Nissan Pickup Owners Hangout

tiff1

i have a 97se 4x4 thought i needed mass air flow sensor so i replaced it however it was not my problem so i have a used one that works that i would be willing to sell for much less than a new one if interested email me tes410@aol.com

tiff1

i have a 97 pickup if you let the rpms get @3000 the truck bogs right down checked fuel filter all sensors cat checked injectors distributor cant seem to figure out the problem any suggestions would be greatly apprecated

gdantzler

I am having the exact same problem. The dealer has had the truck 31 days and I have had enough excuses about back ordered parts.
If you have solved your problem could you email me at my address :nemo9980@yahoo.com

tedster39

I just got another instrument cluster,the one you got has a problem with a resister thats suppose to change the voltage from 12 to 7.I couldnt find anybody that could fix it,I found a cluster online at a savage yard,one from a 99 or 00 fits also,hope that helps

gdantzler

thanks I will try to find the resistor

tankerbelle

can anyone tell me how to remove the fuel pump on my 2003 nissan frontier? it sounds pretty easy, figured there may be a trick to it. thanks!
jodi

gatekeepa1

my '97 kingcab has 211K miles on it, and has had an engine rattle since about 176K. I've had a mechanic replace some brackets, etc. that hold the brake fluid tubes on the firewall in the engine compartment...still rattles. So, I had a dealership replace components and use some "shop supplies", which looked like black putty to secure more brackets...still rattles. The truck rattles for about 3 secs on every cold start...it sounds like a woodpeck pecking on metal. Ocassionally, it will rattle when the AC is on and I'm trying to accelerate hard. I'm at a loss for what needs to be repaired. Please help!

don42157

I have an '04 Titan and want to install an aftermarket dual exhaust system...looking for comments, ideas on brands, noise levels...basically anything and everything anyone has expeianced. Thanks.

don42157

Just thought of another question...has anyone found an aftermarket performance chip that is available? The only thing I have come across is a place (that I don't recall) on the west coast that would re-program your computer according to what you had on the vehicle, intake, exhaust, etc., but you had to remove the computer and send it to them which scares me.

ryancey

The rattle when you start is the valve lifters gaining oil pressure, it is perfectly normal. as for when you are accelerating hard?? your valve lifters could be getting worn out, but no worry.

rbc1

I just purchase the above pickup, though owners manual is in Japanese. Anyone know where I might find an english version. Considering biodiesel conversion...so any advice or website links would also be appreciated.

Thanks,
Bruce

vending101

I just bought a 2004 Titan 4x4 with 68k miles. It has almost new tires. They're Goodyear Wrangler SR/A's. They're not very aggressive at all.

The loud humming noise sounds like i'm driving with mud terrain tires. I've owned alot of truck. I've owned many different types of All Terrains and mud terrains. there's no reason i could think of that there should be so much noise. I'm hoping that's all it is. The salesman said his 07 titan has road noise like that but good grief, this is crazy. I can accept that fact that it could be road noise if i had some other tire on but this is silly.

It's this common for these trucks or tire type?

guy69

Does anyone know if there is a master relay or fuse that controls the entire dashboard lighting circuitry? None of my dashboard lights work in my 1991 Nissan basic pickup, so I haven't been able to drive it after dark. Any assistance will be greatly appreciated.

8ball2

I know when I've removed my instrument cluster nothing lights up if the dimmer adjustment module isn't plugged in all the way. On my 1993 it's located on the left by the vent. Maybe it's the wiring or you need a new module

guy69

It makes sense, but where would the "dimmer adjustment module" be located at? I know where the dimmer turn-knob switch is (In the dashboard at the lower left of the steering wheel), but if there is a separate module that controls the dimmer, would you have any idea what it looks like and/or whereabouts in the vehicle it is located?
Thanks for your reply.

gbabcock69

Hello Folks,
I have a 1993 Nissan Pickup with the 4cyl KA24E engine in it. It ran very well for 100-Thousand miles but then the plastic timing chain tension guide broke (the long one on the right side of the upper timing chain as your looking from the front of the engine) and needs to be replaced. The engine will still start and run but it is rough and obviously out of time.
Question is: Do I have to pull the engine out of the truck body to repair this or can it be done with the engine still mounted in the truck?
The Haynes Repair Manual I got shows what I believe to be a Nissan car with the engine in a horizontal mounting position so I can see by that that the engine would have to be removed for servicing the timing chain components but I am not sure with the inline mounting of the pickup. If I remove the radiator and the hardware on the front of the engine, can this be repaired easily without removing the engine????
THANKS for ANY input!!!!!
GBABCOCK

zanegrey

the engine does not have to be removed to do this work..

cobra77

I have a '97 Nissan standard 4 x 2 pickup. I bought it new and now it has 185k on it. This stripped down truck( I didn't even get a back bumper!), has been an absolute dream. I realized the other day when I bought a new battery that I am still on the original alternator! I use this truck a great deal as I deliver blood for the American Red Cross and am often 100 miles from home. I feel like I'm playing with fire here. Has anyone else had their alternator last this long? I'm thinking about replacing it before I'm stranded from home on some dark winter night. What say you all? Thanks.

plantpotter

I have an '86.5 (yes, EIGHTY) that I bought new. (I had to pay extra for the bumper even back then!) I replaced the alternator for the first time last summer at about 160,000. Based on my experience with Nissan products - I'd probably just keep driving. But if you're really concerned, the alternator is simple to replace and not terribly expensive for the peace of mind. FYI... We also have a '94 Altima with about 125,000 still with the original alternator. I realize there are no 'guarantees' but everything checked out 'okay' by our Nissan dealer when we turned it over to my daughter this month to drive back and forth to college. Best Wishes with your Nissan and may God bless you in your work for the Red Cross.

cobra77

Thanks for the advice. You know how things go though, the alternator will most likely go out 100 miles from home, not 10. Even Nissan was impressed with how long its lasted. I'm leaning towards "piece of mind." Thank you for the kind words. The Red Cross is an excellent organization.

quinn2

I just get a Frontier 4WD SE Crew Cab, running great.

The shot bed has bedliner, do I still need to buy a bed mat in order to carry some hard stuff (like paver)?

Thanks.

obyone

Hard plastic or sprayed in? If it's sprayed in just watch for those pallets. It will rip them specially if some of those nails are sticking out.

cubcadet

After reading the manuel on my 07 Frontier,they say to have dealer check oil. That was after I found they bolt dipstick .Phil.

cubcadet

Do you think bed could rust, after time on a hard plastic liner,from water in between bed and liner? Phil.

obyone

Sold the truck in 2006. I had to remove the liner before I sold it and there was no rust after 15 years only a couple scuff marks.

baldgeorge

I would like to convert Nissan pickup from 6 lug wheels to 5 lug wheels for racing. I can get Aero wheels in 5 lug. I have heard about using Toyota front hubs but I'm not sure which ones or how to convert the rear wheels. Money is important, so I want to use "off the shelf" stock parts.

cmmack

We had a 2004 titan until last week. We hit a driver that ran a red light. We hit her with the front passenger side of the truck. Neither airbag deployed. We were traveling about 55. The car has been totaled by the insurance company. Anyone else have this problem? We contacted Nissan they are going to have someone contact us.

airmech

FYI,
I have a '93 Nissan Pickup (just turned 150,000 miles) and it has original alternator. I check the output at oil changes (3000 mile intervals) and it is still putting out 13.5 vdc. It has a 5 speed manual transmission and still has original clutch. The only work I have had to do to it besides PM is brakes (twice), change a relay for a start problem (twice), tires (twice), replace the tailgate latch, and replace the left tail light assembly because I rolled back on a hill and hit a tree.

I do have a front end shimmy that recently developed and I think the ball joints may need replacing. That's what brought me to this forum.

I bought it used in '95 from a friend and use it as a truck, if you know what I mean. No babying this vehicle. It looks a little rough but it is mechanically sound because I do regular PM.

Cheers,
Airmech

KCRam

Airbags do not deploy as a result of impact, but rather as a result of a severe change in g-forces. If you hit something that "gives" and your vehicle continues at speed, there's not going to be deployment. On the other hand, if your vehicle comes to a near-instantaneous stop or has a rapid directional change as in being severely hit from the side, the bags will deploy.

kcram - Pickups Host

cubcadet

What can I expect for MPG, around town. Thanks.

condorski

I have a used 97 and changed the belt at 160,000 thinking it was done at 80,000. It cost me about $400.00 and had the water-pump, top and bottom radiator hoses checked out since he had to remove these anyway. The next time I'll be doing it will be at 240,000, (I'm at 220,000 now.), I figure better safe.

condorski

I have a 97 4x4 with a V6 with 220,000 miles on it and going strong. I change the oil religiously at 3000 miles. I started hearing a ticking noise from the engine right before i needed the oil change and it used to stop afterwards. As time went on, I started adding a thickening agent to the oil; this helped a lot. But as a former gearhead hot rodder, I realized that this could not be good for the lifters, so i stopped. Recently, I changed to an all synthetic oil: AmsOil. The noise was quiet for some time but has returned. I know the lifters are self-adjusting; is this where the noise is coming from? Gas mileage is the same when I bought it used 7 years ago. And it does not leak oil and in 3000 miles it seems to burn a quarter of a quart or less. How could i silence this noise without harming the engine or without taking it apart or is it just a normal Nissan noise?

condorski

Mysteriously and randomly my 97 4x4 automatic would stall whenever I would come to a stop at a stop sign or a light. At first it seemed to only happen when it was wet; but it would also happen in all types of weather. A fellow gear head told me it sounds like not enough air is getting to the intake. Years ago I changed the stock air filter to a aftermarket Ram style air filter; makes the 6 cylinder sound tough when I get on it. It turned out that the throttle controlled flap and the sensor on the throttle body would get caked up with carbon and would either stick closed or not sense the air flow. I took off the air filter hose and emptied a can of Throttle Body Cleaner into it, (follow the directions on the can), and it has worked fine. I do this 2 - 4 times a year. After 8 years and 220k miles all is well.

gbabcock69

I would check the Timing Chain and the guides, It sounds like a similar problem I had with my 1993 model not too long ago.

big_n_beefy

my 97 hardbody 4x4 runs great exept for some times it cuts out. It don't matter if its in, or out, of gear. It don't matter if I am sitting at a stop sign or the cruise set at 70. When it decides to cut out I have to turn it off and let it coast, or sit, for about 10 seconds to get it to run right again. It will idle fine, but if you push the rpm's up to 1300 it will cut out till it gets down to 1000 then idle fine till the rpm's go up again. I can go for days w/out any problems, then it will do it 5 times on my way to work that is only 2.5 miles away. I hope someone has an idea as I have exausted mine.

eockee

Regarding the question of startup rattle - It looks like I'm a few years too late to answer the original poster's question, but maybe someone else will benefit. I'm told that my 97 Nissan Pickup has a hydraulic tensioner for the timing chain and if the oil pressure drops flat while the engine is off, then the tensioner doesn't work the timing chain goes loose, and about three seconds of the startup rattle is a commonly reported experience. In my case, the rattle happens every day, it doesn't require the truck to sit for three days.

A Nissan technician told me that the solution was to use a genuine Nissan Oil Filter when I change the oil since these contain a special valve that maintains a certain amount of oil pressure even after the engine is turned off. My first thought was that requirements for "Genuine Nissan" (most things) are a bunch of hooey, but since I was having service done at the Nissan garage anyway, I added an oil change to my bill and was pleased to discover that the startup rattle problem went away.

Some time later, I did my own oil change. I used an after market filter that claimed to have the proper pressure valve required by Nissan, but the rattle came back. So my advice is - try a Genuine Nissan Oil Filter. And if it solves the problem, don't mess with anything else. It gives me indegestion every time I hear that rattle and wonder if this is the morning when the timing chain will finally be so loose that it will slip a tooth.

eockee

My 97 Nissan Pickup has a problem wherein the speedometer intermittently stops working. I'd appreciate any thoughts on how to diagnose where the fault lies and how best (or least expensively) to correct.

The symptoms are somewhat contradictory. The problem started a few months ago and it first, it would occasionally not work for a minute or two when I first started driving, and then it would start working. Then the problem became more frequent (as in, almost every day instead of just once every week or two) and then the problem started to occur not just when I first started out, but also if I'd stopped for a few minutes or more. The contradictory part: if I tap the dashboard a half dozen times, it starts working (suggests to me a problem in the speedometer itself or in the dashboard wiring) but at one point, it set a code and turned on the MIL (check engine light) which suggests to me a problem in the speed sensor instead of the dashboard wiring - I'm told there's a speed sensor in the transfer case but I haven't investigated.

Anyone have experience with this? How do I test to figure it out? What do I look for? I took out the instrument cluster, and followed someones advice that I should clean the contacts with an eraser from a #2 pencil. I wasn't impressed that this was effective, but was reluctant to try sandpaper on those contacts on the back of the instrument cluster because they're pretty flimsy. Is there a better way to clean those contacts? Any kind of measurements I can take with a multimeter to diagnose this?

ryancey

I had the 4 cyl engine. One of my adjustable valve lifter where the oil pressure adjusts the lifter cracked and blew out. The engine ran fine but just loud clicking. I had to take the valve cover off, only a few bolts, and while the engine was running i pushed on all the lifters until i found the one that was making the noise. I then ordered a new rocker arm that had the bad adjustable part. it was only $40 and it took about 1/2 hr to replace. It was very simple. Anyone can change it out.

ryancey

My 94 speedometer doesnt work either. It worked until about an year adn a half ago and then one day it pegged at 100 and then didnt work next time i started up my truck. I know there is some sort of a problem with the sensor, but i havnt found out what part to replace yet. Any help would be nice

dadu

Can someone tell me where I can find a drawing on line showing the tensioner pully for a 1990 Nissan King Cab with a V6? I am re-doing someone elses mess up and I think they left part of it off causing the spring to come off.
:sick:

oneeyedparrot

I had similar problem with my 97 HB several years ago. It would randomly run rough, sputtering, but only above 1300-1500 rpm, kinda like I had water in the distributor. Seemed to be sensitive to accelerating (not when I reved the engine though). The check engine light came on, and gave a code that the MAF sensor was bad. I rembered reading somewhere that for electronic ignition the computer had a safe mode that, should a sensor fail, it would just run with default settings up to about 1300 rpm. So, I removed the MAF sensor, cut the cover off, and found one of the tiny bond wires to the circuit board inside had broken, making intermittant contact. I soldered the wire back, problem has gone forever! Hope this helps.

oneeyedparrot

dadu, try this link...don't think I would buy parts from here, but free diagram!

http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CP&Pr- oduct_Code=D21-TCKIT

zoom23

My son in law has a Titan that he put a flowmaster 40 series on it runs great but a little loud in my book. I have a 2005 Frontier and just put A Gibson cat-back that fit perfectly in the original location, noise levels are great only 2to4 decibles louder in the cab but the performance is unbelievable! I even get 2mpg better if I keep my foot out of the throttle. This is a good time to shop also because the manufacturers are needing to clear out this years products. I recommend the Gibson exhaust that is the quietest of all brand in the cab, there are several places to start your search, and go wit one that guarentees their price to be the lowest for a year and has free shipping. Just punch in perfomance exhaust for Nissan Titan and enjoy the fact that you are in control of who wins your bucks. Enjoy your awsome truck :shades:

hoss51

my 91 nissan king cab 3.0L V6 drops #6 cylinder at 3000rmp. sometimes right off idle as well. using a spark plug tester and revving up the motor you can see the spark go from strong to virtually disapear. i have changed the cap and rotor as well as the plugs and wires and have used multiple sparks plugs in #6 cylinder. i have put the original plug and wire on a different cylinder and the problem didnt travel with them, it remains on #6 only. i have 40lbs of fuel line pressure and 150lbs of compression. im sure the problem started after changing the fuel sending unit. also i have changed the fuel filter twice since the problem started. i am baffled as to why this problem is only in #6 and not any other cylinder. if you can help me solve this i will consider you the god of nissans!!!! please help!

boing757

Can anyone tell me where the voltage regulator is located on my 87 P/U,it's not charging under load,but is at idle,it's a new Alt.Any other info will be appreciated

zanegrey

the voltage rerulator is built in to these altenaors.
not cherging under load then tighten the belt.
or a new belt is needed.

also check bearing and pulley tightness on alt...

todd27

I have a 97Nissan pickup= idling slightly rough after startup. It hasn't been a constant & basically goes away after running around town, but it's creeping up more now.
Scenario: Start up truck & let engine warm a few minutes to 10min.. then run across the street to coffe shop(maybe let it warm a bit listening to radio). Come back out-(always starts up fine) start driving out of the parking lot and it starts running rough, and shudders at the stoplight like it's going to die(just for a few minutes)-I keep it reved to keep it going, after a minute down the street it goes away. I live in Wash. state,..not thaT cold yet- 40's/30's
Did oil change & breather filter inside air cleaner housing(cleaner is good), couldn't find my pvc valve to change(internal?) Replaced battery to Diehard.

Is this a cold start valve, or EGR, or sensor type problem? it feels air more related,....but could it possibly be electrical?....

Alternator of sensor?

redrider3

Ok I'm not a nissan mechanic but I have a pretty good idea what's bad. I have a 91' single cab 4X4 with 5 speed man. tranny,or should I say 1 speed. Down shifted from 3rd to 2nd pretty hard, now all I have is 4th gear! no grinding or creepy sounds,just 4th. What Have I Done???? The tranny isn't more than 1 1/2 yrs old, not a lot of abusive miles. Forkin' out 1,500 cash isn't what I'm lookin' to do. :mad:

redrider3

I am new to this posting stuff so I'm gonna try it again...
I turned my 5 speed into a 1 speed real quick. Downshifted from 3rd to 2nd pretty quick, now all I have is 4th. Previous owner replaced complete tranny little over 1 year ago,not a lot of hard miles on it. love the truck,has a little over268k on it,looks and performs well,but the thought of spending 1,500+ really isn't what I want to do,would rather put that $$ into my 02' VTX 1800c. Good chance I will be selling the truck if it is in need of a new tranny. Any expierence or suggestions about the tranny? Doesn't make any wierd noises or anything just have 4th gear. :confuse:

tuoraf

I was planning on the purchase of a new Frontier KC Nismo/LE V6. It is not listed on the fuel door, but the owners manual recommends the use of premium unleaded gas with an octane rating of at least 91 AKI number (Research octane number 91). What fuel are you guys using?