I cannot get the front headlights on the pick upo to work. They suddenly went out a few days ago and now do not work. No headlights or parking lights. I get dash lights and the "lights on" alarm when the switch is in the on position. I have called around and nobody knows where the headlamp relay is, in case that is the problem. I also cannot find a fusable link for the circut anywhere. I hat to have to buy a 65 doller switch to see if that is the problem if I can avoid it.
Could you be a little more specific? I have had a mechanic friend look at my truck and have talked to the parts guy at a nissan dealer and have had no luck finding the unit. It simply is either not there or invisible. Do you mean inside the fender or bolted to the side of the fender behind the battery? Also I do have a relay box with clutch/inhibitor relay written on it. I replaced this inhibitor and the problem persisted. Could it be that the ignition in the steering column needs to be replaced? My next step is to pay a nissan mechanic $80 to look at it and I just don't trust them. Any ideas?
I have a 4 cyl. 1997 Nissan 4x4 and sometimes when I start it, it makes a nasty noise for about 2-3 seconds almost like there is no oil in the engine. I've changed to WIX oil filters and that helps a little bit, but it still does it sometimes. What do I need to get replaced?. Also at high speeds when my a/c compressor goes on or off the belt squeaks, any home remedies?
I had the same problem, and had to replace the relay in my '94 v6 XE 4x4. It's called the clutch interlock relay, or as the guy at the dealership called it the "double blue" relay. It's the big one that looks like two relays connected together over on the left hand side when you open the hood. I didn't replace it immediately, but just ran a jumper across the relay contacts to take it out of the circuit. This worked fine until I made it by the dealership to get the relay.
I have a '94 XE 4x4 and have already replaced this relay once before. When you open the hood it's on the left hand side up towards the firewall. There are a couple of relays mounted there next to each other. My Haynes manual called the double relay the clutch interlock relay=clutch/inhibitor relay, but when I went to the dealer to ask for a replacement the guy just called it the "double blue" relay. The replacement cost was like $5 or $6.
Do you have high beams?if not will they work when you pull back on the switch for flashing?There is seperate fuses for left & right headlamps in the engine compartment on the pass side.
Hi guys! I have the 95 KK 4X4 V6 Auto, and when the transmission shifts from 1st gear into 2nd gear, it shifts really hard. :sick: It literally snaps my head back sometimes. All other gears shift normally. Anyone else had this and what was repaired and how much did it cost? Thanks.
I have a 97 XE Nissan also. My truck does the exact same thing. I'm asking around to see if I should get it fixed. So far, no one really knows what to do about it and one guy said that I could replace the oil pump, but he's still not sure if that would fix it. There is what they call an "oil pick up" that brings the oil from the bottom of the engine to the top, and that has a screen on it, that might need to be cleaned. If you get a breakdown of the engine you'll see what I'm ralking about, but that probably will cost $500 in labor to get to it. I know for a fact that if you use WIX oil filters that seems to help a lot.
i have a 95 nissan pu.the problem is that the pass side lower control arm (compression rod) has worn out the bushing that mounts in the box on the frame.and now it squeaks and probably screwed up my alighnment.i hope someone understands what i am talking about.thanks in advance!
My Nissan service manager told me today that my extended cab Nissan truck needs a new EGR and sensor at a cost of $563. installed. The truck has 66K miles on it with no previous problems. While working on the engine, they would replace the INFAMOUS pcv valve at no cost.
This price seems rather high to me. What do you guys think?
(By the way, I have taken my Nissan truck to 4 different Nissan dealers wanting to get the pcv valve exchanged. One dealer said my model truck does not have a pcv valve. Another said it did but they couldn't change it. The 3rd dealer said they didn't think it had one (computer printouts and manual info. notwithstanding), and the 4th dealer said the truck has one but the engine must be cold to change it.)
Hi guys! I have the 95 KK 4X4 V6 Auto, and when the transmission shifts from 1st gear into 2nd gear, it shifts really hard. It literally snaps my head back sometimes. All other gears shift normally. Anyone else had this and what was repaired and how much did it cost? Thanks.
Yes, your truck does have a PCV. It's located above the oil filter, under the intake manifold(#1 cylinder). Have to see and even harder to replace. I went in through the wheel well to get to it. Hope that helps. S
crimsonking, Thanks tremendously for your good information. You wouldn't believe the nonsense I have had to listen to in regard to pcv valve existance and location.
Front brakes on my '95 are getting very hot, must be dragging a little. Seems to be both sides but maybe worse on Rt. HOT means after 6 miles to work today at 40-60MPH I had "hot brake smell" and some smoke off the Rt. front brake. This truck looks great but is a NH rust bucket underneath, I haven't popped a wheel yet to see what's there.
Any chronic experience with stuck brakes on these?
I need help replacing ball joints (lower). How do you get them out. Took truck for inspection and was told I needed rear shocks and front ball joints. Shocks no problem but having problems with ball joints. Any help? It is a 91 4x4 King Cab. Has 180,000 miles and has major rust problem, but for now it is still running.
Hey guys, I'm trying to install a tacho in my 91 nissan. I need to know if possible how to hook it up (instructions in latin), and can someone tell me how to find the ground cable on my ignition coil? It's not one with just two regular posts.
I have a 1986 pickup, which is a King cab, 4x4. You got further than I have if you are into the timing chain cover. I am almost there but because of the off-set oil pan due to the 4x4 differential sitting right under the pan, I can't figure out how to get the remaining 4 or 5 pan bolts off; they are hidden and seemingly unapproachable. The differential is off but does anyone know how to access those remaining bolts? The pan must come off before the front cover can be removed to get to the chain, etc. Also the pan gasket leaks and I am wanting to change that too. I am stumped at a critical point. I have replaced chains and belts before but not on a 4x4. It has not been fun.
I have a 1986 pickup, which is a King cab, 4x4. Haynes book says to remove the front differential to get the pan off, which is required to take off the chain cover. Differential is off, but the pan is off-set in order to have the differential under it. I have all the pan bolts off except the ones under the off-set ledge part of the pan, which covers the bolt-heads. The book just says to remove the pan. No other clues provided suggesting how to access those bolt-headss. Any one out there who knows the trick?
I just purchased a 1985 720 King Cab 4 cyl 5 speed trans, the previous owner had done some mods to it in order to get more power out of it such as Excel coils, weber carb conversion, high output wires. When i purchased the truck it was running rough came to find out he had two exhaust wires crossed. That made it run alot better but still having some hesitation on take off and when shifting (figure that the Weber needing a tune). My major problem is though when I shut it off the engine continues to turn for a about a minute or two, shaking alot, then you hear a loud hissing sound like air or exhaust being expelled. I found the distributor is missing a bolt so I'm sure the timing is not on could this be the cause to this problem? Any help is greatly appreciated!!!!! :confuse:
There is a slipring in the steering column that let's the electrical connections go to steering wheel without wires getting wrapped around while you turn the wheel. It went bad in my truck also, I bypassed the horn, but haven't yet bothered to replace the whole ring.
For the last year my truck has been having trouble shifting out of first and into second when it is cold. If I let it warm up, it shifts relatively fine (sometimes it still hesitates or jerks before shifting). My boss had a similar problem on his chevy van and just needed to replace a governor gear. Is there a similar fix for my problem? Thanks
My truck has about 100K miles. Only mods are 4" lift and 32/11.5R tires on 15" wheels. On and off for the past 6 months, when I slow down to a stop (regardless of whether the clutch is in or out, or the brake pedal is being pushed or not, and regardless of whether I am coasting or pushing the gas pedal) there is a squealing sound that seems to come from the front/center of the truck. This sound volume decreases as I slow down, and always stops when I am at a full stop. When I start up again the squealing starts up, but not always. And if it does start up, it can go away all by itself in a few blocks. This sound occurs most often after I have driven on the highway for 20 min or more, or it is really hot outside. I have had the brakes checked by 2 different places, and they see nothing wrong. Because the sound always goes away when I am stopped and idling, it has nothing to do with the engine or belts. My guess would be something to do with wheels or bearings, or some aspect of the drivetrain that stops turning when the truck is stopped. I have changed both front and rear differential fluids, the tranny fluid, the transfer case fluid, the clutch fluid, and brake fluid. No luck. Any help would be appreciated. Otherwise it is a great truck.
Those peski ball joints can be a pain but with a little patience and some muscle they will come out: 1) Jack up your truck remove the front wheels 2) Place a jack or stand under the lower control arm to take the weight off the assembly 3) Loosen but DO NOT remove the upper ball joint nut 4) Using a ball joint seperator tool (looks like a small real thick C clamp) unpress the ball joint from the spindle you can rent this tool from some autoparts stores or purchase one costs about 15 to 30 bucks or make one from a long bolt, nut, washer and deep socket! Screw the nut onto the bolt slide the washer onto the bolt AFTER the nut, slide the threaded part of the bolt into the deep socket keeping the washer between the nut and the bolt so the bolt and nut dont fall into the socket now position and adjust your fabed tool between the upper and lower ball joint nuts. The head of the bolt on your tool should be against the loosened upper ball joint nut and the socket end of the tool should rest on the lower ball joint nut. 5) start loosening the nut on your tool so it pushes down on the socket and pushes the bolt up against the upper ball joint nut the upper ball joint will now pop out of the spindle 6) Reverse your tool (place it upside down) and follow the same steps for the lower one once they are both out of the spindle take the nuts off them 7) Use a wire or something of the sort and tie the spindle assembly off to the side BECAREFUL not to bend the brake lines too much 8) unbolt the 3 or 4 nuts on the joints, that hold the ball joints onto the control arms 9) Ball joints should be out now!!!!!
I had the same problem on my 1990 Pathfinder and on my 1987 Hardbody!!! I too noticed that my noise got louder or happened more often when i drove on a hot day then when i drove on a cold morning. There's a couple things that fixed my squealing. On the 4x4 pathfinder all i had to do was grease all the fittings, change the inner and outter wheel bearings, and the rubber donuts on the top and bottom of the rear coil springs. On the 2x2 Hardbody i again greased all the fittings changed inner and outter wheel bearings but this time i had to swap out the rear leafs for new ones I had lowered the truck and that caused my old rusty leafs to develop hairline cracks that caused a squeaking noise in the back 24-7 it got louder on hot days cause metal expands and it was causing metal to metal rubbing within those cracks. On both trucks i when i greased and changed the bearings the squeeling noise i had in the front stopped. Remember metal expands when its hot and lubrication thins out with heat and friction. On hot days where there wasn't enough grease and lube there was metal to metal contact especially on the bearings rubbing against the worn races. This tends to happen most often on vehicles that have suspension mods due to the added strain and the change of the suspension angles. good luck pal hope that helps
I'm having the same problem with my 95 pickup. There doesn't seem to be any power to the regular headlights but I can get the high beams to work on the right side. Fuses are fine. Was wondering if you had any luck with yours.
I have a 92 Hardbody and it was making a similar noise on startup. I had the water pump replaced and the service tech said that was the problem. The seep hole on the water pump leaks directly on the belts so when started up the belts sqeaked and sqawked like I was killing a cat. After the engine would warm up and noise would stop yet the AC still would sqeal as I was running down the road. I never had any overheating problems to tell me the water pump was going out just some drops of water on the pavement. Hope this helps.
If you notice that it takes ALOT of gas to get your vehicle, the Nissan King Cab 2WD from 1985 with a Z24 engine, the problem is the clutch. This causes massive loss of fuel economy and major wear on head gaskets and engine in general, due to the excessive amounts of RPM's needed to get the vehicle to "creep" forward from a dead stop. Now then, MY dilemma is i don't know how to adjust a clutch for this particular vehicle. Anyone with useful information AT ALL would be of much help. :confuse:
Unfortunatley for Nissan and Toyota, not many people make after-market items for their vehicles . . . However i would try Advance Auto Parts' website or maybe Google it?
I need help...I have installed a new timing chain guide, all went well and now I am putting the oil pump and distributor back in. I find TDC on the first piston put the oil pump in with the oil hole and the punch mark in line, I put the distributor in making sure it is pointing to the number one firing point. When I start the engine I get piston slap and cannot adjust the timing to the timing marks. All this is done according to the HAYNES manual. What is going wrong?? I have tried this about 7 times and I get the same sad results. Can anyone help with this? PS. the old guide disappeared and is now small bits of plastic coming out in very frequent oil changes. The replacement guide is now a plastic and metal combination that looks different than the original but bolts in just fine.
Hey low720, thanks for the tips! I suspected front bearings too. Any idea how much I should have to pay at a dealer or brake shop to have the inner and outer front bearings repacked with grease?
I have had a few sleepless nights with wondering what I am doing wrong. :sick: Now I see that the timing chain (shinny link) is not on the sprocket mark. This would indicate to me that the chain has jumped a few cogs, when I pulled my truck under cover to do the timing chain guide it was running fine with the noise of a slapping chain of course, but other than that it was fine. Can the truck run fine if the chain has jumped?????
I am having a problem with my 1993 Nissan Pickup (4 cylinder). The truck starts and runs for several days, and then like a bolt out of the blue, it burns a fuse and refuses to start. We've rebuilt the wiring harness and replaced the fuel pump, and the only thing we can think of that's left to do is change to a new "sending unit". Did you find one for your truck? Did you find out if a sending unit from other models will work? Where did you find your sending unit? And what was the price? If you can reply, I would greatly appreciate it.
I replaced the transfer case on my 84 nissan pick up and I'm trying to put the shift-lever back on with the stud but its not fitting right. Any tips? thanks
I have a 1990 Kingcab and have just gone through the same thing. I'm sure by now you have the bolts out...need a skinny hand to help out..it's very tight in there. The Haynes book wants you to drop and remove everything from here to there. I got mine off without removing any of the 4x4 stuff. I had the drivers side chain guide break off and the engine ate it (plastic). The replacement is both metal and plastic totaly different but bolts in nice. That all went well but now I can't set the timing. Oil pump and distributor are going in as per the book and TDC but I can't set the timing. How did you make out with it??
I'm changing my water pump on my 87 V6. I'm down to the last nut that's on the end of the drive shaft, behind the belt pullys. How do I keep the motor from turning while I remove the nut? And does the nut loosen counter clockwise? BTW it's an automatic..
I have 1987 nissan king cab with a z24 (50,000 miles). It sometimes has trouble returning to a low idle after starting. It likes to stay at about 1500 rpm's and when it returns to the idle it fluctuates up or down about 100 rpms. It will also hesitates when I excelerate hard at about 3500 rpms. It could be a lot worse and at this point it is more agravating than it is a problem but I am afraid it will only get worse. I have recently put new plugs, plug wires, fuel filter, air filter, and distributor cap. The problem also seems to be worse when the gas tank get closer to empty (less than 1/4 tank. This leads me to believe it has something to do with the fuel pump. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
1994 Nissan PU XE. The battery drains if the truck sits without running for more than two days. With the battery connected and no key in the ignition, I used a voltmeter to check all the fuses to ensure none of the circuits inside the cab are using juice. With the negative battery terminal disconnected, I did the following: There are two clipped on wires that connect to the positive terminal of the battery. When I connect one (the smaller of the two) and run my voltmeter across the disconnected negative lead and the negative post (completing the circuit) I get a 5V reading. When I connect the other snap-on (green and black wires) connector to the positive terminal, I get a full 12V reading. Thus one or both of these two are draining the battery. Does anyone know what these wires are for? Again, they connect directly to the positive terminal of the battery.
Well folks I want to thank you all for your helpful tips and comments. As it turns out I got the truck timing set and it is now purring like an old kitten. If someone else runs into this problem..don't go by the Haynes book for the KA24E 4 cylinder. When the book talks about the oil pump and the distributor being installed at zero degrees TDC....it's "BUNK" set it to 10 degrees BTDC and then install the oil pump and the distributor. Again thanks for all your input.
I have a 94 hardbody with a 4 banger and a straight drive. also have a 84 v6 trans with a transfer case and would like to swap the v6 for the 4 banger will the v6 trans bolt to the 4 banger and if not is there a adapter kit i could buy to make this happen. thanks
hello, i have a 87 nissan truck with the v6 engine, and the front turn signals will not work, all the lights work...so its not the bulb, but they will not flash?? Anyone know?? Help please!!
I have an 87 with a Z24 as well (175,000 miles) that has almost the same problem. At first start up it shoots to about 2000rpm then settles down to its fluctuating idle at about 1200 which is still way high. I have not noticed any real hesitation, but I do not usually accelerate very hard. I also have not noticed the 1/4 tank thing. I was originally thinking this was a timing problem but I have not really had much time lately to put a light on it and see. If you come up with a solution I sure would like to hear it becuase this is really annoying and wasting gas, too! Thanks.
I have been trying to get my D21 Z24i pickup to pass California smog. It was running high on everything they test for. These are the things I replaced: Catalytic converter, cap/rotor, plugs, some vacuum valves at the intake manifold that had cracked plastic, some vacuum lines, and the filters. It was running okay, just not passing smog.
I then replaced the spark plug cables and the pcv-valve (a pox on Nissan for placing the pcv valve where it is). Now, the truck will not start. The first time I try to start it if it has been sitting a bit and the engine is cool, it may shudder and shake, sounding like it is missing, no smoke from exhaust, it will rev for a bit over 2000 rpm then die off. Then,. when I turn the key again, it will rev up over 4000 rpm then drop immediately down to nothing and stall. When I try again, all I get is the starter motor spinning and the engine shaking the truck like it is going to fall apart.
I smell some fuel at this point. Not much, just what you would normally smell when you try to start the engine and it doesn't ignite.
I have checked all the electrical connectors that lead to the throttle body, but they all seem clean and tight.
I am at a standstill here. Anyone have any ideas? Some guy on another message board suggested I knocked the connector for the mass airflow sensor when I changed the PCV valve, but I do not think this year model even has one of those.
I previously posted regarding problems with smogging my truck and additional starting problems.
Nobody seems to respond here.
I cannot get the engine to start. If I pump the gas pedal, the engine will shudder and keep trying to stay ignited, but will die with too much gas or not enough. I just tried replacing the plugwires to no result.
Just bring it too the DEALER ALREADY,SPEND THE MONEY IF YOU LIKE THE TRUCK OR JUST SELL IT ON EBAY!
Their you go and that was painless now,The Nissan Tec's are good so why not ask them. I've had a Hardbody 89,Se V6,93,and now the Frontier witch is the best truck I ever bought!
Does anyone know what the stock front bumper height is from ground, because i'm going to purchase a lift kit, but it seems the front was slammed down by the previous owner. Maybe messed with the torsion bar or something. Thanks
Had my truck smog checked - codes came up as after cat oxy sensor and swirl Solenoid - replaced these - almost $200 - it failed again. I took it to Nissan they weren't sure. They were very friendly and informative, but they said that 97's don't diagnose well and all they could do is start replacing suspect parts each ranging from $160 - $500 with no guarantee that will shut off my check engine light and allow it to pass smog might have to replace other systems! This on a truck that has been very well taken care of runs perfectly, I mean starts instantly, runs smoothly and has only 77,000 miles. 1) Any suggestions on how to get it to pass w/o trading my savings for a new emissions system. 2) If I sell it out side of a smog inspection area can the service engine light be turned off without correcting problem?
Comments
This price seems rather high to me. What do you guys think?
(By the way, I have taken my Nissan truck to 4 different Nissan dealers wanting to get the pcv valve exchanged. One dealer said my model truck does not have a pcv valve. Another said it did but they couldn't change it. The 3rd dealer said they didn't think it had one (computer printouts and manual info. notwithstanding), and the 4th dealer said the truck has one but the engine must be cold to change it.)
S
Very appreciative!
Front brakes on my '95 are getting very hot, must be dragging a little. Seems to be both sides but maybe worse on Rt. HOT means after 6 miles to work today at 40-60MPH I had "hot brake smell" and some smoke off the Rt. front brake. This truck looks great but is a NH rust bucket underneath, I haven't popped a wheel yet to see what's there.
Any chronic experience with stuck brakes on these?
Thanks
1) Jack up your truck remove the front wheels
2) Place a jack or stand under the lower control arm to take the weight off the assembly
3) Loosen but DO NOT remove the upper ball joint nut
4) Using a ball joint seperator tool (looks like a small real thick C clamp) unpress the ball joint from the spindle you can rent this tool from some autoparts stores or purchase one costs about 15 to 30 bucks or make one from a long bolt, nut, washer and deep socket! Screw the nut onto the bolt slide the washer onto the bolt AFTER the nut, slide the threaded part of the bolt into the deep socket keeping the washer between the nut and the bolt so the bolt and nut dont fall into the socket now position and adjust your fabed tool between the upper and lower ball joint nuts. The head of the bolt on your tool should be against the loosened upper ball joint nut and the socket end of the tool should rest on the lower ball joint nut.
5) start loosening the nut on your tool so it pushes down on the socket and pushes the bolt up against the upper ball joint nut the upper ball joint will now pop out of the spindle
6) Reverse your tool (place it upside down) and follow the same steps for the lower one once they are both out of the spindle take the nuts off them
7) Use a wire or something of the sort and tie the spindle assembly off to the side BECAREFUL not to bend the brake lines too much
8) unbolt the 3 or 4 nuts on the joints, that hold the ball joints onto the control arms
9) Ball joints should be out now!!!!!
On the 2x2 Hardbody i again greased all the fittings changed inner and outter wheel bearings but this time i had to swap out the rear leafs for new ones I had lowered the truck and that caused my old rusty leafs to develop hairline cracks that caused a squeaking noise in the back 24-7 it got louder on hot days cause metal expands and it was causing metal to metal rubbing within those cracks.
On both trucks i when i greased and changed the bearings the squeeling noise i had in the front stopped. Remember metal expands when its hot and lubrication thins out with heat and friction. On hot days where there wasn't enough grease and lube there was metal to metal contact especially on the bearings rubbing against the worn races. This tends to happen most often on vehicles that have suspension mods due to the added strain and the change of the suspension angles. good luck pal hope that helps
:shades:
PS. the old guide disappeared and is now small bits of plastic coming out in very frequent oil changes. The replacement guide is now a plastic and metal combination that looks different than the original but bolts in just fine.
I have had a few sleepless nights with wondering what I am doing wrong. :sick: Now I see that the timing chain (shinny link) is not on the sprocket mark.
I then replaced the spark plug cables and the pcv-valve (a pox on Nissan for placing the pcv valve where it is). Now, the truck will not start. The first time I try to start it if it has been sitting a bit and the engine is cool, it may shudder and shake, sounding like it is missing, no smoke from exhaust, it will rev for a bit over 2000 rpm then die off. Then,. when I turn the key again, it will rev up over 4000 rpm then drop immediately down to nothing and stall. When I try again, all I get is the starter motor spinning and the engine shaking the truck like it is going to fall apart.
I smell some fuel at this point. Not much, just what you would normally smell when you try to start the engine and it doesn't ignite.
I have checked all the electrical connectors that lead to the throttle body, but they all seem clean and tight.
I am at a standstill here. Anyone have any ideas? Some guy on another message board suggested I knocked the connector for the mass airflow sensor when I changed the PCV valve, but I do not think this year model even has one of those.
Nobody seems to respond here.
I cannot get the engine to start. If I pump the gas pedal, the engine will shudder and keep trying to stay ignited, but will die with too much gas or not enough. I just tried replacing the plugwires to no result.
I really need some pointers here.
Their you go and that was painless now,The Nissan Tec's are good so why not ask them.
I've had a Hardbody 89,Se V6,93,and now the Frontier witch is the best truck I ever bought!