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Comments
This price seems rather high to me. What do you guys think?
(By the way, I have taken my Nissan truck to 4 different Nissan dealers wanting to get the pcv valve exchanged. One dealer said my model truck does not have a pcv valve. Another said it did but they couldn't change it. The 3rd dealer said they didn't think it had one (computer printouts and manual info. notwithstanding), and the 4th dealer said the truck has one but the engine must be cold to change it.)
S
Very appreciative!
Front brakes on my '95 are getting very hot, must be dragging a little. Seems to be both sides but maybe worse on Rt. HOT means after 6 miles to work today at 40-60MPH I had "hot brake smell" and some smoke off the Rt. front brake. This truck looks great but is a NH rust bucket underneath, I haven't popped a wheel yet to see what's there.
Any chronic experience with stuck brakes on these?
Thanks
1) Jack up your truck remove the front wheels
2) Place a jack or stand under the lower control arm to take the weight off the assembly
3) Loosen but DO NOT remove the upper ball joint nut
4) Using a ball joint seperator tool (looks like a small real thick C clamp) unpress the ball joint from the spindle you can rent this tool from some autoparts stores or purchase one costs about 15 to 30 bucks or make one from a long bolt, nut, washer and deep socket! Screw the nut onto the bolt slide the washer onto the bolt AFTER the nut, slide the threaded part of the bolt into the deep socket keeping the washer between the nut and the bolt so the bolt and nut dont fall into the socket now position and adjust your fabed tool between the upper and lower ball joint nuts. The head of the bolt on your tool should be against the loosened upper ball joint nut and the socket end of the tool should rest on the lower ball joint nut.
5) start loosening the nut on your tool so it pushes down on the socket and pushes the bolt up against the upper ball joint nut the upper ball joint will now pop out of the spindle
6) Reverse your tool (place it upside down) and follow the same steps for the lower one once they are both out of the spindle take the nuts off them
7) Use a wire or something of the sort and tie the spindle assembly off to the side BECAREFUL not to bend the brake lines too much
8) unbolt the 3 or 4 nuts on the joints, that hold the ball joints onto the control arms
9) Ball joints should be out now!!!!!
On the 2x2 Hardbody i again greased all the fittings changed inner and outter wheel bearings but this time i had to swap out the rear leafs for new ones I had lowered the truck and that caused my old rusty leafs to develop hairline cracks that caused a squeaking noise in the back 24-7 it got louder on hot days cause metal expands and it was causing metal to metal rubbing within those cracks.
On both trucks i when i greased and changed the bearings the squeeling noise i had in the front stopped. Remember metal expands when its hot and lubrication thins out with heat and friction. On hot days where there wasn't enough grease and lube there was metal to metal contact especially on the bearings rubbing against the worn races. This tends to happen most often on vehicles that have suspension mods due to the added strain and the change of the suspension angles. good luck pal hope that helps
:shades:
PS. the old guide disappeared and is now small bits of plastic coming out in very frequent oil changes. The replacement guide is now a plastic and metal combination that looks different than the original but bolts in just fine.
I have had a few sleepless nights with wondering what I am doing wrong. :sick: Now I see that the timing chain (shinny link) is not on the sprocket mark.
I then replaced the spark plug cables and the pcv-valve (a pox on Nissan for placing the pcv valve where it is). Now, the truck will not start. The first time I try to start it if it has been sitting a bit and the engine is cool, it may shudder and shake, sounding like it is missing, no smoke from exhaust, it will rev for a bit over 2000 rpm then die off. Then,. when I turn the key again, it will rev up over 4000 rpm then drop immediately down to nothing and stall. When I try again, all I get is the starter motor spinning and the engine shaking the truck like it is going to fall apart.
I smell some fuel at this point. Not much, just what you would normally smell when you try to start the engine and it doesn't ignite.
I have checked all the electrical connectors that lead to the throttle body, but they all seem clean and tight.
I am at a standstill here. Anyone have any ideas? Some guy on another message board suggested I knocked the connector for the mass airflow sensor when I changed the PCV valve, but I do not think this year model even has one of those.
Nobody seems to respond here.
I cannot get the engine to start. If I pump the gas pedal, the engine will shudder and keep trying to stay ignited, but will die with too much gas or not enough. I just tried replacing the plugwires to no result.
I really need some pointers here.
Their you go and that was painless now,The Nissan Tec's are good so why not ask them.
I've had a Hardbody 89,Se V6,93,and now the Frontier witch is the best truck I ever bought!