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Nissan Pickup Owners Hangout



  • low720low720 Posts: 3
    I just purchased a 1985 720 King Cab 4 cyl 5 speed trans, the previous owner had done some mods to it in order to get more power out of it such as Excel coils, weber carb conversion, high output wires. When i purchased the truck it was running rough came to find out he had two exhaust wires crossed. That made it run alot better but still having some hesitation on take off and when shifting (figure that the Weber needing a tune). My major problem is though when I shut it off the engine continues to turn for a about a minute or two, shaking alot, then you hear a loud hissing sound like air or exhaust being expelled. I found the distributor is missing a bolt so I'm sure the timing is not on could this be the cause to this problem? Any help is greatly appreciated!!!!! :confuse:
  • truck2truck2 Posts: 2
    There is a slipring in the steering column that let's the electrical connections go to steering wheel without wires getting wrapped around while you turn the wheel. It went bad in my truck also, I bypassed the horn, but haven't yet bothered to replace the whole ring.
  • truck2truck2 Posts: 2
    For the last year my truck has been having trouble shifting out of first and into second when it is cold. If I let it warm up, it shifts relatively fine (sometimes it still hesitates or jerks before shifting). My boss had a similar problem on his chevy van and just needed to replace a governor gear. Is there a similar fix for my problem?
  • My truck has about 100K miles. Only mods are 4" lift and 32/11.5R tires on 15" wheels. On and off for the past 6 months, when I slow down to a stop (regardless of whether the clutch is in or out, or the brake pedal is being pushed or not, and regardless of whether I am coasting or pushing the gas pedal) there is a squealing sound that seems to come from the front/center of the truck. This sound volume decreases as I slow down, and always stops when I am at a full stop. When I start up again the squealing starts up, but not always. And if it does start up, it can go away all by itself in a few blocks. This sound occurs most often after I have driven on the highway for 20 min or more, or it is really hot outside. I have had the brakes checked by 2 different places, and they see nothing wrong. Because the sound always goes away when I am stopped and idling, it has nothing to do with the engine or belts. My guess would be something to do with wheels or bearings, or some aspect of the drivetrain that stops turning when the truck is stopped. I have changed both front and rear differential fluids, the tranny fluid, the transfer case fluid, the clutch fluid, and brake fluid. No luck. Any help would be appreciated. Otherwise it is a great truck.
  • low720low720 Posts: 3
    Those peski ball joints can be a pain but with a little patience and some muscle they will come out:
    1) Jack up your truck remove the front wheels
    2) Place a jack or stand under the lower control arm to take the weight off the assembly
    3) Loosen but DO NOT remove the upper ball joint nut
    4) Using a ball joint seperator tool (looks like a small real thick C clamp) unpress the ball joint from the spindle you can rent this tool from some autoparts stores or purchase one costs about 15 to 30 bucks or make one from a long bolt, nut, washer and deep socket! Screw the nut onto the bolt slide the washer onto the bolt AFTER the nut, slide the threaded part of the bolt into the deep socket keeping the washer between the nut and the bolt so the bolt and nut dont fall into the socket now position and adjust your fabed tool between the upper and lower ball joint nuts. The head of the bolt on your tool should be against the loosened upper ball joint nut and the socket end of the tool should rest on the lower ball joint nut.
    5) start loosening the nut on your tool so it pushes down on the socket and pushes the bolt up against the upper ball joint nut the upper ball joint will now pop out of the spindle
    6) Reverse your tool (place it upside down) and follow the same steps for the lower one once they are both out of the spindle take the nuts off them
    7) Use a wire or something of the sort and tie the spindle assembly off to the side BECAREFUL not to bend the brake lines too much
    8) unbolt the 3 or 4 nuts on the joints, that hold the ball joints onto the control arms
    9) Ball joints should be out now!!!!! :D
  • low720low720 Posts: 3
    I had the same problem on my 1990 Pathfinder and on my 1987 Hardbody!!! I too noticed that my noise got louder or happened more often when i drove on a hot day then when i drove on a cold morning. There's a couple things that fixed my squealing. On the 4x4 pathfinder all i had to do was grease all the fittings, change the inner and outter wheel bearings, and the rubber donuts on the top and bottom of the rear coil springs.
    On the 2x2 Hardbody i again greased all the fittings changed inner and outter wheel bearings but this time i had to swap out the rear leafs for new ones I had lowered the truck and that caused my old rusty leafs to develop hairline cracks that caused a squeaking noise in the back 24-7 it got louder on hot days cause metal expands and it was causing metal to metal rubbing within those cracks.
    On both trucks i when i greased and changed the bearings the squeeling noise i had in the front stopped. Remember metal expands when its hot and lubrication thins out with heat and friction. On hot days where there wasn't enough grease and lube there was metal to metal contact especially on the bearings rubbing against the worn races. This tends to happen most often on vehicles that have suspension mods due to the added strain and the change of the suspension angles. good luck pal hope that helps
  • I'm having the same problem with my 95 pickup. There doesn't seem to be any power to the regular headlights but I can get the high beams to work on the right side. Fuses are fine. Was wondering if you had any luck with yours.
  • I have a 92 Hardbody and it was making a similar noise on startup. I had the water pump replaced and the service tech said that was the problem. The seep hole on the water pump leaks directly on the belts so when started up the belts sqeaked and sqawked like I was killing a cat. After the engine would warm up and noise would stop yet the AC still would sqeal as I was running down the road. I never had any overheating problems to tell me the water pump was going out just some drops of water on the pavement. Hope this helps.

  • Does anyone know of a website that carries exterior and interior parts for Nissan Hardbodys?
  • 85_kc85_kc Posts: 2
    If you notice that it takes ALOT of gas to get your vehicle, the Nissan King Cab 2WD from 1985 with a Z24 engine, the problem is the clutch. This causes massive loss of fuel economy and major wear on head gaskets and engine in general, due to the excessive amounts of RPM's needed to get the vehicle to "creep" forward from a dead stop. Now then, MY dilemma is i don't know how to adjust a clutch for this particular vehicle. Anyone with useful information AT ALL would be of much help. :confuse:
  • 85_kc85_kc Posts: 2
    Unfortunatley for Nissan and Toyota, not many people make after-market items for their vehicles . . . However i would try Advance Auto Parts' website or maybe Google it?
  • wylee1wylee1 Posts: 4
    I need help...I have installed a new timing chain guide, all went well and now I am putting the oil pump and distributor back in. I find TDC on the first piston put the oil pump in with the oil hole and the punch mark in line, I put the distributor in making sure it is pointing to the number one firing point. When I start the engine I get piston slap and cannot adjust the timing to the timing marks. All this is done according to the HAYNES manual. What is going wrong?? I have tried this about 7 times and I get the same sad results. Can anyone help with this?
    PS. the old guide disappeared and is now small bits of plastic coming out in very frequent oil changes. The replacement guide is now a plastic and metal combination that looks different than the original but bolts in just fine.
  • Hey low720, thanks for the tips! I suspected front bearings too. Any idea how much I should have to pay at a dealer or brake shop to have the inner and outer front bearings repacked with grease?
  • Hello all

    I have had a few sleepless nights with wondering what I am doing wrong. :sick: Now I see that the timing chain (shinny link) is not on the sprocket mark. :blush: This would indicate to me that the chain has jumped a few cogs, when I pulled my truck under cover to do the timing chain guide it was running fine with the noise of a slapping chain of course, but other than that it was fine. Can the truck run fine if the chain has jumped?????
  • I am having a problem with my 1993 Nissan Pickup (4 cylinder). The truck starts and runs for several days, and then like a bolt out of the blue, it burns a fuse and refuses to start. We've rebuilt the wiring harness and replaced the fuel pump, and the only thing we can think of that's left to do is change to a new "sending unit". Did you find one for your truck? Did you find out if a sending unit from other models will work? Where did you find your sending unit? And what was the price? If you can reply, I would greatly appreciate it.
  • I replaced the transfer case on my 84 nissan pick up and I'm trying to put the shift-lever back on with the stud but its not fitting right. Any tips? thanks
  • I have a 1990 Kingcab and have just gone through the same thing. I'm sure by now you have the bolts out...need a skinny hand to help's very tight in there. The Haynes book wants you to drop and remove everything from here to there. I got mine off without removing any of the 4x4 stuff. I had the drivers side chain guide break off and the engine ate it (plastic). The replacement is both metal and plastic totaly different but bolts in nice. That all went well but now I can't set the timing. Oil pump and distributor are going in as per the book and TDC but I can't set the timing. How did you make out with it??
  • I'm changing my water pump on my 87 V6. I'm down to the last nut that's on the end of the drive shaft, behind the belt pullys. How do I keep the motor from turning while I remove the nut? And does the nut loosen counter clockwise? BTW it's an automatic..
  • I have an 87 XE PU and the low fuel warning and hand brake lights stay on all the time. Any thoughts as to the cause?
  • I have 1987 nissan king cab with a z24 (50,000 miles). It sometimes has trouble returning to a low idle after starting. It likes to stay at about 1500 rpm's and when it returns to the idle it fluctuates up or down about 100 rpms. It will also hesitates when I excelerate hard at about 3500 rpms. It could be a lot worse and at this point it is more agravating than it is a problem but I am afraid it will only get worse. I have recently put new plugs, plug wires, fuel filter, air filter, and distributor cap. The problem also seems to be worse when the gas tank get closer to empty (less than 1/4 tank. This leads me to believe it has something to do with the fuel pump. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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