fact that it is under powered. With regard to your question about power, unfortunately, it doesn't have enough to propel you uphill at Interstate Highway speeds. Mine behaves the same as yours. Here in New Mexico driving from Albuquerque to Santa Fe requires going through what we call La Bajada. This is a stretch of Interstate 25 of about five miles with a grade of let's say 4 to 5 percent, a rate of climb of 4 to 5 feet vertical to every 100 feet of horizontal road. My truck which is perfectly tuned, i. e., new spark plugs, new spark plug wires, new distributor cap and rotor, new fuel, air, and oil filters, new motor oil, and new oils in both differential, transmission, and transfer case; can only do about 50 mph up La Bajada. Yep, it is under powered. However, it does give me 17 to 18 mpg in the city, and 20 to 21 mpg on the open road. My previous Ford F250,and my current 1971 Dodge W200 (4 by 4)by contrast only did 9 and 10 mpg respectively.
Comments
Thanks.
Mark
My fuel pump on my 91 is so loud i can hear it in the cab. I changed the fuel filter but no help. Fuel pressure is fine so i know its not gonna go. Does anyone else have loud ones. Mine sounds like a constant hissing. It is the loudest when the key is turned to on. Any suggestions?
93/94 years.
will be grateful, thanks!
My truck has 130,150 miles on it. It's solid. There are many positive users' reports you could find on the web... I truly believe it's reliable and worth to keep it. BTW, I only paid little for the truck... it's a good buy... we will see.
In the other hand, I drive me subaru for work. The truck is for my leisure. So I guess it depends on what you are going to use the one you're looking into with 177,000 miles of a '86 pickup.
Good luck!
kcram - Pickups Host
Does anybody have any thoughts on this one?
Thanks!
the switch is on the upper part of the brake pedal .
as you put your foot on the pedal the switch is released .
so your switch is not contacting it's resting (or off)platform.(or is broke all together..)
it might be a matter of just being unscewed from it's holding place..
you have to lay on your back w/a flashlight and look up under the dash(follow the brake pedal up)
good luck
I appreciate the advice! Have a great day.
Thanks,
Also, I have recently been driving more on the highway and have noticed the truck seems a bit under powered when I get to hills even if I shift down (like second or third gear) and have my foot to the floor I have trouble keeping it at 60 - 65. Has anybody elses had this problem? Could it be a worn clutch? Maybe the 4cyl engine is to small for this truck... wish I had a 6cyl.
Finally, I just wanted to know if anybody has had trouble with the frame of their 199- truck. I read somewhere else that the frames are rusting from the inside out on many modles. I had a sizeable hole patched under the passanger side door. Hope it fixes it for a while... can't afford a new truck yet. Thanks.